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Keeps Coming Unplugged From Charger

Hey guys, I'm dropping by to ask a quick question for a buddy of mine.
I finally convinced him to switch from the iPhone to Android (Captivate obviously) and he said that he absolutely loved it! However he sent me a text today saying that he had to take the phone back because it kept coming unplugged too easily. He needs to use the phone a lot which pretty much means that he also needs to use it while charging. But because it keeps coming unplugged, it is almost impossible to do so.
Has anyone else experienced similiar issues? Note that I haven't had any hands on experience with the device so I'm just looking for some feedback here to pass on to him.
Thanks guys!

Mine fits it with a death grip. At first I had the same issue as you listed with the cable falling out. It turns out you really need to slam the USB cover open with the force of 10,000 dieing suns to fully open the port. Give it a try should be fine.

DanteDrac said:
Mine fits it with a death grip. At first I had the same issue as you listed with the cable falling out. It turns out you really need to slam the USB cover open with the force of 10,000 dieing suns to fully open the port. Give it a try should be fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Perhaps I misunderstand what you said, but you said that you experienced the problem with the cable falling out, but what does that have to do with the usb cover? I looked it up on YouTube and I understand that the cover slides open to access the usb port but how does that hold the cable in place? Does your cable still fall out and if not then what did you do to resolve it?
Thanks for such a prompt response by the way.
I sent him the link to this thread and I'm certain that he'll stop by and read your comments.

You need to slide the usb cover all the way (until it snaps into place) over for the connector to fully attach itself.

correct, if it doesn't click , the plug won't fit securely and stay put

The cover easily gets stuck at 90% open. If you don't posh hard to push it the last 10%, cords won't stay in very well.

tysj said:
You need to slide the usb cover all the way (until it snaps into place) over for the connector to fully attach itself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
JacenSolo2001 said:
correct, if it doesn't click , the plug won't fit securely and stay put
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
He sent me a text
Just read the forum and the response... I tried everythig... USB cover couldn't open futher .. Even inspected the pin design on the male and female connectors with a magnifying glass .. Kept coming out .. Even on the second phone.. I wanted so bad for the phone to work .. It fit my need 200% .. .. just charger issue let me down
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

You need to slide the cover to you hear it snap. Simple.

Hah alright let me break out my DSLR to take a picture that you buddy can match up to how open my phone port currently is.
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Also only the micro USB cable that comes with the phone fits nicely, the other cables I have tried are iffy at best.

DanteDrac said:
Hah alright let me break out my DSLR to take a picture that you buddy can match up to how open my phone port currently is.
Also only the micro USB cable that comes with the phone fits nicely, the other cables I have tried are iffy at best.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Alright. I will pass this along and see if I get get his ass back to the store to get that phone again. Perhaps he just needs to try a little harder (or workout more). Thanks for the input guys. Perhaps I'll have to drive to an AT&T store to check out a model for myself to get an idea of how difficult it is. Curious, is it something that needs to be broken-in or is it supposed to be that damn difficult? Rhetorical question actually.

After I slammed it open just a hand full of times it slides very smoothly but will still actually lock closed.
Though tell him to keep in mind only certain Micro USB cables with fit in well. I had a spare nokia and some other generic one that while it would connect and such it would not actually stay in well.

DanteDrac said:
After I slammed it open just a hand full of times it slides very smoothly but will still actually lock closed.
Though tell him to keep in mind only certain Micro USB cables with fit in well. I had a spare nokia and some other generic one that while it would connect and such it would not actually stay in well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm pretty sure that he was using the one that came with it.

Dante, would you mind posting a pic (yours is so clear... better than my point and shoot could do) of it being in the "open but not all the way" position?
I had the same exact problem and yea, if you don't SNAP the cover open then the charger won't fit in there well.

Is he using the cable that came with the phone? I bought some Belkin Micro USB cables and the rubber around the connector was too big and wouldn't allow the USB cable to connect all the way down into the phone. I had to take the cables back. I'm waiting on some that supposedly fit the captivate that I bought on Ebay.

radi0chik said:
Is he using the cable that came with the phone? I bought some Belkin Micro USB cables and the rubber around the connector was too big and wouldn't allow the USB cable to connect all the way down into the phone. I had to take the cables back. I'm waiting on some that supposedly fit the captivate that I bought on Ebay.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought some $1.09 or whatever Blackberry cables on Amazon... They work just fine.
Granted I have a Prime membership so my shipping was free though.

TexUs said:
Dante, would you mind posting a pic (yours is so clear... better than my point and shoot could do) of it being in the "open but not all the way" position?
I had the same exact problem and yea, if you don't SNAP the cover open then the charger won't fit in there well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No problem. In the bottom picture it was charging but would fall out easy just like the OPs friend was running into.

That's because the slider cover isn't open all the way. The "bump" should be all the way against the edge of the opening. That picture has the rubber bit of the connector hitting the slide cover and no wonder it doesn't connect. Push that slide over all the way and it'll fit.

The problem is that the bevel that makes the Captivate look so cool plus the deeper recess of the female socket prevents square-end connectors from inserting fully.
The Samsung cable has more exposed metal and less plastic than most Micro USB cables, but you can make most any of the Micro USB cables you already own fit perfectly, though they might then be looser in other phones (not likely, most female ends on phones aren't recessed).
You can do what I did. I took a sharp pocket knife (X-acto or box cutter will also work) and trimmed down about 1-2mm of plastic on the "bottom" side of the cable, at a 45 degree angle.
Old cable end looked like this from the side: USB CABLE--|_|-- />phone
Trimmed plastic looks like this from the side: USB CABLE--|_/-- />phone
Fits like a charm, can actually dangle the phone by the cable now, when before it would just about fall out if you looked at it funny.

Croak said:
Fits like a charm, can actually dangle the phone by the cable now, when before it would just about fall out if you looked at it funny.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LOLOL.
but the x-acto idea worked perfectly! thanks

radi0chik said:
That's because the slider cover isn't open all the way. The "bump" should be all the way against the edge of the opening. That picture has the rubber bit of the connector hitting the slide cover and no wonder it doesn't connect. Push that slide over all the way and it'll fit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Read the post fully please. I was posting picture at the request of another member on what it would look like plugged in with the slide not fully open.

How to remove scratch from housing?

Anybody got any idea on how to remove scratches or chipped paint from our desire?
Just chipped mine... I was asleep and bump the table where I usually put my phone and it fell... the next morning the graphite painted part had a chip on the upper front left of the housing.
Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk

hello
i'm thinking of removing the entire paint off the htc device once it's really scratched, i am going to buy a desire and noticed lot of problems with the paint on htc devices, my chrome line from the touch dual chipped of compleatly and i used really fine sandpaper to remove it and it worked fine.
Something better whould be polishing cream from a jewlery, it is very fine and i think it does a god job on screens (might damage touchscreen dough, i don't know if it's allowed on touchscreen) god luck keep me posted,, once mine is scratched, i'm going to need help

Actually, I bought a replacement housing for my desire and planning to replace the front housing when it's completely ruined. I just thought I'd ask first before I go ahead with it, cause I know it would be a pain changing it. I tried searching... and I don't think anybody is brave enough to change their full housing, cause I haven't found a single tutorial on how to disassemble a desire.
Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk

There is a some tutorial.
http://tjworld.net/blog/htc-desire-tear-down
I think there is 50-50 chance that you will need new digitizer screen as well. Its glued to frame and needs to be separated by force (easy to crack)

artukas613 said:
There is a some tutorial.
http://tjworld.net/blog/htc-desire-tear-down
I think there is 50-50 chance that you will need new digitizer screen as well. Its glued to frame and needs to be separated by force (easy to crack)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
this is a for replacing of touch screen. Scratches from plastic you can remove by polishing them to the white paper (simply office paper, ists better ~40g/m2)

artukas613 said:
There is a some tutorial.
http://tjworld.net/blog/htc-desire-tear-down
I think there is 50-50 chance that you will need new digitizer screen as well. Its glued to frame and needs to be separated by force (easy to crack)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the link. I think It's a little bit pain in the... but it looks like It's manageable. I've done some several teardowns of my own before with different devices, so I think it's no problem at all. The teardown tutorial was very insightful. Cheers!
Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk

May I ask what kind of housing you have purchased? Is it OEM? How much was it?
I got scammed on Ebay by dishonest seller. Phone looks terrible and is covered in deep scratches and dents. So I'm investigating just in case PayPal dispute goes wrong. Found several sellers on Ebay claiming that housings sold by them are OEM. But I doubt they are OEM, will fit properly and are of good quality in general.
P.S. volume down button also doesn't work. Any ideas if it's a simple/inexpensive fix or not?

My Desire's back housing has blackspots due to the (lift up) patch/sack I use.
I thought it was inkt but after cleaning it with alcohol etc it seems that the paint has just warn off sadly.
So also looking for a replacement housing now on ebay, tho the cheapest one I can find is 40 euro which is kinda steep for me (as I only need the backside) plus no garantee that these are real OEM as mentioned above.

It might be worth asking htc what they would charge to replace. They were kind of reasonable last time I used them..
Sent from my HTC Desire using XDA App

kaiseris said:
May I ask what kind of housing you have purchased? Is it OEM? How much was it?
I got scammed on Ebay by dishonest seller. Phone looks terrible and is covered in deep scratches and dents. So I'm investigating just in case PayPal dispute goes wrong. Found several sellers on Ebay claiming that housings sold by them are OEM. But I doubt they are OEM, will fit properly and are of good quality in general.
P.S. volume down button also doesn't work. Any ideas if it's a simple/inexpensive fix or not?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry I didn't notice the replies here. Anyways, I got my Desire complete housing replacement and it's good actually, the quality is good and almost looks like the original one... I say almost because the only difference I noticed was the color of the graphite brown in the front. The replacement had a little more darker shade than the original. But, other than that... everything is good, and the fittings is perfect. I haven't gone on with putting the replacement housing cause my Desire is still in good condition and with just some minor scratches. I'll wait until it's full of scratch before I will do the replacement. Cheers! I will attach some picture for comparison later ok. Cheers!

landwomble said:
It might be worth asking htc what they would charge to replace. They were kind of reasonable last time I used them..
Sent from my HTC Desire using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well actually I was asking HTC for a warranty claim but they told me that's it's my fault and it's not covered... so I was pissed at them and made a full complain about their service. I was complaining that, how come that the paint was very easily scratched and got ruined when I just dropped it from the table to the CARPET. I dropped 3 of my previous iPhones several times on the floor without getting any scratch on them.

port187 said:
My Desire's back housing has blackspots due to the (lift up) patch/sack I use.
I thought it was inkt but after cleaning it with alcohol etc it seems that the paint has just warn off sadly.
So also looking for a replacement housing now on ebay, tho the cheapest one I can find is 40 euro which is kinda steep for me (as I only need the backside) plus no garantee that these are real OEM as mentioned above.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually you can buy an original back cover from HTC for 15 pounds or $19 at http://www.htcaccessorystore.com/uk/p_htc_phone.aspx?i=196001.

aalviedo said:
Well actually I was asking HTC for a warranty claim but they told me that's it's my fault and it's not covered... so I was pissed at them and made a full complain about their service. I was complaining that, how come that the paint was very easily scratched and got ruined when I just dropped it from the table to the CARPET. I dropped 3 of my previous iPhones several times on the floor without getting any scratch on them.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're not going to get a scratched casing done under warranty. I had an old HTC WinMo Artemis phone fitted with a new case and new trackball assembly by HTC UK for around 30UKP about 2 years ago...it came back with an official ROM flashed back on it but I was very happy with the service...

landwomble said:
You're not going to get a scratched casing done under warranty. I had an old HTC WinMo Artemis phone fitted with a new case and new trackball assembly by HTC UK for around 30UKP about 2 years ago...it came back with an official ROM flashed back on it but I was very happy with the service...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well I would send my phone for repairs even if I have to pay for the service, just to get fitted with a new housing and get it back the way it was. My problem is the nearest HTC Care Center where I at is in the next City, and that's 6 hours drive away. Thanks anyway for the info.

vidmas said:
this is a for replacing of touch screen. Scratches from plastic you can remove by polishing them to the white paper (simply office paper, ists better ~40g/m2)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
polish the plastic with normal paper?? Does that work?

Here is what you can do with sand paper :
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Legendary Mod!

done wtih sand paper, it's like aliminium isnt it plastic ?

It's aluminium =)

dogre said:
It's aluminium =)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
brushed aluminium. Nice.
I take it you had to dismantle the phone or were you brave enough to sand it down in one piece?

predo said:
brushed aluminium. Nice.
I take it you had to dismantle the phone or were you brave enough to sand it down in one piece?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it look nice, I can try it too one day.
I'm asking also...

[MOD] Palm Pre Touchstone for Droid Charge (first prototype working!!!!!)

Update #2:
Just ordered another touchstone to play with. They're $3 cheaper through verizon if you have a corporate discount I'm gonna see about adding some neodymium magnets to this mix in order to hold the phone while its in a case. This is gonna require drilling into the original magnet (yes... even though there's 4 magnet contact points, theres just one big honking magnet in the touchstone which acts as both magnet and ferrite core for the induction coil. There's some pretty cool engineering going on in this thing) which should be fun. It turns out that the phone will charge through a really thin case (like a gel case or a cheap amazon two piece case) but just not through the stock verizon or thicker case.
Update #1:
Well... it works!!!! There wasn't any strange hitches with the setup. The wireless charge ports on the back do as they're supposed to, and the pre induction pickup works through the droid charge case. The hardest part was finding the right material for the contact points (I'll post an update later with more details about how I did this... ). The only drawbacks to this mod are that your charge is now about 1mm thicker on the back and the induction charging does NOT work through a case (at least the stock verizon case with kickstand). That being said, this mod is completely reversible (unlike every other pre induction charger to X phone mod) so you don't lose your warranty (or even your back cover).
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Parts List:
1x Palm Pre Touchstone Charging Dock, cable and power adapter
1x Palm Pre Touchstone Back Cover
some wire
a soldering iron and solder
patience
Total cost of materials comes out to ~$15
Instructions:
(0) If you don't know your way around a soldering iron or multimeter then I highly suggest you stop here and get some help doing this. The likelihood of damage to your phone is low, but doing something stupid like flipping the polarities or shorting your charge wires WILL probably fry something, either the pre induction charger, your phone, or both. I am most definitely not responsible for any mishaps or stupidity on your part. You have been warned!
1) Separate the induction coil, circult, and metal circles from the back of the Palm Pre. You're gonna have to do some digging with a screwdriver as they're stuck on pretty tight, but once you start peeling it comes off pretty easy.
2) make contacts for the Charge in order to reach the "wireless charging" port on the back. This is the hardest step by far. I ended up using some long 8mil circuit board headers that I bent, cut, and trimmed to size (see pictures for how I did the bending). I'm not sure if I recommend doing it my way as this still isn't an ideal setup, but it works. The important thing to remember is that there's about 1mm or less of clearance between the phone-side contacts and the case, so plan accordingly. Again, look at my pictures for a basic idea of how to make the contacts work, but remember that what I did IS NOT IDEAL.
3) place the contacts carefully on the phone in the correct position. Its easier to line them up on the phone than it is to guesstimate their position on the case.
4) put a small piece of tape on the back of the pre induction charger (see picture for tape location, it should be on the non-sticky side) and lay this CAREFULLY and STICKY SIDE UP onto the position you want on the back of the phone. Make sure you have not moved your contacts when you laid this down. At this point you don't need to press anything down yet, so just gently placing it is fine as long as its in the right position.
5) gently and without moving anything snap the cover back on. Press tightly, then carefully remove the cover. Everything you just placed (especially the contacts) should still be in the same place. If not, you're gonna have to start over at least with the contacts.
6) Press everything down tight, and permanently secure the contacts to the back of the cover (or in my case, the back of the pre induction charger sticky piece). a dab of superglue should be plenty.
7) solder the wires from the induction charger circuit to the contacts. Positive at toward the top of the phone, ground is toward the bottom of the phone. On the induction charger if you flip it like I did then positive is toward the top and ground is toward the bottom as well.
8) TEST TEST TEST. Get a volt meter and make sure you're getting ~5.5v from your contacts when you put the back cover on the touchstone. If not, then you did something wrong. My mistake the first time was not putting all the sticky layers back together in the correct order. It goes black sticky layer, silver sticky layer, then coil. The coil should be sitting directly on the plastic of the cover. The order is important! Also, make sure that your polarities are correct (positive top, gnd bottom).
9) Snap everything back together and put the phone on the touchstone. It should register immediately as wireless charging. Voila la! Wireless charging for $15 on the Droid Charge! Now go get a beer and take a nap
Now I need some sleep... Ask any questions you want and I'll try to be helpful, and maybe tomorrow I'll put up a proper tutorial with pictures on how to do this. Till then... take a gander at the pictures of the final product
Introduction:
Dunno why I haven't seen this on the droid charge forums yet, but I've just bought the parts for a palm pre induction charger grafted onto a droid charge. The way I see it, the charge (and the thunderbolt) are perfect phones for this as verizon has kindly provided us with inductive charger contact points already But wait you ask... why am I going through all this trouble when there's already an induction charger available for the Droid Charge? Simple. I really didn't want to pay over $50 for an induction charger, so $15 for a touchstone + pre backplate seemed like a good compromise. My only concern at this point is the rather limited spacing between the back cover and the battery. I'm gonna have to do some testing to see if I can actually wedge the charger in there (probably not... seeing as how verizon had to make a slightly thicker back for their charger) or if I'm gonna have to do some fancy cutting to the stock back. Stay tuned...

+1, would be interesting to watch tbis
Sent from my Droid Charge running GummyCharged 2.0

Good luck but please follow up whether or not you follow through. We will be anticipating your success!
Sent from my SCH-I510 using XDA App

Finally got all the pieces today (the back cover took FOREVER to get here). I'll be updating within the next day as to how successful this is.

IT WORKS!!!! See first post for details!

That is so badass. I love this kind of modding.
Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk

Will you link to your parts sources? This looks like a great project. Thanks for all of the work you put in to share it with us!
Sent from my SCH-I510 using xda premium

I'm very busy. Don't have the time to do this sort of thing. Would u bill willing to make one for me. Just tell the the price for parts, including the charging station. Ill put it in your PayPal, when its done ill pay the labor and shipping..... what do u think?
Sent from my SCH-I510 using XDA App

justin94 said:
I'm very busy. Don't have the time to do this sort of thing. Would u bill willing to make one for me. Just tell the the price for parts, including the charging station. Ill put it in your PayPal, when its done ill pay the labor and shipping..... what do u think?
Sent from my SCH-I510 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't think it'll be worth my time and your money for me to do that. parts alone is gonna cost $40 (gotta get a new back cover too since I just used my original on mine) and add on labor and shipping (mainly shipping...) will put it over $60. If you still REALLY want one PM me and we can come to some kind of deal.

Nice mod. I'll probably solder the wires directly onto the contacts. Verizon has the touchstones for less than $5 right now. Free 2 day shipping.

+1 i had totally forgoten about trying to use the touchstone charger til i saw this. i use to sell them so i picked up a few from other stores and tried this out myself and im glad to say that it worked for me as well. i had to use a pixi back though.

I was able to do this mod to my Incredible 2. I was able to plug in the charger and test the points on the back of the phone to determine polarity for my mod.
I am now trying to do this on my Droid 3. Only issue I am having is that when plugged into the charger the leads are set up like so.
1 2 3 4
[ ] [ ] [ ] [ ]
Now testing across leads 1 and 2 I get 1.6v with #2 being the positive lead. Now after more testing it seems like #2 is the only positive lead??? can this be? Am I testing it wrong?

KrInEn said:
I was able to do this mod to my Incredible 2. I was able to plug in the charger and test the points on the back of the phone to determine polarity for my mod.
I am now trying to do this on my Droid 3. Only issue I am having is that when plugged into the charger the leads are set up like so.
1 2 3 4
[ ] [ ] [ ] [ ]
Now testing across leads 1 and 2 I get 1.6v with #2 being the positive lead. Now after more testing it seems like #2 is the only positive lead??? can this be? Am I testing it wrong?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Before trying to find the power lead, have you nailed down the ground? That's much easier to test for. Just find USB ground or any other ground in the phone and see which pins are grounded out. from there you might have better luck with finding power.
PS. An inductive charge back cover for your droid 3 costs $10 from verizon. Buy that, strip out the old internals, test those, then put in the palm pre ones in place of that. Problem solved, and no unslightly bulges from not having enough room in the stock case.

Sorry to bump an old thread But has anyone tried the induction back cover sold by verzion for the charge and used it with any mods with the touchstone "puck" wireless charger? Thanks

Bump. Vzw Droid charge inductive backs are on eBay ~$14usd. If compatable would be easy fix.
Edit: ordered the pieces, will try out and update. Curious if the contact points can be removed to use for other Verizon inductive ready devices like s3.

Okay please let me know!

No dice. Official verixon droid charge back and oem palm touch stone.
Have to still test it with a multi meter, so stay tuned. It might be as simple as palm has the opposite polarity then the verixon charging pad.
Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk 2

[Solved][Help] Home made USB OTG cable

I made my own USB OTG cable to use with my nexus 7 and my HOS and as you can see in the attached picture it's not very beautiful and if it moves false contexts can occurs so my problem is I want to make it "more beautiful" and make it a way there no contact between the differents soldering.
Here I'm calling the most handy of you to help because there I've got any idea
Hope somebody will be able to help me
It's not really software and android related but as it's still related to the phone I'm posting this there but it maybe the wrong forum but I don't know which one.
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Envoyé depuis mon HTC One S avec Tapatalk

Um... yea, not very beatiful soldering there.
And.. Well the picture is a bit dark, but it looks like you have messed up the colors? The correct order is red-white-green-black.
And then you just need to isolate the pins with something. I use tape for it. Place the tape between each pin so they cant short-circut eachother.
Edit: I attach a picture on how my Female to Female adapter looks like.
Note that I, too, suck at soldering. The tape sits between each pin when I slide it down (I moved it up for photo)

I'm going have to ask this but WHY? lol, the cable is dirt cheap to buy.

Yea, maybe if you live near a store that sells them, or dont mind waiting a week or 2 to get them from ebay.
Besides, making stuff yourself is a lot more fun

Goatshocker said:
Um... yea, not very beatiful soldering there.
And.. Well the picture is a bit dark, but it looks like you have messed up the colors? The correct order is red-white-green-black.
And then you just need to isolate the pins with something. I use tape for it. Place the tape between each pin so they cant short-circut eachother.
Edit: I attach a picture on how my Female to Female adapter looks like.
Note that I, too, suck at soldering. The tape sits between each pin when I slide it down (I moved it up for photo)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well i think made my soldering very fast (it's was just after I installed Ubuntu on my nexus 7 and I wanted to use a mouse as it's quite easier ) I think I will make then better if I have time.
I did not misconnected the pins it just out appears with this angle of view as the wrong order but it works so I think everything is OK
For isolating each pin and soldering with tape, I taught to that but I find this not very beautiful and not very easy to use add it moves all the time as you said.I talk to a friend and he suggested me hot glue (don't know if it's the right word for that, I'm French and I just translated the French word for that) then to remove the dirty tape that I used for the micro USB side and use strong tape (black to fit the cable color ) on both side to make everything strong.
What do you think of that?
Darknites said:
I'm going have to ask this but WHY? lol, the cable is dirt cheap to buy.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I admit it's not the best home made USB host cable but i'm period of it and I will as I said, make it better about soldering etc but the point is that I think it's better to do thing by yourself as long as you can do it so I did that cable and I enjoyed make it. And after that I did it I feel very satisfied of it because it works
Goatshocker said:
Yea, maybe if you live near a store that sells them, or dont mind waiting a week or 2 to get them from ebay.
Besides, making stuff yourself is a lot more fun
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're quite right
Envoyé depuis mon Nexus 7 avec Tapatalk

All I can add is to also make sure that you seperate the various wires with pieces of electrical tape so that they dont come into contact with eachother when you use the cable. You may have already known this though, but its important to double check. Its also something that happens when you jiggle the cable around. It could freeze for that very reason, ie the wires are coming into contact with eachother

AKToronto said:
All I can add is to also make sure that you seperate the various wires with pieces of electrical tape so that they dont come into contact with eachother when you use the cable. You may have already known this though, but its important to double check. Its also something that happens when you jiggle the cable around. It could freeze for that very reason, ie the wires are coming into contact with eachother
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I thought to that also but as it's very little it's hard to put the tape between them ... But I think I'll give a try tomorrow
Envoyé depuis mon Nexus 7 avec Tapatalk

Hot glue works good. The downside is its a ***** to get rid off should a cable come lose.
Im awesome at breaking cable connections so I tend to prefer tape which is easy to remove should I need to resolder something
Personally I dont really care how my cables look, as long as they work properly without a risk of damaging something.
I did a different approach than you (and many others), I made my cable hybrid. Meaning I can set it to be either a charge/sync cable like normal, or a USB OTG. Thats why I got the F-F connector

Goatshocker said:
Hot glue works good. The downside is its a ***** to get rid off should a cable come lose.
Im awesome at breaking cable connections so I tend to prefer tape which is easy to remove should I need to resolder something
Personally I dont really care how my cables look, as long as they work properly without a risk of damaging something.
I did a different approach than you (and many others), I made my cable hybrid. Meaning I can set it to be either a charge/sync cable like normal, or a USB OTG. Thats why I got the F-F connector
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes for sure it's harder to repair something with hot glue bit easier than putting little piece of electrical tape between each pins bit i'll give a try before I use hot glue if I do
Envoyé depuis mon Nexus 7 avec Tapatalk

Actually its easy with tape...
Take a long piece of tape, place it around pin1 first. Then draw it around pin1 and pin 2, then continue to cover pin 1, pin 2 and pin 3, then one last lap around all 4 pins.
That means pin 4 will get 1 layer of tape and pin 1 will get 4 layers in the end, but its by far the most simple way of doing it.
Heres an awesome picture made in paint. The black represents the pins, and the red is the tape.

Thanks for saying why and I understand just guess its something I wouldn't do because knowing my luck I mess it up lol.
Goatshocker, I don't buy from ebay but got it from Amazon and come in 2 days.

Goatshocker said:
Actually its easy with tape...
Take a long piece of tape, place it around pin1 first. Then draw it around pin1 and pin 2, then continue to cover pin 1, pin 2 and pin 3, then one last lap around all 4 pins.
That means pin 4 will get 1 layer of tape and pin 1 will get 4 layers in the end, but its by far the most simple way of doing it.
Heres an awesome picture made in paint. The black represents the pins, and the red is the tape.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll give a try
Envoyé depuis mon HTC One S avec Tapatalk

And obviously you can do a couple of more laps around all 4 pins for extra protection if you want. I tend to do 2-3 extra layers.

After a week i come back i enhanced my cable with the female part of an USB cable because i broke my last one --' and as you can see it's much better than the last time i only have to put some tape on it tu be sure there is no fake contact beetween each solder but it's working as it should be
Now i'm a bit expert in USB host home-made cable i just want to let you know if you want little tutorial or help to make on your own i'll be happy to do it
Envoyé depuis mon HTC One S avec Tapatalk

Mines better
I can set it to be either a normal microusb cable, or a host cable

Yes yours is cool but i prefer to get 2 cables
And here you got it with a too many tape on it xD what do you think
Envoyé depuis mon HTC One S avec Tapatalk

As long as it does what its supposed to it doesnt matter how it looks
My cable isnt exactly pretty either, but does what its supposed to.

Goatshocker said:
As long as it does what its supposed to it doesnt matter how it looks
My cable isnt exactly pretty either, but does what its supposed to.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Right
Envoyé depuis mon HTC One S avec Tapatalk

Sony Smartwatch MN2 DIY USB cable

Hi All,
I have this Sony smartwatch but lost my cable. I am looking for the pinlayout of the cable. Is there someone who can help me on the pin layout.
The signals for the pins om the watch like Vcc, Gnd etc
or the pin mapping from the usb connector to the watch connector.
I hope someone can help me on this.
Sent from my Iconia A500 using xda app-developers app

Okay, I found the answer in some other thread. Will try this out tomorow.
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USB male:
Pin
1 - VCC,
2 - D+,
3 - D-,
4 - GND
On Sony plug:
According to this: Holding the cable as in the picture, with the contacts facing you and the cable leading downwards,
Pin 4 is the left pin - GND
Pin 3 - D-
Pin 2 - D+
Pin 1 is the right pin - V+
Sent from my HTC Vision using xda app-developers app

The image for the connector here.
Sent from my HTC Vision using xda app-developers app

hi, i have also lost my smartwatch cable and have tried ordering a new one of sonymobile.com and when i placed the order i received no confirmation and was instantly redirected to the home...i had almost given up when i luckily stumbled across this thread,however i am a complete noob and would very much like to know what i will need and how to get my smartwatch working again! many thanks!

Hi, I made the cable and was able to charge my smartwatch. I will make a picture of my home made cable and post it here.
All you need is an old usb cable som small plastic, two pins and a soldering iron. It comes to connecting the right wires to the right pins.

Request
mvturnho said:
Hi, I made the cable and was able to charge my smartwatch. I will make a picture of my home made cable and post it here.
All you need is an old usb cable som small plastic, two pins and a soldering iron. It comes to connecting the right wires to the right pins.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please can u share how u did??

In the image my DIY cable.
I used a small pièce of plastic with pins melted though and hot glue to fix of all.
The cable is an old Mouse cable.

Not sure if anyone is looking for the official Sony cable but last time I checked it was available on the Verizon website. I think it was under $20...

DIP IC Socket and a piece of PCB

I lost my original...found a pin layout online from a photo of the board off a disassembled smartwatch. Looks like you guys already have the pinout covered though. What I did to make my cable was I used staples. I straightened out 4 ordinary office staples, bent one end up at a 90° angle...just a few millimeters. Then I used some JB stick (JB weld in putty form...you can buy it at your local hardware store, auto parts store, or Walmart). It hardens in minutes, is hard as steel, and most importantly is non-conductive. I painstakingly arranged the four staples on a bit of the jb putty, put another small layer of the putty over the top (so just the tips if the staples were exposed as well as a few millimeters of the other ends), and quickly wedged the whole thing into my Smartwatch. I pressed the spring clip down using it as a mold, then quickly and carefully pulled it out so it did not adhere to the watch. 5 minutes later the connector was hard as a rock. I then soldered my bare end of my USB cable to the staple ends, put some heat shrink, and dropped a little ball of solder on each of the 4 protruding bent staple tips at the other end of the connector. The 4 balls of solder now make nice shiny contact points to line up with the 4 terminals on the watch. Now I have a rock solid, professional looking diy charging cable. Been working for 4 months now no issues. Took me less than an hour for the whole project once I thought up the design.
Sent from my SPH-L900 using xda app-developers app

supersonic64126 said:
I lost my original...found a pin layout online from a photo of the board off a disassembled smartwatch. Looks like you guys already have the pinout covered though. What I did to make my cable was I used staples. I straightened out 4 ordinary office staples, bent one end up at a 90° angle...just a few millimeters. Then I used some JB stick (JB weld in putty form...you can buy it at your local hardware store, auto parts store, or Walmart). It hardens in minutes, is hard as steel, and most importantly is non-conductive. I painstakingly arranged the four staples on a bit of the jb putty, put another small layer of the putty over the top (so just the tips if the staples were exposed as well as a few millimeters of the other ends), and quickly wedged the whole thing into my Smartwatch. I pressed the spring clip down using it as a mold, then quickly and carefully pulled it out so it did not adhere to the watch. 5 minutes later the connector was hard as a rock. I then soldered my bare end of my USB cable to the staple ends, put some heat shrink, and dropped a little ball of solder on each of the 4 protruding bent staple tips at the other end of the connector. The 4 balls of solder now make nice shiny contact points to line up with the 4 terminals on the watch. Now I have a rock solid, professional looking diy charging cable. Been working for 4 months now no issues. Took me less than an hour for the whole project once I thought up the design.
Sent from my SPH-L900 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you put some picture?

Can anyone please give me the distance between the pins as I have a smartwatch coming with missing usb cable and I would like to make a cable ready for when it arrives?
Thanks

Got my watch and my first attempt is a no go, can anyone help with the following:
Do the pins on the watch need to be pushed down?
Is it only pins 1 + 4 that need connecting?
When the watch is completley dead does it take a while while on charge to see anything happening, I connect my cable and dont see any sign its charging??
Also taking apart a USB extension cable seems to be the perfect solution as the pins are the right way round to connect to the watch once you take apart the metal housing.
Please help
Sent from my GT-N7100 using XDA Premium HD app

I have my cable stop working and I make a simple one from a flat USB laying around. I try to buy one from Sony but it is out of order and was $22 with shipping. I am glad I found this cable and now I have-it for free only 15- 20 min of work.
Here are some pictures.

Wouldn't you need all 4 pins for firmware updating?

Kolma said:
Wouldn't you need all 4 pins for firmware updating?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes you need 4 pins if you want to upgrade the firmware but I think there will not be more updates for this smartwatch
because Sony will release the new SmartWatch 2 soon.

Have problem with my mn2 charging charging, it would just not charge, not sure if the problem is in cable or watch it self, did the cleaning of charging ports as mentioned in many places over the net but no success, any help will be welcomed.

supersonic64126 said:
I lost my original...found a pin layout online from a photo of the board off a disassembled smartwatch. Looks like you guys already have the pinout covered though. What I did to make my cable was I used staples. I straightened out 4 ordinary office staples, bent one end up at a 90° angle...just a few millimeters. Then I used some JB stick (JB weld in putty form...you can buy it at your local hardware store, auto parts store, or Walmart). It hardens in minutes, is hard as steel, and most importantly is non-conductive. I painstakingly arranged the four staples on a bit of the jb putty, put another small layer of the putty over the top (so just the tips if the staples were exposed as well as a few millimeters of the other ends), and quickly wedged the whole thing into my Smartwatch. I pressed the spring clip down using it as a mold, then quickly and carefully pulled it out so it did not adhere to the watch. 5 minutes later the connector was hard as a rock. I then soldered my bare end of my USB cable to the staple ends, put some heat shrink, and dropped a little ball of solder on each of the 4 protruding bent staple tips at the other end of the connector. The 4 balls of solder now make nice shiny contact points to line up with the 4 terminals on the watch. Now I have a rock solid, professional looking diy charging cable. Been working for 4 months now no issues. Took me less than an hour for the whole project once I thought up the design.
Sent from my SPH-L900 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
SIr good day!, I've lost my cable charge for my sony smartwatch, i want to know how you made an improvised one. do you have any pictures on how you make it in 4-staple wires?
Thanks!
-tony

about charger u made
aseeme555076 said:
DIP IC Socket and a piece of PCB
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
can u please tell or explain me how to make a charger plz plz beg ur leg

aseeme555076 said:
Can you put some picture?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lol, sooo apparently this guy doesn't either know how to use his keyboard... or he thinks he's to good to post a picture of his little "so called charger he created", or he's just plain ol bull****tin everyone about this whole idea he mentioned for someone to be THAT detailed about something... i think he was just thinkin about it in his head and didnt really MAKE the charger.... thats why my friends, you se NO picture...... a year later.