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Keeps Coming Unplugged From Charger

Hey guys, I'm dropping by to ask a quick question for a buddy of mine.
I finally convinced him to switch from the iPhone to Android (Captivate obviously) and he said that he absolutely loved it! However he sent me a text today saying that he had to take the phone back because it kept coming unplugged too easily. He needs to use the phone a lot which pretty much means that he also needs to use it while charging. But because it keeps coming unplugged, it is almost impossible to do so.
Has anyone else experienced similiar issues? Note that I haven't had any hands on experience with the device so I'm just looking for some feedback here to pass on to him.
Thanks guys!

Mine fits it with a death grip. At first I had the same issue as you listed with the cable falling out. It turns out you really need to slam the USB cover open with the force of 10,000 dieing suns to fully open the port. Give it a try should be fine.

DanteDrac said:
Mine fits it with a death grip. At first I had the same issue as you listed with the cable falling out. It turns out you really need to slam the USB cover open with the force of 10,000 dieing suns to fully open the port. Give it a try should be fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Perhaps I misunderstand what you said, but you said that you experienced the problem with the cable falling out, but what does that have to do with the usb cover? I looked it up on YouTube and I understand that the cover slides open to access the usb port but how does that hold the cable in place? Does your cable still fall out and if not then what did you do to resolve it?
Thanks for such a prompt response by the way.
I sent him the link to this thread and I'm certain that he'll stop by and read your comments.

You need to slide the usb cover all the way (until it snaps into place) over for the connector to fully attach itself.

correct, if it doesn't click , the plug won't fit securely and stay put

The cover easily gets stuck at 90% open. If you don't posh hard to push it the last 10%, cords won't stay in very well.

tysj said:
You need to slide the usb cover all the way (until it snaps into place) over for the connector to fully attach itself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
JacenSolo2001 said:
correct, if it doesn't click , the plug won't fit securely and stay put
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
He sent me a text
Just read the forum and the response... I tried everythig... USB cover couldn't open futher .. Even inspected the pin design on the male and female connectors with a magnifying glass .. Kept coming out .. Even on the second phone.. I wanted so bad for the phone to work .. It fit my need 200% .. .. just charger issue let me down
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

You need to slide the cover to you hear it snap. Simple.

Hah alright let me break out my DSLR to take a picture that you buddy can match up to how open my phone port currently is.
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Also only the micro USB cable that comes with the phone fits nicely, the other cables I have tried are iffy at best.

DanteDrac said:
Hah alright let me break out my DSLR to take a picture that you buddy can match up to how open my phone port currently is.
Also only the micro USB cable that comes with the phone fits nicely, the other cables I have tried are iffy at best.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Alright. I will pass this along and see if I get get his ass back to the store to get that phone again. Perhaps he just needs to try a little harder (or workout more). Thanks for the input guys. Perhaps I'll have to drive to an AT&T store to check out a model for myself to get an idea of how difficult it is. Curious, is it something that needs to be broken-in or is it supposed to be that damn difficult? Rhetorical question actually.

After I slammed it open just a hand full of times it slides very smoothly but will still actually lock closed.
Though tell him to keep in mind only certain Micro USB cables with fit in well. I had a spare nokia and some other generic one that while it would connect and such it would not actually stay in well.

DanteDrac said:
After I slammed it open just a hand full of times it slides very smoothly but will still actually lock closed.
Though tell him to keep in mind only certain Micro USB cables with fit in well. I had a spare nokia and some other generic one that while it would connect and such it would not actually stay in well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm pretty sure that he was using the one that came with it.

Dante, would you mind posting a pic (yours is so clear... better than my point and shoot could do) of it being in the "open but not all the way" position?
I had the same exact problem and yea, if you don't SNAP the cover open then the charger won't fit in there well.

Is he using the cable that came with the phone? I bought some Belkin Micro USB cables and the rubber around the connector was too big and wouldn't allow the USB cable to connect all the way down into the phone. I had to take the cables back. I'm waiting on some that supposedly fit the captivate that I bought on Ebay.

radi0chik said:
Is he using the cable that came with the phone? I bought some Belkin Micro USB cables and the rubber around the connector was too big and wouldn't allow the USB cable to connect all the way down into the phone. I had to take the cables back. I'm waiting on some that supposedly fit the captivate that I bought on Ebay.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought some $1.09 or whatever Blackberry cables on Amazon... They work just fine.
Granted I have a Prime membership so my shipping was free though.

TexUs said:
Dante, would you mind posting a pic (yours is so clear... better than my point and shoot could do) of it being in the "open but not all the way" position?
I had the same exact problem and yea, if you don't SNAP the cover open then the charger won't fit in there well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No problem. In the bottom picture it was charging but would fall out easy just like the OPs friend was running into.

That's because the slider cover isn't open all the way. The "bump" should be all the way against the edge of the opening. That picture has the rubber bit of the connector hitting the slide cover and no wonder it doesn't connect. Push that slide over all the way and it'll fit.

The problem is that the bevel that makes the Captivate look so cool plus the deeper recess of the female socket prevents square-end connectors from inserting fully.
The Samsung cable has more exposed metal and less plastic than most Micro USB cables, but you can make most any of the Micro USB cables you already own fit perfectly, though they might then be looser in other phones (not likely, most female ends on phones aren't recessed).
You can do what I did. I took a sharp pocket knife (X-acto or box cutter will also work) and trimmed down about 1-2mm of plastic on the "bottom" side of the cable, at a 45 degree angle.
Old cable end looked like this from the side: USB CABLE--|_|-- />phone
Trimmed plastic looks like this from the side: USB CABLE--|_/-- />phone
Fits like a charm, can actually dangle the phone by the cable now, when before it would just about fall out if you looked at it funny.

Croak said:
Fits like a charm, can actually dangle the phone by the cable now, when before it would just about fall out if you looked at it funny.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LOLOL.
but the x-acto idea worked perfectly! thanks

radi0chik said:
That's because the slider cover isn't open all the way. The "bump" should be all the way against the edge of the opening. That picture has the rubber bit of the connector hitting the slide cover and no wonder it doesn't connect. Push that slide over all the way and it'll fit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Read the post fully please. I was posting picture at the request of another member on what it would look like plugged in with the slide not fully open.

[MOD] Palm Pre Touchstone for Droid Charge (first prototype working!!!!!)

Update #2:
Just ordered another touchstone to play with. They're $3 cheaper through verizon if you have a corporate discount I'm gonna see about adding some neodymium magnets to this mix in order to hold the phone while its in a case. This is gonna require drilling into the original magnet (yes... even though there's 4 magnet contact points, theres just one big honking magnet in the touchstone which acts as both magnet and ferrite core for the induction coil. There's some pretty cool engineering going on in this thing) which should be fun. It turns out that the phone will charge through a really thin case (like a gel case or a cheap amazon two piece case) but just not through the stock verizon or thicker case.
Update #1:
Well... it works!!!! There wasn't any strange hitches with the setup. The wireless charge ports on the back do as they're supposed to, and the pre induction pickup works through the droid charge case. The hardest part was finding the right material for the contact points (I'll post an update later with more details about how I did this... ). The only drawbacks to this mod are that your charge is now about 1mm thicker on the back and the induction charging does NOT work through a case (at least the stock verizon case with kickstand). That being said, this mod is completely reversible (unlike every other pre induction charger to X phone mod) so you don't lose your warranty (or even your back cover).
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Parts List:
1x Palm Pre Touchstone Charging Dock, cable and power adapter
1x Palm Pre Touchstone Back Cover
some wire
a soldering iron and solder
patience
Total cost of materials comes out to ~$15
Instructions:
(0) If you don't know your way around a soldering iron or multimeter then I highly suggest you stop here and get some help doing this. The likelihood of damage to your phone is low, but doing something stupid like flipping the polarities or shorting your charge wires WILL probably fry something, either the pre induction charger, your phone, or both. I am most definitely not responsible for any mishaps or stupidity on your part. You have been warned!
1) Separate the induction coil, circult, and metal circles from the back of the Palm Pre. You're gonna have to do some digging with a screwdriver as they're stuck on pretty tight, but once you start peeling it comes off pretty easy.
2) make contacts for the Charge in order to reach the "wireless charging" port on the back. This is the hardest step by far. I ended up using some long 8mil circuit board headers that I bent, cut, and trimmed to size (see pictures for how I did the bending). I'm not sure if I recommend doing it my way as this still isn't an ideal setup, but it works. The important thing to remember is that there's about 1mm or less of clearance between the phone-side contacts and the case, so plan accordingly. Again, look at my pictures for a basic idea of how to make the contacts work, but remember that what I did IS NOT IDEAL.
3) place the contacts carefully on the phone in the correct position. Its easier to line them up on the phone than it is to guesstimate their position on the case.
4) put a small piece of tape on the back of the pre induction charger (see picture for tape location, it should be on the non-sticky side) and lay this CAREFULLY and STICKY SIDE UP onto the position you want on the back of the phone. Make sure you have not moved your contacts when you laid this down. At this point you don't need to press anything down yet, so just gently placing it is fine as long as its in the right position.
5) gently and without moving anything snap the cover back on. Press tightly, then carefully remove the cover. Everything you just placed (especially the contacts) should still be in the same place. If not, you're gonna have to start over at least with the contacts.
6) Press everything down tight, and permanently secure the contacts to the back of the cover (or in my case, the back of the pre induction charger sticky piece). a dab of superglue should be plenty.
7) solder the wires from the induction charger circuit to the contacts. Positive at toward the top of the phone, ground is toward the bottom of the phone. On the induction charger if you flip it like I did then positive is toward the top and ground is toward the bottom as well.
8) TEST TEST TEST. Get a volt meter and make sure you're getting ~5.5v from your contacts when you put the back cover on the touchstone. If not, then you did something wrong. My mistake the first time was not putting all the sticky layers back together in the correct order. It goes black sticky layer, silver sticky layer, then coil. The coil should be sitting directly on the plastic of the cover. The order is important! Also, make sure that your polarities are correct (positive top, gnd bottom).
9) Snap everything back together and put the phone on the touchstone. It should register immediately as wireless charging. Voila la! Wireless charging for $15 on the Droid Charge! Now go get a beer and take a nap
Now I need some sleep... Ask any questions you want and I'll try to be helpful, and maybe tomorrow I'll put up a proper tutorial with pictures on how to do this. Till then... take a gander at the pictures of the final product
Introduction:
Dunno why I haven't seen this on the droid charge forums yet, but I've just bought the parts for a palm pre induction charger grafted onto a droid charge. The way I see it, the charge (and the thunderbolt) are perfect phones for this as verizon has kindly provided us with inductive charger contact points already But wait you ask... why am I going through all this trouble when there's already an induction charger available for the Droid Charge? Simple. I really didn't want to pay over $50 for an induction charger, so $15 for a touchstone + pre backplate seemed like a good compromise. My only concern at this point is the rather limited spacing between the back cover and the battery. I'm gonna have to do some testing to see if I can actually wedge the charger in there (probably not... seeing as how verizon had to make a slightly thicker back for their charger) or if I'm gonna have to do some fancy cutting to the stock back. Stay tuned...

+1, would be interesting to watch tbis
Sent from my Droid Charge running GummyCharged 2.0

Good luck but please follow up whether or not you follow through. We will be anticipating your success!
Sent from my SCH-I510 using XDA App

Finally got all the pieces today (the back cover took FOREVER to get here). I'll be updating within the next day as to how successful this is.

IT WORKS!!!! See first post for details!

That is so badass. I love this kind of modding.
Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk

Will you link to your parts sources? This looks like a great project. Thanks for all of the work you put in to share it with us!
Sent from my SCH-I510 using xda premium

I'm very busy. Don't have the time to do this sort of thing. Would u bill willing to make one for me. Just tell the the price for parts, including the charging station. Ill put it in your PayPal, when its done ill pay the labor and shipping..... what do u think?
Sent from my SCH-I510 using XDA App

justin94 said:
I'm very busy. Don't have the time to do this sort of thing. Would u bill willing to make one for me. Just tell the the price for parts, including the charging station. Ill put it in your PayPal, when its done ill pay the labor and shipping..... what do u think?
Sent from my SCH-I510 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't think it'll be worth my time and your money for me to do that. parts alone is gonna cost $40 (gotta get a new back cover too since I just used my original on mine) and add on labor and shipping (mainly shipping...) will put it over $60. If you still REALLY want one PM me and we can come to some kind of deal.

Nice mod. I'll probably solder the wires directly onto the contacts. Verizon has the touchstones for less than $5 right now. Free 2 day shipping.

+1 i had totally forgoten about trying to use the touchstone charger til i saw this. i use to sell them so i picked up a few from other stores and tried this out myself and im glad to say that it worked for me as well. i had to use a pixi back though.

I was able to do this mod to my Incredible 2. I was able to plug in the charger and test the points on the back of the phone to determine polarity for my mod.
I am now trying to do this on my Droid 3. Only issue I am having is that when plugged into the charger the leads are set up like so.
1 2 3 4
[ ] [ ] [ ] [ ]
Now testing across leads 1 and 2 I get 1.6v with #2 being the positive lead. Now after more testing it seems like #2 is the only positive lead??? can this be? Am I testing it wrong?

KrInEn said:
I was able to do this mod to my Incredible 2. I was able to plug in the charger and test the points on the back of the phone to determine polarity for my mod.
I am now trying to do this on my Droid 3. Only issue I am having is that when plugged into the charger the leads are set up like so.
1 2 3 4
[ ] [ ] [ ] [ ]
Now testing across leads 1 and 2 I get 1.6v with #2 being the positive lead. Now after more testing it seems like #2 is the only positive lead??? can this be? Am I testing it wrong?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Before trying to find the power lead, have you nailed down the ground? That's much easier to test for. Just find USB ground or any other ground in the phone and see which pins are grounded out. from there you might have better luck with finding power.
PS. An inductive charge back cover for your droid 3 costs $10 from verizon. Buy that, strip out the old internals, test those, then put in the palm pre ones in place of that. Problem solved, and no unslightly bulges from not having enough room in the stock case.

Sorry to bump an old thread But has anyone tried the induction back cover sold by verzion for the charge and used it with any mods with the touchstone "puck" wireless charger? Thanks

Bump. Vzw Droid charge inductive backs are on eBay ~$14usd. If compatable would be easy fix.
Edit: ordered the pieces, will try out and update. Curious if the contact points can be removed to use for other Verizon inductive ready devices like s3.

Okay please let me know!

No dice. Official verixon droid charge back and oem palm touch stone.
Have to still test it with a multi meter, so stay tuned. It might be as simple as palm has the opposite polarity then the verixon charging pad.
Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk 2

[Solved][Help] Home made USB OTG cable

I made my own USB OTG cable to use with my nexus 7 and my HOS and as you can see in the attached picture it's not very beautiful and if it moves false contexts can occurs so my problem is I want to make it "more beautiful" and make it a way there no contact between the differents soldering.
Here I'm calling the most handy of you to help because there I've got any idea
Hope somebody will be able to help me
It's not really software and android related but as it's still related to the phone I'm posting this there but it maybe the wrong forum but I don't know which one.
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Envoyé depuis mon HTC One S avec Tapatalk

Um... yea, not very beatiful soldering there.
And.. Well the picture is a bit dark, but it looks like you have messed up the colors? The correct order is red-white-green-black.
And then you just need to isolate the pins with something. I use tape for it. Place the tape between each pin so they cant short-circut eachother.
Edit: I attach a picture on how my Female to Female adapter looks like.
Note that I, too, suck at soldering. The tape sits between each pin when I slide it down (I moved it up for photo)

I'm going have to ask this but WHY? lol, the cable is dirt cheap to buy.

Yea, maybe if you live near a store that sells them, or dont mind waiting a week or 2 to get them from ebay.
Besides, making stuff yourself is a lot more fun

Goatshocker said:
Um... yea, not very beatiful soldering there.
And.. Well the picture is a bit dark, but it looks like you have messed up the colors? The correct order is red-white-green-black.
And then you just need to isolate the pins with something. I use tape for it. Place the tape between each pin so they cant short-circut eachother.
Edit: I attach a picture on how my Female to Female adapter looks like.
Note that I, too, suck at soldering. The tape sits between each pin when I slide it down (I moved it up for photo)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well i think made my soldering very fast (it's was just after I installed Ubuntu on my nexus 7 and I wanted to use a mouse as it's quite easier ) I think I will make then better if I have time.
I did not misconnected the pins it just out appears with this angle of view as the wrong order but it works so I think everything is OK
For isolating each pin and soldering with tape, I taught to that but I find this not very beautiful and not very easy to use add it moves all the time as you said.I talk to a friend and he suggested me hot glue (don't know if it's the right word for that, I'm French and I just translated the French word for that) then to remove the dirty tape that I used for the micro USB side and use strong tape (black to fit the cable color ) on both side to make everything strong.
What do you think of that?
Darknites said:
I'm going have to ask this but WHY? lol, the cable is dirt cheap to buy.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I admit it's not the best home made USB host cable but i'm period of it and I will as I said, make it better about soldering etc but the point is that I think it's better to do thing by yourself as long as you can do it so I did that cable and I enjoyed make it. And after that I did it I feel very satisfied of it because it works
Goatshocker said:
Yea, maybe if you live near a store that sells them, or dont mind waiting a week or 2 to get them from ebay.
Besides, making stuff yourself is a lot more fun
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're quite right
Envoyé depuis mon Nexus 7 avec Tapatalk

All I can add is to also make sure that you seperate the various wires with pieces of electrical tape so that they dont come into contact with eachother when you use the cable. You may have already known this though, but its important to double check. Its also something that happens when you jiggle the cable around. It could freeze for that very reason, ie the wires are coming into contact with eachother

AKToronto said:
All I can add is to also make sure that you seperate the various wires with pieces of electrical tape so that they dont come into contact with eachother when you use the cable. You may have already known this though, but its important to double check. Its also something that happens when you jiggle the cable around. It could freeze for that very reason, ie the wires are coming into contact with eachother
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I thought to that also but as it's very little it's hard to put the tape between them ... But I think I'll give a try tomorrow
Envoyé depuis mon Nexus 7 avec Tapatalk

Hot glue works good. The downside is its a ***** to get rid off should a cable come lose.
Im awesome at breaking cable connections so I tend to prefer tape which is easy to remove should I need to resolder something
Personally I dont really care how my cables look, as long as they work properly without a risk of damaging something.
I did a different approach than you (and many others), I made my cable hybrid. Meaning I can set it to be either a charge/sync cable like normal, or a USB OTG. Thats why I got the F-F connector

Goatshocker said:
Hot glue works good. The downside is its a ***** to get rid off should a cable come lose.
Im awesome at breaking cable connections so I tend to prefer tape which is easy to remove should I need to resolder something
Personally I dont really care how my cables look, as long as they work properly without a risk of damaging something.
I did a different approach than you (and many others), I made my cable hybrid. Meaning I can set it to be either a charge/sync cable like normal, or a USB OTG. Thats why I got the F-F connector
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes for sure it's harder to repair something with hot glue bit easier than putting little piece of electrical tape between each pins bit i'll give a try before I use hot glue if I do
Envoyé depuis mon Nexus 7 avec Tapatalk

Actually its easy with tape...
Take a long piece of tape, place it around pin1 first. Then draw it around pin1 and pin 2, then continue to cover pin 1, pin 2 and pin 3, then one last lap around all 4 pins.
That means pin 4 will get 1 layer of tape and pin 1 will get 4 layers in the end, but its by far the most simple way of doing it.
Heres an awesome picture made in paint. The black represents the pins, and the red is the tape.

Thanks for saying why and I understand just guess its something I wouldn't do because knowing my luck I mess it up lol.
Goatshocker, I don't buy from ebay but got it from Amazon and come in 2 days.

Goatshocker said:
Actually its easy with tape...
Take a long piece of tape, place it around pin1 first. Then draw it around pin1 and pin 2, then continue to cover pin 1, pin 2 and pin 3, then one last lap around all 4 pins.
That means pin 4 will get 1 layer of tape and pin 1 will get 4 layers in the end, but its by far the most simple way of doing it.
Heres an awesome picture made in paint. The black represents the pins, and the red is the tape.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll give a try
Envoyé depuis mon HTC One S avec Tapatalk

And obviously you can do a couple of more laps around all 4 pins for extra protection if you want. I tend to do 2-3 extra layers.

After a week i come back i enhanced my cable with the female part of an USB cable because i broke my last one --' and as you can see it's much better than the last time i only have to put some tape on it tu be sure there is no fake contact beetween each solder but it's working as it should be
Now i'm a bit expert in USB host home-made cable i just want to let you know if you want little tutorial or help to make on your own i'll be happy to do it
Envoyé depuis mon HTC One S avec Tapatalk

Mines better
I can set it to be either a normal microusb cable, or a host cable

Yes yours is cool but i prefer to get 2 cables
And here you got it with a too many tape on it xD what do you think
Envoyé depuis mon HTC One S avec Tapatalk

As long as it does what its supposed to it doesnt matter how it looks
My cable isnt exactly pretty either, but does what its supposed to.

Goatshocker said:
As long as it does what its supposed to it doesnt matter how it looks
My cable isnt exactly pretty either, but does what its supposed to.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Right
Envoyé depuis mon HTC One S avec Tapatalk

[Q] Broke a small golden connector on MB while replacing screen

Hi,
I was replacing the screen on my HTC ONE X AT&T and I had to diassemble it a few times because the replacement screen was no good and I thought I did something wrong, and became impatient and broke a small golden Connector on the motherboard.
It is the spring connector on the right hand side (while the phone is screen down), the bottom one.
I glued it with some adhesive temporarily.
My question is:
HOW do I fix this?
Can I weld it in place?
Can I get a replacement part? if yes, how is this called and where can i get it?
Please help, i am not giving up on 250 bucks i spent already.
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Video: http://youtu.be/2IAWi_nnGzw
Thanks (and be careful while purchasing screen from China)

Post a pic of the back shell ( the locations are diff than the international). You may or may not be in luck. the pin you didnt break is ground. If the trace is still good on the broken pin then it is real easy to just solder a thin wire from the bent pin to the pad (its a wifi trick for the international version). You may also be in luck if its not a good feature. You only have to worry about the 3g. lte, and wifi antenna. If its the near field antenna then it might not matter to you.
Like i said post picks of the back shell so we can see what that connects too. Hell it might just be a shielding (the back is all plastic) and you will be fine.

nightanole said:
Post a pic of the back shell ( the locations are diff than the international). You may or may not be in luck. the pin you didnt break is ground. If the trace is still good on the broken pin then it is real easy to just solder a thin wire from the bent pin to the pad (its a wifi trick for the international version). You may also be in luck if its not a good feature. You only have to worry about the 3g. lte, and wifi antenna. If its the near field antenna then it might not matter to you.
Like i said post picks of the back shell so we can see what that connects too. Hell it might just be a shielding (the back is all plastic) and you will be fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok so these are the pics for the back shell, the phone is AT&T but i am from Israel so I don't think the LTE technology will matter that much:
My brother is a Electronics Engineer and I asked if he can weld the thing to the mother board, and he said it's a risk cause the welding machine we have is cheap and some parts can't handle a 350 degree heat or something.
What do you think?
Also, any chance i can get this part somewhere? buy it?
Thanks!!

MosesTheTool said:
Ok so these are the pics for the back shell, the phone is AT&T but i am from Israel so I don't think the LTE technology will matter that much:
My brother is a Electronics Engineer and I asked if he can weld the thing to the mother board, and he said it's a risk cause the welding machine we have is cheap and some parts can't handle a 350 degree heat or something.
What do you think?
Also, any chance i can get this part somewhere? buy it?
Thanks!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I hope you mean solder and not weld :\
Sent from my Nexus 4

On Google Translate "Solder" and "Weld" mean the same thing.
But it's pretty obvious what I mean.... Don't you think?

Good news and bad news, bad news is you broke the tab to your bluetooth antenna. Good news is you can weld (solder weld that is) the tabs to the pads without damage. They are not chips so they can handle 325-375c just fine.
Im a electronics process engineer, so my job is to figure out how to get the chips on the board with the least amount of damage.
1. tin the tab of the broke (or both if you want to solder both tabs) pin
2. tin the broke/glued pin (hope that the trace/connection is still good)
3. tin both ends of the wire you will use jumper the pad to the pin. I LOVE silver plated teflon jacket 30 gauge. It can take some abuse.
4. solder weld the wire to the pad with the soldering iron on.
5. solder weld the wire to the pin with the soldering iron off. You will have to be very quick (5 sec window on most). since both peices have been pretinned this should be quick and easy.
That should be it. The only semi tricky part is the flux. If you use rosin core you can leave it on if you didnt go nutts. If you used no clean flux you just have to hope you heated it enough to neutralize it. If you used clear organic core flux, well the stuff is conductive as hell.. and you have to clean it off with water.

nightanole Dude, you are awesome.
I will let my brother look into your electronics mumbo-jumbo because it looks like Chinese to me, but he will figure that shee out.
Where did you get the info that it is the BT antenna?, I am searching every where for some technical PDFs for repairing and mapping HTC ONE X and can't find jack.
Thanks again, really appreciate it.

I broke the same tab, I even lost the tab but just used some solder to stick out enough. It was actually the wifi antenna connection that broke. after soldering I get enough wifi reception to the point where it is not a problem. good luck

idealz said:
I broke the same tab, I even lost the tab but just used some solder to stick out enough. It was actually the wifi antenna connection that broke. after soldering I get enough wifi reception to the point where it is not a problem. good luck
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wi-fi, Bluetooth, doesn't matter as long as it is fixable. I was really upset with myself for breaking it.
Thanks :good:

Can anyone advise how this golden spring is called? Rather tech language so I can find a replacement.
also maybe where can I find a replacement??
Thanks
Sent from my HTC One X using xda app-developers app

MosesTheTool said:
Can anyone advise how this golden spring is called? Rather tech language so I can find a replacement.
also maybe where can I find a replacement??
Thanks
Sent from my HTC One X using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its technically a spring loaded pin connector. Though i couldnt find one like it that wasnt super long. My best guess would be to try to rob one out of a headphone jack or dc power jack.
If you where really creative you might just be able to gut a usb socket and bend the pin in half. The best bet is just to solder the thing, as the international versions are horrible with the wifi and soldering is the fix.

It would probably work great if I solder it with a wire. But I really don't want to limit the disassembly of the thing - who knows how many more cr*p chinese screen they will send me that will not work.
Soldering a spring that is similar to the original one seems like the best long term general solution.
Thanks for helping, I couldn't find a replacement for this anywhere, I guess it's unusual for people to try and fix it without owning a lab.
I thought about buying a broken MB but spending 50 bucks for that little spring is insane.
I'll try figure out which parts from those you listed will be closest to the real deal and give it a shot.
Thanks again
Sent from my HTC One X using xda app-developers app

You dont have to buy something for the htc one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/US-HTC-HD2-...le-Ribbon-Connector-Replacement-/151006454298
This guy comes with what looks like 2 compatible pins for $7 shipped. Just look around for htc boards, all their phones use the dumb "hey lets put pogo pins to hold antennas to the back case" tech that sucks.

That part doesn't have that pin. But I went to a cell repair shop and he gave me an htc part that has pins similar to what I need. Now I only have to solder it Somehow.
Thanksss
Sent from my HTC One X using xda app-developers app

Can someone point me to where the GND connector is? Is it the one above the broken pin in the original post?
I recently had my screen replaced it periodically goes crazy. Based on what I've searched what I believe is happening is that static builds up in the screen (due to a poor grounding) which simulates someone touching the screen near the bottom moving side to side very quickly. It is particularly bad when it is plugged in which further leads me to believe it is a grounding issue.
There is a thread on the HTC Sensation where they have modded the GND terminal for a better connection to the case - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1239238
I have not been able to find one for the HTC ONE XL and was hoping someone could point me in the right direction. I figured I'd post here to reference the OP's photos of the motherboard.

Craigsdock - The best high end car dock I've ever purchased - Adaptable for USB C

I bought the $60 aluminum/adjustable Craigsdock many years ago for my Galaxy Note 3 and have used that same dock all these years with like six other phones. Best $$ I ever spent.
It's fully height/width/depth adjustable for use with any 5" to 6+" phone.
http://www.craigsdocks.com/samsung-galaxy-s3-s4-s5-note-2-3-4
I got rid of the window mount base years ago and currently use it with a ProClip custom dashboard base:
http://www.proclipusa.com/dashboard-mounts/car-dash-mounts.aspx
:good:
EDIT:
I did forget to mention another thing that makes this dock future proof.
The Micro USB cable is quickly removable/replaceable.
I've used USB 2.0 and USB OTG and Quick Charge 2.0 cables and will now install a USB C cable.
EDIT 2:
Another point to consider is the volume rocker on the Pixel is more towards the middle of the phone, which makes some car docks useless. The Craigsdock car dock grabs the phone by the lower portion, so there is no volume rocker interference to worry about.

wrong plug. that's a micro-usb plug

Right. Nice that he likes the product so much, and supports it, but it won't work with this phone.... So....
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

PaisanNYC said:
wrong plug. that's a micro-usb plug
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lol, the plug is not hard wired. It's removable. Takes two seconds to replace the cable.
I've used a dozen different cables in my dock.
You just remove this one and use a USB C cable instead.
Or even a USB OTG USB C adapter.

CZ Eddie said:
I bought the $60 aluminum/adjustable Craigsdock many years ago for my Galaxy Note 3 and have used that same dock all these years with like six other phones. Best $$ I ever spent.
It's fully height/width/depth adjustable for use with any 5" to 6+" phone.
http://www.craigsdocks.com/samsung-galaxy-s3-s4-s5-note-2-3-4
I got rid of the window mount base years ago and currently use it with a ProClip custom dashboard base:
http://www.proclipusa.com/dashboard-mounts/car-dash-mounts.aspx
..............................
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I finally bought a Proclip mount for my truck. Should have done that a long time ago instead of using a kind of floppy vent mount for so long. I contacted Proclip about a holder for the Pixel XL when I bought the mount (as the OP knows, you buy the mount for your car and the holder for the phone separately). They said they would have something a few weeks after the Pixel came out. The Craigsdocks looks like an interesting alternative especially with the ability to switch out the cable/USB connector. Other Proclip holders have a USB C connector and cable built-in, but if that cable went bad (as they often do) I think it would be a pain to replace the cable/connector. I am going to take more of a look at that Craigsdock.
Thanks for the tip.

On a side note, Craig makes the best vape mod (oi mod) I have ever used. I have 2. Quality stuff from Craig.

I watched some of the Craigsdocks videos of him making the docks (he is quite an artisan) and contacted him about buying a car dock for my Pixel XL. He said he is machining up a cable/connector holder specific for USB-C. It seems like the holder meant for micro-USB would work fine (just loosen the set screw, slide out the cable/connector, insert a USB-C cable/connector, and then retighten the set screw), but I guess he wanted to make a USB-C specific version of the clamp. I am definitely ordering one when he is ready.

Op, can you post a picture, or explain the set up you are using. I currently have the ProClip adjustable for an iPhone 6s plus, with a lightning to type C module for my Nexus 6p and my Pixel XL ... It works but I'm always changing phones and this interest my. I am specifically interested in how you connected the ProClip base to the CraigDock. I appreciate your post. Thanks.

Don't have the Craigsdocks yet although I noticed the Craigsdocks website now has Pixel XL listed in the menu (although following the link doesn't give more information). When Craig e-mailed me back about working on a USB-C specific cable/connector holder, he said this about mounting it to my Proclip flat dashmount "so basically all you would need is one 1/4" hole drilled through it and put a 1/4" wide course thread bolt from the back into the ball mount, its female threading is 1/4" - 20 tpi". The ball mount is an option if you want to tilt the phone towards you. The phone holder comes with a 1/4" bolt also, but only allows rotating and not tilting. He has a bunch of videos on Youtube showing him making and using the mounts.

[email protected] said:
Op, can you post a picture, or explain the set up you are using.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll try to post up pics after I install the dock again.
I'm still deciding how I want to hard-wire the charger in my car.
But basically, I bought the vehicle specific mounting platform from ProClip/Brodit.
Then superglued that mounting platform to the Craigsdock. I did use a clamp to pressure the two parts together overnight when I glued it.
It's been rock solid for the last year.
But my Craigsdock is the original one, not the one he currently sells.
So my method may or may not work as well for you.
I'd love to have his new dock. Craig, if you're out there... discount one for me and I'll pimp it out for you.
Where and how I bought my vehicle specific ProClip:
http://www.brodit.com/proclip.html
Installation of the ProClip:
ProClip glued to my Craigsdock dock. The dock is the left side and the ProClip is the right side:
Rear view of the dock/mount:
A pic of the mount in my old car, angled for landscape instead of portrait.
You can kinda see how the MicroUSB cable gets installed in the dock.

Ahh, yeah how cool is that. Craig does indeed appear to be working on a Pixel dock.
http://www.craigsdocks.com/google-pixel-xl/
Thanks for the heads up.
I'll keep checking that link for when he finishes the dock and adds pics & pricing to that page.
I've had mine for like five years maybe?
Wouldn't mind putting it on my motorcycle and getting a new dock for the car.
And yes, the adjustability (for how tight a fit you want) and durability make this dock a good choice for motorcycles.

I don't get it. What makes this dock so good?

I appreciate the thorough post, I will be looking into the Dock, thanks

I ordered mine yesterday and it is on its way to me today (USPS priority). I'll post some pictures of the complete setup when I have everything together.

Haas360 said:
I don't get it. What makes this dock so good?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That depends, what are you looking for in a dock?
Upgradeability?
Flexibility?
Durability?
Well... check, check and check.
Please let me know if I've missed something.

mtucker said:
I ordered mine yesterday and it is on its way to me today (USPS priority). I'll post some pictures of the complete setup when I have everything together.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you order the S3 dock or the one he's designing for the Pixel?
Very interested in pics, thanks.
I like the old design and am interested in how nice the new one looks.
I wonder if he's willing to sell the old design still.
He's responsive to emails so I could probably just ask.

CZ Eddie said:
Did you order the S3 dock or the one he's designing for the Pixel? Very interested in pics, thanks. I like the old design and am interested in how nice the new one looks. I wonder if he's willing to sell the old design still. He's responsive to emails so I could probably just ask.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I ordered the dock for the Pixel. He changed the web page briefly so it showed available and I could order it. He designed the USB-C connector holder around the Monoprice "select Series" cables. It can likely accommodate other C connectors, but since it will fit the Select Series like a glove I ordered a C-C Select from Monoprice. I believe he will ship a Select A-C cable with most orders, but since I have a Belkin USB-C PD charger with the C connector on it I decided to order the C-C cable from Monoprice. Once I get it and try it out, I'll post links to the cable(s).
He is very responsive to e-mails.

She arrived yesterday. Here are a few pictures of it by itself, with naked Pixel XL, and with a RhinoShield bumper. I'll post some pictures when I get it mounted in vehicle.
As it arrives with the optional swivel ball mount. It would normally have a USB A-C cable, but I wanted to use a C-C cable.
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Closeup of the mount. The felt on the front surface is a nice touch.
The swivel ball mount
Pixel in the mount. No cable attached yet.
View of the arm and the lower volume button. I originally e-mailed Craig the dimensions of the Pixel XL from bottom to volume button. He said I should have about 1mm clearance. Sure enough. You can also bias up the USB-C connector in the connector clamp so the phone doesn't rest on the bottom of the dock if you wanted more clearance.
Same shot, but with the RhinoShield bumper on.
Back shot with the RhinoShield bumper on.

All done. FYI CZ Eddie, I think if you contact Craig he might be able to sell you a cable/connector clamp made for the C connector that would replace your micro USB clamp. That would probably make things a lot easier and more clean.
You can tell Craig designed the cable/connector clamp around the Monoprice C connector. The stock Google C connector fit in the clamp OK (a little extra room so it wobbles a bit before you tighten it down), but the Monoprice cable fit like a glove. I used this Select Series cable http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=13034 Craig would normally ship the Monoprice Select series A-C USB cable with the dock. I wanted C-C so I ordered my own.
The Proclip mount I already had in my truck. You could of course use the mount and sticky tape Craig provides. The Proclip is very sturdy and puts the phone up high where I like it so I stuck with it.
I ran the USB cable through my air vent so I wouldn't have cables draping down my dash. I used a zip tie to hold the cable back at an angle near the bottom of the dock. It is a fairly tight angle, but the strain relief keep the bend spread out fairly evenly.
View from the side showing the optional swivel mount. It doesn't stick out too far from the dash which I think is good.
Vertical position
Horizontal position
EDIT: I had info in here about the cable/connector clamp not going low enough and that put a small gap between the phone and dock only near the bottom of the phone. This morning I was looking at my phone and it hit me...... the Pixels are thinner at the bottom than they are at the top.

@mtucker that looks so good. Nice job!
I finally got my USB C cable and installed the dock.
My Craigsdock is several years old, a first generation product and probably needs a little bit of black touch-up paint.
I'll be routing the cable behind the dash like mtucker did. But I'm holding off till I replace my car stereo with an Ordoid XU4 Android PC and 8" LCD screen. The dash is a PITA to take apart, so I'm waiting till I'm ready to do everything in one shot.
Pics.
Right-angle USB-C connector shaved just a bit to fit in the Craigsdock port.
It's clean.
It's super stable.
It's not going anywhere, no matter how hard I tap on that screen.
Yes, I prefer portrait over landscape.