Database Info

Keeps Coming Unplugged From Charger

Hey guys, I'm dropping by to ask a quick question for a buddy of mine.
I finally convinced him to switch from the iPhone to Android (Captivate obviously) and he said that he absolutely loved it! However he sent me a text today saying that he had to take the phone back because it kept coming unplugged too easily. He needs to use the phone a lot which pretty much means that he also needs to use it while charging. But because it keeps coming unplugged, it is almost impossible to do so.
Has anyone else experienced similiar issues? Note that I haven't had any hands on experience with the device so I'm just looking for some feedback here to pass on to him.
Thanks guys!

Mine fits it with a death grip. At first I had the same issue as you listed with the cable falling out. It turns out you really need to slam the USB cover open with the force of 10,000 dieing suns to fully open the port. Give it a try should be fine.

DanteDrac said:
Mine fits it with a death grip. At first I had the same issue as you listed with the cable falling out. It turns out you really need to slam the USB cover open with the force of 10,000 dieing suns to fully open the port. Give it a try should be fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Perhaps I misunderstand what you said, but you said that you experienced the problem with the cable falling out, but what does that have to do with the usb cover? I looked it up on YouTube and I understand that the cover slides open to access the usb port but how does that hold the cable in place? Does your cable still fall out and if not then what did you do to resolve it?
Thanks for such a prompt response by the way.
I sent him the link to this thread and I'm certain that he'll stop by and read your comments.

You need to slide the usb cover all the way (until it snaps into place) over for the connector to fully attach itself.

correct, if it doesn't click , the plug won't fit securely and stay put

The cover easily gets stuck at 90% open. If you don't posh hard to push it the last 10%, cords won't stay in very well.

tysj said:
You need to slide the usb cover all the way (until it snaps into place) over for the connector to fully attach itself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
JacenSolo2001 said:
correct, if it doesn't click , the plug won't fit securely and stay put
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
He sent me a text
Just read the forum and the response... I tried everythig... USB cover couldn't open futher .. Even inspected the pin design on the male and female connectors with a magnifying glass .. Kept coming out .. Even on the second phone.. I wanted so bad for the phone to work .. It fit my need 200% .. .. just charger issue let me down
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

You need to slide the cover to you hear it snap. Simple.

Hah alright let me break out my DSLR to take a picture that you buddy can match up to how open my phone port currently is.
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Also only the micro USB cable that comes with the phone fits nicely, the other cables I have tried are iffy at best.

DanteDrac said:
Hah alright let me break out my DSLR to take a picture that you buddy can match up to how open my phone port currently is.
Also only the micro USB cable that comes with the phone fits nicely, the other cables I have tried are iffy at best.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Alright. I will pass this along and see if I get get his ass back to the store to get that phone again. Perhaps he just needs to try a little harder (or workout more). Thanks for the input guys. Perhaps I'll have to drive to an AT&T store to check out a model for myself to get an idea of how difficult it is. Curious, is it something that needs to be broken-in or is it supposed to be that damn difficult? Rhetorical question actually.

After I slammed it open just a hand full of times it slides very smoothly but will still actually lock closed.
Though tell him to keep in mind only certain Micro USB cables with fit in well. I had a spare nokia and some other generic one that while it would connect and such it would not actually stay in well.

DanteDrac said:
After I slammed it open just a hand full of times it slides very smoothly but will still actually lock closed.
Though tell him to keep in mind only certain Micro USB cables with fit in well. I had a spare nokia and some other generic one that while it would connect and such it would not actually stay in well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm pretty sure that he was using the one that came with it.

Dante, would you mind posting a pic (yours is so clear... better than my point and shoot could do) of it being in the "open but not all the way" position?
I had the same exact problem and yea, if you don't SNAP the cover open then the charger won't fit in there well.

Is he using the cable that came with the phone? I bought some Belkin Micro USB cables and the rubber around the connector was too big and wouldn't allow the USB cable to connect all the way down into the phone. I had to take the cables back. I'm waiting on some that supposedly fit the captivate that I bought on Ebay.

radi0chik said:
Is he using the cable that came with the phone? I bought some Belkin Micro USB cables and the rubber around the connector was too big and wouldn't allow the USB cable to connect all the way down into the phone. I had to take the cables back. I'm waiting on some that supposedly fit the captivate that I bought on Ebay.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought some $1.09 or whatever Blackberry cables on Amazon... They work just fine.
Granted I have a Prime membership so my shipping was free though.

TexUs said:
Dante, would you mind posting a pic (yours is so clear... better than my point and shoot could do) of it being in the "open but not all the way" position?
I had the same exact problem and yea, if you don't SNAP the cover open then the charger won't fit in there well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No problem. In the bottom picture it was charging but would fall out easy just like the OPs friend was running into.

That's because the slider cover isn't open all the way. The "bump" should be all the way against the edge of the opening. That picture has the rubber bit of the connector hitting the slide cover and no wonder it doesn't connect. Push that slide over all the way and it'll fit.

The problem is that the bevel that makes the Captivate look so cool plus the deeper recess of the female socket prevents square-end connectors from inserting fully.
The Samsung cable has more exposed metal and less plastic than most Micro USB cables, but you can make most any of the Micro USB cables you already own fit perfectly, though they might then be looser in other phones (not likely, most female ends on phones aren't recessed).
You can do what I did. I took a sharp pocket knife (X-acto or box cutter will also work) and trimmed down about 1-2mm of plastic on the "bottom" side of the cable, at a 45 degree angle.
Old cable end looked like this from the side: USB CABLE--|_|-- />phone
Trimmed plastic looks like this from the side: USB CABLE--|_/-- />phone
Fits like a charm, can actually dangle the phone by the cable now, when before it would just about fall out if you looked at it funny.

Croak said:
Fits like a charm, can actually dangle the phone by the cable now, when before it would just about fall out if you looked at it funny.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LOLOL.
but the x-acto idea worked perfectly! thanks

radi0chik said:
That's because the slider cover isn't open all the way. The "bump" should be all the way against the edge of the opening. That picture has the rubber bit of the connector hitting the slide cover and no wonder it doesn't connect. Push that slide over all the way and it'll fit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Read the post fully please. I was posting picture at the request of another member on what it would look like plugged in with the slide not fully open.

Custom DIY Dock for phones with cases or extended batteries

If you found this helpful don't forget to hit the thank you button!
Update 18Jan2011: I was not 100% happy with the way the dock looked, it did not looked well finished and was not very smooth. the plastic is actually very hard to sand, it would take some serious time doing it by hand and with a sander or dremel the plastic heats up to much and melts. The perfect solution is to add plaster, I had some in the garage and you probably do too. This was easy to do, just cake some plaster all around your dock, make sure that you only put a thin layer on the part where the phone will sit, you don't want to change the shape of that. after it dries take some sand paper to it and make it baby butt smooth. After getting it the way you want grab a damp paper towel and clean all the dust off, I also found that this does a good job getting rid of some hard to reach imperfections that sand paper could not. Once the dock is all clean its ready to be painted, don't forget to tape off the micro sd plug.
I am really satisfy with the way the dock looks now, here is a pic of it.
the only down side to this is that if you drop it, you will most likely chip off the plaster so keep it safe. If you guys have any ideas as to something better I could of used let me know because I will be making another dock for the second fascinate in the house.
After adding plaster
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Hello everyone, I will attempt to give a step by step instruction on how to make your own custom dock. It does not matter if you have a case (any) or an extended battery this method will work for you.
This is not the cheapest method, or the easiest or the fastest or the safest and the dock wont look as good as the OEM dock, but at the end you will have a dock that fits your phone perfectly and that is what really counts.
Materials
1- AMACO Friendly Plastic Pellets, the 4.4 oz bottle prob has enough for this project but its $12.5 and you will need to pay for shipping (on amazon). I think the best deal out there is the 28 oz bottle, it has a lot more than your going to need but after you realize what you can do with this stuff you will be glad you got the bigger bottle. here is the link Amazon.com: AMACO Friendly Plastic Pellets, 28-Ounce, Ivory: Kitchen & Dining
2- Plastic wrap. You will need to wrap your phone and case to protect it against hot plastic and water.
3- Pot, stove, water.
4- Small chopping board or something else thats flat, to flatten the soft plastic.
5- Cooking thermometer, to measure the temp of the water.
6- Micro usb cable, if you will not be using the OEM usb cable make sure that your computer recognizes the phone, some usb cables don't work for some reason. I made the mistake of not checking and the cable i bought on ebay does not work with my laptop, not a prob for me because dock will be in bedroom.
7- Cold water in a bowl.
8- Dremel tool with sanding attachment to sand plastic. If you don’t have the dremel or something similar its going to be a challenge to put details on your mold.
9- Spray paint of desired color (optional)
Guide
1- Read the instructions on how to use the plastic pellets. I am not responsible for any damage you do to yourself or your phone. You will be dealing with hot water, you can burn yourself or get your phone wet if you’re not careful.
2- Fill the pot with water and bring to a temp between 140 F and 150 F.
3- Get your phone ready, turn off your phone and take the battery out. You will need to protect your phone form hot plastic and a little bit of water. I suggest you wrap your phone with plastic wrap (look in the kitchen) then put the case on and wrap it again. Don't over wrap because this would add bulk to your phone and it will change its size.
4- Plug in the micro usb cable to your phone.
5- By now the water should be hot enough, check the temp and drop some plastic pellets in, enough for plastic to cover the micro usb cable plug to the phone. The pellets should turn clear when they are ready to be molded. I did not have a thermometer so I just had the water below the boiling point. the water should hot but not enough to burn you if you were to dip your finger for a sec or 2.
6- Take a spoon and scoop out the plastic, start molding the plastic around the usb connection, make sure to press in plastic in between the plug and the case, this would make a sort of key so when you slide your phone in it will only fit one way, this will prevent any damage to the usb during normal use.
7- Let the plastic cool, you will notice that it will start to turn white again. It should take about 10 mins for it to be stable enough for you to unplug it and put it under cold water. It is very important to make the usb part of the dock first, if you try to make the rest of the dock first in my opinion is harder to get the usb part later.
8- Drop some more pellets in the hot water, enough to make the cradle part of the mold like in the picture bellow.
Once the pellets are ready take them out and roll them into a ball, grab the chopping board and press the ball to flatten it. Make sure to put plastic wrap in between to prevent the soft plastic to stick.
9- Plug in the micro usb and make sure the molded plastic fits. place your phone the on top of the flat soft plastic. This step is one of the hardest. You need to mold the plastic around the left side of the phone by the volume rocker. This is important because it will create a sort of track for you to slide you phone in. Also keep in mind that you will want the 3.5mm audio jack and the cameras uncover. Keep molding it around the back of the phone and on to the plastic of the usb plug. Don’t worry if there is a lot of extra plastic you will be able to but the excess with some scissors but try to and smooth as possible this will make it look nicer at the end.
10- Let the plastic cool on your phone, this will guarantee and exact fit, don’t try to get it off your phone or you might end up bending or twisting the plastic. After about 10 mins it should be cool enough to get off your phone without bending. Run in though cold water to finish cooling it off. You should end up with something similar to the picture above but with a lot of excess plastic, start cutting all the extra until you have the basic shape you will want, again remember that you might want the audio jack or camera uncovered.
11- Start sanding all the sharp edges and making the mold look the way you want it, I rounded all the corners and made it a curvy look. It’s up to you. Also make it look smooth, focus on the front of the mold and not the back as that will probably be covered. A good technique is to dip in the mold in hot water for a few seconds. the mold should be tacky but not soft. Start rubbing your hand trying to buff out all the imperfections. Make sure the mold still fits on your phone, is very easy to mess it up.
12- Once your happy with the way your cradle looks is time to find what is going to stand on. There are many things you can use, you can even mold yourself a stand. I wanted it to be heavy that way there was no chance of the phone tipping over or sliding around easily on my nightstand. I could not find anything around the house that was the right weigh or size. I ended up finding a rock on my back yard that had the right characteristics, it had 2 flat sides to I knew I could work with it.
13- I used the rock as the stand. I molded plastic all around the rock making the flat sides flatter and made sure it would not wobble. Again make it look nice, and smooth.
14- Once your happy with the way the cradle and the stand look is time to put them together. Melt some plastic, enough to cover the parts of the cradle and stand that will be touching, you will use it as glue. Dip the stand and the cradle to make them tacky. Put the melted plastic on the stand where it will be connected to the cradle. Press the pieces together and hold it for a min or two, then run it through cold water. Your almost done!
15- Make the newly added plastic smooth and put some finishing touches to the dock, your prepping it for painting.
16- Paint the dock your desire color. Make sure not to paint the usb connection you might clog it.
You’re DONE!!!!
ENJOY YOUR NEW DOCK!!
If you found this helpful don't forget to hit the thank you button!
if you have any questions just ask
here is all the pics i took

I didn't read through it yet, but from the looks of it looks very nice. I dont have a use for it. However, i know many will.
Good job.

thanks, I do love it so far very functional.

Very novel idea, and good use of moldable plastic, very nicely written tutorial! Props!
I could see this being a nice way to have an Audio AND charging dock for a car though. Build in an audio cable as well, and buy a universal phone mount that has a removable phone holder (many do, check out semsons.com ) - mold your "dock" to the mount without the phone holder, and voila, instant car dock with audio and charging capabilities. I might give this a go sometime.
However, I would suggest that just getting the Verizon / OEM kickstand case, as a viable/easier alternative for a desk cradle - having the kickstand is like having a dock built into the phone - and IMHO it's also the best case around for our devices (and one of the best kickstand cases for any devices ever). You can get Samsung/OEM charging cords, just like stock with the funky connector, off ebay in 4' and 6' lengths for just a few $'s. I have one plugged into every one of my PC's and cars.

So does it go into the dock app automatically?
Sent from my sch-i500 Showcase using XDA app

Protonus said:
Very novel idea, and good use of moldable plastic, very nicely written tutorial! Props!
I could see this being a nice way to have an Audio AND charging dock for a car though. Build in an audio cable as well, and buy a universal phone mount that has a removable phone holder (many do, check out semsons.com ) - mold your "dock" to the mount without the phone holder, and voila, instant car dock with audio and charging capabilities. I might give this a go sometime.
However, I would suggest that just getting the Verizon / OEM kickstand case, as a viable/easier alternative for a desk cradle - having the kickstand is like having a dock built into the phone - and IMHO it's also the best case around for our devices (and one of the best kickstand cases for any devices ever). You can get Samsung/OEM charging cords, just like stock with the funky connector, off ebay in 4' and 6' lengths for just a few $'s. I have one plugged into every one of my PC's and cars.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I thought about that before, I decided to build the dock because I wanted to stop messing with wires. the dock just sits there ready to go, all I have to do is slide my phone. best example, the other night I realized I forgot to dock my phone, it was one of those times where you were about to fall sleep and you realize you forgot something, normally you will have to fing the cord and try to plug it in to your phone, in the dark is not the easiest thing to do specially if all you want to do is go back to sleep, with out even looking I reached over grabbed my phone and docked it, that simple. I really like not having to grab the usb cord and plug it to my phone. to me that is worth the effort.
I do agree with you that the case with the kickstand is one of the best, too bad I already spend 20 on my seidio case.

elijahblake said:
So does it go into the dock app automatically?
Sent from my sch-i500 Showcase using XDA app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sorry i didnt get back to you sooner, kinda busy these last couple of days.
to answer your question, no it does not go to the clock app or dock app, if anyone knows what I could to to make it do that please let me know. thanks

jonagpa said:
sorry i didnt get back to you sooner, kinda busy these last couple of days.
to answer your question, no it does not go to the clock app or dock app, if anyone knows what I could to to make it do that please let me know. thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
there's several people trying to figure this out... I remember one was even going to buy a dock and tear it apart, never heard anything else about that...
Someone tried magnets, but said that didn't work..
So it looks like it's probably something built into the actual dock..
Guess you may could get someone to write an app that makes the desk app auto open when your phone is plugged in and tilted in an angle???? (prob only work if rooted though) I'm talking about stuff way over my head, so..

The official dock probably has one of the pins on the usb connector shorted out or connected to the 5v power to tell the phone that it's docked...
Sent from my Samsung Fascinate

Pfredd said:
The official dock probably has one of the pins on the usb connector shorted out or connected to the 5v power to tell the phone that it's docked...
Sent from my Samsung Fascinate
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
that's exactly what I thought but with one having the OEM dock its hard to tell, if someone that owns a dock and has a multimeter could they check continuity between pins and give us the info we might be able to figure it out.

This is awesome, and congrats! You've been picked up by xda and your idea/thread announced on their twitter feed!
I don't have a sammy phone but have tossed around similar ideas for a while know. I made a car dock for my G1 out of kydex some time back. I was able to form it around my phone for a secure fit and ease of removing it by pressing a tab, but had to plug the usb in after it was mounted. Ofcourse the other problem I had was not being able to slide up the physical keyboard.
I toyed with the idea of using a piece of thin but strong spring steel to have sticking out from the tab are to fit between the keyboard and display. This never went any farther than an idea.
However, you have reknewed my interest! I could make a mold similar to yours, although flipped 180 degrees. Have the front of the mold make a J shape under my send, home, trackball, back, and end key, and have the part under the send key wrap to the left and up. Like a J. The base could be formed to follow the shape of the sdcard cover and then folow forward to just before the volume key cutout. Do basicly yhe same to the top area, shaping out the camera button.
This should form a contoures socket for the phone to slip into. The shape and fit should prevent it from vibrating loose in travel, and would permit me to flip up the screen for physical keys access! This could also work on the droid 1 and 2, lg ally, and about any other phone with a keyboard.
Awesome post, thread and idea. I tip my hat to you sir!!!

jsp254 said:
This is awesome, and congrats! You've been picked up by xda and your idea/thread announced on their twitter feed!
This should form a contoures socket for the phone to slip into. The shape and fit should prevent it from vibrating loose in travel, and would permit me to flip up the screen for physical keys access! This could also work on the droid 1 and 2, lg ally, and about any other phone with a keyboard.
Awesome post, thread and idea. I tip my hat to you sir!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, I cant believe it was picked up by xda, now with all the views surely we can get someone that has the OEM dock for the fascinate to figure out how it knows when is docked so we can auto launch the dock app.
@ jsp254 looking forward to see your car dock, that's actually my next project so if you have any tips let me know.
I will also like for anyone that attempts this to post their tips and if they added any new ideas.

You rule!!!
Great idea!!!

roberto188 said:
One word....GHETTO!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't mind constructive criticism, but don't make those kind of comments here, it doesn't add any value to the thread. I also stated on the guide that you won't end up with a dock of OEM quality.

roberto188 said:
One word....GHETTO!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think it's pretty cool, a lot of work and I don't think I'm going to try it but's it's a very good DIY. How about showing us something better...

The problem I see with the car dock, even in Chicago it gets pretty hot in the summer, and inside a car it could get to 110-120 degrees, would that melt the plastic, or at least deform it enough to have to redo it? If not, then I will definitely try it, as I got an extended battery for my EVO and don't have a car holder anymore.
Great tutorial though, I might have to try it anyways.

thenuge said:
The problem I see with the car dock, even in Chicago it gets pretty hot in the summer, and inside a car it could get to 110-120 degrees, would that melt the plastic, or at least deform it enough to have to redo it? If not, then I will definitely try it, as I got an extended battery for my EVO and don't have a car holder anymore.
Great tutorial though, I might have to try it anyways.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's a good point, have not tried it in hot weather (its cold here in mass) however it should not deform until it reaches a temp of at least 140f°.

thenuge said:
The problem I see with the car dock, even in Chicago it gets pretty hot in the summer, and inside a car it could get to 110-120 degrees, would that melt the plastic, or at least deform it enough to have to redo it? If not, then I will definitely try it, as I got an extended battery for my EVO and don't have a car holder anymore.
Great tutorial though, I might have to try it anyways.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
wow and I thought it got HOT in Mississippi...

elijahblake said:
wow and I thought it got HOT in Mississippi...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it doesn't get that hot outside in chicago, but greenhouse affect is a killer.
I know it is workable at 140f, but will it deform at 110 under slight pressure, like holding the phone? It doesn't have to melt to be a problem, just sag a little bit or change so the phone doesn't fit.

thenuge said:
it doesn't get that hot outside in chicago, but greenhouse affect is a killer.
I know it is workable at 140f, but will it deform at 110 under slight pressure, like holding the phone? It doesn't have to melt to be a problem, just sag a little bit or change so the phone doesn't fit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think I am gonna set my oven to 110° and leave a piece of the plastic there for 10 or 15 min, I'll let you guys know what happens
Update: It seems like I can't set my oven to a temp lower that 170* so I cant actually test this my self, maybe someone else can.

Sony Smartwatch MN2 DIY USB cable

Hi All,
I have this Sony smartwatch but lost my cable. I am looking for the pinlayout of the cable. Is there someone who can help me on the pin layout.
The signals for the pins om the watch like Vcc, Gnd etc
or the pin mapping from the usb connector to the watch connector.
I hope someone can help me on this.
Sent from my Iconia A500 using xda app-developers app

Okay, I found the answer in some other thread. Will try this out tomorow.
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USB male:
Pin
1 - VCC,
2 - D+,
3 - D-,
4 - GND
On Sony plug:
According to this: Holding the cable as in the picture, with the contacts facing you and the cable leading downwards,
Pin 4 is the left pin - GND
Pin 3 - D-
Pin 2 - D+
Pin 1 is the right pin - V+
Sent from my HTC Vision using xda app-developers app

The image for the connector here.
Sent from my HTC Vision using xda app-developers app

hi, i have also lost my smartwatch cable and have tried ordering a new one of sonymobile.com and when i placed the order i received no confirmation and was instantly redirected to the home...i had almost given up when i luckily stumbled across this thread,however i am a complete noob and would very much like to know what i will need and how to get my smartwatch working again! many thanks!

Hi, I made the cable and was able to charge my smartwatch. I will make a picture of my home made cable and post it here.
All you need is an old usb cable som small plastic, two pins and a soldering iron. It comes to connecting the right wires to the right pins.

Request
mvturnho said:
Hi, I made the cable and was able to charge my smartwatch. I will make a picture of my home made cable and post it here.
All you need is an old usb cable som small plastic, two pins and a soldering iron. It comes to connecting the right wires to the right pins.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please can u share how u did??

In the image my DIY cable.
I used a small pièce of plastic with pins melted though and hot glue to fix of all.
The cable is an old Mouse cable.

Not sure if anyone is looking for the official Sony cable but last time I checked it was available on the Verizon website. I think it was under $20...

DIP IC Socket and a piece of PCB

I lost my original...found a pin layout online from a photo of the board off a disassembled smartwatch. Looks like you guys already have the pinout covered though. What I did to make my cable was I used staples. I straightened out 4 ordinary office staples, bent one end up at a 90° angle...just a few millimeters. Then I used some JB stick (JB weld in putty form...you can buy it at your local hardware store, auto parts store, or Walmart). It hardens in minutes, is hard as steel, and most importantly is non-conductive. I painstakingly arranged the four staples on a bit of the jb putty, put another small layer of the putty over the top (so just the tips if the staples were exposed as well as a few millimeters of the other ends), and quickly wedged the whole thing into my Smartwatch. I pressed the spring clip down using it as a mold, then quickly and carefully pulled it out so it did not adhere to the watch. 5 minutes later the connector was hard as a rock. I then soldered my bare end of my USB cable to the staple ends, put some heat shrink, and dropped a little ball of solder on each of the 4 protruding bent staple tips at the other end of the connector. The 4 balls of solder now make nice shiny contact points to line up with the 4 terminals on the watch. Now I have a rock solid, professional looking diy charging cable. Been working for 4 months now no issues. Took me less than an hour for the whole project once I thought up the design.
Sent from my SPH-L900 using xda app-developers app

supersonic64126 said:
I lost my original...found a pin layout online from a photo of the board off a disassembled smartwatch. Looks like you guys already have the pinout covered though. What I did to make my cable was I used staples. I straightened out 4 ordinary office staples, bent one end up at a 90° angle...just a few millimeters. Then I used some JB stick (JB weld in putty form...you can buy it at your local hardware store, auto parts store, or Walmart). It hardens in minutes, is hard as steel, and most importantly is non-conductive. I painstakingly arranged the four staples on a bit of the jb putty, put another small layer of the putty over the top (so just the tips if the staples were exposed as well as a few millimeters of the other ends), and quickly wedged the whole thing into my Smartwatch. I pressed the spring clip down using it as a mold, then quickly and carefully pulled it out so it did not adhere to the watch. 5 minutes later the connector was hard as a rock. I then soldered my bare end of my USB cable to the staple ends, put some heat shrink, and dropped a little ball of solder on each of the 4 protruding bent staple tips at the other end of the connector. The 4 balls of solder now make nice shiny contact points to line up with the 4 terminals on the watch. Now I have a rock solid, professional looking diy charging cable. Been working for 4 months now no issues. Took me less than an hour for the whole project once I thought up the design.
Sent from my SPH-L900 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you put some picture?

Can anyone please give me the distance between the pins as I have a smartwatch coming with missing usb cable and I would like to make a cable ready for when it arrives?
Thanks

Got my watch and my first attempt is a no go, can anyone help with the following:
Do the pins on the watch need to be pushed down?
Is it only pins 1 + 4 that need connecting?
When the watch is completley dead does it take a while while on charge to see anything happening, I connect my cable and dont see any sign its charging??
Also taking apart a USB extension cable seems to be the perfect solution as the pins are the right way round to connect to the watch once you take apart the metal housing.
Please help
Sent from my GT-N7100 using XDA Premium HD app

I have my cable stop working and I make a simple one from a flat USB laying around. I try to buy one from Sony but it is out of order and was $22 with shipping. I am glad I found this cable and now I have-it for free only 15- 20 min of work.
Here are some pictures.

Wouldn't you need all 4 pins for firmware updating?

Kolma said:
Wouldn't you need all 4 pins for firmware updating?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes you need 4 pins if you want to upgrade the firmware but I think there will not be more updates for this smartwatch
because Sony will release the new SmartWatch 2 soon.

Have problem with my mn2 charging charging, it would just not charge, not sure if the problem is in cable or watch it self, did the cleaning of charging ports as mentioned in many places over the net but no success, any help will be welcomed.

supersonic64126 said:
I lost my original...found a pin layout online from a photo of the board off a disassembled smartwatch. Looks like you guys already have the pinout covered though. What I did to make my cable was I used staples. I straightened out 4 ordinary office staples, bent one end up at a 90° angle...just a few millimeters. Then I used some JB stick (JB weld in putty form...you can buy it at your local hardware store, auto parts store, or Walmart). It hardens in minutes, is hard as steel, and most importantly is non-conductive. I painstakingly arranged the four staples on a bit of the jb putty, put another small layer of the putty over the top (so just the tips if the staples were exposed as well as a few millimeters of the other ends), and quickly wedged the whole thing into my Smartwatch. I pressed the spring clip down using it as a mold, then quickly and carefully pulled it out so it did not adhere to the watch. 5 minutes later the connector was hard as a rock. I then soldered my bare end of my USB cable to the staple ends, put some heat shrink, and dropped a little ball of solder on each of the 4 protruding bent staple tips at the other end of the connector. The 4 balls of solder now make nice shiny contact points to line up with the 4 terminals on the watch. Now I have a rock solid, professional looking diy charging cable. Been working for 4 months now no issues. Took me less than an hour for the whole project once I thought up the design.
Sent from my SPH-L900 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
SIr good day!, I've lost my cable charge for my sony smartwatch, i want to know how you made an improvised one. do you have any pictures on how you make it in 4-staple wires?
Thanks!
-tony

about charger u made
aseeme555076 said:
DIP IC Socket and a piece of PCB
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
can u please tell or explain me how to make a charger plz plz beg ur leg

aseeme555076 said:
Can you put some picture?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lol, sooo apparently this guy doesn't either know how to use his keyboard... or he thinks he's to good to post a picture of his little "so called charger he created", or he's just plain ol bull****tin everyone about this whole idea he mentioned for someone to be THAT detailed about something... i think he was just thinkin about it in his head and didnt really MAKE the charger.... thats why my friends, you se NO picture...... a year later.

[Q] Broke a small golden connector on MB while replacing screen

Hi,
I was replacing the screen on my HTC ONE X AT&T and I had to diassemble it a few times because the replacement screen was no good and I thought I did something wrong, and became impatient and broke a small golden Connector on the motherboard.
It is the spring connector on the right hand side (while the phone is screen down), the bottom one.
I glued it with some adhesive temporarily.
My question is:
HOW do I fix this?
Can I weld it in place?
Can I get a replacement part? if yes, how is this called and where can i get it?
Please help, i am not giving up on 250 bucks i spent already.
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Video: http://youtu.be/2IAWi_nnGzw
Thanks (and be careful while purchasing screen from China)

Post a pic of the back shell ( the locations are diff than the international). You may or may not be in luck. the pin you didnt break is ground. If the trace is still good on the broken pin then it is real easy to just solder a thin wire from the bent pin to the pad (its a wifi trick for the international version). You may also be in luck if its not a good feature. You only have to worry about the 3g. lte, and wifi antenna. If its the near field antenna then it might not matter to you.
Like i said post picks of the back shell so we can see what that connects too. Hell it might just be a shielding (the back is all plastic) and you will be fine.

nightanole said:
Post a pic of the back shell ( the locations are diff than the international). You may or may not be in luck. the pin you didnt break is ground. If the trace is still good on the broken pin then it is real easy to just solder a thin wire from the bent pin to the pad (its a wifi trick for the international version). You may also be in luck if its not a good feature. You only have to worry about the 3g. lte, and wifi antenna. If its the near field antenna then it might not matter to you.
Like i said post picks of the back shell so we can see what that connects too. Hell it might just be a shielding (the back is all plastic) and you will be fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok so these are the pics for the back shell, the phone is AT&T but i am from Israel so I don't think the LTE technology will matter that much:
My brother is a Electronics Engineer and I asked if he can weld the thing to the mother board, and he said it's a risk cause the welding machine we have is cheap and some parts can't handle a 350 degree heat or something.
What do you think?
Also, any chance i can get this part somewhere? buy it?
Thanks!!

MosesTheTool said:
Ok so these are the pics for the back shell, the phone is AT&T but i am from Israel so I don't think the LTE technology will matter that much:
My brother is a Electronics Engineer and I asked if he can weld the thing to the mother board, and he said it's a risk cause the welding machine we have is cheap and some parts can't handle a 350 degree heat or something.
What do you think?
Also, any chance i can get this part somewhere? buy it?
Thanks!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I hope you mean solder and not weld :\
Sent from my Nexus 4

On Google Translate "Solder" and "Weld" mean the same thing.
But it's pretty obvious what I mean.... Don't you think?

Good news and bad news, bad news is you broke the tab to your bluetooth antenna. Good news is you can weld (solder weld that is) the tabs to the pads without damage. They are not chips so they can handle 325-375c just fine.
Im a electronics process engineer, so my job is to figure out how to get the chips on the board with the least amount of damage.
1. tin the tab of the broke (or both if you want to solder both tabs) pin
2. tin the broke/glued pin (hope that the trace/connection is still good)
3. tin both ends of the wire you will use jumper the pad to the pin. I LOVE silver plated teflon jacket 30 gauge. It can take some abuse.
4. solder weld the wire to the pad with the soldering iron on.
5. solder weld the wire to the pin with the soldering iron off. You will have to be very quick (5 sec window on most). since both peices have been pretinned this should be quick and easy.
That should be it. The only semi tricky part is the flux. If you use rosin core you can leave it on if you didnt go nutts. If you used no clean flux you just have to hope you heated it enough to neutralize it. If you used clear organic core flux, well the stuff is conductive as hell.. and you have to clean it off with water.

nightanole Dude, you are awesome.
I will let my brother look into your electronics mumbo-jumbo because it looks like Chinese to me, but he will figure that shee out.
Where did you get the info that it is the BT antenna?, I am searching every where for some technical PDFs for repairing and mapping HTC ONE X and can't find jack.
Thanks again, really appreciate it.

I broke the same tab, I even lost the tab but just used some solder to stick out enough. It was actually the wifi antenna connection that broke. after soldering I get enough wifi reception to the point where it is not a problem. good luck

idealz said:
I broke the same tab, I even lost the tab but just used some solder to stick out enough. It was actually the wifi antenna connection that broke. after soldering I get enough wifi reception to the point where it is not a problem. good luck
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wi-fi, Bluetooth, doesn't matter as long as it is fixable. I was really upset with myself for breaking it.
Thanks :good:

Can anyone advise how this golden spring is called? Rather tech language so I can find a replacement.
also maybe where can I find a replacement??
Thanks
Sent from my HTC One X using xda app-developers app

MosesTheTool said:
Can anyone advise how this golden spring is called? Rather tech language so I can find a replacement.
also maybe where can I find a replacement??
Thanks
Sent from my HTC One X using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its technically a spring loaded pin connector. Though i couldnt find one like it that wasnt super long. My best guess would be to try to rob one out of a headphone jack or dc power jack.
If you where really creative you might just be able to gut a usb socket and bend the pin in half. The best bet is just to solder the thing, as the international versions are horrible with the wifi and soldering is the fix.

It would probably work great if I solder it with a wire. But I really don't want to limit the disassembly of the thing - who knows how many more cr*p chinese screen they will send me that will not work.
Soldering a spring that is similar to the original one seems like the best long term general solution.
Thanks for helping, I couldn't find a replacement for this anywhere, I guess it's unusual for people to try and fix it without owning a lab.
I thought about buying a broken MB but spending 50 bucks for that little spring is insane.
I'll try figure out which parts from those you listed will be closest to the real deal and give it a shot.
Thanks again
Sent from my HTC One X using xda app-developers app

You dont have to buy something for the htc one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/US-HTC-HD2-...le-Ribbon-Connector-Replacement-/151006454298
This guy comes with what looks like 2 compatible pins for $7 shipped. Just look around for htc boards, all their phones use the dumb "hey lets put pogo pins to hold antennas to the back case" tech that sucks.

That part doesn't have that pin. But I went to a cell repair shop and he gave me an htc part that has pins similar to what I need. Now I only have to solder it Somehow.
Thanksss
Sent from my HTC One X using xda app-developers app

Can someone point me to where the GND connector is? Is it the one above the broken pin in the original post?
I recently had my screen replaced it periodically goes crazy. Based on what I've searched what I believe is happening is that static builds up in the screen (due to a poor grounding) which simulates someone touching the screen near the bottom moving side to side very quickly. It is particularly bad when it is plugged in which further leads me to believe it is a grounding issue.
There is a thread on the HTC Sensation where they have modded the GND terminal for a better connection to the case - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1239238
I have not been able to find one for the HTC ONE XL and was hoping someone could point me in the right direction. I figured I'd post here to reference the OP's photos of the motherboard.

Magnetic MicroUSB Cable Wireless Charging Support QC 2.0

Like to share with you this PLESON® Premium Magnetic cable Micro USB Cables(Detachable Magnetic Micro USB) High Speed USB 2.4 A Male to Micro B Sync and Charge Cables with LED Status Display
which cost less than $20 @Amazon.com
I have been using this for my G4 instead of the Slow Qi Charging. Its supports QC 2.0 quick charging and its prevent your MicroUSB Slimport from wear and tear & Dust too.
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@rogconnect From where i can buy that battery charging stand?

w300mbps said:
@rogconnect From where i can buy that battery charging stand?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.amazon.com/Sinjimoru-Cha...TF8&qid=1446385494&sr=1-39&keywords=sinjimoru
내 LG G Flex 2 H959 사용 tapatalk에서 전송

I have a slim case on mine. Have you tried it with a case? Wondering if it still works correctly.

ZipLipZ said:
I have a slim case on mine. Have you tried it with a case? Wondering if it still works correctly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any case will work fine as long as the opening of the Micro USB port is wide enough for the adapter.
내 LG G4 H815 USA사용 tapatalk에서 전송

That's pretty cool. I found it on eBay for $4 a piece from China and ordered a couple. Thanks!

well i guess i need to do research earlier. i bot a slim case and i like it. but the open around the usb is only half inch. is there anything small like that? or i have to pass this toy?

Tikerz said:
That's pretty cool. I found it on eBay for $4 a piece from China and ordered a couple. Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
can you give me the link, please?

vinhphucng25 said:
can you give me the link, please?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Android-Mic...-1-Metal-Plug-for-Samsung-LG-HTC/371500874257

Tikerz said:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Android-Mic...-1-Metal-Plug-for-Samsung-LG-HTC/371500874257
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey there.
Did you manage to order from that seller? How is the quality of those cables?

zeoos said:
Hey there.
Did you manage to order from that seller? How is the quality of those cables?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, very good! I bought several of them. Great for kids tablets because if they don't shatter the screen, they break the charging port. The magnetic charging saves the port.

I ordered one of these cables a month ago from the eBay link in post #9 by Tiker above, it just arrived a few minutes ago and I have to say I'm a bit disappointed. The photos above (perhaps the one the OP got was a bit different from mine) show that the microUSB portion of the cable sits flush with the bottom of the Flex 2, or at least the photos shown make it seem that way. Of course the one in the OP was from a name brand (PLESON) and not a totally generic piece of crap like the one I got from the eBay seller so please note this entire post is a rant about the cheap one - the PLESON one is apparently "what this should have been" so, my comments below are about the cheap one from the eBay seller.
The one I got is too long in terms of how far it juts out from the Flex 2 as pictured (if you click these thumbnails you'll get the full size images so, be aware):
The cable itself seems to be of decent construction but that's about all I can say at this point. The microUSB aspect needs to be roughly one-half as long as it currently is to get it flush against the bottom of my Flex 2 - and yes it is most definitely pushed into the microUSB socket as far as it will physically go so no I'm not just lightly pushing it into place and complaining about it. It's obvious the one I got is a cheap one, you can tell much by looking at how badly the microUSB housing on the plug is: it's all dented and bent with a lot of non-smooth surface issues in the one picture above.
There's a possibility that each of these could be completely different; the OP's model appears to be pretty close to flush as already noted, but in my situation that's just not the case. I measured the length of the microUSB plug itself and it's 9/32" which is quite long indeed. It seems like the length should be ~3/16" which would make it damned near perfectly flush when inserted fully on any microUSB port out there.
This of course makes this cable and the magnetic aspect of the microUSB plug completely useless to me unfortunately. Another thing: the microUSB plug is so loose in my microUSB port that when I gently tug on the cable - hoping to cause it to separate as designed because it's held in place by that magnetic force - guess what happens? The whole thing comes unplugged from the phone but the microUSB plug stays attached to the cable because the magnet is just a bit too strong.
Oh well, it's not like I paid $30 for this or something, just about $4 shipped so, it's not worth going through the hassles of returning it to China for a refund. I'll keep it, might find some use for it at some point, who knows.
Another problem: the pogo pins in the cable end aren't fully "loose" on the one I got - in fact, one of the pins was half-stuck in position and not fully extended. I had to take a pair of forceps and pull it out to get it working properly again; my needle nose pliers were too thick to get a grip on it but the forceps worked fine - I highly recommend getting a decent pair of forceps if you're into working with small electronics components.
I fixed that issue and it does work but again the issue with the plug sticking out too far is the main one. It's such an amazingly simple idea but I suppose it's in the execution to get it right but then again I did choose to save some cash and I did buy from the eBay seller so, I'll take the blame on this in the long run.
Do I recommend this for anyone else? I would have to say no because you might end up getting one like mine where it just sticks out from the bottom of the Flex 2 way too much - on mine it's literally 1/8" out from the phone. The press images in the eBay ad show it completely flush against a device it's used with and that's just not the case. microUSB ports are standardized so they should all be exactly the same depth from port end to deepest insertion point and this plug on the cable is just about 1/8" too long honestly but it's following the standard I suppose. Wish I could just cut it to length but that would end up destroying it entirely so that's not a workable solution.
Great idea, crappy execution would be my opinion. Had high hopes for this to save wear and tear on my microUSB port(s) as I'd probably use it on my next device when I replace this Flex 2 but, as it is I can't make use of it in general so it'll just go in a drawer till some reason to pull it out happens.
Buyer beware, that's my advice. The OP seems to be really happy with his/her cable(s) so that's nice, but I'm definitely not with mine. The pictures in the eBay ad technically aren't even the product I bought - the pictures show one (they're renders more than likely) with a 3/16" microUSB plug length which is of course spot on where it should be and not what I ended up getting.
Good luck...
ps
Note that the one I got from an eBay seller is not the same item that the OP got from Amazon and after looking at a review video of the one from Amazon (the PLESON brand one) it does apppear that those are using microUSB plugs that are definitely a bit shorter, not by much but enough to get the plug to sit as flush as it can against the device when inserted. It's quite possible (and likely) that the cheap POS I got from the eBay seller is one that just doesn't have any quality control and uses microUSB plugs that are, as stated, just too damned long.
My issues are with this cheapy version, spending more money on the obviously higher quality one from the Amazon seller (at 3-4x the cost) will probably be much more useful to anyone interested.

@br0adband I am still using it on all my devices and G Flex 2 is still working fine charging at QC 2.0. I also have another pair by Yootech too which cost $15 from Amazon. Too bad I have the 6p and 5X now which uses Type C ,they don't have any of this type yet. On the safe I always order from Amazon because of the easy returns policy.
내 LG G Flex 2 H959 사용 tapatalk에서 전송

If you have a moment to do it, can you measure the length of the microUSB plug itself, this is what I mean specifically:
Thanks...

br0adband said:
If you have a moment to do it, can you measure the length of the microUSB plug itself, this is what I mean specifically:
Thanks...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
9/32 is about 0.28 inches.
Mine is about 0.206 inches
Sent from Nexus 5X N Preview 3