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HTC Windows Phone 8X Screen Repair Take Apart Guide

The RepairsUniverse team has put together a take apart repair guide for replacing various parts on your Windows Phone HTC 8X. In this guide you will learn the steps to properly take your HTC smartphone apart safely. Repair nearly any internal component on your Windows Phone HTC 8X using this detailed repair guide.
This guide will help you to install the following Windows Phone HTC 8X part(s):
HTC Windows Phone 8X Touch Screen Digitizer Replacement
HTC Windows Phone 8X LCD Replacement
Tools required:
Safe open pry tool
Small Phillips Screwdriver
Adhesive strips
Windows Phone HTC 8X Screen Repair Guide:
You want to begin by applying heat to around the surface edges of the device for about 15-20 seconds on each side. You can use a hot blow dryer or a heat gun.
Next you will need to use the safe open pry tool and begin separating the screen assembly from the frame of the device as shown below.
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Once you have properly separated the front of the phone from the device you will need to disconnect 3 Flex ribbon connections that are holding the device together.
After these connections have been released the front screen assembly can be removed from the back housing frame of the device.
Next you will need to turn the screen assembly (screen facing down) with the mother board facing you.
Using a small Phillips screw driver, you can begin removing 12 screws from around the edges of the screen assembly.
Once these screws have been removed you can begin disconnecting the Flex ribbon cables and Antenna flex cables (5 total).
The LCD and the Touch screen digitizer are held in by a jaw connector that can be lifted to release the ribbon.
The two antenna flex cables can simply be pulled out and the Key pad flex cable is a pop connection that can be released using a safe open pry tool.
You can now remove the motherboard.
Once the motherboard has been removed you can remove the upper back frame.
Now that the back housing and mother board have been removed, you can release the second connections of the antenna flex cables.
There are 2 small flex ribbons that will need to be released on the left and right side on top of the green mainboard.
Next you want to move the vibrating motor (next to the camera) out of the way so you can remove the upper mainboard.
Next step is to remove the ear jack and ear piece speaker.
You can now remove the battery and once you have done so you will have one more antenna cable to release and remove.
Last step is to remove the charging connector and the home button from the upper part of the device.
You can now replace the damaged screen for the Windows Phone HTC 8X.
Notice:
Repairs Universe's guides are for*informational purposes only.

Super informative
Very informative guide. Thanks a lot.
Under required tools, adhesive strips are listed. What kind of adhesive is needed? Size of strip? & where should the adhesive be applied?
Know you have my thanks.

I have dne it
Hey,
I have completly teared down my 8X to fix the broken glass. Changed LCD+Glass Combo.
Worked for almost one day. now it just wont start up again :/
It vibrates by pressing power button

b14ckroses said:
Hey,
I have completly teared down my 8X to fix the broken glass. Changed LCD+Glass Combo.
Worked for almost one day. now it just wont start up again :/
It vibrates by pressing power button
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Was your battery low ? I've had pretty much the same problems - it turned out that the stock cable that cable with the phone was rubbish and the phone didn't charge up properly - the solution I came with was using a Nokia micro-usb cable - leave the phone to charge for 45-60 minutes and then try to turn it on if it doesn't do that automatically.

Hi. Can someone make motherboard pictures? I replaced screen but I lost idea how to connect coaxial cables.( got picture but i lost it)
Phone awaiting for being assembled to housing but I want avoid mistakes and tear it down again( hard job)
Or you know how to connect them maybe?

robdevil said:
Hi. Can someone make motherboard pictures? I replaced screen but I lost idea how to connect coaxial cables.( got picture but i lost it)
Phone awaiting for being assembled to housing but I want avoid mistakes and tear it down again( hard job)
Or you know how to connect them maybe?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, the attached picture is acurate. You appear to be missing the cage which secures the camera and boards in place. The 8x is designed with stacks. One board sits on top another, connected by two ribbons. Then those the lower charging board which is laid atop the lower portion of the device rests inside the back housing. It's really not complicated.
As you say, it's just very hard. Also the back housing is very tough to get flush. I advise using a case to minimize the slight elevation from digitizer to housing.
The long coax needs to be tucked underneath the ribbon and behind the gray prongs. The long coax should be nesting right alongside the length of the battery. This phone is a huge pain to fix. You should know that by now.

Any luck adding Wireless charging using this guide?

Or "bigger" battery ?

Origin of replacement difitizers and where to get replacement adhesive
Unfortunately, I am also amongst the unfortunate ones who have their 8X screen broken.
I decided to so a DIY repair, because I had success at doing such DIY replacements in the past on my previous HTC phone's. I am aware that it is quite difficult to work on the 8x though.
What I am concerned about is the quality of replacement parts. Where do these eBay suppliers get the replacement parts from anyway? I'm expecting to find a genuine, HTC manufactured lcd+digitizer combo with real Gorilla glass and same LCD panel, but heard that a lot of these replacements, even though sellers claim them to be genuine, are in fact inferior to the original parts, which really worries me. One of the sellers explained to me: "it is HTC manufactured OEM , but not with real gorilla glass" and then added "I am sorry, the supplier tell me the glass is not real gorilla. so I reply to you". There's no way I'm going to buy such a fake part.. Another seller, when asked, described his item: "Hi, this item is oem product make for HTC 8x. and used the original Material to assembly this item as the HTC product. of course i will test the item first and only the item work in good conditons then i will send it to my customer. Thank you!", but it still worries me - I'm not too confident the seller actually knows what OEM stands for.
Any ideas on this?
Also, as a side question, I was wondering, where do you get the replacement glue from? I heard they come in some strips.

so I got the mainboard out of the case, but I ripped a cable. I have attached a couple pics. could someone please tell me what ribbon I ripped and what I can do about it? or is it a loss? thanks. I attached two pics.

Hi guys!
I've just bought for cheap a HTC 8x. I've got it from a guy which tried to replace shattered glass ...no surprise LCD got also damaged during that.
So.
Now I'm sitting her with a disassembled phone and brand new digitizer and wondering - shall I keep it cheap and get just a new LCD or is I safer to go for preassembled set of LCD&digitizer? Is it difficult to put it together (is any glue necessary and, if yes, where it has to be placed) or its more like putting two LEGO blocks together?

mc_gee said:
Hi guys!
I've just bought for cheap a HTC 8x. I've got it from a guy which tried to replace shattered glass ...no surprise LCD got also damaged during that.
So.
Now I'm sitting her with a disassembled phone and brand new digitizer and wondering - shall I keep it cheap and get just a new LCD or is I safer to go for preassembled set of LCD&digitizer? Is it difficult to put it together (is any glue necessary and, if yes, where it has to be placed) or its more like putting two LEGO blocks together?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your best option is to use the LCD + Touch Screen Digitizer Assembly. You repair will go much smoother. If you were to try the other route you would have to use adhesive to attach the LCD to the Touch screen. Those with experience can do this quite well i'm sure. The only issues with it could be dust or possibly not having a flush fit after re-assembly.

I have been repairing phones for nearly 20 years. I have my own small one man shop and have litterally opened thousands of phones. This has got to be one of the worst I have ever opened. What a piece of crap design; HTC should be embarrassed. Of course most users don't know this, because they only buy for the look and functions, but this phone should be avoided at all costs. Taking the back off without breaking it is a challenge for most. But separating the LCD/Dig. assembly from the b frame is one of the hardest ever. Once again, HTC feels they need to put far too much adhesive on their phones. Nuclear war would not separate these parts. And for Repairs Universe(Who I respect alot) to suggest the digitizer can be separated from the LCD when it is fuzed, is a joke, and borderline negligent.
I never like to go above 65 degrees centigrade(150 F) on my scientific hotplate, but for this i had to turn it up to 72, and it still took me forever with alot of reheats.
My best advice is to never get this phone, or work on it. It's a customer problem waiting to happen. However, if you do, try and find it with the b-frame attached...at least then you only have to worry about the absurd battery/back cover...what a POS!
---------- Post added at 02:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:36 PM ----------
lokeycmos said:
so I got the mainboard out of the case, but I ripped a cable. I have attached a couple pics. could someone please tell me what ribbon I ripped and what I can do about it? or is it a loss? thanks. I attached two pics.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
See you posted this awhile ago, so this may not help you anymore. You pulled the charge port PCB up with the MoBo and LCD/Dig assembly. In taking apart this phone, the entire charge port board(PCB) stays down and does NOT come up with the original lift.
A few other tips. Do NOT use the old adhessive as some yahoo on youtube suggested. This is that black spongey adhesive HTC uses on a lot of phones and it ALWAYS needs to be completely removed if you don't want the Digitizer to float. Use manification(Microscope or desk magnifier), tand carefuly remove every molecule. Then wash with a solvent like windex or some I-alcohol. Use a qtip and maybe a soft tooth brush to remove the rest. Then carefully cut your new adhesive strips careful to not cover what was not covered before(Proximity chip, camera, etc.). Also, remove the shiny balck tape from around the edges after you remove the LCD. Smooth out where the LCD fits if some of the old adhesive became bunched when removing the LCD. The more prep you do, the less float and heartache you'll have later on.
I'll add more if I come up with anything significant as I put this POS back together...

After careful consideration, don't effing bother with this POS. If ya think it's hard to take apart, wait til ya gotta put it back in that ridiculously engineered back. From the volume rocker housing to the top corners, it was incredibly hard; and i have alot of experience. There's gotta be a trick I'm missing; but I dont miss many. I tried warming the back, spunger shim, really thin guitar pick shim(My own trick that has always gotten me out of a lot of tight housing problems), Bottom in 1st, side in first, top in first, but nothing got a nice tight seal. Best I could manage is left sound gapped and down volume wont work. This phone should be considered disposable if it wasnt so expensive. I Can only hope this is not the wave of the future for HTC and other EM's, or I'll be looking for a new profession after 20 years..

peakcelln said:
After careful consideration, don't effing bother with this POS. If ya think it's hard to take apart, wait til ya gotta put it back in that ridiculously engineered back. From the volume rocker housing to the top corners, it was incredibly hard; and i have alot of experience. There's gotta be a trick I'm missing; but I dont miss many. I tried warming the back, spunger shim, really thin guitar pick shim(My own trick that has always gotten me out of a lot of tight housing problems), Bottom in 1st, side in first, top in first, but nothing got a nice tight seal. Best I could manage is left sound gapped and down volume wont work. This phone should be considered disposable if it wasnt so expensive. I Can only hope this is not the wave of the future for HTC and other EM's, or I'll be looking for a new profession after 20 years..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Crap.
After replacing the screen and putting it back together, I'm facing exactly the same problem. It almost as if you have to use your brand new screen as a lever to let the back cover clips jump in.. what I obviously do not want to try. Have you found a solution in the mean time?
Thank you in advance,
Erwin

A bit of OT, but I don't think that it would be good idea to make separate topic for that
As I have my 8x allready disassembled (and I have to wait until few parts comes from china anyway) I'm wondering is it possible to swap rear camera module with one from Lumia 920? Any chance that it will fit and eventually work? I do realize that there's a different kind of connector in L920, but maybe contacts layout is the same on ribbon and I could just cut connector off?
Any chance?

I highly doubt it, but if you have any luck please post!

mc_gee said:
A bit of OT, but I don't think that it would be good idea to make separate topic for that
As I have my 8x allready disassembled (and I have to wait until few parts comes from china anyway) I'm wondering is it possible to swap rear camera module with one from Lumia 920? Any chance that it will fit and eventually work? I do realize that there's a different kind of connector in L920, but maybe contacts layout is the same on ribbon and I could just cut connector off?
Any chance?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Two different EM's With different Camera's, Modules, Sensors, etc.? I wouldnt do it either, could short your board...
---------- Post added at 05:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:51 PM ----------
ErwinP said:
Crap.
After replacing the screen and putting it back together, I'm facing exactly the same problem. It almost as if you have to use your brand new screen as a lever to let the back cover clips jump in.. what I obviously do not want to try. Have you found a solution in the mean time?
Thank you in advance,
Erwin
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I never did figure it out. I gave the customer a discount and vowed never to touch the phone again. Terrible design, way worse than the Inspire; and that one was pretty bad.

peakcelln said:
Two different EM's With different Camera's, Modules, Sensors, etc.? I wouldnt do it either, could short your board...
---------- Post added at 05:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:51 PM ----------
I never did figure it out. I gave the customer a discount and vowed never to touch the phone again. Terrible design, way worse than the Inspire; and that one was pretty bad.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for clarifying mc_gee's question about the camera swap.

peakcelln said:
Two different EM's With different Camera's, Modules, Sensors, etc.? I wouldnt do it either, could short your board...
---------- Post added at 05:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:51 PM ----------
I never did figure it out. I gave the customer a discount and vowed never to touch the phone again. Terrible design, way worse than the Inspire; and that one was pretty bad.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, I'd have to say in my few years of phone repairs, this has got to be THE scariest phone to fix. Absolute crap! I managed to replace the screen and get it all up and running but putting it back together is another story. So far, I've managed to break the power cable and the volume cable just trying to fit the thing back in its case.
Is there any need for such a seriously tight fitting back to a phone? I really don't want to finish this repair now as I'm afraid I'll break another cable and this is starting to cost me money replacing all the parts (which are also very hard to get hold of in the UK for some reason). It's definitely more hassle than it's worth and I won't be repairing any more of these crap phones.
If anyone has managed to get the back on without wrecking the phone, I'd love to know how it's done. If I do manage it by some miracle, I'll post an update.
Good luck to all those trying this repair.

[GUIDE]HDC Galaxy S4 Legend Disassembly + Antenna Modifications!

UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES ARE YOU PERMITTED TO REPOST ANY IMAGES OR TEXT FROM THIS GUIDE, DIGITALLY OR OTHERWISE, WITHOUT MY WRITTEN CONSENT.
I can only offer limited advice as I currently do not have an LCD. That said, I have a better understanding of the layout of the board now.
I have had several messages asking 'Where can I buy this part?' Unless it is already posted in this thread, I do not know where you can buy it.
Possible parts sellers: (I cannot confirm details are correct. Purchase at your own risk!)
LCD: http://s.taobao.com/search?q=fpc-a50...l-b&rsclick=13
An EXPERIMENTAL antenna guide can be found in this post: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=46020544&postcount=61
Results of this here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=46309271&postcount=68
I'm in the UK, using the O2 network so I do not know how it will affect US networks as they use a different frequency.
This guide is currently incomplete and will be updated as progress is made. Thanks to @henrykins111 and @PerisH-es for the helpful information.
Please note: This will void your warranty. I do not accept responsibility for this or any data loss or damage that may occur directly or indirectly as a result of attempting to follow any of the steps in this guide. Please take care and follow these steps at your own risk.
Tools required for the disassembly:
- Small (2-3mm?) Phillips head screwdriver
- Plastic pry tool or thin guitar plectrum.
Firstly, remove the back case, battery, microSD card and SIM card. Put these safely to one side.
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Remove the 9 screws that surround the edges of the back of the phone. Put these in a small box or something, I've lost countless screws by just leaving them on the side.
Insert the plectrum (or pry tool) between the chrome and the brushed style sections of the phone. Take care not to use too much force or push the plectrum in too far as this could damage some of the ribbon cables, situated mostly towards the top of the phone.
You'll be left with two parts. The grey piece you just removed will have the ribbon antennas for wifi and cellular signal attached, as well as the loudspeaker and the camera lens and flash diffuser. The board is now also exposed.
To remove the camera, using the plectrum to carefully unplug the ribbon cable. The main camera unit can then be lifted out, but be aware that it is held down by some tape so be aware that a small amount of force may be required.
Now using the same method unplug the small black ribbon cable that is attached to the SIM and microSD card slots.
The card slots are held in with a little glue, and these can now be removed.
To remove the board, first undo the 2 screws located in opposite corners that hold it down. Make a note of their location as it is easy to confuse which holes to put them in. Then, remove this small strip of tape, being VERY careful not to tear the ribbon cables beneath.
Using the plectrum, you can now remove these. The bottom cable is a data cable that links to the bottom board and the top cable is the screen cable (I think - not sure)
Just above the socket for the SIM and microSD card slots is another socket. This has a small, black, hinged plastic tab that you must lift until it is 90degrees to the board. You can then slowly slide out the ribbon cable from the socket. Underneath this cable is another plug type socket. Unplug this.
Another antenna cable can now be removed. This can be quite stiff but be very careful not to dent the metal on the connections and also be aware that it is possible to pull the socket itself from the board.
After unplugging another small ribbon cable located on the top edge of the phone, the board can now be lifted. Lift the board as smoothly as possible, making sure to not tear any of the ribbon cables.
To remove the first infrared sensor and light sensor, simply pull it vertically out from the casing of the phone.
Just underneath the top of the headphone jack is a small indent in the white plastic. Use this to remove the headphone jack, but be careful not to apply to much force as joined by another thin ribbon cable is the LED and second infrared sensor. This may take some slight wriggling to remove as it is all held in with a small amount of glue.
Unplug the ribbon cable from the bottom left hand side of the board.
The other end of the metal antenna cable can now be unplugged. being careful of the components underneath and the round thing (microphone?) the board should now only be held in by a couple of strips of tape and a little glue.
The other side of the bottom board. This helps explain a few things. The round object connected via the wires appears to be the vibration motor. There are no numbers or letters written on it. Those of you having problems, it may simply be a broken connection on this wire, so it's worth checking.
The microphone is the small surface mounted silver box located next to the solder points for the wires.
The LCD/digitizer/glass assembly is now held in with a little glue. Use the plectrum to remove the screen. If it's stubborn, gently heat with a heat gun or hair dryer on low heat in a circular motion over the device. You may need to apply a small amount of pressure to the back of the LCD, where the battery would normally be. There is a risk of breaking it if you do this, but this won't matter if you're replacing it anyway.
NOTE: The LCD cables will not fit through the slot they are in without removing the small black divider to the right hand side of the slot, where the top speaker would be.
!Potentially important information!
As I broke the LCD I thought I would have a go at separating the LCD from the digitizer/glass. Turns out it is possible BUT almost impossible to do without breaking the LCD.
If your LCD is broken but your glass/digitizer is fine, then you could try removing it. The LCD is glued to the glass only around the edge. To remove it, you simply have to pull the LCD from the glue. Before you do this, be ABSOLUTELY sure that you are only pulling the LCD off and not the digitizer. The easiest way to check is to remove the LCD from the top down, as here you can use the ribbon cable as a reference to which layer is the digitizer. Picture of this to come.
As mentioned by @henrykins111, gently heating the screen and using a thin metal spudger or xacto knife will really help with this.

Nice, on wich picture can you see the vibration engine?

splashboy said:
Nice, on wich picture can you see the vibration engine?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure where it is if I'm honest. I'll strip the phone down and power it up in parts to try and locate it.
Sent from my GT-I9500 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app

I was looking for the microphone part, i think in my phone it's defect and trying to repair it myself.
Maybe you have some shots of it?

Thanks for posting this. I'm also looking for the vibration engine as it seems to be faulty on mine, it stops working sometimes and shaking the phone a bit seems to fix it temporarily, which makes me think there's a loose connection. I'm also suffering from a poor wifi signal as I move away from the router - do you know where the wifi antenna is?

Original post has been updated with further information about the bottom board, microphone and vibration motor.
Firefly0 said:
do you know where the wifi antenna is?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It looks like the wifi antenna is the black cable with gold metal connections that runs down the right hand side (volume button side) and connects to the bottom board. This in turn connects to a grey flat ribbon style antenna which can be seen glued flat to the bottom of the phone simply by removeing the battery cover.
That said, I have the same problem. Different ROMs don't solve the problem. I'm wondering if it simply is weak, and maybe a strip of conductive tape or foil or similar on top of this antenna would help. Either that or have the complete opposite effect and it refelct signals around inside the phone. Might be worth a try though.

Really helpful, I thank you!

splashboy said:
Really helpful, I thank you!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad I could offer something useful to the community :laugh:

Firefly0 said:
Thanks for posting this. I'm also looking for the vibration engine as it seems to be faulty on mine, it stops working sometimes and shaking the phone a bit seems to fix it temporarily, which makes me think there's a loose connection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Let me know if you fixed it and how you did
Thanks!

Does anyone have any idea why I can't update the original post with images? If i copy the exact same code into a new post, it allows me to do it.
Example:

rynbrgss said:
Original post has been updated with further information about the bottom board, microphone and vibration motor.
It looks like the wifi antenna is the black cable with gold metal connections that runs down the right hand side (volume button side) and connects to the bottom board. This in turn connects to a grey flat ribbon style antenna which can be seen glued flat to the bottom of the phone simply by removeing the battery cover.
That said, I have the same problem. Different ROMs don't solve the problem. I'm wondering if it simply is weak, and maybe a strip of conductive tape or foil or similar on top of this antenna would help. Either that or have the complete opposite effect and it refelct signals around inside the phone. Might be worth a try though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the reply. That sounds like it could work, let me know the results if you try it. I've messaged the seller I bought the phone from about the poor wifi signal to see if they have any advice, I'll post back if I have any luck.
splashboy said:
Let me know if you fixed it and how you did
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It seems to be OK now after shaking the phone a bit. Pulling out the battery also seemed to temporarily fix it once, but I think that may have just been a coincidence. I'll probably try opening it up if it stops working again to see if there is a loose connection.

Firefly0 said:
Thanks for the reply. That sounds like it could work, let me know the results if you try it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've been having a play but no luck. I tried simply inserting a small strip of foil between the antenna and back case and no change. I then true different sizes an locations still the same. Even made an antenna from the foil that ran just love halfway up the phone and wired it into the pins on the board, and no significant change there either I'm afraid.
Sent from my GT-I9500 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app

rynbrgss said:
I've been having a play but no luck. I tried simply inserting a small strip of foil between the antenna and back case and no change. I then true different sizes an locations still the same. Even made an antenna from the foil that ran just love halfway up the phone and wired it into the pins on the board, and no significant change there either I'm afraid.
Sent from my GT-I9500 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It will be interesting, to see, if any parts from the real s4 are compatible with this legend, i see many users will pay an extra buck to replace de rear and front camera, and also the wifi, because these parts are relatively cheap..., in another angle, maybe someone will also wanted to change for the real s4 screen but i doubt that will be compatible .

I see many people with poor wifi, could an original flez cable be the solution?
ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Internal-Antenna-Signal-WIFI-Flex-Cable-Part-for-Samsung-Galaxy-S4-i9500-/290931180790?pt=UK_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item43bcd984f6

rynbrgss said:
Does anyone have any idea why I can't update the original post with images? If i copy the exact same code into a new post, it allows me to do it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think you have to load up the pictures again, not only try to link the pictures.
Thanks for your work on the Legend! :good:

Picture links fixed

lvieira76 said:
It will be interesting, to see, if any parts from the real s4 are compatible with this legend, i see many users will pay an extra buck to replace de rear and front camera, and also the wifi, because these parts are relatively cheap..., in another angle, maybe someone will also wanted to change for the real s4 screen but i doubt that will be compatible .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
While the wifi flex replacement should fit, I can't see it making any real difference. The wifi antenna itself is different from the S4; on our phones there is a thin grey ribbon antenna underneath the battery. It looks just like a sticker but on the other side of it it has a thin copper circuit. This is what is potentially the problem as it may not be very well designed. (I'm no expert when it comes to antenna designs themselves).
I'd be reluctant to try the camera but if you do let us know how it goes. The same with the screen.

I think the wifi antenna is the antenna in the top. The little one at the right-corner. You can try with that.
I believe that the botton antenna is the mobile antenna (GSM).
Hope it helps.
@rynbrgss Did you get to check the lcd model?

i sure hope that someone gets an fix for wifi, because, i receive my legend today and didnt pick the wireless 10 meters away...lol

PerisH-es said:
I think the wifi antenna is the antenna in the top. The little one at the right-corner. You can try with that.
I believe that the botton antenna is the mobile antenna (GSM).
Hope it helps.
@rynbrgss Did you get to check the lcd model?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't, I need to work out how to get to it without damaging the phone.
Ill have a play with the other antenna too, thanks for the heads
up.
lvieira76 said:
i sure hope that someone gets an fix for wifi, because, i receive my legend today and didnt pick the wireless 10 meters away...lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tried fluffy's Rom? That helped a lot wwith mine.
Sent from my GT-I9500 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app

[MOD] S Advance Touchstone mod

Hi guys,
I have seen this mod done on various devices. For those who haven't heard of it, just google wireless charging mod and you will be flooded with links.
I am very sorry for the links in the quotes, but I haven't reached the 10 posts which are required to post links, so I will come back sometime and fix it, or if some mod can do it, I would be really glad.
Demonstration :
youtube.com/watch?v=8yV50Hudpzk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am not responsible for any crime, catastrophe, natural disaster or any damage done to your phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So if you are okay with the above-mentioned, let's get started.
This mod is an easy one, you just need 5 things :
1. Wireless charging cover from Palm Pre or Palm Pixi
2. Palm Touchstone wireless dock station
3. Copper foil (can be bought from ebay or from your local stationery)
4. soldering iron, preferably with fine tip, but if you have some experience, you can get away with regular sized one
5. Galaxy S Advance (obviously )
Not required, but having a magnifying glass and an exacto knife can really help, because you can scratch off some of the blue solder mask, making your soldering area bigger, hence making the mod easier.
From what I've read on the S3 parts of xda, this mod should be possible also on the I9070P, without disabling or interfering with NFC.
I have put the wireless receiver under the silicone case, but you can put it under the back cover if you buy the Pixi one, I have bought this big monstrosity and gone around it this way.
Instructions​
0. Turn off your phone.
1. Disassemble the phone
You just have to take out 6 screws from under the back cover and then with a pick or something flat pry the assembly from the housing.
Here is the link for the disassembly video
youtube.com/watch?v=_0nuBDAuLm8
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
2. Solder 2 thin stripes of copper foil to the highlighted areas, the 5V one is a bigger square on the left of the microUSB port (which was the biggest bugger because all pinouts on the web show, that these squares are just supporting the connector on the PCB), and for the ground one, basically anything that's made out of metal should be grounded, I have soldered it directly to the side of the microUSB port, but I have seen one guy use the microSD card socket, so whatever you like .
imageshack.us/photo/my-images/547/pq7h.jpg/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
3. Drag the foil under the battery to the outside of the phone.
4. Rip off the receiver module from the cover. Be sure that you don't forget any part, I was going nuts until I figured out, that I forgot the aluminium part of the module on the old cover.
5. Figure out, which terminal on the module is + and -, on mine, the top one was negative and the bottom one was positive, find someone with a multimeter or use some bulb or an LED to figure out the polarity, you can never be 100% sure.
6. Solder thicker pieces of copper foil to the + and - terminals of the receiver.
7. Align the foil from the phone with the foil from the module, + to +, - to -.
8. Enjoy your mod
imageshack.us/photo/my-images/600/19nq.jpg/
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Click to collapse
If you have any questions, please post them here, so everyone can see them when they have the same problem. Thanks for reading

[Q] Power button/switch replacement - Soldering?

Hi guys, so I needed to order a new power button for my SII SkyRocket. The old button is off and the new one is one.... The problem is that I cannot get the new button to stay on. I've tried soldering it and the solder won't go into the board's holes.... Is there a trick to this?
Is there a how-to guide on installing a new switch?
Thanks.

mahhddgtp said:
Hi guys, so I needed to order a new power button for my SII SkyRocket. The old button is off and the new one is one.... The problem is that I cannot get the new button to stay on. I've tried soldering it and the solder won't go into the board's holes.... Is there a trick to this?
Is there a how-to guide on installing a new switch?
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you didn't remove the switch right you might have pulled the solder pads off. There should be two holes, one either side of the switch. These are the anchor holes that hold the switch on. There are two SMT pads on the back of the switch which are the switch contacts. They lift off the board really easy. Easiest way to fix is to use a hot air rework tool to remove the switch. Then tin the switch and melt the switch into place using the two holes to align the switch. I'll post some pictures Sunday night.

technoid1964 said:
If you didn't remove the switch right you might have pulled the solder pads off. There should be two holes, one either side of the switch. These are the anchor holes that hold the switch on. There are two SMT pads on the back of the switch which are the switch contacts. They lift off the board really easy. Easiest way to fix is to use a hot air rework tool to remove the switch. Then tin the switch and melt the switch into place using the two holes to align the switch. I'll post some pictures Sunday night.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think I pulled anything off that I shouldn't have.... This is what it looks like. See attached.

mahhddgtp said:
I don't think I pulled anything off that I shouldn't have.... This is what it looks like. See attached.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looks like the pads are still there... the two outside rear pads are the switch pads, the other three are just mounting pads. See pictures attached...
It's very easy to solder the anchor ring to one of the switch points which will ruin the install.
Also see this video, quite good...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F0xMMn1DRWs

RE: sgh i727r power switch pad traces
technoid1964 said:
Looks like the pads are still there... the two outside rear pads are the switch pads, the other three are just mounting pads. See pictures attached...
It's very easy to solder the anchor ring to one of the switch points which will ruin the install.
I see you know your stuff when it comes to phones. I have a short when i connect to the gold trace in front of the red arrow . Is this fixable and could I epoxy all but the trace and then connect the switch? The problem I am thinking is there is a short between the trace and the gold right next to it by the red arrow. Could I epoxy all the green area and scrape a new spot by the yellow arrow to insulate it from all the exposed metal around? You input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. This a link to the picture.
http: //imgur.com/ GeIdhRU you'll have to take the spaces out i am not allowed to post links.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Inside the Moto G6 XT1925 and Wireless Charhing Mod

This is the Moto G6 XT1925-12 Verizon Variant insides. I repair phones as a job and just happened to be working on one and decided to post in case anyone is curious, like all variants look very similar.
I'll eventually have the XT1925-6 Project Fi variant pictures as well as I do have a cracked screen on mine.

Another photo

It looks like to use hair dryer to heat up a bit and pry open the back.
It's good to know once the battery stopped working.

mingkee said:
It looks like to use hair dryer to heat up a bit and pry open the back.
It's good to know once the battery stopped working.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use a heated mat at work to open it, I will say that expect to buy a new back if you don't know what you're doing, it is glass and there is honestly more adhesive than what Samsung uses on their glass backs. Also a drop of alcohol here and there breaks down the adhesive.

A good way to go through the back adhesive. Also, the back is made of metal with glass on top of it.

nlooooo said:
A good way to go through the back adhesive. Also, the back is made of metal with glass on top of it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm pretty sure it's a metallic looking paint, metal would cause interference.

Bluemgt06 said:
I'm pretty sure it's a metallic looking paint, metal would cause interference.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure what you are talking about. What about a whole metal body phones, they would 'die' of interference?
Did you even see the video on the link I posted?

nlooooo said:
I'm not sure what you are talking about. What about a whole metal body phones, they would 'die' of interference?
Did you even see the video on the link I posted?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I saw the internals of the phone with my OWN EYES the back is absolutely 100% glass, not metal. Also the video says the selfie camera is 16mp, it's really 8mp. The only part of this phone that is metal is the middle section that is gray the black frame around the phone is plastic.
But I'm not gonna keep arguing about that, I have 6 years in cellphone repair. Phones that are "all metal" have antennas built into the top and bottom of the frame, that's the reason for the different sections. And obviously to you anything posted online first is correct.
I do apologize for any rudeness, but I have not had my coffee yet.

Bluemgt06 said:
I saw the internals of the phone with my OWN EYES the back is absolutely 100% glass, not metal. Also the video says the selfie camera is 16mp, it's really 8mp. The only part of this phone that is metal is the middle section that is gray the black frame around the phone is plastic.
But I'm not gonna keep arguing about that, I have 6 years in cellphone repair. Phones that are "all metal" have antennas built into the top and bottom of the frame, that's the reason for the different sections. And obviously to you anything posted online first is correct.
I do apologize for any rudeness, but I have not had my coffee yet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for you coffee, but I do have quite a time with phone and computer repairs. Not all I see is true for me, but the behavior of the part on the video looks like it's made of metal, glass won't bend like that. But you saw it with your own eyes so I won't argue (hope I won't have to rip appart my phone).
Anyway, the point of my post is about a way to cut through the glue on the back.

nlooooo said:
Sorry for you coffee, but I do have quite a time with phone and computer repairs. Not all I see is true for me, but the behavior of the part on the video looks like it's made of metal, glass won't bend like that. But you saw it with your own eyes so I won't argue (hope I won't have to rip appart my phone).
Anyway, the point of my post is about a way to cut through the glue on the back.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thin glass does have some flex to it, I've bent a tempered glass screen protector almost to a C shape before it broke. Using heat, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HCTH8Q6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FGGTBbSMX8FQG is what I use with work and a little 99.9% alcohol to break down the adhesive. I use a thin metal pri tool to get started then the thin guitar pics to go along the curved section.

LoL

Great work on the teardown! It looks easy enough to replace the battery. I was also looking at G6+'s teardown and I'm thinking it might be possible to get NFC in the regular G6.
The only difference on the two varients is the battery and the plastic covers. The G6 has the apks to run NFC, but what do you guys think?

ImpytheBiscuit said:
Great work on the teardown! It looks easy enough to replace the battery. I was also looking at G6+'s teardown and I'm thinking it might be possible to get NFC in the regular G6.
The only difference on the two varients is the battery and the plastic covers. The G6 has the apks to run NFC, but what do you guys think?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't have much need for NFC, but I have been working on installing wireless charging. Just have to work out the kink of using wired connection while the wireless hardware is attached, NOT IN USE/CHARGING AT THE SAME TIME.

Bluemgt06 said:
I don't have much need for NFC, but I have been working on installing wireless charging. Just have to work out the kink of using wired connection while the wireless hardware is attached, NOT IN USE/CHARGING AT THE SAME TIME.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's looking good so far! Keep us posted! Do you think it's also a kernel issue that's causing that kink?

ImpytheBiscuit said:
It's looking good so far! Keep us posted! Do you think it's also a kernel issue that's causing that kink?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not a kernel issue, it has to with the charging systems logic. What's happening is when the wired charger is plugged in the wireless one receives power and it disrupts the data of the phone knowing the type of charger that is connected.
Basically all I would have to do it put some diodes to keep power from going to the wireless coil when it shouldn't

Got my wireless charging mod working! It Rapid Charges via wireless too!

Bluemgt06 said:
Got my wireless charging mod working! It Rapid Charges via wireless too!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It looks so good! In surprised you got rapid charging on it too!

ImpytheBiscuit said:
Great work on the teardown! It looks easy enough to replace the battery. I was also looking at G6+'s teardown and I'm thinking it might be possible to get NFC in the regular G6.
The only difference on the two varients is the battery and the plastic covers. The G6 has the apks to run NFC, but what do you guys think?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have teardown G6 opened for months! Since it goes bricked suddenly for no reason. Where can i get those replacement battery?
---------- Post added at 03:10 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:46 AM ----------
Im not sure wht was happened with my G6, i was sleeping and leave it in charge all night. In the next norning i saw it was turned off, i tried to turn back on but nothing happen. Hold the power combination button for over than 5mnts still no luck. No device attached when i tried pluggin to PC. So i try my self to open the back cover and jump start the battery but still nothing happen. Only white LED blinking when i hold power button for few second and plugged in into the charger. Does anyone have solution for this? Sorry my bad english

72k said:
I have teardown G6 opened for months! Since it goes bricked suddenly for no reason. Where can i get those replacement battery?
---------- Post added at 03:10 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:46 AM ----------
Im not sure wht was happened with my G6, i was sleeping and leave it in charge all night. In the next norning i saw it was turned off, i tried to turn back on but nothing happen. Hold the power combination button for over than 5mnts still no luck. No device attached when i tried pluggin to PC. So i try my self to open the back cover and jump start the battery but still nothing happen. Only white LED blinking when i hold power button for few second and plugged in into the charger. Does anyone have solution for this? Sorry my bad english
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As new as the phone is I would have suggested just warranty with Motorola. But I'd find out what the voltage of the battery is, if it's under 3.6v then it's likely the phone is refusing to charge it (safety measure for faulty battery).

Bluemgt06 said:
As new as the phone is I would have suggested just warranty with Motorola. But I'd find out what the voltage of the battery is, if it's under 3.6v then it's likely the phone is refusing to charge it (safety measure for faulty battery).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
First i wanna thanks for your reply
No warranty available since i bought it from amazon and the country i lived has only one lenovo motorola official service centre. But they refuse to repair it because G6 is not even launched in my country, they said that the technician not be able handling this device
The battery was 3.8v lithium ion polymer with 2 wire. I've only got LED blinking fast if power on without battery attached to its connector and usb charger connected