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HTC Apache Audiovox PPC6700 LCD / Digitizer Replacement Instructions

All I have right now is this from someone online who said he had the instructions. If anyone has clear outlined pictures to do this, please post it.
Thank you!
"There are additional screws that need to be taken out. You have to pop off the housing on the top that covers the camera and the antenna port. there will be at least 2 more screws there. Then you will carefully have to pop off the back starting at the bottom by where the stylus is and pull that off. There is probably going to be another screw holding the board in place. It has been a few months since i have done this. Then the board comes out and you have 4 more screws these are phillips heads. That will take the back housing off of the front. Then 4 more screws to take the back plate off of the front housing."

Places i've tried to find LCD Digitizer replacement instructions for cracked LCD
The Audiovox PPC-6700 I have has a cracked screen. I got an LCD replacement, but have no detailed instructions on removing the cracked screen. Here are some useful places i've looked at to find the answer to this issue if it helps you:
http://forum.xda-developers.com ... of course why else would I post it here
http://buzzdev.net/component/option...tart,0/index.php?option=com_phorum&Itemid=125
http://forum.brighthand.com
http://www.mobiletechreview.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php

Not the best...but better than nothing....
Here are my own instructions I started... maybe someone else can expand/refine/clean this up. I'm done with this finally. Changing this is possible, but not necessarily easy. There's this tinny like sticker on the OEM LCD in the phone that's a real pain to pull off of the LCD. The pictures are terrible too...sorry...again..something= better than nothing.
In the end, it works...everything except my toggle does not click in like it used to...that's probably because of that rubber piece I did not know about. (A rubber piece fell out when I was taking it apart and I never figured out where it was supposed to go..so if anyone knows where that belongs and how it should be oriented..please post it.)
I took the stylus out.
I took the miniSD plastic blank out/ or miniSD memory card out just in case.
I took the battery cover off.
I took the battery out.
I set the camera lens in between the picture of the flower and the sun in the back.
I took the rubber piece out..there's a little probe looking thing behind it. (Probably was not necessary to take out.)
I took the back camera cover off. (Remove two Philips head screws with a PH0 head.) There are 7 notches holding it in place. [One above sun/flower adjuster, one slightly to the right above the flash hole, one above the rubber piece, one a tiny bit below the rubber piece, 2 on the insides at the bottom of the philips head screws, and one to the right of the speakerphone.]
I took the green circuit board that has camera flash behind the camera cover off. (Pops up off slot after removing one philips head screw.)
I took the camera unit off. (Do not pull up on camera, just pull the green board up off. The camera is sitting there, the board is wired like the camera flash board was plugged in, just pop it off.)
I took the cell phone antenna philips head screw off that is above where the camera was.
I took the 4 torx .050 allen head type size screws out to remove the back plastic cover of the phone off. Be very careful prying this portion apart. There are probably about 14 notches maybe that holds the back plate on. Some say to start trying to pry it apart from the antenna, but I was able to pry it apart from the bottom part of the phone on the antenna side... not where the antenna is. Be extremely careful how you pry this apart. You have to watch out for the speakerphone wires, there is a plug for what I think might be the keyboard and or LCD, the vibrating weight, and the main board itself... you don't want to scratch or sever any of these parts.
I slid the antenna off of the main board. Lift the board and gently pull up and out the black antenna.
I did not take the speakerphone off, but it looks like you have to pull the wire from the board that would still be attached to the back plate. The vibrating weight is also on the backplate.
I took the main board out of the phone. Keep the slider in mind between the IE button and the recorder button on the side of the phone. The black portion on the main board needs to line up with the actual switch you would slide up or down with your thumb on the side of the phone. When pulling the main board out, slide open the keyboard fully/halfway. Watch for a black rubber piece.
I removed the 4 philips head screws that hold the keyboard portion of the phone to the LCD portion of the phone together and lifted them apart. There is a silver/grey tape that you need to pop up the data cable and pull the tape off to completely separate the LCD portion.
I removed the 4 torx screws from behind the LCD screen and carefully took the LCD portion apart.
...ok well it's getting quite annoying to try and write everything I did after this, but it's pretty self explanatory. If it's not, you probably should not be changing your LCD in the first place anyhow. In order to release the LCD ribbon, the plastic piece at the end will need to pop up at an angle..it's kind of like a winch.
Here's a similar phone that gets taken apart if that helps you out in any way.
.........http://www.mdatweak.com/downloads/Wizard_Service_Manual.pdf
Pix 1-5 of 21 attached.

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re
what is the toggle you are refering to? i took mine apart to clean around the screen without any instructions, and everything still works, but the digitizer has had it, where did you get your replacement from?

I got my replacement from eBay. goldelec
The LCD had a weird rainbow thing going on in the center of it, that you can see if you look at it at the right angle and the bottom corner looks bright white when the screen is on for an extensive period of time. Again, it works...better than what I had. I did not get great instructions, but what he sold me worked fine.
The toggle i'm talking about is the button in between the call and hangup buttons on the front face of the phone. That toggle switch just does not seem connected or stiff like it used to be. I can't "click" up/down/left/right or select anything. I am convinced the rubber piece goes behind it somewhere somehow. I just have to take it apart and figure out the orientation of it.

thanks for these pics & instructions, I just replaced with a part from goldelec on ebay as well (though the auction list instructions as part of the deal, they didn't come with my shipment, so your play-by-play was invaluable)...and there's no screws left afterward! Always a good sign.

Maybe this will help some people...
http://wiki.ppcgeeks.com/index.php?title=How_To:Disassemble_your_6700

lcd replacement instructions
www.htclcd.com has a lot of good lcd replacement instructions also
as well as the LCD's

I just took apart two 6700's today (had to replace the buttons on the face and the circuit board underneath so for now I scavenged the parts from my backup phone)
anyway the phone is surprisingly easy to take apart and surprisingly straight forward.
You do not even have to organize the screws as there is ONLY 2 kinds (I like that) and its obvious when to use each as they are very different in size.
a straight head will take out the star bits if your careful (if you have one of those many different jewlers drivers kits you will find one that fits just fine)
OK cover card stylus battery out.
4 screws. 2 dark large at the bottom 2 small silver at the top of the battery cavity (the one on the top right is hidden underneath a small white sticker)
Now the "top" plastic section comes apart. (the area with the camera) make sure the camera switch is ALL THE WAY one way first it will make things easier later.
Lift from the bottom LEFT there is a tab under the black antennae casing and a tab on the right next to the speaker. Pry gently and it will "pop free" don't YANK as the speaker is attached still.
Pop the speaker out (leave it attached no reason to mess with that wee connector.)
Remove the single screw from the center of those board. NOW caution there is a square white soft "seal" around the led do not lose it.
finger tail "pop" the boards out.
Camera module same thing finger nail "pop" the module pops out but those asside.
3 more larger dark screws remove them now.
Now you need to remove the back half the the shell. Lift with force till you have a small opening and start poking at the hold downs till you can work it free. the hang point is again the black antennae housing. This was the most difficult part to remove and it was not that hard. Use care so it will look clean when you put it back together if thats important to you.
Now you see the mother board. one single screw is left silver middle right side (away from antennae)
Time to remove the main board. you need to use CARE here as its "catched" on opposing side (the usb port and ear piece ports) and the Black antenna housing.) and also atached via a short ribbon cable.
Once you have it free SLIDE out the keyboard this will give you a lot more slack to lift up the main board and tilt it sideways.
Peel the tape carefully once its free it will "pop" free using the same style connector as the camera board etc.. used.
remove and put asside.
now remove the 4 screws holding the keyboard to the phone. its free put asside (those are the only 4 that are different just LEAVE them in there holes they will stay if you don't toss it around)
now remove the 4 black screws holding the back of the keyboard housing down. Pop it free (its not hard there are poke holes made for this like flat screwdriver slots)
once you do this the ribbon will slide through the opening no worries.
now act like your breaking a glow stick and "bend" the case sides so the screen can be popped up a little.
lift the orange tape and you will see a different kind of rubbon connector. its white with a tiny black flap. use a finger nail and lift it will ROTATE 90's to vertical. the ribbon cable will now pop free.
now remove the 2 screws holding down the circuit board. remove it and the button pad (this is why you had to lift the screen a little or these won't come out.
Thats it. I did not go further than this but I do not remember it "looking" like it would be hard at all to get the screen and digitizer out.
This is all straight from memory so read ALL this first and adapt as you progress. DO not take it verbatum.
If something does not want to give ASSUME you forgot a screw and be extra diligent to find it before attempting to increase the amount of force you use though sometimes it just "needs" a wee more force.
Good Luck
I should have taken pics which I usually do when I do this again I will take detailed pics.
Ohh dolt reassembly
do everything in reverse. thats it. here are some tips for the tricky spots.
Reinserting the button pad ribbon. IE reconnect the ribbon BEFORE you put it in. its a lot easier. make sure its in all the way push the flap back down push the tape back down. Easy
Rescrewing the keyboard into the main shell. Get it roughly lined up and LOOK INSIDE one of the holes as you wiggle it around. you will see the screw hole quite clearly when it appears. insert and screw down. Do one on the other side easy as pie.
When you put the main board back in you need to make sure the VOLUME slide switch is in the MIDDLE neutral position so it it lines up with the volume slider itself IE it has to move BOTH direction misalign this and it will be jammed one way or the other. Pop it apart and try again.
When you put the final cover back on make sure the SWITCH for the camera is in the same direction as the plastic lever (the actual switch) so that they line up when you snap them together.
thats it. Really not that hard.

Stylus magnet gone

The magnet holding the stylus seems to have either come off its usual spot or is turned in another direction. But the stylus wasn't holding anymore. Today, I got to work and noticed I had lost the stylus. Is there any known fix for this? I never dropped the phone, it just wouldn't work one day.
Thanks for any help.

Did you open the Stylus? You can srew it (upper black part) up, where you can see the magnet that is hold by a plastic part: it cant move .... did someone fool you?
Greetz
Boris

Well, my stylus is lost now so it's too late. No, nobody was trying to trick me. Are you saying that the only magnet is in the tip of the stylus? The end that you write with? Because I believe I have another one.

with mine you cant write like a pencil only on the touch screen without ink ;-), its a touch pro without branding original from HTC. the magnet in it is placed in the inner stylus ca. 3 cm upwards from the "tip" ..., you can say just in the middle ..
Greetz
Boris

Well, mystylus was going into it's sleeve and not staying in, it was just sliding out. So, I don't know where the magnet was at all.

For me it seems that the contra part in the inner of your device (ferrum or magnetic) has moved or is broken so the magnetic stylus "found nothing to be magnetic with" hope you understand me, my english is worst .... You know that you need a little Power to remove the stylus from his hole. if you could test it with the other stylus that you still own (but must be for the TP!!), wether the stylus is hold or not.... and have a look in the inner of the stylus wether the magnet is there...
good night.... perhaps till tomorrow.... If you need a plan from the inner parts of the TP: i have one
Greetz
Boris
P.S. If you shake your device: Do you hear anything ??

Well, I tried but my replacement stylus didn't work. There is definitely a magnet missing inside the phone. At first it was tight, then it seemed blocked and now it just glides in and out.

So, can anyone give me any hints about what I can do to fix my stylus not sticking in its sleeve? I really need this fixed. Is it safe to open up a Fuze?

This happened to me today...
i have removed the battery, chip, microsd and then the back cover... a bit tricky but it was easy (folowing the dis/assembly guide), for mine the lower part didnt want to go out, so i pull out the speaker connector and then push it out.
and the other magnet was there... and it have a place in the back cover that i think it may be seen if you take the battery out... it have like a dent
now my problem is with the polarity... i dont know how to glue it ... it have 2 positions vertical or horizontal
the vertical position will attract the stylus but it seems not to enter completely
the horizontal will push it, but i dont know if it will hold it as is very hard to test it without adding glue and i will use exposy...
EDIT1: found where it go... its in the vertical position but it need to be tested (because the polarity is different dont know why) if you are going to glue it
EDIT2: i used a plastic card (old medic card, visa, ect) to pry out the back cover from the keyboard

Thanks
Many,many thanks to you.
Same situation so easy but the lose magnet not easy to find except by your tips. Ha, ha I love this forum, So many thanks to the people here who contribute helping each other
jorgepr13 said:
This happened to me today...
i have removed the battery, chip, microsd and then the back cover... a bit tricky but it was easy (folowing the dis/assembly guide), for mine the lower part didnt want to go out, so i pull out the speaker connector and then push it out.
and the other magnet was there... and it have a place in the back cover that i think it may be seen if you take the battery out... it have like a dent
now my problem is with the polarity... i dont know how to glue it ... it have 2 positions vertical or horizontal
the vertical position will attract the stylus but it seems not to enter completely
the horizontal will push it, but i dont know if it will hold it as is very hard to test it without adding glue and i will use exposy...
EDIT: found where it go... its in the vertical position but it need to be tested (because the polarity is different dont know why) if you are going to glue it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Illuminated home key mod updated 1/7/11

Hey guys, I just wanted to share a simlple mod that I did with my gtablet this afternoon. It bothered me for quite some time that the home keys to the side of thescreen were not backlit. I have modified mine so that the keys themselves are not lit, but rather boxes next to them are. I only had two surface mount LED's to start this project, but with the success I've had I am going to order 2 more for the remaining 2 buttons. Have a look, If there is interest, I can take more pictures and maybe write up a walk through.
EDIT- I opted to stick with the original 2 leds as electronic goldmine didn't stock blue led's anymore. links to other colors are below
After removing the front case I noticed that the black border was just painted on the backside of the case, I used an exacto knife to scrape away 4 rectangular areas next to each one of the buttons which were now visible from both sides.
I used 30ga. magnet wire from radio shack to soldered both of the LED's that I would be mounting inside. I noticed on the backside of the metallic battery holding tray that there was a recessed channel the LED's could be tucked into and wired without interfering with any existing wires.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2036277
I powered them by tapping into the USB ports power of 5v. In the finished picture you can see that they are well lit, but I need 2 more LED's for the remaining 2 buttons.
Overall this was a pretty simple project, and I am waiting on the LED's I've ordered to finish her up. I'm sorry for not posting more pictures, but I wasn't sure how this would turn out and did not take many while I was modding it.
The led lights follow the power scheme of the USB port. this means that anytime the tablet is powered on, or in sleep mode they will be lit. I like it that way because it's easy to tell if i've accidentally left it powered on.
I have just started uploading the pictures detailing how I have modded my gtab. below is a link to the Led's I used in this process. it looks as though they now only carry green and yellow.
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G17030
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G17053

please use t3h_g3n3r4l's hardware breakdown and disassembly guide to get your gtablet open.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=842354
To save space, I am going to skip the soldering process, and concentrate more on the led placement and power connecting points I used in my mod.
The photo's start in post 26.

This looks really good...
I would definitely like a few more pics though

I did the same thing but without the hard work.
A simple drop of krazy glue, let it dry over night and I have a nice round button to show where each button is.

Wow! This is amazing. Nice work. Please keep us posted and feel free to do a full diy if u'd like. I'm sure several of us would like to try this. I personally would love to as I've recently torn apart my vibrant to add a front facing camera.
Again, thanks!
Sent from my VegaN 'flavored' Gtab...

Krazy-glue ... that's clever.
Sent from my VEGAn-TAB-v1.0.0B5.1 using Tapatalk

Very nice! Yes, I'd like to see more pictures or a walkthrough. Thanks!
Sent from my VEGAn-TAB-v1.0.0B5.1 using Tapatalk

walk through!!!
Yea......I too would love to get a detailed walkthrough with maybe some more pics!!!!!

This is a double rainbow thing.
Nice work!!

I love it! Why did you go with illumination next to, as opposed to under, the buttons? Capacitive soft button HW in the way? If the LEDs are angled towards the soft buttons could enough light leak through the button itself or is the HW interface there basically mated to the plastic?
Sent from my VEGAn-TAB-v1.0.0B5.1 using Tapatalk

TheTruth said:
I love it! Why did you go with illumination next to, as opposed to under, the buttons? Capacitive soft button HW in the way? If the LEDs are angled towards the soft buttons could enough light leak through the button itself or is the HW interface there basically mated to the plastic?
Sent from my VEGAn-TAB-v1.0.0B5.1 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also wonder the same.
Say can u do a DIY guide for this?? I would love to do this!!!! A step by ste with pics would be fantastic!!!!! Also were did u get the leds from? I m gonna start getting supplies so when there is a write up i m ready to go
Sent from my VEGAn-TAB-v1.0.0B5.1 using Tapatalk

nice work! but i'd like to disable those keys because they are easy to hit by accident while i doing something else.

Nice work! How bout a step by step walk through so we can do this too?

thaigai said:
Hey guys, I just wanted to share a simlple mod that I did with my gtablet this afternoon. It has bothered me for quite some time that the home keys beside the screen were not backlit. I have modified mine so that the keys themselves are not lit, but rather boxes next to them are. I only had two surface mount LED's to start this project, but with the success I've had I am going to order 2 more for the remaining 2 buttons. Have a look, If there is interest, I can take more pictures and maybe write up a walk through.
After removing the front case I noticed that the black border was just painted on the backside of the case, I used an exacto knife to scrape away 4 rectangular areas next to each one of the buttons which were now visible from both sides.
I used 30ga. magnet wire to soldered both of the LED's that I would be mounting inside. I noticed on the backside of the metallic battery holding tray that there was a recessed channel the LED's could be tucked into and wired without interfering with any existing wires.
I powered them by tapping into the USB ports power of 5v. In the finished picture you can see that they are well lit, but I need 2 more LED's for the remaining 2 buttons.
Overall this was a pretty simple project, and I am waiting on the LED's I've ordered to finish her up. I'm sorry for not posting more pictures, but I wasn't sure how this would turn out and did not take many while I was modding it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Out of curiosity did you try putting the LEDS behind the actual buttons themselves or is there wiring there? I only as because i would think the light would come through the white paint better than black paint.

Also has anyone thought of using electro-luminescence film? This is similar what they used to make the tron outfits and is paper thin to boot you could span the buttons with a small strip and light them all and it can be cut in to shapes as well as long as the one power connection is still in tack.
Just a thought.

how did you deal with the sleep function. Ideally you would want the LEDs to turn off after you turn the G-tab to sleep.

LeviathanUltima said:
how did you deal with the sleep function. Ideally you would want the LEDs to turn off after you turn the G-tab to sleep.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
VERY good point!!!!

That is a good point. When I put the tablet to sleep, it would still wake up from a USB connected keyboard and it would continue to charge my phone / Syma S107 (mini helicopter).

ketty_yijun said:
nice work! but i'd like to disable those keys because they are easy to hit by accident while i doing something else.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Download ButtonRemapper from the market (I think it costs a buck), and set any references to Search, Home, Menu or Back to "Focus". Use Button Savior to add a little pull out drawer with the softkeys on screen.

I am going to poke around in the school supplies/office suplise of office depot/staples/target and see if i can find some small little textured stickers for just this purpose...probably the cheapest and easiest fix of all.
I do have one or those fiberoptic usb lights from years ago....seems like it would just be in the way though having that thing stuck on the side of the tab. Possibly one of those clip on book led book ligths from a book store???
just ideas....

[Discussion/Guide-in-the-making] Housing Replacement

EDIT 2011 08 13: Skip to the post where I'm working on a guide.
Also:
EDIT 2011 08 13: I have since ordered a Black Battery Cover to match it. However, I still can't find a Black "8.0 Xenon" label and a Black little rubber from the top left.
====
Background info:
Ok, so my XT720 is really beat up right now, and I'm looking into replacing the whole housing of my phone.
I bought these:
Front and back housing
Battery cover
(Yes, so the back housing is black and the battery cover is blue, I plan on vinyl dying it)
But I haven't been able to find any guide on disassembly and assembly...
Has anyone tried?

Hmm, you may run into some issues, that is for the xt701 which as far as I know has no HDMI out.
So the housing probably will not either

cdstewart said:
Hmm, you may run into some issues, that is for the xt701 which as far as I know has no HDMI out.
So the housing probably will not either
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I checked just now, it actually does have the HDMI out port.

The XT701 case will not fit the XT720. I read somewhere else, someone ordered this and tried. Will not fit. No HDMI port on the 701 and the USB port is on the other side up by the power button.
Why not use the correct case? http://cnn.cn/shop/motorola-milestone-xt720-housing-p-10055.html

dude,
the phone is made of really strong casing. I'm wondering how did u do it to be beaten up.
I think no one has gone thus far till taking the phone apart. Just my two cents here, beware that the body has 6 screws, 2 totally hidden and 2 partially hidden.
the top two screws are hidden under the rubber bud beside the camera lens and under "8.0 Xenon" label.
the middle row of 2 screws are visible just above the battery.
the bottom row of screws are partially hidden underneath the loud-speaker grills. The grill might be damage in the process of removing these screws. but since you're replacing the whole housing, it won't be a problem for you.

Brian5475E said:
The XT701 case will not fit the XT720. I read somewhere else, someone ordered this and tried. Will not fit. No HDMI port on the 701 and the USB port is on the other side up by the power button.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you link me to that source?
Because the housing I got has an HDMI port on the other side of the power button, and the USB port is on the left side of the phone, just like my current housing.
spiderx_mm said:
the phone is made of really strong casing. I'm wondering how did u do it to be beaten up.
=snip=
The grill might be damage in the process of removing these screws. but since you're replacing the whole housing, it won't be a problem for you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Firstly, thanks for the heads up about the screw locations!
I carry my phone in my keys pocket, and it banged up the chrome bezel a lot... After I swap it I'll put it in another pocket.
The grill actually doesn't come with the replacement housing, so thanks for the warning about potentially damaging it!

Ok so I finally decided to try putting on that XT701 casing on my XT720.
==== Step 1
I used a T5 screwdriver. And as explained, there's 6 screws:
- 2 of them are openly accessible after you take off the battery cover.
- 2 of them are under the speaker grill - simply run your fingers under it to pry it out
- 2 of them are at the top:
1 under the "8.0 Xenon" label - use a push pin and run it along the edge to pry it open
1 under the top left tiny rubber cover - again, use a push pin, dig into it and pry it out
==== Step 2
Run your fingers along the egde of the blue plastic (where the blue and silver meet) and dig your fingers in to unhook the mechanism. The blue back cover should come right off after you run your fingers around the contour 1-3 times.
==== Step 3
Here's where I'm stuck. I'm trying to separate the electronics from the front silver part. There's some screws that I believe attach the screen to the front cover. But those screws are even smaller and my T5 did not work on them. I just ordered a set of T4 and T3 screwdrivers from China. So I'll get back to this in maybe 3-4 weeks.

Wow, black looks sexy. Post some pictures when youre done.

You got as far as I did
Hahutzy said:
Ok so I finally decided to try putting on that XT701 casing on my XT720.
==== Step 1
I used a T5 screwdriver. And as explained, there's 6 screws:
- 2 of them are openly accessible after you take off the battery cover.
- 2 of them are under the speaker grill - simply run your fingers under it to pry it out
- 2 of them are at the top:
1 under the "8.0 Xenon" label - use a push pin and run it along the edge to pry it open
1 under the top left tiny rubber cover - again, use a push pin, dig into it and pry it out
==== Step 2
Run your fingers along the egde of the blue plastic (where the blue and silver meet) and dig your fingers in to unhook the mechanism. The blue back cover should come right off after you run your fingers around the contour 1-3 times.
==== Step 3
Here's where I'm stuck. I'm trying to separate the electronics from the front silver part. There's some screws that I believe attach the screen to the front cover. But those screws are even smaller and my T5 did not work on them. I just ordered a set of T4 and T3 screwdrivers from China. So I'll get back to this in maybe 3-4 weeks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dude, you got as far as I did... I got the smaller torx bits & started my attempt to separte the electronics from the face plate... found my fingers were too large to manipulate & figured I'd do more harm than good... I still have the replacement housing... phunny thing, a few months after giving up, my 3g radio stopped working.. Cinci Bell tech couldn't fix (go figure!)... so I ended up buying the phone insurance for 6 bucks a month & got a free replacement.... Housing fixed! Bouyaaah!... If anyone wants the housing I have, you pay shipping & I'll send it to you... it is missing the USB door (i used it on my old XT720). Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.

[Q] google tv remote repair

A juice box got spilled on my sony google tv remote control. Now all the buttons stick. Id like to take it apart and clean it up without breaking it. I bought the torx driver for the screws in the back, got them out, and cant figure out how to get it open. Ive googled like crazy and found a lot about the control app, but nothing about repairing the real remote.
Does anyone know how to get it apart? Or can link me in the right direction?
Thanks
jordan

Also Looking to repair my remote
Did you have any luck in getting the remote apart? What size torex did you use. I can't seem to find anybody who has taken one of these apart. My grandson dropped it on the tile and now something, inside, is rattling around. How do you like children??? Medium Rare?? :0

Very good question. I have waiting for this answer.

Please use the Q&A Forum for questions &
Read the Forum Rules Ref Posting
Moving to Q&A

Got it
bitterevp said:
A juice box got spilled on my sony google tv remote control. Now all the buttons stick. Id like to take it apart and clean it up without breaking it. I bought the torx driver for the screws in the back, got them out, and cant figure out how to get it open. Ive googled like crazy and found a lot about the control app, but nothing about repairing the real remote.
Does anyone know how to get it apart? Or can link me in the right direction?
Thanks
jordan
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Hey Jordan I figures out how to undo the remote when u take it apart from the back which would require you to take out the screws below the batteries after you pry it open there are additional visible screws the both on the yellow board and green board then the key is to also unclip the wire on the top left the key is in the middle top there where the infrared sensor is its like a black rectangle looking clip with a smaller looking green mother board you have to hold the clip on the top of it both on the top left and right and pry the smaller green mother board out and below that is the hidden screw keeping you from being able to fully take apart the remote let me know I you have any questions just email me! Hope I helped!

A friend accidentlly spilled coffee on my NSM-MR1. Does anyone know if there is a video on how to take it apart and clean it? What do you use to clean it?

I went to use my NSZ-GT1 today and the top of the remote was split apart where the IR panel was pushed in. After accusing everybody in proximity of stepping on it I started trying to tear it apart.
I got the 2 screws inside out with a T4 torx and then gently pried the two halves apart. I started at the top because mine was splitting there(where the IR panel is.) I managed to separate them by pushing the top part in and up all around the top side. Once I got past the rounded corners into the sides it popped right apart(be careful of the battery connectors.)
I didn't tear it down far enough to get at the buttons, but that didn't look like it would've been too difficult.