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HTC Apache Audiovox PPC6700 LCD / Digitizer Replacement Instructions

All I have right now is this from someone online who said he had the instructions. If anyone has clear outlined pictures to do this, please post it.
Thank you!
"There are additional screws that need to be taken out. You have to pop off the housing on the top that covers the camera and the antenna port. there will be at least 2 more screws there. Then you will carefully have to pop off the back starting at the bottom by where the stylus is and pull that off. There is probably going to be another screw holding the board in place. It has been a few months since i have done this. Then the board comes out and you have 4 more screws these are phillips heads. That will take the back housing off of the front. Then 4 more screws to take the back plate off of the front housing."

Places i've tried to find LCD Digitizer replacement instructions for cracked LCD
The Audiovox PPC-6700 I have has a cracked screen. I got an LCD replacement, but have no detailed instructions on removing the cracked screen. Here are some useful places i've looked at to find the answer to this issue if it helps you:
http://forum.xda-developers.com ... of course why else would I post it here
http://buzzdev.net/component/option...tart,0/index.php?option=com_phorum&Itemid=125
http://forum.brighthand.com
http://www.mobiletechreview.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php

Not the best...but better than nothing....
Here are my own instructions I started... maybe someone else can expand/refine/clean this up. I'm done with this finally. Changing this is possible, but not necessarily easy. There's this tinny like sticker on the OEM LCD in the phone that's a real pain to pull off of the LCD. The pictures are terrible too...sorry...again..something= better than nothing.
In the end, it works...everything except my toggle does not click in like it used to...that's probably because of that rubber piece I did not know about. (A rubber piece fell out when I was taking it apart and I never figured out where it was supposed to go..so if anyone knows where that belongs and how it should be oriented..please post it.)
I took the stylus out.
I took the miniSD plastic blank out/ or miniSD memory card out just in case.
I took the battery cover off.
I took the battery out.
I set the camera lens in between the picture of the flower and the sun in the back.
I took the rubber piece out..there's a little probe looking thing behind it. (Probably was not necessary to take out.)
I took the back camera cover off. (Remove two Philips head screws with a PH0 head.) There are 7 notches holding it in place. [One above sun/flower adjuster, one slightly to the right above the flash hole, one above the rubber piece, one a tiny bit below the rubber piece, 2 on the insides at the bottom of the philips head screws, and one to the right of the speakerphone.]
I took the green circuit board that has camera flash behind the camera cover off. (Pops up off slot after removing one philips head screw.)
I took the camera unit off. (Do not pull up on camera, just pull the green board up off. The camera is sitting there, the board is wired like the camera flash board was plugged in, just pop it off.)
I took the cell phone antenna philips head screw off that is above where the camera was.
I took the 4 torx .050 allen head type size screws out to remove the back plastic cover of the phone off. Be very careful prying this portion apart. There are probably about 14 notches maybe that holds the back plate on. Some say to start trying to pry it apart from the antenna, but I was able to pry it apart from the bottom part of the phone on the antenna side... not where the antenna is. Be extremely careful how you pry this apart. You have to watch out for the speakerphone wires, there is a plug for what I think might be the keyboard and or LCD, the vibrating weight, and the main board itself... you don't want to scratch or sever any of these parts.
I slid the antenna off of the main board. Lift the board and gently pull up and out the black antenna.
I did not take the speakerphone off, but it looks like you have to pull the wire from the board that would still be attached to the back plate. The vibrating weight is also on the backplate.
I took the main board out of the phone. Keep the slider in mind between the IE button and the recorder button on the side of the phone. The black portion on the main board needs to line up with the actual switch you would slide up or down with your thumb on the side of the phone. When pulling the main board out, slide open the keyboard fully/halfway. Watch for a black rubber piece.
I removed the 4 philips head screws that hold the keyboard portion of the phone to the LCD portion of the phone together and lifted them apart. There is a silver/grey tape that you need to pop up the data cable and pull the tape off to completely separate the LCD portion.
I removed the 4 torx screws from behind the LCD screen and carefully took the LCD portion apart.
...ok well it's getting quite annoying to try and write everything I did after this, but it's pretty self explanatory. If it's not, you probably should not be changing your LCD in the first place anyhow. In order to release the LCD ribbon, the plastic piece at the end will need to pop up at an angle..it's kind of like a winch.
Here's a similar phone that gets taken apart if that helps you out in any way.
.........http://www.mdatweak.com/downloads/Wizard_Service_Manual.pdf
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re
what is the toggle you are refering to? i took mine apart to clean around the screen without any instructions, and everything still works, but the digitizer has had it, where did you get your replacement from?

I got my replacement from eBay. goldelec
The LCD had a weird rainbow thing going on in the center of it, that you can see if you look at it at the right angle and the bottom corner looks bright white when the screen is on for an extensive period of time. Again, it works...better than what I had. I did not get great instructions, but what he sold me worked fine.
The toggle i'm talking about is the button in between the call and hangup buttons on the front face of the phone. That toggle switch just does not seem connected or stiff like it used to be. I can't "click" up/down/left/right or select anything. I am convinced the rubber piece goes behind it somewhere somehow. I just have to take it apart and figure out the orientation of it.

thanks for these pics & instructions, I just replaced with a part from goldelec on ebay as well (though the auction list instructions as part of the deal, they didn't come with my shipment, so your play-by-play was invaluable)...and there's no screws left afterward! Always a good sign.

Maybe this will help some people...
http://wiki.ppcgeeks.com/index.php?title=How_To:Disassemble_your_6700

lcd replacement instructions
www.htclcd.com has a lot of good lcd replacement instructions also
as well as the LCD's

I just took apart two 6700's today (had to replace the buttons on the face and the circuit board underneath so for now I scavenged the parts from my backup phone)
anyway the phone is surprisingly easy to take apart and surprisingly straight forward.
You do not even have to organize the screws as there is ONLY 2 kinds (I like that) and its obvious when to use each as they are very different in size.
a straight head will take out the star bits if your careful (if you have one of those many different jewlers drivers kits you will find one that fits just fine)
OK cover card stylus battery out.
4 screws. 2 dark large at the bottom 2 small silver at the top of the battery cavity (the one on the top right is hidden underneath a small white sticker)
Now the "top" plastic section comes apart. (the area with the camera) make sure the camera switch is ALL THE WAY one way first it will make things easier later.
Lift from the bottom LEFT there is a tab under the black antennae casing and a tab on the right next to the speaker. Pry gently and it will "pop free" don't YANK as the speaker is attached still.
Pop the speaker out (leave it attached no reason to mess with that wee connector.)
Remove the single screw from the center of those board. NOW caution there is a square white soft "seal" around the led do not lose it.
finger tail "pop" the boards out.
Camera module same thing finger nail "pop" the module pops out but those asside.
3 more larger dark screws remove them now.
Now you need to remove the back half the the shell. Lift with force till you have a small opening and start poking at the hold downs till you can work it free. the hang point is again the black antennae housing. This was the most difficult part to remove and it was not that hard. Use care so it will look clean when you put it back together if thats important to you.
Now you see the mother board. one single screw is left silver middle right side (away from antennae)
Time to remove the main board. you need to use CARE here as its "catched" on opposing side (the usb port and ear piece ports) and the Black antenna housing.) and also atached via a short ribbon cable.
Once you have it free SLIDE out the keyboard this will give you a lot more slack to lift up the main board and tilt it sideways.
Peel the tape carefully once its free it will "pop" free using the same style connector as the camera board etc.. used.
remove and put asside.
now remove the 4 screws holding the keyboard to the phone. its free put asside (those are the only 4 that are different just LEAVE them in there holes they will stay if you don't toss it around)
now remove the 4 black screws holding the back of the keyboard housing down. Pop it free (its not hard there are poke holes made for this like flat screwdriver slots)
once you do this the ribbon will slide through the opening no worries.
now act like your breaking a glow stick and "bend" the case sides so the screen can be popped up a little.
lift the orange tape and you will see a different kind of rubbon connector. its white with a tiny black flap. use a finger nail and lift it will ROTATE 90's to vertical. the ribbon cable will now pop free.
now remove the 2 screws holding down the circuit board. remove it and the button pad (this is why you had to lift the screen a little or these won't come out.
Thats it. I did not go further than this but I do not remember it "looking" like it would be hard at all to get the screen and digitizer out.
This is all straight from memory so read ALL this first and adapt as you progress. DO not take it verbatum.
If something does not want to give ASSUME you forgot a screw and be extra diligent to find it before attempting to increase the amount of force you use though sometimes it just "needs" a wee more force.
Good Luck
I should have taken pics which I usually do when I do this again I will take detailed pics.
Ohh dolt reassembly
do everything in reverse. thats it. here are some tips for the tricky spots.
Reinserting the button pad ribbon. IE reconnect the ribbon BEFORE you put it in. its a lot easier. make sure its in all the way push the flap back down push the tape back down. Easy
Rescrewing the keyboard into the main shell. Get it roughly lined up and LOOK INSIDE one of the holes as you wiggle it around. you will see the screw hole quite clearly when it appears. insert and screw down. Do one on the other side easy as pie.
When you put the main board back in you need to make sure the VOLUME slide switch is in the MIDDLE neutral position so it it lines up with the volume slider itself IE it has to move BOTH direction misalign this and it will be jammed one way or the other. Pop it apart and try again.
When you put the final cover back on make sure the SWITCH for the camera is in the same direction as the plastic lever (the actual switch) so that they line up when you snap them together.
thats it. Really not that hard.

[Q] cracking the transformer open, need ideas

im trying to crack the transformer open and do u think the back is glued on or is it screwed on? im thinking theres probrably some screws behind the lable but cant seams to find anything here that wont scratch it to remove it. hit me up with ideas and hopfully I can post some kind of video on how to dissacemble the transformer.

It will most likely be fastened with screws. I think if it had been glue peoples cases wouldnt be 'creaky'. There were some pics on a Chinese site showing it open. I saved them to my pc, If I find them I'll upload.
Edit: Well I found them but they're not really showing the case. I'll attach them anyways and you can see if they help or not. It looks like once you get the bezel off the back just slides clean off.

Ok well scratch screws under the asus logo, thanks very much for those pics. I already have the screws out from the bottom. I'm guessing the back seals with some type of clips

Looking at there tools in second picture seams they used a guitar pic to losses it from its edges

cowballz69 said:
Looking at there tools in second picture seams they used a guitar pic to losses it from its edges
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe try a credit card?

Ha tore up my room looking for my guitar pic lol. Ill try my credit card

When in doubt use a hammer.

stuntdouble said:
When in doubt use a hammer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol, tryed to use a credit card but its to thick, going to stop at the store tomorrow and pick one up

cowballz69, pm sent

If you have one, your best bet is a Stanley knife (boxcutter, I think you call them). Should be thin enough, you'll just have to be careful not to nick any internal crap.
If it were me, I'd use a scalpel, but I know most people don't have one handy.

ok well heres my mini review untill i get a guitar pick, i got the bottom half to crack open with a credit card(to thick but i did it), i was then able to slide the card from one end to the other. The plastic clips holding the metal are very very crappy. the metal was extreemly easy to bend and by just putting the card threw the bottom was enough to bend it. i was however; able to put it back together with out making it look as if i opened it, but u would need a ULTRA Thin piece of plastic to complete the mission(DO NOT USE ANYTHING ELSE BUT PLASTIC,,THE METAL AROUND THE EDGE IS SUPER FRAGLE). seams all ASUS does is pop the plastic backing in and screw the bottom and its off to who every buys it.
(Losining the bottom screws lowerd the light bleed that was there by 30% ( i was a full brightness and back screen and loosining the screwes made a big impact so the issue with the light bleed is to much pressure on those areas)
seams this is easy enough just need the right tools.

cowballz69 said:
(Losining the bottom screws lowerd the light bleed that was there by 30% ( i was a full brightness and back screen and loosining the screwes made a big impact so the issue with the light bleed is to much pressure on those areas)
seams this is easy enough just need the right tools.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting. That seems to be the very spot where my screen has a little backlight bleeding. I'll try it out in a few minutes.

Youtube it
If this is the fix. A youtube vid would be awesome. Ready set go

paleridr said:
If this is the fix. A youtube vid would be awesome. Ready set go
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thats not the only spot i have light bleed, i also have bleeding on the top portion and theres no screw to losen so must be on to tight from the inside. however this does prove that the bleeding is from pressure not the screen itself

You need these spudgers,
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/professional-premium-precision-phone-disassembly-tool-7-piece-set-23050
Get a few sets (if you're planning on opening up electronics on a regular basis). These are soft plastic, and will wear out after a few uses. You don't want to use anything harder like a knife, as then you will mar the 'lips' on the device shells. Aesthetics aside, that will show up as evidence of tampering, meaning goodbye warranty.
Most electronics use plastic snap-in clips to hold the shells, along with screws and possibly soft glue. Going slow will prevent the clips from snapping off, but not always.
You can find these same tools on Amazon and eBay. Just search on 'spudger', which is their name.
Use the guitar pick to get the initial crease, push one of the thicker wedges into the crease, and slide it along the seam. This assumes you've gotten all of the (hidden) screws.

e.mote said:
You need these spudgers,
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/professional-premium-precision-phone-disassembly-tool-7-piece-set-23050
Get a few sets (if you're planning on opening up electronics on a regular basis). These are soft plastic, and will wear out after a few uses. You don't want to use anything harder like a knife, as then you will mar the 'lips' on the device shells. Aesthetics aside, that will show up as evidence of tampering, meaning goodbye warranty.
Most electronics use plastic snap-in clips to hold the shells, along with screws and possibly soft glue. Going slow will prevent the clips from snapping off, but not always.
You can find these same tools on Amazon and eBay. Just search on 'spudger', which is their name.
Use the guitar pick to get the initial crease, push one of the thicker wedges into the crease, and slide it along the seam. This assumes you've gotten all of the (hidden) screws.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
breaking a clip is def possible in this case

How did you get the screws on the bottom off? Do you have the right screw driver (any ideas where I can get one)?

jrac86 said:
How did you get the screws on the bottom off? Do you have the right screw driver (any ideas where I can get one)?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it's a torx.

jrac86 said:
How did you get the screws on the bottom off? Do you have the right screw driver (any ideas where I can get one)?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Use a Torx T6 bit.
When you opened it up, was there anything to suggest there was any way Asus would know you had opened it up please (if you hadnt bent the bezel ofc) if you needed to send it back under warranty for some reason?

opening is not recomended threw my experiance * I used the thinnest guitar pic today*,and the metal around the edge;any slight flex and it ends up staying that way and wont go back on straight no matter how carefull u are, also the clips that hold the plastic back to the bezil is ULTRA CRAPPY to a point u have a 50 50 chance of it not holding the plastic cover anymore. ON the plus side; if u loosen the bolts in the bottom, u can relieve the light bleed there. so reguarding the light bleed its best to just send it back to ASUS to get it fixed.
MY Next step is having ASUS fix my light bleed on my own tablet and not have them give me a replacement.
I will be posting a before picture of the light bleed when i send it out , and a After picture on when i recieve it back from them. good idea??

Rear speaker problem fix! FINALLY!!!

I know there are thousands of people looking all over the web for a solution to their captivate's rear speaker cutting out and I am happy to report I have a solution for you! I searched all over these forums, all over google, and by the grace of God I somehow found this suggestion in a comment on a pointless YouTube video with around only a thousand views. But whatever! Here it is...
Take off the back casing of your phone (it's not too difficult; here are the instructions http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=740022)
Once you have the back all opened up you should see one lone screw remaining just to the left of the speaker
Loosen the screw
That's it!!!!!!!! The guys' comment on YouTube said he noticed the screw was in so tight that that it was bending the circuit board and messing up the connection. Which makes sense to me because earlier I noticed that pushing down on the right side of the speaker (on the opposite side of the screw) seemed to help better than pushing anywhere else.
So stop listening to all the threads that say "just push on the speaker" or "get it repaired" or "just deal with it." I had jammed stuff in behind my back cover that was so thick it started to bend the metal, but it was always just a temporary fix. No pressure was ever enough pressure to get the speaker consistently working. Who knew the answer would be less pressure? Or that it would be so simple...
Now go fix your phone and enjoy!
UPDATE: If you are still having problems, try mithileshpatel007's fix from page two of this thread. Sounds like people have had luck with his method too. He suggests repositioning the speaker ribbon. The ribbon is located on the far right and can be seen going from the bottom of the speaker housing to a small terminal that may be covered by a piece of blue tape. Everything is so tiny that it sort of all looks like one piece but what you can do is...
flip up a tiny black latch (bottom of the terminal)
reposition or remove + replace the ribbon (enters at the top of the terminal). There isn't much slack, but try to get it as far in there as possible
PLEASE BE CAREFUL! The ribbon is tiny and pretty stiff and some people have reported problems just getting their phone open, much less playing around. Remember this is a tiny device made to do big things so it's not as durable as your GameBoy Color! Handle with care.

Clarification
I should clarify. I loosened the screw till it was coming out and then tightened it VERY gently. I screwed it back in and stopped at the first feel of resistance. I did this last night and have been blasting music and getting notifications without any problem since.

Check back in a day or two. A couple hours of a fixed speaker doesn't impress me...been there done that. But I did fix mine tho.
Sent from my SGH-I897 using xda premium

Thanks for this info. My speaker just started acting up the other day. I pushed on it like others have said to, and so far it has been good for a couple of days now. If it so much as acts like it is going to do this again, I will take the above steps.
Thanks!

Check back in a day or two. A couple hours of a fixed speaker doesn't impress me...been there done that. But I did fix mine tho.
Sent from my SGH-I897 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My speaker is still working great. I understand the skepticism but I wanted to put the post up right away because 1) the fix made so much sense to me, 2) my speaker was ALWAYS cutting out before I did it and NEVER cut out after, and 3) I wanted to help as many people as soon as possible because I know how maddening this problem is!
How did you fix yours? And by the way, impressing you was never my goal

Works!
Thanks for this suggestion! I've been fighting this problem for months now and the tap-tap-push method only ever fixed the problem for a few minutes. Since trying your "fix" my speaker has worked for 2 days now!

Thanks so much for this... Had mine fixed in a jiffy...

snoboarder071 said:
My speaker is still working great. I understand the skepticism but I wanted to put the post up right away because 1) the fix made so much sense to me, 2) my speaker was ALWAYS cutting out before I did it and NEVER cut out after, and 3) I wanted to help as many people as soon as possible because I know how maddening this problem is!
How did you fix yours? And by the way, impressing you was never my goal
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol
Sent from my SGH-I897 using xda premium

Finally!!!
no more being late for work because the alarm didn't sound!

so far so good! before the fix my captivate had sound maybe 5% of the time. hasn't cut out yet since loosening that pesky screw!
thanks!

For those of you who do not have warranty or insurance, there is a fix for this.
I just got done with re assembling the phone after a fix I performed. It is real easy to do.
Things you need:
-A screwdriver (whatever the size is when you open the back cover, the four screws you see, that size)
-A small flat head screwdriver if you have one (not necessary but would help)
-Patience and some common sense.
Ok, to start off follow these steps http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=740022 to open the first 6 screws and then how to pop open the screen from the bezel(this is when a flat head screwdriver would be useful).
(go just to the step till the fifth picture in that thread, no need to go beyond that opening things!)
Now, you would see a screw on the left of the speaker. Now, other threads said that by loosening that screw the speaker would work. But, I did that and still had issues so I opened the phone like 4 times in total before I found out what it was. Now, notice that the speaker unit has a cable (orange colored) running into the main phone chip. It is connected there through which it functions. When you open that above mentioned thread to open the phone there is a picture showing to remove the that belt from the board. Follow that instructions, flip that tiny black clip up to remove the belt. In some cases there might be a blue sticker kind of thing on the belt, just take off that sticker. The problem seems that the belt is loosing contact which doesn't allow the speaker to get the sound input to put out sound through the speaker. So, take off the belt by flipping that switch and re insert it out there. Try to push it in properly or enough to align a white line on the belt and the chip. There is a white line to guide us there. That line should be totally straight when the belt is inserted appropriately. And now, flip that clip down and lock it. If you have loosened the screw left to the speaker, put it back in in normal force not excessive(no need to be more gentle here). You cannot leave it loose because it makes the whole unit move when it is loose eventually pulling off the belt from its place which causes the sound cut outs. The whole trick is to get the belt right in its place. So, make sure it is tight but not extra tight after you have managed to get the belt right. Put everything back together and now when you screw the last 6 screws again, the one in the top speaker corner affects the speaker unit, so don't push it too hard in. Just normal screwing. The rest should be done properly with normal force. This should solve it. I figured this out after opening the phone 4 times. And now playing songs since the past 6 hours non stop and its back in action again!
For all this, i did put in the battery and start the phone when I had opened it and tried messing around and figured out what was killing the sound, so this should be the ultimate solution to it. There is nothing else that can be affecting it now.
Most people must had faced this because they dropped their phones before which made the belt to move and hence the loose contacts inside. If not then, there are high chances that you bought it from someone or somewhere who had dropped it before!
Well that's it! Also, don't freak out in having to open the phone. You should just go to the step till the fifth picture. Which is very easily achievable!
Go, have fun with your WORKING speakers now!

I tried to open my Cappy but failed a unscrewing the middle screws...they are soo tight

My problem is that the ribbon cable between the speaker and the board is too short. No way to line that white stripe up. Got it in there as best I could and so far so good

I'm just guessing... but I would think that because this could possibly void a warranty is the only reason they don't make this a sticky, but it really should be...nice find and much appreciated. It is a common and very annoying problem and this fix really does seem to work!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using XDA App

Rear Speaker Fix - Thanks for the advice!
Just successfully disassembled my wife's phone without busting it into 1 million pieces. I loosened that screw next to the speaker, tightened just until i felt it start to grab, backed it off 1/16th of a turn, and the speaker works now. Great job on hunting down that video.
-Word of advice, The screw your loosening on the speaker housing is also the screw that holds the motherboard secure. I would recommend not removing the screw. The Captivate may self destruct if you do so.
10 out of 10 HERE! THUMBS UP!
Thanks.
______________________
Samsung Captivate i897
Firmware: Gingerbread 2.3.5
Baseband: I897UCKK4
Kernal: 2.6.35.7-I897UCKK2-CL614489
BUILD: GINGERBREAD.UCKK4

worked for me

So I attempted this fix, considering I had no sound from the speaker at all.
I managed to somehow break the black connector flap that holds the ribbon cable in off of the connector. Now the speaker has no connection whatsoever, and now I don't have the vibrate function as well. (The speaker and vibrating motor are in the same assembly.)
Just a word to the wise. (I think I had actually broken my speaker, because I could get no sound at all, even before I broke the connector.)

mithileshpatel007 said:
For those of you who do not have warranty or insurance, there is a fix for this.
I just got done with re assembling the phone after a fix I performed. It is real easy to do.
Things you need:
-A screwdriver (whatever the size is when you open the back cover, the four screws you see, that size)
-A small flat head screwdriver if you have one (not necessary but would help)
-Patience and some common sense.
Ok, to start off follow these steps http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=740022 to open the first 6 screws and then how to pop open the screen from the bezel(this is when a flat head screwdriver would be useful).
(go just to the step till the fifth picture in that thread, no need to go beyond that opening things!)
Now, you would see a screw on the left of the speaker. Now, other threads said that by loosening that screw the speaker would work. But, I did that and still had issues so I opened the phone like 4 times in total before I found out what it was. Now, notice that the speaker unit has a cable (orange colored) running into the main phone chip. It is connected there through which it functions. When you open that above mentioned thread to open the phone there is a picture showing to remove the that belt from the board. Follow that instructions, flip that tiny black clip up to remove the belt. In some cases there might be a blue sticker kind of thing on the belt, just take off that sticker. The problem seems that the belt is loosing contact which doesn't allow the speaker to get the sound input to put out sound through the speaker. So, take off the belt by flipping that switch and re insert it out there. Try to push it in properly or enough to align a white line on the belt and the chip. There is a white line to guide us there. That line should be totally straight when the belt is inserted appropriately. And now, flip that clip down and lock it. If you have loosened the screw left to the speaker, put it back in in normal force not excessive(no need to be more gentle here). You cannot leave it loose because it makes the whole unit move when it is loose eventually pulling off the belt from its place which causes the sound cut outs. The whole trick is to get the belt right in its place. So, make sure it is tight but not extra tight after you have managed to get the belt right. Put everything back together and now when you screw the last 6 screws again, the one in the top speaker corner affects the speaker unit, so don't push it too hard in. Just normal screwing. The rest should be done properly with normal force. This should solve it. I figured this out after opening the phone 4 times. And now playing songs since the past 6 hours non stop and its back in action again!
For all this, i did put in the battery and start the phone when I had opened it and tried messing around and figured out what was killing the sound, so this should be the ultimate solution to it. There is nothing else that can be affecting it now.
Most people must had faced this because they dropped their phones before which made the belt to move and hence the loose contacts inside. If not then, there are high chances that you bought it from someone or somewhere who had dropped it before!
Well that's it! Also, don't freak out in having to open the phone. You should just go to the step till the fifth picture. Which is very easily achievable!
Go, have fun with your WORKING speakers now!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This worked on mine, thank you!!!

don't know why but i can't get that battery latch to move down to get the two remaining screws

disellusional said:
don't know why but i can't get that battery latch to move down to get the two remaining screws
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
after sliding it down just lift it slightly in the middle, it flexes up and then slides down about another half inch.

[Q] Opening lower case plastic flap

Morning!
Has anyone yet taken a closer look at the lower plastic flap of the case? The upper one with the power key opens readily to accept the SIM Card, but there also is a gap of about the same size on the lower part of the phone, just below the beatsaudio logo. This one has no opening to pry open with the fingernail, but i could nudge and move it a little by ever so gently prying with a tiny flathead screwdriver. There also is a small hole pointing within this flap on the very bottom of the phone.
Q: What is the hole? Drainage hole in case the phone gets a soaking bath? Hardreset microswitch? Or is it maybe a releaser that unhooks the flap and allows for easy removal (similar to the holes beneath DVD-Drive trays to remove a disk if the Drive is broken)?
I am trying to figure this out as of now, but for the life of my I cannot find a slim enough needle to get into the hole. Guess I will need to grind / file something down to see if something happens when inserting it.
Has anyone investigated this yet? Anything interesting beyond or is it just a second flap with additional antennas and no access to interesting bits and pieces?

Wonder is it where the battery placed? Perhaps there are website trying to disassemble One S to see is it easy to replace the internal battery.

If you are referring to the tiny hole at the bottom of the phone, that hole is the mic. Wouldn't advice on putting anything in there

lol its the microphone. in almost all devices it is locates there

Funniest sunday topic
You made me laugh... I remember first iphone users were talking about " OMG one of two speakers under the phone doesnt work OMG OMG "...And someone told them " It is mic ! " LOL....

psych0t1c said:
Morning!
Has anyone yet taken a closer look at the lower plastic flap of the case? The upper one with the power key opens readily to accept the SIM Card, but there also is a gap of about the same size on the lower part of the phone, just below the beatsaudio logo. This one has no opening to pry open with the fingernail, but i could nudge and move it a little by ever so gently prying with a tiny flathead screwdriver. There also is a small hole pointing within this flap on the very bottom of the phone.
Q: What is the hole? Drainage hole in case the phone gets a soaking bath? Hardreset microswitch? Or is it maybe a releaser that unhooks the flap and allows for easy removal (similar to the holes beneath DVD-Drive trays to remove a disk if the Drive is broken)?
I am trying to figure this out as of now, but for the life of my I cannot find a slim enough needle to get into the hole. Guess I will need to grind / file something down to see if something happens when inserting it.
Has anyone investigated this yet? Anything interesting beyond or is it just a second flap with additional antennas and no access to interesting bits and pieces?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't yet have the HOS. But I can tell you that the little hole in the bottom of the HOS is the phone mic...
And be aware that doing what you intend to do will eventually void your warranty... but go right ahead... it's not my money if you screw things up...

I have taken apart enough devices to know what I am doing (except for the stupidity of not considering the mic hole because they have becme so invisible these days that its easy to just forget about them heh...).
I changed broken digitizers on DHD and did a complete disassembly / reassembly of a Desire Z that took an Soda bath and both devices work to this day. I am just hell of curios regarding the PCB layout of the One S, mainly for the storage question (soldered or aftermarket slotted microsd mounted under the hood)
And FYI, under the lower flap is just another boring antenna and another plastic cover, no more screws like behind the top flap. Do't have the right tools here to go any further without actually risking damage, but after easter I will have a closer look at it in the company. Unless iFixit comes out with a disassembly tutorial faster than that hehe.
Warranty? Well warranty. I've had a few devices now from HTC and none ever had to go to service. And with the knowledge of how to fix it comes the option of just paying for the OEM spare part from some retailer later on and fixing it yourself in 1 day instead of sending your phone in and waiting on it to come back for 1 week or 10 days.
But thanks for the hint, I might have actually forgotten about that.

U12+ Display replacement

Hi guys
Sadly I have a cracked display...so there are no spare parts available and the shops in Germany would like to have something around 500€.
I changed in the past some Sony-Displays and thought about doing myself. I found on aliexpress some U12+Displays.
Sadly I didnt found a single "manual" or how to, to do this right - anyone can help?
Best regards

Maybe these vids from JerryRigEverything can help you out.
Good luck!
Sent from my HTC U12+ using XDA Labs

https://tinyurl.com/htcu12

Just replaced mine
majomathes said:
Hi guys
Sadly I have a cracked display...so there are no spare parts available and the shops in Germany would like to have something around 500€.
I changed in the past some Sony-Displays and thought about doing myself. I found on aliexpress some U12+Displays.
Sadly I didnt found a single "manual" or how to, to do this right - anyone can help?
Best regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just replaced mine yesterday and it was more difficult than any other one I've done in the past. Anyway I never found one single video on YouTube that showed the screen removal and pretty much had to play it by ear. There are a few videos that show the disassembly of the U12+ and each stops before removing the screen. My advice is to remove everything from the frame, I managed to piece together enough from the videos to know there are 15 screws to remove, one video said 14 but there's one more that's hidden until you've gotten under the motherboard holding the front facing cameras. Knowing I wanted to keep it simple I didn't remove all of the antenna wires, there's one at the bottom that's under the speaker cover that I left attached so I only disconnected it from the motherboard. Then the other I only disconnected near the vibrator, leaving it connected at the motherboard, so each piece had one wire that stayed connected. Meanwhile you'll have to undo every other plug on the device and with a little persuasion everything fell out. (Don't attempt to remove the button/pressure sensing strips along the sides!) Once you are down to the frame, and for me the ear piece speaker, I used a heat gun to soften the bond between the glass and the frame. It doesn't loosen up very easily, they are really bonded together. I got most of it and then began to chip away at the broken glass. You'll want a good heat gun for this part. I had to set mine to 300F to really get it to loosen up and then work mm by mm around the edge getting all of the glass and glue out of the track. This probably took me a half hour or more. I used E6000 glue but only because I would have had to order B7000 or any other recommended glue. E6000 is a good glue but just because many of the other videos I watched used B7000 I would have liked to use it too.
To install the new screen I used a syringe filled with my glue to follow the small glue track around the edge of the frame. Don't worry about squeeze out because this glue is very forgiving and wipes away easily with IPA Alcohol and a rag. I followed the old glue placement, adding a little extra near the bottom corners and a dab around the ear piece speaker holes. Then it's just reversing the process to assemble the electronics. Now here is another word of warning, the plugs are so small and some are not easy to align but be sure they snap into place and are flat when installed. I made the mistake of not getting the display plug flat and had to do a partial disassembly to correct the issue.
I didn't glue the back on but think I might today just to try and achieve the waterproof level the phone shipped with. You may have to glue yours but I had previously broken the back and already replaced it and the replacement came with a double sided adhesive strip that was still pretty sticky. If I remember correctly the original back was glued on and probably wouldn't have stuck if I had tried to just replace the back as I did.
One other note. After being disassembled and pulling the battery my finger print scanner didn't want to work. In fact it didn't even show up in the menu when I went looking for it but restarting the phone again caused it to show up. My advantage with the double sided adhesive was I was able to test everything and use the phone for a full day before committing to gluing the back on. Now that I know everything is working, the phone is charging and it all seems good I can glue the back on.
Best of luck