Related
Would it be possible do modify the Photon Q's battery at all? Like replace it with a RAZR MAXX HD's battery? I can't find dimensions on either battery or anything like that.
I was also wondering if it'd be possible to maybe take apart a battery (perhaps two Photon Q batteries) and somehow put them all in sequence and have it work like that. I'm a noob when it comes to these types of things. Any help is greatly appreciated!
You would have to get the measurements of both batteries and compare the sizes to see if the RAZR batt will fit. It looks to be the same voltage and chemistry.
You cant use multiple cells without special circuitry for charging. The best option is to find a larger cell of the same chemistry and voltage then mod the phone to hold it. Also, you would probably have to sacrifice a working battery to get the connector.
I added a larger cell to my Motorola Triumph
androidforums.com/showthread.php?t=763108
Sent from my XT897
mozzwald said:
You would have to get the measurements of both batteries and compare the sizes to see if the RAZR batt will fit. It looks to be the same voltage and chemistry.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not easy to get that info, but looks like the RAZR battery, altough surely electrically compatible is not the same size.
Razer's one is 1.5 cm longer, and is also narrower.
You cant use multiple cells without special circuitry for charging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, surely you can't put two "smart" batteries in parallel from the outside, but it's feasible opening the battery and connecting properly the cells, internally.
But this must be done by someone who really knows what should be done, to avoid risky situations.
You can connect multiple cells in parallel but it's not a good idea without a proper circuit to charge the cells. Over time the cells will need charged at different rates.
Sent from my XT897
mozzwald said:
You can connect multiple cells in parallel but it's not a good idea without a proper circuit to charge the cells. Over time the cells will need charged at different rates.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On small batteries like the one you can find on a cellphone "Proper circuit" could be just a couple of resistors to balance the "neighbor" cells.
I'ts way different on bigger batteries, like notebooks' or electric cars' ones.
Given the increased energy stored (and the increased risk) in the latter cases the charging circuitry checks every single cell, not the whole battery as happens on cellphones.
So doubling the capacity of such batteries is a completely different matter, a complete redesign of the charging circuitry (and battery firmware) is needed.
Alright, so I'm pretty sure I've this all figured out except for one thing. What the crap is this green..... thing on the back of the battery? It's like superglued onto it and I'm thinking it's an antenna of some kind, perhaps for NFC.
BUT, I can basically just connect the RAZR Maxx battery like this to mah phone I'm thinking. (see image)
goldbolt said:
Alright, so I'm pretty sure I've this all figured out except for one thing. What the crap is this green..... thing on the back of the battery? It's like superglued onto it and I'm thinking it's an antenna of some kind, perhaps for NFC.
BUT, I can basically just connect the RAZR Maxx battery like this to mah phone I'm thinking. (see image)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
EB40 (Razr Maxx) and EB41 (Photon Q/Droid 4) batteries have completely different dimensions.
kabaldan said:
EB40 and EB41 have completely different dimensions.
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Click to collapse
Yeah, I know this. I'll just wire it like in my image similar to what the other dude in this thread did with his Triumph.
This is why I wish Samsung would've made an S3 slider.
goldbolt said:
Yeah, I know this. I'll just wire it like in my image similar to what the other dude in this thread did with his Triumph.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wiring a different battery is definitely possible.
I did it on a HD2 clone, using a Mugen battery meant for the Palm PRE.
The hardest part is to find a battery with the correct dimensions, usually find the right one is just matter of luck, given is hard to know the exact dimensions of a battery before buying it.
There's finally an extended battery (3800mAh) available for Droid 4.
(Droid 4 comes with the same EB41 battery as Photon Q).
So there's a battery that should fit (apart from its thickness, obviously).
The main issue is that there's no back cover for Photon Q to fit this battery.
http://mugen.co/motorola/verizon-mo...rizon-motorola-droid-4-with-battery-door.html
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360809183555
We need 3d printer for back covers!
Or just wait a few month, I think that the back cover will come for the XT897.
kabaldan said:
The main issue is that there's no back cover for Photon Q to fit this battery.
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Click to collapse
The main issua, as usual for the mugen batteries, is the price.
89$ is more than what I paid the whole Photon Q.
Or, if you prefer, is 15x the price of the original extended motorola battery I'm using on the Phonton 4G
i just wrote to mugen power an email and asked if there is the possibility for a extended battery, as the droid 4 battery fits in the photon and only a bigger backcover is needed. this is what they replayed to me:
Thank you for your email!
I will pass it to our technology and marketing group to see will them make the cover for photon Q.
Will let you know later!
Please contact me if you need any additional info.
Best Regards,
Jan
http://mugen.co
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
so maybe we have some luck
pujdo1 said:
i just wrote to mugen power an email and asked if there is the possibility for a extended battery, as the droid 4 battery fits in the photon and only a bigger backcover is needed. this is what they replayed to me:
so maybe we have some luck
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just got a Photon Q so I would certainly love if they made a back cover but am doubting they will. Thought of just buying a second cover on ebay and cutting it / using some epoxy to make my own with the Droid 4 battery.
Dual Battery Photon Q
I know, seems insane but I've been running my phone like this for the past year and have even made a second one which is also running fine. Reason why I did this was because I'd bought a Photon Q in the summer of 2014 (previously with Verizon). The phone was brand new but the battery has been on the shelf so long that it was crap by the time it got to me. So I went and bought a replacement batter on Amazon. It already being a two year old phone, the replacement batteries went for only about $8. So I bought two. Upon receipt, I inspected it an thought of possibly soldering the two together to see what would happen.
Initially, I soldered the primary contacts of both batteries to each other (including the PCB), which didn't work. On my second attempt, I disassembled the housing for the PCB and soldered just the leads of the cells together and kept the PCB of one of the batteries. It powered on and worked properly. In fact, with two batteries, it seemed as so the phone worked faster than it did prior. I'm assuming more stable voltage.
Anywho, if anyone wants a 16 hour Photon Q, this mod works. The only thing that's off though is the battery meter. Since I don't know how to reprogram the PCB, the phone will hit 3% battery life after eight hours of use but will continue on for another eight hours. I've been using my phone like this for about a year now and it also seemed to have learned the new battery life. In recent days, the phone would actually shut off soon after the 3% warning. The second phone came into play because the touch screen stopped working. I tried to fix it but ended up breaking my phone instead.
I know I know. I'm crazy for allowing a lithium cell to be that closely exposed to the atmosphere. Whatevers, yolo. Anyways, the antenna is sandwiched between the two cells, back cover chopped up with a razor, and if you're fans of the car dock, you can take off the top layer, chop off what you need to accomodate the battery, and glue the remainder of the top layer back to the base. Like a glove!
---------- Post added at 06:50 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:10 AM ----------
Here are some close ups of the twin cell itself
Twin Cell Battery
http://forum.xda-developers.com/album.php?albumid=12422
I'm not sure what the general opinion here is on thread necromancy vs posting something there are already threads on, I'm looking for a good power bank that won't break my wallet- or my devices! Also, thanks for that checkbox warning, I almost posted this in general > accessories! (Where all the other threads I found with this kind of subject were, but... oh well. )
I'm looking at the Lumsing 5X right now... (Google it, I can't post links yet. 11000mAh, $26, 5 USB ports at the different ratings) it's the cheapest one I've found that's actually in a "top _" list when googling for power banks... but still, I'm worried about getting ripped off on recycled batteries ( or a charger filled with bags of sand!), and I'm trying to look into AA chargers, but... well, they're really hard to search for and don't seem to provide any specifications!
Plus a AA charger would be great since I could get an 8-pack of Imedions and use the extra batteries for my other stuff, or a quick battery swap, and easier replacement... Batteries do wear out over time, after all.
But my god is it a pain in the ass trying to find them, let alone ones that have a 1-2 amp charging capacity. or even seeing which ones bothered to include a power regulating board at all! I already got a Rayovac one from walmart when I got overexcited seeing it and made an impulse buy... only rated for 500 mAh, according to the casing upon opening the box. I'll be returning that...
It almost feels like my best bet, if I really want a AA based power brick that bad ( I don't) is to order the regulating circuit and put it together myself.
So, does anyone happen to already have a good AA bank and could tell me what they use? After all, the power brick I linked is the same price as the Imedon batteries alone... I would prefer to avoid paying more than 30 or so for the brick, 40 for the AA one + batteries.
Perhaps the one mentioned, but not by name, in this post?:
Mister B said:
I'm using a 4cell AA powerpack, I use Uniross Hybrio 2,200mAh cells.
Modified it to support fast charge & it work very well & cost me $15 all in, plus recharge cells can be easily & cheaply replaced making it a long term cheap servicable solution and also standard AA cells can be loaded if no main power available ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got the Lumising. Thanks for all the help, everyone that replied; I REALLY appreciate it.
I'll report back when it gets here and say if it's poop-tier or not.
Finally drained the lumising.
It powered:
3 recharges of my Samsung Google Nexus (1750 battery) from 15%, being accidentially left on overnight once
1 recharge from red of my 3DS XL (1750) while playing Pokemon X, on the most power intensive settings.
1 recharge of my Nook 1st Edition (1250) from 15%, while reading
I did have some problems with the pack turning itself off while charging my Nook, and the Nook not registering that it's being charged, but that device does have a badly damaged USB port, so I'll let that slide even though I don't have problems with the AC plug as long as I'm careful about the device end of the USB cable.
All in all, I got approxomately 7000 mAh of charge, plus powering the devices' battery usage during the time spent charging. Not bad, when you consider that a good portion of the energy also disappears into the conversion process from the 3.1v lithium battery to the 5v standard USB ports, and then back from the USB standard to the 3.1v lithium batteries inside the devices.
The pack itself takes bloody ages to charge though, and didn't come with it's own charger. But that's to be expected, I suppose. It can only draw 1-1.5a of current while charging, according to the ratings on the brick, so no taking advantage of the full speed of a 2.1a USB wall adapter, if you have one. The short owner's manual that came with it is engrish-y, but understandable, and there are some minor discrepancies in the information stated on the Amazon page, the package, the manual, and the device itself.
For example, it seems to just turn itself off when it has a single flashing light and won't output any charge, but the manual explicitly states that a single flashing light means 10% charge, and that the remaining battery can still be used at that point. Besides that, though, the display from 4 lights to 1 seemed to accurately represent how much power it still had available in comparison to how much I had already used from it. As accurately as it can with only 4 lights, anyway.
An undocumented feature is that the lights will also start staying solid at the same 25% thresholds during charging.
Cosmetically, whatever material the case is made out of attracts fingerprints and skin oils like a high-strength neodymium magnet, and some of the protective plastics are so closely attached they look like they're just part of the case at first, but they mention that in the follow-up email after ordering. All of the edges, including around the on/off button, are a little rough, and the recessed design of said button makes it a bit difficult to press; I have to jab at it with the corner of a fingernail to push it easily; otherwise I'm just kinda pushing on the face of the device while my skin squishes into the shallow hole that the already concave button is in. The pouch is very nice, but it feels like overkill when the device itself is so impossible to keep clean and fancy-looking. Good place to keep all adapters from USB to various other plugs, though.
I suppose that's not bad for just under $27 spent.
Again, thank you all so very much for your assistance in my decision.
Hey guys,
eveybody wants to keep the old tablet, but what about the actual potential fire hazard? I'm sure nobody wants to risk their life or that of others.
So my question: Is the battery a risk by itself? Or can the overheating issue be controlled my reducing the heat inside the tablet (i.e. lowering voltages, CPU frequencies, charging less aggressive, etc)?
I can't seem to find any information about that but I find it hard to believe that nobody actually cares.
Cheers
This page says that there were only 4 reported cases of overheating so far, so I wouldn't worry too much. And even if you are still worried, you can remove the battery and have the tablet only get powered through USB (as it can still make a good HTPC or similar).
Yeah I'd like to keep using the tablet as is, hence the question. In the link it says "overheating due to thermal runaway" but I can't quite figure out why that happens.
Maybe somebody here knows a little more details about the way the battery functions and if it's an issue originating from the battery or just external heat that the battery can't handle. I'd guess it's a manufacturing defect but I hope it's just a "weak" battery.
I'd like to yank the battery and only have it as a TV based system. However when I pulled the battery, the tablet won't turn on. I'm sure I have to complete the circuit. Can I just get a resistance reading from the battery and solder in a resistor of the same rating?
scorpionx said:
I'd like to yank the battery and only have it as a TV based system. However when I pulled the battery, the tablet won't turn on. I'm sure I have to complete the circuit. Can I just get a resistance reading from the battery and solder in a resistor of the same rating?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://forum.xda-developers.com/shi...let-due-to-t3169461/post62305413#post62305413
hansi223 said:
In the link it says "overheating due to thermal runaway" but I can't quite figure out why that happens.
Maybe somebody here knows a little more details about the way the battery functions and if it's an issue originating from the battery or just external heat that the battery can't handle. I'd guess it's a manufacturing defect but I hope it's just a "weak" battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't take my word as the absolute truth, but basically:
Do a search for phones catching fire and you'll see reports of many devices that have experienced it - from Apple to Samsung, etc.
All lithium batteries are classified as dangerous goods in general. (At least in Canada: https://www.tc.gc.ca/eng/tdg/lithium-batteries-are-dangerous-goods-1162.html )
When they've been subjected to damage (drops, bumps, punctures, crushed) the risks increase significantly. A battery can short itself internally (regardless if the device it's in is powered on or off or charging; or even if the battery is sitting out loose disconnected).
A shorted battery (not just lithiums for that matter) result in an extremely high current drain internally (mathematically, it would be infinite but realistically that's not the case) which results in extreme heat which can lead to fire or explosion and the release of toxic fumes - the potential for the fire to spread is the real risk. Some batteries simply swell up and fail.
We've seen numerous reports of swelled Shield batteries and a reported 4 cases of fire, 2 of which lead to "floor damage" - could have been much worse (again, just do a generic search for any device regarding battery fires). How many bumps/drops these devices were subjected to is unknown though..
A lithium battery could be considered "safer" once it's been completely drained of energy (and since lithiums are never drained completely, they're never 100% safe; and even then, the chemicals themselves are still highly flammable).
Sent from my SHIELD Tablet using XDA Free mobile app
Thanks for the detailed explanation!
From what you said I would assume that any battery is like the Shield battery with the only difference being Nvidia got cold feet and wanted to avoid negative PR, getting sued, whatever. While I can understand that part, I still have a hard time trusting a tablet/battery that has been declared faulty.
So if its the battery itself then lowering voltages/frequencies to keep the device cooler wouldn't make any difference, right?
hansi223 said:
Thanks for the detailed explanation!
From what you said I would assume that any battery is like the Shield battery with the only difference being Nvidia got cold feet and wanted to avoid negative PR, getting sued, whatever.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No.
nVidia has deemed that the batteries ARE defective AND pose a fire risk.
Upon inspection of the batteries, they identified a fault (in manufacturing/workmanship, etc.). They've determined the fault serious enough to warrant a world wide recall of ~100,000 tablets.
You can draw your own conclusions and make your own decisions based on that.
Sent from my SHIELD Tablet using XDA Free mobile app
Does anyone have a source for replacement batteries?
if I approached the ear to the back of old tablet while working (i.e. Antutu benchmark) I hear a noise like that of hard drives for PC. It is definitely the bad battery. No noise with the new tablet. It happens to you?
I think the best solution is to replace the battery but I have not found one with the same size and characteristics.
Inviato dal mio SHIELD Tablet con Tapatalk 2
ivanfix said:
if I approached the ear to the back of old tablet while working (i.e. Antutu benchmark) I hear a noise like that of hard drives for PC. It is definitely the bad battery. No noise with the new tablet. It happens to you?
I think the best solution is to replace the battery but I have not found one with the same size and characteristics.
Inviato dal mio SHIELD Tablet con Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, the sound you hear is the coil whine, not from the battery but the chokes. See coil whine.
All the similar sized batteries seem to be from dealers/manufacturers outside the US and who knows the quality of those. I'm not sure I'd trust a replacement battery anymore than the one that has been working fine for 80,000+ users and myself for the last year. The number of tablets that have overheated\caught fire is 4 of 88,000? That's %0.0000454545 percent of failures that ended in a fire. I am not encouraging or condoning anyone to use a Y01 battery tablet, but as to OPs question I think the risk is pretty low.
scarywoody said:
All the similar sized batteries seem to be from dealers/manufacturers outside the US and who knows the quality of those. I'm not sure I'd trust a replacement battery anymore than the one that has been working fine for 80,000+ users and myself for the last year. The number of tablets that have overheated\caught fire is 4 of 88,000? That's %0.0000454545 percent of failures that ended in a fire. I am not encouraging or condoning anyone to use a Y01 battery tablet, but as to OPs question I think the risk is pretty low.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
CPU-Z reported my battery at 90 degrees Celsius after 20 minutes of Time Clickers. The back of my tablet was beyond uncomfortable to hold but not damaging to my hands and my tablet has heated to the point of shutting down. No fires yet but I'm not pushing my luck
scarywoody said:
The number of tablets that have overheated\caught fire is 4 of 88,000? That's %0.0000454545 percent of failures that ended in a fire.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I make it 0.0045%. A low percentage but high stakes (bad things happen when houses catch fire, and lithium battery fires can be explosive). Also this is the number that have failed in the first year of life. Subsequent years may have a higher rate of failures as the batteries degrade.
Gentlemen,
I have successfully swapped out my battery in my Nvidia Shield Tablet K1! I was so excited about doing it! I wanted to get some practice soldering, as this was my first time, so I tried it out while swapping this battery here. I don't think my job was great, just adequate. I'm going to document the process here so that you guys who want to try can benefit. :good:
Without further adieu....
Since I couldn't post what I wanted to here, I did the write up on Google Photos instead. Here's the link to the pictures and my instructions to go along with them.
Link to gallery of photos + FULL WRITE UP here - https://photos.app.goo.gl/4jlzvnHpoBXwffOn1 :highfive:
I'm a little disappointed that the cells don't hold advertised charge. Take a look at my picture here from AccuBattery with the "new" swapped battery installed. It's basically only 83% effective out of the box.
Please give me a thumbs :good: up here or send me any gratitude if you felt this post has helped you in anyway. I really like this community. :laugh:
Shoot me any questions you may have on my battery swap on this thread here.
Cheers!
-Elo
Updates?
It's been a couple weeks since you posted this battery replacement, how has your tablet held up? Have you noticed if the battery charge levels have regularized, or is it still operating at a lower capacity than advertised? Also, any power quirks to note?
jp.esteban said:
It's been a couple weeks since you posted this battery replacement, how has your tablet held up? Have you noticed if the battery charge levels have regularized, or is it still operating at a lower capacity than advertised? Also, any power quirks to note?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey JP,
Thanks for the questions. I'd be more than happy to answer them. The tablet has held up great! No weird issues or problems since swapping out the battery. The levels have regularized, as it were, around 81% of stated capacity. That's around 4100mah, so it's still operating at a lower capacity than advertised, unfortunately. No power quirks to note. :good:
I would say, that to anyone who's going to undertake this, it's not worth it unless your battery is about 50-60% of stated value (5100mah). I had about 75% in my old battery and it wasn't worth it to gain only 6% or so. It's so sad that there is no OEM Nvidia Replacement Battery for your Shield Tablet.
THat's why I think so many people are selling this tablet now -- the battery is finally giving out after 2-3+ years... The best thing that you can do if you want this tablet to last another 2 years with awesome battery life is to buy another Shield Tablet as "NEW" as you can find it. You might luck out if you can get a used original Shield Tablet that has a B01 battery installed.
That's my two cents anyhow. Kinda sad unfortunately, but the swap is absolutely working well...shame it's just CRAP batteries to replace your nice OEM one with!
-Elo
The results speak for themselves ?? Unless your battery is completely shot, you're not getting the whole 5100mah. I'm getting about 80% after a month. Not getting any better! Considering selling this tablet for the Huawei Mediapad M5 ... So sad.
Hello there
I tried and probably was successful swapping the battery (the good one) with another korean one <<[V071] 3.8V,3.7V 5000mAh [3565153] NTC; Polymer lithium ion / Li-ion battery for tablet pc,POWER BANK,cell phone;GPS>>. The oem one suddenly didn t charge at all.... after a lot of reading decided to order a cheap one to check if battery was the problem.
It shipped two days ago and went straight to an electronic guy i knew for soldering the new battery to the old controller. It came alive!!! Had some problems with the solder since the pads are electropods and need another method with a heating pistol or something. Never the less we solder it . What i ve noticed.....
1. I didn't measure the battery but it lasted the day with gaming.
2. After 20 mins of playing the tablet was way to hot than the previous battery to a point that i couldnt handle it...felt discomfort....the screen was warmer also.
3.Battery went to 10% and that s it.Since then i cant charge it anymore...stays at 10%
Do you think its a problem with the battery board and as many batteries i change ill have the same result?
Thnakyou in advance
OG Shield Tablet
First: Thanks for the tutorial! The photography/documentation was very helpful and allowed me to do my own swap.
I decided to try the same surgery on my OG (pyro) Shield Tablet; The battery capacity had fallen to about 2000mah and it was starting to run a bit hot so... it was time.
I used a combination of your notes and a YouTube video found at...
(can't post external links on new accounts, but the video is called "How To - Nvidia Shield Tablet Battery Swap")
Notes
I used a new-old-stock Padphone battery, Asus branded, labelled 5100mah @ 3.75v
The white "whatever module" found on the positive lead on the K1 is found on the negative side on the OG. Still need to keep it, but keep it on the negative side.
Snipping the battery leads (rather than prying them off) from the original battery<->control board gives you more/longer material to work with (such that you don't need extra wires). Effectively this gives the controller board longish "tabs" of its own to bridge the connection.
The metal lead sandwich is a little trickier (than wires) in terms of soldering jobs; definitely not my best work. Liquid flux helped a lot here.
Capacity is still working itself out (going to need a few full discharges) but it looks like it's going to come in around the 3800-4000mah mark; Not bad for a battery that has probably been sitting on a shelf for years.
That's about it. Everything else went fine.
Agreed on difficulty in prying off tabs - Getting the leads/tabs pried off the new battery's control board is a brutal task. I wonder if, with the longer tabs (created by stealing them from the old battery), one could just snip-off the new battery's board... and still have enough material to make the bridge (just over top of the welded-on tab remnants). Didn't think of that at the time... No reason for it not to work.
Anyway, thanks again for the guide!
No offense but man your soldering is awful!
Your photos were exactly what I needed to find a battery though! Here's a link to it on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DM29PTY/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00
I just cut the tabs off the old battery to make it easier to work with the control board. The tabs are spot welded to small metal plates that are then soldered to the PCB. You can very carefully rip the left over tabs off then you can easily desolder the left over metal tabs leaving just the clean PCB to solder the new battery tabs to. The correct tool is a heat gun (Rework Station), but I don't have one so I managed with a soldering iron. (I managed to change the charging port with the same soldering iron, that was a *****)
The 'Unknown white thing" is a Thermal cutoff. If it gets too hot it opens, disconnecting the battery from the device. I posted a link to a replacement as a comment to the photo on google.
Note: The device did not turn on until I plugged the charger in. Apparently the control board needs the input to switch on the battery.
Thank you. We've had our K1 for several years now and to replace it with one as powerful isn't cheap. The whole family uses it for playing games and watching videos.
It's great to see that people are successfully doing this. Main thing is keeping that board in good condition, else all is lost, the tablet will not boot up. It's also sad to see that no tablet out there except maybe the iPads can walk toe to toe with the shield tablet performance wise. But I'm looking for a replacement and would love to know if I'm wrong...
I've got a shield tablet I bought about 4 years ago, and it's still going strong. But for you guys looking for a good replacement, I bought a Huawei M5, and it's the best tablet I've ever had. Much faster and more powerful than my K1. The last time I saw a brand new K1 for sale, the price was $500 U.S. Theyre nice, but... But I do have three old nexus tablets that need new batteries, so this info goes a long way in helping for those as well. Thanks
There are a couple options
Alden Andrade said:
It's great to see that people are successfully doing this. Main thing is keeping that board in good condition, else all is lost, the tablet will not boot up. It's also sad to see that no tablet out there except maybe the iPads can walk toe to toe with the shield tablet performance wise. But I'm looking for a replacement and would love to know if I'm wrong...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great to see some people still getting benefit from this tutorial! A lot has changed for me and "tablet" Android gaming over the past year. Basically my journey went like this - Nvidia Tablet K1 => Huawei Mediapad M5 => Honor Note 10 => Huawei Mate 20X.
Now I love the 8" form-factor, but couldn't find the power to play all games that I wanted for several years to come. I could have gone with the Xiaomi Mi4, but it was a little slower (in RAW processing power) than even the Mediapad M5. I like the Kirin set of chipsets, even if their GPUs aren't as great as NVidia's or Snapdragon's, but they have great optimization for their hardware.
Also the Mate 20X is a little more portable while still having a "somewhat" big screen compared to the tablets. If I was really hardcore about gaming on a tablet, there's little reason *NOT* to go to Apple, as they JUST refreshed the iPad Mini, but I love Android too much to ever consider doing that
Anyhow, I'll wrap up this long post saying the main reasons I switched, even though the Shield Tablet K1 was one of the best Tablets I have ever owned -- It came down to battery life. I couldn't get more than 2.5 hours of screen on time for most games, whether they were through GRID, native Android, or emulation. My Huawei Mate 20X gets about 9 hours of screen on time while gaming, and that's on a BAD day (most time I get like 10 hours or so). So, a massive 5000 mAH battery with a 7" inch screen is a win for me, while the processor is super fast, and the screen is good. Plus, being able to play certain games on the Play Store (like Final Fantasy XV Pocket Edition) that I couldn't on the Shield Tablet K1, was awesome. That's why I left the Shield Tablet behind. :crying:
Enjoy those Tabs while you can! Shame that Samsung discontinue the Galaxy Tab S series 8.4 inch devices... would've bought that instead last year.
-Elo
I changed mine out as well. Found a comparable sized 6000mah battery, 3.8v, on AliExpress. It still says it's a 5100mah on cpu-z as I reused the old battery's circuit board, which I assume tells the device what it is. Not sure if I see a great increase but it is up and working. No heat issues, other than gaming which it always got warm gaming something like Half Life or Oddworld.
drarbo1 said:
I changed mine out as well. Found a comparable sized 6000mah battery, 3.8v, on AliExpress. It still says it's a 5100mah on cpu-z as I reused the old battery's circuit board, which I assume tells the device what it is. Not sure if I see a great increase but it is up and working. No heat issues, other than gaming which it always got warm gaming something like Half Life or Oddworld.
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How as your battery life been since the replacement compared to stock? I think my original battery is starting to fade, it gets relatively hot and loses charge fast now on the original battery. Do you have a link to the one you installed? Thanks.
bigcletus said:
How as your battery life been since the replacement compared to stock? I think my original battery is starting to fade, it gets relatively hot and loses charge fast now on the original battery. Do you have a link to the one you installed? Thanks.
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I bought this one, https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32807442206.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.78584c4dqP3CHO. I really can't say I was super impressed but it's not dying fast, which I believe it was. I took it and my son's, he almost never used his but just about as old, we have the original models with the stylus, anyway I put them side by side with the same 24 hour rain YouTube video and they lasted about exactly the same. I can't remember how many hours of that YouTube play they lasted, maybe around 5-6 hours straight. It's been a while since I did that experiment.
---------- Post added at 03:42 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:53 AM ----------
There are two connections from the original battery to the battery logic board. I pried them off and just soldered the two leads from the AliExpress batt and used some tape to keep it in place. Plenty room for this new batt. I did not dissect the new batt to remove the board it comes with. The tablet does get warm gaming more intensive games, but not unlike it did prior to the batt swap. Pretty much the back gets warm but I'm not sure that's the batt or the processor. I did see some heat sync paste back there but no real metal for it to dissipate to. Doesn't get any warmer than my LTE model I haven't changed the batt on.
---------- Post added at 03:48 AM ---------- Previous post was at 03:42 AM ----------
And when I swapped the batt I had to plug the power cord in to get it to come on. Then I unplugged it to completely drain the batt. I read somewhere to do that the first time then recharge, leaving it for a good day. I still go in my settings and select no more than one background process and a custom power setting with 1 to 4 cores, 1 when there's little demand, and I think I limit my fps to 30, without looking. I'm writing from the very tablet now.
What about Nintendo switch batteries too thick?
drarbo1 said:
I bought this one, https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32807442206.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.78584c4dqP3CHO. I really can't say I was super impressed but it's not dying fast, which I believe it was. I took it and my son's, he almost never used his but just about as old, we have the original models with the stylus, anyway I put them side by side with the same 24 hour rain YouTube video and they lasted about exactly the same. I can't remember how many hours of that YouTube play they lasted, maybe around 5-6 hours straight. It's been a while since I did that experiment.
---------- Post added at 03:42 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:53 AM ----------
There are two connections from the original battery to the battery logic board. I pried them off and just soldered the two leads from the AliExpress batt and used some tape to keep it in place. Plenty room for this new batt. I did not dissect the new batt to remove the board it comes with. The tablet does get warm gaming more intensive games, but not unlike it did prior to the batt swap. Pretty much the back gets warm but I'm not sure that's the batt or the processor. I did see some heat sync paste back there but no real metal for it to dissipate to. Doesn't get any warmer than my LTE model I haven't changed the batt on.
---------- Post added at 03:48 AM ---------- Previous post was at 03:42 AM ----------
And when I swapped the batt I had to plug the power cord in to get it to come on. Then I unplugged it to completely drain the batt. I read somewhere to do that the first time then recharge, leaving it for a good day. I still go in my settings and select no more than one background process and a custom power setting with 1 to 4 cores, 1 when there's little demand, and I think I limit my fps to 30, without looking. I'm writing from the very tablet now.
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I ordered this battery 2x a week ago because I have 2 original Shields and waiting for delivery now.
Will report here after I swapped the original battery for this one.
Yeah, I saw someone on eBay selling that very battery for over $30. Probably buys them like I did and sells them for more on eBay.
---------- Post added at 02:24 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:20 AM ----------
I'd say that the most important item in that tablet, if it is inoperable, would be that battery logic or protection board. It has 4 wires which I might know what three of them are for but not the fourth. I think a green wire. And because I reused that battery board, it will still show up to the tablet as a 5100mah battery, no matter the size you connect to it.
I replaced the battery (the one that was posted above from Aliexpress) of one of my Shield Tablets and it fits nice.
Only precaution you must take when removing the back is that there is a flatcable connection between tablet and back for the stylus recognition.
When it breaks no big issue just the stylus is not activated anymore when you remove its from the storageplace.
Also it is a delicate job to remove the small circuitboard on top of the battery because it is very tight packed with sealtape.
Don't desolder the 4 wires going to that board and just remove the board very carefully from the top of the battery.by cutting the 2 connections to the battery itself.
On the circuitboard it is written B+ for the red wire from the new battery and B- for the black wire.
Ré-attach the new wires from the new battery to the 2 terminals and wrap them preferably with shrinksleeves.
You can then store the circuitboard next to the new battery and cover it with duct tape or something like that.
Then press the back gently back to the tablet and done.
I paid USD 22,50 for 2 batteries including shipment.
Snah001 said:
I replaced the battery (the one that was posted above from Aliexpress) of one of my Shield Tablets and it fits nice.
Only precaution you must take when removing the back is that there is a flatcable connection between tablet and back for the stylus recognition.
When it breaks no big issue just the stylus is not activated anymore when you remove its from the storageplace.
Also it is a delicate job to remove the small circuitboard on top of the battery because it is very tight packed with sealtape.
Don't desolder the 4 wires going to that board and just remove the board very carefully from the top of the battery.by cutting the 2 connections to the battery itself.
On the circuitboard it is written B+ for the red wire from the new battery and B- for the black wire.
Ré-attach the new wires from the new battery to the 2 terminals and wrap them preferably with shrinksleeves.
You can then store the circuitboard next to the new battery and cover it with duct tape or something like that.
Then press the back gently back to the tablet and done.
I paid USD 22,50 for 2 batteries including shipment.
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I want to replace the battery but I have problems with opening my tablet. How do I fix it?
Sorry, the answer was earlier given in this forum...
Check here on YouTube the ifixit Nvidia shield tablet battery replacement:
https://nl.ifixit.com/Device/Nvidia_Shield_Tablet_K1
drarbo1 said:
[/COLOR]I'd say that the most important item in that tablet, if it is inoperable, would be that battery logic or protection board. It has 4 wires which I might know what three of them are for but not the fourth. I think a green wire. And because I reused that battery board, it will still show up to the tablet as a 5100mah battery, no matter the size you connect to it.
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I was wondering what those 2 other smaller wires are too. Must be for data only based on the small gauge.
What will the small grey wire be that you have an idea about?
I'm looking into getting rid of the battery altogether to run my K1 off USB power only. Battery had always been the K1's weakness. From the original battery getting recalled, to the crappy battery life even on my updated ST8 model battery, to running hot all the time, and now my ST8 battery is bloated too and looks pretty shady. I'm not sure I want to replace the battery anymore and looking for solutions to go plug in USB power only.
Has anyone put in a separate battery to keep the unit is sleepmode? I don't want to drain my primary battery. btw i have Teyes CC2, but i don't that really matters for this subject.
scottatl said:
Has anyone put in a separate battery to keep the unit is sleepmode? I don't want to drain my primary battery. btw i have Teyes CC2, but i don't that really matters for this subject.
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Why it's simply not necessary at all. You're doing it wrong.
That is an encouraging answer, if you have a lead on a procedure that will work let me know. I often go a couple of days to a week without driving this car and don't want to drain the main battery. If i go through full startup I don't really have use of the rear cam until i have already backed out.
Seems like simple and valid question to me.
Answer is: usually modern car radios come with two +12V wires, one red that goes to the ACC wire from your keyswitch and one yellow that goes to the BATT +12V (colors could be different, usually this wire has a fuse in it) which goes to the Battery +12V terminal (that's why it needs the fuse).
That wire is the one you should use with your external battery. The other one you can leave as it is as powers up the unit when you switch on your key contact and thus has largest current draw. Don't forget to connect the - terminal of your external battery to the chassis at some point.
Hi there.
I have a question: but the external battery has to be connected to the main battery or at least to the alternator, or else it will be drained by the radio without incoming power, right?
And if 2 batteries are connected to the car won't be too much for the alternator to charge?
Regards
It would be interesting if someone actually measured this stuff.
At the very least check the quiescent current of the radio in sleep mode.
If your car battery is 60 Ampere hour and the sleep current is 10 mA it's good for 250 days!
For extra credit measure what all the other junk (engine computer) in your vehicle is taking.
These units should have 2 modes in settings for "power off" one puts it to sleep after a configured amount of time, the other shuts it off after that same configured time.
Renate said:
It would be interesting if someone actually measured this stuff.
At the very least check the quiescent current of the radio in sleep mode.
If your car battery is 60 Ampere hour and the sleep current is 10 mA it's good for 250 days!
For extra credit measure what all the other junk (engine computer) in your vehicle is taking.
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That has already been done by several people.
See also my answer in this post.
Battoussai said:
Hi there.
I have a question: but the external battery has to be connected to the main battery or at least to the alternator, or else it will be drained by the radio without incoming power, right?
And if 2 batteries are connected to the car won't be too much for the alternator to charge?
Regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Indeed connecting it straight to the car battery is not the correct way to do it.
To be charged by the alternator just like the car battery it should have at least these two thing in the circuit:
- A diode to make sure the alternator charges the battery only if the battery has a lower voltage and avoid any current flowing from the external battery to the car's battery.
- A relay to make sure that the external battery with the diode is only connected to the alternator when the engine is running. You need to check your car's electrical diagrams for that.
The diode needs to be able to handle the charge current for the external battery. This depends on its capacity.
It would be better to use a stabilizing charge circuit that actually regulates the charge current for the external battery. Modern cars have such a circuit built into the alternator but that circuit is based on the car's battery charging requirements, which is not the same as the external battery.
The previous posts and the link provided to others are very useful to get an idea of what type of battery you'd need. Be aware of the differences however as in the other thread it mentioned the discharge of the battery should no be more than 50% to be able to start the car in winter. This is correct but doesn't apply here as your external battery doesn't have the start function so you could actually use a lower capacity battery like those agm gel types used in motorcycles and ups's.
mirandam said:
Indeed connecting it straight to the car battery is not the correct way to do it.
To be charged by the alternator just like the car battery it should have at least these two thing in the circuit:
- A diode to make sure the alternator charges the battery only if the battery has a lower voltage and avoid any current flowing from the external battery to the car's battery.
- A relay to make sure that the external battery with the diode is only connected to the alternator when the engine is running. You need to check your car's electrical diagrams for that.
The diode needs to be able to handle the charge current for the external battery. This depends on its capacity.
It would be better to use a stabilizing charge circuit that actually regulates the charge current for the external battery. Modern cars have such a circuit built into the alternator but that circuit is based on the car's battery charging requirements, which is not the same as the external battery.
The previous posts and the link provided to others are very useful to get an idea of what type of battery you'd need. Be aware of the differences however as in the other thread it mentioned the discharge of the battery should no be more than 50% to be able to start the car in winter. This is correct but doesn't apply here as your external battery doesn't have the start function so you could actually use a lower capacity battery like those agm gel types used in motorcycles and ups's.
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Just a few words of precaution. Depending on where you mount your external battery, but specifically inside your car, you should use a fire-resistant abs case. I've seen maintenance free gel batteries that are supposed to be "leak proof" oozing their liquid which is highly corrosive.
This post is nonsense and based on flawed assumptions because OP has an issue with HU, wiring or the vehicle.
The headunit does not consume enough to be a problem, PERIOD.
Maybe a small solarcell in the window - to compensate for the drain of power. Cheers
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2838867265...ZChPozcPp5V5/8JSXt4ZHHFg==|tkp:Bk9SR_Lq6-__YA
marchnz said:
This post is nonsense and based on flawed assumptions because OP has an issue with HU, wiring or the vehicle.
The headunit does not consume enough to be a problem, PERIOD.
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@marchnz is completely right. This extra battery is complete nonsence.
If you connect your unit correctly, you can easily last 30~50 days with your unit.
The average anti-marter "beepers" drain your battery in 10 days.
And if "someone" wants to continue with this ridiculous attempt he/she could buy an electrical car. In that case you have a huge battery.
marchnz said:
This post is nonsense and based on flawed assumptions because OP has an issue with HU, wiring or the vehicle.
The headunit does not consume enough to be a problem, PERIOD.
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surfer63 said:
@marchnz is completely right. This extra battery is complete nonsence.
If you connect your unit correctly, you can easily last 30~50 days with your unit.
The average anti-marter "beepers" drain your battery in 10 days.
And if "someone" wants to continue with this ridiculous attempt he/she could buy an electrical car. In that case you have a huge battery.
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Nice way to help someone asking a perfectly normal question. And for those who don't understand this: ANY question is valid, it's answer that may or may not be valid, as is clearly visible above.
Uneducated people that can't read or write (yes, they DO still exist) have more common sense and respect than any of the above answers demonstrate.
lr_man said:
Maybe a small solarcell in the window - to compensate for the drain of power. Cheers
https://www.ebay.com/itm/283886726506?hash=item4218f7ad6a:g:6oUAAOSwYdxjAui9&amdata=enc:AQAHAAAA8M/0mbxi5yibcvdUqdCKFw2u3VzCvxbs+MuW75IcRurk8OqrGJkk3T/TS6vzz5yW8R4qgMBTaFGbwCp8sno5DxM9DNu6QQzf5YS9h0drfADY1Nte375woSR3k/+Mx8Rm68jOCUe98cbNMDj+UvrvAj+gBvTc6cFoRIV5Xg4dt/TSC/JHKEAX7FuWYV3V0D7d0oTRfHlXuRA/ddvOhZP8SjmAaM6YsaUr+G1iYb5yNqyWthMj6P8cfvEit0xonMV7vrvaV/gOim8EPi3oT+8aNUTxxQIqKrbOhQZoPAyL3wZChPozcPp5V5/8JSXt4ZHHFg==|tkp:Bk9SR_Lq6-__YA
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Actually that's not a bad idea, provided your car is not parked in a garage.
mirandam said:
Nice way to help someone asking a perfectly normal question. And for those who don't understand this: ANY question is valid, it's answer that may or may not be valid, as is clearly visible above.
Uneducated people that can't read or write (yes, they DO still exist) have more common sense and respect than any of the above answers demonstrate.
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Fallacious nonsense. Can you stop now and stop entertaining nonsense.
Your problem if unwilling to get to the root cause or simply just trying to save face.
mirandam said:
Nice way to help someone asking a perfectly normal question. And for those who don't understand this: ANY question is valid, it's answer that may or may not be valid, as is clearly visible above.
Uneducated people that can't read or write (yes, they DO still exist) have more common sense and respect than any of the above answers demonstrate.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Multiple people have already answered in a normal way on this nomal question that this extra battery is not necessary at all. We try to prevent costly and completely unnecssary actions. You sound like someone having knowledge of electrical systems, but have no knowledge at all about these FYT units, because if you did you would not continue to "advice" the OP this way to do this unnecessary and costly actions.
So yes, every question is valid, but not every answer. If you get a counter answer on that invalid answer, you should not blame us pointing at the question. We are pointing at the answer: your answer.
Simply connect the unit correctly and you don't need an extra battery. That extra battery is really ill-adviced.
surfer63 said:
Multiple people have already answered in a normal way on this nomal question that this extra battery is not necessary at all. We try to prevent costly and completely unnecssary actions. You sound like someone having knowledge of electrical systems, but have no knowledge at all about these FYT units, because if you did you would not continue to "advice" the OP this way to do this unnecessary and costly actions.
So yes, every question is valid, but not every answer. If you get a counter answer on that invalid answer, you should not blame us pointing at the question. We are pointing at the answer: your answer.
Simply connect the unit correctly and you don't need an extra battery. That extra battery is really ill-adviced.
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You should read my answers more carefully, I NEVER advised about using the extra battery. I only responded to the question in the OP.
If someone wants to put extra battery in his car, for whatever reasons, and asks about how that can be done, I respond in an adequate way, bare minimum and some advice on a better option.
I'm not the one to lecture the OP on whether his question is right or not, or whether he should spend his money this way. That's up to him.
And just for the record, I did have an extra battery in one of my many cars, however that was because of a battery drain from an alarm system, not because of the radio.
I won't go into the comment on my knowledge, that's off-topic and won't do any good to the thread.
It would be nice to know what the OP thinks about all of these posts. Since his second post there have been no responses and it makes little sense to go on with a thread that isn't interactive.
Hi,
mirandam is just trying to help and answer the question asked in OP.
Please keep in mind the OP (scottatl) is free and I'm sure is able to judge which answer is the best for him/her.
I can see everyone here is trying to help by answering whether how to install a separate battery or explaining that doing so would be useless, I get that, but whatever the correct solution/answer is, you should all stick to the forum rules (#2 member conduct) and stay respectful.
You can absolutely post here to say you disagree and explain your stuff, this is the purpose of a forum, but please do it according to the forum rules.
Any posts / contributions are welcome here, please carry on.
Thanks
woodman
Senior Moderator
The best way to tackle this problem is to actually measure the standby current needed by your radio.
You can do that with a multimeter in between the permanent +12V wire. That way you can determine what size of external battery you would need.
There are radios that draw just a few miliamps and others to go up to 100mA. Your battery capactity needs to be according to that. For example with lets say 4 mA you could easily use a 7AH gel agm battery.
That battery can be charged with around 200-300mA from the alternator, so you'd need a relatively small diode, like a 2-3A one. Using a automotive relay would more than sufficient (they tend to support up to 30A depending on the size) to do the job.
Even the suggested solar panel would work in such a setup. Putting a diode in the solar panel wire you'd even have an automatic charging either from the alternator or the solar panel, how 'bout that?
If you really want to get wild, you could use a solar energy controller. Instead of using the solar panel input you hook it up to your normal car batter and configure it in such a way that the maximum voltage drop would be like 3 volts (13-3 would be 10V enough to still start your car). When that controller goes under the drop it shuts off the line from you car battery and would switch over to your external battery.
It's much more complex but possible since solar energy controllers have dropped considerably in price.