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[Q] BenQ E72 battery hacking?

Hi!
Long ago, I owned a Benq E72 that my wife washed out. I tried to dry it up and it worked for a while. Then it died...but I never threw it out I just had the feeling that it was the battery.
You see,the phone or accesories are not sold where I live nor I have a way to purchase online, so I tried to hack every single battery that laid on my hands.
Last night I got a generic mp4 battery to power up the phone, but it turns out I cannot charge it .
If the "SERVICE" pin on the battery is not making contact, I get an "invalid battery" message after about 30 sec of charge and it stops. Otherwise the error reads "battery temperature too low,aborting"
As you can imagine I can not spend anytime checking the unit so I am asking you if you know how can I either force the unit to ignore the battery status or fake whatever temp the unit needs on the battery.
Thanks in advance!

If you still have the old battery, try to get that charged with a charger that is not caring about the temperature sensor (simple universal 2-pin LiIon charger). It may just be that the E72 is too sensible.
If that does not work, then cut it apart and replace the circuitry of the original one with that of a replacement battery. Chemically there is hardly a difference and only the protection unit and access to the temperature sensor is different for each battery. More advanced (or bigger) batteries may even have digital circuits built in to identify the battery (like in a laptop), but for mobile phones I guess that things are quite simple.
Be warned: Messing with circuit protection may get the battery on fire or explode, so only do that if you know how to supervise the first full charge.

Hi tobbie! Thank you so much for the reply.
I still have the original battery but I am not sure if it will hold a charge.
When the phone got washed, I spent an hour tearing the unit apart and drying it up but forgot about the battery. Then I realized my mistake.
I dried it up and it worked for a couple of hours. Then the phone started to go off on its own.
It got to the point where if you hit the power button, the SMS and power LEDS start blinking non stop, like it tries to go on but can't.
I will do some more research on your tips, they are quite helpful!
Thanks again

You should really be sure that no whatsoever residues are left in phone after the washing (and drying) process. I would take apart the phone completely and clean all parts of it from e.g. left over detergent.
It is much more probable that the phone has a damage than the battery. Circuitry in the battery is quite robust compared to the complex electronic in the mobile phone.

My battery died almost a year ago, since that I'm using something practical but not very appropriate
I used a Samsung AB553446BU (3.7v 1000mAh battery) and a pair of thin wires. Following the polarity of the pins on the phone, I put the Samsung battery and secured it with a piece of paper. As I said before, it's not appropriate but it really does its job!. If you can not solve your problem, try to do something similar if you get a battery that is compatible with the BenQ E72, the battery I'm using has given me no problems I can even charge it from the phone without having to use a universal charger. I'm not having "Invalid battery" messages or "High/Low temperature" warnings.
But as tobbbie said, "It's much more probable that the phone has a damage than the battery".

Oh wow! tobbie AND nickleby helping me in the same thread, what an honor!
I did exactly what you did nickleby! But mine is not that fancy, more like thin copper wire taped to the battery
The phone seems to be OK, I left it overnight and it did not go out (when the old battery dried up and worked, it will stay on for no more than 4-6 hs).
I am 100% sure the phone and battery are dried and clean, the "incident" happened at least 3 months ago.
I am pretty sure I can get your battery model for a few bucks right where I live.
Although I currently own an android tablet, I really miss having my WM smartphone
One more time, thank you guys for all the help!!

Getting the Samsung battery prooved to be impossible.
I was not able to find a 1000mah samsung compatible battery in the whole city.
I did however found 960mah batteries that were compatible with the same models.
Originals were almost as expensive as a basic phone, so I opted for a Chinese knockoff which I just managed to install.
The original charger won't charge it, neither will some other chinese USB chargers, but a USB port is doing the job just fine.
I am so happy to have my WM6 phone back
I was using an LG kp110 which I accidenally fried in a pool, and had to use a Siemens A31 for more than a month!
Thank you guys!

i need help

ok guys i really need your help/opinions. my mytouch4gslide has recently been overheating while just casualy using it (facebook,twiitter,minor games,etc). and 2 days ago it started having horrible battery life it goes down 1 or 2 percent every minute or two. and also ive been trying alot of diffrent roms and im still trying each one out again but the problem is still there.before i was with tmobile i had an optimus v for virginmobile and the battery lasted much longer and it wouldnt overheat like this. im really tempted to send this to htc and get it fixed?replaced but i really cant wait two weeks without a phone. so guys tell me if this has ever happened to you or what i should do, i wish i still have the tmobile asurion insurence but i thought it was useless and canceled it last month, what shoudl i do?
o and i bought this piece of crap from tmobile for 500 dollers no sh!t and im still paying for it so i would really like it for it to get fixed

Yea, that's how much I paid for my first one too - well, still paying for...
Did you get insurance with your plan? Not sure if it covers the battery - but it did come with it, so I don't see why not.
Maybe take it in-store and see if you can get a manager or someone who could swap your battery out? Not sure if it works like that.
I'd be leaning towards the battery being shot, or on it's way there.
If it's overheating a lot, then it's just damaging the battery further - but it's also a sign of damage to the battery itself. Some of the cells are burnt out or malfunctioning and preventing/blocking/impeding or somehow just jamming up the electricity transfer in and out of the battery.
If you do an insurance claim, (if you got it with your plan) they ship you a new phone and when it comes in, you send your old one back. Think you have like 7 days to decide if you want the new one or keep the old one.
That would at least give you two batteries to test back and forth and see if it really is a battery problem (but that's the most likely answer)
You might consider getting an aftermarket battery?
On my second phone I swap out between the two HTC batteries I have, and in my plan phone I have the Anker battery I got. The Anker never gets as hot as the stock battery (either one) for the same workload, and I can push the device with the Anker to do much, much more then the one with the stock battery.
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I did do an HTC warranty repair on my second device, and I had to ship it back, they fixed, and sent it back to me. Didn't take that long, less then 13 days (probably by a few days) I could look up my records and find out exactly how many days I didn't have it including my shipping to them - but once they had it, it was speedy service.
The HTC people were an absolute pleasure to deal with on the phone, extremely helpful and taking the time to patiently answer all of my questions or look up accurate answers if need be (and they had to a few times, but you could imagine the grilling of questions I gave an HTC rep since I was on the line with them already)
Definitely seperated themselves from the vast majority of companies i've dealt with for customer service issues (beyond phones into other stuff too)
So past making some awesome tech the people behind it have been fantastic in my experience.
(even if they do make a ****ty battery they should be ashamed of - phone company, not a battery company, but the quality of the battery is way out of spec for the device it's in )
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Sorry to hear about your troubles, but I have a feeling that people are going to start following you who have been using the stock battery for as long as you have.
It generates too much heat, is too inefficient, and that makes it break down faster and die quicker. The more it dies, the less efficient it gets, and the quicker it reaches the end of it's service life.
If I were in your shoes, i'd call the battery shot and start worrying about what that amount of heat is doing to the device itself, specifically its Snapdragon processor. Heat is enemy numbers 1, 2 and 3 for the processor, especially one pushing the limits of it's design like the Snapdragon does.
If you are running an OC kernel, i'd stop that immediately. Hopefully you aren't or haven't been.
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I'd say go to a T-Mo store and start there, do an HTC direct warranty replace as a last resort and consider an aftermarket battery.
The Mugen batteries are unquestionably higher quality then the Anker batteries, but much pricier too.
The Anker battery is far and away better then the garbage stock battery - so even that would be a step up and it's what I run and like using.
(when I can afford to i'm gonna step up to the Mugen battery and gift the Anker to my second phone)
If I were you i'd overnight an Anker battery and stop in a T-Mo store tomorrow to see what your options were and how they were going to make it right for you.
Worst case is an HTC warranty, it's still in the warranty period, the phone hasn't been out for a year yet. I know that's the least desirable option, but if you do have to go that route make sure to mention how the heat has probably damaged the phone itself and they should have a tech or two go over the whole thing with a fine tooth comb. That heat against the processor has really shortened the lifespan of your device.
I say this because sometimes I put down my second phone and turn it off to save it from the heat of a functioning stock battery - a broken one would be a lot more of a concern.
Wish I could say something more positive, but while you are in warranty and have options is not the time to ignore issues that could bite you later.
Edit:
Especially since this is clearly not your fault - you are using the battery provided to you with the device itself, and that is now malfunctioning. You didn't do anything to cause this, it's either dumb luck with an even worse battery then normal that HTC themselves provided you, or you are the first of more who are hitting the end of service life on the battery the device came with.
It sucks that the worse it gets, the more quickly the problem gets worse. It's a vicious cycle that there is no way out of, because just using the battery breaks it more.
Even if you have to be without a phone for a week because you have to ship it back to HTC (worst case scenario from your point of view, since you have no device in the meantime) they'll make it right for you. This device is too awesome, and costs too much money, to settle for something that's defective - especially since it's not something you did, just the way it came.
Let's just hope for everyone's sake you got a particularly bad battery and this doesn't turn into an epidemic. Because the overheating of the battery basically breaks it more and more quickly, this is about the right amount of time for them to start crapping out if you got it within the first month of launch.
(based on the ludicrous - yet identical - amount of heat i've been experiencing from two stock batteries is where i'm framing this fear from)
Edit again:
Sorry, noticed you said you cancelled insurance, i'm pretty tired, but i'll leave what I said in case it helps someone - I wouldn't hesitate to call up HTC and file a manufacturers warranty claim, it should be covered since it's their branded battery that failed. I definitely give them a very high rating for customer service from my experience - I have nothing but good things to say about them to anyone who will listen.

The anker battery definitely will cool down your device. It seems like our stock battery takes a sh*t after about 3 months... Once I got the anker battery I loved the phone so much more, I recommended it to all my friends with sensations/mt4gs phones.
My one friend ended up getting himself 3 ankers, so he always keeps one on the wall charger, one in the phone, and one fully charged in his pocket. He doesn't even plug the phone into the wall anymore. If you do something like him, your phone will also avoid the heat involved with charging via usb
Sent from my RubiX ICS Infused using Tapatalk

leoilios said:
...
My one friend ended up getting himself 3 ankers, so he always keeps one on the wall charger, one in the phone, and one fully charged in his pocket. He doesn't even plug the phone into the wall anymore. If you do something like him, your phone will also avoid the heat involved with charging via usb
...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, you trade wear and tear of one part for wear and tear on another. The wear and tear on the USB jack is much, much worse then the wear and tear on the battery contacts.
The USB jack will wear out long before the battery contacts wear down.
The other part of it is every time you open the back of the device you expose the internals to dust and environmental contaminants.
I'd say as long as it's clean, not dusty or anything when you make the switch, that's the better way to go - as long as they are the same battery (which is what you said your friend had ... all good there)
The big thing would be to not make the switch outside. Try to do it indoors, in still air.
The most dust-free room of any house is most likely the bathroom. Limited to no carpeting and usually much less air space for things to be floating around in, close the window and give it ten minutes to settle first and that's probably the best location to do it. Especially if it's real tile, that's the absolute least opportunity for all the dust and fine particulates on the floor in the rest of the house to be present.
So your friends mode of operation (if when changing the battery conscious of dust and fine particle contamination) is probably the best method to stay charged and put the least wear on the device - except maybe an induction charging backplate.
The only problem with the induction charger is finding a case you can work on it with. I don't have one, but if it's the same size as the standard phone dimensions, then you could use the trident case and not scratch the device up taking it off an on (the trident case is mostly soft plastic and rubber, not hard and sharp plastic)
The downfall to the induction charger is you need a charge plate every where you go, so once you factor that liability in, what your friend is doing with 3 Ankers is probably the best method to keep the phone charged while doing as little damage to it through normal wear and tear possible.
Score a point for creativity and efficiency. I might change my mind about the Mugen and just get a few more Ankers to duplicate the method, after thinking about it. If there's a better way, why do anything else? That seems like it'd be worth buying the extra batteries for, i'll just pay attention and snipe some on sale.
Thanks for sharing, that's a happy tidbit of info and i'm definitely going to work towards implementing it. I want this device to last me as long as I can make it, and any way of taking better care of it or doing something like the battery swap method that just makes way more sense is always welcome to hear about.
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I should've gone to sleep already since I have to get moving in just a few short hours - but after typing out my previous reply I figured i'd swap my stock battery since you shouldn't let them sit without being used for a long period of time.
(I wish I could charge the stock batteries out of the device, I could copy a shorter version of that method with my two stock batteries - oh well.)
Anyways, when I did, I noticed something. Each came with one of my devices, and they are both the same battery, but they are backwards. It looks like it was deliberate, too, because all the markings are correct for + / - and whatnot.
Don't know what to make of it, so I figured i'd share just to get the info out there in case it's of use to anyone - (for what, I have no idea) - but they both suck equally, so there's no benefit of less heat for one or the other, and they both last about the same amount of time near as I can tell without actually measuring.
Doesn't seem like one lasts longer then the other, and i'm pretty sensitive to that kind of stuff. If people are curious i'll measure them a couple of times each and see for sure, if not I won't waste my time when there's other work to do.
Anyways, I snapped some pictures of it to illustrate what I mean, since describing it would end up being confusing for some and i'm half delerious as it is.
They are both the same:
- brand = (HTC)
- model = (BG58100)
- Rating = (3.7VDC)
- Capacity = (1520 mAh)
- Watt Hours = (5.62Whr)
Different serial numbers, and Different part numbers.
The one that shows the writing/bar code side up when installed in the device is:
- part number 35H00150-00m
The one that shows the blank side up when installed in the device is:
- part number 35H00153-00m
Does anyone out there have any other part numbers for the stock batteries? I wonder how many versions there are and if there are any differences between them.
Two of my friends got this device after seeing all the cool stuff I could do with it and being less then impressed with the devices the rest of our/their friends had - they needed a hardware keyboard too so obviously this was the answer.
I will check their stock batteries and see what they are, if it's anything different i'll post that too - might take a few days or so to get ahold of them and find out.
I should have noticed this a long time ago. Anyways, here's the pics to illustrate the outward differences:

no worrys i just charged my phone all night and its workin good again, and i do have anker. im on your bulletproof rom and ive been off the charger for an hour and ive been texting and playing games and its still at 100 percent

Blue if ur gonna copy my friend, keep the spare in a ziplock bag, moisture is one of the reasons people say u shouldn't leave them out and unused for long periods of time
Sent from my RubiX ICS Infused using Tapatalk

wiswis said:
no worrys i just charged my phone all night and its workin good again, and i do have anker. im on your bulletproof rom and ive been off the charger for an hour and ive been texting and playing games and its still at 100 percent
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome to hear you're in good shape again.
Was the problem you were having with the stock battery or the anker?
leoilios said:
Blue if ur gonna copy my friend, keep the spare in a ziplock bag, moisture is one of the reasons people say u shouldn't leave them out and unused for long periods of time
Sent from my RubiX ICS Infused using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have some nylon camera cases i've been using to carry around the doubleshots, and they have pockets that I slip things like memory cards, cables and the stock batteries in (whichever one isn't being used).
Appreciate the heads up, but I got the cases to keep the doubleshot behind a zipper to keep dust out, and when the accessories are in the zipper pockets they are protected enough. There isn't a lot of fog where I live, only rarely and otherwise the ambient moisture is not very high so it's not a big deal.
If I didn't have the cases, though, i'd definitely be using something like that. There were a couple of times I carried the doubleshot itself around in a ziplock bag back in august, if it was raining or going to rain that's how it left my house in my pocket. That's what prompted me to get the nylon cases - and though they aren't waterproof or anything, it's enough to not have to worry about it.
If i'm going to be in the rain then that's what I do - i'll have to come up with something better before it hits the rainy season around here - this time of year it doesn't rain often.

I'm having a similar problem, though not as extreme.
My phone's battery doesn't actually heat up but the area around the simcard. I'm running Pyroice with the extreme UV kernel and underclocked the CPU to 810mhz Max with setcpu 2.1.1a but it still warms up around the simcard area. I also never get anything better than 12hrs battery life.
Should I be worried?
sent via my messenger dog

cybot_x1024 said:
I'm having a similar problem, though not as extreme.
My phone's battery doesn't actually heat up but the area around the simcard. I'm running Pyroice with the extreme UV kernel and underclocked the CPU to 810mhz Max with setcpu 2.1.1a but it still warms up around the simcard area. I also never get anything better than 12hrs battery life.
Should I be worried?
sent via my messenger dog
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have had this same problem from day one. Even with the anker battery, and on every rom I have tried. I sometimes use flat icepacks to cool it down when it gets too hot. I haven't found anything fix.
Sent from my Bulletproof_Doubleshot using XDA App

I use my Mugen as my regular battery and my two Ankers as spares. I only have the OEM battery in case I need to send it to T-Mobile.

So I got the model numbers from both stock batteries that my friends have for their phones. Both are the same.
- part number 35H00153-00m
...and that matches one of the ones I have from above.
Anyone else have any other model numbers on their stock batteries that are different?
It would be nice to know what's out there and if a particular model seems to do better then another.
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I run both stock batteries in one phone, and the anker in the other. Very rarely does the anker device get hot enough that I take notice and pay attention to it, but it does happen.
The one swapping out stock batteries back and forth can trigger a battery switch if it has been two days and I haven't swapped, or it gets too hot.
If it gets too hot I turn it off, let it cool down and then turn it on with the other battery. I try to keep the one not in use as full as viable, but never less then about halfway for more then a short while.
Enough people have shown a serious reduction in heat of the device by using an aftermarket battery that we've concluded pretty solidly that the stock battery is responsible for a large portion of the excessive heat.
Heat is the number one enemy of these kinds of batteries and microprocessors. If it starts to get hot enough to be uncomfortable in your hands, then you should start thinking about letting it cool down before running it so hard.
It happens more frequently then i'd like with the device running stock batteries, but I always make the decision that whatever i'm doing isn't worth aging the device and reducing it's service life just because I couldn't stop using it for a few minutes to let it cool off. The money I spent on it means more the longer it's in service, abusing it unnecessarily is wasteful to me.
I'm pretty particular about things like that, just my way. Your mileage may vary.

Blue: my stock battery has the same product number
i can't really say i've noticed it getting hot enough to take notice of it, but then again, i mainly use the Anker, since i only need to charge it once a day.
i was wondering if there's a chance that the heat issue is something HTC addressed in the last OTA update? definitely hard to say, but possible i suppose. perhaps i can try using the stock battery on the newest stock ROM and see if it heats up.

I doubt it's a matter of software or we wouldn't see much if any change when swapping to a different battery like the mugen or anker.
Any theory is valid until disproven though, and you never know unless you try so let us know how it turns out.

[Q] Photon Q Battery Mod

Would it be possible do modify the Photon Q's battery at all? Like replace it with a RAZR MAXX HD's battery? I can't find dimensions on either battery or anything like that.
I was also wondering if it'd be possible to maybe take apart a battery (perhaps two Photon Q batteries) and somehow put them all in sequence and have it work like that. I'm a noob when it comes to these types of things. Any help is greatly appreciated!

You would have to get the measurements of both batteries and compare the sizes to see if the RAZR batt will fit. It looks to be the same voltage and chemistry.
You cant use multiple cells without special circuitry for charging. The best option is to find a larger cell of the same chemistry and voltage then mod the phone to hold it. Also, you would probably have to sacrifice a working battery to get the connector.
I added a larger cell to my Motorola Triumph
androidforums.com/showthread.php?t=763108
Sent from my XT897

mozzwald said:
You would have to get the measurements of both batteries and compare the sizes to see if the RAZR batt will fit. It looks to be the same voltage and chemistry.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not easy to get that info, but looks like the RAZR battery, altough surely electrically compatible is not the same size.
Razer's one is 1.5 cm longer, and is also narrower.
You cant use multiple cells without special circuitry for charging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, surely you can't put two "smart" batteries in parallel from the outside, but it's feasible opening the battery and connecting properly the cells, internally.
But this must be done by someone who really knows what should be done, to avoid risky situations.

You can connect multiple cells in parallel but it's not a good idea without a proper circuit to charge the cells. Over time the cells will need charged at different rates.
Sent from my XT897

mozzwald said:
You can connect multiple cells in parallel but it's not a good idea without a proper circuit to charge the cells. Over time the cells will need charged at different rates.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On small batteries like the one you can find on a cellphone "Proper circuit" could be just a couple of resistors to balance the "neighbor" cells.
I'ts way different on bigger batteries, like notebooks' or electric cars' ones.
Given the increased energy stored (and the increased risk) in the latter cases the charging circuitry checks every single cell, not the whole battery as happens on cellphones.
So doubling the capacity of such batteries is a completely different matter, a complete redesign of the charging circuitry (and battery firmware) is needed.

Alright, so I'm pretty sure I've this all figured out except for one thing. What the crap is this green..... thing on the back of the battery? It's like superglued onto it and I'm thinking it's an antenna of some kind, perhaps for NFC.
BUT, I can basically just connect the RAZR Maxx battery like this to mah phone I'm thinking. (see image)

goldbolt said:
Alright, so I'm pretty sure I've this all figured out except for one thing. What the crap is this green..... thing on the back of the battery? It's like superglued onto it and I'm thinking it's an antenna of some kind, perhaps for NFC.
BUT, I can basically just connect the RAZR Maxx battery like this to mah phone I'm thinking. (see image)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
EB40 (Razr Maxx) and EB41 (Photon Q/Droid 4) batteries have completely different dimensions.

kabaldan said:
EB40 and EB41 have completely different dimensions.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I know this. I'll just wire it like in my image similar to what the other dude in this thread did with his Triumph.

This is why I wish Samsung would've made an S3 slider.

goldbolt said:
Yeah, I know this. I'll just wire it like in my image similar to what the other dude in this thread did with his Triumph.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wiring a different battery is definitely possible.
I did it on a HD2 clone, using a Mugen battery meant for the Palm PRE.
The hardest part is to find a battery with the correct dimensions, usually find the right one is just matter of luck, given is hard to know the exact dimensions of a battery before buying it.

There's finally an extended battery (3800mAh) available for Droid 4.
(Droid 4 comes with the same EB41 battery as Photon Q).
So there's a battery that should fit (apart from its thickness, obviously).
The main issue is that there's no back cover for Photon Q to fit this battery.
http://mugen.co/motorola/verizon-mo...rizon-motorola-droid-4-with-battery-door.html
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360809183555

We need 3d printer for back covers!
Or just wait a few month, I think that the back cover will come for the XT897.

kabaldan said:
The main issue is that there's no back cover for Photon Q to fit this battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The main issua, as usual for the mugen batteries, is the price.
89$ is more than what I paid the whole Photon Q.
Or, if you prefer, is 15x the price of the original extended motorola battery I'm using on the Phonton 4G

i just wrote to mugen power an email and asked if there is the possibility for a extended battery, as the droid 4 battery fits in the photon and only a bigger backcover is needed. this is what they replayed to me:
Thank you for your email!
I will pass it to our technology and marketing group to see will them make the cover for photon Q.
Will let you know later!
Please contact me if you need any additional info.
Best Regards,
Jan
http://mugen.co
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
so maybe we have some luck

pujdo1 said:
i just wrote to mugen power an email and asked if there is the possibility for a extended battery, as the droid 4 battery fits in the photon and only a bigger backcover is needed. this is what they replayed to me:
so maybe we have some luck
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just got a Photon Q so I would certainly love if they made a back cover but am doubting they will. Thought of just buying a second cover on ebay and cutting it / using some epoxy to make my own with the Droid 4 battery.

Dual Battery Photon Q
I know, seems insane but I've been running my phone like this for the past year and have even made a second one which is also running fine. Reason why I did this was because I'd bought a Photon Q in the summer of 2014 (previously with Verizon). The phone was brand new but the battery has been on the shelf so long that it was crap by the time it got to me. So I went and bought a replacement batter on Amazon. It already being a two year old phone, the replacement batteries went for only about $8. So I bought two. Upon receipt, I inspected it an thought of possibly soldering the two together to see what would happen.
Initially, I soldered the primary contacts of both batteries to each other (including the PCB), which didn't work. On my second attempt, I disassembled the housing for the PCB and soldered just the leads of the cells together and kept the PCB of one of the batteries. It powered on and worked properly. In fact, with two batteries, it seemed as so the phone worked faster than it did prior. I'm assuming more stable voltage.
Anywho, if anyone wants a 16 hour Photon Q, this mod works. The only thing that's off though is the battery meter. Since I don't know how to reprogram the PCB, the phone will hit 3% battery life after eight hours of use but will continue on for another eight hours. I've been using my phone like this for about a year now and it also seemed to have learned the new battery life. In recent days, the phone would actually shut off soon after the 3% warning. The second phone came into play because the touch screen stopped working. I tried to fix it but ended up breaking my phone instead.
I know I know. I'm crazy for allowing a lithium cell to be that closely exposed to the atmosphere. Whatevers, yolo. Anyways, the antenna is sandwiched between the two cells, back cover chopped up with a razor, and if you're fans of the car dock, you can take off the top layer, chop off what you need to accomodate the battery, and glue the remainder of the top layer back to the base. Like a glove!
---------- Post added at 06:50 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:10 AM ----------
Here are some close ups of the twin cell itself
Twin Cell Battery
http://forum.xda-developers.com/album.php?albumid=12422

[Q] Trusted AA power bank?

I'm not sure what the general opinion here is on thread necromancy vs posting something there are already threads on, I'm looking for a good power bank that won't break my wallet- or my devices! Also, thanks for that checkbox warning, I almost posted this in general > accessories! (Where all the other threads I found with this kind of subject were, but... oh well. )
I'm looking at the Lumsing 5X right now... (Google it, I can't post links yet. 11000mAh, $26, 5 USB ports at the different ratings) it's the cheapest one I've found that's actually in a "top _" list when googling for power banks... but still, I'm worried about getting ripped off on recycled batteries ( or a charger filled with bags of sand!), and I'm trying to look into AA chargers, but... well, they're really hard to search for and don't seem to provide any specifications!
Plus a AA charger would be great since I could get an 8-pack of Imedions and use the extra batteries for my other stuff, or a quick battery swap, and easier replacement... Batteries do wear out over time, after all.
But my god is it a pain in the ass trying to find them, let alone ones that have a 1-2 amp charging capacity. or even seeing which ones bothered to include a power regulating board at all! I already got a Rayovac one from walmart when I got overexcited seeing it and made an impulse buy... only rated for 500 mAh, according to the casing upon opening the box. I'll be returning that...
It almost feels like my best bet, if I really want a AA based power brick that bad ( I don't) is to order the regulating circuit and put it together myself.
So, does anyone happen to already have a good AA bank and could tell me what they use? After all, the power brick I linked is the same price as the Imedon batteries alone... I would prefer to avoid paying more than 30 or so for the brick, 40 for the AA one + batteries.
Perhaps the one mentioned, but not by name, in this post?:
Mister B said:
I'm using a 4cell AA powerpack, I use Uniross Hybrio 2,200mAh cells.
Modified it to support fast charge & it work very well & cost me $15 all in, plus recharge cells can be easily & cheaply replaced making it a long term cheap servicable solution and also standard AA cells can be loaded if no main power available ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

I got the Lumising. Thanks for all the help, everyone that replied; I REALLY appreciate it.
I'll report back when it gets here and say if it's poop-tier or not.

Finally drained the lumising.
It powered:
3 recharges of my Samsung Google Nexus (1750 battery) from 15%, being accidentially left on overnight once
1 recharge from red of my 3DS XL (1750) while playing Pokemon X, on the most power intensive settings.
1 recharge of my Nook 1st Edition (1250) from 15%, while reading
I did have some problems with the pack turning itself off while charging my Nook, and the Nook not registering that it's being charged, but that device does have a badly damaged USB port, so I'll let that slide even though I don't have problems with the AC plug as long as I'm careful about the device end of the USB cable.
All in all, I got approxomately 7000 mAh of charge, plus powering the devices' battery usage during the time spent charging. Not bad, when you consider that a good portion of the energy also disappears into the conversion process from the 3.1v lithium battery to the 5v standard USB ports, and then back from the USB standard to the 3.1v lithium batteries inside the devices.
The pack itself takes bloody ages to charge though, and didn't come with it's own charger. But that's to be expected, I suppose. It can only draw 1-1.5a of current while charging, according to the ratings on the brick, so no taking advantage of the full speed of a 2.1a USB wall adapter, if you have one. The short owner's manual that came with it is engrish-y, but understandable, and there are some minor discrepancies in the information stated on the Amazon page, the package, the manual, and the device itself.
For example, it seems to just turn itself off when it has a single flashing light and won't output any charge, but the manual explicitly states that a single flashing light means 10% charge, and that the remaining battery can still be used at that point. Besides that, though, the display from 4 lights to 1 seemed to accurately represent how much power it still had available in comparison to how much I had already used from it. As accurately as it can with only 4 lights, anyway.
An undocumented feature is that the lights will also start staying solid at the same 25% thresholds during charging.
Cosmetically, whatever material the case is made out of attracts fingerprints and skin oils like a high-strength neodymium magnet, and some of the protective plastics are so closely attached they look like they're just part of the case at first, but they mention that in the follow-up email after ordering. All of the edges, including around the on/off button, are a little rough, and the recessed design of said button makes it a bit difficult to press; I have to jab at it with the corner of a fingernail to push it easily; otherwise I'm just kinda pushing on the face of the device while my skin squishes into the shallow hole that the already concave button is in. The pouch is very nice, but it feels like overkill when the device itself is so impossible to keep clean and fancy-looking. Good place to keep all adapters from USB to various other plugs, though.
I suppose that's not bad for just under $27 spent.
Again, thank you all so very much for your assistance in my decision.

[Q] Replace battery?

I've had my Note 10.1 for about a year and a half and the battery no longer lasts nearly as long as it did when it was new. I'm now having to charge it just about every day, if I use it at all.
I called Samsung. Of course, the warranty is only 1 year and I'm past that, so they gave me the # to their service center (RSI - Repair Services Inc). I called them and they said it would be $159 to replace the battery. I can't see spending that much. I asked if I could buy a replacement battery and they said no.
Do any of you know where I can get a replacement battery? And instructions on how to disassemble/reassemble?
I've completely disassembled/reassembled numerous laptops and a Galaxy Note 2 phone - and they even worked afterwards and had no leftover parts! So, I'm pretty comfortable in thinking I can do it myself, with at least a little guidance on how to get it apart (and maybe even without that).
Or, I would consider paying a service to do it, if it's $100 or less, if you know of one. Especially if it's local to the northern VA/DC area.
TIA!

So, just FYI, there's a kit with a video on how to do it here:
http://www.newpower99.com/Samsung_G...eplacement_Kit_p/samsung galaxy note 10.1.htm
That kit is $50.
But, Newegg has just the OEM battery for $33 (w/free shipping).
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA0890RC4649
The "kit" only adds the plastic tool for prying open the casing, and maybe a jeweler's screwdriver. I have that stuff and couldn't see spending $17 plus whatever the shipping would be for it anyway, so I have the battery coming from Newegg.
Woohoo!!

stuartv said:
So, just FYI, there's a kit with a video on how to do it here:
http://www.newpower99.com/Samsung_G...eplacement_Kit_p/samsung galaxy note 10.1.htm
That kit is $50.
But, Newegg has just the OEM battery for $33 (w/free shipping).
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA0890RC4649
The "kit" only adds the plastic tool for prying open the casing, and maybe a jeweler's screwdriver. I have that stuff and couldn't see spending $17 plus whatever the shipping would be for it anyway, so I have the battery coming from Newegg.
Woohoo!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Let us know how it works out for you and if it is as easy as the video makes it look.

This is really good to know. I used to be a tech whore and had to have the latest and greatest of whatever, so if a battery was heading south I didn't really care because I never had a device long enough for it to matter.
I'm a bit more pragmatic these days though, and hang on to my devices longer, most likely because I just haven't seen anything compelling enough to upgrade to. When I saw the S4 and 2014 10.1 I was just like meh... marginal upgrades in my opinion. Still waiting for something to really knock my socks off
I'm still really digging my Note and want to keep it around. Thanks a ton for the info!

I finally got around to replacing my battery. I put in a new OEM Samsung one from Newegg.
The procedure was pretty much just like it was shown in that video on the NewPower99 site. I did the whole thing just using a set of jeweler's screwdrivers. A flat head for helping get the trim off and then a Phillips for the screws.
A couple of points:
- getting that first piece of trim off was, ummm, interesting. But, it finally came off, just starting from one end, and without getting boogered up from prying it with the flat head screwdriver. However, I think I got lucky, so don't be surprised if you try it and do booger it up a little.
- Once the top and sides of the back are pried/popped loose, the bottom comes off by lifting the back up and pulling away, from the top.
- Similarly, to put the back on again, slip the bottom into place by inserting the little hooks at a roughly 45 degree angle. Get ALL the hooks on the bottom in place before you start popping the sides down. Then pop the top in last.
- the ribbon cable connectors were also ... interesting. Maybe I should have rewatched that video before I did this. A magnifying glass probably would have helped. There are little flip-up bars on each connector to release each cable. I didn't really figure that out and ended up just pulling each of the ribbon cables (except the smallest one) loose without properly releasing them. I didn't figure out how they're really supposed to work until I tried to put them back together. For each one, you just flip up a little black bar that goes all the way across each connector. Then insert the ribbon edge and flip the black bar back down.
- I removed/replaced the battery without undoing the smallest ribbon cable. I wasn't sure how to get it loose and I was afraid of breaking something.
- After I got it all back together, it was working fine for web browsing, and running SpeedTest, but my email wouldn't connect and Facebook didn't work. I finally realized that the system clock was set correctly, but the system date had reverted to something like January 1, 2012. I manually set the date and then everything worked fine.
The only thing I don't really know now is if it's actually lasting longer on a charge that it did before. Too soon to tell yet.

Quick update:
It seems that my "new" battery doesn't last any longer than my original battery. I use Battery Monitor Widget and the original battery showed to have 5900mAh of measured capacity. The new battery only has 5800! I am in the process of arranging to return it and get a replacement. I suspect that the one I got was of old manufacture and has lost capacity just from sitting on a shelf. I will update that thread once I have obtained some kind of resolution.

stuartv said:
Quick update:
It seems that my "new" battery doesn't last any longer than my original battery. I use Battery Monitor Widget and the original battery showed to have 5900mAh of measured capacity. The new battery only has 5800! I am in the process of arranging to return it and get a replacement. I suspect that the one I got was of old manufacture and has lost capacity just from sitting on a shelf. I will update that thread once I have obtained some kind of resolution.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When you get a new battery make sure you know the date code of the battery. They go bad whether they are in use or setting on the shelf.

stuartv said:
Quick update:
It seems that my "new" battery doesn't last any longer than my original battery. I use Battery Monitor Widget and the original battery showed to have 5900mAh of measured capacity. The new battery only has 5800! I am in the process of arranging to return it and get a replacement. I suspect that the one I got was of old manufacture and has lost capacity just from sitting on a shelf. I will update that thread once I have obtained some kind of resolution.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
5900 original capacity? Isn't it suppose to be 7000. At least for me that app shows 7000. I have also used my Gnote10.1 for about 1,5 years now and the battery still lasts as good as before, which is awesome in my mind.

stuartv said:
Quick update:
It seems that my "new" battery doesn't last any longer than my original battery. I use Battery Monitor Widget and the original battery showed to have 5900mAh of measured capacity. The new battery only has 5800! I am in the process of arranging to return it and get a replacement. I suspect that the one I got was of old manufacture and has lost capacity just from sitting on a shelf. I will update that thread once I have obtained some kind of resolution.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Important things to do when you change the battery:
Clear battery cache (need root)
Do a several time charge cycles
Note:
Only clear battery cache right after fully charge then unplug from charger.
3 - 4 charge cycle would be enough (1 charge cycle = 0% to 100%)

shaun298 said:
When you get a new battery make sure you know the date code of the battery. They go bad whether they are in use or setting on the shelf.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know they go bad. But, where do I find the date code and how do I interpret it?

xiaotuo said:
5900 original capacity? Isn't it suppose to be 7000. At least for me that app shows 7000. I have also used my Gnote10.1 for about 1,5 years now and the battery still lasts as good as before, which is awesome in my mind.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry I wasn't clear. My original battery which is now around 18 months old, was showing 5900 mAh capacity when I took it out. I.e. now that it's 18 months old. And the new battery shows even less capacity.
This is after 2 weeks of regular usage and several full charging cycles.

d4rkkn16ht said:
Important things to do when you change the battery:
Clear battery cache (need root)
Do a several time charge cycles
Note:
Only clear battery cache right after fully charge then unplug from charger.
3 - 4 charge cycle would be enough (1 charge cycle = 0% to 100%)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did not clear the battery stats. I am rooted. I have had the new battery installed for about 2 weeks now and have had several full charging cycles. 6 or more.
But, if the new battery really had 7000 mAh capacity (or anywhere near that), even without clearing my stats, they should be trending upwards, right, not down?

Battery stat related problems have swarmed this forum since the dawn of android.
Many complained about lower battery life after switching ROMs & batteries.
Try 1 more cycle (deplete the battery then fully charge) then delete the battery stat & unplug.
Use the unit for your daily routines for several days & check again if the battery performance still go south.
FYI,my N8000 is around 1 year now & I've "abused" it almost everyday with very heavy usage (plenty syncs,fullday internet 3G &/or WiFi,Online & Offline games,music, Bluetooth,web browsing,eBook readings,notes taking & many more) that require me to charge twice a day.
Occasionally I let it rest to check the battery performance & I still get 14 - 18 hours from a single charge with still heavy internet usage for plenty syncs & web browsing only.
I'm looking forward to buy a replacement battery if this one is out of juice.

stuartv said:
I know they go bad. But, where do I find the date code and how do I interpret it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Got a 700mah off ebay and just ask the seller. The date code should be on the bat, just google battery date codes, their are many. It is worth the effort to get a good one.

Latest update: the Newegg partner that actually supplied the battery has sent me a replacement. The date on it is from 2011. I looked at my original Note battery that I took out and it is dated 2012!
I emailed the seller back and told them this replacement battery is not acceptable either and asked if they can actually supply me one of recent manufacture. They are checking and are supposed to get back to me by tomorrow.

Oh, and I did a full charge and wiped battery stats last week. It's had 2 or 3 full charge cycles and the "new" battery is still only showing around 5900 mAh capacity.

stuartv said:
Oh, and I did a full charge and wiped battery stats last week. It's had 2 or 3 full charge cycles and the "new" battery is still only showing around 5900 mAh capacity.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Then you got a broken battery

stuartv said:
Oh, and I did a full charge and wiped battery stats last week. It's had 2 or 3 full charge cycles and the "new" battery is still only showing around 5900 mAh capacity.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dispite the 5900, how long does a charge last.

<<<delete this>>>>

shaun298 said:
Dispite the 5900, how long does a charge last.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, it seems to last about the same as the original battery that I used for a year and a half. Which means I have to put it on a charger every other night or it will day before the next night. When my tablet was new (and I was really hammering the usage back then), I could normally go 3 or 4 days between charges.
Newegg just got back to me with this:
Okay sorry for the delay. But finally our vendor got back to us. The items are new. They may be old due to the year. Only because the tablets for the tab 10.1 released in 2011. Tab 2 10.1 and Note 10.1 released in 2012. The batteries are new. They were just not used. During the the time the tablets was released. The batteries were manufactured. They wouldnt be making new batteries. Since Samsung comes out with new tablets to make new batteries. Please let me know if you have any other questions or concerns and I will be more than happy to help Thank you and have a wonderful day!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So, they are saying that Samsung made all the replacement batteries for these tablets back when they manufactured the tablets themselves and they are not making new batteries for it any more. Effing LAME!