Database Info

Charging the Infuse in the car

Does anyone have issues charging the infuse using the car charger? It seems like it takes forever
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using XDA App

reissy said:
Does anyone have issues charging the infuse using the car charger? It seems like it takes forever
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes it will be buddy theres no yet i.found that leaving it alone and not using it is only way.to.enhance performance
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using XDA Premium App

reissy said:
Does anyone have issues charging the infuse using the car charger? It seems like it takes forever
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Which car charger? The AT&T one?
The AT&T one sucks - very low current limit, and it's detected as a USB charger by the Infuse and not as full-current charger.
If you use the car dock, any high-current charger (like iPad chargers) will work with the Infuse.
If you don't use the car dock, if you use an iPad/iPhone charger, you have to open up the charger and short the D+ and D- pins of the USB connector of the charger with a solder blob, or use a "charging adapter" cable. (Apparently AT&T sells such a cable - the negative reviews for not working for data transfer mean it'll work great for charging from iPhone/iPad USB chargers.) I use the 1A port of a Scosche reVIVE II with the D+ and D- pins solder-blobbed together.
Also, if the CPU is running and the screen is on, CPU and screen usage count against the phone's charge current limit, so will significantly reduce charge rate. (Samsung noobed that one...)

I found that turning off the data makes it charge faster!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using XDA App

debra said:
I found that turning off the data makes it charge faster!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Samsung noobed it up in this phone's charging design - CPU/screen, and maybe even radio current usage count against the phone's charge current limit. This means that instead of 600 mA going only to the battery, it's 600 mA going to battery and all sorts of stuff - so the battery gets far less. This is why battery can actually drain while running navigation.
However the AT&T charger itself imposes a lower current limit than this, so even if Samsung hadn't noobed it, you'd still get a slow charge.

Entropy512 said:
Samsung noobed it up in this phone's charging design - CPU/screen, and maybe even radio current usage count against the phone's charge current limit. This means that instead of 600 mA going only to the battery, it's 600 mA going to battery and all sorts of stuff - so the battery gets far less. This is why battery can actually drain while running navigation.
However the AT&T charger itself imposes a lower current limit than this, so even if Samsung hadn't noobed it, you'd still get a slow charge.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you think it would charge faster under GingerBread? I cannot have a phone like this if it takes forever and a day to charge. That just sucks.

reissy said:
Do you think it would charge faster under GingerBread? I cannot have a phone like this if it takes forever and a day to charge. That just sucks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I won't know until I've had a chance to look at the source drop.
Ideally:
They've fixed it so CPU/screen/etc usage doesn't count against charge current.
Workaround if they haven't:
It's possible to bump charge current up to 800 mA (stock is 600 mA). While this initially seems like only a 25% boost to charging, the fact that CPU/screen/etc is using part of the charge current limit means actual battery current will be up significantly more than 25%.

Entropy512 said:
I won't know until I've had a chance to look at the source drop.
Ideally:
They've fixed it so CPU/screen/etc usage doesn't count against charge current.
Workaround if they haven't:
It's possible to bump charge current up to 800 mA (stock is 600 mA). While this initially seems like only a 25% boost to charging, the fact that CPU/screen/etc is using part of the charge current limit means actual battery current will be up significantly more than 25%.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting. I wonder if a custom kernel could fix this issue. Is that possible?

Entropy512 said:
Which car charger? The AT&T one?
The AT&T one sucks - very low current limit, and it's detected as a USB charger by the Infuse and not as full-current charger.
If you use the car dock, any high-current charger (like iPad chargers) will work with the Infuse.
If you don't use the car dock, if you use an iPad/iPhone charger, you have to open up the charger and short the D+ and D- pins of the USB connector of the charger with a solder blob, or use a "charging adapter" cable. (Apparently AT&T sells such a cable - the negative reviews for not working for data transfer mean it'll work great for charging from iPhone/iPad USB chargers.) I use the 1A port of a Scosche reVIVE II with the D+ and D- pins solder-blobbed together.
Also, if the CPU is running and the screen is on, CPU and screen usage count against the phone's charge current limit, so will significantly reduce charge rate. (Samsung noobed that one...)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Would one of these work? I use it on my Galaxy Tab 10.1. It has a data/charge switch.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330565218553&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

reissy said:
Interesting. I wonder if a custom kernel could fix this issue. Is that possible?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is entirely possible to crank the charge current up to 800 mA - I've done it and have been testing it on my phone. I have some additional stuff I want to do before general public release which is hard because the charge control stuff is major spaghetti code in the Froyo kernel. I'm hoping the GB kernel source is a bit cleaner.
I am not sure if it is possible to fix the fact that CPU/screen/etc usage is counted against the battery charge current limit. This may be simply bad hardware design. There's a slight possibility that it may just be that a register in the MAX8998 is being set improperly, such as the ESAFEOUT bits. When I get home and take a look at the GB kernel I'll know for sure. The problem is that the MAX8998 datasheet is proprietary and so the only documentation for this chip is the kernel source itself - which isn't particularly good for a number of aspects of the chip.
MisterEdF said:
Would one of these work? I use it on my Galaxy Tab 10.1. It has a data/charge switch.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330565218553&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll test - I've got a charger modded for charging my Tab 10.1, but I haven't tested it with the Infuse. I know solder-blobbing D+ and D- of an iPad charger works, but not what happens if you mangle the resistors in such a way that Tab 10.1s charge.

I have a charger from Griffin that works with my iPad that is a mini cig lighter adapter plug with a USB plug in it. It comes with a 30 pin cable for iDevices, but if I plug the micro USB cable that came with my Infuse it works great and charges relatively fast... I haven't done any serious testing, but from what I can tell it's much faster than if it were charging off my laptop's USB, but not as fast as being plugged into the wall.
What I think makes the difference is the fact that the charger is iPad capable, which means it's rated to output more power than the basic iPhone/pod versions. The iPad requires something like 2.1 amps compared to the .5 amps the normal usb chargers put out. This is why most laptops older than about 3 years can't charge the iPad via usb.
Now, I know my reference to "amps" I will be corrected or clarified. I'm no electrical engineer, lol... but what I'm going off is he output listing on the chargers. Bottom line is the iPads need a lot more juice and maybe so do our Infuses.
Hope this helps/makes sense!

tazm0n said:
I have a charger from Griffin that works with my iPad that is a mini cig lighter adapter plug with a USB plug in it. It comes with a 30 pin cable for iDevices, but if I plug the micro USB cable that came with my Infuse it works great and charges relatively fast... I haven't done any serious testing, but from what I can tell it's much faster than if it were charging off my laptop's USB, but not as fast as being plugged into the wall.
What I think makes the difference is the fact that the charger is iPad capable, which means it's rated to output more power than the basic iPhone/pod versions. The iPad requires something like 2.1 amps compared to the .5 amps the normal usb chargers put out. This is why most laptops older than about 3 years can't charge the iPad via usb.
Now, I know my reference to "amps" I will be corrected or clarified. I'm no electrical engineer, lol... but what I'm going off is he output listing on the chargers. Bottom line is the iPads need a lot more juice and maybe so do our Infuses.
Hope this helps/makes sense!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not just about the charger's amperage limit (and yes, amps is correct, you got it right.), but telling the phone that there is a high-current charger connected.
The standard way of doing this (which our phones follow) is to short D+ and D- together.
The Apple way of doing things is to use resistors from ground and +5v to set D+ and D- to specific voltages - 2.0 and 2.8 volts to be specific. Our phones usually detect this as a USB host and limit charge current to something like 475 mA. (I forget the exact value.)
Galaxy Tabs do it yet another way - tie D+ and D- together and use resistors to make them both around 1.2 volts. (Edit: Just tried my Tab 10.1 wall charger. Our phone detects this as an AC charger.)
Even with a high-current charger, our phones limit battery current internally to 600 mA on AC. Unfortunately, CPU/screen usage is counted against this limit, reducing actual current into the battery. The charger chip in our phones allows up to 800 mA. I've got a kernel that I use myself that does this but I'm a bit paranoid about it stressing the battery which is why I haven't publically released it.
Good news and bad news from the Gingerbread kernel: The bad news is I don't see anything obvious that would fix the flaw of CPU/screen current counting against the charge current limit. The good news is that implementing a safer way to crank the charger current is a LOT easier. It would charge at 800 until the battery hit a certain voltage (currently I'm thinking 4.05 volts), then 700 mA up to 4.1 volts, then 600 up to charge termination. I might make those 4.0/4.05 to be safe. Doing this in the Froyo kernels would have been painful, the Gingerbread kernel's code is much cleaner and this should be a lot easier to add.

@entropy512
So are you saying the eBay Galaxy P1000 Tab charging adapter I pointed to a couple messages back should work on the Infuse without having to modify the charger when set in CHARGE mode?

MisterEdF said:
@entropy512
So are you saying the eBay Galaxy P1000 Tab charging adapter I pointed to a couple messages back should work on the Infuse without having to modify the charger when set in CHARGE mode?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Based on everything I've heard that says the P1000 charging adapter works on the P7510 (Tab 10.1 wifi), yes, since our phones detect Tab 10.1 chargers as full-blown chargers.

Entropy512 said:
If you use the car dock, any high-current charger (like iPad chargers) will work with the Infuse.
<SNIP>
Also, if the CPU is running and the screen is on, CPU and screen usage count against the phone's charge current limit, so will significantly reduce charge rate. (Samsung noobed that one...)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was impatient and picked up the (excellent!) Samsung car dock and can reconfirm (just for another datapoint - Entropy's comments are gold here!) ...
With Waze or Google Maps/Navigation running, background music streaming (Pandora etc) OR a phone call underway (50/50) and a relatively high brightness setting the whole time (65% this morning - it was SUNNY!) my setup *LOST* charge on my 50+ mile drive (from 78% to 73% or so). All sound over Bluetooth the whole way. WiFi off, GPS (duh) on.
My Setup: Cheap Woot!ed Belkin 9V-USB 1A adapter with an Amazon-sourced Samsung original data/charge cable and the Samsung car dock.
Workable - at this rate it would lose ALL charge AFTER my rather substantial gas (diesel!) tank is empty.
BUT the new kernel or a charging fix would be great because then I don't have to remember to enter the car with a fully charged phone, or conversely, worry that I may leave, and thn run out, since charge was depleted en route!

[Q] Faster Charger? Please advise

Hey,
I noticed that the droid charge has a bigger battery but it take a lifetime to charge.. is there a better charger I can get other than the one that came stock with the phone? Please let me know. I would really appreciate it.

The stock actually charges fast compared to USB...use a higher amperage charger with the stock usb cord (so it doesn't limit to 500ma). I use my Galaxy Tab charger...works great
Sent from my Droid Charge running GummyFroyo 1.9.1

kvswim said:
The stock actually charges fast compared to USB...use a higher amperage charger with the stock usb cord (so it doesn't limit to 500ma). I use my Galaxy Tab charger...works great
Sent from my Droid Charge running GummyFroyo 1.9.1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well I am using the USB in the pc and the battery has not moved once notch ... has to be the rom (gingerbread) or the combnation of usb cord and charger.

stepinmyworld said:
Well I am using the USB in the pc and the battery has not moved once notch ... has to be the rom (gingerbread) or the combnation of usb cord and charger.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
PC USB ports do not do a good job charging phones. they don't have a lot of power going to them. In addition, if you're using your phone while its charging from your computer you will not likely see it charging at all since all the power its getting is going to whatever it is your doing.
The same is true of car chargers. I had mine plugged in in the car for 45 minutes using the GPS. It charged 2%. The point is, the only real effective way to charge your phone is by using a regular outlet.

streetlightman said:
PC USB ports do not do a good job charging phones. they don't have a lot of power going to them. In addition, if you're using your phone while its charging from your computer you will not likely see it charging at all since all the power its getting is going to whatever it is your doing.
The same is true of car chargers. I had mine plugged in in the car for 45 minutes using the GPS. It charged 2%. The point is, the only real effective way to charge your phone is by using a regular outlet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Correct about the pc charging; it only runs at .5 amps (500 ma) while the stock charger has 1 amp. However, the car charger really depends on what kind you're using. I use a 2A and it charges fine.
Sent from my Droid Charge running GummyFroyo 1.9.1

streetlightman said:
PC USB ports do not do a good job charging phones. they don't have a lot of power going to them. In addition, if you're using your phone while its charging from your computer you will not likely see it charging at all since all the power its getting is going to whatever it is your doing.
The same is true of car chargers. I had mine plugged in in the car for 45 minutes using the GPS. It charged 2%. The point is, the only real effective way to charge your phone is by using a regular outlet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ok cool. so i could just look for a charger will higher voltage being delivered. I hope i get the right one that is compatible to the droid charge. Dont wanna burn the battery out etc

No, not voltage. Amperage. Big difference. Just get a charger with a USB port and a high amperage...I don't think you'll find a higher amp charger specifically compatible with the Charge.
Sent from my Droid Charge running GummyFroyo 1.9.1

kvswim said:
No, not voltage. Amperage. Big difference. Just get a charger with a USB port and a high amperage...I don't think you'll find a higher amp charger specifically compatible with the Charge.
Sent from my Droid Charge running GummyFroyo 1.9.1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ok thanks!

You need a charger that won't be seen as a USB connection on the phone. If the phone thinks that it is plugged into your computer, it will charge at roughly half the rate of the wall charger. Wall charger will charge at ~700mA I believe, and the USB/Computer connection will charge at ~400mA. You can find the actual numbers in the power regulator driver in the kernel source though.

I have a motorola 950 amp car charger I got off amazon for $5. It works well but if the screen is full bright and I'm running navagation I have seen the battery level drop. To keep up you need a 1+amp charger. That being said the harder you charge the batteries the quicker they will wear out.

imnuts said:
You need a charger that won't be seen as a USB connection on the phone. If the phone thinks that it is plugged into your computer, it will charge at roughly half the rate of the wall charger. Wall charger will charge at ~700mA I believe, and the USB/Computer connection will charge at ~400mA. You can find the actual numbers in the power regulator driver in the kernel source though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is pretty interesting. I'm not a phone dev or an electrician, but I assume these mA numbers are something that are 1) lower than what is actually safe and 2) might be able to be tweaked by a dev with nothing better to do. Not that you are even close to falling in that category, but I think many users would be quite interested in being able to get more charge out of shorter durations, albeit at the risk of burning out their phones.

Search for my responses here on charging cables... Sorry but I'm at 35,000 feet in an airliner and can't search very well to include a link. The "magic" to allow a charge current greater than 500ma is either in the stock AC charger or in a "charge only" cable. The data wires to the phone have to be shorted otherwise the phone will think that it is plugged into a computer and will start USB services and will limit the charging current. Cheapest to fabricate your own adapter!
Sent from my SCH-I510 using XDA Premium App

So it wont harm my battery at all to use my galaxy tab charger on my phone? What about in the long run will it degrade faster?

I think the phone has intelligent charging logic (like the newest iphones) so if you keep it cool it will take care of itself. YMMV however!
Sent from my SCH-I510 using XDA Premium App
Sent from my SCH-I510 using XDA Premium App

You could have a 10 amp charger, and if it is picked up as a computer/usb connection, the phone is going to pull the same amount of current as it would just plugging it in to your computer. The same goes for car and wall chargers that get picked up as a computer/usb connection. It doesn't matter what charge rate the charger supports, the phone is going to pull the same current as it is regulated to via the kernel. The only time it won't pull the full charge current it is setup to pull is if you have a charger that is rated for a slower charge rate than what the phone wants AND it won't allow charging above its stated capacity (any good charger should do this).
I have looked around (not much though) at how to make the charge rate faster before, but couldn't see how to do anything besides make the phone charge as fast over USB as it can via the wall charger. However, from what I have read, Li Ion batteries do better if they receive a slower charge to full and will not die as fast compared to being rapidly charged.

imnuts said:
You could have a 10 amp charger, and if it is picked up as a computer/usb connection, the phone is going to pull the same amount of current as it would just plugging it in to your computer. The same goes for car and wall chargers that get picked up as a computer/usb connection. It doesn't matter what charge rate the charger supports, the phone is going to pull the same current as it is regulated to via the kernel. The only time it won't pull the full charge current it is setup to pull is if you have a charger that is rated for a slower charge rate than what the phone wants AND it won't allow charging above its stated capacity (any good charger should do this).
I have looked around (not much though) at how to make the charge rate faster before, but couldn't see how to do anything besides make the phone charge as fast over USB as it can via the wall charger. However, from what I have read, Li Ion batteries do better if they receive a slower charge to full and will not die as fast compared to being rapidly charged.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Slow charging is true to some extent, but there is no need to charge our battery's under 1.5amp.
And shorting the two data pins on the USB doesn't work it looks for a specific resistance, I saw the ohm load somewhere, but now of course I can't find it lol..
When I get really bored tonight I will edit this and figure it out. But yeah our phones can easily pull 800ma or more with full screen brightness and maxed out processor. So that would result in no charging at all on some chargers. I use a 2a wall charger that came with my evo and it charges very very quickly. Never more than 1 hour to full charge unless I am gaming on it while it charges lol. This is using the cord that came with the phone of course so that it knows it isn't in a data enabled usb slot.

MasterRy88 said:
So it wont harm my battery at all to use my galaxy tab charger on my phone? What about in the long run will it degrade faster?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In electronics, when given a voltage source (as opposed to a current source) the Voltage is set to a fixed value. That is what our wall USB outlets are. Voltage sources
Think of Voltage like a waterfall. The water is always dropping from the same height. The voltage is always set to the same value.
The mA rating (the current) is determined by how much juice the phone can pull. Just because a charger is capable of supplying more current (say 1 or 2 amps), it doesn't mean that the Droid is going to draw that much current. However, if the droid is capable of pulling more current, it will benefit by charging faster.
Does that help at all?
*edit* Dang it. Didn't scroll down enough to see that imnuts posted already. Oh well, screw it. I'm leaving my post. lol. People who don't know about Voltage and Amperage need to hear the waterfall example at some point in their lives.

lane32x said:
In electronics, when given a voltage source (as opposed to a current source) the Voltage is set to a fixed value. That is what our wall USB outlets are. Voltage sources
Think of Voltage like a waterfall. The water is always dropping from the same height. The voltage is always set to the same value.
The mA rating (the current) is determined by how much juice the phone can pull. Just because a charger is capable of supplying more current (say 1 or 2 amps), it doesn't mean that the Droid is going to draw that much current. However, if the droid is capable of pulling more current, it will benefit by charging faster.
Does that help at all?
*edit* Dang it. Didn't scroll down enough to see that imnuts posted already. Oh well, screw it. I'm leaving my post. lol. People who don't know about Voltage and Amperage need to hear the waterfall example at some point in their lives.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't really understand this because voltage and amperage are different things...
Sent from my Droid Charge running GummyFroyo 1.9.1

skydeaner said:
When I get really bored tonight I will edit this and figure it out. But yeah our phones can easily pull 800ma or more with full screen brightness and maxed out processor. So that would result in no charging at all on some chargers. I use a 2a wall charger that came with my evo and it charges very very quickly. Never more than 1 hour to full charge unless I am gaming on it while it charges lol. This is using the cord that came with the phone of course so that it knows it isn't in a data enabled usb slot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you read anything I posted The phone is only going to pull a set charge rate, depending on what type of connection it sees. It doesn't care what power rating the connection has, it will pull as much power as it can, up to the limit defined in the power regulator of the kernel. You can use a 1A charger, or a 2A charger, doesn't matter, the phone is still only going to pull a set. The phone will pull 475mA via USB connection (your computer) or 800mA via an AC adapter (wall charger). Unless you figure out how to hack the battery driver to allow a faster charge, those are the two rates you get, regardless of how much power the wall charger can supply.
kvswim said:
I don't really understand this because voltage and amperage are different things...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A charger is going to provide a set voltage (5V I believe) and that is the only constant in the charging process for what is going into the phone. The amperage is going to be determined by the phone or the wall charger. The only time the wall charger will be the limiting part in charging is if its circuitry is setup to cut off charging over a certain level, and if it is rated for a lower charging rate, odds are, it probably won't cut it off and instead produce a fire hazard.
Something else people don't realize is that the charging rate isn't just bad for the battery if you charge to fast, pulling to much power in to charge the battery, especially while using the phone, creates a heat problem as well. While the phone will shut itself down before any major damage can occur, why would you even want to create a situation that could potentially damage the phone hardware?

imnuts said:
Did you read anything I posted The phone is only going to pull a set charge rate, depending on what type of connection it sees. It doesn't care what power rating the connection has, it will pull as much power as it can, up to the limit defined in the power regulator of the kernel. You can use a 1A charger, or a 2A charger, doesn't matter, the phone is still only going to pull a set. The phone will pull 475mA via USB connection (your computer) or 800mA via an AC adapter (wall charger). Unless you figure out how to hack the battery driver to allow a faster charge, those are the two rates you get, regardless of how much power the wall charger can supply.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
what about car chargers? i have one that I think is 2A and it seems to charge my phone a bit faster than my wall charger
blazing through on my VZ Droid Charge 4G

.7 Amp vs 1.0 Amp Charger

So the One X comes with a 1.0 Amp charger. The charger would not fit(too long) in the spot where I have been using my Samsung charger.
I compared the two and saw the only difference is the .7 A to 1.0 A. looked up if it was ok to use. Some even reported longer battery life with the slower charger. Makes some sense just lasts longer.
Maybe I am crazy but it seems like I get better battery life from the .7 charger.
I have went back and forth a few times....But of course not enough days to really tell.
thoughts?

Definitely overthinking it. It will just charge slower.

eallan said:
Definitely overthinking it. It will just charge slower.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, what he said.
To think of it another way, you can charge your phone via a USB connection to your computer, but it's much slower. This is because USB only provides 0.5 (or maybe it's 0.2?) Amps.
However, going with an adapter that's HIGHER than 1.0A could cause damage.

In the long run, slower charges will likely make your battery last more cycles. But on a per-cycle basis, it should not give better battery life.

If you run your battery down, the smaller charger (and definitely the case for PC USB because they max out at 500ma) may not be able to charge at all. In normal cases, it is fine.

Higher than 1a won't damage anything. .7 might not actually charge the battery 100% depending on if the phone thinks it is usb(500ma charging mode) or ac charger(wont charge properly).
Sent from my Desire HD using XDA

c5satellite2 said:
Higher than 1a won't damage anything. .7 might not actually charge the battery 100% depending on if the phone thinks it is usb(500ma charging mode) or ac charger(wont charge properly).
Sent from my Desire HD using XDA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This. The voltage is what really matters. The phone won't draw more than it can to charge. If it draws 1A while charging and you put it on a 2A charger, it will pull 1A. But if the voltages don't match up and there isn't a protection circuit for that type of problem, you could fry the electronics with a higher amperage.

100% on the voltage! That is the important one. .7a shouldnt be recognized as a real ac charger resulting in the phone thinking it is USB 500ma charging mode which is the same as pc, slow. If the device thinks the .7a charger is ac charging mode, the battery probably will never charge to 100%. In fact if you were at 100%, and the phone was in ac charging mode with a .7a charger, it would drain your battery! More than 1a, the phone will only draw what it is capable of. Some aftermarket chargers will still charge in USB 500ma mode because the phone won't recognize them as ac charging 1a mode. I had an old HTC charger once that did funny things to my inspire, it would open navigation every time it was plugged in(thought it was a car dock I guess). Use real OEM chargers if possible. They will charge the fastest, and you won't have issues. The real HTC chargers at 1a are much faster than the aftermarket chargers I have tried. I have a good Kensington 1a car and wall charger, and the HTC blows them away as far as speed!
Sent from my Desire HD using XDA

c5satellite2 said:
100% on the voltage! That is the important one. .7a shouldnt be recognized as a real ac charger resulting in the phone thinking it is USB 500ma charging mode which is the same as pc, slow. If the device thinks the .7a charger is ac charging mode, the battery probably will never charge to 100%.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually, AC charging mode or PC USB mode is not determined by amprage or volts (all use 5v). It is determined by how the data pins are terminated. Most non-Apple chargers terminate data pins the same way so they will be recognized as AC charger. Apple chargers are the ones that may not be recognized by the phone as AC chargers because Apple terminates data PINs different than everyone else. Regardless of the charging mode, they all can charge to 100% if they can initiate the charge.
LiIon battery charging circuitary is much more complicated than your normal AA chargers. It is regulated internally so that slightly variations of input voltage won't affect the charging. It has to internally control the charge process precisely so that it can terminate the process at the exact moment (overcharging results in explusion).

Input power supply being 0.7A or 1A has no bearing on the level to which the battery is filled. Even input voltage has no bearing! The only impact to the system will be the rate at which you can charge.

Not true. Some chargers make the device think it is a real ac charger, but do not provide enough to charge to 100%. And yes it has to do with pinout. Some ac chargers aren't recognized properly and results in USB charge mode even if they have more than 500ma available. Even if your pc provides more than the USB standard of 500ma, it will only draw 500ma and charge slowly.
Don't mess with the voltage, it WILL damage your device! The previous post should be ignored, and deleted.
Sent from my Desire HD using XDA

I use my touchpad charger and its 5.3v instead of 5v and its definitely charging my phone faster than the HTC stock charger. No affect on battery life though.
Sent from my HTC One X using XDA

5.3v or 5v is ok because there is a little leeway, and I'm sure the 5.3 isn't exactly 5.3 anyway. If it was, the extra .3v is probably within range, and is not blowing things up, just stressing them a little more, making some heat, and wearing them out slightly quicker.
Try a 12v charger, see what happens. LOL.
Seriously the 5.3v might actually be closer to 5v than a charger labeled 5v and therefore could result in better charging. Remember, input voltage varies as well. Your electricity could go under 100v or as high as 120v. Our electric grid is not very consistent. Supply is constantly being adjusted to meet demand, resulting in widely varying voltages. I have seen it dip into the low 90v range on hot summer afternoons, and rarely in the 115v-120v range where it should be. The 5.0 volt charger would result in the best performance if it was actually putting out a TRUE 5v. A high quality charger, with high quality, consistent, 115v input power that is properly rated is ideal. In reality it doesn't exist.
5.3v close enough, might actually be better. One way to tell, put the voltmeter on it!
If you have access to volt/multimeter, could you post your ac voltage at the outlet and the dc voltage coming out of the 5.3v charger. Could be interesting. How many amps is the charger also? Might have to get one.
Sent from my Desire HD using XDA

Dont have that but this is the link to it
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0055QYJJM
I'll provide the exact specs when I get home.
Sent from my HTC One X using XDA

Can you clarify what you mean by this?
c5satellite2 said:
Not true. Some chargers make the device think it is a real ac charger, but do not provide enough to charge to 100%.
Sent from my Desire HD using XDA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Either an input power provides power or it doesn't. The only reason it would "stop" is if the charger in the phone runs out of headroom and I have yet to see this with any AC/DC or USB supply.
The whole issue of whether or not the phone identifies the power supply is an entirely separate discussion. But once it does identify and begin charging it will do so until completion.
---------- Post added at 12:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:05 PM ----------
c5satellite2 said:
The 5.0 volt charger would result in the best performance if it was actually putting out a TRUE 5v.
Sent from my Desire HD using XDA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is not true. Take two AC/DC adapters...
A) [email protected] = 4.24W
B) [email protected] =4.00W
The HTC One X has an internal switching charger with dynamic input power limiting. So it will actually be able to draw MORE current from Adapter A than Adapter B. Also, because the charger in the One X is a switching charger there will be negligible extra heat generated and no excessive wear and tear.

how did you know?
racerex said:
Can you clarify what you mean by this?
Either an input power provides power or it doesn't. The only reason it would "stop" is if the charger in the phone runs out of headroom and I have yet to see this with any AC/DC or USB supply.
The whole issue of whether or not the phone identifies the power supply is an entirely separate discussion. But once it does identify and begin charging it will do so until completion.
---------- Post added at 12:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:05 PM ----------
This is not true. Take two AC/DC adapters...
A) [email protected] = 4.24W
B) [email protected] =4.00W
The HTC One X has an internal switching charger with dynamic input power limiting. So it will actually be able to draw MORE current from Adapter A than Adapter B. Also, because the charger in the One X is a switching charger there will be negligible extra heat generated and no excessive wear and tear.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Htc has input power limiting? Internal switching charger? Where did you get this information?

The plugpack will be voltage regulated(to protect from overvoltage with under designed load) not ampage regulated.
The battery charges via voltage float, the higher the voltage the quicker the charge, but the voltage is regulated anyways so there is no fast and slow charge. It is charging or it's not. The charge circuit steps up and down the voltage to give fast/slow charge not the plugpack in mobile phones.
1.0a versus 0.7a just means the rated output is lower. It does not change the load. All that happens is the 0.7a will be running over its rated output which results in running hotter and potential running undervoltage.
Running 0.7a is not good if the battery charge circuit will draw 1.0a by design. Your plugpack just becomes a firerisk.
You should always match the designed specifications, eg 12v 1.0a.
The device expects a 12v(or close) input and should be able to draw 1.0a without issue.
If you over or under volt the charge circuit it could blow up, if you over draw the supply it might melt.

is it ok to charge 0.7A battery with 1.0A charger

omer101 said:
is it ok to charge 0.7A battery with 1.0A charger
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you not read the thread?
Sent from my Evita

[Q] Wireless Charging + Daydream Bizarre Performance

This is my first experience with wireless charging so I'm probably missing the obvious here so please, anybody, point that out.
I'm newly using a wireless charger with my N5 & performance just doesn't make any sense to me. It's the Korean/Chinese knock-off of the N4 Orb which others on XDA have used successfully. On basic charging it does work but I can't make any sense of these numbers:
Charging I get roughly 10% per hour -- not great, but okay for bedside/overnight.
Charging with daydream on (Dashclock) on I get a loss of roughly 10% per hour! Yes, the phone keeps indicating it is charging in spite of this heavy drain.
But sometimes daydream just turns off & it returns to charging -- this seems to happen if I start off with the phone (mostly) charged. For the most part though, if I leave the phone on the charger overnight with daydream enabled I'll wake to a nearly empty battery.
As I said, these numbers make no sense to me at all. Part of the problem may be the power source for the orb - it's only 1A but even if it's underpowered I can't see the drop from +10% to -10% /hour.
Second part of my query -- does anyone know if it would be effective (and safe!) to feed 1.2A to the orb & maybe get faster charge. Or maybe that would be enough to keep up with the Daydream drain?
FWIW the the USB charger (1.2A) is very fast, I get better than 1% per minute -- unaffected by Daydream.

im using this and mine gets full charge within 1 and half hours
Sent from my Nexus 5 using xda app-developers app

10% per hour? Something's wrong. A wireless charger shouldn't take much longer than wired.
It's possible your adapter is a dud. Try using the 1.2a adapter, it'll be fine. If it still isn't faster, you might have a bad charger.
Also, if it came with a USB cable, don't use it. The wires are too small to carry a reasonable amount of current.

NotFromMountainView said:
This is my first experience with wireless charging so I'm probably missing the obvious here so please, anybody, point that out.
I'm newly using a wireless charger with my N5 & performance just doesn't make any sense to me. It's the Korean/Chinese knock-off of the N4 Orb which others on XDA have used successfully. On basic charging it does work but I can't make any sense of these numbers:
Charging I get roughly 10% per hour -- not great, but okay for bedside/overnight.
Charging with daydream on (Dashclock) on I get a loss of roughly 10% per hour! Yes, the phone keeps indicating it is charging in spite of this heavy drain.
But sometimes daydream just turns off & it returns to charging -- this seems to happen if I start off with the phone (mostly) charged. For the most part though, if I leave the phone on the charger overnight with daydream enabled I'll wake to a nearly empty battery.
As I said, these numbers make no sense to me at all. Part of the problem may be the power source for the orb - it's only 1A but even if it's underpowered I can't see the drop from +10% to -10% /hour.
Second part of my query -- does anyone know if it would be effective (and safe!) to feed 1.2A to the orb & maybe get faster charge. Or maybe that would be enough to keep up with the Daydream drain?
FWIW the the USB charger (1.2A) is very fast, I get better than 1% per minute -- unaffected by Daydream.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So I'm using DashClock also and when it doesn't crash, my phone will charge just fine. Seems like about 3 hours total with daydream on, and about 2 hours with it off just regular charging. Here's my charger: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DOW1RD0/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Seems like you have a defective charger but it is a really weird situation.

Thanks guys, the jump to 1.2A made a world of difference! It still seems strange, but I guess there's a minimum threshold for the phone to properly charge. (I am really guessing!) Plugging the OEM charger into my qi orb I finally get a positive charge with daydream -- not fast, but good enough to wake with a charged phone! Without daydream I just got about 36% in the past hour.
A quick scan of eBay and the only 1.2A USB supplies I can find are refurbished LG & cost as much as the full qi orb! (from US with crazy shipping costs on these - I'm in Canada) But there are lots of 1.5A blocks, cheap (and free shipping from China). So... do you think it would be safe to try the 1.5A? According to Play the Google qi comes with a 1.8A supply but I have no idea how much the pad modulates the power or if that is all in the phone itself. It would be nice to have fast wireless charging, but with the dramatic jump with just the .2A increase I may be looking at something too powerful.
My concerns are (in order) 1. Don't want to fry the phone!
2. Don't want to burn down my apartment!
3. Would rather not trash the orb. The orb was inexpensive so I'm willing to gamble on point # 3.
Advice / assurances / suggestions? Please.
Mr. Sprinkles said:
Also, if it came with a USB cable, don't use it. The wires are too small to carry a reasonable amount of current.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I assume you mean USB out from PC since OEM charger is USB and orb power supply is USB as well. Point taken on PC charging though.

NotFromMountainView said:
Thanks guys, the jump to 1.2A made a world of difference! It still seems strange, but I guess there's a minimum threshold for the phone to properly charge. (I am really guessing!) Plugging the OEM charger into my qi orb I finally get a positive charge with daydream -- not fast, but good enough to wake with a charged phone! Without daydream I just got about 36% in the past hour.
A quick scan of eBay and the only 1.2A USB supplies I can find are refurbished LG & cost as much as the full qi orb! (from US with crazy shipping costs on these - I'm in Canada) But there are lots of 1.5A blocks, cheap (and free shipping from China). So... do you think it would be safe to try the 1.5A? According to Play the Google qi comes with a 1.8A supply but I have no idea how much the pad modulates the power or if that is all in the phone itself. It would be nice to have fast wireless charging, but with the dramatic jump with just the .2A increase I may be looking at something too powerful.
My concerns are (in order) 1. Don't want to fry the phone!
2. Don't want to burn down my apartment!
3. Would rather not trash the orb. The orb was inexpensive so I'm willing to gamble on point # 3.
Advice / assurances / suggestions? Please.
I assume you mean USB out from PC since OEM charger is USB and orb power supply is USB as well. Point taken on PC charging though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The official orb charger comes with a 1.8a brick. You should be fine.
Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk 4

NotFromMountainView said:
Thanks guys, the jump to 1.2A made a world of difference! [...] you mean USB out from PC since OEM charger is USB and orb power supply is USB as well. Point taken on PC charging though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I mean if your orb uses a USB cable and came with one, don't use the cable it came with. They're often very cheap and add a lot of resistance which will increase charge time.
It wasn't the step up to 1.2A that made a world of difference, it's using a quality adapter that made the difference. Your 1A adapter must have been faulty or grossly overrated. Sounds like it was putting out less than 500mA.
As for a higher amperage power supply somehow damaging things? Not possible. The circuitry in the wireless charger is only going to use what it needs, you could hook it up to a 50A power supply and it'll still draw around 1A. The N5 is also input current limited to 1.2A, so using a crazy high amperage adapter won't have much benefit anyway.
Still, not a bad idea to get a 1.5A - 2A adapter to compensate for whatever current the wireless charger itself uses. This is probably why the official one includes a 1.8A adapter.

Mr. Sprinkles said:
10% per hour? Something's wrong. A wireless charger shouldn't take much longer than wired.
It's possible your adapter is a dud. Try using the 1.2a adapter, it'll be fine. If it still isn't faster, you might have a bad charger.
Also, if it came with a USB cable, don't use it. The wires are too small to carry a reasonable amount of current.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mr. Sprinkles said:
I mean if your orb uses a USB cable and came with one, don't use the cable it came with. They're often very cheap and add a lot of resistance which will increase charge time.
It wasn't the step up to 1.2A that made a world of difference, it's using a quality adapter that made the difference. Your 1A adapter must have been faulty or grossly overrated. Sounds like it was putting out less than 500mA.
As for a higher amperage power supply somehow damaging things? Not possible. The circuitry in the wireless charger is only going to use what it needs, you could hook it up to a 50A power supply and it'll still draw around 1A. The N5 is also input current limited to 1.2A, so using a crazy high amperage adapter won't have much benefit anyway.
Still, not a bad idea to get a 1.5A - 2A adapter to compensate for whatever current the wireless charger itself uses. This is probably why the official one includes a 1.8A adapter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
El Daddy & Mr. Sprinkles thanks, that's just the type of reassurance I needed!

just use the 2,1A amazon kindle charger with your orb... its cheap, safe and wont fry your phone
Gesendet von meinem Nexus 5 mit Tapatalk

Mr. Sprinkles said:
I mean if your orb uses a USB cable and came with one, don't use the cable it came with. They're often very cheap and add a lot of resistance which will increase charge time.
It wasn't the step up to 1.2A that made a world of difference, it's using a quality adapter that made the difference. Your 1A adapter must have been faulty or grossly overrated. Sounds like it was putting out less than 500mA.
As for a higher amperage power supply somehow damaging things? Not possible. The circuitry in the wireless charger is only going to use what it needs, you could hook it up to a 50A power supply and it'll still draw around 1A. The N5 is also input current limited to 1.2A, so using a crazy high amperage adapter won't have much benefit anyway.
Still, not a bad idea to get a 1.5A - 2A adapter to compensate for whatever current the wireless charger itself uses. This is probably why the official one includes a 1.8A adapter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So from what I heard wireless charging, like a pogo plug can charge at a higher rate than the micro USB port in some devices (I've heard pogo plug can go up to 2.5A where the micro USB in that device is limited to 1.8A). So I'm wondering as these qi chargers get better, will this also be true. Mine is a 1A but seems like it charges around .8A so it's maxed out. I guess this also raises the question as to how fast is good for a battery also.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

How much over 5v. can the nexus 5 take

Moved from general sorry
I just bought a Anker 24W / 4.8A Dual-Port Car Charger. I bought this to replace a cheap $2 charger that I did not want to use on my nexus 5
I just tested the anker charger and it puts out 5.24v-5.29v. I know that does not sound like much but all my other chargers AC wallwarts, and even the cheap $2 car charger all put out 4.95v-5.02v.
Should I go a head and use this anker car charger or should I return it? Thanks.

That's just how much the charge puts out. The phone may not accept that much input.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using xda app-developers app

Typically there is a boost/buck or other relatively efficient voltage regulator in the phones that manages the battery charging, so the 5% "over-voltage" that you are seeing shouldn't be an issue.
I'm guessing you measured that with no load -- most wall-warts run a little high without load, and then a little low at full load, so they can claim good regulation (+/-5%, for example) and a high current capacity. The change is due to internal resistance of the supply, something that you can compensate for, but can't ever get rid of.

LZLandingZone said:
That's just how much the charge puts out. The phone may not accept that much input.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Only when talking current. Voltage is completely different.

jeffsf said:
Typically there is a boost/buck or other relatively efficient voltage regulator in the phones that manages the battery charging, so the 5% "over-voltage" that you are seeing shouldn't be an issue.
I'm guessing you measured that with no load -- most wall-warts run a little high without load, and then a little low at full load, so they can claim good regulation (+/-5%, for example) and a high current capacity. The change is due to internal resistance of the supply, something that you can compensate for, but can't ever get rid of.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks,
No I measured with a load. I have a voltage current usb meter.
http://dx.com/p/usb-av-usb-power-current-voltage-tester-translucent-blue-silver-235090#.Uu2NRXddWLc
I just did another test. This time with my phone almost at 95% full. I got 5.33v while sucking down 332mha.
Im sending it back. I tested every charger brick and several other devices in my home. nothing came even remotely close to 5.3v
USB specs are 5.0v +-0.25% so I should see no more then 5.25v.