[Q] Faster Charger? Please advise - Verizon Droid Charge

Hey,
I noticed that the droid charge has a bigger battery but it take a lifetime to charge.. is there a better charger I can get other than the one that came stock with the phone? Please let me know. I would really appreciate it.

The stock actually charges fast compared to USB...use a higher amperage charger with the stock usb cord (so it doesn't limit to 500ma). I use my Galaxy Tab charger...works great
Sent from my Droid Charge running GummyFroyo 1.9.1

kvswim said:
The stock actually charges fast compared to USB...use a higher amperage charger with the stock usb cord (so it doesn't limit to 500ma). I use my Galaxy Tab charger...works great
Sent from my Droid Charge running GummyFroyo 1.9.1
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Well I am using the USB in the pc and the battery has not moved once notch ... has to be the rom (gingerbread) or the combnation of usb cord and charger.

stepinmyworld said:
Well I am using the USB in the pc and the battery has not moved once notch ... has to be the rom (gingerbread) or the combnation of usb cord and charger.
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PC USB ports do not do a good job charging phones. they don't have a lot of power going to them. In addition, if you're using your phone while its charging from your computer you will not likely see it charging at all since all the power its getting is going to whatever it is your doing.
The same is true of car chargers. I had mine plugged in in the car for 45 minutes using the GPS. It charged 2%. The point is, the only real effective way to charge your phone is by using a regular outlet.

streetlightman said:
PC USB ports do not do a good job charging phones. they don't have a lot of power going to them. In addition, if you're using your phone while its charging from your computer you will not likely see it charging at all since all the power its getting is going to whatever it is your doing.
The same is true of car chargers. I had mine plugged in in the car for 45 minutes using the GPS. It charged 2%. The point is, the only real effective way to charge your phone is by using a regular outlet.
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Correct about the pc charging; it only runs at .5 amps (500 ma) while the stock charger has 1 amp. However, the car charger really depends on what kind you're using. I use a 2A and it charges fine.
Sent from my Droid Charge running GummyFroyo 1.9.1

streetlightman said:
PC USB ports do not do a good job charging phones. they don't have a lot of power going to them. In addition, if you're using your phone while its charging from your computer you will not likely see it charging at all since all the power its getting is going to whatever it is your doing.
The same is true of car chargers. I had mine plugged in in the car for 45 minutes using the GPS. It charged 2%. The point is, the only real effective way to charge your phone is by using a regular outlet.
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ok cool. so i could just look for a charger will higher voltage being delivered. I hope i get the right one that is compatible to the droid charge. Dont wanna burn the battery out etc

No, not voltage. Amperage. Big difference. Just get a charger with a USB port and a high amperage...I don't think you'll find a higher amp charger specifically compatible with the Charge.
Sent from my Droid Charge running GummyFroyo 1.9.1

kvswim said:
No, not voltage. Amperage. Big difference. Just get a charger with a USB port and a high amperage...I don't think you'll find a higher amp charger specifically compatible with the Charge.
Sent from my Droid Charge running GummyFroyo 1.9.1
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ok thanks!

You need a charger that won't be seen as a USB connection on the phone. If the phone thinks that it is plugged into your computer, it will charge at roughly half the rate of the wall charger. Wall charger will charge at ~700mA I believe, and the USB/Computer connection will charge at ~400mA. You can find the actual numbers in the power regulator driver in the kernel source though.

I have a motorola 950 amp car charger I got off amazon for $5. It works well but if the screen is full bright and I'm running navagation I have seen the battery level drop. To keep up you need a 1+amp charger. That being said the harder you charge the batteries the quicker they will wear out.

imnuts said:
You need a charger that won't be seen as a USB connection on the phone. If the phone thinks that it is plugged into your computer, it will charge at roughly half the rate of the wall charger. Wall charger will charge at ~700mA I believe, and the USB/Computer connection will charge at ~400mA. You can find the actual numbers in the power regulator driver in the kernel source though.
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This is pretty interesting. I'm not a phone dev or an electrician, but I assume these mA numbers are something that are 1) lower than what is actually safe and 2) might be able to be tweaked by a dev with nothing better to do. Not that you are even close to falling in that category, but I think many users would be quite interested in being able to get more charge out of shorter durations, albeit at the risk of burning out their phones.

Search for my responses here on charging cables... Sorry but I'm at 35,000 feet in an airliner and can't search very well to include a link. The "magic" to allow a charge current greater than 500ma is either in the stock AC charger or in a "charge only" cable. The data wires to the phone have to be shorted otherwise the phone will think that it is plugged into a computer and will start USB services and will limit the charging current. Cheapest to fabricate your own adapter!
Sent from my SCH-I510 using XDA Premium App

So it wont harm my battery at all to use my galaxy tab charger on my phone? What about in the long run will it degrade faster?

I think the phone has intelligent charging logic (like the newest iphones) so if you keep it cool it will take care of itself. YMMV however!
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Sent from my SCH-I510 using XDA Premium App

You could have a 10 amp charger, and if it is picked up as a computer/usb connection, the phone is going to pull the same amount of current as it would just plugging it in to your computer. The same goes for car and wall chargers that get picked up as a computer/usb connection. It doesn't matter what charge rate the charger supports, the phone is going to pull the same current as it is regulated to via the kernel. The only time it won't pull the full charge current it is setup to pull is if you have a charger that is rated for a slower charge rate than what the phone wants AND it won't allow charging above its stated capacity (any good charger should do this).
I have looked around (not much though) at how to make the charge rate faster before, but couldn't see how to do anything besides make the phone charge as fast over USB as it can via the wall charger. However, from what I have read, Li Ion batteries do better if they receive a slower charge to full and will not die as fast compared to being rapidly charged.

imnuts said:
You could have a 10 amp charger, and if it is picked up as a computer/usb connection, the phone is going to pull the same amount of current as it would just plugging it in to your computer. The same goes for car and wall chargers that get picked up as a computer/usb connection. It doesn't matter what charge rate the charger supports, the phone is going to pull the same current as it is regulated to via the kernel. The only time it won't pull the full charge current it is setup to pull is if you have a charger that is rated for a slower charge rate than what the phone wants AND it won't allow charging above its stated capacity (any good charger should do this).
I have looked around (not much though) at how to make the charge rate faster before, but couldn't see how to do anything besides make the phone charge as fast over USB as it can via the wall charger. However, from what I have read, Li Ion batteries do better if they receive a slower charge to full and will not die as fast compared to being rapidly charged.
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Slow charging is true to some extent, but there is no need to charge our battery's under 1.5amp.
And shorting the two data pins on the USB doesn't work it looks for a specific resistance, I saw the ohm load somewhere, but now of course I can't find it lol..
When I get really bored tonight I will edit this and figure it out. But yeah our phones can easily pull 800ma or more with full screen brightness and maxed out processor. So that would result in no charging at all on some chargers. I use a 2a wall charger that came with my evo and it charges very very quickly. Never more than 1 hour to full charge unless I am gaming on it while it charges lol. This is using the cord that came with the phone of course so that it knows it isn't in a data enabled usb slot.

MasterRy88 said:
So it wont harm my battery at all to use my galaxy tab charger on my phone? What about in the long run will it degrade faster?
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In electronics, when given a voltage source (as opposed to a current source) the Voltage is set to a fixed value. That is what our wall USB outlets are. Voltage sources
Think of Voltage like a waterfall. The water is always dropping from the same height. The voltage is always set to the same value.
The mA rating (the current) is determined by how much juice the phone can pull. Just because a charger is capable of supplying more current (say 1 or 2 amps), it doesn't mean that the Droid is going to draw that much current. However, if the droid is capable of pulling more current, it will benefit by charging faster.
Does that help at all?
*edit* Dang it. Didn't scroll down enough to see that imnuts posted already. Oh well, screw it. I'm leaving my post. lol. People who don't know about Voltage and Amperage need to hear the waterfall example at some point in their lives.

lane32x said:
In electronics, when given a voltage source (as opposed to a current source) the Voltage is set to a fixed value. That is what our wall USB outlets are. Voltage sources
Think of Voltage like a waterfall. The water is always dropping from the same height. The voltage is always set to the same value.
The mA rating (the current) is determined by how much juice the phone can pull. Just because a charger is capable of supplying more current (say 1 or 2 amps), it doesn't mean that the Droid is going to draw that much current. However, if the droid is capable of pulling more current, it will benefit by charging faster.
Does that help at all?
*edit* Dang it. Didn't scroll down enough to see that imnuts posted already. Oh well, screw it. I'm leaving my post. lol. People who don't know about Voltage and Amperage need to hear the waterfall example at some point in their lives.
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I don't really understand this because voltage and amperage are different things...
Sent from my Droid Charge running GummyFroyo 1.9.1

skydeaner said:
When I get really bored tonight I will edit this and figure it out. But yeah our phones can easily pull 800ma or more with full screen brightness and maxed out processor. So that would result in no charging at all on some chargers. I use a 2a wall charger that came with my evo and it charges very very quickly. Never more than 1 hour to full charge unless I am gaming on it while it charges lol. This is using the cord that came with the phone of course so that it knows it isn't in a data enabled usb slot.
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Did you read anything I posted The phone is only going to pull a set charge rate, depending on what type of connection it sees. It doesn't care what power rating the connection has, it will pull as much power as it can, up to the limit defined in the power regulator of the kernel. You can use a 1A charger, or a 2A charger, doesn't matter, the phone is still only going to pull a set. The phone will pull 475mA via USB connection (your computer) or 800mA via an AC adapter (wall charger). Unless you figure out how to hack the battery driver to allow a faster charge, those are the two rates you get, regardless of how much power the wall charger can supply.
kvswim said:
I don't really understand this because voltage and amperage are different things...
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A charger is going to provide a set voltage (5V I believe) and that is the only constant in the charging process for what is going into the phone. The amperage is going to be determined by the phone or the wall charger. The only time the wall charger will be the limiting part in charging is if its circuitry is setup to cut off charging over a certain level, and if it is rated for a lower charging rate, odds are, it probably won't cut it off and instead produce a fire hazard.
Something else people don't realize is that the charging rate isn't just bad for the battery if you charge to fast, pulling to much power in to charge the battery, especially while using the phone, creates a heat problem as well. While the phone will shut itself down before any major damage can occur, why would you even want to create a situation that could potentially damage the phone hardware?

imnuts said:
Did you read anything I posted The phone is only going to pull a set charge rate, depending on what type of connection it sees. It doesn't care what power rating the connection has, it will pull as much power as it can, up to the limit defined in the power regulator of the kernel. You can use a 1A charger, or a 2A charger, doesn't matter, the phone is still only going to pull a set. The phone will pull 475mA via USB connection (your computer) or 800mA via an AC adapter (wall charger). Unless you figure out how to hack the battery driver to allow a faster charge, those are the two rates you get, regardless of how much power the wall charger can supply.
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what about car chargers? i have one that I think is 2A and it seems to charge my phone a bit faster than my wall charger
blazing through on my VZ Droid Charge 4G

Related

Can you mess up the Droid Charge by leaving it plugged in overnight?

When the droid charge is fully charged it puts an alert on the screen saying so and saying to disconnect it from the charger... obviously when you are sleeping you won't see this message... so is it okay to keep the charger plugged in for like 12 hours? can the phone OVERcharge itself and hurt the battery life?
I have killed the battery and fully charged it and over charged on purposed and haven't seen this message.
ShotgunSam said:
I have killed the battery and fully charged it and over charged on purposed and haven't seen this message.
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I get the message too every time charge reaches 100%
No. Samsung Androids will stop charging at 100% (that's when the message pops) and won't start again until the battery has dropped to 95%.
Getting rid of the nag will be one of the first mods to drop.
yup message definately shows... but once the message shows does it automatically STOP accepting the charge or does it OVER charge itself if left plugged in?
Please reread my post.
just saw it now.. sorry..
how are you certain of this?
also, is it okay to use a Blackberry Bold AC charger on the Samsung Droid Charge? the output voltage is the same but the output Amps are slightly different.. the Droid Charger is 1,000 millamps output.. the blackberry charger is 700 miliamps output
s44 said:
Please reread my post.
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aliensquale said:
also, is it okay to use a Blackberry Bold AC charger on the Samsung Droid Charge? the output voltage is the same but the output Amps are slightly different.. the Droid Charger is 1,000 millamps output.. the blackberry charger is 700 miliamps output
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You might be ok using the BB charger, but I don't know. It would be safer to use one rated for 1000mA or greater. I haven't looked to see what the charging rate is yet on the Charge, but on the Fascinate it was only 600mA max.
aliensquale said:
how are you certain of this?
also, is it okay to use a Blackberry Bold AC charger on the Samsung Droid Charge? the output voltage is the same but the output Amps are slightly different.. the Droid Charger is 1,000 millamps output.. the blackberry charger is 700 miliamps output
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Because every other Samsung phone works like this.
Also, they auto-limit their current intake from charging cables (there was a *lot* of experimenting with these in the Vibrant and Captivate forums last year). So it's safe -- but no faster -- to use a higher-current charger. Lower-current should be fine, too -- they'll just take longer.
The main problem with using BB chargers:
(1) the micro-USB tip might not go in all the way. Other Galaxy S models (dunno about the Charge specifically) have a particularly recessed port that's finicky with many non-Samsung cables/chargers.
(2) the phone might not detect it as a wall charger. I believe Galaxy S phones detect to see if the data lines on USB are shorted together, which some but not all non-Samsung chargers do in the same way. If it doesn't detect as a wall unit, it will charge but the current intake will be much more restricted on the phone end (so it will take longer).
It may not give you the full 1a from the wall, but this cheap charger works great on older Galaxy S models.
thanks for the info.. well I guess I will have to figure out what the Samsung Droid Charge actually PULLS for the charge...
since the BB Charger is putting out 5 volts and 700 miliamps.. if the Samsung needs more than 700 miliamps then it may detect as a USB charger and just charge slower.. which really doesn't matter to me since it will be plugged in for about 8 hours straight while I'm sleeping... I just wanted to make sure I could NOT overcharge it and hurt something inside the phone.
I just found that if you go into the phone status screen under the settings and you plug it in via either USB or AC Charger it will say 'Charging USB' or 'Charging AC' respectively.. just tested that with a Blackberry Bold ac charger it it says 'Charging AC' so I guess the Droid Charge is pulling LESS than 700 milamps because that's what the BB Bold charger is outputting..
The Charge charges at 475mA via wireless charging or USB (computer) connection, and 800mA via wall charger. See here - lines 3125 to 3150.
imnuts said:
The Charge charges at 475mA via wireless charging or USB (computer) connection, and 800mA via wall charger. See here - lines 3125 to 3150.
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Good to know. I was wondering why usb charging took/felt longer than wall charging.
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yyhd said:
Good to know. I was wondering why usb charging took/felt longer than wall charging.
Sent from my SCH-I510 using XDA Premium App
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Most devices work this way. USB power via your computer can't safely sustain the charge rate that a wall outlet can. To avoid issues, they just set it up to charge slower over the USB connection compared to via a wall charger.
Long story short: if the phone manufacturer has any common sense they know to stop the charging at 100%, let it back off to about 90% and trickle it. That's how most new smartphones work.
aliensquale said:
When the droid charge is fully charged it puts an alert on the screen saying so and saying to disconnect it from the charger... obviously when you are sleeping you won't see this message... so is it okay to keep the charger plugged in for like 12 hours? can the phone OVERcharge itself and hurt the battery life?
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Nope, the phone stops charging when the battery reaches target voltage and shuts the port off completely if the battery gets over a certain temperature.

Charging the Infuse in the car

Does anyone have issues charging the infuse using the car charger? It seems like it takes forever
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reissy said:
Does anyone have issues charging the infuse using the car charger? It seems like it takes forever
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Yes it will be buddy theres no yet i.found that leaving it alone and not using it is only way.to.enhance performance
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reissy said:
Does anyone have issues charging the infuse using the car charger? It seems like it takes forever
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using XDA App
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Which car charger? The AT&T one?
The AT&T one sucks - very low current limit, and it's detected as a USB charger by the Infuse and not as full-current charger.
If you use the car dock, any high-current charger (like iPad chargers) will work with the Infuse.
If you don't use the car dock, if you use an iPad/iPhone charger, you have to open up the charger and short the D+ and D- pins of the USB connector of the charger with a solder blob, or use a "charging adapter" cable. (Apparently AT&T sells such a cable - the negative reviews for not working for data transfer mean it'll work great for charging from iPhone/iPad USB chargers.) I use the 1A port of a Scosche reVIVE II with the D+ and D- pins solder-blobbed together.
Also, if the CPU is running and the screen is on, CPU and screen usage count against the phone's charge current limit, so will significantly reduce charge rate. (Samsung noobed that one...)
I found that turning off the data makes it charge faster!
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debra said:
I found that turning off the data makes it charge faster!
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Samsung noobed it up in this phone's charging design - CPU/screen, and maybe even radio current usage count against the phone's charge current limit. This means that instead of 600 mA going only to the battery, it's 600 mA going to battery and all sorts of stuff - so the battery gets far less. This is why battery can actually drain while running navigation.
However the AT&T charger itself imposes a lower current limit than this, so even if Samsung hadn't noobed it, you'd still get a slow charge.
Entropy512 said:
Samsung noobed it up in this phone's charging design - CPU/screen, and maybe even radio current usage count against the phone's charge current limit. This means that instead of 600 mA going only to the battery, it's 600 mA going to battery and all sorts of stuff - so the battery gets far less. This is why battery can actually drain while running navigation.
However the AT&T charger itself imposes a lower current limit than this, so even if Samsung hadn't noobed it, you'd still get a slow charge.
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Do you think it would charge faster under GingerBread? I cannot have a phone like this if it takes forever and a day to charge. That just sucks.
reissy said:
Do you think it would charge faster under GingerBread? I cannot have a phone like this if it takes forever and a day to charge. That just sucks.
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I won't know until I've had a chance to look at the source drop.
Ideally:
They've fixed it so CPU/screen/etc usage doesn't count against charge current.
Workaround if they haven't:
It's possible to bump charge current up to 800 mA (stock is 600 mA). While this initially seems like only a 25% boost to charging, the fact that CPU/screen/etc is using part of the charge current limit means actual battery current will be up significantly more than 25%.
Entropy512 said:
I won't know until I've had a chance to look at the source drop.
Ideally:
They've fixed it so CPU/screen/etc usage doesn't count against charge current.
Workaround if they haven't:
It's possible to bump charge current up to 800 mA (stock is 600 mA). While this initially seems like only a 25% boost to charging, the fact that CPU/screen/etc is using part of the charge current limit means actual battery current will be up significantly more than 25%.
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Interesting. I wonder if a custom kernel could fix this issue. Is that possible?
Entropy512 said:
Which car charger? The AT&T one?
The AT&T one sucks - very low current limit, and it's detected as a USB charger by the Infuse and not as full-current charger.
If you use the car dock, any high-current charger (like iPad chargers) will work with the Infuse.
If you don't use the car dock, if you use an iPad/iPhone charger, you have to open up the charger and short the D+ and D- pins of the USB connector of the charger with a solder blob, or use a "charging adapter" cable. (Apparently AT&T sells such a cable - the negative reviews for not working for data transfer mean it'll work great for charging from iPhone/iPad USB chargers.) I use the 1A port of a Scosche reVIVE II with the D+ and D- pins solder-blobbed together.
Also, if the CPU is running and the screen is on, CPU and screen usage count against the phone's charge current limit, so will significantly reduce charge rate. (Samsung noobed that one...)
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Would one of these work? I use it on my Galaxy Tab 10.1. It has a data/charge switch.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330565218553&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
reissy said:
Interesting. I wonder if a custom kernel could fix this issue. Is that possible?
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Click to collapse
It is entirely possible to crank the charge current up to 800 mA - I've done it and have been testing it on my phone. I have some additional stuff I want to do before general public release which is hard because the charge control stuff is major spaghetti code in the Froyo kernel. I'm hoping the GB kernel source is a bit cleaner.
I am not sure if it is possible to fix the fact that CPU/screen/etc usage is counted against the battery charge current limit. This may be simply bad hardware design. There's a slight possibility that it may just be that a register in the MAX8998 is being set improperly, such as the ESAFEOUT bits. When I get home and take a look at the GB kernel I'll know for sure. The problem is that the MAX8998 datasheet is proprietary and so the only documentation for this chip is the kernel source itself - which isn't particularly good for a number of aspects of the chip.
MisterEdF said:
Would one of these work? I use it on my Galaxy Tab 10.1. It has a data/charge switch.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330565218553&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
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I'll test - I've got a charger modded for charging my Tab 10.1, but I haven't tested it with the Infuse. I know solder-blobbing D+ and D- of an iPad charger works, but not what happens if you mangle the resistors in such a way that Tab 10.1s charge.
I have a charger from Griffin that works with my iPad that is a mini cig lighter adapter plug with a USB plug in it. It comes with a 30 pin cable for iDevices, but if I plug the micro USB cable that came with my Infuse it works great and charges relatively fast... I haven't done any serious testing, but from what I can tell it's much faster than if it were charging off my laptop's USB, but not as fast as being plugged into the wall.
What I think makes the difference is the fact that the charger is iPad capable, which means it's rated to output more power than the basic iPhone/pod versions. The iPad requires something like 2.1 amps compared to the .5 amps the normal usb chargers put out. This is why most laptops older than about 3 years can't charge the iPad via usb.
Now, I know my reference to "amps" I will be corrected or clarified. I'm no electrical engineer, lol... but what I'm going off is he output listing on the chargers. Bottom line is the iPads need a lot more juice and maybe so do our Infuses.
Hope this helps/makes sense!
tazm0n said:
I have a charger from Griffin that works with my iPad that is a mini cig lighter adapter plug with a USB plug in it. It comes with a 30 pin cable for iDevices, but if I plug the micro USB cable that came with my Infuse it works great and charges relatively fast... I haven't done any serious testing, but from what I can tell it's much faster than if it were charging off my laptop's USB, but not as fast as being plugged into the wall.
What I think makes the difference is the fact that the charger is iPad capable, which means it's rated to output more power than the basic iPhone/pod versions. The iPad requires something like 2.1 amps compared to the .5 amps the normal usb chargers put out. This is why most laptops older than about 3 years can't charge the iPad via usb.
Now, I know my reference to "amps" I will be corrected or clarified. I'm no electrical engineer, lol... but what I'm going off is he output listing on the chargers. Bottom line is the iPads need a lot more juice and maybe so do our Infuses.
Hope this helps/makes sense!
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Click to collapse
It's not just about the charger's amperage limit (and yes, amps is correct, you got it right.), but telling the phone that there is a high-current charger connected.
The standard way of doing this (which our phones follow) is to short D+ and D- together.
The Apple way of doing things is to use resistors from ground and +5v to set D+ and D- to specific voltages - 2.0 and 2.8 volts to be specific. Our phones usually detect this as a USB host and limit charge current to something like 475 mA. (I forget the exact value.)
Galaxy Tabs do it yet another way - tie D+ and D- together and use resistors to make them both around 1.2 volts. (Edit: Just tried my Tab 10.1 wall charger. Our phone detects this as an AC charger.)
Even with a high-current charger, our phones limit battery current internally to 600 mA on AC. Unfortunately, CPU/screen usage is counted against this limit, reducing actual current into the battery. The charger chip in our phones allows up to 800 mA. I've got a kernel that I use myself that does this but I'm a bit paranoid about it stressing the battery which is why I haven't publically released it.
Good news and bad news from the Gingerbread kernel: The bad news is I don't see anything obvious that would fix the flaw of CPU/screen current counting against the charge current limit. The good news is that implementing a safer way to crank the charger current is a LOT easier. It would charge at 800 until the battery hit a certain voltage (currently I'm thinking 4.05 volts), then 700 mA up to 4.1 volts, then 600 up to charge termination. I might make those 4.0/4.05 to be safe. Doing this in the Froyo kernels would have been painful, the Gingerbread kernel's code is much cleaner and this should be a lot easier to add.
@entropy512
So are you saying the eBay Galaxy P1000 Tab charging adapter I pointed to a couple messages back should work on the Infuse without having to modify the charger when set in CHARGE mode?
MisterEdF said:
@entropy512
So are you saying the eBay Galaxy P1000 Tab charging adapter I pointed to a couple messages back should work on the Infuse without having to modify the charger when set in CHARGE mode?
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Based on everything I've heard that says the P1000 charging adapter works on the P7510 (Tab 10.1 wifi), yes, since our phones detect Tab 10.1 chargers as full-blown chargers.
Entropy512 said:
If you use the car dock, any high-current charger (like iPad chargers) will work with the Infuse.
<SNIP>
Also, if the CPU is running and the screen is on, CPU and screen usage count against the phone's charge current limit, so will significantly reduce charge rate. (Samsung noobed that one...)
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Click to collapse
I was impatient and picked up the (excellent!) Samsung car dock and can reconfirm (just for another datapoint - Entropy's comments are gold here!) ...
With Waze or Google Maps/Navigation running, background music streaming (Pandora etc) OR a phone call underway (50/50) and a relatively high brightness setting the whole time (65% this morning - it was SUNNY!) my setup *LOST* charge on my 50+ mile drive (from 78% to 73% or so). All sound over Bluetooth the whole way. WiFi off, GPS (duh) on.
My Setup: Cheap Woot!ed Belkin 9V-USB 1A adapter with an Amazon-sourced Samsung original data/charge cable and the Samsung car dock.
Workable - at this rate it would lose ALL charge AFTER my rather substantial gas (diesel!) tank is empty.
BUT the new kernel or a charging fix would be great because then I don't have to remember to enter the car with a fully charged phone, or conversely, worry that I may leave, and thn run out, since charge was depleted en route!

another battery tip.

not sure if this is just a coincidence, but I did something by accident that has has improved my battery life. After trying many tips and apps like Battery Dr+ and with modest results. I tried charging with the HP touchpad charger that I recently got. It puts out higher voltage than the standard USB AC adapters. To my surprise , my battery charges super quick and holds a charge even better. Again, it could just be nothing, but my Triumph is experiencing extra battery life as well from the touchpads charger. Just thought I'd throw it out to see if anyone has any thoughts on it.
We should ask the mythbusters lol
Sent from my Droid Charge 4G running Gummy Charged 2.0
USB is 5V, so I'd like to know how it is putting out more than that without damaging anything. Also, as I've stated numerous times (does anyone ever read around here?), the amperage output listed on the charger will have almost no effect on how fast the phone charges. The only time it will affect it is if the output amperage is less than what the phone will accept and the charger will limit output, but I doubt any charger with a power output below what the phone will take would be complex enough to do that.
Your phone will detect if you are getting power from a USB port or the stock charger. It will accept higher current with the stock charger. If you are charging from other charger, it will charge slow. To fix that, buy a new and cut open your USB cable. Short the 2 data cable.
orateam said:
not sure if this is just a coincidence, but I did something by accident that has has improved my battery life. After trying many tips and apps like Battery Dr+ and with modest results. I tried charging with the HP touchpad charger that I recently got. It puts out higher voltage than the standard USB AC adapters. To my surprise , my battery charges super quick and holds a charge even better. Again, it could just be nothing, but my Triumph is experiencing extra battery life as well from the touchpads charger. Just thought I'd throw it out to see if anyone has any thoughts on it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The stock charger is rated at 5.0V/1.0A.
What is the HP Touchpad charger rated at?
I too have an HP touchpad and have noticed quicker charge times. Not sure about battery life though since it varies on my use. I cant use my samsung charger to charge the Touchpad, it says its not powerful enough.
Ted A said:
The stock charger is rated at 5.0V/1.0A.
What is the HP Touchpad charger rated at?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
from what i read, the HP charger is 5.3/2.0 Amps.
Not really sure why this would make a difference, since usb voltage is standardized and the kernel controls how much amperage goes to the phone. I once thought my Gtab charger did this, but imnuts pointed all the above facts to me.
Sent from my Droid Charge running GummyCharged 2.0

Battery charging, 500mah (slow) or 1000mah (fast) any difference in performance?

I've noticed that charging with 500mah charger, charges the battery MUCH slower than a 1000mah (1amp) charger, which charges really fast. I'll need to time it, but I'm thinking the 1000mah charger charges the stock battery in less than 2 hours, where as the 500mah charger takes many hours, I usually let it charge overnight.
My question is, is there any performance gain to slow charging vs fast charging? ie: slow charging giving a deeper charge, vs fast charging?
any opinions?
i use a 2amp charger i had already that fully charges the O3D in around half an hour/45 mins. get the same runtime whether i use that or the stock charger.
hefonthefjords said:
i use a 2amp charger i had already that fully charges the O3D in around half an hour/45 mins. get the same runtime whether i use that or the stock charger.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any chance of a link to this charger, I'd really like that sort of charging speed.
Pete
My guess would be anything that would charge an iPad... those require like 2.1amp, so that would be a 2amp usb charger.... I've seen 2.1amp home chargers, car chargers, etc... all because of the ipad I'm guessing.
Its not that simple. Any device that uses USB for charging can only pull 500ma, that's a universal agreement. To get around this each manufacturer uses a method of "informing" their device that it is connected to a charger that can supply more current (HTC shorts the data leads in the supplied charger I don't know what LG does). I have a 1amp car charger but it still only gives 500ma but the genuine LG charger gives an amp because the phone "knows" it can supply more.
I'm going to stick a test meter into my LG chargers over the holidays to see how the data leads are connected.
Pete
Sent from my LG-P920 using xda premium
The charger i have is a noname brand. I bought it from walmart for 6 quid. It also came with a 2amp car charger and a micro usb cable.
Micro usb cables are not standardised like that. Ive never heard of such a thing at all. As far as i know most phones will "fast charge" if they dont detect a data connection and dump as much current as they can into the battery so you can pretty much present them with whatever current you like and the charge time will just get faster. There is probably a hardware limit to that somewhere in the charge circuit but i dont know what the limit is. 2amps is the highest power usb charger ive seen but its not exactly aomething i regularly keep an eye out for.
Sent from my LG-P920 using xda premium
Slow charging is always better as this will allow the optimal number of battery cycles before the battery's capacity will start to degrade.
So if you only ever slow charge then your battery will have a longer life cycle.

.7 Amp vs 1.0 Amp Charger

So the One X comes with a 1.0 Amp charger. The charger would not fit(too long) in the spot where I have been using my Samsung charger.
I compared the two and saw the only difference is the .7 A to 1.0 A. looked up if it was ok to use. Some even reported longer battery life with the slower charger. Makes some sense just lasts longer.
Maybe I am crazy but it seems like I get better battery life from the .7 charger.
I have went back and forth a few times....But of course not enough days to really tell.
thoughts?
Definitely overthinking it. It will just charge slower.
eallan said:
Definitely overthinking it. It will just charge slower.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, what he said.
To think of it another way, you can charge your phone via a USB connection to your computer, but it's much slower. This is because USB only provides 0.5 (or maybe it's 0.2?) Amps.
However, going with an adapter that's HIGHER than 1.0A could cause damage.
In the long run, slower charges will likely make your battery last more cycles. But on a per-cycle basis, it should not give better battery life.
If you run your battery down, the smaller charger (and definitely the case for PC USB because they max out at 500ma) may not be able to charge at all. In normal cases, it is fine.
Higher than 1a won't damage anything. .7 might not actually charge the battery 100% depending on if the phone thinks it is usb(500ma charging mode) or ac charger(wont charge properly).
Sent from my Desire HD using XDA
c5satellite2 said:
Higher than 1a won't damage anything. .7 might not actually charge the battery 100% depending on if the phone thinks it is usb(500ma charging mode) or ac charger(wont charge properly).
Sent from my Desire HD using XDA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This. The voltage is what really matters. The phone won't draw more than it can to charge. If it draws 1A while charging and you put it on a 2A charger, it will pull 1A. But if the voltages don't match up and there isn't a protection circuit for that type of problem, you could fry the electronics with a higher amperage.
100% on the voltage! That is the important one. .7a shouldnt be recognized as a real ac charger resulting in the phone thinking it is USB 500ma charging mode which is the same as pc, slow. If the device thinks the .7a charger is ac charging mode, the battery probably will never charge to 100%. In fact if you were at 100%, and the phone was in ac charging mode with a .7a charger, it would drain your battery! More than 1a, the phone will only draw what it is capable of. Some aftermarket chargers will still charge in USB 500ma mode because the phone won't recognize them as ac charging 1a mode. I had an old HTC charger once that did funny things to my inspire, it would open navigation every time it was plugged in(thought it was a car dock I guess). Use real OEM chargers if possible. They will charge the fastest, and you won't have issues. The real HTC chargers at 1a are much faster than the aftermarket chargers I have tried. I have a good Kensington 1a car and wall charger, and the HTC blows them away as far as speed!
Sent from my Desire HD using XDA
c5satellite2 said:
100% on the voltage! That is the important one. .7a shouldnt be recognized as a real ac charger resulting in the phone thinking it is USB 500ma charging mode which is the same as pc, slow. If the device thinks the .7a charger is ac charging mode, the battery probably will never charge to 100%.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually, AC charging mode or PC USB mode is not determined by amprage or volts (all use 5v). It is determined by how the data pins are terminated. Most non-Apple chargers terminate data pins the same way so they will be recognized as AC charger. Apple chargers are the ones that may not be recognized by the phone as AC chargers because Apple terminates data PINs different than everyone else. Regardless of the charging mode, they all can charge to 100% if they can initiate the charge.
LiIon battery charging circuitary is much more complicated than your normal AA chargers. It is regulated internally so that slightly variations of input voltage won't affect the charging. It has to internally control the charge process precisely so that it can terminate the process at the exact moment (overcharging results in explusion).
Input power supply being 0.7A or 1A has no bearing on the level to which the battery is filled. Even input voltage has no bearing! The only impact to the system will be the rate at which you can charge.
Not true. Some chargers make the device think it is a real ac charger, but do not provide enough to charge to 100%. And yes it has to do with pinout. Some ac chargers aren't recognized properly and results in USB charge mode even if they have more than 500ma available. Even if your pc provides more than the USB standard of 500ma, it will only draw 500ma and charge slowly.
Don't mess with the voltage, it WILL damage your device! The previous post should be ignored, and deleted.
Sent from my Desire HD using XDA
I use my touchpad charger and its 5.3v instead of 5v and its definitely charging my phone faster than the HTC stock charger. No affect on battery life though.
Sent from my HTC One X using XDA
5.3v or 5v is ok because there is a little leeway, and I'm sure the 5.3 isn't exactly 5.3 anyway. If it was, the extra .3v is probably within range, and is not blowing things up, just stressing them a little more, making some heat, and wearing them out slightly quicker.
Try a 12v charger, see what happens. LOL.
Seriously the 5.3v might actually be closer to 5v than a charger labeled 5v and therefore could result in better charging. Remember, input voltage varies as well. Your electricity could go under 100v or as high as 120v. Our electric grid is not very consistent. Supply is constantly being adjusted to meet demand, resulting in widely varying voltages. I have seen it dip into the low 90v range on hot summer afternoons, and rarely in the 115v-120v range where it should be. The 5.0 volt charger would result in the best performance if it was actually putting out a TRUE 5v. A high quality charger, with high quality, consistent, 115v input power that is properly rated is ideal. In reality it doesn't exist.
5.3v close enough, might actually be better. One way to tell, put the voltmeter on it!
If you have access to volt/multimeter, could you post your ac voltage at the outlet and the dc voltage coming out of the 5.3v charger. Could be interesting. How many amps is the charger also? Might have to get one.
Sent from my Desire HD using XDA
Dont have that but this is the link to it
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0055QYJJM
I'll provide the exact specs when I get home.
Sent from my HTC One X using XDA
Can you clarify what you mean by this?
c5satellite2 said:
Not true. Some chargers make the device think it is a real ac charger, but do not provide enough to charge to 100%.
Sent from my Desire HD using XDA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Either an input power provides power or it doesn't. The only reason it would "stop" is if the charger in the phone runs out of headroom and I have yet to see this with any AC/DC or USB supply.
The whole issue of whether or not the phone identifies the power supply is an entirely separate discussion. But once it does identify and begin charging it will do so until completion.
---------- Post added at 12:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:05 PM ----------
c5satellite2 said:
The 5.0 volt charger would result in the best performance if it was actually putting out a TRUE 5v.
Sent from my Desire HD using XDA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is not true. Take two AC/DC adapters...
A) [email protected] = 4.24W
B) [email protected] =4.00W
The HTC One X has an internal switching charger with dynamic input power limiting. So it will actually be able to draw MORE current from Adapter A than Adapter B. Also, because the charger in the One X is a switching charger there will be negligible extra heat generated and no excessive wear and tear.
how did you know?
racerex said:
Can you clarify what you mean by this?
Either an input power provides power or it doesn't. The only reason it would "stop" is if the charger in the phone runs out of headroom and I have yet to see this with any AC/DC or USB supply.
The whole issue of whether or not the phone identifies the power supply is an entirely separate discussion. But once it does identify and begin charging it will do so until completion.
---------- Post added at 12:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:05 PM ----------
This is not true. Take two AC/DC adapters...
A) [email protected] = 4.24W
B) [email protected] =4.00W
The HTC One X has an internal switching charger with dynamic input power limiting. So it will actually be able to draw MORE current from Adapter A than Adapter B. Also, because the charger in the One X is a switching charger there will be negligible extra heat generated and no excessive wear and tear.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Htc has input power limiting? Internal switching charger? Where did you get this information?
The plugpack will be voltage regulated(to protect from overvoltage with under designed load) not ampage regulated.
The battery charges via voltage float, the higher the voltage the quicker the charge, but the voltage is regulated anyways so there is no fast and slow charge. It is charging or it's not. The charge circuit steps up and down the voltage to give fast/slow charge not the plugpack in mobile phones.
1.0a versus 0.7a just means the rated output is lower. It does not change the load. All that happens is the 0.7a will be running over its rated output which results in running hotter and potential running undervoltage.
Running 0.7a is not good if the battery charge circuit will draw 1.0a by design. Your plugpack just becomes a firerisk.
You should always match the designed specifications, eg 12v 1.0a.
The device expects a 12v(or close) input and should be able to draw 1.0a without issue.
If you over or under volt the charge circuit it could blow up, if you over draw the supply it might melt.
is it ok to charge 0.7A battery with 1.0A charger
omer101 said:
is it ok to charge 0.7A battery with 1.0A charger
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Did you not read the thread?
Sent from my Evita

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