Charging the Infuse in the car - Samsung Infuse 4G

Does anyone have issues charging the infuse using the car charger? It seems like it takes forever
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reissy said:
Does anyone have issues charging the infuse using the car charger? It seems like it takes forever
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using XDA App
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Yes it will be buddy theres no yet i.found that leaving it alone and not using it is only way.to.enhance performance
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using XDA Premium App

reissy said:
Does anyone have issues charging the infuse using the car charger? It seems like it takes forever
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using XDA App
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Which car charger? The AT&T one?
The AT&T one sucks - very low current limit, and it's detected as a USB charger by the Infuse and not as full-current charger.
If you use the car dock, any high-current charger (like iPad chargers) will work with the Infuse.
If you don't use the car dock, if you use an iPad/iPhone charger, you have to open up the charger and short the D+ and D- pins of the USB connector of the charger with a solder blob, or use a "charging adapter" cable. (Apparently AT&T sells such a cable - the negative reviews for not working for data transfer mean it'll work great for charging from iPhone/iPad USB chargers.) I use the 1A port of a Scosche reVIVE II with the D+ and D- pins solder-blobbed together.
Also, if the CPU is running and the screen is on, CPU and screen usage count against the phone's charge current limit, so will significantly reduce charge rate. (Samsung noobed that one...)

I found that turning off the data makes it charge faster!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using XDA App

debra said:
I found that turning off the data makes it charge faster!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using XDA App
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Samsung noobed it up in this phone's charging design - CPU/screen, and maybe even radio current usage count against the phone's charge current limit. This means that instead of 600 mA going only to the battery, it's 600 mA going to battery and all sorts of stuff - so the battery gets far less. This is why battery can actually drain while running navigation.
However the AT&T charger itself imposes a lower current limit than this, so even if Samsung hadn't noobed it, you'd still get a slow charge.

Entropy512 said:
Samsung noobed it up in this phone's charging design - CPU/screen, and maybe even radio current usage count against the phone's charge current limit. This means that instead of 600 mA going only to the battery, it's 600 mA going to battery and all sorts of stuff - so the battery gets far less. This is why battery can actually drain while running navigation.
However the AT&T charger itself imposes a lower current limit than this, so even if Samsung hadn't noobed it, you'd still get a slow charge.
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Do you think it would charge faster under GingerBread? I cannot have a phone like this if it takes forever and a day to charge. That just sucks.

reissy said:
Do you think it would charge faster under GingerBread? I cannot have a phone like this if it takes forever and a day to charge. That just sucks.
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I won't know until I've had a chance to look at the source drop.
Ideally:
They've fixed it so CPU/screen/etc usage doesn't count against charge current.
Workaround if they haven't:
It's possible to bump charge current up to 800 mA (stock is 600 mA). While this initially seems like only a 25% boost to charging, the fact that CPU/screen/etc is using part of the charge current limit means actual battery current will be up significantly more than 25%.

Entropy512 said:
I won't know until I've had a chance to look at the source drop.
Ideally:
They've fixed it so CPU/screen/etc usage doesn't count against charge current.
Workaround if they haven't:
It's possible to bump charge current up to 800 mA (stock is 600 mA). While this initially seems like only a 25% boost to charging, the fact that CPU/screen/etc is using part of the charge current limit means actual battery current will be up significantly more than 25%.
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Interesting. I wonder if a custom kernel could fix this issue. Is that possible?

Entropy512 said:
Which car charger? The AT&T one?
The AT&T one sucks - very low current limit, and it's detected as a USB charger by the Infuse and not as full-current charger.
If you use the car dock, any high-current charger (like iPad chargers) will work with the Infuse.
If you don't use the car dock, if you use an iPad/iPhone charger, you have to open up the charger and short the D+ and D- pins of the USB connector of the charger with a solder blob, or use a "charging adapter" cable. (Apparently AT&T sells such a cable - the negative reviews for not working for data transfer mean it'll work great for charging from iPhone/iPad USB chargers.) I use the 1A port of a Scosche reVIVE II with the D+ and D- pins solder-blobbed together.
Also, if the CPU is running and the screen is on, CPU and screen usage count against the phone's charge current limit, so will significantly reduce charge rate. (Samsung noobed that one...)
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Would one of these work? I use it on my Galaxy Tab 10.1. It has a data/charge switch.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330565218553&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

reissy said:
Interesting. I wonder if a custom kernel could fix this issue. Is that possible?
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It is entirely possible to crank the charge current up to 800 mA - I've done it and have been testing it on my phone. I have some additional stuff I want to do before general public release which is hard because the charge control stuff is major spaghetti code in the Froyo kernel. I'm hoping the GB kernel source is a bit cleaner.
I am not sure if it is possible to fix the fact that CPU/screen/etc usage is counted against the battery charge current limit. This may be simply bad hardware design. There's a slight possibility that it may just be that a register in the MAX8998 is being set improperly, such as the ESAFEOUT bits. When I get home and take a look at the GB kernel I'll know for sure. The problem is that the MAX8998 datasheet is proprietary and so the only documentation for this chip is the kernel source itself - which isn't particularly good for a number of aspects of the chip.
MisterEdF said:
Would one of these work? I use it on my Galaxy Tab 10.1. It has a data/charge switch.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330565218553&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
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I'll test - I've got a charger modded for charging my Tab 10.1, but I haven't tested it with the Infuse. I know solder-blobbing D+ and D- of an iPad charger works, but not what happens if you mangle the resistors in such a way that Tab 10.1s charge.

I have a charger from Griffin that works with my iPad that is a mini cig lighter adapter plug with a USB plug in it. It comes with a 30 pin cable for iDevices, but if I plug the micro USB cable that came with my Infuse it works great and charges relatively fast... I haven't done any serious testing, but from what I can tell it's much faster than if it were charging off my laptop's USB, but not as fast as being plugged into the wall.
What I think makes the difference is the fact that the charger is iPad capable, which means it's rated to output more power than the basic iPhone/pod versions. The iPad requires something like 2.1 amps compared to the .5 amps the normal usb chargers put out. This is why most laptops older than about 3 years can't charge the iPad via usb.
Now, I know my reference to "amps" I will be corrected or clarified. I'm no electrical engineer, lol... but what I'm going off is he output listing on the chargers. Bottom line is the iPads need a lot more juice and maybe so do our Infuses.
Hope this helps/makes sense!

tazm0n said:
I have a charger from Griffin that works with my iPad that is a mini cig lighter adapter plug with a USB plug in it. It comes with a 30 pin cable for iDevices, but if I plug the micro USB cable that came with my Infuse it works great and charges relatively fast... I haven't done any serious testing, but from what I can tell it's much faster than if it were charging off my laptop's USB, but not as fast as being plugged into the wall.
What I think makes the difference is the fact that the charger is iPad capable, which means it's rated to output more power than the basic iPhone/pod versions. The iPad requires something like 2.1 amps compared to the .5 amps the normal usb chargers put out. This is why most laptops older than about 3 years can't charge the iPad via usb.
Now, I know my reference to "amps" I will be corrected or clarified. I'm no electrical engineer, lol... but what I'm going off is he output listing on the chargers. Bottom line is the iPads need a lot more juice and maybe so do our Infuses.
Hope this helps/makes sense!
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It's not just about the charger's amperage limit (and yes, amps is correct, you got it right.), but telling the phone that there is a high-current charger connected.
The standard way of doing this (which our phones follow) is to short D+ and D- together.
The Apple way of doing things is to use resistors from ground and +5v to set D+ and D- to specific voltages - 2.0 and 2.8 volts to be specific. Our phones usually detect this as a USB host and limit charge current to something like 475 mA. (I forget the exact value.)
Galaxy Tabs do it yet another way - tie D+ and D- together and use resistors to make them both around 1.2 volts. (Edit: Just tried my Tab 10.1 wall charger. Our phone detects this as an AC charger.)
Even with a high-current charger, our phones limit battery current internally to 600 mA on AC. Unfortunately, CPU/screen usage is counted against this limit, reducing actual current into the battery. The charger chip in our phones allows up to 800 mA. I've got a kernel that I use myself that does this but I'm a bit paranoid about it stressing the battery which is why I haven't publically released it.
Good news and bad news from the Gingerbread kernel: The bad news is I don't see anything obvious that would fix the flaw of CPU/screen current counting against the charge current limit. The good news is that implementing a safer way to crank the charger current is a LOT easier. It would charge at 800 until the battery hit a certain voltage (currently I'm thinking 4.05 volts), then 700 mA up to 4.1 volts, then 600 up to charge termination. I might make those 4.0/4.05 to be safe. Doing this in the Froyo kernels would have been painful, the Gingerbread kernel's code is much cleaner and this should be a lot easier to add.

@entropy512
So are you saying the eBay Galaxy P1000 Tab charging adapter I pointed to a couple messages back should work on the Infuse without having to modify the charger when set in CHARGE mode?

MisterEdF said:
@entropy512
So are you saying the eBay Galaxy P1000 Tab charging adapter I pointed to a couple messages back should work on the Infuse without having to modify the charger when set in CHARGE mode?
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Based on everything I've heard that says the P1000 charging adapter works on the P7510 (Tab 10.1 wifi), yes, since our phones detect Tab 10.1 chargers as full-blown chargers.

Entropy512 said:
If you use the car dock, any high-current charger (like iPad chargers) will work with the Infuse.
<SNIP>
Also, if the CPU is running and the screen is on, CPU and screen usage count against the phone's charge current limit, so will significantly reduce charge rate. (Samsung noobed that one...)
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I was impatient and picked up the (excellent!) Samsung car dock and can reconfirm (just for another datapoint - Entropy's comments are gold here!) ...
With Waze or Google Maps/Navigation running, background music streaming (Pandora etc) OR a phone call underway (50/50) and a relatively high brightness setting the whole time (65% this morning - it was SUNNY!) my setup *LOST* charge on my 50+ mile drive (from 78% to 73% or so). All sound over Bluetooth the whole way. WiFi off, GPS (duh) on.
My Setup: Cheap Woot!ed Belkin 9V-USB 1A adapter with an Amazon-sourced Samsung original data/charge cable and the Samsung car dock.
Workable - at this rate it would lose ALL charge AFTER my rather substantial gas (diesel!) tank is empty.
BUT the new kernel or a charging fix would be great because then I don't have to remember to enter the car with a fully charged phone, or conversely, worry that I may leave, and thn run out, since charge was depleted en route!

Related

[Q] got a generic charger....it says-5v 500mah,original is 5v 1a(amper)is this ok?

it says- output :5v 500mah
the original says-output:5v 1a(amper i guess)
will this screw up the battery?
chances are no, considering it is half what htc recommends you charge it with, either it will charge it very slowly (half the current of the original) or the voltage wont provide enough to kick the phone into charging mode and nothing will happen (i.e. the charger "wont work")
Thanks for the help
It'll work, but as panyan said, it'll recharge much more inefficiently than with a 1 amp charger.
Actually... It will charge the phone exactly as charging via USB, as USB is limited to 0.5A.
Yep, it will charge your phone just fine @ USB charging speed, I have a similar charger.
And some of you forgot to mention that the phone will struggle when for example you will play games or use gps. Charge will be insufficient and instead charging it will slowly discharge while using it.
Sent from my Desire HD uing XDA App
Well yes and no, in normal usage it will charge phone, but when you use your phone the way that you would drain the batty in two hours, then it will discharge.
Hey... Yeah if the charger is a car charger then it may not charge fast enough if using GPS software which can drain the battery fast. 1Amp reccomended for faster charging... other than that should charge fine but just slow like USB charging (which has a max of 500mA).
One question guys... I bought a car charger from ebay listed as for HTC phones. It looks like a cheap knock off product with a glowing blue HTC logo when used in the car. The device is rated at 2Amps. Now from what little I know about electronics I've been told that AC/DC Plug packs with more Amps are ok and the device just only uses what it needs. I'm not however familiar whith battery charing when you have a higher rated Amps charger... Would the battery on the phone just be greedy and "ask" for the full 2Amps? Would this then put strain or be dangerous by charging the phone too quickly?
Secondly while we are on the topic of electronics... I'm trying out a super cheap ebay battery supposedly rated at 1600mAH (I know these rating are usually fake). I've noticed the HTC battery is around 4.17V when fully charged. This battery charged up to 4.2V fully charged... Is that dangerous for the device?
2 amp is better, correct me if i am wrong. So the output is 5V and 2A, is that mean the power is 10W every hour ?
2 A charging current (if the phone takes in that much) will damage the battery in a long term use.
It is incredibly unlikely that the phone will discharge the battery faster than it charges unless you're doing something very wrong, e.g. Running a console emulator while downloading a large file over HSDPA with WiFi enabled (but not connected) and using GPS navigation with screen brightness at maximum!
Screen and background services take approx 150mAh, and I doubt radio will take much more than that combined. That puts drain 200mAh less than USB charging, 700mAh less than direct charging.
FYI: There's a spec for USB charging of mobile phones from supported USB ports which can pull up to 1500mA.
DeathJester said:
It is incredibly unlikely that the phone will discharge the battery faster than it charges unless you're doing something very wrong, e.g. Running a console emulator while downloading a large file over HSDPA with WiFi enabled (but not connected) and using GPS navigation with screen brightness at maximum!
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Hmm... not sure for Desire HD I haven't tested GPS with SatNav software using current widget... I do know that I'm pulling well over 200mA just with basic use at home with Wi-Fi on and GPS & Bluetooth off and I kill all backround apps. I do know that I've been in the car and seen TomTom app on my friend's jailbroken iPhone 3G (or 3Gs) and with the GPS on and not doing anything intensive... we were actually travelling down a long straight highway, the phone was chewing more battery than the car charger could charge, so he switched off GPS.
Ah also guys no need to worry about the 2Amp charger... It sh*t itself on the 3rd car use and no longer works at all. Junk! I also noticed on the 2nd car trip that opening Android SpareParts the charge is displayed as USB Charging not AC Charging so yeah I believe that the car charger was only a standard USB (max 500mA) power output and not 1Amp let alone 2Amps. Annoying how false advertising or labelling is part and parcel with cheap Chinese products.I was meaning to test the charger's output with Current Widget (which is what I'll do for my next car charger) but the charger crapped out and was useless before I got a chance.
One thing I did notice from looking at a log using Current Widget while charging my phone on the A/C charger in standby, the charge tapers off the power output the more the battery is charged. To get an accurate idea of if the car charger is going to be outputting 1Amp I'd be sure the phone battery is down to 40% (or in the 40s) then with all other stuff switched off I'd run a log on Current Widget and turn the screen off for a few minutes. You should have a reading of around +700 to +800mA if the car charger is rated at 1Amp.
Be wary of the cheap Asian knock of car chargers with the coil spring cord and the HTC logo that lights up blue.... Not worth the 3 or 4 bucks they sell on ebay for.
There's a spec for USB charging of mobile phones from supported USB ports which can pull up to 1500mA.
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There's commonly those double USB cables for laptop hard drives so yeah I can see that if the USB ports are actually giving you the full rated maximum of 500mA you can get 1Amp output with this kind of cable but 1500mA?!? The only way I'd see possible for this is either you have a tripple USB cable connected to 3USB ports that are all outputting the full 500mA (and that's if a triple cable even exists or lets say you solder another one onto a double cable) or you have a USB AC/DC charger or some other USB port/hub you've rigged up which provides more than the USB standards of max 500mA per port. How else is this possible?!? Has the max power output of 500mA changed since USB 2.0 standards?
yeah there are usb 2.0 ports with more than 500mA power supply.
some companys give some extra juice to their (or often only one) usb ports.
for example: i've got an Dell Studio XPS 16 Notebook here. it has 3 usb ports, 2 with normal 500mA supply and one with 1A (for charging your phone, etc).
DN41

[Q] Faster Charger? Please advise

Hey,
I noticed that the droid charge has a bigger battery but it take a lifetime to charge.. is there a better charger I can get other than the one that came stock with the phone? Please let me know. I would really appreciate it.
The stock actually charges fast compared to USB...use a higher amperage charger with the stock usb cord (so it doesn't limit to 500ma). I use my Galaxy Tab charger...works great
Sent from my Droid Charge running GummyFroyo 1.9.1
kvswim said:
The stock actually charges fast compared to USB...use a higher amperage charger with the stock usb cord (so it doesn't limit to 500ma). I use my Galaxy Tab charger...works great
Sent from my Droid Charge running GummyFroyo 1.9.1
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Well I am using the USB in the pc and the battery has not moved once notch ... has to be the rom (gingerbread) or the combnation of usb cord and charger.
stepinmyworld said:
Well I am using the USB in the pc and the battery has not moved once notch ... has to be the rom (gingerbread) or the combnation of usb cord and charger.
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PC USB ports do not do a good job charging phones. they don't have a lot of power going to them. In addition, if you're using your phone while its charging from your computer you will not likely see it charging at all since all the power its getting is going to whatever it is your doing.
The same is true of car chargers. I had mine plugged in in the car for 45 minutes using the GPS. It charged 2%. The point is, the only real effective way to charge your phone is by using a regular outlet.
streetlightman said:
PC USB ports do not do a good job charging phones. they don't have a lot of power going to them. In addition, if you're using your phone while its charging from your computer you will not likely see it charging at all since all the power its getting is going to whatever it is your doing.
The same is true of car chargers. I had mine plugged in in the car for 45 minutes using the GPS. It charged 2%. The point is, the only real effective way to charge your phone is by using a regular outlet.
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Correct about the pc charging; it only runs at .5 amps (500 ma) while the stock charger has 1 amp. However, the car charger really depends on what kind you're using. I use a 2A and it charges fine.
Sent from my Droid Charge running GummyFroyo 1.9.1
streetlightman said:
PC USB ports do not do a good job charging phones. they don't have a lot of power going to them. In addition, if you're using your phone while its charging from your computer you will not likely see it charging at all since all the power its getting is going to whatever it is your doing.
The same is true of car chargers. I had mine plugged in in the car for 45 minutes using the GPS. It charged 2%. The point is, the only real effective way to charge your phone is by using a regular outlet.
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ok cool. so i could just look for a charger will higher voltage being delivered. I hope i get the right one that is compatible to the droid charge. Dont wanna burn the battery out etc
No, not voltage. Amperage. Big difference. Just get a charger with a USB port and a high amperage...I don't think you'll find a higher amp charger specifically compatible with the Charge.
Sent from my Droid Charge running GummyFroyo 1.9.1
kvswim said:
No, not voltage. Amperage. Big difference. Just get a charger with a USB port and a high amperage...I don't think you'll find a higher amp charger specifically compatible with the Charge.
Sent from my Droid Charge running GummyFroyo 1.9.1
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ok thanks!
You need a charger that won't be seen as a USB connection on the phone. If the phone thinks that it is plugged into your computer, it will charge at roughly half the rate of the wall charger. Wall charger will charge at ~700mA I believe, and the USB/Computer connection will charge at ~400mA. You can find the actual numbers in the power regulator driver in the kernel source though.
I have a motorola 950 amp car charger I got off amazon for $5. It works well but if the screen is full bright and I'm running navagation I have seen the battery level drop. To keep up you need a 1+amp charger. That being said the harder you charge the batteries the quicker they will wear out.
imnuts said:
You need a charger that won't be seen as a USB connection on the phone. If the phone thinks that it is plugged into your computer, it will charge at roughly half the rate of the wall charger. Wall charger will charge at ~700mA I believe, and the USB/Computer connection will charge at ~400mA. You can find the actual numbers in the power regulator driver in the kernel source though.
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This is pretty interesting. I'm not a phone dev or an electrician, but I assume these mA numbers are something that are 1) lower than what is actually safe and 2) might be able to be tweaked by a dev with nothing better to do. Not that you are even close to falling in that category, but I think many users would be quite interested in being able to get more charge out of shorter durations, albeit at the risk of burning out their phones.
Search for my responses here on charging cables... Sorry but I'm at 35,000 feet in an airliner and can't search very well to include a link. The "magic" to allow a charge current greater than 500ma is either in the stock AC charger or in a "charge only" cable. The data wires to the phone have to be shorted otherwise the phone will think that it is plugged into a computer and will start USB services and will limit the charging current. Cheapest to fabricate your own adapter!
Sent from my SCH-I510 using XDA Premium App
So it wont harm my battery at all to use my galaxy tab charger on my phone? What about in the long run will it degrade faster?
I think the phone has intelligent charging logic (like the newest iphones) so if you keep it cool it will take care of itself. YMMV however!
Sent from my SCH-I510 using XDA Premium App
Sent from my SCH-I510 using XDA Premium App
You could have a 10 amp charger, and if it is picked up as a computer/usb connection, the phone is going to pull the same amount of current as it would just plugging it in to your computer. The same goes for car and wall chargers that get picked up as a computer/usb connection. It doesn't matter what charge rate the charger supports, the phone is going to pull the same current as it is regulated to via the kernel. The only time it won't pull the full charge current it is setup to pull is if you have a charger that is rated for a slower charge rate than what the phone wants AND it won't allow charging above its stated capacity (any good charger should do this).
I have looked around (not much though) at how to make the charge rate faster before, but couldn't see how to do anything besides make the phone charge as fast over USB as it can via the wall charger. However, from what I have read, Li Ion batteries do better if they receive a slower charge to full and will not die as fast compared to being rapidly charged.
imnuts said:
You could have a 10 amp charger, and if it is picked up as a computer/usb connection, the phone is going to pull the same amount of current as it would just plugging it in to your computer. The same goes for car and wall chargers that get picked up as a computer/usb connection. It doesn't matter what charge rate the charger supports, the phone is going to pull the same current as it is regulated to via the kernel. The only time it won't pull the full charge current it is setup to pull is if you have a charger that is rated for a slower charge rate than what the phone wants AND it won't allow charging above its stated capacity (any good charger should do this).
I have looked around (not much though) at how to make the charge rate faster before, but couldn't see how to do anything besides make the phone charge as fast over USB as it can via the wall charger. However, from what I have read, Li Ion batteries do better if they receive a slower charge to full and will not die as fast compared to being rapidly charged.
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Click to collapse
Slow charging is true to some extent, but there is no need to charge our battery's under 1.5amp.
And shorting the two data pins on the USB doesn't work it looks for a specific resistance, I saw the ohm load somewhere, but now of course I can't find it lol..
When I get really bored tonight I will edit this and figure it out. But yeah our phones can easily pull 800ma or more with full screen brightness and maxed out processor. So that would result in no charging at all on some chargers. I use a 2a wall charger that came with my evo and it charges very very quickly. Never more than 1 hour to full charge unless I am gaming on it while it charges lol. This is using the cord that came with the phone of course so that it knows it isn't in a data enabled usb slot.
MasterRy88 said:
So it wont harm my battery at all to use my galaxy tab charger on my phone? What about in the long run will it degrade faster?
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In electronics, when given a voltage source (as opposed to a current source) the Voltage is set to a fixed value. That is what our wall USB outlets are. Voltage sources
Think of Voltage like a waterfall. The water is always dropping from the same height. The voltage is always set to the same value.
The mA rating (the current) is determined by how much juice the phone can pull. Just because a charger is capable of supplying more current (say 1 or 2 amps), it doesn't mean that the Droid is going to draw that much current. However, if the droid is capable of pulling more current, it will benefit by charging faster.
Does that help at all?
*edit* Dang it. Didn't scroll down enough to see that imnuts posted already. Oh well, screw it. I'm leaving my post. lol. People who don't know about Voltage and Amperage need to hear the waterfall example at some point in their lives.
lane32x said:
In electronics, when given a voltage source (as opposed to a current source) the Voltage is set to a fixed value. That is what our wall USB outlets are. Voltage sources
Think of Voltage like a waterfall. The water is always dropping from the same height. The voltage is always set to the same value.
The mA rating (the current) is determined by how much juice the phone can pull. Just because a charger is capable of supplying more current (say 1 or 2 amps), it doesn't mean that the Droid is going to draw that much current. However, if the droid is capable of pulling more current, it will benefit by charging faster.
Does that help at all?
*edit* Dang it. Didn't scroll down enough to see that imnuts posted already. Oh well, screw it. I'm leaving my post. lol. People who don't know about Voltage and Amperage need to hear the waterfall example at some point in their lives.
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I don't really understand this because voltage and amperage are different things...
Sent from my Droid Charge running GummyFroyo 1.9.1
skydeaner said:
When I get really bored tonight I will edit this and figure it out. But yeah our phones can easily pull 800ma or more with full screen brightness and maxed out processor. So that would result in no charging at all on some chargers. I use a 2a wall charger that came with my evo and it charges very very quickly. Never more than 1 hour to full charge unless I am gaming on it while it charges lol. This is using the cord that came with the phone of course so that it knows it isn't in a data enabled usb slot.
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Did you read anything I posted The phone is only going to pull a set charge rate, depending on what type of connection it sees. It doesn't care what power rating the connection has, it will pull as much power as it can, up to the limit defined in the power regulator of the kernel. You can use a 1A charger, or a 2A charger, doesn't matter, the phone is still only going to pull a set. The phone will pull 475mA via USB connection (your computer) or 800mA via an AC adapter (wall charger). Unless you figure out how to hack the battery driver to allow a faster charge, those are the two rates you get, regardless of how much power the wall charger can supply.
kvswim said:
I don't really understand this because voltage and amperage are different things...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A charger is going to provide a set voltage (5V I believe) and that is the only constant in the charging process for what is going into the phone. The amperage is going to be determined by the phone or the wall charger. The only time the wall charger will be the limiting part in charging is if its circuitry is setup to cut off charging over a certain level, and if it is rated for a lower charging rate, odds are, it probably won't cut it off and instead produce a fire hazard.
Something else people don't realize is that the charging rate isn't just bad for the battery if you charge to fast, pulling to much power in to charge the battery, especially while using the phone, creates a heat problem as well. While the phone will shut itself down before any major damage can occur, why would you even want to create a situation that could potentially damage the phone hardware?
imnuts said:
Did you read anything I posted The phone is only going to pull a set charge rate, depending on what type of connection it sees. It doesn't care what power rating the connection has, it will pull as much power as it can, up to the limit defined in the power regulator of the kernel. You can use a 1A charger, or a 2A charger, doesn't matter, the phone is still only going to pull a set. The phone will pull 475mA via USB connection (your computer) or 800mA via an AC adapter (wall charger). Unless you figure out how to hack the battery driver to allow a faster charge, those are the two rates you get, regardless of how much power the wall charger can supply.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
what about car chargers? i have one that I think is 2A and it seems to charge my phone a bit faster than my wall charger
blazing through on my VZ Droid Charge 4G

[Q] charging the G2X with iphone charger?

HI everyone, hope thats the right forum
I have in my possession an iphone 4 charger, and since i dont have a dedicated G2X charger i was wondering if it is possible to charge the LG phone with Iphone charger?
thanks!
Well I thought iPhones use same charger as ipods which has a lot wider plug than an android charger. But if that's changed and it fits than plug it in and find out.
Sent from my LG-P999 using xda premium
I don't see it working unless you have some sort of an adapter. The G2x uses a micro USB port, and the iPhone uses a proprietary port.
please see bellow what charger i have. just need to plud the USB cord in the charger, since it have USB input.
so, technically it should work, but will this affect the battery in the long run? i mean, maybe the voltage\current values are different.
If it is a USB adapter then it should conform to USB standards and would then work. I think most of the previous responses assumed you meant a charger with the iPhone tip.
Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk
The idea itself will not work, you can pick one up from Amazon or eBay for pretty cheap.
Sent from my LG-P999 using xda premium
Actually it's likely it won't work. Compare the amps on the G2x charger vs. the iPhone one (and just about any other generic USB charger). All the one's I have are different, lower, and don't work with the G2x. One of them, for some odd reason, makes the touchscreen not work at all when plugged in.
lilaliend said:
Actually it's likely it won't work. Compare the amps on the G2x charger vs. the iPhone one (and just about any other generic USB charger). All the one's I have are different, lower, and don't work with the G2x. One of them, for some odd reason, makes the touchscreen not work at all when plugged in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is not correct, iphone charger will work technically, however it will reduce your battery life over time due to iphone charger are 1amp while g2x charger is 0.7Amp. Amps must meet to properly charge at the pace selected by manufacturer and battery specs. Lower amp takes time to charge, higher amp will charge fast but will reduce life.
Sent via MIUI-G2X
Mine is rate for 1AMP.
Sent from my LG-P999 using xda premium
nycelitemaster said:
That is not correct, iphone charger will work technically, however it will reduce your battery life over time due to iphone charger are 1amp while g2x charger is 0.7Amp. Amps must meet to properly charge at the pace selected by manufacturer and battery specs. Lower amp takes time to charge, higher amp will charge fast but will reduce life.
Sent via MIUI-G2X
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How does it even fit? The ports are totally different. Perhaps an adapter?
Sent from my LG-P999 using xda premium
DON'T DO IT!!!! your phone will suddenly become just like everyone else's and you won't be able to do anything about it! your technology will become dumbed down, and you will becomea victim of conformity!
HEED MY WARNING!!!
Don't worry, using that iPhone charger/adapter won't turn your Android phone into an iPhone.
The iPhone charger/adapter is a 5 volt USB adapter, it will work. The battery will charge normally, there's a charge regulation circuit in the phone and protection circuitry in the battery which will ensure that the battery won't be screwed. I use a variety of USB power adapters which range in their current rating which is the maximum current the device is capable of supplying at the rated voltage (although the cheap adapters' output voltage decreases as the current output (load current) increases. The LG power adapter I have is rated at 4.8 Volts and 1 Ampere output. I use that, a USB port on my computer which is rated at 5 Volts and 1/2 Ampere (500 ma), and other 5V power adapters. I also use a variety of micro USB cables some of which are just for supplying power, not data, and they work too.
Core Memory said:
Don't worry, using that iPhone charger/adapter won't turn your Android phone into an iPhone.
The iPhone charger/adapter is a 5 volt USB adapter, it will work. The battery will charge normally, there's a charge regulation circuit in the phone and protection circuitry in the battery which will ensure that the battery won't be screwed. I use a variety of USB power adapters which range in their current rating which is the maximum current the device is capable of supplying at the rated voltage (although the cheap adapters' output voltage decreases as the current output (load current) increases. The LG power adapter I have is rated at 4.8 Volts and 1 Ampere output. I use that, a USB port on my computer which is rated at 5 Volts and 1/2 Ampere (500 ma), and other 5V power adapters. I also use a variety of micro USB cables some of which are just for supplying power, not data, and they work too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good info.
Thanks
Sent from my LG-P999 using xda premium
thanks for the informative reply Core Memory.
didnt think using iphone charger will turn my android into iphone
so, bottom line - it is safe to use that charger.
Thanks!!
un.droid said:
thanks for the informative reply Core Memory.
didnt think using iphone charger will turn my android into iphone
so, bottom line - it is safe to use that charger.
Thanks!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, it's totally safe. I've got a service manual for an LG phone which is substantially the same as the G2X and Optimus 2X which shows the battery charge circuitry. That circuitry regulates battery charging. Here's some more info regarding the battery:
90% = 4.05V +/- 0.05V
60% = 3.83V ditto
30% = 3.72V ditto
10% = 3.64V ditto
OFF = 3.42V
The battery voltage decreases according to the load current (milliamps) over a period of time. The higher the load current during a specific period of time, the quicker the battery voltage decreases; that's why it is important to have everything except the cell radio and the operating system off when the phone is in standby. There will be some background processes, etc., which are necessary too. Bluetooth, GPS, and WiFi quickly drain the battery. Automatic updating should be turned off always. If you're not expecting any calls, turn the phone off. Setup your phone to reroute received phone calls to your home or work phone, if the call is important they will leave a message, then pick up the messages at your convenience. Use a ROM and kernel which are known to have good battery life.
ive been useing the iphone dock to charge my g2x and it works fine lol no issue

Skyrocket can't function as GPS Navigator?

This weekend I went on a trip and decided to try out using my Skyrocket as a GPS navigator using Google Navigation. I had my phone mounted and plugged in the whole time for about a 2 hour trip. The screen was on the whole time usually at high brightness (it would dim every once in a while.) When I removed my phone from the mount I noticed the power was down to the low 60's, which struck me as slightly odd since it was plugged into the charger the whole time. The next day I tried to use it as a GPS system again, but even as it was plugged in, this time I literally saw the battery gauge draining. When I turned off navigation and the screen the phone would finally start charging.
Is this a common thing or is there an issue with my phone or possibly my charger? Does doing all those things really drain the battery faster than it can charge it? One last note is that I was not in an LTE area during this, or at least not the whole time (I only noticed it was LTE at one time during the trip.) When I saw my battery draining in front of me I definitely was not in an LTE area.
Might be your charger. I'm having no problems using it as my primary driving, hiking and general outdoor GPS unit. When on car charger, it's charging faster then it drains.
I believe my charger is an old Motorola car charger that came with my wife's old dumbphone. It's actually not even a Micro-USB charger, but rather a Mini-USB with an adapter.
This may be a dumb question, but the actual charging port shouldn't be the issue right? I'm assuming those are always the same standard.
Check the car charger amperage output. I have an old car charger to USB that only puts out 750mA and another thats puts out 1A. Anything less than 1A with the navigation running (which means the screen and GPS stay on, of course), and it'll still drain the battery (and even at 1A it may still drain).
I've been putting off getting a powerful enough car charger myself. You'll need one that puts out 1-2A I would think. Most of the common ones off the shelf are 1A or less, and I've heard that some chargers reported max output is not as good as reported.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727
jslanger said:
Check the car charger amperage output. I have an old car charger to USB that only puts out 750mA and another thats puts out 1A. Anything less than 1A with the navigation running (which means the screen and GPS stay on, of course), and it'll still drain the battery (and even at 1A it may still drain).
I've been putting off getting a powerful enough car charger myself. You'll need one that puts out 1-2A I would think. Most of the common ones off the shelf are 1A or less, and I've heard that some chargers reported max output is not as good as reported.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i second this...my phone won't even charge on some wall chargers, unless 700mAh or higher. let alone do any battery heavy functions like GPS. get something with at least 1a output
I'll try swapping the chargers. I have an overpriced AT&T one that I got for free that is collecting dust.
If the charger has 1A output then it should be OK
I'm having the same problem with my Skyrocket and cheapy charger that I bought at Fry's. Use the navigation with screen on and my battery is less than when I plugged it in.
Going to buy this combo 2A and 1A charger.
http://www.amazon.com/GTMax-2-Port-..._1_5?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1329796381&sr=1-5
Its the amount of mah your charger is putting out. Not the phone. The charger is not supplying enough power
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk
CZ Eddie said:
I'm having the same problem with my Skyrocket and cheapy charger that I bought at Fry's. Use the navigation with screen on and my battery is less than when I plugged it in.
Going to buy this combo 2A and 1A charger.
http://www.amazon.com/GTMax-2-Port-..._1_5?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1329796381&sr=1-5
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When I was looking for a more powerful option, I saw that one on Amazon as well. My only hesitation at buying it was why it was so much cheaper than all comparable options at local stores, or even online...I've heard that the cheapie chargers may not actually output what they say...though for $4 plus shipping, I guess it's not much of a gamble. Let us know how it performs!
P.S.-Pulled up the reviews...not too many positive ones (though 1 or 2 were good): http://www.amazon.com/GTMax-2-Port-...iewpoints=1&sortBy=bySubmissionDateDescending
Its actually more than just the charger output that is a problem. If the center two pins on the USB connection aren't shorted, the phone will treat it as a USB connection to a computer, not an AC connection from the wall, and only draw a max 500mah. I had bought a 1amp and 2 amp charger for my car and would get the same results as the 500. I started to think it was my car limiting my output!
But I then found an article detailing this problem that I've since lost the link to, but the method worked. Pop open the charger and solder the 2 middle connectors together and all is good.
I don't know why the charger manufacturers don't know this... Or maybe this phone is doing something new? Maybe someone makes a USB-> micro USB with the center pair shorted in cable?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk
Just Google "Solder USB Car Charger" and you'll find plenty of tutorials about how to do that. Personally I'd rather just buy one that out of the box works.
Tried out my AT&T charger (which can be found here) and it worked perfectly. Set up the GPS and everything and now it will charge even while doing all that stuff. Thanks for the help
I have the same issue with my SkyRocket. LTE makes no difference. If I'm using Google Navigation or Waze and the Screen is on my charger/phone can't keep up with the battery drain. If I turn the screen off and keep the GPS app running the battery either doesn't drain or doesn't drain as fast.
I've checked my car charger and it's one of those dual usb ones, with a 1 amp port and a 2.1 amp port. It has no indication of which port is which, so I don't know what port I'm using at any particular time. I've tried both and the effects are the same.
Regardless, when the phone is plugged in to that charger the phone reports that it's an AC charger. Supposedly that means I'm getting at least 1 amp, right? So why is 1 amp not enough?
I don't like the car charger you guys suggested because it has the curly cord. I'd rather use a car charger that doesn't come with a cable so I can plug in my own usb cable.
Any suggestions?

[Q] Wireless Charging + Daydream Bizarre Performance

This is my first experience with wireless charging so I'm probably missing the obvious here so please, anybody, point that out.
I'm newly using a wireless charger with my N5 & performance just doesn't make any sense to me. It's the Korean/Chinese knock-off of the N4 Orb which others on XDA have used successfully. On basic charging it does work but I can't make any sense of these numbers:
Charging I get roughly 10% per hour -- not great, but okay for bedside/overnight.
Charging with daydream on (Dashclock) on I get a loss of roughly 10% per hour! Yes, the phone keeps indicating it is charging in spite of this heavy drain.
But sometimes daydream just turns off & it returns to charging -- this seems to happen if I start off with the phone (mostly) charged. For the most part though, if I leave the phone on the charger overnight with daydream enabled I'll wake to a nearly empty battery.
As I said, these numbers make no sense to me at all. Part of the problem may be the power source for the orb - it's only 1A but even if it's underpowered I can't see the drop from +10% to -10% /hour.
Second part of my query -- does anyone know if it would be effective (and safe!) to feed 1.2A to the orb & maybe get faster charge. Or maybe that would be enough to keep up with the Daydream drain?
FWIW the the USB charger (1.2A) is very fast, I get better than 1% per minute -- unaffected by Daydream.
im using this and mine gets full charge within 1 and half hours
Sent from my Nexus 5 using xda app-developers app
10% per hour? Something's wrong. A wireless charger shouldn't take much longer than wired.
It's possible your adapter is a dud. Try using the 1.2a adapter, it'll be fine. If it still isn't faster, you might have a bad charger.
Also, if it came with a USB cable, don't use it. The wires are too small to carry a reasonable amount of current.
NotFromMountainView said:
This is my first experience with wireless charging so I'm probably missing the obvious here so please, anybody, point that out.
I'm newly using a wireless charger with my N5 & performance just doesn't make any sense to me. It's the Korean/Chinese knock-off of the N4 Orb which others on XDA have used successfully. On basic charging it does work but I can't make any sense of these numbers:
Charging I get roughly 10% per hour -- not great, but okay for bedside/overnight.
Charging with daydream on (Dashclock) on I get a loss of roughly 10% per hour! Yes, the phone keeps indicating it is charging in spite of this heavy drain.
But sometimes daydream just turns off & it returns to charging -- this seems to happen if I start off with the phone (mostly) charged. For the most part though, if I leave the phone on the charger overnight with daydream enabled I'll wake to a nearly empty battery.
As I said, these numbers make no sense to me at all. Part of the problem may be the power source for the orb - it's only 1A but even if it's underpowered I can't see the drop from +10% to -10% /hour.
Second part of my query -- does anyone know if it would be effective (and safe!) to feed 1.2A to the orb & maybe get faster charge. Or maybe that would be enough to keep up with the Daydream drain?
FWIW the the USB charger (1.2A) is very fast, I get better than 1% per minute -- unaffected by Daydream.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So I'm using DashClock also and when it doesn't crash, my phone will charge just fine. Seems like about 3 hours total with daydream on, and about 2 hours with it off just regular charging. Here's my charger: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DOW1RD0/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Seems like you have a defective charger but it is a really weird situation.
Thanks guys, the jump to 1.2A made a world of difference! It still seems strange, but I guess there's a minimum threshold for the phone to properly charge. (I am really guessing!) Plugging the OEM charger into my qi orb I finally get a positive charge with daydream -- not fast, but good enough to wake with a charged phone! Without daydream I just got about 36% in the past hour.
A quick scan of eBay and the only 1.2A USB supplies I can find are refurbished LG & cost as much as the full qi orb! (from US with crazy shipping costs on these - I'm in Canada) But there are lots of 1.5A blocks, cheap (and free shipping from China). So... do you think it would be safe to try the 1.5A? According to Play the Google qi comes with a 1.8A supply but I have no idea how much the pad modulates the power or if that is all in the phone itself. It would be nice to have fast wireless charging, but with the dramatic jump with just the .2A increase I may be looking at something too powerful.
My concerns are (in order) 1. Don't want to fry the phone!
2. Don't want to burn down my apartment!
3. Would rather not trash the orb. The orb was inexpensive so I'm willing to gamble on point # 3.
Advice / assurances / suggestions? Please.
Mr. Sprinkles said:
Also, if it came with a USB cable, don't use it. The wires are too small to carry a reasonable amount of current.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I assume you mean USB out from PC since OEM charger is USB and orb power supply is USB as well. Point taken on PC charging though.
NotFromMountainView said:
Thanks guys, the jump to 1.2A made a world of difference! It still seems strange, but I guess there's a minimum threshold for the phone to properly charge. (I am really guessing!) Plugging the OEM charger into my qi orb I finally get a positive charge with daydream -- not fast, but good enough to wake with a charged phone! Without daydream I just got about 36% in the past hour.
A quick scan of eBay and the only 1.2A USB supplies I can find are refurbished LG & cost as much as the full qi orb! (from US with crazy shipping costs on these - I'm in Canada) But there are lots of 1.5A blocks, cheap (and free shipping from China). So... do you think it would be safe to try the 1.5A? According to Play the Google qi comes with a 1.8A supply but I have no idea how much the pad modulates the power or if that is all in the phone itself. It would be nice to have fast wireless charging, but with the dramatic jump with just the .2A increase I may be looking at something too powerful.
My concerns are (in order) 1. Don't want to fry the phone!
2. Don't want to burn down my apartment!
3. Would rather not trash the orb. The orb was inexpensive so I'm willing to gamble on point # 3.
Advice / assurances / suggestions? Please.
I assume you mean USB out from PC since OEM charger is USB and orb power supply is USB as well. Point taken on PC charging though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The official orb charger comes with a 1.8a brick. You should be fine.
Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk 4
NotFromMountainView said:
Thanks guys, the jump to 1.2A made a world of difference! [...] you mean USB out from PC since OEM charger is USB and orb power supply is USB as well. Point taken on PC charging though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I mean if your orb uses a USB cable and came with one, don't use the cable it came with. They're often very cheap and add a lot of resistance which will increase charge time.
It wasn't the step up to 1.2A that made a world of difference, it's using a quality adapter that made the difference. Your 1A adapter must have been faulty or grossly overrated. Sounds like it was putting out less than 500mA.
As for a higher amperage power supply somehow damaging things? Not possible. The circuitry in the wireless charger is only going to use what it needs, you could hook it up to a 50A power supply and it'll still draw around 1A. The N5 is also input current limited to 1.2A, so using a crazy high amperage adapter won't have much benefit anyway.
Still, not a bad idea to get a 1.5A - 2A adapter to compensate for whatever current the wireless charger itself uses. This is probably why the official one includes a 1.8A adapter.
Mr. Sprinkles said:
10% per hour? Something's wrong. A wireless charger shouldn't take much longer than wired.
It's possible your adapter is a dud. Try using the 1.2a adapter, it'll be fine. If it still isn't faster, you might have a bad charger.
Also, if it came with a USB cable, don't use it. The wires are too small to carry a reasonable amount of current.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mr. Sprinkles said:
I mean if your orb uses a USB cable and came with one, don't use the cable it came with. They're often very cheap and add a lot of resistance which will increase charge time.
It wasn't the step up to 1.2A that made a world of difference, it's using a quality adapter that made the difference. Your 1A adapter must have been faulty or grossly overrated. Sounds like it was putting out less than 500mA.
As for a higher amperage power supply somehow damaging things? Not possible. The circuitry in the wireless charger is only going to use what it needs, you could hook it up to a 50A power supply and it'll still draw around 1A. The N5 is also input current limited to 1.2A, so using a crazy high amperage adapter won't have much benefit anyway.
Still, not a bad idea to get a 1.5A - 2A adapter to compensate for whatever current the wireless charger itself uses. This is probably why the official one includes a 1.8A adapter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
El Daddy & Mr. Sprinkles thanks, that's just the type of reassurance I needed!
just use the 2,1A amazon kindle charger with your orb... its cheap, safe and wont fry your phone
Gesendet von meinem Nexus 5 mit Tapatalk
Mr. Sprinkles said:
I mean if your orb uses a USB cable and came with one, don't use the cable it came with. They're often very cheap and add a lot of resistance which will increase charge time.
It wasn't the step up to 1.2A that made a world of difference, it's using a quality adapter that made the difference. Your 1A adapter must have been faulty or grossly overrated. Sounds like it was putting out less than 500mA.
As for a higher amperage power supply somehow damaging things? Not possible. The circuitry in the wireless charger is only going to use what it needs, you could hook it up to a 50A power supply and it'll still draw around 1A. The N5 is also input current limited to 1.2A, so using a crazy high amperage adapter won't have much benefit anyway.
Still, not a bad idea to get a 1.5A - 2A adapter to compensate for whatever current the wireless charger itself uses. This is probably why the official one includes a 1.8A adapter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So from what I heard wireless charging, like a pogo plug can charge at a higher rate than the micro USB port in some devices (I've heard pogo plug can go up to 2.5A where the micro USB in that device is limited to 1.8A). So I'm wondering as these qi chargers get better, will this also be true. Mine is a 1A but seems like it charges around .8A so it's maxed out. I guess this also raises the question as to how fast is good for a battery also.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

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