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[Q] USB host mode, specifically via Nebtop

So, I purchases a USB OTG cable in an attempt to try and expand the functionality of Webtop while using Nebtop. I've been unable to get any response from the phone when I plug in this cable. I've tried my wireless Logitech mouse and keyboard that worked off the bat with my TF101 using the Unifying remote they came with as well as an external TB drive.
Has anyone else had any experience with this? It seems logical that the phone supports host mode since the actual dock has 3 full sized USB ports.
All the information pertaining to this sort of thing I've come up with seems extremely phone specific but if there's a simple solution I'm missing thanks all the more.

ri4naire said:
So, I purchases a USB OTG cable in an attempt to try and expand the functionality of Webtop while using Nebtop. I've been unable to get any response from the phone when I plug in this cable. I've tried my wireless Logitech mouse and keyboard that worked off the bat with my TF101 using the Unifying remote they came with as well as an external TB drive.
Has anyone else had any experience with this? It seems logical that the phone supports host mode since the actual dock has 3 full sized USB ports.
All the information pertaining to this sort of thing I've come up with seems extremely phone specific but if there's a simple solution I'm missing thanks all the more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The problem actually lies in the usb port of the phone itself. The dock was designed for this purpose, and the dock app handles most that for you, the one thing that the dock is able to do that a straight USB cable can't do, is provide enough "bus" power to use a mouse or even a USB stick directly from the phone. If you want to use a Mouse you will need to get a dock. I got mine directly from wireless.att.com, and it was only $49.00 back in Nov. when I got it. It works VERY well with webtop.
P.S. Motorola is very famous for doing things like this to force you into a dock, or to lock out certain features that everyone really wants to use.

I made my own dock by using a powered usb hub I had sitting around (it was actually the one that came with Rock Band for my Xbox 360). I did have to modify it slightly so that the 1 pin was powered from the 5V (a simple shunt from the 5V inner pin of the power supply solder joint to the solder joint of the 1 pin worked fine--although it might be wise to insert an inline fuse since it also charges your phone while plugged in).
Otherwise, the only other thing needed is coming in the form of your otg adapter that should short the 5 pin (common) with your 4 pin (ID). I did this by cracking open an extra micro usb cable and soldering a wire between the two.
So, my setup was like this:
1. Modified usb cable to short the 4 & 5 pins to let the phone know to go into host
2. Use a female A-female A usb coupler to join the usb cable to the powered hub (I got mine here from Monoprice
3. Get 5V to the 1 pin in the usb hub to provide power to your phone and for whatever is plugged into the hub.
With this, I was easily able to run a usb mouse and a wireless keyboard that had a usb dongle. Paired with a micro hdmi cable to hdmi-dvi adapter, I am able to use my office monitor and the webtop linux. I honestly haven't really used it much yet (if I found it really useful, I probably would have just paid for the dock).
The obvious easy way is to just get the dock. However, I really like being able to do this on my own and since I had this stuff already laying around. Also, the cheap prices from monoprice (I actually made $4 off of the purchase from a PayPal bill-me-later promotion).
So, you should be able to get it to work if you get power to the bus on your usb (but again, it might be safe to pass an appropriate fast-acting fuse, ferrite core, or something to protect from surges). I haven't had issue yet, but I also don't use it often...yet .

It sounds like a bit of yes and a bit of no. The OTG cable I got is microUSB to female full USB, am I going to need to modify this cable as you've described by crossing the 4th and 5th pins?
I'm thinking about ordering this "7 Port USB Squid Hub" since it has the 5v power adapter, do you think it might work?
Just one more question and thanks for all the help but should I not see any response from the phone when I plug in the cable? I read through some of the reviews for cheap cables on Amazon and apparently sometimes they're just useless.

ri4naire said:
It sounds like a bit of yes and a bit of no. The OTG cable I got is microUSB to female full USB, am I going to need to modify this cable as you've described by crossing the 4th and 5th pins?
I'm thinking about ordering this "7 Port USB Squid Hub" since it has the 5v power adapter, do you think it might work?
Just one more question and thanks for all the help but should I not see any response from the phone when I plug in the cable? I read through some of the reviews for cheap cables on Amazon and apparently sometimes they're just useless.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The OTG cable have should work. The OTG cable, to my knowledge, should already have pins 4 & 5 shorted together. I'm not completely certain, but if it's designed as an OTG, it would probably already have that done. If you have an ohmmeter/multimeter, you could try to check (it's hard to isolate the small pins, but you can try). If it's already going to the USB female (type A), you will then be able to directly attach your hub when you get it (without the need of the coupler I had to get).
When I used mine, there was no notification that said "Hey, I'm in USB Host Mode!". However, if you successfully have a mouse attached, you'll see a mouse cursor arrow on your screen.
Have fun with it and if you can't get it to work, let me know and I'll try to explain with even more detail (perhaps with some pretty pictures) of what I did. I more or less went off of what I could glean from reading what others did.

It works great! Also, it is weird to see the mouse on this little a screen, it seems oversized.
I just plugged everything in and it worked off the bat. I'm using just two items from Amazon I got for under 12 bucks (plus, of course, the keyboard and mouse I already had for my computer). I don' think I can post links to the forums yet but the ASINs for the items if people want to do this on the super cheap are as follows:
B0043TBCDS 7 Port USB Squid Hub, a whopping $5.19
B005N55WHI Micro-B USB OTG Cable... $5.99
I chose these because of their Prime eligibility and also for their form factor so as not to cover the HDMI port, I bet it's not impossible to get these even cheaper.
While this isn't technically a replacement for the dock since I had to root the device and I have to press "Load" in Nebtop if I want to go to Webtop I'm extremely pleased with the results.
I also love that all the soft keys are available. The ones I've discovered are that right button on the mouse as well as Esc are Back, the Home key is Home, clicking the wheel as well as Ctrl, Cmd, Alt and a whole slew of others bring up the Menu, but all I can find is F5 for Search.
On another note, while the phone does charge when hooked up, a practical boon, the screen still times out despite having the "Stay awake" feature checked. This is annonying when the phone is on it's side accross the room and I have to squint to see the cursor and swipe it unlocked sideways as well as click back into Mirror Display.

[GUIDE]How to make otg cable with external power connector

HOW TO MAKE USB OTG CABLE WITH AN EXTERNAL USB POWER SUPPLY for those who cannot find such a cable in their country(like me)
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You need a kernel with USB OTG support. SebastianFM's kernel, here
The Micro Usb connector has 5 pins inside. In standard data cables that comes with the phone, only 4 pins are used. When the unused pin is connected, the cable becomes an OTG cable.
Pin 1 : VCC pin, +5V Power supply, COLOR : RED
Pin 2 : D-, Data- Signal line, COLOR : WHITE
Pin 3 : D+, Data+ Signal line, COLOR : GREEN
Pin 4 : This is the pin which is not used in standard data cables, we will "SHORT" it to pin 5 to make an OTG CABLE
Pin 5 : GND, Ground Supply
These colors are UNIVERSAL in USB connectors, this means the red is always VCC, black is GND and the other two always perform the same action, unless somebody deliberately connects the colors to different pins
Warning : I'M NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE ON ANYTHING. (YOUR PHONE, DATA CABLE, USB CONNECTOR, HOUSE, FERRARI ETC.) IF YOU AVOID ANY SHORT CIRCUITS, AND COMPLETE ALL THE STEPS AS I EXPLAIN THERE WILL BE NO PROBLEM. AND THIS TUTORIAL SUPPOSES YOUR PHONE AS AN HTC PYRAMID
IF YOU ALREADY HAVE AN OTG CABLE, YOU DON'T HAVE MUCH TO DO.. YOU GO TO 2
1 ) THOSE WHO DON'T EVEN HAVE AN OTG CABLE START HERE -THESE STEPS REQUIRE EXPERIENCE ON SOLDERING
What you need:
1)A "MICRO USB B" head. (Can be obtained from an old charger, data cable)
2)USB A Male to USB A Female Connector : These Connectors
3)USB Cable (A short one is enough)
4)A sharp knife,etc.
5)Soldering Kit
6)Hot Glue
7)Tape
8)Some experience on soldering
STEP 1 - The first thing yo need to do is to SLICE two sides of the plastic cover of the micro USB connector, and clean the glue under it. You will need the plastic cover later!
HAVE A LOOK AT THIS VIDEO TO UNDERSTAND CLEARLY
STEP 2 - Once you reach the pins under the glue, you can get your soldering iron now to start soldering.
Matching cable Colors and Pin NUMBERS AGAIN : 1-RED, 2-WHITE, 3-GREEN, 4-NO CABLE, 5-BLACK
STEP 3 - If you did soldering (or cables are already soldered to pins--if you're using a data cable) now you need to SHORT CIRCUIT the EMPTY PIN (PIN 4) and PIN 5 (Black Cable). You can use a very short piece of cable to do this. NOW YOU HAVE A "MICRO USB B" CONNECTOR WITH OTG SUPPORT.
STEP 4 - After you completed the soldering, and IF you are sure you made no mistakes, apply HOT GLUE. Wait for it to get cold and hard, then cover it with the plastics you sliced before. You can use cheap quick glues to do that. How the connector looks after all depends on your creativity and ability
STEP 5 - Cut the cable of the USB A MALE to USB A FEMALE connector at 20-25 cm from the female connector. Now you can connect USB Female A connector, Micro USB B connector, and USB Male A connector
STEP 6 - First connect the matching colored wires of USB FEMALE A connector and Micro USB B Connector (red to red-white to white-green to green-black to black). Now you've a working OTG cable, but without an external power connector.
STEP 7 - To connect the "USB A MALE" connector,which will be the external power to the OTG, you only need to connect red and black colored wires of it (the +5V and GND wires) to the matching colors of the other two cables you connected before ("MICRO USB B" and "USB A FEMALE"--The OTG CABLE you've made). If you connect white and green wires of "USB A MALE" connector, YOUR CABLE WILL NOT FUNCTION. DO NOT CONNECT WHITE AND GREEN WIRES OF MALE USB A CONNECTOR.
You can use soldering iron to strenghten the connection between wires. Or you can just use tape. It's up to you. Just be sure that there's no possibility of short circuits.
You need to use tape for each color of wires to prevent short circuits.
AGAIN : Be sure that you've made all the steps carefully and correctly, and avoided any short circuits before using your cable. The only short circuit should be the pin 4 and pin 5 of MICRO USB A connector
AND YES IT'S DONE, YOU CAN USE YOUR CABLE NOW
2 ) THOSE WHO HAVE USB OTG CABLE AND JUST WANT TO CONNECT AN EXTRA USB POWER CONNECTOR--START HERE
You need :
1)MALE USB A CONNECTOR with 100-120 cm cable -- lenght depends on you, should not be much longer than 2 meters(standard usb connectors) (U can get it from any data cables, old USB mouse cables, controller-joystick cables.. Just cut the cable at 100-120cm from the connector)
2)Your OTG Cable
3)A Sharp Knife etc.
4)Tape
5)Soldering kit (optional--if you want to strenghten the connections of wires)
STEP 1 ) Cut the USB OTG cable in the middle.
STEP 2 ) You only need red and black colored wires of "MALE USB A" connector, which are +5V and GND.
STEP 3 ) Connect the matching colors of your OTG cable again, but this time also connect the "MALE USB A" connector's red and black wires to the matching colors. WHITE and GREEN wires of this connector should not be connected. Otherwise the cable WILL NOT FUNCTION.
You need to use tape for each color of wires to prevent short circuits.
BE SURE THAT THERE'S NO POSSIBILITY OF SHORT CIRCUITS AND YOU'VE MADE NOTHING WRONG
You can also connect SHIELD WIRES of each cable to each other. But i'm not sure what actually it does. If you test it, please post your experiences.
What is Shield Wire:
The USB cables actually also have "SHIELD WIRE". My 2.5" external LG HDD does not work with the cables without shield wire, but many products should work. Shield wire is the one silver colored wire surrounding the other four colored cables and aluminium foil. It is connected to the outer silver colored parts of the connectors. I'll update this post after testing if shield wire needs to be connected,too. For now i use my cable without it, but my hdd does not work. All others (usb mouse, usb flash drives, joystick, hub, my sony e443 Walkman , PS3 Dualshock 3 Controller etc.) work. I don't know if the reason why my hdd does not work is that wire. Will test it by monday and upgrade my post.
My own made cable is attached below, not perfect, but good, working fine
Thanks to SebastianFM

Man this works great ! Thumbs up
Sent from my HTC Sensation XE with Beats Audio Z715e using xda app-developers app

can use y cable and usb on the go cable together
connect otg cable to data part of male y cable
y cable: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-USB-2-0..._USB_Cables_Hubs_Adapters&hash=item4d035494df
otg: http://www.ebay.com/itm/OTG-Host-Ex...921338?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item3f1af0b17a

Thanks!!
Hey i wanted to make my own DIY cable similar to yours. Similar cuz i will be using this on my allwinner based TABLET. it has native OTG support but the original cable is lost. i was looking for pinouts but this guide was better. :good::good::good::good: anyhow my main worry is :-
WE ARE USING EXTERNAL POWER SUPPLY WITH THIS HACK. IT WORKS FOR SURE NO DOUBT BUT, IS THERE A CHANCE THAT IT MIGHT DAMAGE THE TABLET . (current running back to the tablet ? tho i doubt it cuz my tablet can be charged with this same port also, still wanna be sure .. :silly: ) ??
PS: - USING HTC ORIGINAL USB CHARGER AS EXTERNAL POWER SUPPLY ( 5V & 1AMP) i only use external supply with hdd only. :angel::angel:
rest thumbs up !!! great work !! :good::good::good::victory:
---------- Post added at 07:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:47 PM ----------
badai said:
can use y cable and usb on the go cable together
connect otg cable to data part of male y cable
y cable: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-USB-2-0..._USB_Cables_Hubs_Adapters&hash=item4d035494df
otg: http://www.ebay.com/itm/OTG-Host-Ex...921338?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item3f1af0b17a
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes this combination works perfectly :laugh:
but i guess for all "DIY" ppl (like me) this is better .... he he ... :cyclops:

badai said:
can use y cable and usb on the go cable together
connect otg cable to data part of male y cable
y cable: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-USB-2-0..._USB_Cables_Hubs_Adapters&hash=item4d035494df
otg: http://www.ebay.com/itm/OTG-Host-Ex...921338?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item3f1af0b17a
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I couldnot find 2 males to one female usb cable (Y cable) in my country.. This is of course a better choice with no soldering, no tape, just connectors
mechexpert said:
Hey i wanted to make my own DIY cable similar to yours. Similar cuz i will be using this on my allwinner based TABLET. it has native OTG support but the original cable is lost. i was looking for pinouts but this guide was better. :good::good::good::good: anyhow my main worry is :-
WE ARE USING EXTERNAL POWER SUPPLY WITH THIS HACK. IT WORKS FOR SURE NO DOUBT BUT, IS THERE A CHANCE THAT IT MIGHT DAMAGE THE TABLET . (current running back to the tablet ? tho i doubt it cuz my tablet can be charged with this same port also, still wanna be sure .. :silly: ) ??
PS: - USING HTC ORIGINAL USB CHARGER AS EXTERNAL POWER SUPPLY ( 5V & 1AMP) i only use external supply with hdd only. :angel::angel:
rest thumbs up !!! great work !! :good::good::good::victory:
---------- Post added at 07:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:47 PM ----------
yes this combination works perfectly :laugh:
but i guess for all "DIY" ppl (like me) this is better .... he he ... :cyclops:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you avoid ANY short circuits, there's no possibility of damaging your product :good:

....................

confused
Sir, I have done exactly what's in the guide for having an otg cable and attaching a usb male for external power. But I am facing a little problem and that is when I connect power to usb male first, but without attaching to my Tab, and I connect my pen drive first, it doesn't get powers as the led doesn't blink. But it does blink only at the moment I insert the pen drive into the female usb. Now I did a different thing, I connected micro usb port to my Tab, then my pen drive and then the power male usb cable, it works fine. But I am getting confused that is my pen drive getting power from that attached usb male.

sauravdante said:
Sir, I have done exactly what's in the guide for having an otg cable and attaching a usb male for external power. But I am facing a little problem and that is when I connect power to usb male first, but without attaching to my Tab, and I connect my pen drive first, it doesn't get powers as the led doesn't blink. But it does blink only at the moment I insert the pen drive into the female usb. Now I did a different thing, I connected micro usb port to my Tab, then my pen drive and then the power male usb cable, it works fine. But I am getting confused that is my pen drive getting power from that attached usb male.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I sometimes face the same problem when i want to use my external HDD device. But its not a problem at all. I think usb male power has some difficulties on supplying enough power to both phone and HDD. It works by connecting HDD first, then USB male to power, and then phone. This order may change according to your charger, device, and phone
Sent from my HTC Sensation Z710e using xda app-developers app

i dont know what happened to this. i just did exactly all the steps.... then i first tried it on my HTC one s with a USB 16GB and now my USB doesnt work.... i even connected the USB to see if i still works on my computer and now its dead... ti doent even light up.....

romny19 said:
i dont know what happened to this. i just did exactly all the steps.... then i first tried it on my HTC one s with a USB 16GB and now my USB doesnt work.... i even connected the USB to see if i still works on my computer and now its dead... ti doent even light up.....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You may have damaged it? You sure you connected all the wires correctly? Because all these colors are universal and there shouldn't be any problem once everything properly done.
Sent from my HTC Sensation Z710e using xda app-developers app

Question.. on another thread someone mentioned using a 100k ohm resistor between pins 4 and 5 for "charging" while using OTG mode. Any particular reason why you didn't include this? reading your comments it appears like its not required but just curious.

Magoogle said:
Question.. on another thread someone mentioned using a 100k ohm resistor between pins 4 and 5 for "charging" while using OTG mode. Any particular reason why you didn't include this? reading your comments it appears like its not required but just curious.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some newer phones (like s3) do not charge while using a Y cable. For ex. the controller is connected to Y cable and it works with the phone, but the phone is not charged although the power is also connected to the Y cable. This is annoying because playing games consumes battery ver quickly I (am not sure but) think the reason for including a 100ohm resistor is to enable charging and host mode at the same time on such phones. On Sensation there's no need for it because this cable just works perfect for Sensation. Charges and hosts at the same time.
Sent from my HTC Sensation Z710e using xda app-developers app

Great info and instructions, now the only answer to the burning question I have is.......
..... Has anyone... Anyone! at all! managed to make a OTG Cable with a USB power plug, using the correct 'resistor' value while still using the phones stock 'unrooted' JB 4.1.2 rom, and stock 'kernal' not patched in anyway for the Samsung Galaxy Note 2.
Although there are products on eBay said to do this job, and have been reported to work by others, the sellers that offer these adapters are all based in China, and will not trade/sell to Europe at all.
If anyone has a solution around this problem, sharing there knowledge would be great.
Regards

Hey guys
Is it possible to use a USB HUB and connect to phone via otg cable and use mouse and keyboard and charge the phone simultaneously?
Is not dangerous for phone?
Guide me please
Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

Thank you for this i made one for my galaxy s3 but just the otg part was alittle worried about having power wire on there.

http://www.ebay.in/itm/Nokia-OTG-CA...?pt=IN_Mobile_Accessories&hash=item2c6a772a16
http://www.ebay.in/itm/New-USB-2-0-...7?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_203&hash=item256a8d30a5
http://www.ebay.in/itm/USB-2-0-Fema...8?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_203&hash=item1c2e292b28
Will This combination work's???..
I worried , coz for power supply we needs only black and red wire connected to otg , but here all 4 wire connected to otg
Sent from my HTC Sensation Z710e using xda app-developers app

I followed the instructions(and even this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nc7tlPwFQpg ) but could not get the touchpad to work with a usb mouse, no cursor, even though the LED on the optical mouse lit up (showing there is power).
i tried a pen drive also but when I opened ES file manager,could not see anything called MOUNT DRIVE in favourites...where else should I look for usb drive?
I need to get the mouse working first.
I am running CM9 nightly of 2nd DEC 2012 on my HP Touchpad(which is USB OTG ENABLED)

Thanks for the guide and easy to follow pics OP. Just one question though, is there a way to test the cable before trying it on my own device? Or do i have to just test each end separately one by one with a multimeter?

arses said:
Hey guys
Is it possible to use a USB HUB and connect to phone via otg cable and use mouse and keyboard and charge the phone simultaneously?
Is not dangerous for phone?
Guide me please
Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There will be no problem at all, i use it, connect flash drive, hard drive, mouse and a joystick at the same time

Itsakash said:
http://www.ebay.in/itm/Nokia-OTG-CA...?pt=IN_Mobile_Accessories&hash=item2c6a772a16
http://www.ebay.in/itm/New-USB-2-0-...7?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_203&hash=item256a8d30a5
http://www.ebay.in/itm/USB-2-0-Fema...8?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_203&hash=item1c2e292b28
Will This combination work's???..
I worried , coz for power supply we needs only black and red wire connected to otg , but here all 4 wire connected to otg
Sent from my HTC Sensation Z710e using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nokia OTG cables are not Micro B connectors but Micro A. So The OTG cable for N8 will not fit into our sensation or other android phones. You can see the difference between Micro A and Micro B here :
chinna_rao said:
I followed the instructions(and even this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nc7tlPwFQpg ) but could not get the touchpad to work with a usb mouse, no cursor, even though the LED on the optical mouse lit up (showing there is power).
i tried a pen drive also but when I opened ES file manager,could not see anything called MOUNT DRIVE in favourites...where else should I look for usb drive?
I need to get the mouse working first.
I am running CM9 nightly of 2nd DEC 2012 on my HP Touchpad(which is USB OTG ENABLED)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
U can use Chainfire's StickMount app free on playstore to see if your flashdrive is connected. If it shows no drives connected then check your connections, optionally using a multimeter. Check the 4th pin is shorted to 5th one.
NewbCentral said:
Thanks for the guide and easy to follow pics OP. Just one question though, is there a way to test the cable before trying it on my own device? Or do i have to just test each end separately one by one with a multimeter?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you have a multimeter it will be good to test of course. If you're sure that u coonected all wires without any wrong short circuits there will be no problem, no damage for the phone

[Q] MS Surface Cover Connector Pinout

I know this is probably more for Microsoft Surface Developer Section but seeing how I am still pretty new I don't have enough post to be able to post in that area.
I am mainly curious if anyone knows the pin outs for the Touch/Type Cover connector on the bottom of the tablet and if it uses standard USB or if it is some kind of special propitiatory type connection that would say connect the keyboard membrane to the keyboard controller that may be in the tablet? If it is just a standard USB connection I am thinking about cannibalizing a touch cover to see if I can create a home Grown Dock so to speak for the tablet that would have a USB hub for keyboard and mouse and a USB to Ethernet adapter that works with the tablet. The USB hub will draw power from a modified Power Cord for the tablet IF I can figure out that electrical later on to where it wont fry my tablet or other accessories but first I need to figure out the first part.
TLDR Does anyone know if the touch/type cover user a standard USB protocol and if so what is the pin layout for the connector on the tablet. If anyone can help that would be appreciated.

I just received a surface and they through in 2 type covers. said, "keep it" on a sticky note. I am now working on figuring out what the connectors are. I dont see the point of having 6 connectors, so I think that some may be ground or false. I will open up one of the keyboards to see what ships they are connecting to. i would think it has to be usb. I know that the 6th pin, that is 6th from the left pin, is 1.8v when grounded. I am guessing that the voltage goes up once the surface detects the attached keyboard. I will write back, let me know if you have figured anything else out. seems like we are hte only people on the internet who even care at this point. and microsoft is literally giving away surface computers.
Greg00135 said:
I know this is probably more for Microsoft Surface Developer Section but seeing how I am still pretty new I don't have enough post to be able to post in that area.
I am mainly curious if anyone knows the pin outs for the Touch/Type Cover connector on the bottom of the tablet and if it uses standard USB or if it is some kind of special propitiatory type connection that would say connect the keyboard membrane to the keyboard controller that may be in the tablet? If it is just a standard USB connection I am thinking about cannibalizing a touch cover to see if I can create a home Grown Dock so to speak for the tablet that would have a USB hub for keyboard and mouse and a USB to Ethernet adapter that works with the tablet. The USB hub will draw power from a modified Power Cord for the tablet IF I can figure out that electrical later on to where it wont fry my tablet or other accessories but first I need to figure out the first part.
TLDR Does anyone know if the touch/type cover user a standard USB protocol and if so what is the pin layout for the connector on the tablet. If anyone can help that would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

any progress?
i already build a power wire, with a 5,5mm plug to connect it to my Intocircuit PC26000 for more juice on the go, and for a second charger.
you can see the pinouts of the power plug in the attatched pic.
let me know if you got any results for the cover connector so far - if its USB, i will implement my UMTS stick into a cover
Cheers!

just got pictures of the cover connector, see attatchment.
in fact all the 6 pins are connected. USB 2.0 would take 4 of them.
my guess is that one of them could be a switch, to turn the device & keyboard on and off.

any progress
Curious if anyone has made any progress on decoding the pinout, figuring out if it's usb or not?

i didn't do any further research - but it guess it's usb, or at least kind of... as it shows up as USB device in the device manager...

tfBullet said:
just got pictures of the cover connector, see attatchment.
in fact all the 6 pins are connected. USB 2.0 would take 4 of them.
my guess is that one of them could be a switch, to turn the device & keyboard on and off.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Judging by the connector and the fact that the covers are USB-based and can be used reversed, the pinout makes perfect sense. The likely possibility for the pinout is as follows:
Power Cover connector (Using pin labels in picture)
1/10 = Power cover +ve
2/9 = Power cover Ground
Touch/Type connector (Using pin labels in picture)
3 = +ve
4 = Ground
5/6 = Data +ve or -ve (reversible internally)
7/8 = Attachment direction detect
Pins on Touch/Type cover itself (Pinout from left [1] to right [6])
1/6 = +ve
2/5 = Ground
3/4 = Data +ve or -ve (reversible internally)
As to if the USB data pairs are swapped on the SP or the Cover, we cannot know without more information. Depending on the voltage supplied or the presence of unauthorised hardware detection (e.g. the ID chip in Apple earphones, I doubt it), custom USB devices should be fairly trivial (electrically).

I know this is an old thread but has anyone made any further progress on this? If not, I'm considering experimenting myself with a spare touch cover and a raspberry pi

geronphillips said:
I know this is an old thread but has anyone made any further progress on this? If not, I'm considering experimenting myself with a spare touch cover and a raspberry pi
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, im sorry, i didn't make further progress on this, exept what i already posted.. it is a USB connection, you can easily verify that yourself by looking at the Touch/type-cover in the device-manager...
I guess you can easily connect other USB devices if you build yourself an adapter..
but there could also be some kind of verification, if so then its most likely software based, if you hit a barrier, try reverseing the type-cover driver, you might find something there...
One additional info: the big outer nipples can be used to charge the device.
Peace

If I were to leverage the bottom grooves for charging, can you tell me which pin is which? +/-
tfBullet said:
Nope, im sorry, i didn't make further progress on this, exept what i already posted.. it is a USB connection, you can easily verify that yourself by looking at the Touch/type-cover in the device-manager...
I guess you can easily connect other USB devices if you build yourself an adapter..
but there could also be some kind of verification, if so then its most likely software based, if you hit a barrier, try reverseing the type-cover driver, you might find something there...
One additional info: the big outer nipples can be used to charge the device.
Peace
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Hi tfBullet,
When you say "the big outer nipples can be used to charge the devices" are you referring to these...
Power Cover connector (Using pin labels in picture)
1/10 = Power cover +ve
2/9 = Power cover Ground

Any new discovery?
Any new discovery?

will the power output still be live, if the data signals are not shorted? e.g: IOS devices

Can we just connect the keyboard via usb to a windows pc?

I don't think this is true USB, as there is no 5 volts anywhere on the connector, only 3.3 volts.. It may be USB, but needing to be level-shifted before you can use it. It may be potentially a way to get another USB port on the damn thing. Why did they think one USB port is enough? I have been trying to boot it from flash drive, but need keyboard as well, but the USB will not boot with a hub connected. Grrrrr.

slurpy1 said:
I don't think this is true USB, as there is no 5 volts anywhere on the connector, only 3.3 volts.. It may be USB, but needing to be level-shifted before you can use it. It may be potentially a way to get another USB port on the damn thing. Why did they think one USB port is enough? I have been trying to boot it from flash drive, but need keyboard as well, but the USB will not boot with a hub connected. Grrrrr.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why not booting on a flash drive and use the usb for keyboard???

There's someone here who's made some progress...
edwardsh.in/keyboard%20cover/2015/08/13/applying-logic-to-the-surface-touch-cover

i want to connect the keyboard itself to other devices
Hey guys
Good thread going on , i would like to see if any one of you ever thought about to use keyboard itself not the port , for some reasons I would like to use the keyboard on other devices (i mean kinda convert the pins to a USB port and use it on other pcs or what i really desire about is using it on Xbox) i want to see if any of you have any ideas or information about this , i mean is this even possible ? I've read the whole replies and most of them were about the port on surface and yeah its really cool , but i want to see if its possible to do , cause if its possible then it would be a lot easier than the port on the surface
Thanks

Ferrybigger said:
Hey guys
Good thread going on , i would like to see if any one of you ever thought about to use keyboard itself not the port , for some reasons I would like to use the keyboard on other devices (i mean kinda convert the pins to a USB port and use it on other pcs or what i really desire about is using it on Xbox) i want to see if any of you have any ideas or information about this , i mean is this even possible ? I've read the whole replies and most of them were about the port on surface and yeah its really cool , but i want to see if its possible to do , cause if its possible then it would be a lot easier than the port on the surface
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, take a look at the link Neakmenter posted, the guy there analyzed the communication, turns out it's no standard USB, it's proprietary.. Which means, there is no easy way of using this keyboard anywhere else than the surface... You would need some kind of microcontroller which connects to the keyboard, interprets it's signals, and relays them as Standart HID signals to a USB port..
The connector alone is a problem as well, you'd need to 3D print a connector or something like that, it's just not worth the effort i guess [emoji2371]
Gesendet von meinem MAR-LX1A mit Tapatalk

Alternative to micro USB Charging / Data cable

Someone asked help on our local forum about this and I thought it might also be of help here, so here goes my share.
If you are like me who wants to carry only a small cable for charging and data transfers, you'll find it hard to get your hands on a good micro USB charging/data cable. Buying micro USB charging/data cable for Samsung is tricky since the wiring can be different from the normal USB cable. There should be 5 pins on the micro end, but sometimes there are just 4. But Samsung cable uses only 4 pins that might have been rewired. I'm not sure whether only Samsung does this or the same can be said of the other brands. There are also micro USB cables being sold that does only charging and no data function, and vice versa.
I've grown tired of searching for a cheapo charging/data cable that doesn't deliver the function, so what I did was I bought micro USB to USB adapters instead and bought a normal female-to-male usb cable extender just in case the fragile cable wires get broken again they can be easily replaced. They get the job done. You can also use the other gender adapter and cable combo but using the same combo that I use enables you to charge and transfer data with just the adapter and without the cable in case the fragile cable gets damaged.
They charge the phone as fast as what the USB power brick provides and what the phone can accept at the same time. :victory:
This thread was opened with the intention to help others to easily find an almost guaranteed working data/charging cable combo because not everyone has access to a cheap branded cable. (And sometimes even a branded cable does not guarantee both functions). This is a quicker guaranteed solution for those buying micro USB cable that has no way to test the cable they are purchasing, mostly those buying online or those buying impulsively.
The logic behind the "almost guaranteed working data/charging cable combo" is that unlike micro USB cable, an extension cable guarantees that every pin has its own wire with no modifications, that's why it is called an extension cable. The micro USB adapter, guarantees the full conversion from micro USB to USB interface to have all pins connected properly, that's why it is called adapter/converter.
So, if you do not like the idea of the extended length that is protruding out of your micro USB slot, this thread is not for you and you are not obliged to use or try the setup in any way. The solution provided here is not perfect but a fully functional solution.
I hope this can help someone.
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No offense, but that is a seriously stupid idea. Do you have any idea the amount of leverage that contraption will put on the μUSB port? Hit that wrong or yank it too far and it will snap the port right off the board.
There is absolutely nothing special about any Samsung charger or cable. They use standard, straight-through A-B cables just like every other phone. The chargers themselves conform to industry standards, whereas + and - are on pins 1 and 4, and the data pins are tied together in order to trigger the phone into high current charge mode. The "B" end of a mini/micro USB does have 5 pins - the extra pin is for an ID resistor (referenced to ground), so the phone can identify when it has been inserted into a desk or car dock. There is no corresponding pin on the "A" end, and the lack of an ID resistor or the physical pin will have absolutely no effect on charging.

Taz420nj said:
No offense, but that is a seriously stupid idea. Do you have any idea the amount of leverage that contraption will put on the μUSB port? Hit that wrong or yank it too far and it will snap the port right off the board..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The same goes for the charging flap. Anything that is applied too much force will break. I've been using it for almost a month now and everything is fine. It's just an alternative, maybe a short-term substitute for the oem usb cable if you want.
Taz420nj said:
There is absolutely nothing special about any Samsung charger or cable. They use standard, straight-through A-B cables just like every other phone. The chargers themselves conform to industry standards, whereas + and - are on pins 1 and 4, and the data pins are tied together in order to trigger the phone into high current charge mode. The "B" end of a mini/micro USB does have 5 pins - the extra pin is for an ID resistor (referenced to ground), so the phone can identify when it has been inserted into a desk or car dock. There is no corresponding pin on the "A" end, and the lack of an ID resistor or the physical pin will have absolutely no effect on charging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And how would you explain the slow charging by other micro usb cables then when using the Samsung-bundled power brick? The usb cables work properly with other devices, other than Samsung. I have plenty of them, only 1 other cable works properly.
http://forums.androidcentral.com/samsung-galaxy-s4-accessories/274965-samsung-s4s-micro-usb-standard-usb-cable-2.html
And no, Samsung bundles 4-pin cables. So the phone can't identify when it has been inserted into a desk or car dock?

I've never had any trouble with generic charging cables on any of my Samsung Galaxy phones. That adaptor looks useful for plugging in a memory stick though. Lol
Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

My Kindle USB charger cable doesn't work for my S5. It just doesn't fit but all my other charges cables from my S3, Nexus 7 and of course my S5 cable work. A bit strange but I guess it is the problem of the Kindle cable? BTW the Kindle one works on my S5...

jopat said:
The same goes for the charging flap. Anything that is applied too much force will break. I've been using it for almost a month now and everything is fine. It's just an alternative, maybe a short-term substitute for the oem usb cable if you want.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Of course anything can be broken given enough force. But it takes far less force to break something when you have effectively quadrupled the length of the lever. The stock cable's plug is 1/2" long. That contraption is easily 2" long. That's the same reason you don't use a one-piece solid adapter to plug 1/4" headphones into the 1/8" jack on your phone. It's 6th grade science.
And how would you explain the slow charging by other micro usb cables then when using the Samsung-bundled power brick? The usb cables work properly with other devices, other than Samsung. I have plenty of them, only 1 other cable works properly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Considering you are the only one to have this "problem", Mod Edit – Some content removed . USB is USB. That's the entire point of adhering to standards. There are no "special" or "rewired" cables for Samsung, nor does any current Samsung device (with the exception of the Tab2 10.1) require any proprietary cable or charger. If a device's connectors do not adhere to the published USB standards, then the USB name and logo can not be used under penalty of law. A company can use the technology in a non-standard configuration, but it must have a distinctly different connector and can not use the USB marks.
And no, Samsung bundles 4-pin cables. So the phone can't identify when it has been inserted into a desk or car dock?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
WTF are you talking about? The standard "A" side of ANY USB cable only has 4 pins. There is no such thing as a 5 pin standard "A". The μUSB JACK on the phone has all 5 pins (well, technically 10, since it is USB3.0, but the extras aren't pertinent). μUSB "B" end of a CABLE does not use the ID pin (pin 4), because it does not need to - so whether or not it is physically present in the plug end is moot, because even if it is there, it's not connected to anything. The only thing the ID pin is used for is for situations where the phone needs to know when a certain device is connected. If the ID pin is connected straight to ground, the phone knows that an OTG adapter is plugged in and it puts itself into host mode. If it sees a certain resistance to ground, it puts itself into either car mode or dock mode depending on what resistance it sees.
And for the record, most of the posters commenting in that thread you linked to over at AC are retards. Especially the OP, who claims to "know for certain" that the S3 uses a connection with reversed pins. Because just like EVERY OTHER PHONE WITH A μUSB PORT, the S3's jack follows the USB standard pinout.
---------- Post added at 12:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:48 PM ----------
AMoosa said:
I've never had any trouble with generic charging cables on any of my Samsung Galaxy phones. That adaptor looks useful for plugging in a memory stick though. Lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It won't work, because it's not an actual OTG adapter. It doesn't have the ID pin tied to ground in order to put the phone into host mode.

This made me LOL
But yes any A to Micro USB cable will work. However, if you use the provided cable that Samsung gives you it will charge quicker by using the extra USB3.0 plug.
But, my S4 charges just as fast as the standard OEM cable they provided when using my Galaxy S2 or any other quality USB A to Micro USB wire. This however is not true when using junk/cheap USB cables irregardless the USB plug ends. The wire quality is usually pants compared to other brands. Some of the cheap USB wires will even show a resistance on an ohms meter.
In the end, the OP is making a very complicated USB plug for their phone Just buy a quality USB cable from walmart ebay bestbuy etc

elesbb said:
But yes any A to Micro USB cable will work. However, if you use the provided cable that Samsung gives you it will charge quicker by using the extra USB3.0 plug.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, but that's wrong*. The 3.0 plug only adds extra data pins. Power still runs through pins 1 and 5. It will charge faster if you use the provided CHARGER - because that outputs two amps, versus the 3/4 to one amp output by older/generic chargers. The S2/S3 came with one amp cube chargers, the S4/S5 came with a two amp. The ones you find at gas stations are generally 750mA to one amp. But it does not matter if you use a 2.0 or 3.0 cable to get that charge rate, because it is dependent on the charger, not the cable..
[* the 3.0 standard does call for higher power capability when connected to a computer port - the device can negotiate up to 900mA from the host while simultaneously transmitting data (USB2.0 specifies up to 500mA). However this is still lower than the power that is available from the supplied charger.]
As far as sourcing cables, you absolutely can't go wrong with Monoprice. They have the high quality cables with the glossy, hard plastic plug grips (just like what comes with Apple and high end Samsung products) for $3..

Taz420nj said:
LOL I just noticed that
RETARD changed the pics in the OP of which adapter and cable he kludged together - I guess in an attempt to make it look less idiotic.. However it's still stupid, because YOU CAN USE ANY A-TO-MICRO-B CABLE IN ANY LENGTH.
In case anyone's interested, this is what he had originally posted..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LoL
Those are not the pics I posted, you just posted your own pics. You're always trying too hard. :silly:
But, yes, I changed the pics because the pics are the opposite gender from what I have indicated that I bought. Nonetheless, they are the objects indicated as vice versa, which failed to register in the pea-size object inside that large cranium of yours.
so what I did was I bought micro USB to USB adapters instead and bought a normal female-to-male usb cable extender just in case the fragile cable wires get broken again they can be easily replaced. They get the job done. You can also use the other gender adapter and cable combo but using the same combo that I use enables you to charge and transfer data with just the adapter and without the cable in case the fragile cable gets damaged.
Taz420nj said:
I actually don't need to back up my "claim" (which it's not actually a "claim", it's a well-documented, globally recognized industry standard) - because you're posting all the evidence for me. You're just too stupid to realize it. Now please. After you impale your crotch on that rusty gate (you should do it multiple times just to be sure), go eat some kindergarten paste and play hopscotch with the rest of the retards.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's because you can't, in any way. First, you don't have that capacity. Second, those " well-documented, globally recognized industry standard" is not for the "USB" that you re referring to, therefore they don't exist. "USB" is not the whole device or cable itself, but the receptacle & plug and how they will transmit power and data. They don't specify how the device should deliver them. In fact, you can attach another device in the cable between the USB ends.
Taz420nj said:
USB is an INDUSTRY STANDARD. That means in order for a manufacturer to be allowed to call a device "USB Certified", the manufacturer MUST ADHERE TO THE STANDARD'S POSTED SPECIFICATIONS. It does not matter whether the manufacturer chose to use a standard, mini, or micro USB port. It also does not matter if the manufacturer uses a dual-purpose port (such as a USB/eSATA hybrid port on a laptop) or proprietary port (such as Samsung's 11 pin Micro USB) - provided that the port is BACKWARDS COMPATIBLE (there's that obscure word again) - meaning that still adheres to the posted specifications for pinouts and connector dimensions for the USB standard.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll say it once again, the USB standard is for the connectors. Anything beyond the connectors and the immediate wires connecting on the pins are not covered by the standard that you claim.
So, just for everyone's information, and since I am already tired of your continued spawning of nonsense and making others ignorant as you, I will explain everything in detail in layman's term. Although, I doubt that eenie weenie pea-size object in your cranium can comprehend them. But nonetheless, I will have maximum tolerance for the handicapped in this thread. Be sure not to post any blabbering anymore, because your ignorance is being broadcasted worldwide.
USB is a plug & socket standard, just like your power plug and power sockets. They have their own standards set by the governing bodies to ensure universality among electronic devices to ensure that they fit and function. Like the power plug, the USB has + and - wires, but with added wires for data transfer. The standard refers to the physical dimensions and positions of the plug and function of the pins, as well as the code classes, but anything beyond that other than the voltage are not covered by the usb standard. If they were also included in the same standard, there won't be innovation. It will be dictating something like a power plug can only be attached to an electric fan and cannot be used elsewhere. The wires inside are also not obliged by the standard to be present. Although there are 4 pins, they are not required to be all used and attached electric wires into. This is the reason why you can't say that all USB cables are the same and will function the same, and that especially applies to micro USB cables. They look the same but you will not know the difference until you use them or slice them open.
Taz420nj said:
However it's still stupid, because YOU CAN USE ANY A-TO-MICRO-B CABLE IN ANY LENGTH.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For your statement that you keep on insisting, your tribe was obviously left out by civilization. For charging/data cable, which this thread aims to give alternative to, you need the correct micro USB cable, using just any micro USB cable that you come across won't guarantee that it will supply power for charging and do data transfer.
Regarding length, you cannot use just ANY LENGTH because the signal weakens after a certain length. You will need to attach a booster to maintain that transfer speed longer than that length.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB#Cabling
The USB 1.1 Standard specifies that a standard cable can have a maximum length of 5 meters with devices operating at Full Speed (12 Mbit/s), and a maximum length of 3 meters with devices operating at Low Speed (1.5 Mbit/s).
USB 2.0 provides for a maximum cable length of 5 meters for devices running at Hi Speed (480 Mbit/s). The primary reason for this limit is the maximum allowed round-trip delay of about 1.5 μs. If USB host commands are unanswered by the USB device within the allowed time, the host considers the command lost. When adding USB device response time, delays from the maximum number of hubs added to the delays from connecting cables, the maximum acceptable delay per cable amounts to 26 ns. The USB 2.0 specification requires that cable delay be less than 5.2 ns per meter (192 000 km/s, which is close to the maximum achievable transmission speed for standard copper wire).
The USB 3.0 standard does not directly specify a maximum cable length, requiring only that all cables meet an electrical specification: for copper cabling with AWG 26 wires the maximum practical length is 3 meters (9.8 ft).
This is, again, straight from wiki:
To reliably enable a charge-only feature, modern USB accessory peripherals now include charging cables that provide power connections to the host port but no data connections, and both home and vehicle charging docks are available that supply power from a converter device and do not include a host device and data pins, allowing any capable USB device to charge or operate from a standard USB cable.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB#Connector_types
This is particularly evident in most micro USB cables bundled with powerbanks. The powerbank requires only to supply power and it doesn't need data transfer. So, it is more logical to bundle data-less cable so that the material acquisition cost could be lowered. The opposite can said about older cellphones that are bundled with proprietary charging cables that have micro USB slots for data transfer. Most of their bundled USB cables do not have charging capabilities, although some can still be charged when plugged into the computer.
And also, this proves that USB cables do not provide the same current or amperage. And also proves that not all micro USB cables will charge your device at full speed due to different resistance which the caveman has still failed to answer. The OP provided visuals, so I'm hoping the caveman can at least recognize them. This is a factual data and not some blabbering blah-blah-blah from someone obviously left out by time.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2451375
vectron said:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This thread was opened with the intention to help others to easily find an almost guaranteed working data/charging cable combo alternative because not everyone has access to a cheap branded cable. (And sometimes even a branded cable does not guarantee both functions). This is a quicker guaranteed solution for those buying micro USB cable that has no way to test the cable they are purchasing, mostly those buying online or those buying impulsively.
The logic behind the "almost guaranteed working data/charging cable combo" is that unlike micro USB cable, an extension cable guarantees that every pin has its own wire with no modifications, that's why it is called an extension cable. The micro USB adapter, guarantees the full conversion from micro USB to USB interface to have all pins connected properly, that's why it is called adapter/converter.
So, if you do not like the idea of the extended length that is protruding out of your micro USB slot, this thread is not for you and you are not obliged to use or try the setup in any way. The solution provided here is not perfect but a fully functional solution.

To avoid further trolling, this thread will not be updated any more nor any post will be made by the OP.

Oh my f*cking god it is amazing that someone can be as utterly stupid as you are and survive beyond puberty. Seriously, do you have any idea what a moron you sound like?
YOU HAVE NO CLUE WHAT YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT.
I find it absolutely ASTOUNDING that you are quoting sources that completely contradict your argument, and yet you claim them as evidence that you are right.
I was particularly amused by the fact that you quoted the wiki, but you don't seem to have read or understood what you quoted in the least. This is evidenced by the fact that you claim:
jopat said:
] Second, those " well-documented, globally recognized industry standard" is not for the "USB" that you re referring to, therefore they don't exist. "USB" is not the whole device or cable itself, but the receptacle & plug and how they will transmit power and data. They don't specify how the device should deliver them. In fact, you can attach another device in the cable between the USB ends.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
and
jopat said:
]I'll say it once again, the USB standard is for the connectors. Anything beyond the connectors and the immediate wires connecting on the pins are not covered by the standard that you claim.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But if you had actually read the VERY FIRST LINE at the top of the wiki entry, it says:
Universal Serial Bus (USB) is an industry standard developed in the mid-1990s that defines the cables, connectors and communications protocols used in a bus for connection, communication, and power supply between computers and electronic devices
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is not just about the "connectors and the immediate wires connecting the pins", the USB standard lays out EVERYTHING, from the connector dimensions, to the pinouts, to the cables, to the power transmission levels, to the data transfer. If a device does not comply with those standards, then it can not be legally called "USB Certified".
Game, set, match.

Mod Edit
Thread Closed
ronnie498
Forum Moderator

[REVIEW] Inateck 4 Port USB Hub HB5001

Overview
Hi all. So i’ve got my hands on another product from Inateck, one of the new up and coming tech firms that seem to do a little bit of everything. Im quite excited about this product, its something i’ve been in the market for a little while as im getting more USB3.0 gadgets and I couldnt wait to open it! My Review today is on one of the new products which is a 4 port USB3.0 hub with an additional 2A charging port for phones / tablets etc.
Unboxing
The hub arrived in a small black, fairly solid feeling box with a brief description and small picture of the product on the front. On the back there are a lot of features and specs listed.
The features listed on the back are:
Superspeed (5Gbps)/high speed(480Mbps)/full speed (12Mbps)
Status led indicates the operation mode of each USB port
The 5V/2A port is equipped with intelligent charging chip to support battery charging for Samsung tablets, iPad and smart phones.
Compliant with USB2.0 and lower version
Compliant with large capacity hard disk
Plug&Play, Hot Swappable.
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The Specifications listed are:
Product Model: Inateck HB5001
Product Name: 4 Port USB3.0 HUB with 1 Port Charging
Product Interface: USB3.0x3 + 5V/2A Charging
Product Dimensions: 125x63x15mm
Product Weight: 80g
OS Support: Windows XP/ Vista / 7/8/8.1, Mac OS
Certificate: CE&FCC Approval
So a lot of info on the outer box. Without further waiting im going to open it up and its time to finally play with the device ive been looking forward to for the past week!
So opening up the box im greeted with a very well packed, plastic wrapped hub, sitting in a protective plastic tray, under which is an adaptor plug with a 1.5m lead and a USB3.0 which is 1.2m long.
Lead Length
I just want to highlight this fact, i really like the lead length, I know it sounds like a silly thing to highlight and people are probably wanting me to get on with reviewing the actual hub but lead length is important. Keep in mind that to keep USB3.0 speeds if you want to use an extension lead you it will need to be USB3.0 compliant and honestly thats a pain. My home PC case is almost up to my waist and I wanted a hub that would plug in down the depths of the back of the PC and I could put the hub on my desk to plug in devices. I know its very much personal preference but this has a nice lead length to reach down the back of a tower and sit on my desk without much messing around so im really please about this. The USB3.0 lead is a standard lead with the normal USB micro B plug to go into the hub so the lead is interchangeable if you do want something different.
Hands on
Ok so the plastic wrap has been removed and its time to place with the device. Can I just pause to say though that its nice to hold a product that the manufacturer cares enough about to add plastic wrap on the top and bottom to protect the device. makes it feel very premium and new!
The hub is nice and light and feels fairly hollow as you would expect. On the top is black and silver plastic that is about half and half the device. The black is on the back end and houses the power button on the top in the middle. The power button doubles as a power LED which is only illuminated when the hub is turned on and is not always on when plugged in. There are green connection LEDs for each USB port which light up on connection.
On the bottom side are 4 small rubber feet to stop the hub from sliding about the place while its in use / in place. Moving round to the front of the device is the 4 USB3.0 ports with a good spacing between each to allow bigger devices such as USB memory sticks to be plugged in without taking up 2 slots. On the right hand side is the USB 5v / 2.0A charging port for charging phones / tablets etc. Finally round the back is the USB 3.0 micro B input and power input.
Overall the device feels fairly solid in my hands and not like its about to come apart.
Testing
Playing around with the hub on my HP Elitebook 9470m, the first thing I tried was to see if the hub can be used without plugging it into the mains. To you use hub you plug is in (obviously!) and you need to press the button on top to turn the hub on, good news is that it can be used for USB devices without plugging into the mains but with the caveat (as usual with hubs) that if you are plugging in multiple high power devices not all will work e.g. more than 1 portable hard drive. My PC detected the hub as a USB2.0 and USB3.0 hub, no information on the driver chip in use.
One thing I noted is that unplugging and re-plugging the hub means you have to turn it on again in order to use any connected devices. Its the same upon reboot, even if the hub is on when the PC powers off, it will need to be turned on to be used. I can see plus and minus points for this and it really depends on how you want to use if. Me for example, I have several USB3.0 drives that I dont use every day but its nice to have them all plugged into my PC ready to go if and want and when I can just hit the button to power the hub and allow me access to the devices. If you are planning on using this as a hub on your desktop do keep in mind that you have to plug in your device and perform a button press to access a device. Not sure how I feel about this, I think I would rather have a switch so I have the choice of hub on or off and my preference will save, im tempted to perform a teardown and change the button to a switch.
Plugging in my Western digital portable hard drive, the green light above the port comes on and its detected no problem without the power adapter being used. I’ve performed several speed tests with my Jetflash USB stick and my USB3 western digital hard drives and performing speed tests side by side showed no slowdown suggesting that this hub used a good chip to manage data flow and not bottleneck at any point during transfer. My tests were transferring large data files to several devices at once, which is a worst case scenario, and even under this stress the hub performed admirably not showing any slow-downs or dips during transfer. Plugging another device in during the speed tests also had no effect.
So onto the phone charging feature that this hub offers. I tested this on my good trusty Samsung Galaxy S4 and measured the amperage going into the phone under various scenarios e.g when a new device is plugged into the hub to test the robustness under everyday use.
Pricing
Currently the hub is on offer on Amazon UK, and its a really good price, especially after playing with it im really pleased with the build quality and host of features for the very low / competitive price. It is currently on a 60% reduction so £20 for a charger and premium hub is a good deal in my eyes so im happy!
Positive points
+Good cable length, both the adaptor and USB3.0 cable
+Sleek looking design
+Connectivity LEDs for each USB port.
+Switch to turn on and off
+5v 2A USB phone / tablet charging port
+Can use as a USB hub without plugging into the mains
+High quality build
+very low competitive price
+Good performance, no slowdowns during stress testing
+USB2.0 compatible
+Rubber feed to stop it slipping (you wont believe how many hubs ive had that dont have this!)
Uses standard USB pinout, no proprietary cable.
Negative points
-Black plastic is a bit of a fingerprint magnet, not really a problem if its sitting on a desk.
-Have to turn it on at every PC boot to use
Conclusions
Overall a very nice little product at a reasonable price. Ticks all the boxes id be looking for with a hub.
Score
My Score out of 5:
:good::good::good::good::good:
5 out of 5 - it didn't feel like any points should be knocked of for my minor annoyance with the power button.
Bottom Line
Very impressive little device, long cables and easy to use.
Links
Amazon UK
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck®-Charging-Samsung-Computers-Smartphone/dp/B00GT7LDDG

Nice review
Thanks for your review:good::good: