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[Q] 40 pin connector pinout and mating connector anyone?

I believe the 40 pin connector has everything we could use including HDMI, USB, charging, and probably more.
Does anyone know the pinout and the mating connector? I want to make an adapter that would make the HDelight WHDI transmitter work with the tablet directly without the dock. It needs power from USB, in addition to HDMI. I am guessing both are in the 40 pin connector.

BUMP
Since the TF101 has been out a while, so hoping someone has some info on this?
cloud9ine said:
I believe the 40 pin connector has everything we could use including HDMI, USB, charging, and probably more.
Does anyone know the pinout and the mating connector? I want to make an adapter that would make the HDelight WHDI transmitter work with the tablet directly without the dock. It needs power from USB, in addition to HDMI. I am guessing both are in the 40 pin connector.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Would be pretty neat , But sorry i got no information on the topic

cloud9ine said:
I believe the 40 pin connector has everything we could use including HDMI, USB, charging, and probably more.
Does anyone know the pinout and the mating connector? I want to make an adapter that would make the HDelight WHDI transmitter work with the tablet directly without the dock. It needs power from USB, in addition to HDMI. I am guessing both are in the 40 pin connector.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have got the 40pin connector but don't know what can i do with it.. ummm.. I mean, What's the accessories will be hot? A cable integrated HDMI,USB3.0 and WLAN? Dose TF101 has a WLAN? I haven't open my TF to see..

xjarl said:
I have got the 40pin connector but don't know what can i do with it.. ummm.. I mean, What's the accessories will be hot? A cable integrated HDMI,USB3.0 and WLAN? Dose TF101 has a WLAN? I haven't open my TF to see..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you can make a bunch of Power Adapters for it...that's be great. I've been trying to find the 40pin connector for a while now.
I don't think people need HDMI out on the cable, b/c that's built-in in the form of a mini-HDMI cable. I think most people would want a way to hook up USB devices to it. A 40pin to USB hub (3-4 ports) would be really nice.
I think the power adapter for a reasonable price with a nice long cable would be an excellent start. 15V, 1.2A switching power supplies are cheap in China + wiring it up to the connector for $20-$25, I think you'd have no trouble selling those. As a bonus, if the adapter ALSO could take a 12V car adapter as input and not just 110-220V AC...well that's an easy sell right there!
Thanks!
verkion

Docking
Verkion,
I think using a USB car charger with the USB cable would work, wouldn't it? I haven't tried it though.
Anyway, if anyone gets hold of any info on the docking connector, pls let me know. I'll make it worth it!
Anil
verkion said:
If you can make a bunch of Power Adapters for it...that's be great. I've been trying to find the 40pin connector for a while now.
I don't think people need HDMI out on the cable, b/c that's built-in in the form of a mini-HDMI cable. I think most people would want a way to hook up USB devices to it. A 40pin to USB hub (3-4 ports) would be really nice.
I think the power adapter for a reasonable price with a nice long cable would be an excellent start. 15V, 1.2A switching power supplies are cheap in China + wiring it up to the connector for $20-$25, I think you'd have no trouble selling those. As a bonus, if the adapter ALSO could take a 12V car adapter as input and not just 110-220V AC...well that's an easy sell right there!
Thanks!
verkion
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

nope, standard car chargers are 5v usb spec.... the TF only starts to charge at 11v or so, IIRC.

xjarl said:
I have got the 40pin connector but don't know what can i do with it.. ummm.. I mean, What's the accessories will be hot? A cable integrated HDMI,USB3.0 and WLAN? Dose TF101 has a WLAN? I haven't open my TF to see..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you divulge your source for the connector?? I can make a GRIP of specialized cables connectors and docks. I'll post all tech info on comm from the 40 pin.

I have found a 40 pin connector but can't post a link as a new member. I think the offset between the two rows of pins is incorrect but may help with someone else finding the correct one. I'll contact the admin to see if I can post the link.
You may be able to find it from web 'alwaysinnovating' wiki/index.php/40-pin_connector

davebuk said:
I have found a 40 pin connector but can't post a link as a new member. I think the offset between the two rows of pins is incorrect but may help with someone else finding the correct one. I'll contact the admin to see if I can post the link.
You may be able to find it from web 'alwaysinnovating' wiki/index.php/40-pin_connector
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here's the link you're trying to share:
http://www.alwaysinnovating.com/wiki/index.php/40-pin_connector
(note: I've done nothing to confirm whether this is the right connector or in any way related to it myself, I'm just sharing the link to save somebody else the hassle of googling.)

That 40 pin connector doesn't have +15V lines. Hence the electrical layout might be a bit different than what's listed.

Thanks for posting the link. As AnTrans said, there is a good chance the pin out assignment listed on that site is NOT what the Asus uses but may point towards finding the correct connector.

AnTrans said:
That 40 pin connector doesn't have +15V lines. Hence the electrical layout might be a bit different than what's listed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The important part is it looks like he found the connector itself, and it seems to be available from some major US distributors. The rest is a matter of reverse engineering

pokey9000 said:
The important part is it looks like he found the connector itself, and it seems to be available from some major US distributors. The rest is a matter of reverse engineering
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wrong. Simply wrong.

Bob Smith42 said:
Wrong. Simply wrong.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh? Care to explain?

pokey9000 said:
Oh? Care to explain?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Start with this:
The connector on the TF, the bit that slides into the proprietary port, measures:
3.0mm x 18.5mm on outer dimensions.

Bob Smith42 said:
Start with this:
The connector on the TF, the bit that slides into the proprietary port, measures:
3.0mm x 18.5mm on outer dimensions.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm, how about this then? Too bad it has a 9 week lead time.

pokey9000 said:
Hmm, how about this then? Too bad it has a 9 week lead time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Edited: Yes you are right.
From the data sheet, also 2129261-1 will fit. The 3.3mm thick will fit into a receptacle that is 3.8mm thick. I think the pins are okay (might be wrong).
In *addition* to your choice, try this:
Mouser Part #: 571-2129261-1
Manufacturer Part #:
2129261-1
Manufacturer:
TE Connectivity
Description: I/O Connectors 40P PLUG, CRADLE MNT CHAMP DOCKING
===
UPDATE:
I edited my wrong post to reflect the correct information and reduce confusion. Great job pokey9000.

Bob Smith42 said:
No.
From the data sheet, only 2129261-1 will fit. The 3.3mm thick will fit, but *not* the 3.8mm thick. Also, I can not see the pins alignment, which could be wrong.
For outer dimensions (pins might be wrong), try this:
Mouser Part #: 571-2129261-1
Manufacturer Part #:
2129261-1
Manufacturer:
TE Connectivity
Description: I/O Connectors 40P PLUG, CRADLE MNT CHAMP DOCKING
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
See the mfr's page here , particularly the "View Product Drawing" link. The dimensions of the plug are (excl. the latches) 18.5 x 3.1 x 7mm (7mm being the minimum start of the overmold). I don't have calipers on me right now, but the pins are on .3mm staggered centers, so the distance from an edge of pin 1 to the same edge of pin 40 is 11.7mm. I still think this looks like a winner.

pokey9000 said:
See the mfr's page here , particularly the "View Product Drawing" link. The dimensions of the plug are (excl. the latches) 18.5 x 3.1 x 7mm (7mm being the minimum start of the overmold). I don't have calipers on me right now, but the pins are on .3mm staggered centers, so the distance from an edge of pin 1 to the same edge of pin 40 is 11.7mm. I still think this looks like a winner.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay, I agree with you. I was wrong, looking at 3.8mm on the receptacle.
Both your part and my part are the correct outer dimensions. The differences only depend on what type of mount - board or cable.
Looking inside my ASUS cable with mag-glass the pins are staggered.

[Q] Asus Transformer full size USB Challenge

One of the very few downsides to the Asus transformer is the lack of a full-sized USB port on the tablet itself. You can always purchase a dock and Asus has said that they will be selling a miniUSB >USB dongle. However, neither of these solutions is really the same as having a slot within the tablet.
I figured the folks at XDA wouldn't stand for this!
Here is my challenge. Add a full USB slot to the tablet and post instructions.
Here is how I could see this going down:
1) Someone with more hardware know-how, open up your transformer and find a physical spot in which one could place a full female USB connector with a small mounting bracket.
I haven't seen a hardware teardown yet probably due to lack of stock.
2) Figure out wiring from a full USB slot to controller. Perhaps directly splicing with the microUSB cables?
3) Either do it yourself or write up your findings and let the community try.
I think with a small dremmel tool and some pieces from radioshack we could make a pretty good mod.
What do you guys think?

I'd be interested to see someone do this, but I think 99.99% of the population would be too afraid to take a dremel to their TF considering it is about 6 mm in width at the edges. It would have to be a pretty tiny dremel. That's not considering the risk of opening it up. Then, finding the right location to solder the USB port to on the circuit board.
I think I'll wait for the dongle

The easiest would be a dock connector to USB dongle. That way, it doesn't require opening anything, just scoping the dock and how that works.

Just wait for the official solution that's my advice

For what it's worth, I bought a usb 3.0 F-F adaptor and attached it to the power cable. I then plugged in a usb memory stick. There was some activity and drivers were loaded on the Transformer, but the memory stick was not recognized.
Anyone else have any luck with this?

[Q] USB host mode, specifically via Nebtop

So, I purchases a USB OTG cable in an attempt to try and expand the functionality of Webtop while using Nebtop. I've been unable to get any response from the phone when I plug in this cable. I've tried my wireless Logitech mouse and keyboard that worked off the bat with my TF101 using the Unifying remote they came with as well as an external TB drive.
Has anyone else had any experience with this? It seems logical that the phone supports host mode since the actual dock has 3 full sized USB ports.
All the information pertaining to this sort of thing I've come up with seems extremely phone specific but if there's a simple solution I'm missing thanks all the more.

ri4naire said:
So, I purchases a USB OTG cable in an attempt to try and expand the functionality of Webtop while using Nebtop. I've been unable to get any response from the phone when I plug in this cable. I've tried my wireless Logitech mouse and keyboard that worked off the bat with my TF101 using the Unifying remote they came with as well as an external TB drive.
Has anyone else had any experience with this? It seems logical that the phone supports host mode since the actual dock has 3 full sized USB ports.
All the information pertaining to this sort of thing I've come up with seems extremely phone specific but if there's a simple solution I'm missing thanks all the more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The problem actually lies in the usb port of the phone itself. The dock was designed for this purpose, and the dock app handles most that for you, the one thing that the dock is able to do that a straight USB cable can't do, is provide enough "bus" power to use a mouse or even a USB stick directly from the phone. If you want to use a Mouse you will need to get a dock. I got mine directly from wireless.att.com, and it was only $49.00 back in Nov. when I got it. It works VERY well with webtop.
P.S. Motorola is very famous for doing things like this to force you into a dock, or to lock out certain features that everyone really wants to use.

I made my own dock by using a powered usb hub I had sitting around (it was actually the one that came with Rock Band for my Xbox 360). I did have to modify it slightly so that the 1 pin was powered from the 5V (a simple shunt from the 5V inner pin of the power supply solder joint to the solder joint of the 1 pin worked fine--although it might be wise to insert an inline fuse since it also charges your phone while plugged in).
Otherwise, the only other thing needed is coming in the form of your otg adapter that should short the 5 pin (common) with your 4 pin (ID). I did this by cracking open an extra micro usb cable and soldering a wire between the two.
So, my setup was like this:
1. Modified usb cable to short the 4 & 5 pins to let the phone know to go into host
2. Use a female A-female A usb coupler to join the usb cable to the powered hub (I got mine here from Monoprice
3. Get 5V to the 1 pin in the usb hub to provide power to your phone and for whatever is plugged into the hub.
With this, I was easily able to run a usb mouse and a wireless keyboard that had a usb dongle. Paired with a micro hdmi cable to hdmi-dvi adapter, I am able to use my office monitor and the webtop linux. I honestly haven't really used it much yet (if I found it really useful, I probably would have just paid for the dock).
The obvious easy way is to just get the dock. However, I really like being able to do this on my own and since I had this stuff already laying around. Also, the cheap prices from monoprice (I actually made $4 off of the purchase from a PayPal bill-me-later promotion).
So, you should be able to get it to work if you get power to the bus on your usb (but again, it might be safe to pass an appropriate fast-acting fuse, ferrite core, or something to protect from surges). I haven't had issue yet, but I also don't use it often...yet .

It sounds like a bit of yes and a bit of no. The OTG cable I got is microUSB to female full USB, am I going to need to modify this cable as you've described by crossing the 4th and 5th pins?
I'm thinking about ordering this "7 Port USB Squid Hub" since it has the 5v power adapter, do you think it might work?
Just one more question and thanks for all the help but should I not see any response from the phone when I plug in the cable? I read through some of the reviews for cheap cables on Amazon and apparently sometimes they're just useless.

ri4naire said:
It sounds like a bit of yes and a bit of no. The OTG cable I got is microUSB to female full USB, am I going to need to modify this cable as you've described by crossing the 4th and 5th pins?
I'm thinking about ordering this "7 Port USB Squid Hub" since it has the 5v power adapter, do you think it might work?
Just one more question and thanks for all the help but should I not see any response from the phone when I plug in the cable? I read through some of the reviews for cheap cables on Amazon and apparently sometimes they're just useless.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The OTG cable have should work. The OTG cable, to my knowledge, should already have pins 4 & 5 shorted together. I'm not completely certain, but if it's designed as an OTG, it would probably already have that done. If you have an ohmmeter/multimeter, you could try to check (it's hard to isolate the small pins, but you can try). If it's already going to the USB female (type A), you will then be able to directly attach your hub when you get it (without the need of the coupler I had to get).
When I used mine, there was no notification that said "Hey, I'm in USB Host Mode!". However, if you successfully have a mouse attached, you'll see a mouse cursor arrow on your screen.
Have fun with it and if you can't get it to work, let me know and I'll try to explain with even more detail (perhaps with some pretty pictures) of what I did. I more or less went off of what I could glean from reading what others did.

It works great! Also, it is weird to see the mouse on this little a screen, it seems oversized.
I just plugged everything in and it worked off the bat. I'm using just two items from Amazon I got for under 12 bucks (plus, of course, the keyboard and mouse I already had for my computer). I don' think I can post links to the forums yet but the ASINs for the items if people want to do this on the super cheap are as follows:
B0043TBCDS 7 Port USB Squid Hub, a whopping $5.19
B005N55WHI Micro-B USB OTG Cable... $5.99
I chose these because of their Prime eligibility and also for their form factor so as not to cover the HDMI port, I bet it's not impossible to get these even cheaper.
While this isn't technically a replacement for the dock since I had to root the device and I have to press "Load" in Nebtop if I want to go to Webtop I'm extremely pleased with the results.
I also love that all the soft keys are available. The ones I've discovered are that right button on the mouse as well as Esc are Back, the Home key is Home, clicking the wheel as well as Ctrl, Cmd, Alt and a whole slew of others bring up the Menu, but all I can find is F5 for Search.
On another note, while the phone does charge when hooked up, a practical boon, the screen still times out despite having the "Stay awake" feature checked. This is annonying when the phone is on it's side accross the room and I have to squint to see the cursor and swipe it unlocked sideways as well as click back into Mirror Display.

ebay smartdock clone

On my quest to make an adapter to use my Atrix Lapdock with my S4 I already destroyed an mhl adapter, and now I want to try this dock from ebay.
Has anyone had any experience with it?

Let me know, looks nice.
Sent from my GT-I9505 using xda app-developers app

Be careful. I bought one of these on Amazon a while back...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C4CVT7A/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
...and I realize it might not be the same exact thing, but it looks similar in construction.
About 2 weeks after I started using it, it started shorting out and sparking! I was lucky that I was right beside it when it started happening and got my phone out of it before any damage was done. The problem was with the wiring / circuitry in the base of the unit. I threw it away immediately.
So, hopefully your will work a lot better, just be careful.

scott14719 said:
Be careful. I bought one of these on Amazon a while back...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C4CVT7A/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
...and I realize it might not be the same exact thing, but it looks similar in construction.
About 2 weeks after I started using it, it started shorting out and sparking! I was lucky that I was right beside it when it started happening and got my phone out of it before any damage was done. The problem was with the wiring / circuitry in the base of the unit. I threw it away immediately.
So, hopefully your will work a lot better, just be careful.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the info. I usually buy stuff from DX, so I'm quite used to opening and doing a good quality check for every item I buy before using it!

I got the item, it works good and the build quality is good.
BUT, when you connect an external power supply, the power to the usb host port gets disconnected and the usb lines get shorted. So you can use either the USB OR the HDMI. There are 3 relays inside the device; by disabling the top one you can do the 500ms short trick and get the HDMI + USB HOST + CHARGING features, but it takes some effort.

gip_mad said:
I got the item, it works good and the build quality is good.
BUT, when you connect an external power supply, the power to the usb host port gets disconnected and the usb lines get shorted. So you can use either the USB OR the HDMI. There are 3 relays inside the device; by disabling the top one you can do the 500ms short trick and get the HDMI + USB HOST + CHARGING features, but it takes some effort.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you able to use or make a charge only cable (only 5V and ground)? That way the USB data lines should not be affected if the charger shorts the data pins.
Or is the one of the relays shorting the data pins inside the adapter?

Sorry, maybe I didn't explain correctly. The adapter shorts the phone's usb data pins, everything else is untouched. A delay circuit is implemented too, so it looks like they tried to do the 500ms trick but failed miserably so they sold the dock as is.

has anyone got any further with this project? I have an original Samsung smart dock and have now got the hdmi converters but nothing is shown on the lapdock screen. The adaptors and lapdock work fine as I have had it connected to my sky hd box?

Hi, did you try the adapters with a TV? My adapters work well and send a (distorted) image to the lapdock..

Yes I tried them both ways as an output to a tv and also an input to a moniter

looks pretty interesting. huh

Tf300t keyboard dock mod USB connection

Hi all,
I am trying to mod my old tf300t and keyboard dock into a dex dock for my note 9. Im not worried about the tablet portion as i can get a lcd controller for the panel. However ive been soldering and desoldering for the last 3 days. I am trying to leverage the docks kb controller and add a usb connection or modify the dock port into a usb.
I have looked at the various pinouts but cannot get the keyboard working.
I dont care about audio or sd card or the extra usb port.
Any help or pointers would be great.
Here is a mockup of the pinouts i have soldered based on the pinouts i found
Ive been trying to test it on an old s7edge incase i wire something wrong. It detects a regular keyboard but when i try this nothing...if i use the wall charger i see that the dock is charging but still nothing at the dock connector. Ive been trying with a usb 2.0 cable. Connected to the d+ d- vcc ( all 3) and multiple grounds and i pinned the sense pin to ground as well.
I have also tried to open the charge cable and solder the usb to the data pins on that both with and without ground. And use a 5v plug and the original asus plug.
The dock port is basically garbage at this point so if i plan to use that i need to use the 2 20 wire connectors and map the individual wires .

I have managed to get the s7edge to detect that something is connected. However i then resoldered the pins to try more as it wasnt working. So i need to go back to the beginning to try again. I believe my issue was due to the otg aspect of the usb. Im using an adapter for the phone but i also tried to wire the connector the same way. Ill take some pictures of it later if i can get it working

So not sure if anyone is following this thread but i have made progress.
I have totally butchered the original 40 pin connector and now am tapping into the 40 individual wires that connect the main board to the connector pcb. I can get my s7edge to detect that the usb connector is attached but it keeps telling me that a high power usb device is attached and that it needs an external power source.... so today i busted out the multimeter and i believe i connected one of the usb host vcc connections to the other vcc connections so i separated this. I also believe that the s7edge has some usbotg voltage issues so im going to test it with an old macbook pro with windows to see what it picks it up as. When i get some more time i will try to trace the other wires there might be something else needed

Maybe
Nice job, I'm not particularly knowlegdable in electronics but I remember there is a battery portion in the dock? Maybe it causes some error during otg?