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= DIY usb hub for HTC =
== Warning ==
First of all, your using this manual at your own risk, I don't take any responsebilety for your actions.
If you make a mistake you risk blowing up your phone usb port, or even burning out the phone completly.
I have a background in electronics and was age 12 when I did my first hardware mod on a computer.
I knew the risc I was taking when I started this mod, an I accepted it.
The included pictures are just for reference, do not use them as a guide, your board will be different.
If you happen to use the same usb hub, then also use the same connection points.
== Introduction ==
Unlike the Y cable this mod leaves all usb ports available, but it renders the usb hub useless for normal use.
It's gone be purely for use on HTC phones which DO NOT supply power to the usb port, check your phone before you start building.
== The parts ==
For this project we need the following parts.
* 4 port usb hub (this may be a active/powered hub, but those mostly have a to weak powersupply).
* micro usb cable.
* powersupply of 5V and at least 2000mA.
* half a liter of fresh coffee or energy drink.
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== Power ==
A standard usb port of a computer supply's 5V with 500mA, so for a 4 port usb hub we need 4x the current, making the 2000mA.
But as the phone also needs at least 500mA, we need a bit more power, totaling 2500mA, alltho there is some wiggleroom here.
A keyboard/mouse hardly ever need the full 500mA, so we can steal a bit from that.
The powersupply i used gives out 2250mA, and using the above wiggleroom it leaves about 700mA for the phone.
== The internals of the hub ==
When we open the usb hub were gone find something like the next picture.
This is my finished hub so ignore the black and red wires for now.
Look for the green and white cables and imagine the red wire above them and the black under them.
The green and white cables are the data cables.
Cut of the standard usb plug from the micro usb cable, and connect the green and white cables to the same points as the original cable from the hub.
If your hub has a connector instead of a cable, the white cable goes beside the red wire (positive), the green beside the black (negative).
This is visible on the pictures.
If you have any doubt, then skip to the next step and come back after it.
Once you have figured out the powerlines this step will become clear.
== Finding the power lines ==
Originaly the usb cable powers the controller and sends the left over power to the ports, making the hub able to power low power devices like keyboards and mice.
This is why we have the wiggle room on the power supply.
So first we have to locate the power lines on the board as outlined on the next picture.
Red is the positive path, blue the negative path.
Look for the negative path first and you'll find the positive in no time.
An easy trick is to start look at the usb ports.
You'll see that 1 of the 4 pins is connected to the ground of the port, thats the negative pin/track.
the oposite pin of the 4 is the positive (the data pins are the 2 middle pins).
== The power protection ==
Now if you look carefully you can see 2 gaps in the positive path (red collor), those are there because of the protection needed when pluging in the external powersupply.
And the fact that the controller gets power from 2 locations.
They are located in the yellow circles on the next picture.
== Bypasing the power protection ==
But as the phone doesn't supply any power on the usb port, in fact it needs power, were gone have to bypase (easier then removing it) the protection.
This is fairly easy, just connect the points which normaly go to the usb cable which connects the computer to the points of the external powersupply.
The connector on my hub is located right beside the protection diode on the right side of the board.
== Rerouting the power to the phone ==
Next step is to give the phone power in the same way.
To make it easier I used 1 of the usb ports for this.
Safes the hassle to connect 2 cables to the small connection points.
== Putting the hub back together ==
Now we can put the hub back into it's casing.
== The finished project ==
And we end up with a special usb hub for our phone.
Like it was bought this way.
reserved for the battery pack project.
space for rent. lol
FaQ
Known devices to work which do not supply power to the usb port.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
HD2
Known devices to work which do supply power to the usb port (you need to skip the power bypase to the phone on these devices).
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
this list will most likely contain tablets.
Known devices which do not work at all.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q: I can not find the power path or protection on my hub.
A: Post a high detail closeup of the print of the hub so we can help and draw the path on the photo for you, like in the manual.
But consider the fact that you are getting into a very risky situation, we could be wrong due to a bad picture and you could interpret the photo we draw in a bad way.
I highly recomment that you get help from someone more skilled.
Q: My phone does supply power to the usb port.
A: Do not attach the power cables from the phone usb to the hub, leave it all to the external powersupply.
But remember to tape/isolate the cables to avoid shortings.
Q: I really want to have a hub like this but i'm not capable of building 1.
A: as i got only 4 requests by pm the demand seems to be very little.
but feel free to try and convince me by pm, but pls make it at least 5 hub's.
plopper
Thx for the idea and the detailed information.
Just bought a hub today and will try it within the next days.
But one question:
Is it neccessary to change the powercables to the phone?
I'm not sure, but wouldn't it work only with the 'bypass protection' wires?
With this bypass the old connection points are on the same power level as the new ones? Do I miss something?
regards and thx again
mf_1
mf_1 said:
Thx for the idea and the detailed information.
Just bought a hub today and will try it within the next days.
But one question:
Is it neccessary to change the powercables to the phone?
I'm not sure, but wouldn't it work only with the 'bypass protection' wires?
With this bypass the old connection points are on the same power level as the new ones? Do I miss something?
regards and thx again
mf_1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the protection bypase is indeed enough, but that forces you to stick 2 cables to the small connection points of the original usb cable.
the connections on the usb port are free and mostly they don't even cut off the leads, so you end up with more surface area, resulting in a stronger connection.
on my hub the usb ports are actualy holding the print on it's place, and by using the same length on all the leads (data and power) from the usb cable, and using the usb ports to connect the power makes it less likely that some jerking on the cable breaks/damages the print, also since i picked the 1 which was furthest away.
doesn't change anything on the workings but it's a safer idea.
good luck and have fun building.
plopper
Works great.
I've bought a very small hub and it wasn't easy to find the connection point (only needed the +5V connection), but thx to your description everything works fine.
With ubuntu it was plug & play, now I'm trying WM and android.
regards
mf_1
mf_1 said:
Works great.
I've bought a very small hub and it wasn't easy to find the connection point (only needed the +5V connection), but thx to your description everything works fine.
With ubuntu it was plug & play, now I'm trying WM and android.
regards
mf_1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
updated the manual a bit, inserted a trick to find them quicker.
on android you might have to enable the usb host mode in the kernel (like ubuntu's usb_host kernel).
not sure tho, pls inform me if this is true.
we tested it on a android tablet in a shop and that worked out of the box.
plopper
To make it a little easier: gnd should be the same on both +5 areas, so you only need to make 1 connection.
My Hub is a LogiLink USB 2.0 4 Port HUB (UA0003), a very small hub with a 2,0A Power Supply (in Germany available at Conrad electronics for 10€).
Your hint regarding Androids seems to be right, unfortunaly I'm not able to activate it by myself. Maybe one of the developers will built a version sometimes.
Do you have drivers for WM 6.5?
I used Zenos driver without success so far.
Regards
mf_1
mf_1 said:
To make it a little easier: gnd should be the same on both +5 areas, so you only need to make 1 connection.
My Hub is a LogiLink USB 2.0 4 Port HUB (UA0003), a very small hub with a 2,0A Power Supply (in Germany available at Conrad electronics for 10€).
Your hint regarding Androids seems to be right, unfortunaly I'm not able to activate it by myself. Maybe one of the developers will built a version sometimes.
Do you have drivers for WM 6.5?
I used Zenos driver without success so far.
Regards
mf_1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
based on our use of the hub you are indeed right, both gnd's should be the same and can be made with 1 connection.
but if the gnd's in both area's are connected by default, then you found a very bad hub.
connection the psu wrongly on a hub like that can have very bad results, smoke out of the computer.
but for our mod. they are perfect, safes a bit of work.
i haven't found any working wince drivers so far.
i'll contact some of the android cooks if they are willing to help with a test.
plopper
Technical opinion on hub choice
Can I use hub like in picture ? have one lying around doing nothing.
No external power supply on hub, but could buy 2.25A power adaptor & wire it to power tracks.
Could use standard built in usb lead with micro USB adaptor plug ?
Want to keep size & weight to minimum as travel a lot.
Could this replace standard HTC charger(1 less plug to carry) or is full charging via a 2A+ power adapter risky !
Mister B said:
Can I use hub like in picture ? have one lying around doing nothing.
No external power supply on hub, but could buy 2.25A power adaptor & wire it to power tracks.
Could use standard built in usb lead with micro USB adaptor plug ?
Want to keep size & weight to minimum as travel a lot.
Could this replace standard HTC charger(1 less plug to carry) or is full charging via a 2A+ power adapter risky !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
any hub can be used, just some need more or less modifications then others (due to bad design).
to be sure i would need a high resolution picture of the board.
the hd2 has multiple charging mode's.
the standard htc charger is 1 amp, but this doesn't mean it always pushed out that 1 amp.
it can deliver up to 1 amp, the same goes for the external psu you mentioned, just now we have a max of 2.25 amps..
if you worry i suggest you try and keep a close eye on the temperature of the battery.
above 60 celcius the risk of it exploding appears.
personaly i didn't feel a difference in heat on charging on 1 or 2 amps.
another option would be to drain the extra power by hooking up something like an external hdd, those need 1 amp (0.5 amps per usb port, 2 are used on these devices).
plopper
thanks for reply.
What constitutes as bad design for our intended modification ?
Is it not more simple to wire a non external powered hub as it will have no diode circiut to bridge, I'm thinking would only need to tap into power line for external 2A supply & with a micro USB adaptor on original recoil lead it would fit & feed HD2 correctly.
Will strip hub tomorrow if got time, is my rough summary sounding practical from your experience ?
Mister B said:
thanks for reply.
What constitutes as bad design for our intended modification ?
Is it not more simple to wire a non external powered hub as it will have no diode circiut to bridge, I'm thinking would only need to tap into power line for external 2A supply & with a micro USB adaptor on original recoil lead it would fit & feed HD2 correctly.
Will strip hub tomorrow if got time, is my rough summary sounding practical from your experience ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
with our intended modification the world turns around.
the best designed hub becomes the worst.
every protection they add, we have to cancel out.
i had the same idea like you, get a non powered hub and connect a psu to it.
but when i unpacked it the power socket appeared.
i wouldn't be surprised if you found the socket painted on the top side of the print and the diodes replaced for bridges.
means less work, hookup 1 random usb port to the psu, replace the plug and done.
plopper
hey this is a great idea, but unfortunately for the electrically illiterate it's a bit over our heads. i'd really like to tackle this but im going to have to learn some of the basics first. is there any chance that someone who has made one of these could upload a tutorial vid on youtube? im sure im not the only would who would appreciate it.
non soldered way?
I have bought a 4 way USB hub which has a usb socket on its input lead. This can be plugged into your PC or into a usb mains charger or usb car charger.
If the input lead is plugged into one of the four output sockets and the lead is cut open and the red and black wires are exposed, a 2A 5v charger can be connected to these wires by twisting together and taping.
This then powers both sides of the hub with 2A supply and by-passes the protection.
It does sacrifice 1 output socket but HD2 +keyboard+mouse= happy Ubuntu
Will this work?
Edit; I have posted a Thread in HD2 Ubuntu Q&A http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1130905 to try for more feedback.
If it does work then thanks should go to Plopper for his hard work in this and on other Fora. (And apologies for any lost business!)
DOH!
I must have read this thread quite a few times, but I have only just understood what plopper and Mister B were saying in their last posts.
There is no protection in unpowered usb hubs, so no need to bypass it!
I have checked this and it works.
No wonder there have been no replies!
Robbie P said:
I have bought a 4 way USB hub which has a usb socket on its input lead. This can be plugged into your PC or into a usb mains charger or usb car charger.
If the input lead is plugged into one of the four output sockets and the lead is cut open and the red and black wires are exposed, a 2A 5v charger can be connected to these wires by twisting together and taping.
This then powers both sides of the hub with 2A supply and by-passes the protection.
It does sacrifice 1 output socket but HD2 +keyboard+mouse= happy Ubuntu
Will this work?
Edit; I have posted a Thread in HD2 Ubuntu Q&A http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1130905 to try for more feedback.
If it does work then thanks should go to Plopper for his hard work in this and on other Fora. (And apologies for any lost business!)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
what you made here is a Y cable.
but i advise that you do solder the wires, this to avoid problems due to the bad contacts.
problems like sparks can do nasty things to any electrical device.
apologies accepted gracefully.
so far 4 have requested a hub, and 1 of those managed to build 1 himself.
thats not enough sadly.
beside that i'm working about 60 hours per week on average, so not much spare time left.
plopper
Thanks Plopper,
you may get more business now that DFT and Cotulla have released USB host for WM6.5
Good to see you back
powered hub for nexus 12v source
Can I pay you to make me a 4 port hub that uses a 12 volt source? I'm working on an auto project integrating a a nexus 7 into my car stereo
plopper said:
Known devices to work which do not supply power to the usb port.
------------------------------------------------ -------------------------------------------------
HD2
Known devices to work which do supply power to the usb port (you need to skip the power bypase to the phone on these devices).
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
this list will most likely contain tablets.
Known devices which do not work at all.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q: I can not find the power path or protection on my hub.
A: Post a high detail closeup of the print of the hub so we can help and draw the path on the photo for you, like in the manual.
But consider the fact that you are getting into a very risky situation, we could be wrong due to a bad picture and you could interpret the photo we draw in a bad way.
I highly recomment that you get help from someone more skilled.
Q: My phone does supply power to the usb port.
A: Do not attach the power cables from the phone usb to the hub, leave it all to the external powersupply.
But remember to tape/isolate the cables to avoid shortings.
Q: I really want to have a hub like this but i'm not capable of building 1.
A: If there is enough demand i'll build a stack of them.
I have no idea how to handle the posting/shipping of this, so if you can help me on this, then don't hesitate to send me a pm.
For now i still won't build any untill i have it all figured out.
Check back here in a couple day's for more info.
Q: When are you gone start building them?
A: Send me a pm where you request for a hub, and I'll inform you on the details.
plopper
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
cms3717 said:
Can I pay you to make me a 4 port hub that uses a 12 volt source? I'm working on an auto project integrating a a nexus 7 into my car stereo
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do it as described in the thread but use the internal power adaptor board of a quality 2A plus rated 12v cigarette to usb charge adaptor to power the hub.
Hey guys, I just got my Surface Pro yesterday to replace my old HP Pavilion laptop which was really slow and has its fair share of problems. The one gripe I have with the Surface Pro is its lack of ports.
I want to be able to plug in a mouse and at least on USB drive but a singular USB 3.0 port just isn't going to cut it. So my question is, does anyone have an idea or know of anything that will allow me to plug in both a mouse and a usb stick? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
p.s I am aware of the docking station but its price point is a bit ridiculous. I just want a cheap alternative that won't detract from the design too much as there is a case but it's added size is very unreasonable.
The device you are looking for is incredibly common and so common that you can walk into walmart and have a whole selection of them available. USB Hub. Surprised you havent come across one before.
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Depending on the number of ports and whether it is mains or bus powered they can be pretty cheap.
SixSixSevenSeven said:
The device you are looking for is incredibly common and so common that you can walk into walmart and have a whole selection of them available. USB Hub. Surprised you havent come across one before.
Depending on the number of ports and whether it is mains or bus powered they can be pretty cheap.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks heaps for the reply. I was actually thinking of these but I wasn't sure if they would work correctly. I'm not very familiar with USB 3.0 and what it can and can't do. I just need a USB hub that has a USB 3.0 upstream and at least 2 USB 2.0 downstreams so I can still plug in my mouse and hardrive and all those other things that have a USB 2.0 upstream. I was looking at these in particular and was wondering if they were 4 USB 3.0 ports or if it was a 3.0 male connector and 4 USB 2.0 female connectors.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4-Port-U...Laptop_Accessories&hash=item4ac5d3e8e3&_uhb=1
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/m-Speed-...Laptop_Accessories&hash=item51b73b7190&_uhb=1
Any help would be greatly appreciated. If you are able to link me to a cheap one then that would be awesome
Both of the devices you linked claim to be USB3.0 downstream, so would indeed convert 1 USB3.0 slot on the surface to 4 USB3.0 slots, in theory anyway.
Of course in reality, you are sharing 1 ports bandwidth among 4, but for a mouse and a memory stick this is not a problem at all. I've run mouse, keyboard, xbox 360 controller and an external hard drive from a USB2.0 hub without issue, you get the massively faster USB3.0
SixSixSevenSeven said:
Both of the devices you linked claim to be USB3.0 downstream, so would indeed convert 1 USB3.0 slot on the surface to 4 USB3.0 slots, in theory anyway.
Of course in reality, you are sharing 1 ports bandwidth among 4, but for a mouse and a memory stick this is not a problem at all. I've run mouse, keyboard, xbox 360 controller and an external hard drive from a USB2.0 hub without issue, you get the massively faster USB3.0
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks heaps for that. I just realised that I can plug in a USB 2.0 into the 3.0 port. Sorry for sounding like an idiot but it's just my first device with a 3.0 port.
So now I guess my only question would be whether or not having a switch on each port would make a difference vs no switch?
boss. said:
So now I guess my only question would be whether or not having a switch on each port would make a difference vs no switch?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
not particularly, if it is a hub with switched ports you could save some battery but alot of hubs are autoswitching anyway and the difference isnt significant.
I use a bluetooth mouse with my surface pro. It connects directly to the bluetooth in the Surface, without anything plugged into the usb port. I find this very convenient and it leaves the usb port open for whatever else. I use the Microsoft bluetooth mouse 5000.
Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk
I have a USB3 hub, a inateck round hub, makes for easy plugging in various items and is powered, so not using battery up. Jim
Thanks heaps for the responses guys.
I was thinking of using one of the powered ones or the ones with switches so extra battery consumption is kept to a minimum. I have a bluetooth gaming mouse that i'm going to use but will end up getting a USB hub just so I can still have a memory stick plugged in if I need it.
I find that *in most cases* the load on the tablet battery is fairly low and doesnt warrant the extra fuss of a powered USB hub versus a bus powered hub. However, if you do decide to go with a self powered one, find that uses a usb style connector instead of a proprietary power connector. Then you can just use a regular usb cable to power the hub off of the surface's usb charging port on the power cord "brick". That eliminates the need to carry two power supplies with you.
Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk
The main advantage of a powered (vs. host-powered) hub isn't the battery life impact, but rather the limit on how much energy the host port can provide. Things like keyboards take almost nothing. Things like mice take a bit, but not too much. Things like external HDDs take a lot. Things like charging a phone or other device may take all the power the port can provide. Using a powered hub lets you connect several such devices (for example, your phone and your hard disk, in addition to your mouse and keyboard) without worrying that there won't be enough power for them.
Agreed. Its a question of amperage. Anything I connect to my Surface Pro has minimal power draw, such as a card reader or usb drive. If Im going to charge my phone (which draqs 2amps) I just connect it to handy chargung port on the AC adapter. All my other accessories (mouse and gps antenna) are bluetooth so they are not part of the equation. Im not debating anything above, but just offering the OP that you should consider your power needs and then you can decide if you need a powered hub or not.
Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
Officially you can draw 1.2A from a usb3 socket, reality is that you probably won't from my the surface. Mouse, keyboard and thumbdrive combined should be under 0.1A, 0.2 at the most. Not a massive impact on battery so I wouldn't be concerned.
Someone asked help on our local forum about this and I thought it might also be of help here, so here goes my share.
If you are like me who wants to carry only a small cable for charging and data transfers, you'll find it hard to get your hands on a good micro USB charging/data cable. Buying micro USB charging/data cable for Samsung is tricky since the wiring can be different from the normal USB cable. There should be 5 pins on the micro end, but sometimes there are just 4. But Samsung cable uses only 4 pins that might have been rewired. I'm not sure whether only Samsung does this or the same can be said of the other brands. There are also micro USB cables being sold that does only charging and no data function, and vice versa.
I've grown tired of searching for a cheapo charging/data cable that doesn't deliver the function, so what I did was I bought micro USB to USB adapters instead and bought a normal female-to-male usb cable extender just in case the fragile cable wires get broken again they can be easily replaced. They get the job done. You can also use the other gender adapter and cable combo but using the same combo that I use enables you to charge and transfer data with just the adapter and without the cable in case the fragile cable gets damaged.
They charge the phone as fast as what the USB power brick provides and what the phone can accept at the same time. :victory:
This thread was opened with the intention to help others to easily find an almost guaranteed working data/charging cable combo because not everyone has access to a cheap branded cable. (And sometimes even a branded cable does not guarantee both functions). This is a quicker guaranteed solution for those buying micro USB cable that has no way to test the cable they are purchasing, mostly those buying online or those buying impulsively.
The logic behind the "almost guaranteed working data/charging cable combo" is that unlike micro USB cable, an extension cable guarantees that every pin has its own wire with no modifications, that's why it is called an extension cable. The micro USB adapter, guarantees the full conversion from micro USB to USB interface to have all pins connected properly, that's why it is called adapter/converter.
So, if you do not like the idea of the extended length that is protruding out of your micro USB slot, this thread is not for you and you are not obliged to use or try the setup in any way. The solution provided here is not perfect but a fully functional solution.
I hope this can help someone.
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No offense, but that is a seriously stupid idea. Do you have any idea the amount of leverage that contraption will put on the μUSB port? Hit that wrong or yank it too far and it will snap the port right off the board.
There is absolutely nothing special about any Samsung charger or cable. They use standard, straight-through A-B cables just like every other phone. The chargers themselves conform to industry standards, whereas + and - are on pins 1 and 4, and the data pins are tied together in order to trigger the phone into high current charge mode. The "B" end of a mini/micro USB does have 5 pins - the extra pin is for an ID resistor (referenced to ground), so the phone can identify when it has been inserted into a desk or car dock. There is no corresponding pin on the "A" end, and the lack of an ID resistor or the physical pin will have absolutely no effect on charging.
Taz420nj said:
No offense, but that is a seriously stupid idea. Do you have any idea the amount of leverage that contraption will put on the μUSB port? Hit that wrong or yank it too far and it will snap the port right off the board..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The same goes for the charging flap. Anything that is applied too much force will break. I've been using it for almost a month now and everything is fine. It's just an alternative, maybe a short-term substitute for the oem usb cable if you want.
Taz420nj said:
There is absolutely nothing special about any Samsung charger or cable. They use standard, straight-through A-B cables just like every other phone. The chargers themselves conform to industry standards, whereas + and - are on pins 1 and 4, and the data pins are tied together in order to trigger the phone into high current charge mode. The "B" end of a mini/micro USB does have 5 pins - the extra pin is for an ID resistor (referenced to ground), so the phone can identify when it has been inserted into a desk or car dock. There is no corresponding pin on the "A" end, and the lack of an ID resistor or the physical pin will have absolutely no effect on charging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And how would you explain the slow charging by other micro usb cables then when using the Samsung-bundled power brick? The usb cables work properly with other devices, other than Samsung. I have plenty of them, only 1 other cable works properly.
http://forums.androidcentral.com/samsung-galaxy-s4-accessories/274965-samsung-s4s-micro-usb-standard-usb-cable-2.html
And no, Samsung bundles 4-pin cables. So the phone can't identify when it has been inserted into a desk or car dock?
I've never had any trouble with generic charging cables on any of my Samsung Galaxy phones. That adaptor looks useful for plugging in a memory stick though. Lol
Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
My Kindle USB charger cable doesn't work for my S5. It just doesn't fit but all my other charges cables from my S3, Nexus 7 and of course my S5 cable work. A bit strange but I guess it is the problem of the Kindle cable? BTW the Kindle one works on my S5...
jopat said:
The same goes for the charging flap. Anything that is applied too much force will break. I've been using it for almost a month now and everything is fine. It's just an alternative, maybe a short-term substitute for the oem usb cable if you want.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Of course anything can be broken given enough force. But it takes far less force to break something when you have effectively quadrupled the length of the lever. The stock cable's plug is 1/2" long. That contraption is easily 2" long. That's the same reason you don't use a one-piece solid adapter to plug 1/4" headphones into the 1/8" jack on your phone. It's 6th grade science.
And how would you explain the slow charging by other micro usb cables then when using the Samsung-bundled power brick? The usb cables work properly with other devices, other than Samsung. I have plenty of them, only 1 other cable works properly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Considering you are the only one to have this "problem", Mod Edit – Some content removed . USB is USB. That's the entire point of adhering to standards. There are no "special" or "rewired" cables for Samsung, nor does any current Samsung device (with the exception of the Tab2 10.1) require any proprietary cable or charger. If a device's connectors do not adhere to the published USB standards, then the USB name and logo can not be used under penalty of law. A company can use the technology in a non-standard configuration, but it must have a distinctly different connector and can not use the USB marks.
And no, Samsung bundles 4-pin cables. So the phone can't identify when it has been inserted into a desk or car dock?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
WTF are you talking about? The standard "A" side of ANY USB cable only has 4 pins. There is no such thing as a 5 pin standard "A". The μUSB JACK on the phone has all 5 pins (well, technically 10, since it is USB3.0, but the extras aren't pertinent). μUSB "B" end of a CABLE does not use the ID pin (pin 4), because it does not need to - so whether or not it is physically present in the plug end is moot, because even if it is there, it's not connected to anything. The only thing the ID pin is used for is for situations where the phone needs to know when a certain device is connected. If the ID pin is connected straight to ground, the phone knows that an OTG adapter is plugged in and it puts itself into host mode. If it sees a certain resistance to ground, it puts itself into either car mode or dock mode depending on what resistance it sees.
And for the record, most of the posters commenting in that thread you linked to over at AC are retards. Especially the OP, who claims to "know for certain" that the S3 uses a connection with reversed pins. Because just like EVERY OTHER PHONE WITH A μUSB PORT, the S3's jack follows the USB standard pinout.
---------- Post added at 12:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:48 PM ----------
AMoosa said:
I've never had any trouble with generic charging cables on any of my Samsung Galaxy phones. That adaptor looks useful for plugging in a memory stick though. Lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It won't work, because it's not an actual OTG adapter. It doesn't have the ID pin tied to ground in order to put the phone into host mode.
This made me LOL
But yes any A to Micro USB cable will work. However, if you use the provided cable that Samsung gives you it will charge quicker by using the extra USB3.0 plug.
But, my S4 charges just as fast as the standard OEM cable they provided when using my Galaxy S2 or any other quality USB A to Micro USB wire. This however is not true when using junk/cheap USB cables irregardless the USB plug ends. The wire quality is usually pants compared to other brands. Some of the cheap USB wires will even show a resistance on an ohms meter.
In the end, the OP is making a very complicated USB plug for their phone Just buy a quality USB cable from walmart ebay bestbuy etc
elesbb said:
But yes any A to Micro USB cable will work. However, if you use the provided cable that Samsung gives you it will charge quicker by using the extra USB3.0 plug.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, but that's wrong*. The 3.0 plug only adds extra data pins. Power still runs through pins 1 and 5. It will charge faster if you use the provided CHARGER - because that outputs two amps, versus the 3/4 to one amp output by older/generic chargers. The S2/S3 came with one amp cube chargers, the S4/S5 came with a two amp. The ones you find at gas stations are generally 750mA to one amp. But it does not matter if you use a 2.0 or 3.0 cable to get that charge rate, because it is dependent on the charger, not the cable..
[* the 3.0 standard does call for higher power capability when connected to a computer port - the device can negotiate up to 900mA from the host while simultaneously transmitting data (USB2.0 specifies up to 500mA). However this is still lower than the power that is available from the supplied charger.]
As far as sourcing cables, you absolutely can't go wrong with Monoprice. They have the high quality cables with the glossy, hard plastic plug grips (just like what comes with Apple and high end Samsung products) for $3..
Taz420nj said:
LOL I just noticed that
RETARD changed the pics in the OP of which adapter and cable he kludged together - I guess in an attempt to make it look less idiotic.. However it's still stupid, because YOU CAN USE ANY A-TO-MICRO-B CABLE IN ANY LENGTH.
In case anyone's interested, this is what he had originally posted..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LoL
Those are not the pics I posted, you just posted your own pics. You're always trying too hard. :silly:
But, yes, I changed the pics because the pics are the opposite gender from what I have indicated that I bought. Nonetheless, they are the objects indicated as vice versa, which failed to register in the pea-size object inside that large cranium of yours.
so what I did was I bought micro USB to USB adapters instead and bought a normal female-to-male usb cable extender just in case the fragile cable wires get broken again they can be easily replaced. They get the job done. You can also use the other gender adapter and cable combo but using the same combo that I use enables you to charge and transfer data with just the adapter and without the cable in case the fragile cable gets damaged.
Taz420nj said:
I actually don't need to back up my "claim" (which it's not actually a "claim", it's a well-documented, globally recognized industry standard) - because you're posting all the evidence for me. You're just too stupid to realize it. Now please. After you impale your crotch on that rusty gate (you should do it multiple times just to be sure), go eat some kindergarten paste and play hopscotch with the rest of the retards.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's because you can't, in any way. First, you don't have that capacity. Second, those " well-documented, globally recognized industry standard" is not for the "USB" that you re referring to, therefore they don't exist. "USB" is not the whole device or cable itself, but the receptacle & plug and how they will transmit power and data. They don't specify how the device should deliver them. In fact, you can attach another device in the cable between the USB ends.
Taz420nj said:
USB is an INDUSTRY STANDARD. That means in order for a manufacturer to be allowed to call a device "USB Certified", the manufacturer MUST ADHERE TO THE STANDARD'S POSTED SPECIFICATIONS. It does not matter whether the manufacturer chose to use a standard, mini, or micro USB port. It also does not matter if the manufacturer uses a dual-purpose port (such as a USB/eSATA hybrid port on a laptop) or proprietary port (such as Samsung's 11 pin Micro USB) - provided that the port is BACKWARDS COMPATIBLE (there's that obscure word again) - meaning that still adheres to the posted specifications for pinouts and connector dimensions for the USB standard.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll say it once again, the USB standard is for the connectors. Anything beyond the connectors and the immediate wires connecting on the pins are not covered by the standard that you claim.
So, just for everyone's information, and since I am already tired of your continued spawning of nonsense and making others ignorant as you, I will explain everything in detail in layman's term. Although, I doubt that eenie weenie pea-size object in your cranium can comprehend them. But nonetheless, I will have maximum tolerance for the handicapped in this thread. Be sure not to post any blabbering anymore, because your ignorance is being broadcasted worldwide.
USB is a plug & socket standard, just like your power plug and power sockets. They have their own standards set by the governing bodies to ensure universality among electronic devices to ensure that they fit and function. Like the power plug, the USB has + and - wires, but with added wires for data transfer. The standard refers to the physical dimensions and positions of the plug and function of the pins, as well as the code classes, but anything beyond that other than the voltage are not covered by the usb standard. If they were also included in the same standard, there won't be innovation. It will be dictating something like a power plug can only be attached to an electric fan and cannot be used elsewhere. The wires inside are also not obliged by the standard to be present. Although there are 4 pins, they are not required to be all used and attached electric wires into. This is the reason why you can't say that all USB cables are the same and will function the same, and that especially applies to micro USB cables. They look the same but you will not know the difference until you use them or slice them open.
Taz420nj said:
However it's still stupid, because YOU CAN USE ANY A-TO-MICRO-B CABLE IN ANY LENGTH.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For your statement that you keep on insisting, your tribe was obviously left out by civilization. For charging/data cable, which this thread aims to give alternative to, you need the correct micro USB cable, using just any micro USB cable that you come across won't guarantee that it will supply power for charging and do data transfer.
Regarding length, you cannot use just ANY LENGTH because the signal weakens after a certain length. You will need to attach a booster to maintain that transfer speed longer than that length.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB#Cabling
The USB 1.1 Standard specifies that a standard cable can have a maximum length of 5 meters with devices operating at Full Speed (12 Mbit/s), and a maximum length of 3 meters with devices operating at Low Speed (1.5 Mbit/s).
USB 2.0 provides for a maximum cable length of 5 meters for devices running at Hi Speed (480 Mbit/s). The primary reason for this limit is the maximum allowed round-trip delay of about 1.5 μs. If USB host commands are unanswered by the USB device within the allowed time, the host considers the command lost. When adding USB device response time, delays from the maximum number of hubs added to the delays from connecting cables, the maximum acceptable delay per cable amounts to 26 ns. The USB 2.0 specification requires that cable delay be less than 5.2 ns per meter (192 000 km/s, which is close to the maximum achievable transmission speed for standard copper wire).
The USB 3.0 standard does not directly specify a maximum cable length, requiring only that all cables meet an electrical specification: for copper cabling with AWG 26 wires the maximum practical length is 3 meters (9.8 ft).
This is, again, straight from wiki:
To reliably enable a charge-only feature, modern USB accessory peripherals now include charging cables that provide power connections to the host port but no data connections, and both home and vehicle charging docks are available that supply power from a converter device and do not include a host device and data pins, allowing any capable USB device to charge or operate from a standard USB cable.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB#Connector_types
This is particularly evident in most micro USB cables bundled with powerbanks. The powerbank requires only to supply power and it doesn't need data transfer. So, it is more logical to bundle data-less cable so that the material acquisition cost could be lowered. The opposite can said about older cellphones that are bundled with proprietary charging cables that have micro USB slots for data transfer. Most of their bundled USB cables do not have charging capabilities, although some can still be charged when plugged into the computer.
And also, this proves that USB cables do not provide the same current or amperage. And also proves that not all micro USB cables will charge your device at full speed due to different resistance which the caveman has still failed to answer. The OP provided visuals, so I'm hoping the caveman can at least recognize them. This is a factual data and not some blabbering blah-blah-blah from someone obviously left out by time.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2451375
vectron said:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This thread was opened with the intention to help others to easily find an almost guaranteed working data/charging cable combo alternative because not everyone has access to a cheap branded cable. (And sometimes even a branded cable does not guarantee both functions). This is a quicker guaranteed solution for those buying micro USB cable that has no way to test the cable they are purchasing, mostly those buying online or those buying impulsively.
The logic behind the "almost guaranteed working data/charging cable combo" is that unlike micro USB cable, an extension cable guarantees that every pin has its own wire with no modifications, that's why it is called an extension cable. The micro USB adapter, guarantees the full conversion from micro USB to USB interface to have all pins connected properly, that's why it is called adapter/converter.
So, if you do not like the idea of the extended length that is protruding out of your micro USB slot, this thread is not for you and you are not obliged to use or try the setup in any way. The solution provided here is not perfect but a fully functional solution.
To avoid further trolling, this thread will not be updated any more nor any post will be made by the OP.
Oh my f*cking god it is amazing that someone can be as utterly stupid as you are and survive beyond puberty. Seriously, do you have any idea what a moron you sound like?
YOU HAVE NO CLUE WHAT YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT.
I find it absolutely ASTOUNDING that you are quoting sources that completely contradict your argument, and yet you claim them as evidence that you are right.
I was particularly amused by the fact that you quoted the wiki, but you don't seem to have read or understood what you quoted in the least. This is evidenced by the fact that you claim:
jopat said:
] Second, those " well-documented, globally recognized industry standard" is not for the "USB" that you re referring to, therefore they don't exist. "USB" is not the whole device or cable itself, but the receptacle & plug and how they will transmit power and data. They don't specify how the device should deliver them. In fact, you can attach another device in the cable between the USB ends.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
and
jopat said:
]I'll say it once again, the USB standard is for the connectors. Anything beyond the connectors and the immediate wires connecting on the pins are not covered by the standard that you claim.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But if you had actually read the VERY FIRST LINE at the top of the wiki entry, it says:
Universal Serial Bus (USB) is an industry standard developed in the mid-1990s that defines the cables, connectors and communications protocols used in a bus for connection, communication, and power supply between computers and electronic devices
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is not just about the "connectors and the immediate wires connecting the pins", the USB standard lays out EVERYTHING, from the connector dimensions, to the pinouts, to the cables, to the power transmission levels, to the data transfer. If a device does not comply with those standards, then it can not be legally called "USB Certified".
Game, set, match.
Mod Edit
Thread Closed
ronnie498
Forum Moderator
Hi all,
Im trying to get into tech blogging and reviewing stuff, so I thought I'd kick it off with a review of a USB hub, something people take for granted and no one ever seems to review! so here goes, im going to share with you mt thoughts on my new toy! Any feedback on my review would be greatly appreciated.
Just as a note, I dont work for Inatech, I work for a Pharmaceutical company and just enjoy technology
As an Update I've just spotted on their website there is an off on at the moment for back to school or something so there are voucher codes for some products including the USB hub
http://www.inateck.com/back-to-school/
Testing out a new toy, USB3 four port hub with USB OTG for mobile.
I'll be testing it on my PC which has 2 USB3 ports (Asus P8P67 Deluxe motherboard) and on my trusty Samsung Galaxy S4.
Unboxing and device overview
The hub arrived from Amazon, well packaged, no instructions, just the hub and a Returns and Exchanges piece of paper listing the companies policies.
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Taking the hub out I was actually surprised with how well made and solid it felt, i've previously only had cheap USB hub so this is my first proper one. The housing feels like a thick plastic and around the top 3 USB ports there is what feels like brushed aluminium adding to the premium feel. There is a forth USB port on the other end of the hub making this a 4 port USB3 hub.
The cable that comes with it is 12 inches long, as the company says on their website, this is intended for phones and ultrabooks not for down the back of a PC, but feel free to use a USB 3 extension lead to use it with a PC. At the end of the USB3 lead is a little USB OTG adaptor which is attached to the main usb lead with a length of thin plastic which is formed from the outer housing of the USB OTG connector. Not sure how long this will last and keep the OTG adapter attached, felt like if you gave it a bit of abuse eventually it would wear out.
Overall if feels quite premium and solid. Let get onto the testing!
Testing
Ok everyone case most about android devices here so i'll do that first and the PC testing as an after thought!
Testing on the Samsung Galaxy S4 (i9505), plugging it in, it detected it as a "USB Connector" no problem. Ok lets plug some stuff in and see how far I can push the poor phone!
First up a Transcend USB3 stick, connected no problem . To test the speed I used A1 SD Benchmark from the play store. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.a1dev.sdbench&hl=en
On my PC the device (Tested with USBdeview) gets write speed of about 90mb/s and read or 18mb/s. On the phone it gets read 26mb/s and write 18mb/s, so a bit slower than plugged into PC but the Galaxy S4 doesnt support USB OTG ad USB3 speeds so its as expected. Just to check that the Inateck hub isnt slowing things down lets test it with my normal USB OTG adaptor, the results - exactly the same speed. So the hub isnt slowing things down.
Lets try 2 USB sticks Since im poor I can only afford 1 USB3 pendrive so the others are usb2. I have an OCZ Rally 2 4GB and a Texet 2GB, lets plug them all in and see if the phone can handle storage overload! 3 USB sticks plugged in and the power hasnt given up, all 3 are lit up and ES File explorer detects them as USBDriveA, B and C no problems on each.
Lets push my luck and try a forth! again no problem, 4 usb devices attached to the unpowered hub and its not a problem! Tapping the unmount option from the notification bar will unmount ALL the usb drives at once, tad annoying but its a Samsung thing and seeing as I wasnt expecting the phone to be able to power 4 devices at once im happy!
Final test I have for this poor device is keyboard, mouse and USB3 drive copying files all going at once. The benchmark app wouldnt let me multi-task and write an email while benchmarking so i just moved the mouse around a lot but it didnt affect the transfer speeds during the test. The keyboard, mouse and usb pen drive all worked no problem when plugged in.
Ok so thats how well the hub performs on an android device, im pretty pleased so far, i feel like i really pushed it and it was fine, but so far its no different to the cheap hub i bought on ebay that comes apart quite easily. The real thing with this is the USB3 functionality so lets plug it into a USB3 port already and see how well it performs at speed!
Ok plugging in the device, Windows 7 detected it no problem.
It worked fine in a USB 2 port or a USB 3 port.
Again the same pendrive, lets test the speed. Plugged directly into the PC I get Read 18mb/s and write 90mb/s on my Transcend drive.
So thats all good, lets see how it performs through the hub. As you can see from the pictures above the hub doesnt slow things down when using 1 port.
The only other USB3 Devices I have are a 3TB hard drive so lets speed test then with and without the hub and see if the hub is going to slow things down. When using my 3TB hard drive and the USB Pen drive the results were similar to using a single device, no slow down (i dont want to flood this thread with screen shots)
The results look pretty nice, no slowdown with or without the usb hub even when I pushed things speed testing.
Overall Im actually quite pleased with this little device and it will replace my Cheap USB hub im using at the moment.
Hope everyone found this useful!
Heres the link to their website, i got mine from Amazon UK.
http://www.inateck.com/inateck-hb4002g-4-port-usb-3-0-hub-otg/
Attracting
Thanks so much for your review. Totally attracting
I love the OTG port, it will make my cellphone work like a laptop:good::good:
i love it cheap (for it work:victory and high quality hub for pc and phone its really must have hub
thanks very much for review :highfive:
Thank-you for taking the time for such a thorough review!
I am having this issue with the Third Party Type C Headphone
I have bought 2 different brands of Headphone and they are not working at all in my Galaxy Note 10+
does anyone have the same issue as me?
It pissed me, because Samsung ditch the headphone Jack and now they have restricted third party accessories
what a petty move..... I'm seriously pissed because of this issue
can someone, anybody, help me with this issue?
k31k0ku said:
I am having this issue with the Third Party Type C Headphone
I have bought 2 different brands of Headphone and they are not working in my Galaxy Note 10+
does anyone have the same issue as me?
It pissed me, because Samsung ditch the headphone Jack and now they have restricted third party accessories
what a petty move..... I'm seriously pissed because of this issue
can someone, anybody, help me with this issue?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure -
The signal used for traditional speakers (including tiny ones in earbuds) use an analog electrical signal which as it fluctuates through a coil of wires, causes a magnet in the middle of that coil to move back and forth. A flat funnel-shaped cone attached to that magnet also moves and forth and the way it moves the air creates the sound. This analog signal (which looks like a wave) is very inefficient for transmitting or storage in electronics. Therefore information (as well as sound) is handled as a digital (meaning on/off only rather than a fluctuating (analog) signal).
So somewhere in between the sound (analog) and the source of it (digital) is always a very simple electrical circuit called a DAC (Digital to Analog Converter).
The earbuds that come with the phone in this case accept a digital signal at the connection point and actually already include a DAC somewhere before the tiny speakers that play into your ears. Essentially without realizing it, your expectation was that the DAC was already in the phone circuitry somewhere before it reaches the jack into which you are plugging your earbuds (most earbuds do not have a DAC and the two you tried do not either).
This situation annoyed me too, I am one of those folks that wanted to keep the 3.5mm headphone jack.
However, these DAC (Digital to Analog Converter) circuits are very tiny - and cheap too!
So, I was looking for an adapter/splitter that would let you plug in both a 3.5mm headphone jack AND a USB Type C cable from a charger. I also bought an in-line meter which allows you to measure the power being fed into the phone to make sure any third-party charging related accessories are providing the correct power to the phone for fast charging. I did not know these even existed until recently. You really have to have it because the new high speed and high power charging standard - which is further complicated because Samsung adds a slight twist of their own to the standard - requires a special kind of conversation between the charger and the phone being charged. Most older (even high quality) cables won't work properly with it, and you phone will charge with this - but only MUCH more slowly! I will leave a link to the meter for you below. I bought two different dongles/splitters but returned them because the power they supplied to the phone was lame to say the least. Then, I stopped looking - because Samsung posted a warning that they may damage the phone or earphones with high-powered chargers going through such dongles. That announcement was on the Samsung Members app which everyone should install from the Galaxy Store. See the attached pictures of the warning.
There is an adapter (USB Type C to 3.5mm Stereo) offered by Samsung but when I looked they only had white. I bought this instead in black - very heavy duty braided cable - and it works perfectly. Therefore - this adapter includes a DAC - which is compatible:
USB-C to 3.5mm Headphone Jack Adapter, USB Type-C to 3.5mm Adapter Nylon Cable [DAC Hi-Res] Compatible with iPad Pro New 2018,Pixle 2/XL/3,HTC,Samsung S8/S9/Note 8 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RMY3V9D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6I7EDb2JHJA9J
Here is the meter you need (I will include some photos of the meter as well because for a small amount of money it really is an amazing device!):
MakerHawk USB Power Meter, TC66 USB Tester Type C USB Voltage Meter and Current Tester, 0.96 Inch IPS Color LCD Display Power Tester Multimeter PD Ammeter Voltmeter QC 2.0 3.0 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NXRPNPR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gY7EDbMG2NHRX
Man, I am such a geek... LOL! I hope this helps!
P.S. - if you do want to just buy other earbuds without any adapter needed - just be sure they include a DAC and you should be good to go!View attachment 4819058View attachment 4819059
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View attachment 4819072View attachment 4819075View attachment 4819076
Sent from my SM-N976V using Tapatalk
to add to that, I recommend getting the official C to 3.5mm adapter from Samsung.Major manufacturer most likely has better DAC and circuity than one from Amazon.
this one https://www.samsung.com/us/mobile/m.../usb-c-headphone-jack-adapter-ee-uc10juwegus/
jass65 said:
to add to that, I recommend getting the official C to 3.5mm adapter from Samsung.Major manufacturer most likely has better DAC and circuity than one from Amazon.
this one https://www.samsung.com/us/mobile/m.../usb-c-headphone-jack-adapter-ee-uc10juwegus/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes but they only had them in white and the one I ordered (link above) also works well...
Sent from my SM-N976V using Tapatalk
KruseLudsMobile said:
Sure -
The signal used for traditional speakers (including tiny ones in earbuds) use an analog electrical signal which as it fluctuates through a coil of wires, causes a magnet in the middle of that coil to move back and forth. A flat funnel-shaped cone attached to that magnet also moves and forth and the way it moves the air creates the sound. This analog signal (which looks like a wave) is very inefficient for transmitting or storage in electronics. Therefore information (as well as sound) is handled as a digital (meaning on/off only rather than a fluctuating (analog) signal).
So somewhere in between the sound (analog) and the source of it (digital) is always a very simple electrical circuit called a DAC (Digital to Analog Converter).
The earbuds that come with the phone in this case accept a digital signal at the connection point and actually already include a DAC somewhere before the tiny speakers that play into your ears. Essentially without realizing it, your expectation was that the DAC was already in the phone circuitry somewhere before it reaches the jack into which you are plugging your earbuds (most earbuds do not have a DAC and the two you tried do not either).
This situation annoyed me too, I am one of those folks that wanted to keep the 3.5mm headphone jack.
However, these DAC (Digital to Analog Converter) circuits are very tiny - and cheap too!
So, I was looking for an adapter/splitter that would let you plug in both a 3.5mm headphone jack AND a USB Type C cable from a charger. I also bought an in-line meter which allows you to measure the power being fed into the phone to make sure any third-party charging related accessories are providing the correct power to the phone for fast charging. I did not know these even existed until recently. You really have to have it because the new high speed and high power charging standard - which is further complicated because Samsung adds a slight twist of their own to the standard - requires a special kind of conversation between the charger and the phone being charged. Most older (even high quality) cables won't work properly with it, and you phone will charge with this - but only MUCH more slowly! I will leave a link to the meter for you below. I bought two different dongles/splitters but returned them because the power they supplied to the phone was lame to say the least. Then, I stopped looking - because Samsung posted a warning that they may damage the phone or earphones with high-powered chargers going through such dongles. That announcement was on the Samsung Members app which everyone should install from the Galaxy Store. See the attached pictures of the warning.
There is an adapter (USB Type C to 3.5mm Stereo) offered by Samsung but when I looked they only had white. I bought this instead in black - very heavy duty braided cable - and it works perfectly. Therefore - this adapter includes a DAC - which is compatible:
USB-C to 3.5mm Headphone Jack Adapter, USB Type-C to 3.5mm Adapter Nylon Cable [DAC Hi-Res] Compatible with iPad Pro New 2018,Pixle 2/XL/3,HTC,Samsung S8/S9/Note 8 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RMY3V9D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6I7EDb2JHJA9J
Here is the meter you need (I will include some photos of the meter as well because for a small amount of money it really is an amazing device!):
MakerHawk USB Power Meter, TC66 USB Tester Type C USB Voltage Meter and Current Tester, 0.96 Inch IPS Color LCD Display Power Tester Multimeter PD Ammeter Voltmeter QC 2.0 3.0 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NXRPNPR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gY7EDbMG2NHRX
Man, I am such a geek... LOL! I hope this helps!
P.S. - if you do want to just buy other earbuds without any adapter needed - just be sure they include a DAC and you should be good to go!View attachment 4819058View attachment 4819059View attachment 4819068View attachment 4819072View attachment 4819075View attachment 4819076
Sent from my SM-N976V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your detailed explanation. It helped me after 3 years. I just bought a new Note 10 plus.
Strange, I have a Note 10+ and I got some skullcandy headphones that are usb c and they work perfect.