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Hi All
I, like many people, use my orbit and now orbit 2 as an mp3 player. I have a few headphone adapters which allows me to use normal headphones which sound much better than the stock o2 ones. Not a bad solution however when a call comes in you have to unplug the headphone adapter to allow the phone mic to work. Having the adapter plugged in disables the phone mic.
I was wonder if anyone had any ideas on how I could 'fix' the headphone adapter so that it no longer disabled the mic. The theory is that should a call come in i can keep my headphones on and simply hold the phone up to my mouth to talk. My look a bit odd but it will save all that unplugging/replugging.
Thanks in advance
Jeff
found this...
http://www.tracyandmatt.co.uk/blogs/index.php/2006/09/10/htc_hermes_usb_connector_pin_config
assuming it's the same...do you think I just break off pin 1 ?
thanks again.
Jeff
wertert said:
found this...
http://www.tracyandmatt.co.uk/blogs/index.php/2006/09/10/htc_hermes_usb_connector_pin_config
assuming it's the same...do you think I just break off pin 1 ?
thanks again.
Jeff
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I doubt it's that simple. I really, really wish I could find it again but floating around somewhere on the web is a site that has a proper wiring diagram as well as just the pinouts.
From memory I think there's a pin held low (or maybe high) somewhere to tell the device that the adaptor is plugged in. I don't think that just the presence of a connection to pin 1 is what does it.
My suggestion is to open up the plug on your least-favourite adaptor (to experiment in case you trash it) and look for internal links between pins. My guess would be that either one of pins 4 or 5 is not a genuine Gnd signal but is actually a pin that is held low (i.e. set to Gnd) by the headset adaptor via a link from one of the genuine Gnd signals coming in on USB pin A or the other one of pin 4 or 5 . Alternatively one of pins 4 or 5 might be asserted high by a bridge to pin E. Finally the USB NC pin (pin B) might be the detector pin and asserted either high or low via a link to one of the Gnd or +5V input pins.
What you really have to hope for though is that two of the above are true because if there is only a single pin on the plug that is either asserted high or low to allow the detection of the presence of the headset then you're really out of luck because it is then extremely unlikely that it will separately detect that the speakers are plugged in but the mic isn't so, when you identify and disable the appropriate link, you will probably also re-enable the speaker in the handset as well as activating the mic.
All the above is guesswork I'm afraid, but I am a computer hardware designer so it's not totally uneducated guesswork, so you really will have to experiment or find that wiring schematic I spoke about, but the basic message is to look for links asserting some detector pin (or pins) high or low on the connector.
- Julian
P.S. I can't think of any way that you'll break anything just by cutting links but be very careful not to short out any existing connections because that could damage your device and don't create your own extra links unless you know exactly what you're doing.
I bought a 3way connector which from one side is connected to the unit and provides me with conectors for charging the unit, for the wired hands free and for an extra connector for earphones. However, when this connector is connected to then automatically is suspending the audio connections despite if there is a hands free connected or not.
I dont know if this is a hardware or softwear peoblem. Can someone advice for a possible solution???
it has been plugged in as a handsfree and so this will happen, there's no way around about because that's what it's meant to do, i suggest you buy a different set of connectors if u dont want the headphone one
I took this addaptor to use it in the car for charging during using as GPS and also when I have a call then to connect the wired handsfree and speak. With this 3 way connectos it automatically goes to handsfree mode and I can not hear anything from the speakers.
I dont know if exist some other adaptor that will not go automatically to handsfree mode but only when a handsfree is really connected. Anyone has/use such adapter to tell us more????
chongzivalve08089 said:
Gate valve should be welded onto the line with the wedge in the fully closed position. Leaving the valve even partially open can cause distortion and leaking. Verify the drawings to make sure that the Gate valve has bi-directional sealing capability.. site:www.valvesupplier.net/forged-steel-gate-valves.htm
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What the chuff???
I'm not too sure what your after, if I'm right then you want to connect a USB charger, with handsfree capability, but you want it to only output through the handsfree when you choose to.
If the handsfree is connected it will only come out of the handsfree speaker, I use a simple USB charger when I'm using GPS other than doing that and scrapping the handsfree the only suggestion I have would be to find a way of connecting it to your headunit, so all sounds come out of the internal car speakers.
Sorry I cannot be anymore help to you.
Sup all would anyone have the actual TRRS pinouts for the audio jack for the desire I would like to make a up a lead that will allow me to plug an ordinary pair of headphones in using a proper TRRS jack instead of a TRS jack. thanks. There are definately issues plugging in a headphone directly or maybe it is my unit faulty?
Edited, this topic will show you the best way to connect your headphones to your desire as some people will experiance problems with pluggin in normal 3.5 jack plug headphones, this is due to the desire using a trrs socket for the microphone instead of a trs socket that normal headphones use.
pretty sure it is:
tip - left audio
ring 1 (closest to tip) - right audio
ring 2 - data of some kind
shield - ground
Hope this helps
cheers for that, im having some peeps tell me that i can just plug in an ordinary pair of headphones into the phone without any ill effects, i am concerned that i will have a problem because headphones are trs jacks and the desire has the trrs 3.5 jack. can anyone confirm any details on this for me please
nah you can use a normal TRS 3.5mm jack with no problems. I guess that when you use a normal TRS jack then shield and ring 2 on the connector are both connected to shield on the jack so it adjusts the software accordingly. But yea, no problems.
cheers for that
edited, we have since discovered that this is not the case, please read the entire topic for the correct way to connect headphones to the desire.
standard 3,5 mm (TRS) headphones DO CAUSE ISSUES
Was about to resend my HTC Desire, because it randomly called, skipped music stopped the music, FM-radio freeze etc. from the moment I connected my high-end 3,5mm headphone (TRS type: 3 contacts).
No issues with the standard headset delivered with the HTC Desire (TRRS type: 3,5mm 4 contacts).
So, you might need a TRS -> TRRS adapter.
Anyone with other experiences???
Basically what I have found is that many of the normal headphones are not working correctly because it is a trrs socket that is used. To me this would mean that normal headphones shouldnt be used, I have tried various headphones but there are definately issues with them,
The main issue I was having was as you have said above and also the base wasnt right with them
I have since bought this
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130384433476&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
which arrive today and when I am using this in conjunction with my headphones I now have the proper base to the set and NONE of the problems I was having when i was plugging them into the phone directly......... they just didnt sound right, now using griffin smarttalk this i can definately tell the difference now especially in the base, also this unit will lower the volume and allow you to make a call automatically with built in mike, clicking it twice doesnt skip the track suggested instead it will ring the last number dialled in the phone so a bonus actually to me
the straight adapters ie trrs to trs are very nearly the same price as this if not more expensive so i would recommend this all day long to you. At £9.75 delivered bargain m8, bought late evening on the 20th arrived this morning what more can i say, but if you are having issues it is definately in my eyes because of the difference in the trrs socket to the trs socket,
the base is fantastic on this phone now, before it was terrible, now i just need an equaliser to remove some of it
When you speak of "normal headphones", are you referring to simple 3.5 TRS headphones, or headphones with a mic ?
Cause if the majority of the headphones (without mic I mean) won't properly work with the Desire, it's a major flaw according to me.
I confirm: TRS (3 contacts, without mic) do not work...
...I tried 4 different 3,5mm stereo headsets (TRS type, 3 pole, without mic). NONE of them worked correctly (phenomenons as described above).
When you plug a 3 pole TRS headphone in the Desire 4 pole TRRS headphone output, a short circuit is generated between the first 2 internal contacts (seen from connector input: ground + control line).
I suspect that the Desire firmware cannot detect/handle this situation, and so it causes random actions (prev, next, call numbers, stop, play, ....)
I suspect that this issue could be solved with a firmware upgrade....
there is no way they would release hardware with a 3.5mm socket that you cant plug a 3.5mm jack into right? the firmware does detect when you use a TRS instead of a TRRS. You get a different icon on your notification bar for each of them. As ive said before my AKG's have worked perfectly so far and have shown none of the problems listed above.
This afternoon I quickly tested my Seinheiser PX100 headphones with a friend's desire and the Htc music player.
It worked flawlessly. Volume was good and it didn't play/pause/skipped tracks.
As I said it was a really quick test so I can't say for sure that everything's was okay.
Nonetheless apparently a lot of people experienced problems with numerous headphones. To me it's really a shame you can't even plug ANY 3.5mm jack headphones with the desire ...
I hope a software update could fix this.
I also had this problem when connecting my Desire to my car radio using an standard 3.5mm AUX cable. Will this cable solve my problem or will my car radio not be able to recognize a 4 pole cable?
http://cgi.ebay.nl/3-5mm-Male-TRRS-...erAccess_RL&hash=item5d28c530c1#ht_1252wt_939
I think this might be an issue of certain cables not making a full connection due to the shape of the case surrounding the socket. I had no problems with my headphones, sound was good and loud enough although I could see how it might not be loud enough for some.
I did start having issues when I plugged the aux lead in my car into the phone. The lead has a large shroud that obstructed the plug from being plugged all the way in. This gave the same problems as described in other posts, skipping tracks and also crashing the music software at one point.
I replaced the lead with another that had a better fit and the problems went away but I did notice when I leaned against the lead while it was playing music in my car it started skipping track again.
I wonder what HTC have to say about this....
DHel01 said:
I also had this problem when connecting my Desire to my car radio using an standard 3.5mm AUX cable. Will this cable solve my problem or will my car radio not be able to recognize a 4 pole cable?
http://cgi.ebay.nl/3-5mm-Male-TRRS-...erAccess_RL&hash=item5d28c530c1#ht_1252wt_939
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I solved those problems with this lead- i dont think the one your showing will work for you
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220593400305
they come from china etc however only 5 days to arrive from ordering.
and I now enjoy trouble free music. I also have ordered the Griffin Smart Talk so i can listen to my headphones and be able to answer the phone as well however I didnt want to use it for plugging into a car stereo etc etc so i wanted a straight lead conversion.
Just a quick warning the first lead i ordered from this person was faulty, however i had also ordered 3 other leads from the same person as an after thought which were all perfect.. as they are only pennies it is worth ordering one or two spare for redundancy purposes. I decided to order 3 as backups more in case i broke one and the person stopped selling them etc etc
These leads will allow you to connect the htc to any other source including external speakers which didnt work when putting them in normally but did work when i used this cable in conjunction with it.
this cable is a trrs to trs jack plug and is used to convert a 4 pin socket to a 3 pin socket jack plug.
I've been using a pair of JVC Gummy Air on my Desire since I got it, not a single problem.
Re: TRRS Pinouts for Desire
I've used some headphones, and 2 different aux connector for the cars and all 3 work absolutely perfectly. No issues at all.
Sent from my HTC Desire
I have been using my Yuin PK3 earbuds for music since I got my Desire and it has been working without any problems.
TheOriginalKi said:
I've been using a pair of JVC Gummy Air on my Desire since I got it, not a single problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh yeah and I've also hooked it into the tv via a standard audio cable!
Not sure what you guys are talking about but my AIAIAI headset works fine with the Desire
Mic working too!
aiaiai.dk/headsets/tracks-headsets/tracks-headset-black.html
^those
Sennheiser PXC 250 with NR, no problems
While I was trying my car radio mods for a jack input, I probably make for error a short citcuit to some cable at 12v with my phone jack output
My phone crashed and restarted itself. All seems ok, but now when I try to use my jack output (for example with normal headphones) I have a lot of background noise, and when I try to turn up the volume above a certain treshold, I get a lot of distortion and the music is not "listenable" (simply horrible, only strange sounds distorted and so on..).
I have another photon Q (FAIL sim mod but working) and I was trying to see the resistence values from the jack output to the components near the output, but I can't se any differences with my headphone-broken-board.
The music works well if I use the internal speaker, the problem is only with headphone, jack output.
Someone can help me? Someone have the circuit of the board near the jack out to understand what I have burned out?
I hope so
Try replacing the jack from your other only held in with double sided tape
Sent from my XT897 using Tapatalk
You might want to use a bluetooth headset with a headphone jack in the future. Just to make sure that the actual expensive thing won't get hurt.
With such bluetooth headset you don't even need the jack at your Photon Q
I assume that some resistor or fuse has been blown up.
But I don't have experience in such things.
thanks for your replies!
bluetooth is good idea, I was considering also a microUSB to jack out, so I don't waste energy for bluetooth connection.. do you know if photon q can handle jack out from microUSB or microHDMI out?
I have replaced the back cover with the other one of the 'good working' phone, but the problem is here.. I think some resistors or capacitor is broken, it seems a filtering issue or a output impedance issue.
I could remove resistors from the other board and solder in my board, but I don't know what is broken and I don't know the circuit logic.
would love to repair circuit, otherwise I could solder a micro hdmi/usb to jack out in the phone to replace the standard jack out.. ahah! But is not so easy
Over microHDMI it can but only digital, not analog. Useless for a car radio.
Never tried over microUSB. But I think it's also digital.
The energy which is lost because of bluetooth is not really more than the analog sound over the headphone jack.
Listening music for about 6 hours (with sometimes texting/surfing for about 50 minutes) I get nearly 40% battery used.
Bluetooth is on, day and night. As long as it is not connected to anything, the energy usage is nearly zero.
Loader009 said:
Over microHDMI it can but only digital, not analog. Useless for a car radio.
Never tried over microUSB. But I think it's also digital.
The energy which is lost because of bluetooth is not really more than the analog sound over the headphone jack.
Listening music for about 6 hours (with sometimes texting/surfing for about 50 minutes) I get nearly 40% battery used.
Bluetooth is on, day and night. As long as it is not connected to anything, the energy usage is nearly zero.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks for your info. I have never used bluetooth so much
But what about similar cables: http://it.aliexpress.com/item/Micro...er-For-Nokia-E52-E72-N900-8600/547805050.html
Perhaps some phone can handle analog output from microusb?
If photon q is able to do this, and if in that cable is not present some type of circuit, i can solder the correct cables from microusb to standard jack out. I could lose mic input, but I don't use it..
I'll try to find similar cables in my zone for testing, before buy it
edit: this thread is great http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1321491
i think that soldering similar things in my phone I could never use my usb port for data again
for now I'll buy similar cable. I hope to find a way to repair my board anyway
If you have a microUSB cable, you could theoretically cut it and try it out.
But you need to know the correct colorcode for this cable, maybe wikipedia is useful.
Still, I think the audio over microUSB is only for the docking station.
(Never tried that, pure theory.)
This cable should do what you need: http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Audio-Power-SKN6394A-Bionic/dp/B00H8YATYI
It comes with the original Photon Q car dock and when it's connected, the phone switches to EMU audio output - analogue audio output on USB pins.
I've done the coding work so this cable is supported in CM 10.2/11 (changes to kernel, audio HAL and framework).
I haven't tried to figure out how it's actually wired and what resistor values are used between what pins so the connection of this cable is recognized by the phone as there was no need for me - the cable I have works just fine. I can try to measure it if you need it, but I unfortunately can't promise when I actually find the time for it - I would need to make some preparation with usb female connectors I don't have handy currently.
Your issue sounds like you've damaged some part of the headphone amplifier. I don't know the hardware details of how it's exactly wired in the case of Photon Q. I suppose it's using a separate Speaker amplifier TPA2015D1 (as used in Atrix HD), but the headphone output may be coming almost directly from the WCD9310 headphone output. Not sure.
kabaldan said:
This cable should do what you need: http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Audio-Power-SKN6394A-Bionic/dp/B00H8YATYI
It comes with the original Photon Q car dock and when it's connected, the phone switches to EMU audio output - analogue audio output on USB pins.
I've done the coding work so this cable is supported in CM 10.2/11 (changes to kernel, audio HAL and framework).
I haven't tried to figure out how it's actually wired and what resistor values are used between what pins so the connection of this cable is recognized by the phone as there was no need for me - the cable I have works just fine. I can try to measure it if you need it, but I unfortunately can't promise when I actually find the time for it - I would need to make some preparation with usb female connectors I don't have handy currently.
Your issue sounds like you've damaged some part of the headphone amplifier. I don't know the hardware details of how it's exactly wired in the case of Photon Q. I suppose it's using a separate Speaker amplifier TPA2015D1 (as used in Atrix HD), but the headphone output may be coming almost directly from the WCD9310 headphone output. Not sure.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your help.
I'll buy one of these cable for now, but I would like to repair anyway my photon Q headphone output.
I could find this WCD9310 in the board: I have a rework station so I could swap that chip from my other photon Q hoping to solve the issue..
But the output signal in headphones seems disturbed, usually I know that the digital electronics either works or it does not work .. it seems a problem of analog electronics, filtering or output impedance. I'm wrong? Or maybe within the WCD9310 there is some analog circuit?
nagash91 said:
Thanks for your help.
I'll buy one of these cable for now, but I would like to repair anyway my photon Q headphone output.
I could find this WCD9310 in the board: I have a rework station so I could swap that chip from my other photon Q hoping to solve the issue..
But the output signal in headphones seems disturbed, usually I know that the digital electronics either works or it does not work .. it seems a problem of analog electronics, filtering or output impedance. I'm wrong? Or maybe within the WCD9310 there is some analog circuit?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Qualcomm proprietary audio hub WCD9310 contains also integrated headphone amplifier.
See the MSM8960/PM8921/WCD9310 reference design schematics:
http://d-h.st/xJ9
Sheets 28 and 29.
You can see that there are only resistors and transient voltage suppressors between the headphone jack and WCD9310 HPH outputs.
kabaldan said:
The Qualcomm proprietary audio hub WCD9310 contains also integrated headphone amplifier.
See the MSM8960/PM8921/WCD9310 reference design schematics:
http://d-h.st/xJ9
Sheets 28 and 29.
You can see that there are only resistors and transient voltage suppressors between the headphone jack and WCD9310 HPH outputs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're giving me a great help, thank you.
Unfortunately I'm not so good with integrated circuit or similar.
What I can understand from the sheets:
- J6 JA13331-SW38-4F at top-right of sheet 29 is the jack output socket.
- Pin 1 and 4 are right and left headphone signals.
- As you said, the pin 1 and 4 goes to the WCD9310: HPH_LP pin 12, HPH_RM pin 17, and HPH_REF pin 18 (i think is the headset "gnd")
- As you said, between pin 1 and pin 4 of jack input and the WCD9310, there are only resistors, capacitors, and voltage suppressors.
So I understand: the problem are these voltage suppressors or capacitors or resistors or WCD9310 ! :laugh:
You said that probably is WCD9310.. you are more expert than me of coures, and I hope the only problem is the WCD9310 because is the easier component to locate and replace!
I could try to swap the WCD9310, but I don't know where is locate in photon Q, and all IC in the board are covered from metal cases.
I can remove all the metal covers from my 2nd photon Q until I find WCD9310.. but I'll destroy that board definitively.
It is possible that there is so little information on the photon q on the internet? I would like to find a circuit schematics, or at least an info about how the IC are placed in the board.
Good news!!!!!!
I have found WCD9310 in my broken board!!
I'll remove also the other two "capsule" and I'll make a detailed photo, it could be usefull for other problems :laugh:
back with SanDisk 8gb "ssd":
I have an Xtrons PF75ATTAR and it has developed a fault. It boots up fine and everything works as it should however there is no sound.
I have reinstalled the original Audi head unit and this works fine so the fault seems to lie with the Xtrons unit.
I contacted Xtrons and as I am not the original purchaser they can offer no support at all and suggested I buy a new unit. It is just still within 12-months warranty so I am trying to get hold of the guy I bought it from to see if he can arrange an RMA, however I need to try other options just in case I can't get hold of him or he won't cooperate.
I am not much of an electronics person (I have a soldering iron and a multimeter....) so I am not sure how to troubleshoot this.
The unit has a 'dongle' between the audio out on the rear of the head unit. This is encased in heat-shrink and I am not sure what it does, but is inline with the audio outs so I am wondering whether it might be this that is at fault?
Any help is appreciated
Andy
ADB100 said:
I have an Xtrons PF75ATTAR and it has developed a fault. It boots up fine and everything works as it should however there is no sound.
I have reinstalled the original Audi head unit and this works fine so the fault seems to lie with the Xtrons unit.
I contacted Xtrons and as I am not the original purchaser they can offer no support at all and suggested I buy a new unit. It is just still within 12-months warranty so I am trying to get hold of the guy I bought it from to see if he can arrange an RMA, however I need to try other options just in case I can't get hold of him or he won't cooperate.
I am not much of an electronics person (I have a soldering iron and a multimeter....) so I am not sure how to troubleshoot this.
The unit has a 'dongle' between the audio out on the rear of the head unit. This is encased in heat-shrink and I am not sure what it does, but is inline with the audio outs so I am wondering whether it might be this that is at fault?
Any help is appreciated
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi there, do you have any pics of this "dongle"?
I'm just wondering if the speaker outputs have been converted to a low level output so they can be used as a line-in on an amp. If this is the case then the speaker outputs will have been spliced and effectively diverted from the loom which would result in no sound until you either use the converted outputs into a separate amp or reconnect them to the original wires so that you use the standard speaker outputs from the head unit.
I may be well of the mark here but seeing as I have just completed an install in my friends van with this same "spliced" setup, its worth checking out.
sirleeofroy said:
Hi there, do you have any pics of this "dongle"?
I'm just wondering if the speaker outputs have been converted to a low level output so they can be used as a line-in on an amp. If this is the case then the speaker outputs will have been spliced and effectively diverted from the loom which would result in no sound until you either use the converted outputs into a separate amp or reconnect them to the original wires so that you use the standard speaker outputs from the head unit.
I may be well of the mark here but seeing as I have just completed an install in my friends van with this same "spliced" setup, its worth checking out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't take these pictures myself, however this is the dongle.
It was working fine for about 6-months and I haven't changed anything. I got in the car one day and there was no sound. After about 20 minutes I started to hear some pops and feint audio. I stopped the car and turned the ignition off for a minute or so and then started it back up and the sound returned. The next time I got in the car there was no audio and stopping and starting didn't fix it.
ADB100 said:
I didn't take these pictures myself, however this is the dongle.
It was working fine for about 6-months and I haven't changed anything. I got in the car one day and there was no sound. After about 20 minutes I started to hear some pops and feint audio. I stopped the car and turned the ignition off for a minute or so and then started it back up and the sound returned. The next time I got in the car there was no audio and stopping and starting didn't fix it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, that's not what I was thinking....
That looks like the breakout for your line-out, do you run an amp with your head unit or just use the internal amp?
Your description of pops and feint audio with eventual lack of audio sounds like something has blown
sirleeofroy said:
Ok, that's not what I was thinking....
That looks like the breakout for your line-out, do you run an amp with your head unit or just use the internal amp?
Your description of pops and feint audio with eventual lack of audio sounds like something has blown
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My car has a Bose amp (factory fit).
Any ideas how to troubleshoot?
ADB100 said:
My car has a Bose amp (factory fit).
Any ideas how to troubleshoot?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, I'm not familiar with Audi setups but I'm guessing the Bose amp still requires a 12v remote to switch it on, usually a blue wire from the head unit. Could be worth checking that for 12v on ignition.
My PX5 unit effectively has 2 blue remote wires, one called "ANT" and one called "AMP SWITCH" or something like that..... might be worth swapping those over if you have two like I do.
How is audio supplied to the amp? Is it via the line out RCA's or via the loom/harness?
Another thing to look at, and I know this will sound super silly but on my unit a couple of the connections on the rear are similar to one another and it could be relatively easy to plug something into the wrong port. I did it and wondered why my USB didn't work! I'm sure this is not the case but still worth checking.
sirleeofroy said:
Ok, I'm not familiar with Audi setups but I'm guessing the Bose amp still requires a 12v remote to switch it on, usually a blue wire from the head unit. Could be worth checking that for 12v on ignition.
My PX5 unit effectively has 2 blue remote wires, one called "ANT" and one called "AMP SWITCH" or something like that..... might be worth swapping those over if you have two like I do.
How is audio supplied to the amp? Is it via the line out RCA's or via the loom/harness?
Another thing to look at, and I know this will sound super silly but on my unit a couple of the connections on the rear are similar to one another and it could be relatively easy to plug something into the wrong port. I did it and wondered why my USB didn't work! I'm sure this is not the case but still worth checking.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The audio is supplied to the amp via a quad-lock connector. So the audio from the rear of the unit connects to this dongle on one side, out the other side of the dongle are four female RCA's. These are connected to four male RCA's that connect to the quad-lock connector. There are two blue wires labelled 'AMP-CON' that have male/female push-fit connectors and these are connected together - I am guessing this is the 12v to switch the amp on? There is also another blue wire labelled 'ANT' with a push-fit connector. This is connected to a green wire coming out of the antenna facra cable.
It was working and nothing has been disturbed so I am fairly sure its not been wired up incorrectly. I think something has broken...
I'll check with a multimeter that I am getting 12v on the AMP-CON cable from the back of the amp first.
Andy
OK, so armed with multimeter I decided to have a play with this earlier. It does appear that the AMP-CON wire is not delivering 12V and therefore not turning the Bose amp on.
If I disconnect the 12v wire from the dual fakra antenna adapter the sound kicks in, however the radio reception is dreadful. I believe the 12V wire is there to power an antenna signal booster integral to the car. If I measure the voltage with the 12v wire disconnected from the fakra adapter its 10.something volts, if I measure it with the 12v wire connected its 0.something volts. Is it likely this fakra adapter is faulty? It looks like a passive component?
Cheers
Andy
ADB100 said:
OK, so armed with multimeter I decided to have a play with this earlier. It does appear that the AMP-CON wire is not delivering 12V and therefore not turning the Bose amp on.
If I disconnect the 12v wire from the dual fakra antenna adapter the sound kicks in, however the radio reception is dreadful. I believe the 12V wire is there to power an antenna signal booster integral to the car. If I measure the voltage with the 12v wire disconnected from the fakra adapter its 10.something volts, if I measure it with the 12v wire connected its 0.something volts. Is it likely this fakra adapter is faulty? It looks like a passive component?
Cheers
Andy
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Ah good, I'm glad that you've narrowed it down! As far as I'm aware, these wires are 12v switched and are there simply to provide the signal for whatever device to turn on. If the AMP-CON wire has no voltage, you may just be able to use the same wire you use for your Antenna. I have done this before where I used the 12v switched wire from an antenna in the boot instead of running a remote wire the full length of the car.
I would be curious to find out why the AMP-CON wire does not supply voltage, it could be down to a broken wire somewhere or even a dodgy solder within the unit.
sirleeofroy said:
Ah good, I'm glad that you've narrowed it down! As far as I'm aware, these wires are 12v switched and are there simply to provide the signal for whatever device to turn on. If the AMP-CON wire has no voltage, you may just be able to use the same wire you use for your Antenna. I have done this before where I used the 12v switched wire from an antenna in the boot instead of running a remote wire the full length of the car.
I would be curious to find out why the AMP-CON wire does not supply voltage, it could be down to a broken wire somewhere or even a dodgy solder within the unit.
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Hi, thanks for taking the time to help out. I don't think I described the cabling correctly. The AMP-CON and the ANT come from the same pin in the connector that plugs into the rear of the head unit (one wire comes out and then it splits into two and there is a bit of heat-shrink around the join. If I disconnect the ANT cable from the green wire that comes from the fakra adapter there is sound and the cable goes +10v. If I connect it back up there is a low 'thud' as it makes contact, the sound stops and the voltage drops to 0.something. It seems the fakra adapter is dragging the voltage down, hence why I think this adapter might be faulty.
Andy
I have the same issue now. We’re you able to resolve this?
I am also having this issue.. My HU turns on. Everything works perfectly... Just no sound. None at all. No factory amp. In a 2002 Silverado. I don't know if its the internal amp or what. Ideas?