Related
Ok, I want to use the XDAII in the LandRover for mapping, it is noisy in the truck, I also want to play MP3 WMA files via the car stereo.
I have a Garmin eTrex but am willing to get something dedicated if the price is right.
I want a cradle for the XDAII that will hold it securly,
I want to power/charge the XDAII and GPS
I want to get the audio out of the bottom connector into the front of the stereo (3.5mm socket) for music play back (poss hands free phone too)
I still have various bits of hands free kit from when I used to fix 'carphones' in the early 90's. It would be nice if i can fit a mic in car for voice dial and calls too.
If the info on the tech page is correct on the bottom connector it would appear all is straight forward to do myself, However we all know for the cost of the parts I could by something that would do what i want and more. So what will do it. I am unsure on the XDA to XDAII connection compatability.
Current experiance of produced products is a duel universal mount from memory-map, the GPS fits fine but the XDAII just falls out, not good for £30
Cheers
Hi,
I wish the same thing that you. I would like to use the Xda2 with Land Rover Discovery for mapping together my Garmin 3+.
To do this maybe we have to make a serial and power cable or find someone who can make it.
I think the pinage for xda2 is slightly different than the xda1. In myxda.com they said: "Most accessories are not common to both except for the car charger".
If someone here can help us to know what the correct pinage for xda2 than we can make one.
Or we can buy a serial cable from O2 (I am oredering one now) and check what is the pinage used for it and mix with the car charger adapter.
what do you think about it?
Charger from xda1, serial cable, gps, usb cable (charging problem) all work with xda2, cradle also works but you need to shave a little off the inside or you will mark your xda2. I have an arkon cradle/speaker, 2 usb power jacks, speaker jack with 2.5 to 3.5 converter from xda1, this works with xda2 but the rf break through from the phone to the speaker in the cradle is atrocious, i wish I knew how to fix that problem because when you receive a call you have 10 seconds or more of rf noise before you get to hear or speak to the caller, other than that it is fine and comes with lots of different mounting options.
pinout
When I get chance Ill get my scope on the pins and work it out. Ive had my eTrex working, used the standard serial lead for the XDA2 and the eTrex, just made a null modem adapter to connect between em (info on memory map web site) Works well but you have to dissable beaming as i think they share the same comm port.
I was going to buy the eTrex connector to bare ends from Garmin but it doesn't carry power only data!!! typical. Have thought of getting one of the dedicated GPS units.
So the next best option is to have a cable from the XDA2 to a small box, this will have TX/RX audio, power and data. The box will have a PSU for the XDA and a cigar socket to for the eTrex standard lead. Id rather not chop up the lead as it cost silly money.
Re: pinout
TDIPower said:
So the next best option is to have a cable from the XDA2 to a small box, this will have TX/RX audio, power and data. The box will have a PSU for the XDA and a cigar socket to for the eTrex standard lead.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
...and your price for building these for every owner of an XDA2 (cos we're all going to want one! ) will be....?
Sounds like this would be accessory number 1 for anyone with an XDA2 and a car.
I've also got an eTrex, and I bought a serial/power Y-shaped cable last year for it, so they are available. It has a cigarette lighter plug to provide the power, and a serial output too for my laptop. Let me know if you need details - seems silly to buy a new GPS just because you can't get a combined data/power lead for it. It cost me £24 mail order, IIRC.
XDA connector
I need to find a UK supplier of the XDA connector, this would get the cost down. The easy way would be to buy the in car charger, strip it, mount the charger in the box, replace the cable with one that will do all the connections.
Ill try and play, get it set up and post somthing on here
Craddle for XDAII /MDAII
T-mobile germany sells one for €199, INCLUSIVE of sat nav software and wired mouse
Ready to mount
Re: pinout
Sorry. What is the meaning of PSU?
sublimatica said:
TDIPower said:
So the next best option is to have a cable from the XDA2 to a small box, this will have TX/RX audio, power and data. The box will have a PSU for the XDA and a cigar socket to for the eTrex standard lead.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
...and your price for building these for every owner of an XDA2 (cos we're all going to want one! ) will be....?
Sounds like this would be accessory number 1 for anyone with an XDA2 and a car.
I've also got an eTrex, and I bought a serial/power Y-shaped cable last year for it, so they are available. It has a cigarette lighter plug to provide the power, and a serial output too for my laptop. Let me know if you need details - seems silly to buy a new GPS just because you can't get a combined data/power lead for it. It cost me £24 mail order, IIRC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
PSU
PSU is short for Power Supply Unit. the bit that powers/charges the unit.
Sorry im not used to multi language conversation.
PSU
No problem!
I will learn a little bit every day
I am also currently looking at my options as like you TDIpower, I am trying to use the XDAII in a noisey landy.
I am interested in the parrot ck3000 which according to the blurb connects your phone etc via a bluetooth unit into your stereo unit. I have not looking into all the issues but I assume you would be able to use the phone/navigation and MP3 via this unit through the vehicle speakers to be able to hear whats going on? Mind you when I'm going a full tilt I can hardly hear the speakers either??
I know a couple of others on here have the parrot unit so mybe they could shed some light on this??
Cheers
sdio fm trasnmitor
i do not know if it is exist (sdio fm trasnmitor) but this will be a good solution for this case!
Hey,
Sorry to bring up old posts, but has anyone found a solution for Mount, Power, GPS (etrex) and Audio?
Dave
Have you seen this one ?
http://www.seidioonline.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=BD-SMGF1XDAII
A friend of mine bought one for his iPaq and it's brilliant, just like a cellphone cradle, slide it in, and you are ready to go.
Hi
What you are asking for is available, apart from the sound in the form of the carcomm cradle http://www.totalpda.co.uk/product4738_0.aspx.
According to the connector wiring on this site you should be abale to get sound from the bottom connector, but what the connector page fails to tell you is you only get sound out o fthe bottom connector during in a call, so its no use for MP3 or Navigation sounds. Currently I am using the jack plug which is a real pain to plug in. See http://forum.xda-developers.com/viewtopic.php?p=50643#50643
Re the Parrot CK3000, I have just taken one out of my car as it did not work with the XDA2 if you have installed bluetooth tools. And without bluetooth tools the bluetooth GPS device would not work. Also you cant currently send sound over bluetooth apart from when in a voice call.
If you find a solution to sound from the bottom connector please dont forget to post.
Good luck
JustinP
@justinp: There appears to be A way to get all sound from the bottom connector.
The T-Mobile MDAII Carkit (QTek2020 carkit and the Yeti carkit are the same make) do just that!
Unfortunately I have this (cheaper) XDAII / iMate (Expansys-sold like) carkit wich only give in-call audio via the bottom connector.
There is someting with pin19 and pin9 (I read on the german www.ppc-welt.info forum).
pin19 must be grounded
pin 9 must NOT be connected (it is on some carkits thus messing up proper operation).
Now if someone can verify this!!
:?:
Hello everyone! My name is Patryk Andrzejewski (don't try to read my name if you're not polish), and this is my first thread on XDA.
I am studing electronics on university of technology so i'm pretty well with all kind of electronic stuff.
What i'm trying to do is "x-ray" the usb port in our TG01.
My basic targets is to find way to charge the device while using USB HUB or while listening music. If it's even possible to do.
Right now I know how to connect TG01 to amplifier by 3.5mm plug. Generaly most amplifiers have high impedance input while tg01 expect low impedance earphones to switch usb port to audio output. So what we need to do is take two resistors with the same resistance around 10k Ohm and connect them both between ground and both signal channels in male 3.5mm plug of the amplifier. This should do the trick. You can experiment with resistance but it should be as high as possible to not interfere in sound quality, but if it be to big output won't swich or sound would chop on high volume.
Basic usb cable have four wires plus ground. While micro usb plug have five pins. This extra pin is used to tell device what cable is connected, hub earphones charger or pc. It can be done by two ways, in each cable this extra pin is shorted to diferent other pins. Or it's connected by resistor to ground or Vcc.
What i need to do is determine how it is in our devices and if it would be done make a cable what will allow to charge while using usb to other purposes.
I can also help with porting microusb-3.5mm cables from other devices to TG01, just what i need is this cable, it's schematic, connection route with insides picture or small donation to buy it for tests.
Or eventualy I can make solution how to do it yourself.
Right now I waiting for a pack with new empty microusb male and female plugs to do some tests.
If someone have some experience with this please share.
Also it would be great if someone will port me on to usb switch driver.
Feel free to talk to me on priv.
Thread will be updated...
Hi @patryk,
Welcome to the TG01 Forum.... especially on this particular topic - if you can find a way to get multiple function via the uUSB port simultaneously, that will be great
There have been various attempts at this before, but in practice the only route seems to be using Bluetoth for audio while either charging or using the port in host mode.
I did a piece on Brighthand a while ago on connecting an external hard drive; there have also been discussions on MoDaCo and later on XDA (down the Accessories thread.... one is here and I think there may be some earlier than that). There is a link in the XDA post to a Freescale Smiconductor chip schematic. This is supposed to be able to (externally) support multi-function usage - ntended to be used by 3rd Party manufacturers in eg. a car kit, but as yet I am not aware of any such accessories having been released. If/when available would be suitable for any of the modern crop of uUSB based evices, though I think many car makers have opted for Bluetooth connectivity instead of the older style fixed car kits with cables.
Acording to pdf from your link I'm right, its all about one resistor. It's entire possibly to do this.
Tomorrow morning tests...
Thanks
oh I cant wait so:
rid_f: >220 kOhms
rid_a: 122-126 kOhms <-- this is what we're interest in
rid_b: 67-69 kOhms
rid_c: 36-37 kOhms
rid_g: 1 kOhm
These res val has small tolerance and ar not typical.
rid_a resistance is used to switch to charge device from charger and use usb for earphones or hub!
earphones - yes, but headset - not sure I must check first where mic is connected
here it is Dummy cable schematic:
Here are some related illustrations:
Schematic of the uUSB standard audio accessory control:
View attachment 505996
Picture of the supplied Toshiba earphone adaptor pcb:
View attachment 505997
The mic is connected to pins 1 and 2 (White and bare Cu)
I have made up several 3.5mm audio adapters using Neutrik 3.5mm jacks with 10k resistors fitted from D+ and D- to 0V common:
View attachment 506008
This ensures it will switch to audio out when connecting to external speakers with or without a ground-loop isolator transformer where typically the external device will have too low an impedance for the TG01 to recognise.
Shorting out D+ (Pin 2) and D- (Pin 3) causes the TG01 to go into Charging mode.
An R from ID (Pin 4) to 0V (Pin 5) causes the TG01 to go into Host mode.
I check all of these Rid's and it seems they don't work on Tg01. No matter how i try there is working only charging or earphones never both same time.
As you say device can be forced to charge when resistor < 200 ohm is connected between D+ and D- and they are floating.
There also must be other way to do this by the driver of usb charging becouse pc link charges only when TG is on.
In TG mic an switch of headset are connected to ID pin. So this first schematic of yours is about Toshiba accesory ?
Technicaly charging while using audio out is possible becouse VBUS pin is free in headset.
I'll do some other tests tomorrow..
Hi!
Any news since February?
I will find answers on many questions by reading this document
djtonka said:
I will find answer on many question by reading this document
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is a good document, but iunfortunately leaves many questions unanswerable.
In Section 6.4 it shows a schematic of an Accessory Charger Adapter which is essentially what we need to achieve simultaneous charging and audio out (or other functions). It does not however give enough detail to implement. I have previously identified a Freescale chip which has been designe dto do this job, but hae been unable to identify any source from which to obtain one. In essence this is aimed at the peripheral manufacturers' -who might wish to design and market eg. a hands free car kit to which you could connect a microUSB On The Go spec device. However so far as I can discover there are no manufactureres who have as yet brought any related device to market. If anyone happens to have found anything somewhere across the globe - please shout !
Regards,
Kevin
Hello.
I'm trying to figure out and possible find a solution for why some headphones don't work with some phones?
For example a very well known brand Scullcandy. Their line of Skullcandy FIX Bud headphones work fine with Galaxy S2, but don't work with Galaxy S3, they also don't work with LG Nitro HD.
On GS3 they work for media playback, but when trying dial out or answer a call, the phone totally disconnects the headphones, the icon that shows when headphones are plugged in is no longer showed and at that point one has to physically re-plug the headphones in order to use them for media playback.
It does sound like phone's software issue, I sure hope so and there is a way fix it...
Another phone I had bad experience was LG Nitro HD. Even though the phone is totally waste of money it don't accept any iphone type headphones, they might work for playback, but mic or buttons don't work.
So what could possibly causing this issues?
I've tried post on phone related sections, but got no answers...
I also tried contact Samsung support regarding this issue, but they simply blew me off with "we don't provide support for 3nd hardware". Now I'm waiting for an answer from Skullcandy support.
Any ideas?
Thank you.
Probably the 3-pin layout of your phone. some are really weird in the way they work
x10man
There might be a couple reasons. The first is the connector. Some headsets use a three pole connector while others use a four pole connector. The other issue will likely be he pin out. The headphone jack might be a standard mechanical interface but not electrically. Both are hard problems but an adapter cable might help you.
All headphones connectors in question are 4 pin type, without using micrometer they look identical. Since all these headphones works fine in mp3 players, where only 3 pin connectors used, means the 3 out of 4 pins are in proper places and connected properly inside the wire.
So, without taking headphones apart it seems physically there is nothing different between them.
In addition, if there would be something physically wrong, it would not explain, why SGS3 sense when Skullcandy headphones connected, it shows headphones icon, but when a phone call initialized it "forgets" about it.
It sure seem to me like software related..
While I was trying my car radio mods for a jack input, I probably make for error a short citcuit to some cable at 12v with my phone jack output
My phone crashed and restarted itself. All seems ok, but now when I try to use my jack output (for example with normal headphones) I have a lot of background noise, and when I try to turn up the volume above a certain treshold, I get a lot of distortion and the music is not "listenable" (simply horrible, only strange sounds distorted and so on..).
I have another photon Q (FAIL sim mod but working) and I was trying to see the resistence values from the jack output to the components near the output, but I can't se any differences with my headphone-broken-board.
The music works well if I use the internal speaker, the problem is only with headphone, jack output.
Someone can help me? Someone have the circuit of the board near the jack out to understand what I have burned out?
I hope so
Try replacing the jack from your other only held in with double sided tape
Sent from my XT897 using Tapatalk
You might want to use a bluetooth headset with a headphone jack in the future. Just to make sure that the actual expensive thing won't get hurt.
With such bluetooth headset you don't even need the jack at your Photon Q
I assume that some resistor or fuse has been blown up.
But I don't have experience in such things.
thanks for your replies!
bluetooth is good idea, I was considering also a microUSB to jack out, so I don't waste energy for bluetooth connection.. do you know if photon q can handle jack out from microUSB or microHDMI out?
I have replaced the back cover with the other one of the 'good working' phone, but the problem is here.. I think some resistors or capacitor is broken, it seems a filtering issue or a output impedance issue.
I could remove resistors from the other board and solder in my board, but I don't know what is broken and I don't know the circuit logic.
would love to repair circuit, otherwise I could solder a micro hdmi/usb to jack out in the phone to replace the standard jack out.. ahah! But is not so easy
Over microHDMI it can but only digital, not analog. Useless for a car radio.
Never tried over microUSB. But I think it's also digital.
The energy which is lost because of bluetooth is not really more than the analog sound over the headphone jack.
Listening music for about 6 hours (with sometimes texting/surfing for about 50 minutes) I get nearly 40% battery used.
Bluetooth is on, day and night. As long as it is not connected to anything, the energy usage is nearly zero.
Loader009 said:
Over microHDMI it can but only digital, not analog. Useless for a car radio.
Never tried over microUSB. But I think it's also digital.
The energy which is lost because of bluetooth is not really more than the analog sound over the headphone jack.
Listening music for about 6 hours (with sometimes texting/surfing for about 50 minutes) I get nearly 40% battery used.
Bluetooth is on, day and night. As long as it is not connected to anything, the energy usage is nearly zero.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks for your info. I have never used bluetooth so much
But what about similar cables: http://it.aliexpress.com/item/Micro...er-For-Nokia-E52-E72-N900-8600/547805050.html
Perhaps some phone can handle analog output from microusb?
If photon q is able to do this, and if in that cable is not present some type of circuit, i can solder the correct cables from microusb to standard jack out. I could lose mic input, but I don't use it..
I'll try to find similar cables in my zone for testing, before buy it
edit: this thread is great http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1321491
i think that soldering similar things in my phone I could never use my usb port for data again
for now I'll buy similar cable. I hope to find a way to repair my board anyway
If you have a microUSB cable, you could theoretically cut it and try it out.
But you need to know the correct colorcode for this cable, maybe wikipedia is useful.
Still, I think the audio over microUSB is only for the docking station.
(Never tried that, pure theory.)
This cable should do what you need: http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Audio-Power-SKN6394A-Bionic/dp/B00H8YATYI
It comes with the original Photon Q car dock and when it's connected, the phone switches to EMU audio output - analogue audio output on USB pins.
I've done the coding work so this cable is supported in CM 10.2/11 (changes to kernel, audio HAL and framework).
I haven't tried to figure out how it's actually wired and what resistor values are used between what pins so the connection of this cable is recognized by the phone as there was no need for me - the cable I have works just fine. I can try to measure it if you need it, but I unfortunately can't promise when I actually find the time for it - I would need to make some preparation with usb female connectors I don't have handy currently.
Your issue sounds like you've damaged some part of the headphone amplifier. I don't know the hardware details of how it's exactly wired in the case of Photon Q. I suppose it's using a separate Speaker amplifier TPA2015D1 (as used in Atrix HD), but the headphone output may be coming almost directly from the WCD9310 headphone output. Not sure.
kabaldan said:
This cable should do what you need: http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Audio-Power-SKN6394A-Bionic/dp/B00H8YATYI
It comes with the original Photon Q car dock and when it's connected, the phone switches to EMU audio output - analogue audio output on USB pins.
I've done the coding work so this cable is supported in CM 10.2/11 (changes to kernel, audio HAL and framework).
I haven't tried to figure out how it's actually wired and what resistor values are used between what pins so the connection of this cable is recognized by the phone as there was no need for me - the cable I have works just fine. I can try to measure it if you need it, but I unfortunately can't promise when I actually find the time for it - I would need to make some preparation with usb female connectors I don't have handy currently.
Your issue sounds like you've damaged some part of the headphone amplifier. I don't know the hardware details of how it's exactly wired in the case of Photon Q. I suppose it's using a separate Speaker amplifier TPA2015D1 (as used in Atrix HD), but the headphone output may be coming almost directly from the WCD9310 headphone output. Not sure.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your help.
I'll buy one of these cable for now, but I would like to repair anyway my photon Q headphone output.
I could find this WCD9310 in the board: I have a rework station so I could swap that chip from my other photon Q hoping to solve the issue..
But the output signal in headphones seems disturbed, usually I know that the digital electronics either works or it does not work .. it seems a problem of analog electronics, filtering or output impedance. I'm wrong? Or maybe within the WCD9310 there is some analog circuit?
nagash91 said:
Thanks for your help.
I'll buy one of these cable for now, but I would like to repair anyway my photon Q headphone output.
I could find this WCD9310 in the board: I have a rework station so I could swap that chip from my other photon Q hoping to solve the issue..
But the output signal in headphones seems disturbed, usually I know that the digital electronics either works or it does not work .. it seems a problem of analog electronics, filtering or output impedance. I'm wrong? Or maybe within the WCD9310 there is some analog circuit?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Qualcomm proprietary audio hub WCD9310 contains also integrated headphone amplifier.
See the MSM8960/PM8921/WCD9310 reference design schematics:
http://d-h.st/xJ9
Sheets 28 and 29.
You can see that there are only resistors and transient voltage suppressors between the headphone jack and WCD9310 HPH outputs.
kabaldan said:
The Qualcomm proprietary audio hub WCD9310 contains also integrated headphone amplifier.
See the MSM8960/PM8921/WCD9310 reference design schematics:
http://d-h.st/xJ9
Sheets 28 and 29.
You can see that there are only resistors and transient voltage suppressors between the headphone jack and WCD9310 HPH outputs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're giving me a great help, thank you.
Unfortunately I'm not so good with integrated circuit or similar.
What I can understand from the sheets:
- J6 JA13331-SW38-4F at top-right of sheet 29 is the jack output socket.
- Pin 1 and 4 are right and left headphone signals.
- As you said, the pin 1 and 4 goes to the WCD9310: HPH_LP pin 12, HPH_RM pin 17, and HPH_REF pin 18 (i think is the headset "gnd")
- As you said, between pin 1 and pin 4 of jack input and the WCD9310, there are only resistors, capacitors, and voltage suppressors.
So I understand: the problem are these voltage suppressors or capacitors or resistors or WCD9310 ! :laugh:
You said that probably is WCD9310.. you are more expert than me of coures, and I hope the only problem is the WCD9310 because is the easier component to locate and replace!
I could try to swap the WCD9310, but I don't know where is locate in photon Q, and all IC in the board are covered from metal cases.
I can remove all the metal covers from my 2nd photon Q until I find WCD9310.. but I'll destroy that board definitively.
It is possible that there is so little information on the photon q on the internet? I would like to find a circuit schematics, or at least an info about how the IC are placed in the board.
Good news!!!!!!
I have found WCD9310 in my broken board!!
I'll remove also the other two "capsule" and I'll make a detailed photo, it could be usefull for other problems :laugh:
back with SanDisk 8gb "ssd":
Hallo,
I got my new MTCD head unit. Its this one:
http://www.erisinwholesale.com/special-car-dvd/audi/erisin-es3078a-7-android-51-car-dvd-gps-dab-for-audi-a4-497.html
I have dont done much testing yet, but i want to connect my external mic first.
The HU is delivered with an small additional harness that included a external mic and a 4-pin connector on the other end. (see attached photo - connector E)
I want to cut this harness and solder a standard mic-jack onto it.
(and then desolder the internal mic)
Does anyone know the pin-out of this 4-Pin connector?!
I guess this is standard on many of the newer MTCD units?!
check with ohmeter the ohm value between gnd and signal and use similar specs mic.
Dear OP, Im very interested in you project. I have nearly the same unit but for A3. I also wanted to wait with the mic until i come up with a better solution than using the one which came with it. Do you know how to disable the standard handsfree function of the car? Now the "Mode" button always messes with the Mode of the headunit. Where is the cars' mic plugged into? How can I access this spot?
in some (i think it was russian) forum i came across the ROM wich connects via Bluetooth to the standard handsfree of the car before calling. But with the standard Rom so far i was not able to conect to it.
PS: Does your unit snap into the DIN booth like the original radio? Mine does not snap in and therefore is kinda loose
i am not sure how to measure the correct ohm value of a mic.
If i connect my multimeter to the factory ext. mic, i see 1,325 kOhm
If i connect it to my parrot mic, i see 1,660kOhm (i have attached a photo of this mic)
But anyhow, i am more interessted in the 4-pin plug, this head unit uses for the ext. mic. hook up.
As you can see on the attached photos, the lower two pins are jumpered.
And the upper two pins go to the mic.
I also found, that one of those two lower pins is a 5V supply on the head unit.
So this harness of the factory external mic seems to have some sort of switch function also...
But i am not sure, what it does...
And to answer Mighty_X´s questions:
I have no "mode" button on my head unit. Not sure, what you mean.?!
On my older MTCB unit, i just cutted the wires to the internal mic, and connected my parrot mic to the ext. mic connection.
But here, on this new Erisin MTCD, all connectors at the back of the unit are different...
regarding accuracy of fit:
The head unit didn´t fit in perfectly. Its a little bit wider at the bottom, than the original radio. If you carefully push a little harder you get it into a very good position. The cars dashboard is flexible enough for that. But thats not really a problem and its definitely not loose.
Pedaaa said:
And to answer Mighty_X´s questions:
I have no "mode" button on my head unit. Not sure, what you mean.?!
On my older MTCB unit, i just cutted the wires to the internal mic, and connected my parrot mic to the ext. mic connection.
But here, on this new Erisin MTCD, all connectors at the back of the unit are different...
regarding accuracy of fit:
The head unit didn´t fit in perfectly. Its a little bit wider at the bottom, than the original radio. If you carefully push a little harder you get it into a very good position. The cars dashboard is flexible enough for that. But thats not really a problem and its definitely not loose.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your answer. I was refering to the Mode Button on the steering wheel.
Ahh, OK sorry
I only have the standard steering wheel without any buttons, so i can't comment on this
dont worry about 4pin conn, just check that the mic you want to use in head unit support that ohm input, otherwise the sound quality wont be good, just make "test-fail" until you get good result. just connect to 2 wires mic the mic you want to test...
But i do worry about this 4-Pin connector
If you connect the original ext.mic, the lower 2 pins are jumpered.
What internal effect would this have?
Is it just an input, that an ext. mic is connected?!
But why? Would the singals of the mic wont work without this input?
Or will this input maybe disable the internal mic?!
Then we wouldnt need to do the mod, by desolder or cut the internal mic on such units.
Thats just my thoughts, but i haven't done testing yet. Also i am not sure how i could figure it out exactly...
Pedaaa said:
But i do worry about this 4-Pin connector
If you connect the original ext.mic, the lower 2 pins are jumpered.
What internal effect would this have?
[..]
Thats just my thoughts[...]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, on my unit (Erisin 3047A) the ONLY reason why the lower 2 pins are "jumpered" is purely a mechanical issue: By having 4 wires and tied them together using a cable tie the two upper (small) cables are fixed in place. So: No actual use, just for mechanical reasons.
Did you have a cable tie on your 4 wires? From your pictures I cannot see it, perhaps you removed it?
Well, I just used my external micro from the installation before, and it works great.
Kind regards,
hardcoded74
Hi,
Ok, there were no reasons for my concerns.
I unsoldered the interal mic.
And then i soldered a headphone jack to the two wires of the original ext. mic harness.
The didnt touch the lower jumper wire.
And now:
It works great with my parrot mic! No echo, and really good quality in general! I am very happy now.
I also now installed a time-delay-relay for my rear view cam. Now the cam keeps going for apprx. 8 seconds, if i change to forward gears. Thats a great improvement also, that i can recommend
Pic of the modified harness
please poiint out, what headphone you used for this and the cables (by color) you connected to. (red to white for example)
thanks
Hello,
I use a PR2627 Parrot Twin Mic.
I cutted the standard ext mic and soldered a 2,5mm female jack instead of it. The white lead from the original cable goes to the "left" connection on the jack.
So the tip of the male 2,5mm pin will contact the white cable.
The black lead goes to the ground connection of the jack.
Thats it.
So, i use this Stereo mic only as a mono mic.
But it works great.
But i have to say also the original ext. mic. isnt that bad, if you disconnect the internal one.
I want to try to use the original Audi microphone. The ohmmeter says the Audi is 7,9kOhm and the mic wich came with the Erisin is 0.9kOhm. Is it possible to get good results here? What do you guys think?
I ll have to search were the wire goes wich is not to easy in Audi A3 (at least for me)
Edit: Like I thought the quality of the original mic used with the new head unit is pretty poor. dumb and very quiet. Not sure now if i get another mic, use the erisin one or maybe try a mic amplifier..
So if I understand this correct, the headunit keeps using the signal from the internal mic, even if there is an external mic connected? In essence, it gets mixed? No wonder everybody on the other end of the line is complaining that they don't understand a word I'm saying.
Is it easy to unsolder the internal mic?
HVB83 said:
So if I understand this correct, the headunit keeps using the signal from the internal mic, even if there is an external mic connected? In essence, it gets mixed? No wonder everybody on the other end of the line is complaining that they don't understand a word I'm saying.
Is it easy to unsolder the internal mic?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can someone confirm this or disagree?
Mighty_X said:
Can someone confirm this or disagree?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You couldnt find the answer in the entire thread devoted to this issue Yes; if an an external mic input is factory, it is in parallel with the internal mic. This is a rookie design mistake.
Is there a way to change sensitivity of the external mic input? Did not find an option in the factory settings..
I unsoldered the internal mic now too. After first tests I can say say that doing that had no effect on the input sound quality or anything at all. And i found out that the internal and external mic wich came with it arethe same piece of hardware. I still wonder if there is a way to increase intensity of the mic without going over hardware amplifier. Have a kinda newer Ersisin model I guess