Related
every thing seems to be the same
though there are differences in the sound output
pin 19 must be connected to ground for sound through the connector
pin 19 cant be connected to +6v or else the whole xda2 is not responding anymore
pin 1 (mic) must be amplified
going to buy a small mic ampliefier on 12v tomorrow
Hmm, considering people still use their XDA I carkit, i suppose it should work...
However, the audio i tapped from the bottom connector is dead too...
Only hing i can think of is that HTC rewired it so the bottom connector only gives audio if you ground Pin 19 (Car_on).
If your 100% on pin 3 & 4 being #ground, they might have made audio mono, and switched pin 2 & 3, audio out on pin 2 and ground on pin 3. For audio that would still work...
Btw the headset-out is filled with a rubber piece, not handy for quickly attaching an audiopug i'm tinking of cutting it, but that's a bit drastic for a temporary workaround to use audio-out...
jpiek said:
Btw the headset-out is filled with a rubber piece, not handy for quickly attaching an audiopug i'm tinking of cutting it, but that's a bit drastic for a temporary workaround to use audio-out...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You took the words straight out of my mouth :?
All i really want is a Bluetooth handsfree profile !!! :twisted:
tomorrow morning ill try to get it working
maybe if i put +6v to CAR_ON it helps
the phone goes to speaker mode
maybe micfroon will work then to
audio pins are the same
so mic in would be pin 1
i think there is only a slight difference
audio was normally always been put through the connector
not it isnt anymore
**update
the connector is the same
the 19 pin function is different
+ will block every function of this phone, so thats the problem with my own carkit, i have connected it this way
- will send audio only through the connector
problem is now that i want to use a mic
when i connect a mic to pin 1 and GND, there is not sound
i know that pin one really is the mic, cause when i tap the tip of the wire while recording audio or test calling i hear ticks..
what kind of microfoon must i connect to pin one
must the same as the carkit version i think
or what connection will let the xda2 go into speaker mode auto
also there is no audio being put through the connector if pin 19 is not connected to ground
**update
also very intresting and maybe my awnser
http://www.xda-developers.com/forum...tart=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=mic
akira said:
maybe if i put +6v to CAR_ON it helps
the phone goes to speaker mode
maybe micfroon will work then to
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In speakermode you dont't have audio trough the connector...
the connector is the same
the 19 pin function is different
+ will block every function of this phone, so thats the problem with my own carkit, i have connected it this way
- will send audio only through the connector
problem is now that i want to use a mic
when i connect a mic to pin 1 and GND, there is not sound
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the opposite problem, i want audio-out for a external speaker, but no ext. mic. (din't get one to work).
what kind of microfoon must i connect to pin one
One that doesn't want a wire to any power.
I bet one of an old nokai headset might work...
or what connection will let the xda2 go into speaker mode auto
also there is no audio being put through the connector if pin 19 is not connected to ground
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you sure the wiring is the same, or are you just guessing ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Quote:
or what connection will let the xda2 go into speaker mode auto
also there is no audio being put through the connector if pin 19 is not connected to ground
Are you sure the wiring is the same, or are you just guessing ?
i am sure
i have tested loads of micrfoons
from nokia headset etc
external sound source is the awnser
i connected a mp3 player and it records fine
now i just need to make an external sound aplifiar for the microfoon
and set pin 19 to GND then its all done
got some old nokia carkit
maybe i can mod it
You mean you got te mic-in to accept audio, but only from an amplified source like a MP3-player ?
Here on xda-developers.com the said the mic-in should't be amplified...
But, hey, they can be wrong to...
when i connect a normal mic (tested 4 different ones) there is absolute sillence
when i connect my mp3 player and turn up the volume then there is sweet sound
Ok, talked to the techie-colleage today :
Headset mic is a condensator mic.
pulls approx. 1V (from audio signal)
What we need is a 'spool'-mic, they seem to be a bit more rare than te condensator ones... these pull approx. 0,6V His thoughs where to use a small speaker and test if it will work as a mic. Then try a real mic...
Or get a velleman kit with condens.mic and amplification
On XDA2 pin2 is NOT GND !
I agree with last post, pin2 in XDA2 is not conected to GND pins 5, 16, 17,18 (all them connected)
When I ground pin2, a little beep (wav) is heard, but nothing seems to happen.
Can anybody point what's the use for pin2 ??
I'm trying to build my own car kit with no success:
I can´t obtain audio out whith or without grounding pin19
I must correct my last update.
I obtain audio when in phone mode, but not during playing waves or TomTom instructions. Even Ring Tones do not go out trough the bottom connector.
So is it a software problem ?
Can function of pin2 br related to this ??
Anybody knows 100% XDA2 connectro pinout ??
myxda web page states that most of the accesories from xda1 will NOT work on xda2
PIN 2 IS ground, or the XDA 1 carkit wouldn't give any sound in combination with an XDA 2 !
The XDA 2 seems to give sound ONLY for phone be it through carkit or BT headset.
If that's true, and if that's the hardware on the XDA 2 then i want my XDA 1 back !!!
is there any solution yet to fix the bad audio quality at the connectors car_audio r/l ?
Is there any way listen to Radio without using the cable? just bluetooth handsfree for example?
AFAIK the cable acts as an antennae.
cable/controller acts as a radio receiver so i doubt it.
so if i install the radio program to my qtek s200 and jack the headset of touch cruise , s200 will play radio?
i5t sounds crazy but as you say cable/controller acts as a radio receiver , so the phone by it self has no radio chip or something....
It won´t work on a Neo.
The TC has an inbuilt radio chip but no inbuilt radio antenna. You need the headset or the HTC W100 adapter as an antenna. Otherwise the radio on the TC doesn´t start.
Best regards
Starwalker
Ok ok.. it was just an idea.. now i was trying to push all the sounds to my bluetooth headset with a bluetooth application but in vain...
Ok guys !
Maybe by streaming but I haven't tried it yet.
and if I connect a simple thin wire on the good pin of the mini usb plug ? will it work ?
calarfe said:
and if I connect a simple thin wire on the good pin of the mini usb plug ? will it work ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think so. I think there is another pin on the connector that is linked to either GND or +5V and is used by the TC to detect whether the headset adaptor is plugged in. If the FM Radio app doesn't detect that the headset is plugged in then it will assume that no aerial is present, even if you have your thin wire. You can see this in action by just launching the FM radio app without the headset plugged in and it will give you an error message and refuse to go any further.
The $1000 question is what two pins to bridge to satisfy the headset-present test? Unfortunately I don't know this although I did see a site somewhere that has a full wiring diagram but like an idiot I didn't bookmark it and have never been able to find it again.
- Julian
By streaming and a BT headset it's perfect!
Some more information here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=362739&page=2. Ciao
JulianL said:
I don't think so. I think there is another pin on the connector that is linked to either GND or +5V and is used by the TC to detect whether the headset adaptor is plugged in. If the FM Radio app doesn't detect that the headset is plugged in then it will assume that no aerial is present, even if you have your thin wire. You can see this in action by just launching the FM radio app without the headset plugged in and it will give you an error message and refuse to go any further.
The $1000 question is what two pins to bridge to satisfy the headset-present test? Unfortunately I don't know this although I did see a site somewhere that has a full wiring diagram but like an idiot I didn't bookmark it and have never been able to find it again.
- Julian
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=284512 - there you go mate ;].
leez said:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=284512 - there you go mate ;].
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
D'oh. It was on this forum all the time . Thanks Leez.
- Julian
Hello,
I've got MTCE unit (PX3) that I'm trying to install into Toyota truck. I've had another unit in previously and it had a reversing camera that was activated when the reverse was engaged by a dedicated wire in a harness. I've connected my camera to Video-In connector (H-5 on the attached harness). I can see video fine if I run AVID application, so this is working. What is not working is automatic engagement when I put the car in the reverse.
I can't seems to find a dedicated reverse signal. I understand that it may detect reverse through CanBus and I've connected included CanBus decoder to the unit, however it still doesn't work.
Am I missing something and what would the recommended troubleshooting suggestions?
Hi,
You are doing it wrong. You should not connect the video signal to Video IN of the unit. This way - the picture will show only when you launch the AVIN application. You should connect it to the CAMERA or REVERSE labeled plug. What is the G plug for ? Is it for a reverse camera or Car DVR ?
You can power up the camera (+12V and GND) from the white reverse light.
Thanks for the reply, however I can't sadly see any REVERSE or CAMERA labeled connectors on my unit. Plug G has microphone cable and that is it (see attached). Plug H has also a connector labeled DR-V and main connector has something labeled CCD-IN. I've tried plugging my camera to these connectors and sadly none of them seems to show camera feed when the reverse is engaged. Any other ideas on how I can get camera to work?
SuperPuper2K said:
Thanks for the reply, however I can't sadly see any REVERSE or CAMERA labeled connectors on my unit. Plug G has microphone cable and that is it (see attached). Plug H has also a connector labeled DR-V and main connector has something labeled CCD-IN. I've tried plugging my camera to these connectors and sadly none of them seems to show camera feed when the reverse is engaged. Any other ideas on how I can get camera to work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When you bought it, was it advertised as having this capability? If so, I'd try to get a refund. Mine (and most others that I've seen) that have reverse functionality have a dedicated video in line that's labeled as such.
See K 5 and 6.
Hazard15301 said:
When you bought it, was it advertised as having this capability? If so, I'd try to get a refund. Mine (and most others that I've seen) that have reverse functionality have a dedicated video in line that's labeled as such.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, the unit has reversing camera as an option and sadly the seller is less then helpful in resolving this issue. Having looked on the forums I can see that even when the camera is not connected the head unit should switch to black screen when reverse is engaged. In my case it doesn't do that. Does it mean that something is not working with CAN bus decoder? I've looked through factory settings and tried all options available for my car manufacturer and sadly they didn't make any difference.
Is there a way to test CAN bus decoder to see if it is working at all or not?
I have a reversing camera problem albeit a different one, that's been worse today. Sometimes after I finish reversing the camera image stays on the screen, frozen. I don't know if something's wrong with the reverse detection input or the camera video signal. I've had this with other units of the same model (KSP) or at least they were also MTCD PX5. My thought is to play with the resistances to the MCU. For now if I reboot it's back to normal.
SuperPuper2K said:
Am I missing something and what would the recommended troubleshooting suggestions?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your reverse camera should go to the main power connector 5th pin(CAM-IN) and reverse trigger line should go to 6th pin(CAM-LINE).
Ideally your main power connector should have yellow video in connector which connects ground and 5th pin.
smnrock said:
Your reverse camera should go to the main power connector 5th pin(CAM-IN) and reverse trigger line should go to 6th pin(CAM-LINE).
Ideally your main power connector should have yellow video in connector which connects ground and 5th pin.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You've just made my day. This was exactly the solution to my issue. The wires were connected to some strange connector, however after I've rewired it to my camera everything started working just fine.
Thanks a lot for your help.
hello
I have exact same issue, with wireless camera connector , have yellow connector to ccd in and nothing changes maybe somebody could draw scheme how to connect to head unit , have same connector.
Hi
I have purchased an Android HeadUnit for my Renault Megane 2 (2007) from AliExpress. Every function works except the steering wheel controls. The unit has the UIS7862 CPU @1.8Ghz, 6gb Ram and 128gb storage. I have installed the CanBox correctly and tried many CanBox settings in factory menu, but I cannot get the control app to enter learning mode. Does anyone have any idea? Maybe the built in key map application is at fault (com.syu.steer).
Did you find a solution to your problem yet?
I'm stuck at the exact same scenario, same unit. The support over at AliExpress mention to me to select "XP" for canbox settings. However, my canbus module is by Raise, hence I should be using the "RZC"
Also, my reverse cam doesnt work too.
Pls share your findings. Thank you!
I got the steering wheel keys to work with a custom controller made by an engineer in my country specifically for my car and my HeadUnit. The controller is connected directly to the wheel controls and the "key" wire on my HeadUnit. I had to disassembly the steering wheel base and route the cable around the original one. Now I can map every key to an action in the Key Learning app. For the backup camera, because I used a wireless kit, I couldn't use the "back" camera wire to trigger the HeadUnit to switch to it. The kit came with a receiver which only had power wires and a yellow RCA cable. I wired the receiver's power cables to the ACC power so that the receiver only powers on when the engine is running and I managed to map a button on the steering wheel to switch to the RCA input. Now when I want to use back up camera, I just need to press a button to see the image. The camera's transmitter is wired to the license plate bulb and I managed to fit it in the rear bumper.
This wasn't a "plug and play" experience that the Chinese seller promised, but overall I can say I am pretty happy with the end result. The audio quality is wayyy better than the stock HeadUnit. I didn't know that my stock speakers could get that loud and have so much bass. The DSP chip does it's job wonderfully. Also the radio reception is better than with the stock unit. The Android HeadUnit is fast and snappy. Apps open almost instantly and those 6gb of ram really help. I could compare the overall user experience with my OnePlus 7 phone. The unit also cold boots very quickly. The wifi reception is pretty poor. The unit shows 75% signal when my phone is in the car. It doesn't bother me because I put a Sim card in the unit and the mobile reception is as good as on my phone.
andrei-2200 said:
I got the steering wheel keys to work with a custom controller made by an engineer in my country specifically for my car and my HeadUnit. The controller is connected directly to the wheel controls and the "key" wire on my HeadUnit. I had to disassembly the steering wheel base and route the cable around the original one. Now I can map every key to an action in the Key Learning app. For the backup camera, because I used a wireless kit, I couldn't use the "back" camera wire to trigger the HeadUnit to switch to it. The kit came with a receiver which only had power wires and a yellow RCA cable. I wired the receiver's power cables to the ACC power so that the receiver only powers on when the engine is running and I managed to map a button on the steering wheel to switch to the RCA input. Now when I want to use back up camera, I just need to press a button to see the image. The camera's transmitter is wired to the license plate bulb and I managed to fit it in the rear bumper.
This wasn't a "plug and play" experience that the Chinese seller promised, but overall I can say I am pretty happy with the end result. The audio quality is wayyy better than the stock HeadUnit. I didn't know that my stock speakers could get that loud and have so much bass. The DSP chip does it's job wonderfully. Also the radio reception is better than with the stock unit. The Android HeadUnit is fast and snappy. Apps open almost instantly and those 6gb of ram really help. I could compare the overall user experience with my OnePlus 7 phone. The unit also cold boots very quickly. The wifi reception is pretty poor. The unit shows 75% signal when my phone is in the car. It doesn't bother me because I put a Sim card in the unit and the mobile reception is as good as on my phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for explaining your solution. Seems like quite a bit of work.
I managed to get my steering controls working finally. Got the correct canbus setting and corrected a connection.
Now, I'm stull stuck with the reverse cam issue. The +12V does energize when I am in reverse gear - I tested this when I connected my cam to DV-in and cam turns on only when in reverse.
But I just don't understand why the Android won't switch to Cam in during reverse gear.
Will continue to seek help from the manufacturer. Otherwise, it's a great HU as you said. Awesome speed!
MasK said:
Thank you for explaining your solution. Seems like quite a bit of work.
I managed to get my steering controls working finally. Got the correct canbus setting and corrected a connection.
Now, I'm stull stuck with the reverse cam issue. The +12V does energize when I am in reverse gear - I tested this when I connected my cam to DV-in and cam turns on only when in reverse.
But I just don't understand why the Android won't switch to Cam in during reverse gear.
Will continue to seek help from the manufacturer. Otherwise, it's a great HU as you said. Awesome speed!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You connected the reverse wire?
Maybe this triggers the camera view of it doesn't work via the canbus.
Well, it does work via canbus, just doesnt switch to cam input automatically. Perhaps its some software settings.
MasK said:
Well, it does work via canbus, just doesnt switch to cam input automatically. Perhaps its some software settings.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not all canbus provide the reverse signal. So maybe you have to provide the reverse signal on the separate input.
TorstenH said:
Not all canbus provide the reverse signal. So maybe you have to provide the reverse signal on the separate input.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I feel that the HU knows when I am referring (CANBUS might be working here), because the 12V turns on when Im in reverse. The only issue is the HU doesnt switch to the cam automatically. Looks to me like a SW issue. Still awaiting reply from manufacturer.
Also, I realised my backward/forward buttons are swapped. Why is it I can't re-learn them?
It may not be the same for the Navifly, but on my unit, G5 must get the proper voltage to "detect" the car has been put in reverse. I'm re-using my factory rear view camera and it's a 6.5V camera. However, I had to up the voltage to 8.6V so that G5 go that voltage...then the rear image showed up. I reused the car wiring and that's why I had to do this.
Check the voltage that G5 is getting. With a canbus module, I believe there is a wire from the canbus going to G5. If no voltage, make sure the pins are in properly.
FYI, if you are using a canbus and the steering wheel controls go through the canbus, then I believe that you cannot remap the keys.
The 12 V from the reverse wire are coming from your car (or in some cases from the canbox if the information gets transmitted from car to the box via canbus).
My suggestion is:
There is a separate reverse connection (usually a brown wire) on the head unit which triggers the radio to open the app which shows the image of the reverse cam.
You could even connect ACC or B+ to the reverse connection for testing purposes.
mastrv said:
It may not be the same for the Navifly, but on my unit, G5 must get the proper voltage to "detect" the car has been put in reverse. I'm re-using my factory rear view camera and it's a 6.5V camera. However, I had to up the voltage to 8.6V so that G5 go that voltage...then the rear image showed up. I reused the car wiring and that's why I had to do this.
Check the voltage that G5 is getting. With a canbus module, I believe there is a wire from the canbus going to G5. If no voltage, make sure the pins are in properly.
FYI, if you are using a canbus and the steering wheel controls go through the canbus, then I believe that you cannot remap the keys.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Absolutely correct.
Thanks guys, but there is no other brown wire for this.
I have a discussion abt this on this thread too:
Medeke/Navifly 7862
Hi, Recently received above unit for my 2006 RS4. everything is great (much better then the M400 I had before) apart from the radio. It seemed to work for the first 2 days, then worked intermittently and now not at all. I have tried...
forum.xda-developers.com
My "cam12V" wire is from the HU and it turns on when I am in reverse. Does this mean that this signal might be coming from my canbus? If so, is there another input back to the HU to trigger the screen to display the video feed? Only other wires I see are AMP related
Give 12V to pin 2 and check if the app to display the image of the cam will start:
TorstenH said:
Give 12V to pin 2 and check if the app to display the image of the cam will start:
View attachment 5374441
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes! It took me a while to figure this out.. mainly because I'll have to cut the wire (wasn't very confident in that)
and also.. the wires at Pin2 didn't make sense! They were more like Battery12V. I did cut and tested that.
So.. it turns out its a pink wire at pin3!
I realized this as I looked at my old Dasaita wires from the canbus connector. Since canbus is a standard, they should be comparable. That reverse wire went into Pin3.
I'm really surprised that Mekede and Navifly has this pin layout printed in all their listings.. but it's just wrong.
Thanks alot for the help!
That means it works now? I think you had to cut the ACC wire according to the manual because the "ignition on" information is provided by the can box.
TorstenH said:
That means it works now? I think you had to cut the ACC wire according to the manual because the "ignition on" information is provided by the can box.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes it works now. Check out the images. The Pin2 (red) is probably ACC or batt 12V as there was no power when cut. I then cut the wire opposite it (pin10) in case I was looking at the connector wrongly. That turned out to be the headlight sensor.
After tracing the wire and comparing to my old Daisata, it turns out Pin3 (pink) is the reverse IN.
Excellent. Thanks for the clarification.
That means it makes sense to get the wiring diagram from the old radio of the car and compare it with the description of the new head unit.
In my case I had to completely rewire the harness (just if someone is interested):
Junsun V1 MTK8259 - the adapter battle (Kia Ceed Jd) / OEM camera usage / reference thread
I bought the Junsun V1 head unit but my Kia Ceed JD had a OEM nav unit which isn't directly compatible to Junsun V1. So I re-wired the wiring harness based on the pins description of my original OEM navigation unit. I'm only modifying the wiring...
forum.xda-developers.com
The only thing that I could compare to (between old and new HUs) is the canbus connectors. Rest cannot be compared as they're all different.
Oh well..
Anyways, the current Mekede I have has Radio chip NX6686. My old Dasaita PX5 also has a NX6686. However, the radio reception is absolutely trash in the new one. I dont listen to radio that often (I can resort to streaming radio) but my dad takes the car occasionally and he's already complained about it
Your experience on the harness rewiring is pretty intense!
Update: Turns out my Antenna connector was a tad loose and I had to do a re-connect. The radio reception is all good now
MasK said:
Thank you for explaining your solution. Seems like quite a bit of work.
I managed to get my steering controls working finally. Got the correct canbus setting and corrected a connection.
Now, I'm stull stuck with the reverse cam issue. The +12V does energize when I am in reverse gear - I tested this when I connected my cam to DV-in and cam turns on only when in reverse.
But I just don't understand why the Android won't switch to Cam in during reverse gear.
Will continue to seek help from the manufacturer. Otherwise, it's a great HU as you said. Awesome speed!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So you found correct canbus settings and connections .. i cant find anything about you sharing them
Hi all, first post. I have this Joying headunit installed in my Toyota Tacoma:
https://www.joyingauto.com/joying-latest-9-inch-android-10-0-car-gps-navigation-system-for-toyota-corolla-2017-2018.html
The issue is that the mics, internal and external, are awful. A ton of road noise and its just generally impossible for anyone to ever hear me (or anything besides a ton of static-y road noise crap).
I have read some posts on here and tried to fix it by doing these things so far:
cutting the wires from the internal mic completely so the external mic is the only one in use
replacing the Joying provided external mic with a better quality one
Still the issues remain the same.
I have read on other threads that this could be due to a poorly designed/laid out PCB by having alot of electrical interference from the connection of the external mic to the board over to the bluetooth module.
Should I try to disable the connection of the external mic and solder in some shielded wires directly to the connections on the bluetooth module?
I havent found anyone that has had this issue with this specific headunit so I'm just posting here for some guidance on what steps I can take next to sort this out.
Hello.
If you have factory settings and know PIn for access go to menu VOLUME and decrease volume for microphone or set it at value 0, then on menu OTHER activate option if you have it DENOISE.
Next step see that wires of mic (if external and connected on the back of unit) at the back are not damaged.
See also settings for bluetooth in factory settings on menus OTHER and VOLUME - bluetooth version must be at least set to value 4, at VOLUME set BT value 0 or +2 max.
You could try an usb microphone. Some head units support it and it would bypass all the pcb flaws.
Unfortunately this head unit does not support USB microphones and also there are no adjustable mic settings to access (even in developer/factory settings menu which require a passcode of "3368")
Any other ideas?
stressedstrain said:
Unfortunately this head unit does not support USB microphones and also there are no adjustable mic settings to access (even in developer/factory settings menu which require a passcode of "3368")
Any other ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Then it is internal mic. Go to settings of device and find any setting containing mic or audio controls, must be there. Or you can download and use LESSER audio switch application from Google play store and configure mic there if exists.
I have the same issue on the 10 inches JY-HQ101N4G for my civic. Below 50km/h the audio is ok. If I accelerate or drive more than 50km/h the other can't understand me. I recorded it and it's very awfull....
Unfortunately no usb or Bluetooth are supported... And disabling the internal mic with lesser seems to make it slightly worse.
Have someone found a solution on it or suggestion?
Thanks
If you have some option in car settings that control and volumes up or down sound when speeding deactivate it.
Found the issue for me that probably afflicts others.
The headunit microphone connector is metallized on the outside and, especially with the vibration from engine and suspensions, can touch the external metallic case causing bursts and distortions. The air between the connector and the case is less then 1mm.
It's enough to put an isolator tape around the connector and now it works perfectly. Unfortunately I had to open the case and remove the board to apply the tape.
ramonlap81 said:
Found the issue for me that probably afflicts others.
The headunit microphone connector is metallized on the outside and, especially with the vibration from engine and suspensions, can touch the external metallic case causing bursts and distortions. The air between the connector and the case is less then 1mm.
It's enough to put an isolator tape around the connector and now it works perfectly. Unfortunately I had to open the case and remove the board to apply the tape.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would certainly report this to Joying. Try to get some money back. This is clearly a production/design error.
Thanks for the tip! I had a similar problem and it worked for me.
blue_one said:
You could try an usb microphone. Some head units support it and it would bypass all the pcb flaws.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
blue_one said:
You could try an usb microphone. Some head units support it and it would bypass all the pcb flaws.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the tip! I had a similar problem and it worked for me.
ramonlap81 said:
Found the issue for me that probably afflicts others.
The headunit microphone connector is metallized on the outside and, especially with the vibration from engine and suspensions, can touch the external metallic case causing bursts and distortions. The air between the connector and the case is less then 1mm.
It's enough to put an isolator tape around the connector and now it works perfectly. Unfortunately I had to open the case and remove the board to apply the tape.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have any pictures of this?
I was able to fix the issue on a Mekede unit by finding a mic that happens to work well -- in my case it seemed to be an issue with mic specs rather than quality. I managed to find an inexpensive mic on amazon that worked really well. See my post here:
Mekede Headunit Microphone Quality
Folks, I'm at my wits end and hope someone here can help. I purchased a Mekede M300 Android head unit (I believe this is a rebranded Joying unit) over a month ago for my wife's Honda HR-V 2017. Installation was fairly straightforward and any...
forum.xda-developers.com
ramonlap81 said:
Found the issue for me that probably afflicts others.
The headunit microphone connector is metallized on the outside and, especially with the vibration from engine and suspensions, can touch the external metallic case causing bursts and distortions. The air between the connector and the case is less then 1mm.
It's enough to put an isolator tape around the connector and now it works perfectly. Unfortunately I had to open the case and remove the board to apply the tape.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i tried this over the weekend and so far so good! i actually had to drill out the hole a bit more to give a small air gap around it but i think its made a noticeable difference.
was a bit annoying to disassemble almost the entire unit to get the backplate standalone for drilling but only took about an hour start to finish.
thanks for the tip! only person ive seen suggest it at least in the searching that I did.
Does anyone know how to control the sensitivity of the BT microphone? External microphone connected. Please how to find fiction step by step. Thank you
Patryk1101 said:
Does anyone know how to control the sensitivity of the BT microphone? External microphone connected. Please how to find fiction step by step. Thank you
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Again??
How many times did you now ask this? Two people have pointed you to the possible config.txt options.
That is all there is to it.
Asking this again and again, will not help you.
just step by step?
surfer63 said:
Again??
How many times did you now ask this?
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18 of 19 posts directly asking this. The other 1 post is an image of system info.
Patryk1101 said:
Does anyone know how to control the sensitivity of the BT microphone? External microphone connected. Please how to find fiction step by step.
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It is all explained in the main General FYT based Spreadtrum uis7862 (unisoc ums512) - Q&A, Mods, tips, firmware thread.
It is necessary to do your own reading and research and put in some effort. Everything is detailed in that thread. Step by step instructions have also been posted for this and many other tweaks to the config.txt file.
People can't hold your hand every time.
I will put this as basic as I can, step by step...
Steps 1-4 create a backup. Step 5-6 explains the Bluetooth tweak, that didn't work for me.
1. Please download the backup script from here
2. You need a blank USB flash drive formatted as FAT32. Right click the USB drive in Windows and select Format, choose FAT32.
Extract the files to the root of the empty USB flash drive.
If you did this correctly when you open the flash drive you should see 1 folder and 7 files.
3. Insert the USB flash drive to your head unit and press start when you receive a popup saying firmware detected. If you don't get a popup then you did something wrong already. Go back and try 2 again.
4. The unit will restart with some script messages running. Let it complete and wait 5 seconds after it has finished then remove the USB flash drive.
You should now have a backup folder on the flash drive with 4 files (AllAppUpdate.bin, config.txt, updatecfg.txt and either lsec6315update or lsec6316update).
Keep this backup somewhere safe. The AllAppUpdate.bin and config.txt are what's needed to revert back to a previous state.
5. Take your config.txt file and add the following 4 lines at the bottom.
Code:
persist.sys.zlink.mic.vol=9.9
persist.audio.mic.senstivity=1
persist.btmic.gain=10
persist.btspk.gain=7
6. Put the modified config.txt and lsec6315update/lsec6316update on to an empty FAT32 USB flash drive and insert in to your head unit. Press start when prompted and let it reboot and flash the unit.
7. After doing all the above you will probably notice that it made very little difference or no difference at all. The external microphones provided with these head units are usually very cheap.
Buy a decent external microphone or connect your cars original mic if it has 1.
Originally I had terrible mic audio with both the internal and external mics.
I connected my cars OEM mic to the external mic jack and disabled the internal mic with tape on the ribbon cable. This tape has come off and the mic audio is still great.
j0hn83
Just take a video and put it here or link to it on google disk, or else it will be a hundred times more.
ramonlap81 said:
Found the issue for me that probably afflicts others.
The headunit microphone connector is metallized on the outside and, especially with the vibration from engine and suspensions, can touch the external metallic case causing bursts and distortions. The air between the connector and the case is less then 1mm.
It's enough to put an isolator tape around the connector and now it works perfectly. Unfortunately I had to open the case and remove the board to apply the tape.
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Can you please post a picture, from your description I can not come up with the right place/thing that needs to be isolated.