Alright, my phone got bricked because of a drop.
The touch on the screen doesn't work and is cracked, and the USB-C port looks damaged, but charges. Also Odin, ADB from TWRP doesn't see the phone. I don't understand how the phone got bricked because of a drop, so can someone fill me in? (Before the drop I had LineageOS 19.1 and Magisk to pixelify the phone, and it worked fine right before the drop and when it was all done.)
The SOC and other chipsets are BGA chipsets. There are numerous solder pads are under it. They are intolerant of board flexing. Any direct impact or high G loading spikes can damage both the mobo pcb, chipsets, component or their solder joints (including internal chipset damage)
Anything with enough force to crack the display may cause additional damage to mobo.
Always use a good case... it limits the impact G loading spike and provides direct impact protection.
Related
Hi friends
I am having an handset(Tilt) with flex cable problem, but wondering if flex cable can solve my phones problem where it is doing the following:
-Not accepting the SIM.
-phone is getting hanged any times, speed is also very pathetic.
-keypad is pressed on its own.
-Phone is not accepting any charger but charging with PC USB.
These are some of the major problems, I wish if someone could help me out in knowing what work does a flex cable plays, coz the technician is charging so much to change the flex cable & giving me no assurance as to what problems will be solved. I would like to know from some of those technicians here who knows something about hardware. Mike I am talking about you specially.
I would like to write this in our XDA encyclopedia given the case I get proper knowledge about it.
Looking forward to answers.
This is quite difficult to answer without testing. The SIM not being recognised will in itself slow down the phone or even create a full blown crash.
It's not stated what flex cable we are talking about. Flex Cables are just multi wire connections between circuit boards. Phones often have 3, 4 or more flex cables. For example between the the physical keypad and the motherboard or the d-pad and the LCD screen or between screen and motherboard etc etc.
It IS possible a flex cable can get damaged. This normally happens in phones with a slide out keyboard where the flex-cable has to roll back and forth as the keyboard slides in and out. However, such a cable would not I think change the charging behaviour of the phone.
It charges on PC connection but not charger connection. To me that normally indicates a USB port connection problem - bent pin in the slot, possibly even crossed pins or a cracked or dry solder joint between the usb port and the motherboard.
Another thing to consider is whether all the battery contacts are making good contact with the phone. Here again the multiple connections between battery and motherboard can become dry or cracked leading to erratic or underpowered connections.
The keypad being pressed on it's own can again be caused by different things:
1
It could be a faulty or loosley connected flex cable
2
Pressure being put on the digitizer screen by something under the bezel or just a damaged digitizer layer
3
A key that is not releasing from the keyboard properly (is it always the same key or group of keys?)
4
Moisture at many different places inside the phone, including keyboard, d-pad etc. Even when dried out, the residue or oxidisation can continue to cause problems.
So, I would not rule out a flex-cable problem, but it might not be the only fault. Unfortunately then, the technician you spoke to may be correct and it is not possible to guarantee it will solve all problems. Having said that, I would want to say to the technician that I am not going to pay for a new flex if it does not solve any of the problems.
This is where it becomes difficult to decide whether to go for paid for repair or to attempt the job yourself.
Mike
I have a Verizon Samsung Galaxy S3 model SCH-I535 and I was having an issue with the charge port causing a desktop mode to pop up when plugged into my truck. This was effectively preventing the phone from charging because the screen would stay on. I read on a forum that perhaps the pin was bent down slightly closing a circuit that was only intended for certain after-market peripherals like a desktop dock. I noticed that it was in fact bent down, and I tried to gently bring it up, only to break the piece altogether. Now it won't charge or recognize any usb connections. I've begun externally charging batteries and swapping them in the morning and evening, but this is a real inconvenience, especially when I think it could just be replaced. I believe it's within my skills to solder the micro usb port, however I can't find a verifiable source for the part. I'm not under warranty, as I've already replaced the screen once. There's a part on this website called witrigs (unable to post url) that claims to be appropriate, but there isn't much information there. Can someone verify that this part would, in fact, work with my phone, or is there perhaps a better place to find parts?
From what I have read the gs3 needs a hot air gun to desolder the plug not exceptionally difficult but does require the right tools and there is several things close to the plug that you need to worry about.
I think I'm capable of the replacement, but is there anything specific to the micro usb for this device that would prevent a more generic part from being used?
Ok, I have a realme 1 that is dying, I have posted on the new phone thread but I do not expect to get a phone that meets my needs better in all aspects.
**What phone should I buy next?** -- Not sure what device to buy? Ask here!
Hi everyone, This thread is a continuation of this thread. This is here so you can discuss what your next phone/tablet should be, if you're not sure what to pick. Also, if you need advice as to which device is better than another, then feel...
forum.xda-developers.com
The issue is that the micro USB connector is getting worn down and the battery discharges in a few hours. Even new I used to have days on which my battery 3950mAH would be exhausted by the end of the day.
I want to do the following thing
Replace the micro USB port with a USB C port. physically my phone is a plastic fantastic and I plan to carve/shave out the few mm with a knife/scalpel and fill any voids with a combination of expoy putty and expoxy glue. My problem is how to do the internal wiring. I have done some soldering but nothing on a PCB. The most fine work I have done is patch speaker wires. Every repair person i have talked to says that it is absolutely impossible to do. I would appreciate it if someone could walk me through it.
Realme has now released phones with a 6000 mAH battery, So I propose to separate the back cover, carve any obstructions, create any posts needed with epoxy putty, and fix the battery with hot glue. Again the problem is the connections. I realize that the thickness of the phone will increase due to this and plan to fill the gap with epoxy and hot glue.
Yes, I realize that my phone is going to be a Frankenstein's monster. As long it works well I don't care.
I would appreciate it if someone could guide me
amartsg852 said:
Ok, I have a realme 1 that is dying, I have posted on the new phone thread but I do not expect to get a phone that meets my needs better in all aspects.
**What phone should I buy next?** -- Not sure what device to buy? Ask here!
Hi everyone, This thread is a continuation of this thread. This is here so you can discuss what your next phone/tablet should be, if you're not sure what to pick. Also, if you need advice as to which device is better than another, then feel...
forum.xda-developers.com
The issue is that the micro USB connector is getting worn down and the battery discharges in a few hours. Even new I used to have days on which my battery 3950mAH would be exhausted by the end of the day.
I want to do the following thing
Replace the micro USB port with a USB C port. physically my phone is a plastic fantastic and I plan to carve/shave out the few mm with a knife/scalpel and fill any voids with a combination of expoy putty and expoxy glue. My problem is how to do the internal wiring. I have done some soldering but nothing on a PCB. The most fine work I have done is patch speaker wires. Every repair person i have talked to says that it is absolutely impossible to do. I would appreciate it if someone could walk me through it.
Realme has now released phones with a 6000 mAH battery, So I propose to separate the back cover, carve any obstructions, create any posts needed with epoxy putty, and fix the battery with hot glue. Again the problem is the connections. I realize that the thickness of the phone will increase due to this and plan to fill the gap with epoxy and hot glue.
Yes, I realize that my phone is going to be a Frankenstein's monster. As long it works well I don't care.
I would appreciate it if someone could guide me
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You know you can get a USB C chip for really cheap (compatible with the processor)? All youd have to do then is attach the ribbon cables, enlarge the port hole and test to see if power passes through with a cable. Make sure not to use too much glue, however, because when the phone heats up the glue may melt and run over the motherboard, resulting in a ruined phone.
Varis2X21 said:
You know you can get a USB C chip for really cheap (compatible with the processor)? All youd have to do then is attach the ribbon cables, enlarge the port hole and test to see if power passes through with a cable. Make sure not to use too much glue, however, because when the phone heats up the glue may melt and run over the motherboard, resulting in a ruined phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was already prepared to enlarge the opening, please tell me about this chip. where Can i find more information on that?
amartsg852 said:
I was already prepared to enlarge the opening, please tell me about this chip. where Can i find more information on that?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is actually a YouTuber that I conveniently forgot the name of... But he does DIY projects like this, like adding a headphone jack to iPhone 7s and stuff. Call if modding. But his parts come from Chinese marketplaces. I would suggest you research a USB C component chip. Not sure how old your phone is but they are basically universal depending on the OS supported hardware (like Android 9+ supporting QC3.0).
Thank you again for replying. I do not need quick charge. It came with 2A 10 W chip, and that's enough. Cannot I connect the USB C port to the input on my phone. Most USB C implementations are USB 2.0, SO that SHOULD be 4 pins and 5v at max 2 A.
Problem is that that the repair centers are assuring me that is not the case.
Hello,
After dropping my phone on the floor, my phone is stuck in headphone mode. I have tried a hard reset, and cleaned the jack plug but no luck.
I have also tried different apps that let me change audio output but that only works until I pause, skip or fast forward or does any activity it switches back to headphone mode... Does anyone have any advice other than a service repair?
I'm confused, there is no 3.5 mm jack.
Do you mean the C port?
You may have damaged the C port pcb if you're lucky. They are cheap.
A connector may have dislodged.
Or... the mobo was damaged.
Always use a good case to protect not just the outside but internal components from high G loading forces during impacts.
I have the note 10 lite, there is a jack input so it's not the USB type c sadly. I found a app that does the best jobs so far, but it's littered with ads... I also have been using a case but it took damage anyway it seems. Might get this taken care of by warranty
Terning20 said:
I have the note 10 lite, there is a jack input so it's not the USB type c sadly. I found a app that does the best jobs so far, but it's littered with ads... I also have been using a case but it took damage anyway it seems. Might get this taken care of by warranty
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, I see that now. Guess you tried using a 3.5mm plug to get it to cycle?
Play with it a bit... maybe an easy fix.
The jack is buried under the mobo. It's possible the damage was to the mobo not the jack.
Probably only one way to find out if unjamming it doesn't work. Disassemble either by you or a repair service.
Here's a teardown vid. Don't use his method of battery removal. Loosen the adhesive with anhydrous isopropyl alcohol and very slowly, carefully pry it up. Take your time and let the alcohol do the loosening. Excessive force could damage the battery and/or display.
Hi
i have a big problem. I have an unit PX5 with rockchip 8 core with 4gb ram and 32 of space.
Its a radio for renault megane 2 with amplifier and android 10.
My radio was getting very hot, so I removed the dvd and installed a fan.
Sometimes the fan made noise, so I decided to install a switch, to cut the power to the fan when I needed it.
The fan is 5v and I connect it to the usb of the radio (5v)
But when I was installing the switch, I must have made some mistake, and I started to smell burning.
Quickly disconnect everything.
To my surprise, everything worked correctly: audio, bluetooth, screen, etc.
But the wifi, no. If I activate it, it deactivates automactly.
I have tried wipe cache and factory reset.
I think the usb doesn't work either.
Is it possible that wifi and usb share power?
I thought not, but there's just that scorch all over the motherboard.
I would like to know if you can tell me how the Wi-Fi is powered, I don't care about USB.
I am attaching photos of the wreckage. Flex cable its damaged but screen works perfect. Wifi chipset i think thats okay, but see the photos please.
Thanks for your help!
Looks like a power regulator blew. Might be possible to replace it but with that much char I'm not sure about the health of the board. To get it off the board you'd need a heat gun with a small nozzle, but you could end up causing more damage to the board.
V0latyle said:
Looks like a power regulator blew. Might be possible to replace it but with that much char I'm not sure about the health of the board. To get it off the board you'd need a heat gun with a small nozzle, but you could end up causing more damage to the board.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can fix that with a soldering iron. A couple ways to do it. If you can get in with a small pair of cutters...
Carefully cut the leads* then use a soldering iron at 720F and quickly remove it what's left , one at a time. A lot of times I'll heat it and tap it off. Too much heat and/or for long will lift the pad, you have to be fast.
You can somewhat easily hand solder it on if you have the skillset/tools after you get the solder pads fairly level.
There be more damage including traces.
If you never did it, this isn't the place to learn.
Otherwise you could probably replace it but you might need to do some bridging to repair missing pads or traces.
*small precision cutters, you must not pull up or torque it sideways etc or you'll damage the pad. So you push downward slightly as you cut.