So, I like to shoot cinematic videos with a smartphone.
I have four different apps that I use for this (Filmic Pro, ProShot, ProTake and mcpro24fps).
All four of these apps work just fine on a Xiaomi Note 9 phone.
The problem is that the apps cannot lock the exposure in manual mode when I install them on my Realme 5 Pro.
Even if both ISO and Shutter Speed are manually locked by me at my desired values, the exposure still shifts and compensates when I pan the camera from dark to light areas. This renders my shots completely useless.
The interesting part is that if I switch to Auto mode on any of these apps, and then lock the exposure reticle while in Auto, I no longer get shifting exposure. However in Auto mode I am not able to set my Shutter Speed and ISO to the desired values and I must rely on whatever values the app in use automatically chooses for me. This ruins the cinematic look of my shots.
In brief: there must be a setting in Realme 5 Pro's firmware that does not allow the apps to set manual lock on ISO, Shutter Speed and on Exposure in general.
What could that faulty setting be?
Do I have to root my phone in order to correct things somehow? I don't know nothing about root access etc...
Or should I just sit and pray that a future firmware update would solve this issue?
I think I found out what is causing the problem. It is called "dynamic tone mapping" and iPhone users have the same issue with film making apps because of it.
Is there any way to turn the dynamic tone mapping function on Realme 5 Pro off when shooting and encoding videos?
Related
As we have received Nokia 8 PRO Cam update globally, some of us not happy with the final application.
There are lots of bug with this new pro app and it is so clear that it had been rushed out to silence us.
Firstly, in landscape mode in order to launch Nokia 8 PRO features you have to go trough settings, swipe up does not work which is ridiculous and it shows they have released the PRO app without real user feedback, only dump software engineers can not notice such bugs.
Secondly, in default settings shutter control is on which makes a lot of noise in dark situations, try to turn it off and you will see much much better result with less noise. It is not a miracle, does not reach the level gcam has achieved but at least , with PRO cam we see less noise.
Considering it's price, I do not except a miracle from Nokia 8, but this little details kills Nokia legacy. I believe, they should listen feedback from users first before they launch any update.
..please? You have no clue how cameras work? You can't beat the physics. It's all about the amount of light being captured by the sensor. Dark situations will always be hard for small cameras, and vice versa crap cameras, can perform well in bright situations if the lens is sharp.
With a faster shutter will have few options to make to even out the exposure:
Open up the lens aperture more. (These small lenses are usually fully open always if not used in bright sunlight, so there is nothing to gain).
Raise the ISO. This is basically amplifying the sensor data, resulting in a brighter image but with increased noise and loss of details. This is what you are complaing about.
Revert back to a lower the shutter speed so more light can be collected. The disadvantage is that you need to hold you camera more still and moving objects will still not be frozen.
Give up and lower the exposure resulting in a darker image. (Exposure compensation)
A fift option is also cheating, adding post process noise reduction, think a bit like anti-aliasing resulting in even more detail loss. Personally I'll take a slightly noisy image any day in favor of a software drawn oil painting without details.
I can't comment the bug, I haven't hit it. I'd rather the Camera app to remember the settings from last session and also some user programmable "presets" would be nice. Or a full Live Bokeh from a short-cut would also work as an work-around just to make an example.
Usually your subject is gone before your camera settings are in place.
Anyway, t best solution for you would be to get a larger sensor and a larger lens so more light can be collected. Seriously, for example a Sony RX1R II would easily beat any cell phone camera out there in lower light.
Hi
I take a lot of still life type photos inside in relatively low light - not darkness however, the subjects of the photos are lit by LED spotlights.
I find that the camera brightness is always too dark and on every shot i have to manually increase brightness in a photo editing tool
On my previous Android (OnePlus3t) I could permanently adjust the brightness level so it was always brighter and did not require post editing
Is there any modification that I can do with the MI Mix 2S? I have tried the MIUI Camera and also the GCAM APK posted to this forum but same issue - on neither can i permanently increase brightness (In GCAM I can adjust on the screen at the time of the photo but that is very fiddly to do and you only get a second or two before it reverts back)
I bought the MIX MIX 2S becuase of its "best in class" camera - but for me its a retrograde step from the OnePlus3T becuase of this brightness issue.
Do you mean the exposure setting in the camera app? You can lock that if you want.
malimukk said:
Do you mean the exposure setting in the camera app? You can lock that if you want.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes.
unfortunately the padlock in the app also locks the focus, and everythime you refocus the lock comes off and the exposure reverts back.
Here a a few tips on controlling the stock camera app in auto-mode that you may or not be aware off.
Just thought it may be of help to other owners.
We know we can control pretty much all aspects of camera in manual mode (focus, metering, ISO, WB, etc).
However, on the Xperia 5 the manual mode generates more noise in the images than the auto-mode, especially noisy in non-HDR mode whith dark environments on the photo background areas, edges and faces.
So I end up using mostly the auto-mode except to force HDR or for long-exposure shots.
In auto-mode, there are quite a few things I found frustrating compared to manual mode, but for which there are solutions:
Control scene detection: sometimes you don't want auto Backlight (HDR), Document, Food, etc. >> To temporarily disable scene detection in auto-mode, simply click on the sun icon on the left. When the icon is blue all photos are taken in standard mode: no HDR or special color processing.
1st Edit: Condition: you must use tap to focus. (If you just focus with the shutter software button, the hardware button or object tracking, scene detection won't disengage unless you actually change brightness or tint.)
Control focus: eye focus works quite well for faces. To focus on other objects, auto-mode has 3 options:
1. Auto-focus (the large green rectangle that appears when you click on shutter soft or hardware button): This tries to guess what the subject is and often leads to unpredictable results.
2. Object tracking (yellow rectangle): This is useful for moving objects. I don't use it for anything else because it typically detects and focuses on the outer edges of objects instead of the center of objects, making for blurred subjects. Also it works really bad for very small objects or when it's darker.
3. Tap to focus (blue circle): This lets you choose precisely the focus point. Much better focus results in general than method 1 or 2 above.
Control exposure: Auto-exposure is pretty good if you just point and shoot. But if you use the precise tap to focus method in auto-mode, light metering is measured on the point you clicked, and you also loose scene detection and HDR, so that's not often what you want, unless you want your black cat to turn white on the photo ! The problem is that in auto-mode there is no option in settings "Touch to adjust: Focus only" (option only available in manual mode). ...Well in fact there is a way: enable "Touch capture" in camera settings. This in fact lets you tap on screen to focus (and shoot), while still doing light-metering on the whole scene and keeping scene detection ON.
1st Edit: When touch capture is ON, tapping on screen sometimes fails to focus because the picture is taken before the camera has time to focus, especially in low light. In this case you have to take the picture twice or use the timer so it has time to focus. Well this pretty much makes this "tip" useless !
2nd Edit: Sometimes the camera fails to focus if there no contrast on the clicked zone, but touch capture is not the cause. Try to tap on a zone with more contrast to improve focus success.
So in summary here is how I set for most pictures:
1. Use auto-mode (better noise-reduction than manual mode)
2. Disable object tracking (enables the more precise tap to focus).
3. Enable Touch capture (preserve HDR, multi-metering and scene detection with tap to focus. 1st Edit: when it actually manages to focus before picture is taken, basically only in good light it seems.).
In some special situations, I adjust the following:
4. Click on sun icon, 1st Edit: then tap to focus (when I want to disable scene detection / HDR)
5. Use the lamp flash (only for macro shots in very dark condition to get usable ISO/speed)
6. Use the flash (only when necessary to get usable ISO/speed or to compensate huge backlit situation)
7. Adjust brightness with slider (if I really need to tweak brightness)
All in all I find that all the above settings allow for flexible controls and good results in auto-mode.
Of course you may have a different usage and set yours completely differently.
chgr said:
Here a a few tips on controlling the stock camera app in auto-mode that you may or not be aware off.
Just thought it may be of help to other owners.
We know we can control pretty much all aspects of camera in manual mode (focus, metering, ISO, WB, etc).
However, on the Xperia 5 the manual mode generates more noise in the images than the auto-mode, especially noisy in non-HDR mode whith dark environments on the photo background areas, edges and faces.
So I end up using mostly the auto-mode except to force HDR or for long-exposure shots.
In auto-mode, there are quite a few things I found frustrating compared to manual mode, but for which there are solutions:
Control scene detection: sometimes you don't want auto Backlight (HDR), Document, Food, etc. >> To temporarily disable scene detection in auto-mode, simply click on the sun icon on the left. When the icon is blue all photos are taken in standard mode: no HDR or special color processing.
Control focus: eye focus works quite well for faces. To focus on other objects, auto-mode has 3 options:
1. Auto-focus (the large green rectangle that appears when you click on shutter soft or hardware button): This tries to guess what the subject is and often leads to unpredictable results.
2. Object tracking (yellow rectangle): This is useful for moving objects. I don't use it for anything else because it typically detects and focuses on the outer edges of objects instead of the center of objects, making for blurred subjects. Also it works really bad for very small objects or when it's darker.
3. Tap to focus (blue circle): This lets you choose precisely the focus point. Much better focus results in general than method 1 or 2 above.
Control exposure: Auto-exposure is pretty good if you just point and shoot. But if you use the precise tap to focus method in auto-mode, light metering is measured on the point you clicked, and you also loose scene detection and HDR, so that's not often what you want, unless you want your black cat to turn white on the photo ! The problem is that in auto-mode there is no option in settings "Touch to adjust: Focus only" (option only available in manual mode). ...Well in fact there is a way: enable "Touch capture" in camera settings. This in fact lets you tap on screen to focus (and shoot), while still doing light-metering on the whole scene and keeping scene detection ON.
So in summary here is how I set for most pictures:
1. Use auto-mode (better noise-reduction than manual mode)
2. Disable object tracking (enables the more precise tap to focus).
3. Enable Touch capture (preserve multi-metering and scene detection with tap to focus).
In some special situations, I adjust the following:
4. Click on sun icon (when I want to disable scene detection / HDR)
5. Use the lamp flash (only for macro shots in very dark condition to get usable ISO/speed)
6. Use the flash (only when necessary to get usable ISO/speed or to compensate huge backlit situation)
7. Adjust brightness with slider (if I really need to tweak brightness)
All in all I find that all the above settings allow for flexible controls and good results in auto-mode.
Of course you may have a different usage and set yours completely differently.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Quite useful tips, thanks! Especially considering that camera quality appeared to be below my expectations (coming from Pixel devices, Huawei Mate 20 Pro, P30, Galaxy Note 10+). There are few complains about X5 camera system with which I can't do anything about. Firstly, quite slow camera app start up time and its overall performance compared to other devices. Secondly, focusing system is clearly inferior too. Main camera struggles to focus on objects a way too often in situations where others do it easily. Thirdly, HDR mode nearly useless (absolutely useless compared to, say, Pixel 2). Also camera has difficulties to make decent pictures in conditions different from ideal - blown out skies, crushed dark areas, overexposure problems are not something rare here. Finally, low light performance is a way below the competition. Making good pictures in low light from handheld phone is nearly impossible. Blurry mess or aqua painting effect is guaranteed. I hope that Sony will address these issues in future updates.
Would somebody be so kind to check if the following is possible:
Camera: Put the ISO on fixed and low (like 100) and then the shutter on auto AND be possible to take good pictures in half lit rooms, like indoors. (shutter can become like 5 seconds, on auto!)
Yes, very simple/basic you would think, but it appears to be very rare for camera phones. For normal camera’s this is 100% basic!
Please tell me the Mi Note 10 can do this.
And for more info, IF you are interested:
I tested it out: P30pro, Oneplus 7T and a bunch of more cheap/midrange/(I)phones. And as soon as you put it on a fixed (low) ISO (if even possible), the max shutter will be too short to make a good picture with low light. Or they put the shutter on manual as soon as you put Iso on a fixed value. Either way, it is not possible what I need for photogrammetry
I have no clue why they set the max shutter on something like half a second max, when ISO is manual/fixed but they do. Or fixed ISO means only manual shutter. Even with Gcam and/or other party apps. I've tried everything!
Yes, you can manually set the shutter longer, to get a decent exposure (so, technical it is possible to take the picture with the right exposure), but I need it to be on auto shutter/exposure, as I have to take 1000+ pictures in half a day for photogrammetry, so I do not have time to do manual shutter/exposure.
On a normal camera this is soooo basic. Please tell me the Mi Note 10 does not have this strange “limitation” for no obvious reason that other high level camera phones do have.
Yes, it has such limitation and it has a basic explanation - if the shutter speed is longer than half a second, you'll need a tripod for a decent image.
bo6o said:
Yes, it has such limitation and it has a basic explanation - if the shutter speed is longer than half a second, you'll need a tripod for a decent image.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the answer, though it was not what I hoped for.
And yes you need a tripod of course. But do the big companies think nobody ever heard of a tripod and why you use them for a camera(phone)? Beside that, it is only limited when shutter is on auto, not on manual. To me it make no sense.
Not to mention al 3th party apps, they all claim: use you camera phone as a DSLR…. NOT!
You can do whatever you want, even in the default camera app.
The max shutter rate is 32s, and the max ISO is 6400.
You can set whatever you want.
I also shoot nighttime, and I'm always at 100 ISO.
insetta said:
The max shutter rate is 32s, and the max ISO is 6400.
You can set whatever you want.
I also shoot nighttime, and I'm always at 100 ISO.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay, but do you set the shutter on manual or on auto? What will become the max shutter on auto? (with fixed ISO at 100 and at nighttime).
I'm just curious about how people use Photo Pro. When I turn on Photo Pro, it goes directly to Shutter Speed mode. I have auto-focus continuous on, focus area wide, and meter area multi. I initially shoot with single-exposure and only move to continuous shooting as needed. Flash is off, white balance is auto, Auto HDR and D-'Range Optimizer are off. I have the histogram turned on.
I'm curious about your starting point and any observations you have on my parameters.
Might have to look under settings and see what it says under there like last mode or something
Thanks. I have that one set to open in Photo Pro on last mode used. It opens to "S-Mode", shutter speed priority.