I'm just curious about how people use Photo Pro. When I turn on Photo Pro, it goes directly to Shutter Speed mode. I have auto-focus continuous on, focus area wide, and meter area multi. I initially shoot with single-exposure and only move to continuous shooting as needed. Flash is off, white balance is auto, Auto HDR and D-'Range Optimizer are off. I have the histogram turned on.
I'm curious about your starting point and any observations you have on my parameters.
Might have to look under settings and see what it says under there like last mode or something
Thanks. I have that one set to open in Photo Pro on last mode used. It opens to "S-Mode", shutter speed priority.
Related
Hi,
My camera is very very slow. The quality seems good but when filming and moving the phone everything is very blurry. Is this normal / common issue?
If I take a picture of something it has to be absolutely still otherwise the picture is blurred.
When I direct it to a wall which is 1 color the camera if very fast, but when I move it to a colored area with lights etc, it flickers 1 time and then it goes very slow, as if some filter is applied in areas which are lighter.
I get this also and upgrading the radio has not solved the problem.
I've noticed that it seems to be fast in daylight?
Theres a camera trick in the forums - kaiser I think about switching off the phone (sleep mode by pressing the power button) whilst the camera is on and switching it back on again improving the speed but I have not been able to make it work.
The Polaris camera is very good in daylight conditions! If you try to take pictures in low light conditions the fps will drop so that it seems like it is very slow.
Try this little trick for videos or pictures in low light conditions with max fps:
1. Activate camera with camera button
2. Put your finger on the camera lens and hold it there
3. Turn of Screen / Put Polaris into sleep mode and wait 5 - 8 seconds
4. Activate Polaris screen again with power button
5. Now you can take pictures / videos with max fps!
But be aware of the fact, that with this little trick the iso lightening won't work anymore and the pictures will be darker and have lower quality!
After using the camera in better light conditions, everything will be as before the trick!
WOW! and that actually DID work
thanks for tip friend, I can live with the lower quality if I can get a decent video recording... The ones I've done before were rubbish. I would have been embarassed to show them to anyone... except maybe at a 60's convention..the blurryness was a little psychadelic!
The trick seems to work! Isn't there a way to modify the rom to always disable the light filter?
The other front camera is always working very fast, it's just the one on the back.
Thanks!
Maybe UDK might build it into his v9 release? (hint, hint!)
As far as i know there is no chance to tweak some software or a rom so that the problom won't occur again. When starting the camera it's hardware will always activate the iso lightning and therefore there will be those fps drops in low light conditions.
It has something to do with the lack of hardware drivers which could keep high fps rates also in low light conditions..... BUT i'm not sure because of the diamond!
If you compare it with the diamond, there ARE some video drivers but the performance of the camera is nearly the SAME as on Polaris.... in some situations even worse and less fps rates!
ZaPP187 said:
As far as i know there is no chance to tweak
If you compare it with the diamond, there ARE some video drivers but the performance of the camera is nearly the SAME as on Polaris.... in some situations even worse and less fps rates!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
htc phone has the slow camera problem all the time ,and will last too its dieth
so change your htc for samung or nokia their cameras are better than htc
ZaPP187 said:
It has something to do with the lack of hardware drivers which could keep high fps rates also in low light conditions.....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It has absolutely nothing to do with drivers. The phone's night mode isn't simply adjusting the ISO. The phone is allowing more light into the sensor, thus keeping the shutter open longer. Doing so blurs the picture if you move around. Any phone with a night mode does the same thing. In fact any digitial camera with a nightmode will also do this.
ZaPP187 said:
The Polaris camera is very good in daylight conditions! If you try to take pictures in low light conditions the fps will drop so that it seems like it is very slow.
Try this little trick for videos or pictures in low light conditions with max fps:
1. Activate camera with camera button
2. Put your finger on the camera lens and hold it there
3. Turn of Screen / Put Polaris into sleep mode and wait 5 - 8 seconds
4. Activate Polaris screen again with power button
5. Now you can take pictures / videos with max fps!
But be aware of the fact, that with this little trick the iso lightening won't work anymore and the pictures will be darker and have lower quality!
After using the camera in better light conditions, everything will be as before the trick!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OMG, it works! thx a lot!
Can I ask how to modify this trick via a .reg file?
As said above, this cannot be done. You'll have to do it manually each time.
sonus said:
It has absolutely nothing to do with drivers. The phone's night mode isn't simply adjusting the ISO. The phone is allowing more light into the sensor, thus keeping the shutter open longer. Doing so blurs the picture if you move around. Any phone with a night mode does the same thing. In fact any digitial camera with a nightmode will also do this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, but how about setting a value for nightmode, so it wont be used in mediocre lit areas thus increasing performance?(maybe to finally allow to make some nice, steady pictures) I think HTC overdid it a little.
And how can you explain this trick, fooling phone that it's complete darkness, so it decides to turn nightmode off? Kinda weird.
Also what LightSensorHz(50) registry value does?
\HKLM\Software\Drivers\Camera\Property
Hello people,
I decided to give this app a go, however I'm lost. I ended up fooling around with the options with literally no idea what I was doing.
Can anyone here suggest the optimal settings for this app for use on our Sensations?
TIA
I recommend to read up on HDR photography as I did for my new DSLR and it helped a lot.
But here are my settings:
Color Vividness: Pure
Local Contrast: Normal (sometimes Low - depending on scenery)
Micro Contrast: Normal
Exposure: Normal (In low lights - Bright)
Noise Reduction: Minor (In extreme sunlight - None)
Auto Adjustments: Ticked
Flash - depending on what I want to shoot
Image Size: 8 Mpix
Capture Mode: Slow Mode 1
Re-Focus on each shot: Ticked
Some poor examples attached.
Hi guys
After doing lots of practicals in different condissions. I found some of the tricks to maximise the quality of picture captured by your smartphone.
So just follow the guide according to what condition you have.
1-- Day time(high to mid light)
Keep the iso value as low as possible.
keep flash onn.
Choose auto focus mode insted of macro mode.
Always try focusing on a light colored object insted of dark color.
Do not focus on plane objects as camera often did not resolve correctly.
if capturing an image with bright colors then you should be a litile bit far from that object or to take a closup have sone shade on that object from sun.
if inside room or in shade from sun set canera to clody mode insted of daylight.
2-- night time(high to mid light)
Keep the iso value as low as possible.
Choose auto focus mode insted of macro mode.
Always keep flash onn.
Always try focusing on a dark colored object insted of light color.
if capturing an image with light colors then you should maximise the exposure value.
if in a room with lighys onn use florosent mode.
3-- night mode(low light)
keep iso value high.
keep flash onn.
maximise the exposure value.
set camera to auto focus.
cloudy mode is perfect for your images.
do focus on object which you can see on screem in dim light.
never zoom your camera.
while closeup in dimlight keep exposure not too high.
4-- images of more than 6meter distance
these images can be clicked only in day time.
keep iso value not too low.
keep exposure maximum.
keep focus to infinity by tapping on any far off object.
set camera to daylight mode.
keep flash onn.
keeping flash onn reduces the shutter closing time. and this allow to get a sharp image without any shakes.
setting iso value to low reduces noice in images but it also reduces the brightness considrable.
exposure is the brightness and contrast of image.
and mode like daylight.cloudy and floresent are type of filters to get natural color in any situation of lights.
i hope this helped a lot.
many of you i think need this. hit thanks if it helped.
peace
Sent from my SM-G355H using XDA Free mobile app
Here a a few tips on controlling the stock camera app in auto-mode that you may or not be aware off.
Just thought it may be of help to other owners.
We know we can control pretty much all aspects of camera in manual mode (focus, metering, ISO, WB, etc).
However, on the Xperia 5 the manual mode generates more noise in the images than the auto-mode, especially noisy in non-HDR mode whith dark environments on the photo background areas, edges and faces.
So I end up using mostly the auto-mode except to force HDR or for long-exposure shots.
In auto-mode, there are quite a few things I found frustrating compared to manual mode, but for which there are solutions:
Control scene detection: sometimes you don't want auto Backlight (HDR), Document, Food, etc. >> To temporarily disable scene detection in auto-mode, simply click on the sun icon on the left. When the icon is blue all photos are taken in standard mode: no HDR or special color processing.
1st Edit: Condition: you must use tap to focus. (If you just focus with the shutter software button, the hardware button or object tracking, scene detection won't disengage unless you actually change brightness or tint.)
Control focus: eye focus works quite well for faces. To focus on other objects, auto-mode has 3 options:
1. Auto-focus (the large green rectangle that appears when you click on shutter soft or hardware button): This tries to guess what the subject is and often leads to unpredictable results.
2. Object tracking (yellow rectangle): This is useful for moving objects. I don't use it for anything else because it typically detects and focuses on the outer edges of objects instead of the center of objects, making for blurred subjects. Also it works really bad for very small objects or when it's darker.
3. Tap to focus (blue circle): This lets you choose precisely the focus point. Much better focus results in general than method 1 or 2 above.
Control exposure: Auto-exposure is pretty good if you just point and shoot. But if you use the precise tap to focus method in auto-mode, light metering is measured on the point you clicked, and you also loose scene detection and HDR, so that's not often what you want, unless you want your black cat to turn white on the photo ! The problem is that in auto-mode there is no option in settings "Touch to adjust: Focus only" (option only available in manual mode). ...Well in fact there is a way: enable "Touch capture" in camera settings. This in fact lets you tap on screen to focus (and shoot), while still doing light-metering on the whole scene and keeping scene detection ON.
1st Edit: When touch capture is ON, tapping on screen sometimes fails to focus because the picture is taken before the camera has time to focus, especially in low light. In this case you have to take the picture twice or use the timer so it has time to focus. Well this pretty much makes this "tip" useless !
2nd Edit: Sometimes the camera fails to focus if there no contrast on the clicked zone, but touch capture is not the cause. Try to tap on a zone with more contrast to improve focus success.
So in summary here is how I set for most pictures:
1. Use auto-mode (better noise-reduction than manual mode)
2. Disable object tracking (enables the more precise tap to focus).
3. Enable Touch capture (preserve HDR, multi-metering and scene detection with tap to focus. 1st Edit: when it actually manages to focus before picture is taken, basically only in good light it seems.).
In some special situations, I adjust the following:
4. Click on sun icon, 1st Edit: then tap to focus (when I want to disable scene detection / HDR)
5. Use the lamp flash (only for macro shots in very dark condition to get usable ISO/speed)
6. Use the flash (only when necessary to get usable ISO/speed or to compensate huge backlit situation)
7. Adjust brightness with slider (if I really need to tweak brightness)
All in all I find that all the above settings allow for flexible controls and good results in auto-mode.
Of course you may have a different usage and set yours completely differently.
chgr said:
Here a a few tips on controlling the stock camera app in auto-mode that you may or not be aware off.
Just thought it may be of help to other owners.
We know we can control pretty much all aspects of camera in manual mode (focus, metering, ISO, WB, etc).
However, on the Xperia 5 the manual mode generates more noise in the images than the auto-mode, especially noisy in non-HDR mode whith dark environments on the photo background areas, edges and faces.
So I end up using mostly the auto-mode except to force HDR or for long-exposure shots.
In auto-mode, there are quite a few things I found frustrating compared to manual mode, but for which there are solutions:
Control scene detection: sometimes you don't want auto Backlight (HDR), Document, Food, etc. >> To temporarily disable scene detection in auto-mode, simply click on the sun icon on the left. When the icon is blue all photos are taken in standard mode: no HDR or special color processing.
Control focus: eye focus works quite well for faces. To focus on other objects, auto-mode has 3 options:
1. Auto-focus (the large green rectangle that appears when you click on shutter soft or hardware button): This tries to guess what the subject is and often leads to unpredictable results.
2. Object tracking (yellow rectangle): This is useful for moving objects. I don't use it for anything else because it typically detects and focuses on the outer edges of objects instead of the center of objects, making for blurred subjects. Also it works really bad for very small objects or when it's darker.
3. Tap to focus (blue circle): This lets you choose precisely the focus point. Much better focus results in general than method 1 or 2 above.
Control exposure: Auto-exposure is pretty good if you just point and shoot. But if you use the precise tap to focus method in auto-mode, light metering is measured on the point you clicked, and you also loose scene detection and HDR, so that's not often what you want, unless you want your black cat to turn white on the photo ! The problem is that in auto-mode there is no option in settings "Touch to adjust: Focus only" (option only available in manual mode). ...Well in fact there is a way: enable "Touch capture" in camera settings. This in fact lets you tap on screen to focus (and shoot), while still doing light-metering on the whole scene and keeping scene detection ON.
So in summary here is how I set for most pictures:
1. Use auto-mode (better noise-reduction than manual mode)
2. Disable object tracking (enables the more precise tap to focus).
3. Enable Touch capture (preserve multi-metering and scene detection with tap to focus).
In some special situations, I adjust the following:
4. Click on sun icon (when I want to disable scene detection / HDR)
5. Use the lamp flash (only for macro shots in very dark condition to get usable ISO/speed)
6. Use the flash (only when necessary to get usable ISO/speed or to compensate huge backlit situation)
7. Adjust brightness with slider (if I really need to tweak brightness)
All in all I find that all the above settings allow for flexible controls and good results in auto-mode.
Of course you may have a different usage and set yours completely differently.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Quite useful tips, thanks! Especially considering that camera quality appeared to be below my expectations (coming from Pixel devices, Huawei Mate 20 Pro, P30, Galaxy Note 10+). There are few complains about X5 camera system with which I can't do anything about. Firstly, quite slow camera app start up time and its overall performance compared to other devices. Secondly, focusing system is clearly inferior too. Main camera struggles to focus on objects a way too often in situations where others do it easily. Thirdly, HDR mode nearly useless (absolutely useless compared to, say, Pixel 2). Also camera has difficulties to make decent pictures in conditions different from ideal - blown out skies, crushed dark areas, overexposure problems are not something rare here. Finally, low light performance is a way below the competition. Making good pictures in low light from handheld phone is nearly impossible. Blurry mess or aqua painting effect is guaranteed. I hope that Sony will address these issues in future updates.
So, I like to shoot cinematic videos with a smartphone.
I have four different apps that I use for this (Filmic Pro, ProShot, ProTake and mcpro24fps).
All four of these apps work just fine on a Xiaomi Note 9 phone.
The problem is that the apps cannot lock the exposure in manual mode when I install them on my Realme 5 Pro.
Even if both ISO and Shutter Speed are manually locked by me at my desired values, the exposure still shifts and compensates when I pan the camera from dark to light areas. This renders my shots completely useless.
The interesting part is that if I switch to Auto mode on any of these apps, and then lock the exposure reticle while in Auto, I no longer get shifting exposure. However in Auto mode I am not able to set my Shutter Speed and ISO to the desired values and I must rely on whatever values the app in use automatically chooses for me. This ruins the cinematic look of my shots.
In brief: there must be a setting in Realme 5 Pro's firmware that does not allow the apps to set manual lock on ISO, Shutter Speed and on Exposure in general.
What could that faulty setting be?
Do I have to root my phone in order to correct things somehow? I don't know nothing about root access etc...
Or should I just sit and pray that a future firmware update would solve this issue?
I think I found out what is causing the problem. It is called "dynamic tone mapping" and iPhone users have the same issue with film making apps because of it.
Is there any way to turn the dynamic tone mapping function on Realme 5 Pro off when shooting and encoding videos?