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HDR Camera+ best settings for sensation

Hello people,
I decided to give this app a go, however I'm lost. I ended up fooling around with the options with literally no idea what I was doing.
Can anyone here suggest the optimal settings for this app for use on our Sensations?
TIA

I recommend to read up on HDR photography as I did for my new DSLR and it helped a lot.
But here are my settings:
Color Vividness: Pure
Local Contrast: Normal (sometimes Low - depending on scenery)
Micro Contrast: Normal
Exposure: Normal (In low lights - Bright)
Noise Reduction: Minor (In extreme sunlight - None)
Auto Adjustments: Ticked
Flash - depending on what I want to shoot
Image Size: 8 Mpix
Capture Mode: Slow Mode 1
Re-Focus on each shot: Ticked
Some poor examples attached.

[Q] Good quality pictures: App dependent or Hardware dependent?

I'm trying to understand what makes a camera phone produce good quality pictures. Initially, I thought it was pretty much solely dependent on the camera itself: I have an HTC EVO 4G LTE and it's 8MP. I want even better picture quality so I was searching for phones that had more megapixels, since I assumed that more MP the better. But during my search, I saw more discussions centering around the camera software, and how that effects pictures, which I hadn't even known before. Can I just simply download a camera app and get better quality pictures, or will I have to get a new phone, or both?

Altom85 said:
I'm trying to understand what makes a camera phone produce good quality pictures. Initially, I thought it was pretty much solely dependent on the camera itself: I have an HTC EVO 4G LTE and it's 8MP. I want even better picture quality so I was searching for phones that had more megapixels, since I assumed that more MP the better. But during my search, I saw more discussions centering around the camera software, and how that effects pictures, which I hadn't even known before. Can I just simply download a camera app and get better quality pictures, or will I have to get a new phone, or both?
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Sort of. Megapixels are a measure of resolution, which is essentially how many mini-dots of color make up an image. One megapixel is the equivalent of 1,000,000 of those little dots, called pixels. They make up every digital screen you've ever seen. The more pixels an image has, the more detailed, and the the clearer it can be.
Now, there are some issues with large amounts of pixels in a small camera. One is that each pixel in the sensor must capture light, and the smaller they are, the longer they take to capture enough light for a well-lit, clear picture. That leads to the second main issue, which is blur. When the shutter time (amount of time that the camera sensor takes in the light that forms the picture) is long, you get a well lit, clear picture... provided the subject is stable, and your hand is too. If something moves, then the sensors see it both in it's initial - "true" - position, and every position in between where it ends up when your sensors stop taking in light. This causes blur. When the shutter time is short, blur is reduced, but pictures are darker.
So, yeah, the software you use is important. Some will use smart software to correct for blur, some will automatically brighten the image (Which reduces detail), and the best ones (IMO) let you set your own shutter time depending on what you're taking a picture of. For example, if you're watching a baseball game outside, you should set a very short shutter speed so that you minimize the amount of motion blur captured, but there should be plenty of natural light provided by the sun. If you're in a dim art gallery, you may want a longer shutter time, as you need the time for lighting, and nothing's going to be moving.

Creed14 said:
Sort of. Megapixels are a measure of resolution, which is essentially how many mini-dots of color make up an image. One megapixel is the equivalent of 1,000,000 of those little dots, called pixels. They make up every digital screen you've ever seen. The more pixels an image has, the more detailed, and the the clearer it can be.
Now, there are some issues with large amounts of pixels in a small camera. One is that each pixel in the sensor must capture light, and the smaller they are, the longer they take to capture enough light for a well-lit, clear picture. That leads to the second main issue, which is blur. When the shutter time (amount of time that the camera sensor takes in the light that forms the picture) is long, you get a well lit, clear picture... provided the subject is stable, and your hand is too. If something moves, then the sensors see it both in it's initial - "true" - position, and every position in between where it ends up when your sensors stop taking in light. This causes blur. When the shutter time is short, blur is reduced, but pictures are darker.
So, yeah, the software you use is important. Some will use smart software to correct for blur, some will automatically brighten the image (Which reduces detail), and the best ones (IMO) let you set your own shutter time depending on what you're taking a picture of. For example, if you're watching a baseball game outside, you should set a very short shutter speed so that you minimize the amount of motion blur captured, but there should be plenty of natural light provided by the sun. If you're in a dim art gallery, you may want a longer shutter time, as you need the time for lighting, and nothing's going to be moving.
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Click to collapse
Wow, thank you for that very detailed answer Creed I understand this much better. So basically (let me know if I'm wrong here) a large number of MP won't make much of a difference if your software and settings suck? So, on average, what is a decent amount of MP? I have 8 right now on my HTC EVO 4G LTE. Can you also suggest a good camera app? Thanks very much in advance :good:

Ultimate guide to capture a perfect picture

Hi guys
After doing lots of practicals in different condissions. I found some of the tricks to maximise the quality of picture captured by your smartphone.
So just follow the guide according to what condition you have.
1-- Day time(high to mid light)
Keep the iso value as low as possible.
keep flash onn.
Choose auto focus mode insted of macro mode.
Always try focusing on a light colored object insted of dark color.
Do not focus on plane objects as camera often did not resolve correctly.
if capturing an image with bright colors then you should be a litile bit far from that object or to take a closup have sone shade on that object from sun.
if inside room or in shade from sun set canera to clody mode insted of daylight.
2-- night time(high to mid light)
Keep the iso value as low as possible.
Choose auto focus mode insted of macro mode.
Always keep flash onn.
Always try focusing on a dark colored object insted of light color.
if capturing an image with light colors then you should maximise the exposure value.
if in a room with lighys onn use florosent mode.
3-- night mode(low light)
keep iso value high.
keep flash onn.
maximise the exposure value.
set camera to auto focus.
cloudy mode is perfect for your images.
do focus on object which you can see on screem in dim light.
never zoom your camera.
while closeup in dimlight keep exposure not too high.
4-- images of more than 6meter distance
these images can be clicked only in day time.
keep iso value not too low.
keep exposure maximum.
keep focus to infinity by tapping on any far off object.
set camera to daylight mode.
keep flash onn.
keeping flash onn reduces the shutter closing time. and this allow to get a sharp image without any shakes.
setting iso value to low reduces noice in images but it also reduces the brightness considrable.
exposure is the brightness and contrast of image.
and mode like daylight.cloudy and floresent are type of filters to get natural color in any situation of lights.
i hope this helped a lot.
many of you i think need this. hit thanks if it helped.
peace
Sent from my SM-G355H using XDA Free mobile app

Improve Noise Detection in your Nokia 8

As we have received Nokia 8 PRO Cam update globally, some of us not happy with the final application.
There are lots of bug with this new pro app and it is so clear that it had been rushed out to silence us.
Firstly, in landscape mode in order to launch Nokia 8 PRO features you have to go trough settings, swipe up does not work which is ridiculous and it shows they have released the PRO app without real user feedback, only dump software engineers can not notice such bugs.
Secondly, in default settings shutter control is on which makes a lot of noise in dark situations, try to turn it off and you will see much much better result with less noise. It is not a miracle, does not reach the level gcam has achieved but at least , with PRO cam we see less noise.
Considering it's price, I do not except a miracle from Nokia 8, but this little details kills Nokia legacy. I believe, they should listen feedback from users first before they launch any update.

..please? You have no clue how cameras work? You can't beat the physics. It's all about the amount of light being captured by the sensor. Dark situations will always be hard for small cameras, and vice versa crap cameras, can perform well in bright situations if the lens is sharp.
With a faster shutter will have few options to make to even out the exposure:
Open up the lens aperture more. (These small lenses are usually fully open always if not used in bright sunlight, so there is nothing to gain).
Raise the ISO. This is basically amplifying the sensor data, resulting in a brighter image but with increased noise and loss of details. This is what you are complaing about.
Revert back to a lower the shutter speed so more light can be collected. The disadvantage is that you need to hold you camera more still and moving objects will still not be frozen.
Give up and lower the exposure resulting in a darker image. (Exposure compensation)
A fift option is also cheating, adding post process noise reduction, think a bit like anti-aliasing resulting in even more detail loss. Personally I'll take a slightly noisy image any day in favor of a software drawn oil painting without details.
I can't comment the bug, I haven't hit it. I'd rather the Camera app to remember the settings from last session and also some user programmable "presets" would be nice. Or a full Live Bokeh from a short-cut would also work as an work-around just to make an example.
Usually your subject is gone before your camera settings are in place.
Anyway, t best solution for you would be to get a larger sensor and a larger lens so more light can be collected. Seriously, for example a Sony RX1R II would easily beat any cell phone camera out there in lower light.

Photo Pro Settings

I'm just curious about how people use Photo Pro. When I turn on Photo Pro, it goes directly to Shutter Speed mode. I have auto-focus continuous on, focus area wide, and meter area multi. I initially shoot with single-exposure and only move to continuous shooting as needed. Flash is off, white balance is auto, Auto HDR and D-'Range Optimizer are off. I have the histogram turned on.
I'm curious about your starting point and any observations you have on my parameters.

Might have to look under settings and see what it says under there like last mode or something

Thanks. I have that one set to open in Photo Pro on last mode used. It opens to "S-Mode", shutter speed priority.