I recently purchased an A-12 and want to take photos of the moon but they are very grainy, blurred.
Can anyone advise me me on the correct settings to use ?
Thanks in advance.......
So I watched a YT video on the subject, the guy said when you increase the ISO setting you should increase the shutter speed as well.
When I go into Pro mode I can only see 3 buttons - ISO, WB and another that has a slider from -2 ~ +2, I think it's something to do with brightness.
How do I adjust the shutter speed ?
Thanks in advance.....
In general, as long as you are able to set ISO you don't need to worry about shutter speed, it is adjusted automatically according to the scene brightness. Just set ISO to a smaller value and you'll have low noise and low shutter speeds, which, or course, cause the moving things to blur much more, so either a tripod or 4-axis optical stabilization is compulsory for sharp low-shutter-speed/long-exposure pictures. A12 does not have any optical stabilization at all, so you have to use a tripod. Also I recommend to set the exposure adjustment (it's the +/- slider) to a lower value to bring up details on the moon, otherwise it can look totally white.
uluruman said:
In general, as long as you are able to set ISO you don't need to worry about shutter speed, it is adjusted automatically according to the scene brightness. Just set ISO to a smaller value and you'll have low noise and low shutter speeds, which, or course, cause the moving things to blur much more, so either a tripod or 4-axis optical stabilization is compulsory for sharp low-shutter-speed/long-exposure pictures. A12 does not have any optical stabilization at all, so you have to use a tripod. Also I recommend to set the exposure adjustment (it's the +/- slider) to a lower value to bring up details on the moon, otherwise it can look totally white.
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Thanks very much uluruman, I will try that......
why you buy a lowcost device for that?
Related
Hello, I only just got the HTC ONE mini yesterday and just trying to get to grips with a couple of things, mainly the stills camera. I can see in the setting you can change the video resolution but I cannot for the life of me see where you can lower the resolution of the camera say if i want to shoot in 1024x768 or 640x480 - can anyone point me in the right direction please.
Also when I have taken the photo how can i go and adjust the brightness and colour and contrast and sharpness of the photo before sharing it using the inbuilt htc camer app rather than having to download snapseed or another post processing app? - I have tried 'edit' and then 'retouch' but rather than sliders for brightness contrast and saturation etc it just gives skin smooth face lighting face contour etc but no control of photo brightness or anything else - thanks for any help.
Trying to shoot HDR but surprised that the only parameters that can be used to apply the exposure changes are ISO & shutter speed. Where is the aperture priority? Surely both of these change the aperture &, therefore, affect the depth of field & focussing of the HDR series? Am I missing something here?
Best,
Ray
It is boring to always use the auto mode in camera so let's try the manual mode and have greater quality pictures, which is better than auto mode.
What is manual mode ?
Manual mode is one of the main settings on your camera, and it lets you manually control shutter speed, white balance, manual focus, and ISO in most. These three settings work together to control the how bright or dark your photo is (known as exposure), as well as change the overall look of the image.
What is ISO ?
In photography ISO measures the sensitivity of the image sensor. The same principles apply as in film photography – the lower the number the less sensitive your camera is to light and the finer the grain. Higher ISO settings are generally used in darker situations to get faster shutter speeds.
What is Shutter Speed ?
In photography, shutter speed or exposure time is the length of time when the film or digital sensor inside the camera is exposed to light, also when a camera's shutter is open when taking a photograph. The amount of light that reaches the film or image sensor is proportional to the exposure time.
What is White balancing ?
White balancing is a process in which a camera will attempt to detect the type of white light largely visible in different environments. This is typically utilized to account for different light sources (fluorescent, incandescent, etc.), as well as different weather types and times of day (overcast, sunny, sunset, etc.). White balance generally focuses on collecting the proper temperature of white light in a scene, which ranges from cold (blue-tinted) to warm (orange or gold-tinted).
This is one setting that is often best left on automatic settings, unless the viewfinder suggests that the automatic white balance is obviously wrong. Of note, RAW images will have to be manually white balanced in post-processing, as RAW shooting will not modify the white balance in-camera.
What is Manual Focus ?
Manual focus controls are a more recent and much-appreciated addition to the control suite of manual smartphone photographers. Most camera apps features a simple and intuitive circular slider which can be used to accurately set focus manually in lieu of the jumpier and imperfect auto-focus, something which is often exaggerated when trying to take photos of close subjects. If you want to take a closer pic of something very near try macro focus.
What is Manual exposure ?
manual exposure is a small supplement to ISO and shutter speed settings, and it is one of the rarer manual settings one will find in smartphone camera applications. If a combination of shutter speed and ISO produce an unsatisfying image, manual exposure is often offered as a way of tweaking the brightness of an image in-camera. It can quite easily be replaced by simply modifying brightness after taking the photo, but it can sometimes be more efficient to get the image right the first time.
What do we have in our Lenovo P2 :
I had Camera api2 activated and snap camera hdr+ and oneplus 5 camera apps.
Shutter speed
Minimum 0.68s maximum 1/96423s
ISO
Minimum 100 Maximum 19200
Verdict approximate values
In low light condition
Higher ISO [ 500 ~ 19200 aprx] + Higher shutter speed [0.68 ~ 1/200 aprx]
In heavy light condition
Lower ISO [below 500 aprx] + Lower shutter speed [1/200s ~ 1/96423s aprx]
Camera Api2 advantages
Raw image capture support
In depth manual mode control
Enable camera api2
https://forum.xda-developers.com/lenovo-p2/themes/flashable-zip-activating-camera-api2-t3724207
Which app is best for manual mode?
? Snap camera HDR
https://www.google.co.in/search?q=Snap+camera+HDR+paid+apk&gws_rd=cr&dcr=0&ei=bXs-WuDaI4HEvQSYyLWQDQ [Google search result page, Cuz many getting confused about this app]
? Oneplus 5 camera
Download link https://forum.xda-developers.com/lenovo-p2/themes/stable-oneplus-5-camera-t3709983
? Adobe Photoshop Lightroom CC
? Camera FV 5
Reserved [for samples]
I can't use the RAW format, the scrren get mad and the camera crash, am i the only one with this problem?
Liacon said:
I can't use the RAW format, the scrren get mad and the camera crash, am i the only one with this problem?
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Screenshot
It's like this with all the camera apps that have avaible the raw format
At first I was thinking that the problem it's present because I usa a micro sd, but the image gets mad even without it.
I'm on the last lineage build by Higway Star
Liacon said:
It's like this with all the camera apps that have avaible the raw format
At first I was thinking that the problem it's present because I usa a micro sd, but the image gets mad even without it.
I'm on the last lineage build by Higway Star
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Only the bug in camera driver can make mess like this.
Wonder Wicked Witch said:
Only the bug in camera driver can make mess like this.
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So it's a rom's related problem?
Liacon said:
So it's a rom's related problem?
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Same issue on stock s244, with every app.
Also, I've seen many others
Liacon said:
So it's a rom's related problem?
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icsdia said:
Same issue on stock s244, with every app.
Also, I've seen many others
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Maybe due to changing roms in mobiles the camera driver can get into buggy, not confirmed yet.
If you want Camera with Raw capture try "snap camera HDR" with force HAL1 enabled in-app setting.
If you looking for completely manual configuration try camera api2 ON in-app setting.
[camera api2 HAL3 vs HAL1 screenshots]
I can't find force hal1, sucks.
At least the manual controls it's a very sweet thing
Liacon said:
I can't find force hal1, sucks.
At least the manual controls it's a very sweet thing
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Did you check it out properly? It is in-built in app itself.
Wonder Wicked Witch said:
Did you check it out properly? It is in-built in app itself.
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I have check the same option that you show in your screen shot, but maybe it's because I have the trial version
Liacon said:
I can't use the RAW format, the scrren get mad and the camera crash, am i the only one with this problem?
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Same problem here.
Liacon said:
I have check the same option that you show in your screen shot, but maybe it's because I have the trial version
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Maybe you can get it for free if you Google it.
YoYoRishi said:
Same problem here.
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With camera api2 raw fails as it is not supported in P2 right now. But without camera api2 or with Hal1 enabled you can capture raw image in DNG format.
Hello! Shutter speed is important for shooting night landscapes. The developers have limited the maximum shutter speed to 1/10 second. Therefore, automation puts a large ISO. Noise reduction turns parts into spots. Night photos from the A8 look much worse than on phones (cheaper) with the possibility of long exposure.
Is it possible to modify the software to remove the exposure limit? Third-party applications using the camera 2 api do not provide such an opportunity...
jon887 said:
Third-party applications using the camera 2 api do not provide such an opportunity...
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Try with Open Camera: https://opencamera.sourceforge.io
Try the manual mode Exposure compensation, ISO and Manual White Balance.
Quote from the FAQ:
ISO and shutter speed sliders - If Camera2 API is used, and a non-auto ISO mode is selected, instead of the exposure compensation sliders, two sliders will appear allowing you to control the ISO more finely, and (if supported) the exposure (shutter speed) time.
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Just wondering if there's any way I can get an astrophotography time lapse greater than 1 second? I would love to have 60 seconds, but I know it would probably take 4 hours or something.
Just wondering if this is possible or there's any third party apps that might be able to do this (take a longer exposure than the 4 minutes that astrophotography takes)?
I don't think it is possible, the astro time-lapse is made up from the images used to and then stacked for the astro image itself so you would end up with shed loads of images as well.
Have you tried just using the normal time-lapse option in the video settings?
Exactly, take a normal night video and then slow it down with editing software.
schmeggy929 said:
Exactly, take a normal night video and then slow it down with editing software.
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The dude is talking about astrophotography and long exposure shots for a reason. What will a "night video" do good? And timelapse is not slowing down the video. lmao
That is my mistake, I totally read his post wrong.
Thing is the astro time laps is made up of the individual shots taken when Astrophotography mode is active so those individual image have been taken at f1.85, if you just did a normal time lapse using the main lens the video will still be at f1.85 and with a bit of post processing it should work.
The other way around it is to just take a night mode photo every 30 seconds for 2 hours using a timer and a Bluetooth remote.
MrBelter said:
Thing is the astro time laps is made up of the individual shots taken when Astrophotography mode is active so those individual image have been taken at f1.85, if you just did a normal time lapse using the main lens the video will still be at f1.85 and with a bit of post processing it should work.
The other way around it is to just take a night mode photo every 30 seconds for 2 hours using a timer and a Bluetooth remote.
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You're talking about Aperture that is FIXED and completely irrelevant in this case. It's not like you have a variable aperture on the lens so you can adjust it.
What matters in his case is the shutter speed and the exposure time.
And no, normal timelapse WON'T work because the shutter speed will be low (fast) and the phone will try to compensate by pushing the ISO high. You'll end up with very dark scenes and TONS of noise.
And what makes Astro mode very important is the FRAME STACKING. Frame stacking reduces the overall noise and increases the "quality" of the image.
Deadmau-five said:
Just wondering if there's any way I can get an astrophotography time lapse greater than 1 second? I would love to have 60 seconds, but I know it would probably take 4 hours or something.
Just wondering if this is possible or there's any third party apps that might be able to do this (take a longer exposure than the 4 minutes that astrophotography takes)?
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Not with stock camera.
You can try MotionCam Pro for that. It has a timelapse option where you can set your exposure time even to 15 seconds.
MotionCam is mainly for RAW video recording, but you can do photos and time-lapses. The output is absolutely GREAT. You're working with a RAW VIDEO basically and the quality is not comparable to ANY other app.
I had one Astro timelapse from it but I can't seem to find it now. It's sh**y weather outside now so can't do even a short one. I could do just a daylight one so you can see what quality I'm talking about here.
Uploaded a screenshot of the viewfinder. As you can see on the SS, you can adjust the ISO and shutter speed (among many other things) and do a timelapse.
This is basically taking RAW shots that you can later post process with various editing software like, Davinci Resolve, Adobe Premiere, Vegas, etc...
What you get is a video quality on the level of a DSLR and BETTER because there is no post-processing involved on the phone, it's basically RAW DNG images taken (sequence) that you can export (render) into a video at your QUALITY choice with YOUR post-processing involved.
Here is one sample I shot at and rendered to 4k60 (no color grading, just stock output).
Keep in mind that this is YOUTUBE, the quality of the original video is FAR better.
JohnTheFarm3r said:
You're talking about Aperture that is FIXED and completely irrelevant in this case. It's not like you have a variable aperture on the lens so you can adjust it.
What matters in his case is the shutter speed and the exposure time.
And no, normal timelapse WON'T work because the shutter speed will be low (fast) and the phone will try to compensate by pushing the ISO high. You'll end up with very dark scenes and TONS of noise.
And what makes Astro mode very important is the FRAME STACKING. Frame stacking reduces the overall noise and increases the "quality" of the image.
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I know the aperture is fixed that's why i said it should work given the astrophotography mode time lapse is made up from the 16 images taken when the mode is active and not once the images have been stacked in to a single image. Given the way you talk you of all people should appreciate just how fast f1.85 is, not a single one of my Canon L lenses is that fast or even comes anywhere close to it.
The OP has nothing to lose by giving it a go before recommending extra software and shooting raw (it is raw BTW if we are getting picky, it isn't an acronym for anything).
MrBelter said:
I know the aperture is fixed that's why i said it should work given the astrophotography mode time lapse is made up from the 16 images taken when the mode is active and not once the images have been stacked in to a single image. Given the way you talk you of all people should appreciate just how fast f1.85 is, not a single one of my Canon L lenses is that fast or even comes anywhere close to it.
The OP has nothing to lose by giving it a go before recommending extra software and shooting raw (it is raw BTW if we are getting picky, it isn't an acronym for anything).
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Where did I say ANYTHING against the fixed aperture of F1.85? I just said that since it's fixed, it's not relevant to the "settings" he uses since he CAN'T change the aperture value anyway.
It's not about "losing" anything, it's about the technical part of understanding that your recommendation won't work because it doesn't use long exposure shutter speeds or frame stacking.
By NOT using frame stacking, the noise will be horrible and there is little much you can do with post-processing without killing completely the "details" on the photo by suppressing both luma and chroma noise.
Another thing is that regular timelapse doesn't push long exposures...It's just not meant to be used for "astro", that's all.
Erm ok fella but how do you think this was all done before Google and its wonderful computational photography came along?
My point about the aperture is it is very fast so it being fixed is not irrelevant at all given it is the only chance of this even working, the OP may have tried it at 0.5x or 5x where the apertures are much slower, the OP has absolutely nothing to lose by giving it a go, it might be crap, you might end up with only the brightest objects in the sky, you might end up with a noisy mush and yet it might be good fun who knows.
Sadly there is always one person that comes along and stomps on the parade because they know best though isn't there?
MrBelter said:
Erm ok fella but how do you think this was all done before Google and its wonderful computational photography came along?
My point about the aperture is it is very fast so it being fixed is not irrelevant at all given it is the only chance of this even working, the OP may have tried it at 0.5x or 5x where the apertures are much slower, the OP has absolutely nothing to lose by giving it a go, it might be crap, you might end up with only the brightest objects in the sky, you might end up with a noisy mush and yet it might be good fun who knows.
Sadly there is always one person that comes along and stomps on the parade because they know best though isn't there?
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It was done in a way that results were not even close to what we have today. Why use "outdated" methods when we have these VERY capable devices?
The app I suggested is great and has exactly what is he looking for.
Your logic of "How did we do this before XY time" is equal to "Let's just ride horses instead of cars because that's how we did it before". lmao