Just wondering if there's any way I can get an astrophotography time lapse greater than 1 second? I would love to have 60 seconds, but I know it would probably take 4 hours or something.
Just wondering if this is possible or there's any third party apps that might be able to do this (take a longer exposure than the 4 minutes that astrophotography takes)?
I don't think it is possible, the astro time-lapse is made up from the images used to and then stacked for the astro image itself so you would end up with shed loads of images as well.
Have you tried just using the normal time-lapse option in the video settings?
Exactly, take a normal night video and then slow it down with editing software.
schmeggy929 said:
Exactly, take a normal night video and then slow it down with editing software.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The dude is talking about astrophotography and long exposure shots for a reason. What will a "night video" do good? And timelapse is not slowing down the video. lmao
That is my mistake, I totally read his post wrong.
Thing is the astro time laps is made up of the individual shots taken when Astrophotography mode is active so those individual image have been taken at f1.85, if you just did a normal time lapse using the main lens the video will still be at f1.85 and with a bit of post processing it should work.
The other way around it is to just take a night mode photo every 30 seconds for 2 hours using a timer and a Bluetooth remote.
MrBelter said:
Thing is the astro time laps is made up of the individual shots taken when Astrophotography mode is active so those individual image have been taken at f1.85, if you just did a normal time lapse using the main lens the video will still be at f1.85 and with a bit of post processing it should work.
The other way around it is to just take a night mode photo every 30 seconds for 2 hours using a timer and a Bluetooth remote.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're talking about Aperture that is FIXED and completely irrelevant in this case. It's not like you have a variable aperture on the lens so you can adjust it.
What matters in his case is the shutter speed and the exposure time.
And no, normal timelapse WON'T work because the shutter speed will be low (fast) and the phone will try to compensate by pushing the ISO high. You'll end up with very dark scenes and TONS of noise.
And what makes Astro mode very important is the FRAME STACKING. Frame stacking reduces the overall noise and increases the "quality" of the image.
Deadmau-five said:
Just wondering if there's any way I can get an astrophotography time lapse greater than 1 second? I would love to have 60 seconds, but I know it would probably take 4 hours or something.
Just wondering if this is possible or there's any third party apps that might be able to do this (take a longer exposure than the 4 minutes that astrophotography takes)?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not with stock camera.
You can try MotionCam Pro for that. It has a timelapse option where you can set your exposure time even to 15 seconds.
MotionCam is mainly for RAW video recording, but you can do photos and time-lapses. The output is absolutely GREAT. You're working with a RAW VIDEO basically and the quality is not comparable to ANY other app.
I had one Astro timelapse from it but I can't seem to find it now. It's sh**y weather outside now so can't do even a short one. I could do just a daylight one so you can see what quality I'm talking about here.
Uploaded a screenshot of the viewfinder. As you can see on the SS, you can adjust the ISO and shutter speed (among many other things) and do a timelapse.
This is basically taking RAW shots that you can later post process with various editing software like, Davinci Resolve, Adobe Premiere, Vegas, etc...
What you get is a video quality on the level of a DSLR and BETTER because there is no post-processing involved on the phone, it's basically RAW DNG images taken (sequence) that you can export (render) into a video at your QUALITY choice with YOUR post-processing involved.
Here is one sample I shot at and rendered to 4k60 (no color grading, just stock output).
Keep in mind that this is YOUTUBE, the quality of the original video is FAR better.
JohnTheFarm3r said:
You're talking about Aperture that is FIXED and completely irrelevant in this case. It's not like you have a variable aperture on the lens so you can adjust it.
What matters in his case is the shutter speed and the exposure time.
And no, normal timelapse WON'T work because the shutter speed will be low (fast) and the phone will try to compensate by pushing the ISO high. You'll end up with very dark scenes and TONS of noise.
And what makes Astro mode very important is the FRAME STACKING. Frame stacking reduces the overall noise and increases the "quality" of the image.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know the aperture is fixed that's why i said it should work given the astrophotography mode time lapse is made up from the 16 images taken when the mode is active and not once the images have been stacked in to a single image. Given the way you talk you of all people should appreciate just how fast f1.85 is, not a single one of my Canon L lenses is that fast or even comes anywhere close to it.
The OP has nothing to lose by giving it a go before recommending extra software and shooting raw (it is raw BTW if we are getting picky, it isn't an acronym for anything).
MrBelter said:
I know the aperture is fixed that's why i said it should work given the astrophotography mode time lapse is made up from the 16 images taken when the mode is active and not once the images have been stacked in to a single image. Given the way you talk you of all people should appreciate just how fast f1.85 is, not a single one of my Canon L lenses is that fast or even comes anywhere close to it.
The OP has nothing to lose by giving it a go before recommending extra software and shooting raw (it is raw BTW if we are getting picky, it isn't an acronym for anything).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where did I say ANYTHING against the fixed aperture of F1.85? I just said that since it's fixed, it's not relevant to the "settings" he uses since he CAN'T change the aperture value anyway.
It's not about "losing" anything, it's about the technical part of understanding that your recommendation won't work because it doesn't use long exposure shutter speeds or frame stacking.
By NOT using frame stacking, the noise will be horrible and there is little much you can do with post-processing without killing completely the "details" on the photo by suppressing both luma and chroma noise.
Another thing is that regular timelapse doesn't push long exposures...It's just not meant to be used for "astro", that's all.
Erm ok fella but how do you think this was all done before Google and its wonderful computational photography came along?
My point about the aperture is it is very fast so it being fixed is not irrelevant at all given it is the only chance of this even working, the OP may have tried it at 0.5x or 5x where the apertures are much slower, the OP has absolutely nothing to lose by giving it a go, it might be crap, you might end up with only the brightest objects in the sky, you might end up with a noisy mush and yet it might be good fun who knows.
Sadly there is always one person that comes along and stomps on the parade because they know best though isn't there?
MrBelter said:
Erm ok fella but how do you think this was all done before Google and its wonderful computational photography came along?
My point about the aperture is it is very fast so it being fixed is not irrelevant at all given it is the only chance of this even working, the OP may have tried it at 0.5x or 5x where the apertures are much slower, the OP has absolutely nothing to lose by giving it a go, it might be crap, you might end up with only the brightest objects in the sky, you might end up with a noisy mush and yet it might be good fun who knows.
Sadly there is always one person that comes along and stomps on the parade because they know best though isn't there?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It was done in a way that results were not even close to what we have today. Why use "outdated" methods when we have these VERY capable devices?
The app I suggested is great and has exactly what is he looking for.
Your logic of "How did we do this before XY time" is equal to "Let's just ride horses instead of cars because that's how we did it before". lmao
Related
I was testing out the HDR options for this and they do not seem to do much at all. There is a difference, but it is VERY minor. I took a shot without HDR, one with HDR, and then one using the free HDR app, and the HDR app simply blew the HTC HDR mode completely out of the water...
Has anyone else had any experience with this? Is there something I may be missing?
HDR always seemed like something better left to photo editing software to me (like photoshop). Phone camera filters always seem kind of lackluster, but then again, none of us are taking professional shots with a cell camera I assume
On topic though, I wouldn't doubt it being better. Sense stuff isn't exactly always perfection as far as software quality and HDR was probably just an afterthought tied into the camera so they could tick off a notch somewhere on some sheet for features.
Absolutely the same as my experience. I used HDR Camera from the market before this (free), and I really loved its results. When I installed the 3.0 Sense camera and saw the HDR setting, I was happy until I tried it. My theory is that it is NOT taking multiple pictures, but only doing an image adjustment --->> NOT the same thing. HDR Camera doesn't have the issues that some of you described. You do not have to be rock steady and my phone is plenty fast enough to take the three photos within about a second. The image settings are also adjustable (color, etc.).
On the other hand, the panorama mode in the Sense camera is Awesome!
yareally said:
HDR always seemed like something better left to photo editing software to me (like photoshop). Phone camera filters always seem kind of lackluster, but then again, none of us are taking professional shots with a cell camera I assume
On topic though, I wouldn't doubt it being better. Sense stuff isn't exactly always perfection as far as software quality and HDR was probably just an afterthought tied into the camera so they could tick off a notch somewhere on some sheet for features.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Software cannot do what HDR does. HDR takes 2 pictures, adjusting the gain on the sensor between low and high. It combines the best of both images to gain detail in low light areas and avoid over exposure in high light areas. Software will not work after the fact because the extra information gained from low/high gain is not present. Unfortunately the HDR option is poorly implemented by HTC. If you try HDR on the Iphone, you can see a drastic difference.
Actually, I use Pro HDR on my Evo, and it takes fantastic pictures in true HDR. It is a touch slower than a pro camera, but it does actually meter the scene and adjust the camera's aperture accordingly. It then allows for adjustments between the composite image and allows for saving the final as well as the source images, meaning you can do further editing elsewhere. Outside of some cropping, I haven't had problems.
With that said, I would be curious to know what the deal is with Sense. What's interesting is if you put it in HDR mode, it shows the little icon in the top right with multiple images...like whoever designed it at least understood how true HDR *should* operate. Then, if you push and release it instead of the regular shutter button, it beeps and you hear the lens go, and the image focuses itself. So...idk. I don't see a noticeable effect in the regular images at all...
I searched for camera mods to allow for capturing of RAW data from the sensor on the Charge.
As far as I can tell, nobody has been successful in getting any Android phone to capture the RAW data.
Does anybody know if this is possible? I know others who would love to have the ability. I didn't really want to start a discussion of RAW vs JPEG compression, etc. I know the drawbacks and advantages of RAW.
I think that this would require camera firmware modifications as well as Camera APK modifications. My development knowledge is very limited, hence my name.
Does anybody know if this would require a reasonable about of effort or if its far beyond being worth the trouble?
It looks possible, and the code is in the API to do this, but it has yet to be done as far as I know. It looks to be an issue with the "RAW callback function" always returning NULL. If I have some time I will to look into it.
Do Not ask Questions in the Development thread if it is not Development it does not belong in here
Moving to General
My apologies and thanks.
Bumping this, seems like an interesting feature, considering it has API support.
bcpk said:
Bumping this, seems like an interesting feature, considering it has API support.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would plus one this
Sent from my Xoom using XDA Premium App
I don't know if its prohibitively difficult to mod, but I couldn't find any other phone which has been developed to shoot RAW. Perhaps people just haven't shown much interest.
I would love this feature, but I figure most people shooting in RAW already have a "real" camera. I would expect a decent increase in photo quality though. I have 32 GB on my phone waiting to store some RAW data!
I just wish someone would mod the camera APK to use +2 sharpness, which would result in better quality photos. The camera app applies a bad blur/denoise filter on the lower sharpness settings which reduces the quality of the picture. Worse, the camera does not save that setting, so it needs to be set each time I use it.
BeefJerky9 said:
I just wish someone would mod the camera APK to use +2 sharpness, which would result in better quality photos. The camera app applies a bad blur/denoise filter on the lower sharpness settings which reduces the quality of the picture. Worse, the camera does not save that setting, so it needs to be set each time I use it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You know u can modify the frame work for the camera, I've done it before, search xda. I doubt remember the form
Sent from my DROIDX using XDA Premium App
xdadevnube said:
I don't know if its prohibitively difficult to mod, but I couldn't find any other phone which has been developed to shoot RAW. Perhaps people just haven't shown much interest.
I would love this feature, but I figure most people shooting in RAW already have a "real" camera. I would expect a decent increase in photo quality though. I have 32 GB on my phone waiting to store some RAW data!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Shooting raw will make the color correction possible which will significantly boost the image quality to...a 70 dollars' compact camera you can find on ebay, BUT, the best camera is always the one that is with you, so I always support anyone who like to improve android phone's shooting ability.
---------- Post added at 02:38 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:26 AM ----------
The real issue isn't allowing the camera to shoot raw because they can be done but the raw format will not be recognized by any raw processing software on the market. The possible way is to use DNG format which will significantly increase the difficulty of modification because it means the programmer will put in hours to create a brand new application to understand and compress the raw file to the DNG file...unlike Canon, android does not have an official raw format...so everything will need to start from zero. This process could easily take 20 very experienced engineers up to a year to complete, and the result might not be very ideal and will need another year to modify and improve...so we are looking at a potentially five million dollars project here - and it will better be turning in to profitable application - and if so it will have to be the best selling android app ever.
xdadevnube said:
I don't know if its prohibitively difficult to mod, but I couldn't find any other phone which has been developed to shoot RAW. Perhaps people just haven't shown much interest.
I would love this feature, but I figure most people shooting in RAW already have a "real" camera. I would expect a decent increase in photo quality though. I have 32 GB on my phone waiting to store some RAW data!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, most (like myself) probably do but since I'm carrying around a high quality 8 megapixel camera in my pocket I'd like to be able to shoot in raw for those times that I don't have my DSLR with me. There is so much more that com be done to a RAW photograph, not to mention not having any data loss form it being converted to a jpeg. Looking forward to seeing if anyone can make this possible.
desmalta said:
Yes, most (like myself) probably do but since I'm carrying around a high quality 8 megapixel camera in my pocket I'd like to be able to shoot in raw for those times that I don't have my DSLR with me. There is so much more that com be done to a RAW photograph, not to mention not having any data loss form it being converted to a jpeg. Looking forward to seeing if anyone can make this possible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just a reminder....this is a cell phone, not a camera!
buhohitr said:
Just a reminder....this is a cell phone, not a camera!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just a reminder, anything is possible in the world of android!
Sent from my SCH-I510 using XDA App
desmalta said:
Yes, most (like myself) probably do but since I'm carrying around a high quality 8 megapixel camera in my pocket I'd like to be able to shoot in raw for those times that I don't have my DSLR with me. There is so much more that com be done to a RAW photograph, not to mention not having any data loss form it being converted to a jpeg. Looking forward to seeing if anyone can make this possible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
RAW does not equal improved quality if the camera is not capturing more image information prior to compressing to JPG. You're still working with a tiny fixed lens and dense, compact sensor with tiny photo sites. This is limiting the amount and quality of light. Shooting RAW will not change this. JPG compression is not a limiting factor for image quality. You won't be able to resolve significantly finer detail or shoot in lower light settings just because you're shooting RAW. Open a JPG as RAW with Photoshop, it'll provide a similar experience.
You'll end up with similar photo quality, a bit more flexibility in PP, and huge lag while the camera tries to handle transfering and saving the huge photo file 10x larger than what it was designed to handle.
These are the only mobile phone sensors I've seen that would support or justify shooting in RAW.
Another story on them: http://www.engadget.com/2011/04/14/omnivisions-new-12mp-cmos-sensor-shoots-raw-pics-and-1080-60p-v/
In other words, RAW will be here eventually. When it is, it'll be an improvement. To try and force it (if it were even possible) with the sensor and hardware limitations in the DC is pointless.
charlie_c said:
RAW does not equal improved quality if the camera is not capturing more image information prior to compressing to JPG.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
true, but shooting raw does preserve more of the image, because its the raw/real image that sensors seems is not a jpg processed image the way camera applications decided the scene should look like.
basically would would be taking your camera off the auto mode.
with raw you would have greated control over white balance, shadows, highlights etc...
There is a question about how many bits of image data you got on mobile sensor. On DSLR there is 12 or 14 bits information that is compressed to 8bit JPG information - that's why there is plenty more information about the image in RAW format. If CMOS in your mobile phone deliver just strait 8bit - your RAW will not have much more data.
As I don't have slightest idea how many bits of data is served by mobile camera sensor I can't say if there is a reason for RAW.
i found this
http://stackoverflow.com/questions/14777953/how-to-capture-raw-image-from-android-camera
i am really looking forward for a raw file from android camera this will be a huge move forward to the mobile world and the abilities of android
and since its supported in the api means google wants it to happen
Edit:
Create this dir /data/misc/camera/RaW_PiCtUrEs case sensitive btw
Assuming the capture mode used is high-quality and not high-quality-zsl it should produce a raw image everytime you capture a jpeg image
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
try this maybe it will work i found it here : http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1977654&nocache=1
Hey there,
it's really ridiculous. I'm either blind or disappointed on the play store and I really hope you can help me out. Until now I was driving with Camera MX that can take videos and pictures and has something called live shot, so I won't miss great moments. Unfortunately, it does not take continuous shots in full quality, instead it records a video and let allow me to select the frames I want to export as images.
This sucks in term of quality. I'm looking for an app that takes real shots. I rather want high quality with lesser shots per seconds, however most apps target for speed and decrease quality. Another big thing is I want to record videos with it, too. And this is the moment were every burst shotter fails.
I'd like to have aperture, ISO value, and exposure time settings for better night photos, too. Half of the apps did not even adjust brightness on my LGG4 (CM13), but none of them fulfilled my expectations.
I really hope anybody can help me out with that. Thank you!
For anybody who came here for the same reason, I found this website: https://softwarerecs.stackexchange....ith-shutter-mode-easy-manual-config-and-video
At the end I decided to go for OpenCamera, because A Better Camera seems not to work on CM.
It is boring to always use the auto mode in camera so let's try the manual mode and have greater quality pictures, which is better than auto mode.
What is manual mode ?
Manual mode is one of the main settings on your camera, and it lets you manually control shutter speed, white balance, manual focus, and ISO in most. These three settings work together to control the how bright or dark your photo is (known as exposure), as well as change the overall look of the image.
What is ISO ?
In photography ISO measures the sensitivity of the image sensor. The same principles apply as in film photography – the lower the number the less sensitive your camera is to light and the finer the grain. Higher ISO settings are generally used in darker situations to get faster shutter speeds.
What is Shutter Speed ?
In photography, shutter speed or exposure time is the length of time when the film or digital sensor inside the camera is exposed to light, also when a camera's shutter is open when taking a photograph. The amount of light that reaches the film or image sensor is proportional to the exposure time.
What is White balancing ?
White balancing is a process in which a camera will attempt to detect the type of white light largely visible in different environments. This is typically utilized to account for different light sources (fluorescent, incandescent, etc.), as well as different weather types and times of day (overcast, sunny, sunset, etc.). White balance generally focuses on collecting the proper temperature of white light in a scene, which ranges from cold (blue-tinted) to warm (orange or gold-tinted).
This is one setting that is often best left on automatic settings, unless the viewfinder suggests that the automatic white balance is obviously wrong. Of note, RAW images will have to be manually white balanced in post-processing, as RAW shooting will not modify the white balance in-camera.
What is Manual Focus ?
Manual focus controls are a more recent and much-appreciated addition to the control suite of manual smartphone photographers. Most camera apps features a simple and intuitive circular slider which can be used to accurately set focus manually in lieu of the jumpier and imperfect auto-focus, something which is often exaggerated when trying to take photos of close subjects. If you want to take a closer pic of something very near try macro focus.
What is Manual exposure ?
manual exposure is a small supplement to ISO and shutter speed settings, and it is one of the rarer manual settings one will find in smartphone camera applications. If a combination of shutter speed and ISO produce an unsatisfying image, manual exposure is often offered as a way of tweaking the brightness of an image in-camera. It can quite easily be replaced by simply modifying brightness after taking the photo, but it can sometimes be more efficient to get the image right the first time.
What do we have in our Lenovo P2 :
I had Camera api2 activated and snap camera hdr+ and oneplus 5 camera apps.
Shutter speed
Minimum 0.68s maximum 1/96423s
ISO
Minimum 100 Maximum 19200
Verdict approximate values
In low light condition
Higher ISO [ 500 ~ 19200 aprx] + Higher shutter speed [0.68 ~ 1/200 aprx]
In heavy light condition
Lower ISO [below 500 aprx] + Lower shutter speed [1/200s ~ 1/96423s aprx]
Camera Api2 advantages
Raw image capture support
In depth manual mode control
Enable camera api2
https://forum.xda-developers.com/lenovo-p2/themes/flashable-zip-activating-camera-api2-t3724207
Which app is best for manual mode?
? Snap camera HDR
https://www.google.co.in/search?q=Snap+camera+HDR+paid+apk&gws_rd=cr&dcr=0&ei=bXs-WuDaI4HEvQSYyLWQDQ [Google search result page, Cuz many getting confused about this app]
? Oneplus 5 camera
Download link https://forum.xda-developers.com/lenovo-p2/themes/stable-oneplus-5-camera-t3709983
? Adobe Photoshop Lightroom CC
? Camera FV 5
Reserved [for samples]
I can't use the RAW format, the scrren get mad and the camera crash, am i the only one with this problem?
Liacon said:
I can't use the RAW format, the scrren get mad and the camera crash, am i the only one with this problem?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Screenshot
It's like this with all the camera apps that have avaible the raw format
At first I was thinking that the problem it's present because I usa a micro sd, but the image gets mad even without it.
I'm on the last lineage build by Higway Star
Liacon said:
It's like this with all the camera apps that have avaible the raw format
At first I was thinking that the problem it's present because I usa a micro sd, but the image gets mad even without it.
I'm on the last lineage build by Higway Star
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Only the bug in camera driver can make mess like this.
Wonder Wicked Witch said:
Only the bug in camera driver can make mess like this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So it's a rom's related problem?
Liacon said:
So it's a rom's related problem?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same issue on stock s244, with every app.
Also, I've seen many others
Liacon said:
So it's a rom's related problem?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
icsdia said:
Same issue on stock s244, with every app.
Also, I've seen many others
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe due to changing roms in mobiles the camera driver can get into buggy, not confirmed yet.
If you want Camera with Raw capture try "snap camera HDR" with force HAL1 enabled in-app setting.
If you looking for completely manual configuration try camera api2 ON in-app setting.
[camera api2 HAL3 vs HAL1 screenshots]
I can't find force hal1, sucks.
At least the manual controls it's a very sweet thing
Liacon said:
I can't find force hal1, sucks.
At least the manual controls it's a very sweet thing
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you check it out properly? It is in-built in app itself.
Wonder Wicked Witch said:
Did you check it out properly? It is in-built in app itself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have check the same option that you show in your screen shot, but maybe it's because I have the trial version
Liacon said:
I can't use the RAW format, the scrren get mad and the camera crash, am i the only one with this problem?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same problem here.
Liacon said:
I have check the same option that you show in your screen shot, but maybe it's because I have the trial version
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe you can get it for free if you Google it.
YoYoRishi said:
Same problem here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
With camera api2 raw fails as it is not supported in P2 right now. But without camera api2 or with Hal1 enabled you can capture raw image in DNG format.
Hello there, other S10e owners,
Recently, I took advantage of an early Black Friday sale to get an S10e, the phone I was craving for a while. They said the image quality is on par with the Pixel 3 after the May update, but in reality, it's just as noisy and "oil-paintingish" as my Xperia Z1 Compact from four (!!!) years ago.
The samples are in the attachment of this forum post; the first and the third image was taken with the Google Camera app, and the second and forth one with the Samsung Camera app. The first two images were taken with HDR, but the latter ones without HDR.
As you can see in the non-HDR pictures, the Samsung Camera picture has less noise, but cold, washed-out colours and less detail thanks to the aggressive noise cancellation.
On the other hand, the Google Camera image has the correct colour representation and more detail, but with the sacrifice of noise cancellation.
With HDR+, though... Things get even worse. The Samsung Camera app now blurs out even more detail and the Google Camera app just cranks up the ISO to levels that make the image too bright.
In conclusion, the image quality is not on the promised levels, but I hope there's something I can do with it (like a good setup.xml file that can fix GCam to shoot exceptionally good images in both sun- and low light or fixing the Samsung Camera app). So, in order to fix this, I need your help. Please give me advice to pimp back up the image quality to the levels I saw in camera reviews.
Edit: Oops, I forgot to mention that I have the Exynos version.
ThePS4Gamer said:
Hello there, other S10e owners,
Recently, I took advantage of an early Black Friday sale to get an S10e, the phone I was craving for a while. They said the image quality is on par with the Pixel 3 after the May update, but in reality, it's just as noisy and "oil-paintingish" as my Xperia Z1 Compact from four (!!!) years ago.
The samples are in the attachment of this forum post; the first and the third image was taken with the Google Camera app, and the second and forth one with the Samsung Camera app. The first two images were taken with HDR, but the latter ones without HDR.
As you can see in the non-HDR pictures, the Samsung Camera picture has less noise, but cold, washed-out colours and less detail thanks to the aggressive noise cancellation.
On the other hand, the Google Camera image has the correct colour representation and more detail, but with the sacrifice of noise cancellation.
With HDR+, though... Things get even worse. The Samsung Camera app now blurs out even more detail and the Google Camera app just cranks up the ISO to levels that make the image too bright.
In conclusion, the image quality is not on the promised levels, but I hope there's something I can do with it (like a good setup.xml file that can fix GCam to shoot exceptionally good images in both sun- and low light or fixing the Samsung Camera app). So, in order to fix this, I need your help. Please give me advice to pimp back up the image quality to the levels I saw in camera reviews.
Edit: Oops, I forgot to mention that I have the Exynos version.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please give me the Gcam download link. I couldn't find any Gcam version that worked well on my S10e Exynos. Thanks
Julyh0rse.ManU said:
Please give me the Gcam download link. I couldn't find any Gcam version that worked well on my S10e Exynos. Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you can do something with it, here's the link: GCam Exynos APK
In sunlight, it should theoretically work with the stock settings, but they say it's recommended to change the auto-exposure correction to 1/2 sec, the Night Sight correction to 1/4 sec and the exposure compensation to -3,0 to get the best out of daytime GCam photos.
For Night Sight images, it's recommended to use the mackytravel-nightsight.xml file without any changes for outdoor night photos and for indoors, turn off auto-exposure correction and exposure compensation, change the Night Sight correction to 1
or 2 sec (depending on the level of darkness) and in the Advanced drop-down menu, turn off the ISO limit. This way, you can get more detail out from the S10e's powerful camera sensors.
Lastly, if you'd like to shoot something with the wide-angle lens, just change the auxiliary camera switching method to the long-press method.
You can find my GCam config folder with all of the said configuration files at the link here.
Just install the GCam apk, copy-paste the config folder to the root of your internal storage (/storage/emulated/0/) and double tap on the black area around the shutter button to choose between the three configuration files.
I've noticed a similar thing with my camera on my SD 855 model where images taken using the camera just don't look very natural or realistic. They look very much like a painting!
Currently I get better results with HDR on and scene optimiser turned off.
My iPhone 7 photos still look a bit more natural at times but obviously less detailed.
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