P905 won't charge anymore / corroded connector? - Galaxy Note Pro 12.2 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting

My P905 (bought second hand) had always a hard time charging. Taking ages and not fully charging.
Suddenly it wouldnt charge at all and went black
I removed the back cover and found the lcd cable corroded or some glue badly degraded (see attached image) that shouldn't be of any concern?
Any advise how to proceed? Just buying a new battrry and hoping for the best?

Related

Wireless charging stopped working

Does anyone else have this kind of trouble? Wireless charging just stopped working. I've tried with two chargers and no effect. Chargers can't be broken because they both charge my older Nexus 4 just fine. USB charging works just fine but I've kind of used to wireless and it drives me crazy since it doesn't work. I haven't dropped the phone or anything, I even replaced the back cover with new genuine OEM back cover since I thought that maybe the coils in back have been damaged or something.
Could it be software issue or what?
I had this same thing happen, although with mine, it was after a (about 2 foot) fall. It could be software, but doubtful, since you can verify that by simply turning your phone off (not in standby, but completely off), and seeing if the battery indicator comes up when you start charging. Regardless, Google will ask you to do a hard reset before they'll replace it to ensure that it's not software-related.
As I said, mine was replaced under warranty for this very issue, so Google does count this as a replaceable issue (provided you bought it from the Play Store). However, there is one thing to try first:
Draw an imaginary line across the bottom of the letters in "nexus" printed on the back cover, and follow that line until you're even with the flash. Right there, there's a clip that most people miss when replacing the cover. That clip MUST be securely fastened, or wireless charging won't work (the purpose of the clip is to keep the wireless charging pins engaged). Press down at that spot to make sure that the clip is engaged.
Barring that, I'd contact Google for replacement (or your carrier, if you bought it from there).
After several re-openings, it apparently finally worked. Those four little pins were somehow bit too low so that connection did last only few seconds. I pulled them up little bit with tweezers, push that copper thing on top of the battery all the way to bottom and firmly put the back cover on its place and now it's working again. I was so close sending this thing back to Google...
Somehow it still feels that it doesn't quite charge it with full power. It apparenly takes much more time than using AC charger. This wasn't the case when this problem didn't occure because it charged wirelessly very quickly.

[Q] A510 doesn't boot after battery charger burned off

Hey guys
I've a really big problem with my A510. Last week I charged my tab as usual. After a while I've checked my mails and felt that the tab was unusually hot, definitely hotter than on normal charges. I therefore disconnected the charger and the USB connector was terribly hot. I've checked the charger and noticed that the cablewas broken. I took a closer look and saw, that both wires have been ripped open and probably connected each other. I think it has created a short circuit, caused the USB connector to even melt in the inside.
Funny thing is, that it was possible to charge the tablet to around 60% and I've used it to order a new charger which arrived today, the battery is completely empty and the tablet can't be turned on. So I've connected the new (original Acer charger, no cheap copy). The orange LED on the power button appeared as usual, but I didn't turned it on as I wanted it to charge a bit before trying to booting it up. After an hour or so I checked the tablet and it was again unusually hot and the orange LED turned off. I've disconnected the charger and tried to power the tablet up, put nothing happened. Also pushing the reset button will not boot up the device. I've connected the charger again and the orange LED also appeared again, but after around 10 seconds it turned off again and the tablet got already hot within 30 seconds (around the area where Iconia Tab is written on the front side).
Does anyone have any ideas what could have happened? I'm thinking that the battery might have been damaged by the short circuit, but on the other hand I was able to use the tablet a day or so before the battery went down to 0% which would mean the battery might be ok.
I'm clueless right now and would be very happy for every idea.
Thanks!
Yesterday I've opened my tablet to check for any thing obvious. After opening the device I could already smell burned electronics. I further disassembled the device and found one IC on the mainboard which had some brownish powder on it, the IC type was no more readable. After plugging in the power charger this IC went extremely hot, so I assume that it burned while the broken charger was charging up the battery. I checked the internet for a replacement mainboard and found some on Alibaba. As the price is too high for me and I can't define if there are any more broken parts I decided to buy me a new tablet. As I was very satisfied with the product from Acer I've stayed with them and bought myself a Iconia Tab 10 FHD A3-A20.

Nexus 9 keyboard folio faulty

Hi I bought 2 keyboard folio from eBay brand new but it is like it haves a faulty battery. When I try to pair it with the tablet through NFC I press yes on the "do you want to pair the Nexus keyboard" but after some seconds it fails. But when I put the keyboard to charge it works. After I pair the devices and use the keyboard when I unplug it it stops working straight away. So I was wondering if this happened to anyone else and if it is any key combinations to hard reset the keyboard or something like that?
More people having the same issue!!!!!!!!
https://productforums.google.com/fo...ce=footer#!msg/nexus/miyKVULMUWo/7vH_5T0OGwAJ
Sent from my Nexus 9 using XDA-Developers Legacy app
Has anyone found a way to replace the battery or fix the charging issue, battery not charging?
Has anyone tried using a portable external battery charger to power the keyboard, how long does it last?
Until you unplug the external battery.
Sent from my HTC 10 using XDA-Developers Legacy app
I opened the keyboard and the battery seems to be dead because I tried to charge it with another charger and nothing was happening. On the keyboard I put another battery 400mah but still wasn't charging so I thing the board is faulty too. I will take a picture of the battery and upload it because I tried to find one but I couldn't.
Sent from my HTC 10 using XDA-Developers Legacy app
vincenzo697 said:
I opened the keyboard and the battery seems to be dead because I tried to charge it with another charger and nothing was happening. On the keyboard I put another battery 400mah but still wasn't charging so I thing the board is faulty too. I will take a picture of the battery and upload it because I tried to find one but I couldn't.
Sent from my HTC 10 using XDA-Developers Legacy app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please upload any pictures you can, would be really helpful.
I was considering buying a simple small portable battery charger 1500-2200-4000~ and using it, but it would discharge too quickly, attempting to charge the faulty one in the folio. Also considered taking the folio battery/charging component and splicing in portable battery charger..
Another option I thought of, is using a male to male micro usb cable from the Nexus 9 to the folio.
I am using a generic micro usb charger works fine. I also bought a male to male micro usb cable attached to the Nexus 9 and folio, also works great. The keyboard hardly registers drawing any power.
Sorry for the late reply. That's the original battery of the keyboard which i tried to find but couldn't. The hard part is that it needs to be 1.5mm to 2mm of thickness Max so the keyboard top part can close normally. The other pictures is the modification I made replacing the battery but with a thicker one. It wasn't charging so that's why I came to the conclusion that it must be the board too that it is faulty. I connect the - and + cables from the charger to the exposed cables to charge the battery and that's it.
Sent from my HTC 10 using XDA-Developers Legacy app
That's a lot of hardware. So the battery may be good and its the charger that's faulty. Thanks for the images!
clockcycle said:
That's a lot of hardware. So the battery may be good and its the charger that's faulty. Thanks for the images!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
NO. The battery too is faulty. Because I connect it straight to the charger and it doesn't charge.
Maybe?
vincenzo697 said:
NO. The battery too is faulty. Because I connect it straight to the charger and it doesn't charge.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey... Just bought a brand new one with the same issue straight out of the box.
Have you tried measuring the original battery with a multimeter?
The battery protection circuits will sometimes protect the battery from undervoltage by not letting them charge any more as it potentially damages them...
One way to attempt to recover the batteries is to remove the protection PCB and charge them with a LiPo charger at super low amps till they get up to like 3.3v then letting the original charger and battery protection finish charging it... (Kinda dangerous if battery really is damaged)
These things sat on shelves for years.... I can't imagine the batteries didn't drain.
Edit: did you take the keyboard apart??? Lol... Is it glued together??
I took mine apart... This is not a reversible process lol... Checked battery voltage and sure enough... 0 volts.... There's no Li-Ion charger that will ever try to charge that battery as there is a risk of fire.
Looks like HTC cheaped out on the battery protection circuit and it didn't cut off the battery below 3.3v and let it get to 0v... Gonna have to try to recover the battery using my lab power supply to trickle charge it... My lipo charger complains and won't charge it at all.
I'm having the same problem. Just bought one of these on Amazon for $30 and was excited to use it. How did they charge $130 for this when it came out?? This is useless. I'm going to have to return this junk. Any solutions before I do?
The solution is easy.
I have effected this repair on multiples of the nexus 9 folio keyboard.
Someone said earlier that the charging circuit is bad in addition to the cell being at 0v. This is simply not true. For the charging circuit and the cell to both be bad you will have likely hit the lottery in a bad way, or shorted and caused damage yourself.
Truth is that as mentioned before their protection circuit on their $130 keyboard was not up to the task. I make the assumption also that they overpriced these so heavily they sat until their hardware choices became apparent by making them DOA after the cell's voltage fell too low.
Someone stated that opening the keyboard is irreversible, this is also untrue, it only requires a bit of skill and patience.
Take it for what it is, because I would never recommend someone to revive a cell that had been sitting below 3.2v, it's just unsafe, but this is what worked for me as I didn't feel like digging through china stock to find a matching cell.
The cell is at 0v, so the fix is simple, connect another similar chemistry (3.2v-4.2v) cell in parallel (between the protection circuit and the cell.) I just used and 18650 from a laptop battery. Let's call this a "jump start." Start the charging and disconnect the second cell. Red charge LED should remain solid and charge cell 1 to 4.2v and you are good to go.
As far as the details, we know that the cell is on the left side, so only heat and slice adhesive from just beyond the corner to the center, slide your tool under the cell to remove the adhesion from the main body and carefully slip the cell out far enough to get at the contacts in order to get between the protection circuit and the cell.
main points
1 DO NOT PUNCTURE THE CELL (ALUMINUM TEARS EASILY)
2 DO NOT DAMAGE THE RED AND BLACK LEADS FROM THE PROTECTION CIRCUIT TO THE MAIN BOARD
3 DO NOT PRY OPEN THE OUTSIDE CORNER NEXT TO THE CELL AS THIS CORNER IS MORE SUSCEPTIBLE TO DEFORMATION THAN OTHER AREAS
Probably best left to a skilled tech, but it can certainly be done.
The adhesive htc uses is much like hot glue, so after scraping the old glue out reseal and press with a hot glue gun (precision tip recommended,) easy peasy.
On a final note, shame on you htc (and google.)
k2thec said:
The solution is easy.
I have effected this repair on multiples of the nexus 9 folio keyboard.
Someone said earlier that the charging circuit is bad in addition to the cell being at 0v. This is simply not true. For the charging circuit and the cell to both be bad you will have likely hit the lottery in a bad way, or shorted and caused damage yourself.
Truth is that as mentioned before their protection circuit on their $130 keyboard was not up to the task. I make the assumption also that they overpriced these so heavily they sat until their hardware choices became apparent by making them DOA after the cell's voltage fell too low.
Someone stated that opening the keyboard is irreversible, this is also untrue, it only requires a bit of skill and patience.
Take it for what it is, because I would never recommend someone to revive a cell that had been sitting below 3.2v, it's just unsafe, but this is what worked for me as I didn't feel like digging through china stock to find a matching cell.
The cell is at 0v, so the fix is simple, connect another similar chemistry (3.2v-4.2v) cell in parallel (between the protection circuit and the cell.) I just used and 18650 from a laptop battery. Let's call this a "jump start." Start the charging and disconnect the second cell. Red charge LED should remain solid and charge cell 1 to 4.2v and you are good to go.
As far as the details, we know that the cell is on the left side, so only heat and slice adhesive from just beyond the corner to the center, slide your tool under the cell to remove the adhesion from the main body and carefully slip the cell out far enough to get at the contacts in order to get between the protection circuit and the cell.
main points
1 DO NOT PUNCTURE THE CELL (ALUMINUM TEARS EASILY)
2 DO NOT DAMAGE THE RED AND BLACK LEADS FROM THE PROTECTION CIRCUIT TO THE MAIN BOARD
3 DO NOT PRY OPEN THE OUTSIDE CORNER NEXT TO THE CELL AS THIS CORNER IS MORE SUSCEPTIBLE TO DEFORMATION THAN OTHER AREAS
Probably best left to a skilled tech, but it can certainly be done.
The adhesive htc uses is much like hot glue, so after scraping the old glue out reseal and press with a hot glue gun (precision tip recommended,) easy peasy.
On a final note, shame on you htc (and google.)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I want to try this repair on my keyboard. do you have pictures where to connect the wires.
I have a laptop battery
i have the case pulled apart
Just want to make sure that the wires are in the correct place.
The folio battery has a USB jack at one end and a switch (on/off perhaps) and a blue light at the other. What's happening when the blue light blinks?
Lindommer said:
The folio battery has a USB jack at one end and a switch (on/off perhaps) and a blue light at the other. What's happening when the blue light blinks?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i meant if i take the keyboard apart.
I ordered another on off ebay, but i used the suggestion i thiunk i saw on here. I have a microusb OTG plugged into the nexus 9 and running a usb to the keyboard. it is supplying enough power to run he keyboard. also it does not seem top drain much power at all.
I'm typing this message on the folio keyboard. if the other keyboard folio has the same issue then i can at lease use this solution to use the folio.
now i need to order a shorter usb to microusb cord so i dont have to rubber band the cord and look sloppy when carrying it around
Thanks for that. But what about the blinking blue light?
Lindommer said:
Thanks for that. But what about the blinking blue light?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is paring mode if in not mistaken.
Nah, it's definitely a charging light. Doesn't blink when pairing but does when a USB charging lead is plugged in. Goes off after a couple of minutes, which confirms what we all know: the keyboard doesn't/won't charge.
Picked up one of these new from Ebay. It doesn't seem to want to charge and will only work when plugged in with charger. Anyway to get it working? Guess it's a return

Battery or Charging Port- Please review

In short, I have an HTC U11. I have gotten water in the connector a few times which caused the phone to turn off or fingerprint scanner to stop working but then after a few hours would be fine again. Several months later I noticed it took a very long time to charge. I downloaded an app that basically diagnoses the amperage and it said that it was fine, but I honestly could not tell you if it was true or not. Fast forward a couple of weeks, I drop my phone and the screen cracks. I replaced the screen at home and today the battery still charged slow.
So here is what I did
- Used rubbing alcohol to clean out the charge port and found black gunk inside. I thought it was dry and I plugged the charger in and I received a warning and buzzing stating it was wet or had debris inside. I removed the charger.
- An hour later I plugged it into my car, same problem as a few weeks ago with slow charge, but it was working. I unplugged my phone to go to class. After class I plugged in the USB , noticed slow charge, then pulled the USB C out and back in, I received the warning again and now it wouldn't charge. No red light, no charge now
- Removed the back cover. I noticed the battery has no heat after 5 minutes of being plugged in but the charging port is absolutely on fire. It even smells like melted plastic. I removed all the black gunk, same problem.
Summary of fault
- Gradual slow charge.
- Warning that debris or water damage is in the connector
- Black gunk found inside the connector (but not on the charge port board)
- Charging port board gets hot to touch
- Battery stays cool
The big question:
Charging port or battery?
is there a more appropriate forum for this?
Just from the thread its is clear the problem would be with both. When the charging port is not functioning well, it greatly impacts on your battery, and that could render the battery not holding charge for long.

No juice?

I recently bought a cracked version of this phone off eBay, everything worked on it when I got it (with the exception of the cracked screen.) So I got the replacement screen and a new battery and now it doesn't charge up. I get a little flashing white LED at the top of the screen, any ideas what it could be?
Best guess is that something didn't get connected properly when the device was re-assembled (tiny ribon cables are difficult).
Moto, with all it's variants per model, is incredibly frustrating. It may also be that the replacement screen or battery is specific to a different variant of the same model.
In either case, I would try putting the old battery back (double checking those ribbon cables, looking for damage, etc) and then seeing if the device charges.
Good luck.
It's not the connectors, my guess is something went wrong with the screen, I don't have the original charger so maybe that might be the issue?
I don't have the original charger so maybe that might be the issue?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think that's unlikely, I charge off different cables, laptop, adapter blocks, and usb a wall plugs. This all works fine. I also think the screen is unlikely.
Can you access the device via usb (i.e. adb or read/write files)?
I know its a long shot, but I've found that pocket lint collects in the phone plug and given enough time make the cable connection difficult or imposible. I have to periodically clean it out (it's almost not visable at the very bottom of the plug housing) using a wooden tooth pick.
Oh, I commpletely neglected the obvious - maybe the replacement battery is bad.
I thought it might be the battery the first go around and had a replacement sent, still nothing.
Well... I'm out of ideas atm. You could try putting the old screen back on just to see if battery charges - but ug, that's a job with potentially a disappointing outcome. At least you would know and then could decide if your going to spend more effort on it.

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