How to control audio power output from speakerwire? - MTCD Android Head Units Q&A

Hello!
I've heard that in factory settings of certain headunits there is a possibility to change Voltage of power output (stock values are too powerful for BOSE system in a lot of cars). Is this a possibility of chip itsefl (for ex. PX5/PX6) or the fact that a radio is MTCB/MTCD or not?
I'm asking because I've found relatively cheap HU on aliexpress which probably isn't MTCB/MCTD but it have PX6.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_BPTLT6

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Android Head Units Sound Control Software

Question about the software on these things. Do they have control for Crossovers for the Front, Rear and Sub? Does the EQ settings stick to the Front, Rear and Sub? Is anyone able to tap into the sound control through a app or something like that?
lowridincrew said:
Question about the software on these things. Do they have control for Crossovers for the Front, Rear and Sub? Does the EQ settings stick to the Front, Rear and Sub? Is anyone able to tap into the sound control through a app or something like that?
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They have a nice EQ but no crossover setting. You also cant control the sub out put its on at full out put all the time. Had to put in a bass knob to fix that.
Going deeper than the built in audio and I found out some professional audio cards also work and Creative brand hardware. Check this out
http://www.extreamsd.com/index.php/2015-07-22-12-01-14/usb-audio-driver
lowridincrew said:
Going deeper than the built in audio and I found out some professional audio cards also work and Creative brand hardware. Check this out
http://www.extreamsd.com/index.php/2015-07-22-12-01-14/usb-audio-driver
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Interesting ill have to check it out.. Let me know how you hook your up if you do this.
Something new about able to use some software?
Since the units also have a subwoofer out ?
Please delete
Did someone contact manufacturer and asked for an option to adjust sub separately?
Just buy a decent dsp and you'll be able to adjust all settings that you like. I'm happy they also provide the full range signal on all outputs, if necessary without any adjustments, leaving me to do the tuning myself.
HVB83 said:
Just buy a decent dsp and you'll be able to adjust all settings that you like. I'm happy they also provide the full range signal on all outputs, if necessary without any adjustments, leaving me to do the tuning myself.
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Got any suggestions?
Something like this: http://mosconi-system.it/product/gladen-dsp-4to6/ or this: https://www.minidsp.com/products/minidsp-in-a-box/c-dsp-6x8
Although I must admit I don't know the Minidsp myself. Between the two I would say Mosconi is the benchmark, costing a lot but delivering almost uncomprimised quality, whereas the Minidsp is the budget choice., but it seems to offer quite a lot value for money.
hans1983 said:
Something like this: http://mosconi-system.it/product/gladen-dsp-4to6/ or this: https://www.minidsp.com/products/minidsp-in-a-box/c-dsp-6x8
Although I must admit I don't know the Minidsp myself. Between the two I would say Mosconi is the benchmark, costing a lot but delivering almost uncomprimised quality, whereas the Minidsp is the budget choice., but it seems to offer quite a lot value for money.
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Very Very interesting. I've notice over time though that It seems these Head units take too long to start up. I haven't been liking the 5 minute wait for my HU to unfreeze. I may do a Windows Stick to Double Din Touch screen or something
5 minute wait? I know it was a little longer with the factory firmware, and some freezing after a cold boot was indeed observable, but with the Malasyk firmware I don't think a cold boot takes longer than 20 seconds and no freezing is observable after startup. I did notice however that it also depends on the skin that you're using, some of them do indeed cause some lag at startup and when switching apps.
Flat audio with Joying 5.1.1 2-din unit
My Joying unit had pretty flat audio compared to original unit in my car. Joying default equalizer somewhat works, but it starts from 60Hz and even if you crank it up to +15dB you are missing a lot from lower end.
So i installed Viper4Android and it works great! Gives you much more control over audio and fixed my issue.
It's pretty easy to install, you don't need any Kingroots or anything. Go to Settings -> Factory Settings -> Enter password *#hct#root# and after that you should be able to install Viper4Android.
I'm using Joying internal amplifier, i don't know how this works with low-level outputs. I also have latest stock ROM.
Concerning the equalizer: according to my audio measurement, the EQ is a 3-band equalizer with central frequencies of 80 Hz, 1250 Hz and 16 kHz. The adjustment possibility is +/- 12 dB for each band. The 60 Hz, 100 Hz and 200 Hz sliders adjust the 80 Hz-band, the 500 Hz, 1 kHz and 2.5 kHz sliders the 1250 Hz-band, the 10 kHz, 12.5 kHz and the 16 kHz sliders the 16 kHz-band. In order to get + or - 12 dB gain all 3 sliders controlling one band must be set to the maximum/minimum position.
hans1983 said:
5 minute wait? I know it was a little longer with the factory firmware, and some freezing after a cold boot was indeed observable, but with the Malasyk firmware I don't think a cold boot takes longer than 20 seconds and no freezing is observable after startup. I did notice however that it also depends on the skin that you're using, some of them do indeed cause some lag at startup and when switching apps.
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Click to collapse
I have the 2nd version. It boots in 20 seconds but the apps freeze and volume can't be controlled for a while
larppaxyz said:
My Joying unit had pretty flat audio compared to original unit in my car. Joying default equalizer somewhat works, but it starts from 60Hz and even if you crank it up to +15dB you are missing a lot from lower end.
So i installed Viper4Android and it works great! Gives you much more control over audio and fixed my issue.
It's pretty easy to install, you don't need any Kingroots or anything. Go to Settings -> Factory Settings -> Enter password *#hct#root# and after that you should be able to install Viper4Android.
I'm using Joying internal amplifier, i don't know how this works with low-level outputs. I also have latest stock ROM.
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I installed it to. It's Ok but don't have as much higher control like the headphones and Bluetooth settings. I have the crossover clearing up everything for the most part
valtam17 said:
Concerning the equalizer: according to my audio measurement, the EQ is a 3-band equalizer with central frequencies of 80 Hz, 1250 Hz and 16 kHz. The adjustment possibility is +/- 12 dB for each band. The 60 Hz, 100 Hz and 200 Hz sliders adjust the 80 Hz-band, the 500 Hz, 1 kHz and 2.5 kHz sliders the 1250 Hz-band, the 10 kHz, 12.5 kHz and the 16 kHz sliders the 16 kHz-band. In order to get + or - 12 dB gain all 3 sliders controlling one band must be set to the maximum/minimum position.
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Are you telling me that MTCD units also have this issue? I was thinking that it's problem with older MTCB units. I do have oscilloscope to do some measuring myself, but right now i don't have time for that. Do you thinkg same hardware mod would work for MTCD units too? Do you have measurements for amp output? I think it starts to fade out badly below <60Hz, maybe they used wrong components for filtering in actual preamp circuit.
Luckily Viper4Android is software solution...
Just an idea.
Wouldn't it be nice to have a DSP app in place of the standard Amplifier app, with possibility to use the internal 4 ch out as active crossover system with optional bi-amplification from the internal ampl?
Think of it
Case A: 2ch (front) with high pass for the tweeters and 2ch (rear) with low pass for the woofers + sub-woofer out. Saves the cost of an active crossover!
Case B: Direct speaker out for tweeters and woofers (front only) would do a great job since the internal amp is quite decent and could save us a lot of money. You only need a pair of woofers and tweeters, no crossover or amps! Just add an active sub if you need more punch

Will changing ROMs change my sound output?

So I have spent many hours with my aftermarket sound tuner (OEM Audio+) and they have gone to great lengths to tune the aftermarket amplifier to sound perfect with my Joying HU.
I am not sure what the factors are that will change the sound but will updating to a Malaysk rom (or updating in general) change the headunits internal EQ settings or are all MTCD roms typically the same?
For clarity, would flat EQ (on current ROM) vs flat EQ (on Malaysk ROM or updated Joying ROM) sound exactly the same?
I have the new Joying 5.1 Toyota (200mm x 100mm):
MTCD_JY_v1.63_1 (Jun 12 2016)
Also side question, does anyone know why Google maps mutes my music or how to fix it? =p
Thanks.
l0aded said:
So I have spent many hours with my aftermarket sound tuner (OEM Audio+) and they have gone to great lengths to tune the aftermarket amplifier to sound perfect with my Joying HU.
I am not sure what the factors are that will change the sound but will updating to a Malaysk rom (or updating in general) change the headunits internal EQ settings or are all MTCD roms typically the same?
For clarity, would flat EQ (on current ROM) vs flat EQ (on Malaysk ROM or updated Joying ROM) sound exactly the same?
I have the new Joying 5.1 Toyota (200mm x 100mm):
MTCD_JY_v1.63_1 (Jun 12 2016)
Also side question, does anyone know why Google maps mutes my music or how to fix it? =p
Thanks.
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Yes it would sound exactly the same

New head unit install has static noise

I have just installed an Erisen 7591-HA (PX5) into my 2010 Golf Gti and I am getting static and digital processing sounds through my speakers.
If I mute the head unit there is no static or other sounds.
The digital processing noise happens when playing music via usb and Spotify when selecting the next track.
This is my first Android head deck and I am really disappointed.
Sound is going through an Alpine PDX-F6 amp.
I have tried disconnecting the radio plug and removing the head unit from the dash but no change still has static and processing sounds.
Sound issues remain if the engine is off it makes no difference.
Static and digital sounds do not increase with volume, it remains the same no matter what volume it is at unless the head unit is muted.
Good quality RCA and speaker cable was used.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have the same issue with a Belsee unit I installed last week. Do you have a line-level filter in your harness? I have a theory that the line-level filter that's included in mine is unnecessary, as it's coming straight off where the RCA outs would normally be (and those are line level already, right?).
tonyarnold said:
I have the same issue with a Belsee unit I installed last week. Do you have a line-level filter in your harness? I have a theory that the line-level filter that's included in mine is unnecessary, as it's coming straight off where the RCA outs would normally be (and those are line level already, right?).
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No I do not have a line level filter on mine.
I have tried using an RCA GROUND LOOP ISOLATOR but this done nothing.
Below is a link to the sound I am getting from the head unit, you will see it only makes the sounds when volume is not muted.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vhT7AavZbg
Same issue on my PX5 KGL unit, not tested with filters or similar...
I read somewhere that the LED color-changing caused interference - and I noticed that you have yours setup that way. Have you tried setting a static color? Also, make sure all of your wiring is clean and try to keep any speaker wires away from any power wires (although that is more applicable to an external app setup).
Can you hear the noise at all while music is actually playing? Obviously, it would be better if it wasn't there are all, but if you can't hear it normally (only hear it when nothing is playing), then I wouldn't sweat it too much. All you can do is make sure that your wiring is clean and maybe try adjusting the LED settings and the "pre-amp" settings under the factory menu (maybe see if reducing the "System" setting under "Voice" helps reduce it). Once you try using things like ground-loop isolaters, etc, then there is a chance that the music fidelity is reduced even more.
jtrosky said:
I read somewhere that the LED color-changing caused interference - and I noticed that you have yours setup that way. Have you tried setting a static color? Also, make sure all of your wiring is clean and try to keep any speaker wires away from any power wires (although that is more applicable to an external app setup).
Can you hear the noise at all while music is actually playing? Obviously, it would be better if it wasn't there are all, but if you can't hear it normally (only hear it when nothing is playing), then I wouldn't sweat it too much. All you can do is make sure that your wiring is clean and maybe try adjusting the LED settings and the "pre-amp" settings under the factory menu (maybe see if reducing the "System" setting under "Voice" helps reduce it). Once you try using things like ground-loop isolaters, etc, then there is a chance that the music fidelity is reduced even more.
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Click to collapse
Yeah have tried all the above and nothing changes.
The sound quality is poor also with higher ranges being really scratchy.
I am sure the unit would be fine if not using a higher end amp and just running the speakers off the head unit, I have read a few posts online and on youtube that the RCA output signal can be really poor with certain brands.
I just sent the unit back today for a full refund and will now be buying a brand name such as Alpine, Pioneer etc etc

Question Joying Optical Questions

Using Optical from my Joying Android 10 unit.
Was curious about the "Power Conditioning" setting under Device - Sound - Amp
Is this basically a 'gain' setting and could this induce clipping through the Optical output?
It does increase overall volume when turning it up, so at what point does it clip, If at all?
requested to move to FYT forum
surfer63 said:
requested to move to FYT forum
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What is FYT?
Emg24538 said:
Using Optical from my Joying Android 10 unit.
Was curious about the "Power Conditioning" setting under Device - Sound - Amp
Is this basically a 'gain' setting and could this induce clipping through the Optical output?
It does increase overall volume when turning it up, so at what point does it clip, If at all?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On mine, the default is 50 out of a possible 60
On increasing it to 60, the sound quality was still good, but the resolution on the audio wasn't good. Volume level 1 was too loud for background and volume 0 was obviously still nothing.
Admiteddly, I'm running through a DSP and several amplifiers, so your effect might be lessened, but keeping the conditioning at 50/60 worked best for me
Emg24538 said:
What is FYT?
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There are a few real manufacturers of head units: FYT, Microntek, Topways, etc.
They deliver to resellers. For FYT those resellers are for example Medeke M300/M500/M600/K500/K600, NaviFly, Idoing, Joying, T'eyes, some Zhan units, Kingbeats, and probably a few others.
NaviFly and Medeke also sell cheaper units from other manufacturers.
jgaskell said:
On mine, the default is 50 out of a possible 60
On increasing it to 60, the sound quality was still good, but the resolution on the audio wasn't good. Volume level 1 was too loud for background and volume 0 was obviously still nothing.
Admiteddly, I'm running through a DSP and several amplifiers, so your effect might be lessened, but keeping the conditioning at 50/60 worked best for me
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Click to collapse
Thanks for the reply!
I found a reviewer on youtube:
He did distortion tests, and said the Joying starts to clip on Optical and analog about volume level 32, and he did his testing with the "power conditioner" at 60. (I posted question about this in his comments.)
Im with you, right now I dropped it down to 50, may even go 40. I too am using a DSP to amps, and my gains are way down and its still pretty loud at low volume levels. Sounds great though.
Not sure what you mean by "volume 1 was too loud for background"?
Sorry, I meant even at volume 1, the sound was too loud even for background music, it would still drown out a conversation in the car.
Emg24538 said:
Thanks for the reply!
I found a reviewer on youtube:
He did distortion tests, and said the Joying starts to clip on Optical and analog about volume level 32, and he did his testing with the "power conditioner" at 60. (I posted question about this in his comments.)
Im with you, right now I dropped it down to 50, may even go 40. I too am using a DSP to amps, and my gains are way down and its still pretty loud at low volume levels. Sounds great though.
Not sure what you mean by "volume 1 was too loud for background"?
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I have the same unit and found no clipping at full volume on the RCAs at stock settings. This guy also tested one of the new Joying units and found the same thing, no cliping at max volume on the RCAs. He gets to the testing around 28:30
madmatt2024 said:
I have the same unit and found no clipping at full volume on the RCAs at stock settings. This guy also tested one of the new Joying units and found the same thing, no cliping at max volume on the RCAs. He gets to the testing around 28:30
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Click to collapse
Thanks, I remember watching this video! Although he doesn't mention specifically the optical output.
But this has me curious:
Being digital, I didnt think Optical itself could induce clipping unless the data itself already had clipping in it?
So, for the headunit to control volume over Optical, I wonder...is the headunit converting digital data to analog first (DAC) then processed through its internal amplifier, to then be converted back to digital (ADC) to output through Optical? Is this how its controlling volume I wonder?
I really wish I understood how it all worked.
As far as I know, the optical output will only show clipping if the source material was recorded such that it was clipped.
The digital signal comes from the source, goes through the Android audio layer (up or down sampled, as necessary to 48Khz) and then is transformed to the correct SPDIF format (coax or optical).
In the second video (New Release Alert...) - they are just measuring the RCA outputs (so after the internal DAC), the optical/coax output is not tested.
Digital volume control is handled differently - ideally you should leave the Joying volume maxed out and control the volume downstream (i.e., through your external DSP). The Joying volume control degrades the digital signal (to degree to which it is audible is a different question) and the only way around that is to keep the Joying at full volume.

Reassign android headunit outputs?

I have a Dasaita PX6 Android 10 headunit. When my sub is plugged into the sub output, there is a constant popopopop even with music playing, and it generally sounds like sh*t. This issue does not exist when the sub is plugged into the rear outputs, or when I use the line outputs with a loc, however the on screen sub level control becomes useless. Is it possible to make the sub level control the rear or line outputs instead? If so, where would I find/how would I access the code I need to change?

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