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Headphone amplifier app

Every couple months i pointlessly ask this question.
Is anyone aware of an app that can adjust the headphone amplifier levels?
I need the headphone amp to have REDUCED volume to eliminate static noise when listening to quiet music at night.
Voodoo sound does this perfectly, but only works on samsung phones.
Thanks in advance, even though lets face it it doesn't exist.

stonew5082 said:
Every couple months i pointlessly ask this question.
Is anyone aware of an app that can adjust the headphone amplifier levels?
I need the headphone amp to have REDUCED volume to eliminate static noise when listening to quiet music at night.
Voodoo sound does this perfectly, but only works on samsung phones.
Thanks in advance, even though lets face it it doesn't exist.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What exactly is causing this static noise??
DSP manager should be what you are looking for. Set the equalizer in the headphone settings to "custom" then reduce the levels across all the bands. If it is high pitched static you may just want to reduce the high frequencies
EDIT: Search the forums for "Dsp manager" to find the download link. Id post it but cant...

thornhill523 said:
What exactly is causing this static noise??
DSP manager should be what you are looking for. Set the equalizer in the headphone settings to "custom" then reduce the levels across all the bands. If it is high pitched static you may just want to reduce the high frequencies
EDIT: Search the forums for "Dsp manager" to find the download link. Id post it but cant...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I appreciate your reponse but its not a solution. If you listen to quiet music at night like classical music, you will hear a static. Its a cheap headphone amp in the phone. Think about a guitar amp turned up too loud. You would hear the amp clearly when the guitar isn't playing. Some phones are worse than others in this regard. Turning the headphone amp down and the media volume UP reduces static noise and allows the media volume to be high.
Turning the eq down may help but at the cost of good sound quality. I have tried it.

And finally, here is the answer. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.teamkang.fauxsound

I had the same problem to with white noise static coming in my low impedance in ear phones.
I edited these 2 files and lowered the gain to 48 for headset. I think by default its on 55.
They are in /system/etc
Files
TPA2051_CFG.csv
TPA2051_CFG_XC.csv
Edit and reboot. Make copies before edit just in case.
Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G using Tapatalk 2

[Q] What is going on with ICS media volume steps?

I'm on Kangy8 and I don't know if this issue is related to all ICS roms.
So when I adjust the media volume while listening to music I basically get this more or less:
- |..|..|..|..|..|..|......|.........| +
where some of the steps seem to be mapped to more than one volume level.
What the ... I don't even get it.
I want something like this:
- |..|..|..|..|..|..|..|..|..|..|..| +
I also don't understand the Voodoo Control Plus audio settings.
Current amplifier is a negative number. Why? So what I understand is, that it's amplifying the current volume?
I saw that CodenameAndroid comes with a 30 step volume addon but as far as I know this will conflict with voodoo sound.

I don't have that volume issue in the stock ROM on my i9023, possibly a kangy bug.
The amplifier level is simple and useful once you understand it. I'll give you some background first and some general numbers.
dB (decibel) is a unit, in an audio sense, which measures the pressure of sound waves. It is a logarithmic scale and requires a reference level to compare to. Basics with audio decibel values:
1dB : Threshold of noticing a volume change
3dB : A little louder
6dB : Double the sound pressure
10dB : We perceive sound approximately twice as loud
Now that's out of the way; the analog control tells the amplifier inside the phone how much it should amplify the sound. Using 0dB as a reference, which is generally the loudest it goes safely, how much less (in dB) would you like it to amplify. If you want it to halve the perceived volume, you'll drop it down to -10dB (effectively half as loud as full blast). The reason why you would want to do this is generally if there is excessive noise generated by the amp, lowering the amplifying power and raising the software volume will give you the same volume and power, but lower additional noise as the amp is working below it's limit. Higher quality DACs of course can reach their max amp capabilities and add no noticeable noise to the earphones/speakers, of course.
Hope that made sense

Android Head Units Sound Control Software

Question about the software on these things. Do they have control for Crossovers for the Front, Rear and Sub? Does the EQ settings stick to the Front, Rear and Sub? Is anyone able to tap into the sound control through a app or something like that?

lowridincrew said:
Question about the software on these things. Do they have control for Crossovers for the Front, Rear and Sub? Does the EQ settings stick to the Front, Rear and Sub? Is anyone able to tap into the sound control through a app or something like that?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They have a nice EQ but no crossover setting. You also cant control the sub out put its on at full out put all the time. Had to put in a bass knob to fix that.

Going deeper than the built in audio and I found out some professional audio cards also work and Creative brand hardware. Check this out
http://www.extreamsd.com/index.php/2015-07-22-12-01-14/usb-audio-driver

lowridincrew said:
Going deeper than the built in audio and I found out some professional audio cards also work and Creative brand hardware. Check this out
http://www.extreamsd.com/index.php/2015-07-22-12-01-14/usb-audio-driver
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting ill have to check it out.. Let me know how you hook your up if you do this.

Something new about able to use some software?
Since the units also have a subwoofer out ?

Please delete

Did someone contact manufacturer and asked for an option to adjust sub separately?

Just buy a decent dsp and you'll be able to adjust all settings that you like. I'm happy they also provide the full range signal on all outputs, if necessary without any adjustments, leaving me to do the tuning myself.

HVB83 said:
Just buy a decent dsp and you'll be able to adjust all settings that you like. I'm happy they also provide the full range signal on all outputs, if necessary without any adjustments, leaving me to do the tuning myself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Got any suggestions?

Something like this: http://mosconi-system.it/product/gladen-dsp-4to6/ or this: https://www.minidsp.com/products/minidsp-in-a-box/c-dsp-6x8
Although I must admit I don't know the Minidsp myself. Between the two I would say Mosconi is the benchmark, costing a lot but delivering almost uncomprimised quality, whereas the Minidsp is the budget choice., but it seems to offer quite a lot value for money.

hans1983 said:
Something like this: http://mosconi-system.it/product/gladen-dsp-4to6/ or this: https://www.minidsp.com/products/minidsp-in-a-box/c-dsp-6x8
Although I must admit I don't know the Minidsp myself. Between the two I would say Mosconi is the benchmark, costing a lot but delivering almost uncomprimised quality, whereas the Minidsp is the budget choice., but it seems to offer quite a lot value for money.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Very Very interesting. I've notice over time though that It seems these Head units take too long to start up. I haven't been liking the 5 minute wait for my HU to unfreeze. I may do a Windows Stick to Double Din Touch screen or something

5 minute wait? I know it was a little longer with the factory firmware, and some freezing after a cold boot was indeed observable, but with the Malasyk firmware I don't think a cold boot takes longer than 20 seconds and no freezing is observable after startup. I did notice however that it also depends on the skin that you're using, some of them do indeed cause some lag at startup and when switching apps.

Flat audio with Joying 5.1.1 2-din unit
My Joying unit had pretty flat audio compared to original unit in my car. Joying default equalizer somewhat works, but it starts from 60Hz and even if you crank it up to +15dB you are missing a lot from lower end.
So i installed Viper4Android and it works great! Gives you much more control over audio and fixed my issue.
It's pretty easy to install, you don't need any Kingroots or anything. Go to Settings -> Factory Settings -> Enter password *#hct#root# and after that you should be able to install Viper4Android.
I'm using Joying internal amplifier, i don't know how this works with low-level outputs. I also have latest stock ROM.

Concerning the equalizer: according to my audio measurement, the EQ is a 3-band equalizer with central frequencies of 80 Hz, 1250 Hz and 16 kHz. The adjustment possibility is +/- 12 dB for each band. The 60 Hz, 100 Hz and 200 Hz sliders adjust the 80 Hz-band, the 500 Hz, 1 kHz and 2.5 kHz sliders the 1250 Hz-band, the 10 kHz, 12.5 kHz and the 16 kHz sliders the 16 kHz-band. In order to get + or - 12 dB gain all 3 sliders controlling one band must be set to the maximum/minimum position.

hans1983 said:
5 minute wait? I know it was a little longer with the factory firmware, and some freezing after a cold boot was indeed observable, but with the Malasyk firmware I don't think a cold boot takes longer than 20 seconds and no freezing is observable after startup. I did notice however that it also depends on the skin that you're using, some of them do indeed cause some lag at startup and when switching apps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the 2nd version. It boots in 20 seconds but the apps freeze and volume can't be controlled for a while
larppaxyz said:
My Joying unit had pretty flat audio compared to original unit in my car. Joying default equalizer somewhat works, but it starts from 60Hz and even if you crank it up to +15dB you are missing a lot from lower end.
So i installed Viper4Android and it works great! Gives you much more control over audio and fixed my issue.
It's pretty easy to install, you don't need any Kingroots or anything. Go to Settings -> Factory Settings -> Enter password *#hct#root# and after that you should be able to install Viper4Android.
I'm using Joying internal amplifier, i don't know how this works with low-level outputs. I also have latest stock ROM.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I installed it to. It's Ok but don't have as much higher control like the headphones and Bluetooth settings. I have the crossover clearing up everything for the most part

valtam17 said:
Concerning the equalizer: according to my audio measurement, the EQ is a 3-band equalizer with central frequencies of 80 Hz, 1250 Hz and 16 kHz. The adjustment possibility is +/- 12 dB for each band. The 60 Hz, 100 Hz and 200 Hz sliders adjust the 80 Hz-band, the 500 Hz, 1 kHz and 2.5 kHz sliders the 1250 Hz-band, the 10 kHz, 12.5 kHz and the 16 kHz sliders the 16 kHz-band. In order to get + or - 12 dB gain all 3 sliders controlling one band must be set to the maximum/minimum position.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you telling me that MTCD units also have this issue? I was thinking that it's problem with older MTCB units. I do have oscilloscope to do some measuring myself, but right now i don't have time for that. Do you thinkg same hardware mod would work for MTCD units too? Do you have measurements for amp output? I think it starts to fade out badly below <60Hz, maybe they used wrong components for filtering in actual preamp circuit.
Luckily Viper4Android is software solution...

Just an idea.
Wouldn't it be nice to have a DSP app in place of the standard Amplifier app, with possibility to use the internal 4 ch out as active crossover system with optional bi-amplification from the internal ampl?
Think of it
Case A: 2ch (front) with high pass for the tweeters and 2ch (rear) with low pass for the woofers + sub-woofer out. Saves the cost of an active crossover!
Case B: Direct speaker out for tweeters and woofers (front only) would do a great job since the internal amp is quite decent and could save us a lot of money. You only need a pair of woofers and tweeters, no crossover or amps! Just add an active sub if you need more punch

Px5 Static Noise From Speakers (Sourced from LCD Screen!)

I have a MTCD/MTCE head unit from Witson(MX) and i'm using the latest Malaysk rom and Mcu(1.75) for my unit.
I can hear a low pitched static noise from speakers when car is silent. It's not loud, but i can hear it. I just realised source of this static is LCD screen. If I decrease brightness of LCD or completely shutdown LCD the static noise came from speaker stops. The sound is even changing with respect to colors on LCD.
My question is: I don't want to return my unit. Can someone with technical knowledge say me how can i solve this problem? Should i install some kind of filter on speaker cables? Should i ground case of the unit or Lcd?

I have the same noise, I didn’t do anything about it because I never have a situation without listening to something. When I drive it’s impossible to hear it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Interesting. I have the same noise but haven’t figured out what causes it. I’ll check your LCD theory tomorrow.

a) I have PCB mounted quadlock (VW) on rear of HU
b) i have factory fitted amp in skoda superb ii (VW quadlock - not RCAs used)
c) with aftermarket HU, the amp is turned on when the key is in ignition position and not controlled by canbus like with original
** this is have a very faint hiss from the unbalanced line input being on without a source, but is not the noise we are referring to here **
d) noise is not present if i put back Chinese WinCE HU or original RNS315
e) there is no noise during initial boot screen, or car logo or even during loading of Car Loader AG (inc with HA rom) from cold boot
f) shortly after the Loader screen, the +/- volume keys become active - this is when the noise starts (motor running or not - the noise is the same)
g) if you put the car in reverse prior to turning on, you see white lines about 1cm apart before the vol +/- is activated.
h) once the volume is activated, the noise includes a clicking of about 150-180 bpm (the white lines on the reverse camera flicker to this beat as well)
i) using factory settings/touch keys to config pwr key for short press screen off / long press pwr off and the screen off does not affect noise.
j) changing the factory settings/other/amp gain from 0 to -12db or -15db lowers the noise gain but requires increase volume to overcome the noise.
k) the noise varies and fluctuates with changes in the menu e.g. scrolling and display e.g. download % counter changes
l) the noise varies and fluctuates with touches to the touch screen
m) the noise does not change in amplitude with changes to the system volume control
I have seen a thread where it is suggested, that the interference is coming from the LCD screen and can be verified by turning the screen off - see g) above
** the other thing i am suspicious about is the grounding. I am connected through Quadlock, but trying to power via the Quadlock on a bench doesn't work. Only via
the white connector with the RCAs. says to me something funny going on with either the power or ground wiring. **
Based on all the above, it seems fairly clear that the issue is either the LCD/CPU or some other RF component inducing the noise into the system. i.e. design fault.
I don't have an oscilloscope so can't probe if the noise is on the LCD cables or being induced by the screen RFI without shielding.
Simple test might be to remove the front screen (while still plugged in) and extend the cable moving the screen as far as possible, possible place a metal sheet behind the screen and in front of the unit, to see if the noise changes.. That would at least tell if it is a shielding problem with the screen.
i am surprised there is no solution to this so far, as it is commonly reported among various brands of the PX5 Android boxes.
I am going away, so wont be able to look at this for a few weeks, but would like to hear from anybody who is game to try removing the screen from the case initially.

gwaitsi said:
a) I have PCB mounted quadlock (VW) on rear of HU
b) i have factory fitted amp in skoda superb ii (VW quadlock - not RCAs used)
c) with aftermarket HU, the amp is turned on when the key is in ignition position and not controlled by canbus like with original
** this is have a very faint hiss from the unbalanced line input being on without a source, but is not the noise we are referring to here **
d) noise is not present if i put back Chinese WinCE HU or original RNS315
e) there is no noise during initial boot screen, or car logo or even during loading of Car Loader AG (inc with HA rom) from cold boot
f) shortly after the Loader screen, the +/- volume keys become active - this is when the noise starts (motor running or not - the noise is the same)
g) if you put the car in reverse prior to turning on, you see white lines about 1cm apart before the vol +/- is activated.
h) once the volume is activated, the noise includes a clicking of about 150-180 bpm (the white lines on the reverse camera flicker to this beat as well)
i) using factory settings/touch keys to config pwr key for short press screen off / long press pwr off and the screen off does not affect noise.
j) changing the factory settings/other/amp gain from 0 to -12db or -15db lowers the noise gain but requires increase volume to overcome the noise.
k) the noise varies and fluctuates with changes in the menu e.g. scrolling and display e.g. download % counter changes
l) the noise varies and fluctuates with touches to the touch screen
m) the noise does not change in amplitude with changes to the system volume control
I have seen a thread where it is suggested, that the interference is coming from the LCD screen and can be verified by turning the screen off - see g) above
** the other thing i am suspicious about is the grounding. I am connected through Quadlock, but trying to power via the Quadlock on a bench doesn't work. Only via
the white connector with the RCAs. says to me something funny going on with either the power or ground wiring. **
Based on all the above, it seems fairly clear that the issue is either the LCD/CPU or some other RF component inducing the noise into the system. i.e. design fault.
I don't have an oscilloscope so can't probe if the noise is on the LCD cables or being induced by the screen RFI without shielding.
Simple test might be to remove the front screen (while still plugged in) and extend the cable moving the screen as far as possible, possible place a metal sheet behind the screen and in front of the unit, to see if the noise changes.. That would at least tell if it is a shielding problem with the screen.
i am surprised there is no solution to this so far, as it is commonly reported among various brands of the PX5 Android boxes.
I am going away, so wont be able to look at this for a few weeks, but would like to hear from anybody who is game to try removing the screen from the case initially.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not the LCD, at least on my unit. The noise is much higher if I connect a flash memory to one of the USB connectors. I can hear the noise as Android is reading the memory content. I think the noise from the digital domain is getting to the analog path somehow. Would be interesting to install some power filters for the analog part or play with the grounding. May do it later if I can find some free time... I do have an oscilloscope but I don't have the time for the research yet...

G0bl1n said:
It's not the LCD, at least on my unit. The noise is much higher if I connect a flash memory to one of the USB connectors. I can hear the noise as Android is reading the memory content. I think the noise from the digital domain is getting to the analog path somehow. Would be interesting to install some power filters for the analog part or play with the grounding. May do it later if I can find some free time... I do have an oscilloscope but I don't have the time for the research yet...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I found it easier to track down with a signal tracer, i.e. a probe connected to an audio amp and headphones.

xdamember2 said:
I found it easier to track down with a signal tracer, i.e. a probe connected to an audio amp and headphones.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I removed the main board from my unit. Bottom layer on the PCB is filled with a ground plane but has many connections cutting through it. I'm wondering if they have a dedicated ground plane as a middle layer. If they don't it's possible there are ground loops which can cause the noice. I will try to add some wires to improve the grounding. Will update when I have any info.

i can hear static too but from my little speaker that produces the parking sensors and indicators sounds.. when the unit seems to be processing i can also hear some. Let us know later @G0bl1n.

Hello, I have the noise when the car radio is connected to wifi or bluetooth

Guys...check your Wifi angena on the back....it makes this annoying noise. Change wifi antenat to external on the cable.....it fixes issue 100%

BoNt3k said:
Guys...check your Wifi angena on the back....it makes this annoying noise. Change wifi antenat to external on the cable.....it fixes issue 100%
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can someone else confirm this solution please? It's very difficult to dissamble the head unit from my car.

traxformania said:
Can someone else confirm this solution please? It's very difficult to dissamble the head unit from my car.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you find any solution? I have the same problem

Any updates on this? I'm experiencing the same issue when the LCD screen is bring used... Eben noting a significant difference between noise when a live wallpaper vs a plain wallpaper is being used. Would in line magnets in the power and ground source help? Any progress? This is really frustrating

Jonnymooshoo said:
Any updates on this? I'm experiencing the same issue when the LCD screen is bring used... Eben noting a significant difference between noise when a live wallpaper vs a plain wallpaper is being used. Would in line magnets in the power and ground source help? Any progress? This is really frustrating
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure if it's the screen itself or the electronics on the board controlling the screen. If I ever get more time on my hands what I would love to do is try extending the ribbon cable on the screen so I could remove it away from the unit and see what that does for noise. If it works then you could always dash mount the screen and stick the unit under your seat... or what ever. Haven't had the time though.
Anyway, there have been a lot of threads and posts on noise with people trying all sorts of stuff to stop it and I haven't seen a foolproof method yet.
One thing which seems to work for those using external amps is to use the speaker level outs and convert down as opposed to using the rca outs. Another thing which seems to work is to adjust the gain on the external amp down until the noise is no longer heard. You do obviously lose a bit of volume headroom though.

New head unit install has static noise

I have just installed an Erisen 7591-HA (PX5) into my 2010 Golf Gti and I am getting static and digital processing sounds through my speakers.
If I mute the head unit there is no static or other sounds.
The digital processing noise happens when playing music via usb and Spotify when selecting the next track.
This is my first Android head deck and I am really disappointed.
Sound is going through an Alpine PDX-F6 amp.
I have tried disconnecting the radio plug and removing the head unit from the dash but no change still has static and processing sounds.
Sound issues remain if the engine is off it makes no difference.
Static and digital sounds do not increase with volume, it remains the same no matter what volume it is at unless the head unit is muted.
Good quality RCA and speaker cable was used.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I have the same issue with a Belsee unit I installed last week. Do you have a line-level filter in your harness? I have a theory that the line-level filter that's included in mine is unnecessary, as it's coming straight off where the RCA outs would normally be (and those are line level already, right?).

tonyarnold said:
I have the same issue with a Belsee unit I installed last week. Do you have a line-level filter in your harness? I have a theory that the line-level filter that's included in mine is unnecessary, as it's coming straight off where the RCA outs would normally be (and those are line level already, right?).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No I do not have a line level filter on mine.
I have tried using an RCA GROUND LOOP ISOLATOR but this done nothing.
Below is a link to the sound I am getting from the head unit, you will see it only makes the sounds when volume is not muted.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vhT7AavZbg

Same issue on my PX5 KGL unit, not tested with filters or similar...

I read somewhere that the LED color-changing caused interference - and I noticed that you have yours setup that way. Have you tried setting a static color? Also, make sure all of your wiring is clean and try to keep any speaker wires away from any power wires (although that is more applicable to an external app setup).
Can you hear the noise at all while music is actually playing? Obviously, it would be better if it wasn't there are all, but if you can't hear it normally (only hear it when nothing is playing), then I wouldn't sweat it too much. All you can do is make sure that your wiring is clean and maybe try adjusting the LED settings and the "pre-amp" settings under the factory menu (maybe see if reducing the "System" setting under "Voice" helps reduce it). Once you try using things like ground-loop isolaters, etc, then there is a chance that the music fidelity is reduced even more.

jtrosky said:
I read somewhere that the LED color-changing caused interference - and I noticed that you have yours setup that way. Have you tried setting a static color? Also, make sure all of your wiring is clean and try to keep any speaker wires away from any power wires (although that is more applicable to an external app setup).
Can you hear the noise at all while music is actually playing? Obviously, it would be better if it wasn't there are all, but if you can't hear it normally (only hear it when nothing is playing), then I wouldn't sweat it too much. All you can do is make sure that your wiring is clean and maybe try adjusting the LED settings and the "pre-amp" settings under the factory menu (maybe see if reducing the "System" setting under "Voice" helps reduce it). Once you try using things like ground-loop isolaters, etc, then there is a chance that the music fidelity is reduced even more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah have tried all the above and nothing changes.
The sound quality is poor also with higher ranges being really scratchy.
I am sure the unit would be fine if not using a higher end amp and just running the speakers off the head unit, I have read a few posts online and on youtube that the RCA output signal can be really poor with certain brands.
I just sent the unit back today for a full refund and will now be buying a brand name such as Alpine, Pioneer etc etc