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Having an issue with the Android Auto unit in my '18 Subaru Crosstrek. Android Auto typically starts fine, but it keeps freezing five minutes or so into playing music. The track skips to the next track and the display just freezes.
Do not have the same issue on my Nexus 6P running Oreo. Boost is not optimizing Android Auto as well.
Any ideas? This is the US Unlocked version running the latest (so out of date) ROM.
I had the same problem with my mondeo/contour and an aftermarket head unit. The head unit didn't have the appropriate space behind it and the structural brace behind the dashboard was blocking the fan and causing the unit to overheat. I was prepared to cut into the brace but Ford advised against it.
Another issue you may encounter is optimization of the app may be closing it as it might be seen as idling instead of running. Do not optimise or greenify the app in any way.
Some music files may not be compatible. Only certain containers work. Some files, although labelled the same type of file, may actually have a different container than the one the head unit is programmed to decode. This will cause the head unit to skip the file(s) until a readable file is found.
If the head unit in the car is an aftermarket unit it may have a fault or be overheating. It is not unheard of as it happened to me and I still had to pay for removal of the unit even though they knew it was a problem before I bought it.
Beamed in by telepathy
shivadow said:
I had the same problem with my mondeo/contour and an aftermarket head unit. The head unit didn't have the appropriate space behind it and the structural brace behind the dashboard was blocking the fan and causing the unit to overheat. I was prepared to cut into the brace but Ford advised against it.
Another issue you may encounter is optimization of the app may be closing it as it might be seen as idling instead of running. Do not optimise or greenify the app in any way.
Some music files may not be compatible. Only certain containers work. Some files, although labelled the same type of file, may actually have a different container than the one the head unit is programmed to decode. This will cause the head unit to skip the file(s) until a readable file is found.
If the head unit in the car is an aftermarket unit it may have a fault or be overheating. It is not unheard of as it happened to me and I still had to pay for removal of the unit even though they knew it was a problem before I bought it.
Beamed in by telepathy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's the stock Subaru head unit. Only using Google Play Music with subscription streaming.
I thought Boost might be the problem, but it's not touching Android Auto. I might try completely disabling it system wide.
See if there is an update for the head unit. It appears that you are not the only one to suffer this issue!.
Beamed in by telepathy
shivadow said:
See if there is an update for the head unit. It appears that you are not the only one to suffer this issue!.
Beamed in by telepathy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's quite frustrating. Zero problems whatsoever on my Nexus 6P. Almost wonder if my HTC has a problem with the port.
Same issue as OP
I have the exact same issue with my HTC U11 and Sony head unit with Android auto. Also works perfectly with my Nexus. Did you find a fix?
AMGNZ said:
I have the exact same issue with my HTC U11 and Sony head unit with Android auto. Also works perfectly with my Nexus. Did you find a fix?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have not, but I haven't been using my U11 because of blueborne. I'm heading on a mini vacation tomorrow to the wilderness... Might test it out again then since I don't think someone will hack my phone in the woods lol.
Are you on the latest OTA? Haven't tried it again since they released the August security update since I'm holding out for September.
Screen freezes after 2 minutes without update
I have something similair. My screen freezes when the screen isn't updated for a minute or two. I found a reddit with the same problem, not able to post it yet
I doesn't freeze while playing music, because the screen updates, if only minimal, ie the progress bar.
I have a Nissan Leaf with support for android Auto. Cable is original one and tried others too. I have a HTC U11 and I am running version 3.2.5815 (latest)
Same issue as posted above
I suffered the same issue with Android auto, I also have a Son head unit in a 2017 ford. It froze on me as I was navigating and listening to play music.
Only fix I found was to uninstall the current version of Android auto, I found the prior version to the one that gave me issues. The prior version did not give me any issues.
I'm having the same problem and I am also using an HTC U11. I've got the Sony XAV-AX100 head unit. It only seems to happen if there is no movement on the screen for a couple of minutes.
Svenvdmeer said:
I'm having the same problem and I am also using an HTC U11. I've got the Sony XAV-AX100 head unit. It only seems to happen if there is no movement on the screen for a couple of minutes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same config and the same issue
I have a fairly new Android Auto headunit (Kenwood DDX9903s) running the latest firmware available that was released in August. I've been running this headunit with my Pixel 2 for almost a year and it works perfectly. Now I've moved over to a Pixel 3 and it refuses to work. My connection sequence is proper because it connects successfully every single time, launches AA, and makes it to the home screen. Sometimes it will even play 30 seconds of music too but then it will freeze and all playback or navigation stops entirely. It should be noted that I'm not having this issue on the stock headunit in my VW Golf R with Android Auto.
I want to be very clear, the headunit is still fine. If I hit the menu button it will take me to the root menu of the headunit where I can select other playback sources including radio. It is Android Auto that freezes and completely locks up. Only way to get out of that is to unplug it.
I've tried clearing cache/storage on the Android Auto app and also forgetting the device in the Bluetooth settings but nothing seems to help.
AA has been a mess for a few months. When I still had my Pixel 2 XL would crash or freeze every few minutes while driving and using Maps + Navigation. It got a little better after a few app updates more recently, but still crashed out on my occasionally. The P3XL is doing same/similar, but seems more related to the memory management issues.
I only have one head unit to test on (stock Chevy MyLink) so I can't see if it happens on other units or not..
fury683 said:
I only have one head unit to test on (stock Chevy MyLink) so I can't see if it happens on other units or not..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's what I find interesting. My stock unit in my VW Golf R seems to be fine with it. However, the aftermarket Kenwood is a bit pickier I suppose. And again, the Pixel2 operated flawlessly. Even on Android Pie. The only difference is the phone.
On my 2016 VW GTI Android auto seems to be a bit buggy with this device. It worked fairly well with my Samsung Galaxy S8. Usually the audio from the radio will duck (become quiet) when Google maps is giving directions to turn or something but now the audio for my radio seems to be ducked even when there are no voice prompts. Annoying.
Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
bigdave79 said:
On my 2016 VW GTI Android auto seems to be a bit buggy with this device. It worked fairly well with my Samsung Galaxy S8. Usually the audio from the radio will duck (become quiet) when Google maps is giving directions to turn or something but now the audio for my radio seems to be ducked even when there are no voice prompts. Annoying.
Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good call. I actually have that same problem on the Golf too. It's like the audio ducks and then sticks that way. Only way I've found to fix that is to unplug and then plug it back in.
italynstylion said:
Good call. I actually have that same problem on the Golf too. It's like the audio ducks and then sticks that way. Only way I've found to fix that is to unplug and then plug it back in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've had various audio ducking issues in the past, but it's pretty rare. Mine is usually more like I trigger Assistant and audio doesn't duck, so they're both really loud.
I've just go a Pixel 3 and tried to connect to my Audi (A4 B9) but had the same issue. It connects for a bit then just stops working. It loses its connection to the car. My Pixel 2 works without problems.
Charles
Just a quick chime in, not one issue yet, AA on a 2017 Chevy Volt with my pixel 3 standard. Had lots of issues with my previous s7 edge.
I'm having a issue too. I'm thinking it's got to do with the amp output on the head unit. I have a pioneer and it's got a 5v 1.5amp output.
Here is what is happening to it
You might have a point. My phone didn't charge when plugged in to my Audi.
That's worrying. I hope it's not a Pixel 3 hardware issue.
howdey57 said:
You might have a point. My phone didn't charge when plugged in to my Audi.
That's worrying. I hope it's not a Pixel 3 hardware issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I hope not too but I think I'm on to something. I noticed the power output on the Phone charger plug says 5v 3a
and 9v 2a so it's above my current head unit which is 1.5amp
My wife has a Renault and my phone works fine in her car so I'm thinking she has dual power output and all the people not having issues have either dual power output or there is at 2amp and above.
---------- Post added at 10:35 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:25 AM ----------
I am going to do some more searching into this error. Im concerned it is a hardware error but it's still to early too say as I want to look into other devices like the pixel 2 and Samsung s8/9 which I have friends with those devices. They all support fast charging and want to see what there charging specs are. I have read previous comments people didn't have the issue with there pixel 2 so when I get a chance I will test if one works with my car and I will check with a multimeter what my USB port is actually outputting.
If anyone has charging specs for those devices could you please post them.
Thanks
We are not alone.
https://support.google.com/androidauto/forum/AAAA6SY52nIPWBrDUXzR4o/?hl=en
Deleted post
I have Kenwood DNX995S and my Pixel 3 connects fine and functions as it should. And actually that was one of the reasons I switched to Pixel 3 from S9+. Wireless Android Auto is awesome.
Updated to November security patch, it take a bit longer before AA close but it still close.
I've got the impression it is when I have maps and music running, just like if it can handle many apps at the same time
Hi all,
I just installed a px5 unit from witson in my seat Leon. Most settings seem to be present, but I do not see the calibrate tires setting. Now I cannot get the message gone in my display behind steering wheel telling me that one tire is missing pressure. Which was indeed the case, especially after cracking on the highway, but anyhow, it's replaced now, so I need to be able to calibrate.
Anyone know? It's not in the tire section....
Thx
Hmmm, no one? Hard to believe I am one of the few or only one who has a car from Volkswagen, Seat, Skoda etc with such a calibration system and an after market px5 android car radio...
EDIT: Never mind, I've got it. I looked for it in the Tire section, but since I wasn't familiar with the term TPMS I did not look for it under that menu option
TomTom1981 said:
Hmmm, no one? Hard to believe I am one of the few or only one who has a car from Volkswagen, Seat, Skoda etc with such a calibration system and an after market px5 android car radio...
EDIT: Never mind, I've got it. I looked for it in the Tire section, but since I wasn't familiar with the term TPMS I did not look for it under that menu option
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is under Vehicule app. Scroll down and you will see TPMS, just press ok and it will calibrate the tires.
I also have a SEAT Leon and a MTCE from Witson seller.
Regards
Hi,
Anybody have MTCE head unit installed in Honda Accord VII? Which "MTCE Version"?
Many users have problem with rear window defogger (defroster, heater) at least with MTCE_KLD .
Can anybody confirm there are no problems with their head unit?
Green LED state
maxbfg said:
Hi,
Anybody have MTCE head unit installed in Honda Accord VII? Which "MTCE Version"?
Many users have problem with rear window defogger (defroster, heater) at least with MTCE_KLD .
Can anybody confirm there are no problems with their head unit?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The green LED in the center of the button changes its states or not ? That is to say, the issue is only related to the defroster or also related to the LED state ?
I have an MTCE unit in my CL9. All climate control things work fine.
MTCE_HF_V3.07_1
brettf said:
I have an MTCE unit in my CL9. All climate control things work fine.
MTCE_HF_V3.07_1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1. What is the minimum temperature setpoint? In my head unit it is 19° C
2. Does outside temperature on the odometer shows 28° C all the time ?
3. The air conditioning system works much worse than the original Japanese in AUTO mode. In winter, at 21 ° C, the Japanese control opens the flaps fully and closes them slowly, as the engine warms up (the hot air blow from the beginning), the Chinese head unit does not blow at all for some time after the start (waiting for heating up the engine, but it is only a time delay), as a result, after a time delay it begins to blow with a cold air assuming that the engine is already warm. In other words, the Chinese radio in the winter sets the flaps to some opening degree only on the basis of difference between the temperature inside of the car and the demand temperature, independent of the temperature of the engine cooling liquid. In summer, the air conditioning in AUTO mode blows all the time on the feet, on the Japanese head unit it blows to the feet and face. Does it work similar with yours Seicane?
maxbfg said:
1. What is the minimum temperature setpoint? In my head unit it is 19° C
2. Does outside temperature on the odometer shows 28° C all the time ?
3. The air conditioning system works much worse than the original Japanese in AUTO mode. In winter, at 21 ° C, the Japanese control opens the flaps fully and closes them slowly, as the engine warms up (the hot air blow from the beginning), the Chinese head unit does not blow at all for some time after the start (waiting for heating up the engine, but it is only a time delay), as a result, after a time delay it begins to blow with a cold air assuming that the engine is already warm. In other words, the Chinese radio in the winter sets the flaps to some opening degree only on the basis of difference between the temperature inside of the car and the demand temperature, independent of the temperature of the engine cooling liquid. In summer, the air conditioning in AUTO mode blows all the time on the feet, on the Japanese head unit it blows to the feet and face. Does it work similar with yours Seicane?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, so after using it for some time I have noticed a couple things.
1. Minimum Temp is "LO" which is 1 below 19 C. (Which was the same as my stock radio)
2. Outside Temp on my Odometer no longer shows AT ALL. It shows correctly on the MTCE display though.
3. I haven't tested all those scenarios, but I have tested the heater in winter, and it takes very long to get up to temperature even though the car is already warm. Previously, if the car was warm, hot air would blow straight away.
brettf said:
I have an MTCE unit in my CL9. All climate control things work fine.
MTCE_HF_V3.07_1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have same issues with climate control as described in this thread. My MCU version is MTCE_HF_V2.96_1.
HF manufacturer is not listed in any of XDA threads or wiki. Does anybody know of compatible manufacturer ? Or maybe a link to a MCU upgrade ?
maxbfg said:
Hi,
Anybody have MTCE head unit installed in Honda Accord VII? Which "MTCE Version"?
Many users have problem with rear window defogger (defroster, heater) at least with MTCE_KLD .
Can anybody confirm there are no problems with their head unit?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dunno what MTC(B,D,E etc) actually means (someone please enlighten me?) but I installed a no-name Chinese Xeowyn unit ex AliExpress in my 7th Gen Honda Accord (non Euro) a couple of years back, about AUD 405 delivered.
Came with Android 6.0, quad core, 1GB RAM, 10.1" screen and all the accessories. GPS, front/rear cameras, BT, WiFi, SWC, OBDII, 2xUSB in. Installed by self very neatly after finding a vid on Youtube which showed the same unit (different brand) being installed in the same car, 2003 model. Everything works well except I couldn't get the OBDII happening, no biggie. All climate controls/air flows/demisters work.. Internet is a bit slow, even when connected by hotspot to my S10e. I'm guessing the bottleneck here is the BT or the low RAM by today's standards of 1GB, but it is usable unless ya try to watch a Youtube HD vid on the fly. Couldn't get BT to connect for internet, but BT for phone connection for making/receiving calls with audio through speakers work very well with good reports from the person at the other end of a call.
Would love to know if it's possible to upgrade to more recent Android version but even if it is, it may be beyond my tech capability, and I don't wanna brick it.
Found a Seicane unit for AUD 415 (can't post links yet, check it out for yourself) on AliExpress with octacore, 4GB RAM, Android Pie... very tempted!
Hi here,
I'm a Honda Accord owner (CM02). Chinese Unit with A/C controls is far away the original equipment about temperature & air distribution. In add, I red some very bad feedbacks on A/C compressor management, running it continously and destroying it after fews month because A/C circuit pressure is too high... That's why I recommand to keep A/C controler.
I've started to work on my Android unit installation, I'll connect it on CD charger input of the original stereo.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=79971177&postcount=295
IloveJapan said:
Hi here,
I'm a Honda Accord owner (CM02). Chinese Unit with A/C controls is far away the original equipment about temperature & air distribution. In add, I red some very bad feedbacks on A/C compressor management, running it continously and destroying it after fews month because A/C circuit pressure is too high... That's why I recommand to keep A/C controler.
I've started to work on my Android unit installation, I'll connect it on CD charger input of the original stereo.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=79971177&postcount=295
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This solution is far away from "comfortable", I used to have a mobile phone located in this place (inside "cd box") for a couple of months. In my opinion it is dangerous to keep your eyes off the road and keep your eyes down there, the display should be located in the place where original display is located.
Plan on upgrading my old truck with an Android headunit and saw ATOTO, anyone knows about this brand?
tillthedark said:
Plan on upgrading my old truck with an Android headunit and saw ATOTO, anyone knows about this brand?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Own a S8 Premium of this brand for almost 4 months now and still works good.
Recommendations for the 10″. You can make phone calls (check local laws), access your music, receive messages and get directions . You are not always going to be limited to either Android or Apple now or in the future. With the AutoLink option, you can also cast what's on your phone screen to S8's display.
I bought an ATOTO S8 (Gen 2) and it has been an absolute disaster. The thing drains my car battery completely if I don't drive my car for 3 days. I've been fighting with "support" for over 3 months and they keep jerking me around and making me jump through hoops and refusing to actually support their product. Don't waste your time or money.
theholyhermit said:
I bought an ATOTO S8 (Gen 2) and it has been an absolute disaster. The thing drains my car battery completely if I don't drive my car for 3 days. I've been fighting with "support" for over 3 months and they keep jerking me around and making me jump through hoops and refusing to actually support their product. Don't waste your time or money.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you read others on these forums complaining if the same issues you have.
You don't say how it was installed, with/out canbus and what you have tried to resolve the problems. So one could conclude user/install issue.
marchnz said:
Do you read others on these forums complaining if the same issues you have.
You don't say how it was installed, with/out canbus and what you have tried to resolve the problems. So one could conclude user/install issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
One could conclude that if one wanted to assume that I am an idiot, which I am not. Thanks for the insult, though. I've been installing car stereos for many years. This vehicle has one of the most straightforward setups ever. The head unit doesn't deep sleep, it keeps pulling huge amounts of current, even with the key off, thereby killing the battery. Electricity 101.
theholyhermit said:
One could conclude that if one wanted to assume that I am an idiot, which I am not. Thanks for the insult, though. I've been installing car stereos for many years. This vehicle has one of the most straightforward setups ever. The head unit doesn't deep sleep, it keeps pulling huge amounts of current, even with the key off, thereby killing the battery. Electricity 101.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Post details instead of diatribe if you want others to help.
theholyhermit said:
One could conclude that if one wanted to assume that I am an idiot, which I am not. Thanks for the insult, though. I've been installing car stereos for many years. This vehicle has one of the most straightforward setups ever. The head unit doesn't deep sleep, it keeps pulling huge amounts of current, even with the key off, thereby killing the battery. Electricity 101.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you have been installing these systems for years, then you would have known by now that the 12V continuous and 12V ACC are sometimes switched nowadays as it is controlled by the CANbus instead of old-fashioned last century analog logics.
There are nowadays even units that allow you to switch this in the settings so you don't have to fiddle with the wires.
What you describe looks exactly that.
Did you already check that in your car?
And did you search the web ? As that has already been described in many posts. I don't challenge your intelligence, but you behave rather aggressive when someone asks you very valid questions. Please use your intelligence and please think before you answer.
Yeah, sorry for my bad attitude. This whole mess with ATOTO "support" has me extremely frustrated and I snapped when I shouldn't have. I apologize.
Regarding the power drain, this is a 2002 WRX - it doesn't have a CANbus. The red wire is switched (ON when in ACC/Start/Run), which I verified is working with a multimeter, and the constant is constant. When I switch the key off, the red goes to 0 volts, as it should, the screen turns off, but the S8 keeps drawing between 300 and 700 mA of power, even though deep sleep is supposed to be under 15 mA. If I leave the S8 installed and I don't start my car for 3 days, the battery is down to 10 volts and it won't start. Take the S8 out and it started just fine today after sitting since last Sunday (as one would expect).
I realize that defective units happen, and that would be fine, no big deal. Instead of dealing with that properly, though, ATOTO "support" has jerked me around for 3 months now, making redo the same tests over and over, giving me conflicting information, etc. I bought this in December and I still don't have a working HU in my car.
On top of that, the specs I saw when I bought it said it had aptX (it doesn't, and the advertising has changed), and the normal Bluetooth audio sounds absolutely horrible. Not just "not as good as aptX," but actually terrible. Sounds great if I put in a USB drive with the same music, though. The screen mirroring apps is one of the worst Android apps I have ever used - not just a bad mirroring app, but a terrible app all around (verified by my roommate, who is an android developer), and it won't do audio over the USB, it still requires it over the BT.
Put all that together and I recommend avoiding ATOTO. Your mileage may vary.
This may not apply to the ATOTO, but I believe this is available in many head units...
There is a setting that determines whether the head unit goes to sleep or actually turns off when the power to the unit is turned off. The sleep setting is for those people that want the head unit to immediately turn on when the car is started at a (much) later time...and not go through the normal power on process. I have mine set to always go off to avoid possible battery drain. I'm not sure how much power is used when in sleep but you should check that setting.
Also note that when many head units are turned off, the screen goes off but the head units remain on for a number of minutes until they actually turn off. This extra time can be useful if you had just turned off your car and forgot to do something on the head unit...when you turn the key on it's right where you left it. May be it's set that way to turn off the head unit gracefully, unmount USB, etc. I believe the more recent firmware has settings that can specify how long after power off that the unit actually shuts down.
Additionally, there is or may be another setting, not related to the sleep mode, that determines the on/off behaviour of the head unit...I can't remember the name. For example, if you get in your car and put the key in accessory and listen to the radio for a while, if you then start your car, you may see the head unit turn off and then back on. The setting is used to address this behaviour so that the screen doesn't go off. I think this is also useful for those cars where the engine stops and starts automatically at stop lights...not sure. I think this setting is not obvious and is not named what you would expect. I believe it's under Factory settings or Car Agreement or something like that. Then there is an option there may have the name something like Engine Shutdown Option. May be different in different models (i.e. Joying/TEyes/etc) and different depending on the Canbus module.
Anyway, these are the things that I seem to recall and they may or may not apply to your situation. Have a look at the settings if there is anything similar...Good Luck!
A quick search yields a number of topics for this FYT variant, e.g. https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/atoto-s8-g2-doesnt-sleep-for-5-min-after-key-removal.4414505/
Just as above @mastrv mentions and search results above lists.
Assume OP is saying unit consumes 300mA+ after 5 minutes, however hasn't defined, nor has battery status been empirically defined as good.
What I do know from years of posts on these forums is that the head unit hasn't been the issue. With respect to OP, often the issue is battery or install, install such as swapped acc and +B, or the supplied wiring harness has these swapped.
Fully agree with comments regarding sellers, they're all - not sugar coating it - ****, and make all number of false claims and promises.
theholyhermit said:
Regarding the power drain, this is a 2002 WRX - it doesn't have a CANbus. The red wire is switched (ON when in ACC/Start/Run), which I verified is working with a multimeter, and the constant is constant. When I switch the key off, the red goes to 0 volts, as it should, the screen turns off, but the S8 keeps drawing between 300 and 700 mA of power, even though deep sleep is supposed to be under 15 mA. If I leave the S8 installed and I don't start my car for 3 days, the battery is down to 10 volts and it won't start. Take the S8 out and it started just fine today after sitting since last Sunday (as one would expect).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some years ago I had the same with my Skoda and a Joying, but in that case the ACC and CONT were both continuous.
see this work-around document which I have shared by now many times.
I hope it helps.
surfer63 said:
Some years ago I had the same with my Skoda and a Joying, but in that case the ACC and CONT were both continuous.
see this work-around document which I have shared by now many times.
I hope it helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the info, but as I said above, there is no CANbus in a 2002 WRX. The switched ON/ACC behaves exactly as it should and goes to 0v when the key is off. If I then disconnect the wire completely, so that only the constant power is connected, the S8 keeps drawing far, far more current than it should.
mastrv said:
This may not apply to the ATOTO, but I believe this is available in many head units...
There is a setting that determines whether the head unit goes to sleep or actually turns off when the power to the unit is turned off. The sleep setting is for those people that want the head unit to immediately turn on when the car is started at a (much) later time...and not go through the normal power on process. I have mine set to always go off to avoid possible battery drain. I'm not sure how much power is used when in sleep but you should check that setting.
Also note that when many head units are turned off, the screen goes off but the head units remain on for a number of minutes until they actually turn off. This extra time can be useful if you had just turned off your car and forgot to do something on the head unit...when you turn the key on it's right where you left it. May be it's set that way to turn off the head unit gracefully, unmount USB, etc. I believe the more recent firmware has settings that can specify how long after power off that the unit actually shuts down.
Additionally, there is or may be another setting, not related to the sleep mode, that determines the on/off behaviour of the head unit...I can't remember the name. For example, if you get in your car and put the key in accessory and listen to the radio for a while, if you then start your car, you may see the head unit turn off and then back on. The setting is used to address this behaviour so that the screen doesn't go off. I think this is also useful for those cars where the engine stops and starts automatically at stop lights...not sure. I think this setting is not obvious and is not named what you would expect. I believe it's under Factory settings or Car Agreement or something like that. Then there is an option there may have the name something like Engine Shutdown Option. May be different in different models (i.e. Joying/TEyes/etc) and different depending on the Canbus module.
Anyway, these are the things that I seem to recall and they may or may not apply to your situation. Have a look at the settings if there is anything similar...Good Luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I thought there was a setting for deep sleep, too, but I spent half an hour going through every setting I could and I couldn't find it.
This Subaru is of an era where the stereo setup was very simple. No fancy keeping it on until you open the door or that sort of thing. Just plain on and off. My previous DVD deck had no problems and shut off immediately with the key.
I have tested my battery and it is fine, not terribly old. Even leaving the stereo on for 5 minutes after turning the car off wouldn't be enough to drain the battery to prevent starting the car. It takes 3 days or so of sitting (this is my fun car, not my daily driver) with the ATOTO installed to kill off the battery (by kill off, I mean, reduce the charge enough that it won't turn the engine over, it's not flat dead).
theholyhermit said:
I thought there was a setting for deep sleep, too, but I spent half an hour going through every setting I could and I couldn't find it.
This Subaru is of an era where the stereo setup was very simple. No fancy keeping it on until you open the door or that sort of thing. Just plain on and off. My previous DVD deck had no problems and shut off immediately with the key.
I have tested my battery and it is fine, not terribly old. Even leaving the stereo on for 5 minutes after turning the car off wouldn't be enough to drain the battery to prevent starting the car. It takes 3 days or so of sitting (this is my fun car, not my daily driver) with the ATOTO installed to kill off the battery (by kill off, I mean, reduce the charge enough that it won't turn the engine over, it's not flat dead).
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I don't know if yours has it, and mine is just a generic FYT, but there might be a setting in "Factory" settings that says "Power off when ACC off". Mine is set to "off" but the system still seems to cpompletely power off after my preset time (3 minutes in my case)
Post in thread 'ATOTO S8 - System Contents
If you don't know this already, you can access OEM settings on the ATOTO unit this way:
Settings>System, click this option four times continually>input 3368, you will enter into the OEM Settings
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Don't do it. I've had TWO Atoto S8's and after a month or so the on-screen navigation bar freezes/stops responding. The only fix is a full-system reset each time so you'll have to keep doing that every 2-3 weeks.
I swapped out my factory Honda Accord 2016 stereo yesterday and the first thing I noticed was when playing audio via bluetooth the audio was abysmal. I tried a different phone, but the issue remained. When I hooked it up via USB while on Android Auto, the sound night/day better quality.
I'm thinking this unit is going back to Amazon.
On 4PDA, I think I saw a post mentioning a bug in one of the MCU firmware, find our which MCU you have (generic is NOR 53 for FYT 1), then try to upgrade it to see if it fixes your problem.
theholyhermit said:
I bought an ATOTO S8 (Gen 2) and it has been an absolute disaster. The thing drains my car battery completely if I don't drive my car for 3 days. I've been fighting with "support" for over 3 months and they keep jerking me around and making me jump through hoops and refusing to actually support their product. Don't waste your time or money.
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OK, so I just received my S8 Gen 2 Pro 7-inch and this post concerned me.
So I bench tested the unit. No speakers or amp attached, just the antennas and power supply. Everything else including CAN wires disconnected.
I measured the current on the negative lead return to the power supply.
1. Powered up the unit with ACC hot: ran around 900+ mA.
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2. Powered off the unit from the front panel switch, it kept drawing about 700mA
3. I disconnected the ACC wire: after about 1 min the current dropped to 7mA. You can see the disconnected red ACC wire on my finger in the background,
My unit seems to be fine.
vintagephone said:
OK, so I just received my S8 Gen 2 Pro 7-inch and this post concerned me.
So I bench tested the unit. No speakers or amp attached, just the antennas and power supply. Everything else including CAN wires disconnected.
I measured the current on the negative lead return to the power supply.
1. Powered up the unit with ACC hot: ran around 900+ mA.
2. Powered off the unit from the front panel switch, it kept drawing about 700mA
3. I disconnected the ACC wire: after about 1 min the current dropped to 7mA. You can see the disconnected red ACC wire on my finger in the background,
My unit seems to be fine.
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Great post. Exactly my point
Hi.
I too have just installed the S8 Pro.
As of yet not had a flat battery thank god but it's definately not been plain sailing.
Canbus on the mecedes viano 2011 ignores the addon can us box so turns the stereo off permanently....
I've had to wire the supposed live into the switched fag socket so it works everything I turn the key.....plus I know then its off and dead when I walk away.
The dvd player stays lit for 5 mins or so after switching the unit off but at least it does eventually go off.
Best tip as an auto spark is double check supply wire and switched wires...
Mine go from red as a permanent 12v to yellow and switched wire is yellow going g to red.
If you realy worried about it power the unit from 12v and any switched fag socket you have that way you know its off when you walk away with the keys in your .
Canbus is nothing but a pain in my rear and for the 50 quid just for steering controls and a switched 12v which I've now bypassed a d tge fact the unit only accepts 2 inputs off hour sneering inputs key 1 and 2 its pathetic because you can not bake or end calls which is a basic for most cars these days.
Fingers crossed mine seems to work ok...famous last words although working out how to control the external dvd drive is illumination me at the moment.
Its supposed to read everything but so far all I can do is load and unload the disc.
For the money lots of toys however is it worth it for all the grief and crap fitting of the unit.....I'd look at alternatives tbh.