px3 mtce_kld_v2.73_1 no audio after battery swap - MTCD Android Head Units Q&A

Today after swapping the old car battery for a new one, i have no more sound.
i was working perfectly before however nothing now, ihave another px3 in another car and put it in this car and worked just fine, so it has to be in the unit itself.....
any ideas where to look, i was thinking about replacing the core board however i don't think that will solve my problem would it?

Related

[Q] Speaker replacement

Hi all just wondering if anyone here has replaced the internal speakers on their TF? Yesterday I right speaker just died, if I kind of twist it sound comes back for a sec then off again. So I opened this thing up to see how hard it is to replace it. 20 minutes later everything open and do indeed find dead speaker. Does anyone know of where to buy the speakers? Will the speakers from their netbooks work? I personally don't RMA anything so I actually would like to fix it myself. If anyone wants to know how to do it I can help. Thanks
after the last update my speaker also died
Plz How did you replaced your speaker ????
Well I havent replaced it yet. I guess what I'll do is order speakers from the asus netbooks. I'll ley you know how it works out.
I pulled my speakers, unplugged from circuit board and removed from TF.
I found, ordered some replacement plugs and used 30awg to make a few replacement wiring harnesses. It seems the original speaker wire is thinner than 30awg - in my opinion.
I got two different sizes of replacement speakers to test. I have not even tested the originals with my new ($50 scope awg, another story) audio wave generator since removing the speakers.
I was planning to complete my speaker tests and mod the next time I opened my tablet. But, I am not sure when it will happen.

Eonon GA8157 - Audi A3 8PA 2006

Hi there guys.
I just bought a piece of Eonon GA8157 from Eonon. After the install, i got a few small issues (or big, depending on my mood ). Although the biggest of them is that my rear amplifier, that amplifies the subwoofer and the rear speakers isn't working, i have no ideea why, because i have alot of cables, and they were just plug and play.
My problem is the internet. I have two modems along with sim cards inserted. One is ZTE MF667 and the other is ZTE K3565-Z. None of them works. I don't know if there is a list of supported modems, but i thought that they were just plug and play.
From what i understand, i can however make these work if i root my device. I'm great at rooting mobile devices, but i don't want to ruin something to this head unit because it seems hard to modify something.
So, that is the question. Can i root this head unit, or install another firmware, or something to make this usb modems work?
If not, can you recomend me another modem? this unit is dead without internet connection, and i don't want to drain my phone battery by hotspotting it.
Operation System Android 7.1
CPU Processor RK3188 1.6GHz Cortex A9 Quad-Core
RAM SAMSUNG DDR3, 2GB
Memory 16 GB
Based on what i read, i guess that my device is PX3.
Thank you, in advance!
Alin.
I have a 2007 A4 with a MTCD_XRC head unit and I also have the rear amp, but I notice that the rear speakers are much lower then the fronts. I bought a line level converter and was messing with that and a ground loop isolator to get rid of the engine noise. But I have noticed after messing with it, even without ANY rca cables plugged in I still get audio out haha. I have looked at the wiring and I believe what needs to happen to make things totally correct is you need to rewire the back rca cables to go through the converter and completely bypass the rear amp as the head unit has enough juice to power all of the speakers. I also noticed after messing with things that I no longer needed the isolator on any of the speakers and I just moved the center to the rear a few click and it seems to level things out for the time being.
I've messed with a Huewei Cricket USB 4g dealio here and I was able to kind of get it working by using the PPP widget, but I was not getting connected, but the lights were changing so I am pretty sure its working, it just needs some fine tuning (I have project fi as my service provider)
I can try to help ya out if you need a hand, but I if you look further into some of the stuff I have mentioned I think you can figure it out.
Hi, thank you for your comment!
I was thinking at the same ideea yesterday. The amplifier from the unit is very powerfull, much powerfull than the audi one. My front speakers are more powerfull than ever, yet, my back speakers aren't.
My ideea was to rewire the back speakers to the back of the head unit, and connect them in line, but i have no ideea how the subwoofer works. I didn't saw any wires for it. Maybe he's connected in line with the rear speakers?
Fakken said:
Hi, thank you for your comment!
I was thinking at the same ideea yesterday. The amplifier from the unit is very powerfull, much powerfull than the audi one. My front speakers are more powerfull than ever, yet, my back speakers aren't.
My ideea was to rewire the back speakers to the back of the head unit, and connect them in line, but i have no ideea how the subwoofer works. I didn't saw any wires for it. Maybe he's connected in line with the rear speakers?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The built in sub runs off of the rear amp as well. I disconnected and removed that a long time ago and I have a box in my trunk with 2 x 12 inch subs and a separate amp in the back left (It used to be mounted on the back side in the truck of a rear seat). And now with the android unit I ran a dedicated RCA from the back to the trunk for my external amp, I used to run it off of the line outs I tapped into on the rear stock amp.
So if you just wire to the rear speakers directly you should be good.
Thank you!
That was exactly what the chinese guys from eonon said today.
Rewire the cables and i should be good.
I will try this and see if it works along with the sub.
If not, i will rip all the wires, rewire the rear speakers directly to the head unit and buy an aftermarket active subwoofer, and connect it to the sub RCA of the unit.
End of story
Fakken said:
Thank you!
That was exactly what the chinese guys from eonon said today.
Rewire the cables and i should be good.
I will try this and see if it works along with the sub.
If not, i will rip all the wires, rewire the rear speakers directly to the head unit and buy an aftermarket active subwoofer, and connect it to the sub RCA of the unit.
End of story
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not exactly the same, but some good similar info just to dig through to get ideas, I do not agree with all of it but just good to mull over. I have so many pages saved of people talking about similar stuff when I was doing research on mine haha.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7158675-Head-Unit-Recommendation/page2

Core Board or Motherboard not working? Joying FYT6021

Hello, I have a Joying 6.2 inch Intel SoFia 1gb + 16gb FYT6021 HU.
The HU stopped working, it froze and I had stripes. I tried to restart it but nothing, I tried again the next day, it booted up and the car logo was showing for 5 seconds and then again. Since then it doesn't start anymore, all fuses were okay. It is dead, no button lights, no sound, nothing. First I was able to charge my phone via the USB cable from the HU but now it doesn't work anymore, opened it and i saw a red light on the Core Board and now it doesn't show any light anymore. Nothing is working anymore. Motherboard looks okay, but the Memory chip on the Core Board looks burned.
How can I check Mainboard or Core Board and see which one is not working?
Would the USB charge my Phone without a (working) Core Board?
Where do I get a Core Board? I would like to put an FYT6026 in it if the old one is bad, is it possible?
Thanks for your help and sorry for my English, I am from Germany.
Hi there,
Joying support is actually sending me a brand new FYT6026 because they think this will fix the issue with my HU (it reboots about 50% of the times I start the car, but it otherwise works great). If you can't get another FYT6026, I'll gladly sell you my (slightly defective? maybe?) FYT6026 once the new one arrives and is installed into my HU.

Dasaita fo Toyota Rav4 2015 PX6 factory slot USB stopped working - no power either

Hi All
I have a Max6 Dasaita PX6 for Toyota Rav4. It comes with two usb sockets whihc are in the glovebox and one extra which connects the factory usb socket with the Dasaita Radio.
This fatory USB slot stopped working. I dont know how and why but it did wokr and then sudeenly it does not. It dosent even have power. Could this have to do somethign with the fact that the car battery had to be changed? because this is the only thing whihc has been changed in the car recently, but the usb did work after that. Now I did not use the car for two weeks, and now when I turn it on everything works except this factory usb slot. it dosent even has power anymore. Did anyone has encounterd something similar like this?
What did the reseller suggest when contacted for support?
Had a similar experience with my px5. Just ended up unhooking the power to the HU, then reconnecting it. It started working and haven't had an issue since.

PX5 Audio problems: Schreeching sound!

Hi,
I have the Seicane PX5 MTCE HF and it was working fine until 2 months ago, a screeching sound happen and then no more sound!
I have contacted the sales person and I was trying to get it fix, with the support.
They never heard that sound before.
in any case, they can't help.
I would like to know if anyone can identify the sound and if it is possible to fix.
I'm ready to use a USB DAC if nothing else work.
The sound happear every time I start the car, about 1 to 2 mins after it started, then nothing... until the car cool again.
Before the screaching sound happen, the unit work normaly, the sound is normal.
Even if there is no music, the sound happen.
Any input is the same results.
The rest of the unit work the same, just no more sounds.
*** Results ***
I want to thank you all for your tips and things to look for.
I did find that the amplifier IC is way too hot and did crack the PCB on the edje and few coposants have crack too.
I tried to replace them, but still the amplifier is still too hot after I fill out the gaps beteen the IC and the cassing.
In any case I decided to replace the unit.
I bought a YT9213A_00009_v001_20200806
8227L v 3.4
MCU 3.1 (?)
... and I regret it, no output for the back speakers, no base sound at all!
I bought an external amplifier 4x50w and 600w subwoofer and the RCA plugs have no output on the back two speakers and no subwoofer output!
So, it is slower than the PX5, the radio is only FM and loose the signals all the time, sometime it switch the station by itself!
I'm not happy with the unit, difficult to do setup as of now, the buttons on the side are no longer working.
Like I said, not happy.
If you know a way to reset ALL options to get back the buttons, that would be a step in the correct direction.
Thank you again for all of your tips to fix the PX5.
Richard.
When I took my HU apart I found there was a load of heatsink compound between the amp IC and the case indicating there's a large gap between the 2. I used thermal epoxy to shim the case and close the gap but there's a good chance simply re-mounting the board would have been enough.
All you need to do is undo all the board mounting screws except the ones for the amp. Tighten the amp screws but don't go crazy they're fairly small screws and won't take too much torque then put the board screws back in with a small screwdriver so not to over torque them.
nic2k said:
When I took my HU apart I found there was a load of heatsink compound between the amp IC and the case indicating there's a large gap between the 2. I used thermal epoxy to shim the case and close the gap but there's a good chance simply re-mounting the board would have been enough.
All you need to do is undo all the board mounting screws except the ones for the amp. Tighten the amp screws but don't go crazy they're fairly small screws and won't take too much torque then put the board screws back in with a small screwdriver so not to over torque them.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi nic2k,
Thank you for your suggestion, I'll have to wait until the weather is a bit warmer.
Thank you for looking into this bizarre sound.
Have a great one!
Richard.
VE2HRJ said:
I have the Seicane PX5 MTCE HF
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could try to upgrade the MCU to this one if your version is lower and your head unit doesn't have a dedicated DSP chip:
latest MCU HF available on the net: V3.30 sound patched for better audio
dmcu(MTCE-HF-3.30sp+by+cs-x).7z
https://mega.nz/#F!T1FgjA7A!wc9p40bocqCiBX8XPR50ig?jhUEmAYD
Hi themissionimpossible,
Thank you for the MTCE file, I already update to v3.30.​You mentioned: “... your head unit doesn't have a dedicated DSP chip”, how can I know?
There another effect from the new version of the MTCE: the Wifi selection under [Setup], [Car], [Factory Setup]: the Wifi module name is not there anymore, nor the Bluetooth!
So even if I tried each one, reboot, test… still no Wifi or Bluetooth for now, but that’s another story.​
I’ll try nic2k's suggestion when the weather cooperates.
Thank you again for your suggestion, much appreciated.
Richard.
VE2HRJ said:
You mentioned: “... your head unit doesn't have a dedicated DSP chip”, how can I know?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Besides looking inside the HU for the DSP board, you might find from the specs if your unit has this option included (indeed not very common...)
Hi,
what upgrade to MCU: M32L0_ZIQI-PUBLIC-W-S16_20190801_HB1_6686_N_IF_8A ?
MediaTek MT8321M 4xARM Cortex-A7 1300MHz 32-bit
Thank you
Jan
jan1994 said:
what upgrade to MCU: M32L0_ZIQI-PUBLIC-W-S16_20190801_HB1_6686_N_IF_8A ?
MediaTek MT8321M 4xARM Cortex-A7 1300MHz 32-bit
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately you don't look to have a MTCB or MTCD/E head unit, so you'd better ask in the general section:
https://forum.xda-developers.com/android-auto/android-head-units

Categories

Resources