Hey,
I need a bit of help. My parking sensor display is showing in a wrong way. When I park a car its starts from the red line and with a long sound beeeppp. When I park closer to the object, starts displaying a green color and a sound starts to beeeppp beeppp beepp Any solution on that? Thanks
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I searched and read the manual but this is unclear.
I understand that on the right hand side of the earpiece there are front cam and notification LED embeded but what is the smaller round thing on the left side of it?
Thanks.
That is the light sensor. It does a couple of things. It adjusts the screen brightness depending on light level wherever you may be, and it will also deactivate your screen while you are in a call by sensing your face is near the receiver.
It must be a light sensor. Used to help with setting the automatic brightness. Might also be used to determine whether the ringtone mode should be set to "Pocket Mode" possibly, but that's just speculation. But it's a light sensor.
Thanks guys... I thought proximity sensor on the black area = light sensor
thats some alien thingy. it fires up laser if you stare at the device too long.
Hi all,
Just love the Sensation - but some of the enhancements I have found also have a sting in the tail. Anyone give me any pointers for these?
When riding my motorcycle, I have the Sensation plugged in to crash helmet headset. Found "Not Another Call Manager" to give me phone auto-answer. Normally I have my music on, and when a call comes in it gets auto-answered. Every thing fine - yes, really fine.
Small problem is that when I get kitted up, I turn on the music and slip the phone in my breast pocket. Sometimes as I slip it in, the phone decides to redial the last number, alternatives are music switching off or selecting the next track.
I understand the music oddities - swipe left/right gets you next track and also pause is available - just odd that it does this with the screen turned off. But I don't understand where the phone comes in - I can't find anywhere that you can just swipe the screen in any particular direction to get last number re-dial.
I have now bought a leather wallet to put the sensation in whilst riding, but it didn't stop a "pocket call" first thing this morning, even through the sensitivity seems to be greatly reduced.
All comments, help and guidance welcomed
MrSums
Check in the settings to see if something is enabled that would change the track if you shake the phone.
That seems to be the most likely culprit.
Mrsums said:
Hi all,
Just love the Sensation - but some of the enhancements I have found also have a sting in the tail. Anyone give me any pointers for these?
When riding my motorcycle, I have the Sensation plugged in to crash helmet headset. Found "Not Another Call Manager" to give me phone auto-answer. Normally I have my music on, and when a call comes in it gets auto-answered. Every thing fine - yes, really fine.
Small problem is that when I get kitted up, I turn on the music and slip the phone in my breast pocket. Sometimes as I slip it in, the phone decides to redial the last number, alternatives are music switching off or selecting the next track.
I understand the music oddities - swipe left/right gets you next track and also pause is available - just odd that it does this with the screen turned off. But I don't understand where the phone comes in - I can't find anywhere that you can just swipe the screen in any particular direction to get last number re-dial.
I have now bought a leather wallet to put the sensation in whilst riding, but it didn't stop a "pocket call" first thing this morning, even through the sensitivity seems to be greatly reduced.
All comments, help and guidance welcomed
MrSums
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i have the exact same problem when riding my bike. the issue is that the phone will pickup the headset connection and freak the **** out and start auto dialing. Mine is worse, it will call and hang up > 3 secs of music > call and hang up > 3 seconds of the next track > loop like this till I pull over and unplug my headset.
The issue is with the headphone jack and somehow its sensing commands as if you have a remote plugged into the line.
i haven't found a way to stop it. Somedays i get by with no problems, while others I will have to pull over 2-3 times on the way to my destination
BrokenWall said:
i have the exact same problem when riding my bike. the issue is that the phone will pickup the headset connection and freak the **** out and start auto dialing. Mine is worse, it will call and hang up > 3 secs of music > call and hang up > 3 seconds of the next track > loop like this till I pull over and unplug my headset.
The issue is with the headphone jack and somehow its sensing commands as if you have a remote plugged into the line.
i haven't found a way to stop it. Somedays i get by with no problems, while others I will have to pull over 2-3 times on the way to my destination
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great call! I have had this a few times too, but didn't realise it was the jack connector - I thought it was the act of slipping it into the pocket. Makes a lot of sense as when I use my bluetooth headset (not configured for the bike) everything works perfectly. May have to consider going BT on the bike.
However, once I am up and running I don't think it happens at all.
I have this problem but I don't ride a motorbike - I just get it when I'm walking along with the phone in my trouser pocket.
Hey, from time to time I am noticing some weird glitches on games. Like for example when I press home button while playing a game, the sound level increases to max for a fraction of the second before exiting the app.
I can't always reproduce this bug, so I had no way of proving it.
But now I started to play Hill Climb Racing game and when I fully upgraded the engine of the first vehicle, it started to produce loud white noise even though I set the media volume to minimum.
Here's the video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JLkt1WCbYo4
Can anyone else reproduce this bug? Is this a game/phone soft bug or something more serious?
I got the game and played for 30 minutes with the volume off. During that time, there was a really loud noise out of the speaker for about 1 second while I was racing. I didn't manage to get the engine upgraded fully, but yes it's clear that this game has a sound bug.
Phew! I was starting to panic!
Although for me there are no random noises when I turn the sound completely off!
Hi Guys,
I recently installed a Newsmy Carpad on my 1987 Peugeot 305 and it works fine as long as I dont start the car.
I thought it was the alternator causing this so removed it and started car to see if the problem solves. No luck at all!
Then I thought some AC/ EMI interference is in wire harness so installed four bridge rectifiers in four power lines feeding the carpad, but again no luck.
I gave a direct power line from outside the car from car battery and started the car - no luck!
Today, in no alternator mode, I switched on the car, allowed carpad to turn on, then played some music and started car...music was playing with no noise at all, the screen went black, but when I placed finger on the player the mp3 playing jumped to several play points...so the screen is working even though I can see nothing on it..
The car has a contact breaker system for ignition. Im thinking of replacing it with a electronic one..Could the contact breaker be causing this issue?
Please help guys, thanks..
I have a MTCD/MTCE head unit from Witson(MX) and i'm using the latest Malaysk rom and Mcu(1.75) for my unit.
I can hear a low pitched static noise from speakers when car is silent. It's not loud, but i can hear it. I just realised source of this static is LCD screen. If I decrease brightness of LCD or completely shutdown LCD the static noise came from speaker stops. The sound is even changing with respect to colors on LCD.
My question is: I don't want to return my unit. Can someone with technical knowledge say me how can i solve this problem? Should i install some kind of filter on speaker cables? Should i ground case of the unit or Lcd?
I have the same noise, I didn’t do anything about it because I never have a situation without listening to something. When I drive it’s impossible to hear it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Interesting. I have the same noise but haven’t figured out what causes it. I’ll check your LCD theory tomorrow.
a) I have PCB mounted quadlock (VW) on rear of HU
b) i have factory fitted amp in skoda superb ii (VW quadlock - not RCAs used)
c) with aftermarket HU, the amp is turned on when the key is in ignition position and not controlled by canbus like with original
** this is have a very faint hiss from the unbalanced line input being on without a source, but is not the noise we are referring to here **
d) noise is not present if i put back Chinese WinCE HU or original RNS315
e) there is no noise during initial boot screen, or car logo or even during loading of Car Loader AG (inc with HA rom) from cold boot
f) shortly after the Loader screen, the +/- volume keys become active - this is when the noise starts (motor running or not - the noise is the same)
g) if you put the car in reverse prior to turning on, you see white lines about 1cm apart before the vol +/- is activated.
h) once the volume is activated, the noise includes a clicking of about 150-180 bpm (the white lines on the reverse camera flicker to this beat as well)
i) using factory settings/touch keys to config pwr key for short press screen off / long press pwr off and the screen off does not affect noise.
j) changing the factory settings/other/amp gain from 0 to -12db or -15db lowers the noise gain but requires increase volume to overcome the noise.
k) the noise varies and fluctuates with changes in the menu e.g. scrolling and display e.g. download % counter changes
l) the noise varies and fluctuates with touches to the touch screen
m) the noise does not change in amplitude with changes to the system volume control
I have seen a thread where it is suggested, that the interference is coming from the LCD screen and can be verified by turning the screen off - see g) above
** the other thing i am suspicious about is the grounding. I am connected through Quadlock, but trying to power via the Quadlock on a bench doesn't work. Only via
the white connector with the RCAs. says to me something funny going on with either the power or ground wiring. **
Based on all the above, it seems fairly clear that the issue is either the LCD/CPU or some other RF component inducing the noise into the system. i.e. design fault.
I don't have an oscilloscope so can't probe if the noise is on the LCD cables or being induced by the screen RFI without shielding.
Simple test might be to remove the front screen (while still plugged in) and extend the cable moving the screen as far as possible, possible place a metal sheet behind the screen and in front of the unit, to see if the noise changes.. That would at least tell if it is a shielding problem with the screen.
i am surprised there is no solution to this so far, as it is commonly reported among various brands of the PX5 Android boxes.
I am going away, so wont be able to look at this for a few weeks, but would like to hear from anybody who is game to try removing the screen from the case initially.
gwaitsi said:
a) I have PCB mounted quadlock (VW) on rear of HU
b) i have factory fitted amp in skoda superb ii (VW quadlock - not RCAs used)
c) with aftermarket HU, the amp is turned on when the key is in ignition position and not controlled by canbus like with original
** this is have a very faint hiss from the unbalanced line input being on without a source, but is not the noise we are referring to here **
d) noise is not present if i put back Chinese WinCE HU or original RNS315
e) there is no noise during initial boot screen, or car logo or even during loading of Car Loader AG (inc with HA rom) from cold boot
f) shortly after the Loader screen, the +/- volume keys become active - this is when the noise starts (motor running or not - the noise is the same)
g) if you put the car in reverse prior to turning on, you see white lines about 1cm apart before the vol +/- is activated.
h) once the volume is activated, the noise includes a clicking of about 150-180 bpm (the white lines on the reverse camera flicker to this beat as well)
i) using factory settings/touch keys to config pwr key for short press screen off / long press pwr off and the screen off does not affect noise.
j) changing the factory settings/other/amp gain from 0 to -12db or -15db lowers the noise gain but requires increase volume to overcome the noise.
k) the noise varies and fluctuates with changes in the menu e.g. scrolling and display e.g. download % counter changes
l) the noise varies and fluctuates with touches to the touch screen
m) the noise does not change in amplitude with changes to the system volume control
I have seen a thread where it is suggested, that the interference is coming from the LCD screen and can be verified by turning the screen off - see g) above
** the other thing i am suspicious about is the grounding. I am connected through Quadlock, but trying to power via the Quadlock on a bench doesn't work. Only via
the white connector with the RCAs. says to me something funny going on with either the power or ground wiring. **
Based on all the above, it seems fairly clear that the issue is either the LCD/CPU or some other RF component inducing the noise into the system. i.e. design fault.
I don't have an oscilloscope so can't probe if the noise is on the LCD cables or being induced by the screen RFI without shielding.
Simple test might be to remove the front screen (while still plugged in) and extend the cable moving the screen as far as possible, possible place a metal sheet behind the screen and in front of the unit, to see if the noise changes.. That would at least tell if it is a shielding problem with the screen.
i am surprised there is no solution to this so far, as it is commonly reported among various brands of the PX5 Android boxes.
I am going away, so wont be able to look at this for a few weeks, but would like to hear from anybody who is game to try removing the screen from the case initially.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not the LCD, at least on my unit. The noise is much higher if I connect a flash memory to one of the USB connectors. I can hear the noise as Android is reading the memory content. I think the noise from the digital domain is getting to the analog path somehow. Would be interesting to install some power filters for the analog part or play with the grounding. May do it later if I can find some free time... I do have an oscilloscope but I don't have the time for the research yet...
G0bl1n said:
It's not the LCD, at least on my unit. The noise is much higher if I connect a flash memory to one of the USB connectors. I can hear the noise as Android is reading the memory content. I think the noise from the digital domain is getting to the analog path somehow. Would be interesting to install some power filters for the analog part or play with the grounding. May do it later if I can find some free time... I do have an oscilloscope but I don't have the time for the research yet...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I found it easier to track down with a signal tracer, i.e. a probe connected to an audio amp and headphones.
xdamember2 said:
I found it easier to track down with a signal tracer, i.e. a probe connected to an audio amp and headphones.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I removed the main board from my unit. Bottom layer on the PCB is filled with a ground plane but has many connections cutting through it. I'm wondering if they have a dedicated ground plane as a middle layer. If they don't it's possible there are ground loops which can cause the noice. I will try to add some wires to improve the grounding. Will update when I have any info.
i can hear static too but from my little speaker that produces the parking sensors and indicators sounds.. when the unit seems to be processing i can also hear some. Let us know later @G0bl1n.
Hello, I have the noise when the car radio is connected to wifi or bluetooth
Guys...check your Wifi angena on the back....it makes this annoying noise. Change wifi antenat to external on the cable.....it fixes issue 100%
BoNt3k said:
Guys...check your Wifi angena on the back....it makes this annoying noise. Change wifi antenat to external on the cable.....it fixes issue 100%
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Click to collapse
Can someone else confirm this solution please? It's very difficult to dissamble the head unit from my car.
traxformania said:
Can someone else confirm this solution please? It's very difficult to dissamble the head unit from my car.
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Click to collapse
Did you find any solution? I have the same problem
Any updates on this? I'm experiencing the same issue when the LCD screen is bring used... Eben noting a significant difference between noise when a live wallpaper vs a plain wallpaper is being used. Would in line magnets in the power and ground source help? Any progress? This is really frustrating
Jonnymooshoo said:
Any updates on this? I'm experiencing the same issue when the LCD screen is bring used... Eben noting a significant difference between noise when a live wallpaper vs a plain wallpaper is being used. Would in line magnets in the power and ground source help? Any progress? This is really frustrating
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure if it's the screen itself or the electronics on the board controlling the screen. If I ever get more time on my hands what I would love to do is try extending the ribbon cable on the screen so I could remove it away from the unit and see what that does for noise. If it works then you could always dash mount the screen and stick the unit under your seat... or what ever. Haven't had the time though.
Anyway, there have been a lot of threads and posts on noise with people trying all sorts of stuff to stop it and I haven't seen a foolproof method yet.
One thing which seems to work for those using external amps is to use the speaker level outs and convert down as opposed to using the rca outs. Another thing which seems to work is to adjust the gain on the external amp down until the noise is no longer heard. You do obviously lose a bit of volume headroom though.