so , i have a G6 i was using a samsung aftermarket fast charger QC3.0 , just when plugged it in the phone vibrated couple times (like of plugging and unplugging the cable) then turned off completely , and won’t turn on tried hard reset .. etc
when i plugged it to the car 12v charger the light of the 12v charger turns off when i just plug the chable in the phone , and turns back on when i take it of the phone (like the phone stopping the electricity )
so i want to know whats faulty , is it the charging port , or the whole Motherboard ,
PS: the electricty in that room is not good at all , after the incident i knew that i burned 2 phones charging port !
mokhledredjimi said:
so , i have a G6 i was using a samsung aftermarket fast charger QC3.0 , just when plugged it in the phone vibrated couple times (like of plugging and unplugging the cable) then turned off completely , and won’t turn on tried hard reset .. etc
when i plugged it to the car 12v charger the light of the 12v charger turns off when i just plug the chable in the phone , and turns back on when i take it of the phone (like the phone stopping the electricity )
so i want to know whats faulty , is it the charging port , or the whole Motherboard ,
PS: the electricty in that room is not good at all , after the incident i knew that i burned 2 phones charging port !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It definitely fried something, but it would be anyone's guess as to whether it fried the USB port or the motherboard without opening the device and physically examining the hardware.
Maybe the soldering on the pins connecting the USB port to the board were weakened from heat over time before this then applying a different power source was too much for them. The soldering on the USB port pins becoming weaked over time due to heat is a common issue that is usually solved by "re-flowing" the joints with a professional soldering station but that won't help you at this point. If it just burned the soldered pins, a professional shop could replace that for you, the part would be cheap but the labor charge to do the work might not be cheap. A lot of pro shops don't even replace the USB port, they just replace the motherboard so they can charge you more for the repair.
If your device has a the USB port connected to the main motherboard, you might need a new motherboard. If your USB port is soldered to a "daughterboard" separate from the motherboard, you can probably just change the daughterboard itself with a new one to fix the USB port. This would be the best case scenario because you could fix it yourself with the help of some YouTube videos without needing to pay a shop, it's a much cheaper option than professional repair of your hardware. Pro shops would probably just replace the daughterboard instead of replacing the USB port.
Worst case scenario, you might have fried the motherboard where the battery connects to the board, in this case, you might need a new motherboard. It is doubtful this kind of damage occured because there are other things along the way that would have faulted before it got anywhere near the battery and its connection to the board, but it's still "possible" so I'm including it on the list.
That's all the things I can think of off the top of my head.
Sent from my LGL84VL using Tapatalk
Droidriven said:
It definitely fried something, but it would be anyone's guess as to whether it fried the USB port or the motherboard without opening the device and physically examining the hardware.
Maybe the soldering on the pins connecting the USB port to the board were weakened from heat over time before this then applying a different power source was too much for them. The soldering on the USB port pins becoming weaked over time due to heat is a common issue that is usually solved by "re-flowing" the joints with a professional soldering station but that won't help you at this point. If it just burned the soldered pins, a professional shop could replace that for you, the part would be cheap but the labor charge to do the work might not be cheap. A lot of pro shops don't even replace the USB port, they just replace the motherboard so they can charge you more for the repair.
If your device has a the USB port connected to the main motherboard, you might need a new motherboard. If your USB port is soldered to a "daughterboard" separate from the motherboard, you can probably just change the daughterboard itself with a new one to fix the USB port. This would be the best case scenario because you could fix it yourself with the help of some YouTube videos without needing to pay a shop, it's a much cheaper option than professional repair of your hardware. Pro shops would probably just replace the daughterboard instead of replacing the USB port.
Worst case scenario, you might have fried the motherboard where the battery connects to the board, in this case, you might need a new motherboard. It is doubtful this kind of damage occured because there are other things along the way that would have faulted before it got anywhere near the battery and its connection to the board, but it's still "possible" so I'm including it on the list.
That's all the things I can think of off the top of my head.
Sent from my LGL84VL using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thats what i found right now when i opened the mobo , 2 fried components so RIP MOTHERBOARD
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mokhledredjimi said:
thats what i found right now when i opened the mobo , 2 fried components so RIP MOTHERBOARD
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unless you can find a shop that will replace those components for less than the cost of a new motherboard, if replacing the motherboard is cheaper, replace it yourself. Just make VERY certain that you find the correct motherboard, down to the tiniest detail. Match as many numbers on the components as you can when finding a motherboard. Many motherboards a very similar with minor differences, these tiny differences can be a serious roadblock to getting the motherboard to work in a similar device.
Sent from my LGL84VL using Tapatalk
Droidriven said:
Unless you can find a shop that will replace those components for less than the cost of a new motherboard, if replacing the motherboard is cheaper, replace it yourself. Just make VERY certain that you find the correct motherboard, down to the tiniest detail. Match as many numbers on the components as you can when finding a motherboard. Many motherboards a very similar with minor differences, these tiny differences can be a serious roadblock to getting the motherboard to work in a similar device.
Sent from my LGL84VL using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
nevermind , there is no such shop like that where i live , and changing motherboard not gonna give me back my data since am concerned about the data on the phone more then the phone it self , so i'll just buy a new phone and continue living
mokhledredjimi said:
nevermind , there is no such shop like that where i live , and changing motherboard not gonna give me back my data since am concerned about the data on the phone more then the phone it self , so i'll just buy a new phone and continue living
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, that sucks. There are ways to retrieve the data from the dead motherboard but it involves some very technical equipment that I'm sure you don't have access to. You can investigate whether you think you can afford or understand how to do it yourself, if the data is important enough to you.
Sent from my LGL84VL using Tapatalk
Related
Hi friends
I am having an handset(Tilt) with flex cable problem, but wondering if flex cable can solve my phones problem where it is doing the following:
-Not accepting the SIM.
-phone is getting hanged any times, speed is also very pathetic.
-keypad is pressed on its own.
-Phone is not accepting any charger but charging with PC USB.
These are some of the major problems, I wish if someone could help me out in knowing what work does a flex cable plays, coz the technician is charging so much to change the flex cable & giving me no assurance as to what problems will be solved. I would like to know from some of those technicians here who knows something about hardware. Mike I am talking about you specially.
I would like to write this in our XDA encyclopedia given the case I get proper knowledge about it.
Looking forward to answers.
This is quite difficult to answer without testing. The SIM not being recognised will in itself slow down the phone or even create a full blown crash.
It's not stated what flex cable we are talking about. Flex Cables are just multi wire connections between circuit boards. Phones often have 3, 4 or more flex cables. For example between the the physical keypad and the motherboard or the d-pad and the LCD screen or between screen and motherboard etc etc.
It IS possible a flex cable can get damaged. This normally happens in phones with a slide out keyboard where the flex-cable has to roll back and forth as the keyboard slides in and out. However, such a cable would not I think change the charging behaviour of the phone.
It charges on PC connection but not charger connection. To me that normally indicates a USB port connection problem - bent pin in the slot, possibly even crossed pins or a cracked or dry solder joint between the usb port and the motherboard.
Another thing to consider is whether all the battery contacts are making good contact with the phone. Here again the multiple connections between battery and motherboard can become dry or cracked leading to erratic or underpowered connections.
The keypad being pressed on it's own can again be caused by different things:
1
It could be a faulty or loosley connected flex cable
2
Pressure being put on the digitizer screen by something under the bezel or just a damaged digitizer layer
3
A key that is not releasing from the keyboard properly (is it always the same key or group of keys?)
4
Moisture at many different places inside the phone, including keyboard, d-pad etc. Even when dried out, the residue or oxidisation can continue to cause problems.
So, I would not rule out a flex-cable problem, but it might not be the only fault. Unfortunately then, the technician you spoke to may be correct and it is not possible to guarantee it will solve all problems. Having said that, I would want to say to the technician that I am not going to pay for a new flex if it does not solve any of the problems.
This is where it becomes difficult to decide whether to go for paid for repair or to attempt the job yourself.
Mike
"Layman's iGo Jig" (Solderless)
RadioShack
Subtract $.99, Bought the 1/2 watt resistor, which I did not need.
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But YOU will NEED these:
And
Those two items is all you need to make this work, no soldering iron.
Now the reason I purchased the iGo adapter is cause of this guy here: As you can see, there is 6 pins on this thing.
Micro-USB has 5 pin connections. On a hunch, I was hoping all 5 pins were some how connected to the to the 6 pin adapter, so we didn't have to try and solder the resistor to pin 4, usually hidden in most setups.
Now the most difficult part of this whole process, was trying to get the micro-usb apart, which wasn't that hard at all.
Just take your time. I used a razor, scissors, and my teeth, lol. This is one part I didn't take pics, sorry. But try and "skin" (sort of like peeling) the black piece off.
Once that is off, you'll see a white plastic piece also around it, "skin" that one off too.
Once the white plastic piece is off.
The micro-usb connector and the 6 pin board is held together with a silicone compound that is bonded to the wires.
SLOWLY start picking the silicone compound away. It's really not that hard, just takes time.
Once that is done you should have some thing like this:
Now take your resistors and connect them in series: These are again, 100k resistor x 3. Should look like:
Now let's take a close up of the micro-usb connector. I don't know exactly which is which but I do know that both are pin 4 and 5!
Look at how long they are...that's what makes them special. Pin 4 is not hidden!
Since you got this far now just stick that bad boy in (please make sure the phone is turned off).
I should of cleaned up the wires but I was sort of in a rush:
VERY IMPORTANT: Don't let the other wires touch the connectors to the usb!
That image is with the screen facing me.
Now put in your battery, and take your resistors that you made and connect one end to pin 4 and the other to pin 5, not necessarily in that order.
Make sure you hold the resistors to the pin for at least 3 sec.
Viola!!! DOWNLOAD MODE!!
This was a quick fix for a jig that I needed to get MY phone working without soldering iron, and it worked. The hardest thing so far that I read about making a jig is getting to pin 4 that is usually not being used and hidden. At least this way it's easier to access.
I will end up buying another one and re-making my iGo jig to a more sturdier standard.
By all means, I am not a expertise in this field. I just been reading alot of threads and learn as I go.
So I am sure anyone can make this jig to revive their bricked phone. Trust me, if I can make it, so can you.
*edit: But if you have the chance, please pick up the 1k resistor also (not shown).
100k x3 and 1k resistor, this is the exact recommended ohms to make this work. 301k > It's the right way.
*I do recommend for those that have successfully done this, to (learn) solder the end pieces together. Pin 4 and 5 are long enough so it shouldn't really be that hard.
You won't have the tedious task of trying to manually connecting the two ends every time you want to go into download mode.
Plus I believe basic soldering skill is a must if you like tweaking or a hobbyist of electronic components.*
All the images were take after I was able to get it in download mode. Was not really thinking about doing this write-up, until after the last picture.
Hoping it may help the community one way or the other, and save some $$$
although a sloppy first attempt....this is GREAT knowing that there is an option out there. Thanks for doing the dirty work and purposely bricking your phone to help everyone else. Takes more guts than i have
Great thread. Thanks for doing this kind of thing for the community. I already felt comfortable that Odin could save me a lot of trouble, but now I feel like I can go completely nuts and not half to worry.
So I thought you had to get into Download mode WHILE the phone is plugged into your computer and ODIN is running.
If I understand right, you can use this jig to get into download mode, unplug the jig, and then hook up your phone to a computer and run ODIN?
norcal einstein said:
So I thought you had to get into Download mode WHILE the phone is plugged into your computer and ODIN is running.
If I understand right, you can use this jig to get into download mode, unplug the jig, and then hook up your phone to a computer and run ODIN?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My thoughts also? What do I do after connecting pins 4 and 5 with the resistors?
(Haven't bricked it ... yet! :-D )
Xstop said:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For anyone else needing a usb cable, i suggest ebay.
norcal einstein said:
So I thought you had to get into Download mode WHILE the phone is plugged into your computer and ODIN is running.
If I understand right, you can use this jig to get into download mode, unplug the jig, and then hook up your phone to a computer and run ODIN?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, you are correct. When using the jig, your phone will not be connected to anything, except the jig itself. But before using it, you should take out your battery, SIM, and SD (if you have one).
Plug the jig in > put in the battery > connect with resistor for 2 to 3 sec.
Once the screen is in "Download Mode" > pull jig > open Odin3 on computer > plug in usb to phone > then run Odin3 > done.
peachpuff said:
For anyone else needing a usb cable, i suggest ebay.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I do advise to get it cheaper if you can.
But this is what I had to do to get it up and running that same night, just wasn't that important to me to save $10 for something that will get to me in a week. And I'm sure if you were in the same situation, you would of done the same thing to get your phone up and running.
But THANKS! I needed that link.
9.3% SALES TAX!!! FFFUUUUU that sucks.
9.3% isn't bad.. it's 9.75% here :T ..
and to sum up this article!
you don't really need to solder anything as long as you just rip the usb apart so the wires don't touch when you make your jig!
pretty legit mod, imma try and clean this up a bit and see if i can do a better looking job (no offense on ur job though!)
Another "How To"
What the.. duplicated post... weird.
Another "How To"
Alright guys, I bricked my phone last week (well, not bricked but disabled my 3 button combos and it was FCing on OS boot), and so I set out on the forums to find a clean-solderless alternative to getting into download mode. I didn't feel like dissecting a microusb cable, nor did I feel like soldering
This mod requires:
About a week wait time
A backup phone (if yours is already bricked so you have a phone to use)
A XDA and a Paypal account
First I found this thread (http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=819551) and went over to (http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=10031) to buy a micro usb breakboard. It cost me about 9 dollars shipped to my door. I ordered it on Tuesday, and it got here on Monday (Thursday was veterans day, too). Came in a nice box in which I now store my completed jig.
Edit: Well the person I got my resistor from isnt selling them anymore, so you'll need to find someone to get it from =/ sorry! this isnt as useful then D:
Then you just plug in the resistor in slots 4 and 5 like so...
And you have a working jig. Really easy, works perfectly, and no cutting into any microusb cable. And now you also have this nice little box from sparkfun to store your jig in too. Don't forget to not touch the resistor when you insert it in your phone. Just hold it by the edges of the breakboard. This cost about the same as OP but just requires a little more waiting time. But it's so much neater and less troublesome.
Good Luck!
Edit: Resized picture
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=819551&page=20
post 198, if you want to pay someone to make a JIG for you go here.
I have a bunch of parts for JIGs being delivered to me on Monday. After I make mine, I'm willing to sell the rest to people who need em.
wow that sparkfun jig is REALLY cool!! I don't understand why everyone is so scared of soldering though, unless they simply just don't have a solder gun (you should have one anyway).
I think i will order that sparkfun breakout and solder a resistor in for a nice complete jig.
buddy17 said:
wow that sparkfun jig is REALLY cool!! I don't understand why everyone is so scared of soldering though, unless they simply just don't have a solder gun (you should have one anyway).
I think i will order that sparkfun breakout and solder a resistor in for a nice complete jig.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the reason i didnt solder is because im away at college and all my tinkering equipment is at home (which is about an hour and a half away). i didnt want to buy new equipment just to fix my phone, nor did i want to wait til i went home again..
soldering is easy but it can be daunting if you've never done it before. i mean i've burned my self on my iron before and it was not a fun ordeal ahaha. otherwise from that, this worked quite nicely so i dont need to solder--saved me money and time
they are showing that board out of stock...you must have got the last one!
Since this thread was one of the ones that inspired me to make a Download mode jig, I thought I'd share what I put together today.
Made with a MicroUSB female plug, 300kohm resistor, & wire from a torn apart ethernet cable. I had originally planed for it to be half the size of what it is, and a lot cleaner (without a loop in it). But soldering to the damn usb plug was a pain, and the tins are fairly fragile.
It works like a charm though!
norcal einstein said:
Since this thread was one of the ones that inspired me to make a Download mode jig, I thought I'd share what I put together today.
Made with a MicroUSB female plug, 300kohm resistor, & wire from a torn apart ethernet cable. I had originally planed for it to be half the size of what it is, and a lot cleaner (without a loop in it). But soldering to the damn usb plug was a pain, and the tins are fairly fragile.
It works like a charm though!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looks great and clean work! I ended up purchasing 2 of the micro-usb break-out board, yet I still use the one that is posted to get me into download mode.
I don't know if it has any affect or not, but when I flash to stock with Odin.
I normally won't do a "adb reboot download". But I will turn the phone completely off, pull battery for 5min, then use the jig to get it into download mode, then restore.
Hello,
I know there are a lot of threads on this topic but I tried to use what I learned on this forum to get out of my own jam with local parts.
Disclaimer - I am not responsible for you doing further damage to your phone.
History -
Tried to restore captivate to stock, got phone in download mode - started Odin... looked like things were not starting correctly... pulled usb and battery out... and BOOM.
I got the dreaded phone=computer type display and could not get out of no matter what buttons/battery hold down combo I tried. Note this phone did not support the 3 button trick- it was a 10.07 version.
So -
Go to your local Radio Shack and get part numbers 271-1347 (100k ohm) and 271-1321 (1K ohm) resistors.
Also you need a solder iron and some solder...buy that if you dont have any.
(a meter is nice to have too... but not entirely necessary)
Take your USB cable apart. I had 2 styles of ebay cables... I used the one with bigger shield/jacket. Just look at it, it pops apart at the seams.
Then you see the where the cable is soldered to the micro usb jack.
Before this step... I cut the cable in half and was planning to use the wires for connection points .. not the jack itself but that did not work.
In this cable there are 4 wires...but on the jack there is 5 pins.... and of COURSE pin #4 is the one I need but it has no wire attached to it. ( I found this all out after using my meter on this assembly for a few head scratching minutes...also...if you twist a stripped bread tie to your meter lead it helps in ohming out the pins...)
So - back to the solution
Pin #5 has/had the black wire on it and #4 has NO wire attached on the micro jack.
To clarify - if you are looking at the jack with the pins showing - pins and connections to #4 and #5 are on the right end of the jack - one on the top and one on the bottom of the jack...hope that is clear... if not the pics should make more sense.
Now that you know where the #4 and #5 pins are on the jack, go get the Radio Shack resistors and turn on your solder iron.
Take 3 - 100K resistors and 1 - 1k resistor... Twist the resistors together in series...and solder the joints... then trim the ends up....see the picks.
Take the now cobbled together 301K ohm resistor and solder one end to pin #5 and the other to pin #4. (note you will have to unsolder the black wire from #5 BEFORE you can solder the resistor to it...assuming your jack/cable is like mine..)
Now -
With no sim, memory card, or battery plug installed, plug in this cobbled up mess into your phone.....then put in the battery....
If you did it right it... the phone will go into download mode in seconds.
Pull out the mess and put in your good cable (or put yours back together) and use ODIN as usual.
This saved my butt.
Hope this post might work for someone else some day.
Thanks for all who posted here showing me what is needed to make this work.
Pics
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thanks Kevin
Thanks for the great write-up. What is the reasoning behind what makes this device work? What is it about the device that makes the phone go into download mode? Just curious.
bighitter said:
Thanks for the great write-up. What is the reasoning behind what makes this device work? What is it about the device that makes the phone go into download mode? Just curious.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the phone was designed that way...
Wow, looks like an elaborate setup..glad it worked for you! I think I'll pick up a premade jig though hehe..I have no experience with that sort of tinkering.
Thanks for the great write-up. What is the reasoning behind what makes this device work? What is it about the device that makes the phone go into download mode? Just curious to what everyone but tresselo has to say
Because the phone was designed that way... Certain resistances on usb port will trigger the phone to do different things. 301 is download mode there is one for car dock and others i would imagine
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using XDA App
I've been enjoying mobiletechvideos video reviews of the roms and instructions on how to do stuff, so I ordered a $10 jig as a combination donation/insurance policy. If you enjoy the video reports, throw Josh a bone and grab a USB 301 ohm jig.
I suspect it's easier to store than the resistor model.
Although I'm sure if I was in the OP's shoes, I wouldn't have waited for delivery either. Interesting about the only pin that doesn't have a connection is the one that you need to put the resistor across. I suspect that was completely by design.
I was able to use three 100k-ohm (300ohm) 1/2 watt resistors (radio shack #271-1131). And because I didn't have a extra cord to hack up I just taped up the resistors and was able to touch the two points and get it to work
This forum is a great resource for good information.
Soccer_Dad said:
I've been enjoying mobiletechvideos video reviews of the roms and instructions on how to do stuff, so I ordered a $10 jig as a combination donation/insurance policy. If you enjoy the video reports, throw Josh a bone and grab a USB 301 ohm jig.
I suspect it's easier to store than the resistor model.
Although I'm sure if I was in the OP's shoes, I wouldn't have waited for delivery either. Interesting about the only pin that doesn't have a connection is the one that you need to put the resistor across. I suspect that was completely by design.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is exactly why I went down this road -
I had to get this fixed quickly and not wait for something to come in the mail... or maybe come in the mail.
I also saw Josh's video and promptly ordered a jig from Josh on 2/24 I also sent a follow up email to Josh a few days later.
So far I have heard nothing from him and have not seen the jig in the mail.
EDIT - Received the jig from Josh today 3/2.
Sometimes you have to take matters in your own hands, so speak and I got my phone up and working in 24 hours... if I had the time to run to Radio Shack that night it bricked, could have been resolved in a couple hours.
thanks/good luck to all
Kevin
Hi! My mother's S7 is not recognized by any PC right now. Before I order a new USB PCB I'd like to ask for some help here. The symptoms are:
- Charge and fast charge fully working
- Everything inside the phone is workin, not a single scratch
- When I plug in to any PC, no data mode transfer appears, neither under quick settings, just charging.
- Windows doesnt recognize anything when the phone plugged in, seen on device manager.
Did you install the Samsung USB drivers?
9 times out of 10 it is the USB port. This can be replaced by dismantling the phone and connection a new USB ribbon.
If you have tried this and ruled out the port, I had one where a dodgy charger had fried some components between the USB ribbon connector and the multiplexer IC. I had to replace components ZD8008, ZD8008, R8019 and R8020. These serve as input protection on the USB data lines.
Someone with microsoldering repair experience will be able to replace these for you. You be no more than 75 Euro. It does involve dismantling so may void warranty/water resistance.
BossHogg12 said:
I had a similar problem - turned out a dodgy charger had fried some components between the USB ribbon connector and the multiplexer IC. I had to replace components ZD8008, ZD8008, R8019 and R8020. These serve as input protection on the USB data lines.
Someone with microsoldering repair experience will be able to replace these for you. You be no more than 75 Euro. It does involve dismantling so may void warranty/water resistance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I guessed so. Where can I find this components? Are they smds resistors, capacitors? I know microsoldering but does it deserve the effort? I mean, can I found a USB pcb replacement and just replace the whole piece?
Thank you very much!
EDIT: Like this one
EDIT2: I missunderstood your first line...I haven't already tried to replace the usb pcb. I think I'll try and if it doesn't work, well... I hope not -.-"
I draughted this reply before I saw your edit; sounds like you know what to do though: :good:
Sorry, it never occurred to me that you hadn't tried a new USB port flex yet. 9 times out of 10 it is that. Get one to try; fitting it is a pain because you have to separate the screen from the mid frame for the back/app button backlights but you can test it without removing the old one. They are very cheap and available on eBay etc.
If the new USB doesn't help, the fix is probably the microsolder repair I described above. Those components are in the main PCB so a USB daughterboard swap won't help.
BossHogg12 said:
I draughted this reply before I saw your edit; sounds like you know what to do though: :good:
Sorry, it never occurred to me that you hadn't tried a new USB port flex yet. 9 times out of 10 it is that. Get one to try; fitting it is a pain because you have to separate the screen from the mid frame for the back/app button backlights but you can test it without removing the old one. They are very cheap and available on eBay etc.
If the new USB doesn't help, the fix is probably the microsolder repair I described above. Those components are in the main PCB so a USB daughterboard swap won't help.
Click to expand...
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Yeah, I'll do so. Or I just sell it like that, what comes first hahaha
Thanks!
Has anyone else had this issue when using a type-c to usb 3.1 adapter and connecting it to computer ?
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If that's the only time it's happening the adapter is likely defective if it's clean.
Try clearing system cache and temporarily toggle off Developer options.
The only time I've ever had that happen on my N10+ was when a random raindrop fell straight into the C port Some quality drying time fixed it.
blackhawk said:
If that's the only time it's happening the adapter is likely defective if it's clean.
Try clearing system cache and temporarily toggle off Developer options.
The only time I've ever had that happen on my N10+ was when a random raindrop fell straight into the C port Some quality drying time fixed it.
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lol, i think it just the adapter, i have a set of m type -c 2 f usb, m usb 2 f type c, m type c 2 m type c , its only happening on one of the type c male 2 female usb, just curious if its happened to anyone else wasnt reall seeking help, but thanks
gav83collins said:
lol, i think it just the adapter, i have a set of m type -c 2 f usb, m usb 2 f type c, m type c 2 m type c , its only happening on one of the type c male 2 female usb, just curious if its happened to anyone else wasnt reall seeking help, but thanks
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Be happy for easy fixes. This issue otherwise can get really ugly fast... fortunately this rarely happens.
blackhawk said:
Be happy for easy fixes. This issue otherwise can get really ugly fast... fortunately this rarely happens.
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yeah lets hope not, at £1350 amazon wouldnt be happy me sending it back for a refund lol
gav83collins said:
yeah lets hope not, at £1350 amazon wouldnt be happy me sending it back for a refund lol
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Make sure you have PC connectivity... otherwise you won't be happy. Try a OTG flashstick if you got one laying around... that's a start in the right direction.
Make sure the PC has the right drivers. Generally if SmartSwitch is loaded on the PC it will install the correct drivers... but never depend on SmartSwitch to backup critical data!!! It can fail you miserably and unpredictably.
Without an SD card regular, redundant critical data backups become even more mandatory.
While Androids rarely crash it can and will happen, often with little or no warning.
blackhawk said:
Make sure you have PC connectivity... otherwise you won't be happy. Try a OTG flashstick if you got one laying around... that's a start in the right direction.
Make sure the PC has the right drivers. Generally if SmartSwitch is loaded on the PC it will install the correct drivers... but never depend on SmartSwitch to backup critical data!!! It can fail you miserably and unpredictably.
Without an SD card regular, redundant critical data backups become even more mandatory.
While Androids rarely crash it can and will happen, often with little or no warning.
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Click to collapse
Yeah it's not an issue, like I said earlier I wasn't seeking help, I have other adapters and ways of backing up/transferring, I was just curious to see if others had the same thing happen, but once again for your efforts trying to help
gav83collins said:
Has anyone else had this issue when using a type-c to usb 3.1 adapter and connecting it to computer ?
View attachment 5591399
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Yes
Check out the following thread to see if you think you might have the same issue. I started using the recommended type of connector and no issues so far.
Magnetic USB-C chargers do not work! Triggers moisture sensor block.
I've been using magnetic cables for my Android phones for years. You put the magnetic USB adapter in the charging port of the phone and the USB cable connects magnetically to it. Makes it very easy to charge your phone while driving, keeps dust...
forum.xda-developers.com
Will_T said:
Check out the following thread to see if you think you might have the same issue. I started using the recommended type of connector and no issues so far.
Magnetic USB-C chargers do not work! Triggers moisture sensor block.
I've been using magnetic cables for my Android phones for years. You put the magnetic USB adapter in the charging port of the phone and the USB cable connects magnetically to it. Makes it very easy to charge your phone while driving, keeps dust...
forum.xda-developers.com
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Click to collapse
Truth, magnets and Sammy's don't get along well
blackhawk said:
Truth, magnets and Sammy's don't get along well
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Click to collapse
I've had one in my phone for almost a month. Haven't had a single issue with fast charging or data transfer.