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WISH LIST for NEW ANDROID behaviours

This is a Wish List for any ideas for future development.
Posting a wish here means, the wish author/dreamer does agree, that it is a gift to the dev. community with no future rights of any kind for that dreamer.

My initial wish:
camera app for night vision - giving clear pics/movies in black darknes
- me as a noob - dreamer think, that the app could be written based on standard cam app with light filters altered
- now IR is filtered away to give a clear picture within standard light conditions
- what if somebody will filter away a visible range of light with IR filtering removed (filters will remove visible light instead of IR)
- next feature for the app could be automat swich between standard and Infra Red light spectra being active based on light intensity (e.g. below 10 lux it will go to night vision mode)
In result, there will be a camera app alloving the movie taking on suny beach and continue into dark cave without movie interruption having always bright picture

ludroid said:
My initial wish:
camera app for night vision - giving clear pics/movies in black darknes
- me as a noob - dreamer think, that the app could be written based on standard cam app with light filters altered
- now IR is filtered away to give a clear picture within standard light conditions
- what if somebody will filter away a visible range of light with IR filtering removed (filters will remove visible light instead of IR)
- next feature for the app could be automat swich between standard and Infra Red light spectra being active based on light intensity (e.g. below 10 lux it will go to night vision mode)
In result, there will be a camera app alloving the movie taking on suny beach and continue into dark cave without movie interruption having always bright picture
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The IR filtering is almost certainly done in hardware. Its called a low pass filter and would have to be physically removed to allow ir night vision.
However the last point of high dynamic range video could be done in software, but not with infrared
From something awesome

Hi , isn't it possible to write a code which can switch OFF/and ON that part of hardware?
Sent from my LG-P990 using XDA App

but for that your hardware must support it...

[Q] Panoramic photo-ICS-Exposure

When I take pictures of a sun scene with my Galaxy Nexus, using the panoramic mode, the light is not uniform so the picture looks horrible (See attached).
Is there an app which uses constant exposure, or something to fix this?
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using XDA

...nothing?

Info that might help
Hello! I haven't used the feature but I know from the making a panorama "rules" that you have to keep the same exposure in all 3 pictures that you plan to combine. There is huge difference in the amount of light(with and without sun) in the 3 pictures and on automatic mode the camera is trying to compensate in order to correctly expose the picture. Therefore you have to find the manual setting of the exposure and keep it the same for all 3 or any other number of pictures you take for the panorama.
Might help...let me know

It doesn´t work that way, it´s not a combination of three photos, the phone takes lots of them on a single movement, and then it builds the image. The problem is that the camera regulates the exposure automatically, there´s no manual mode.

[Q] What's "whiteboard"?

The camera has several settings, like HDR or Close Up - but it also has a setting called "whiteboard" - which isn't described in the manual.
Anybody know what it does?

Assume for taking photos of your office whiteboard.

So no official docs on this?

A quick search of HTC.com would have revealed this:
What different camera modes can I use?
To take pictures that are customized to a specific environment, tap the Scenes icon to choose from the different Scenes (modes) that are available. The icon is located on the bottom-left of the screen when shooting in landscape mode, and is reflective of the scene that is currently active (A will be displayed if Auto mode is active) The different scenes are:
Slow motion video – Create brilliant slow-motion video without needing to use video editing software later.
Auto – Take high quality pictures with a very fast capture speed. This is the default setting and also enables other features such as continuous shooting.
HDR – In bright light conditions, bring out the details of both highlights and shadows without washing out the image.
Panorama – Extend your shot by taking high quality panoramic pictures.
Portrait –Adds a smoothing effect to skin and bringing out the most of the human features.
Group portrait – Captures the most possible smiles and fewest blinks.
Landscape – Brings out the best features of nature’s wonders.
Whiteboard – Take the best possible pictures of highly reflective surfaces.
Close up – Also known as macro mode, this mode brings out the best colours and features of pictures taken at a close range.
Low light – Take great pictures in bad conditions, reducing overexposure caused by using a flash in these conditions (The flash is disabled while using the Low light scene).
Click to expand...
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Behold_this said:
A quick search of HTC.com would have revealed this:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Silly me looking at the manual
Thanks!

Behold_this said:
A quick search of ... would have revealed this:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually i retract the thanks - I did search and nothing came up.

Kermode said:
Actually i retract the thanks - I did search and nothing came up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How do you think I found the info for you? Btw the search of HTC.com took 30 seconds. I was over estimating by merely saying "quick search" because I figured it would take a lazy, entitled person a little longer. I guess not everyone has enough common sense to perform an internet search, though. So, how 'bout you look at the link I posted in my first reply? Better yet, maybe I should act like a spoiled child too, and retract my help.

[APPS]Top 5 Camera Apps for photography

My #1 Top Pick: Photo Wonder
Photo Wonder is a nearly perfect camera app from Baidu Inc. The color is crisp and true to your actual light without grabbing an orange or ‘dirty’ cast like other camera apps. It has a great zoom feature that allows you to get even closer than the example photo. It’s fast to load, quick to capture and has one click saving and sharing to social networks all in one screen. Photo Wonder also comes with 7 filters, editing screen with classic edits and special effects (including funny stickers, props etc), a review screen and a collage feature. Photo Wonder is like several apps in one. Down side: I’d like to see more filters, but the 7 they do offer are varied and useful such as a soft Elegant, Vintage, HDR, etc. Price: Free
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2. FxCamera
FxCamera, from ymst, offers what first appears to be a very simple interface with just 5 filters. However, it gains the number two spot in my list not only for it’s sharp focus and accurate exposure, but also because those 5 filters are just the categories for over 25 other sub-filters. The range is fantastic: from fish eye to reflection to comic book. Down side: Needs more stability during a shot to get the perfect focus. Price: Free.
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3. Cymera
Cymera, from SK Communications, comes in third with sharp focus and fast response time. It’s also another feature packed app worthy of any camera crazy shutterbug. Features include: 15 specialty filters, cropping, tilt-shift, liquify and more. It also comes equipped with anti-shake and timer settings. Down Side: Slower to start up, several second delay when saving a photo, color not as true. Price: Free
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The last two on my top 5 are apps that do not offer a ‘no filter’ setting. So these would be good for social sharing, creative posting, etc..
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4. Retro Camera
A cute app for specialized photos from developer Urbian. Retro Camera comes with 6 camera modes, each with their own set of filters: Barbl (dark washed black and whites), Orange Box (dark, scratchy vignettes), Xolaroid (Polaroid styles), Pinhole (film effects) and Hipsteroku (vintage styles, one seen above). Downsides: Slower to start up, more complicated menu, no non-filter option. Price: Free
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5. One Man With A Camera
This app comes from Wise Shark Software, makers of the popular Pudding Camera. One Man With a Camera is a multifaceted experience which also delivers with the ‘pick a camera’ style menu. Cameras (with 12 filters each) include: Lomo (seen above), Old, Underwater, Square, Polaroid, Tilt-shift, fish eye, 4-In-One and SuperSampler. OMWAC also offer something most phone photographers love: a silent shutter for inconspicuous snapshots in public or quiet settings. Another reason I like this app is that you can touch anywhere on the screen to take a photo and it automatically saves after each shot. Downsides: Most filters are very extreme. Takes time to switch from one camera style to another. Price: Free...

Hi there,
This is not the forum for this sort of post. This forum is for developers and others to post apps & games, not blog posts. In the future, please post in the appropriate forum. If this work is copied from another place and isn't indeed your original work, please credit the original author. This thread is closed.
Cheers
Magnum_Enforcer
FSM

Camera lens hardware damaged or not?

Hi. I have a problem with my S8+. U don't know if it is normal or not. Probably not (S7 photos were flawless, so S8 just can't be worse).
Take a look on this (same photo):
And
With autofocus set to upper left:
Left side is clearly blurred, right side is sharp as it should be.
PS shaking the phone with opened camera app does nothing.

I think you're asking if the periphery is out of focus?
Interesting question. Depth of field is the basic question, as I get it. What should be in focus, is based upon aperture (with correct speed: i.e. light). If I were trouble shooting an old camera, and checking the focus issue, I'd setup a field (stuff in the camera's focus range, at varying depths/distances from the camera), and take some photos in well lit conditions. It is important to know the 'depth of field' of a photo setting, so you can tell if the camera/lens and settings are all working as should be. The distance from the frontmost object, to the rear-most object still in focus, is called the 'depth of (the) field'
Check various distances/ranges from the objects, and see what comes out. If all is well there, I'd try different lighting variances, using the same distances as in step one.
Now, to test out the 'depth' portion of 'depth of field', you can set out a number of things, at varying distances, and given your 'depth of field' for your 'aperture', you should be able to see the things that are 'supposed' to be in the 'depth of field', all in focus. Remember, the smaller aperture, the smaller the hole that the light can pass through, the shorter, or less the 'depth of field', and the faster the shutter speed you can use (less light for a smaller hole). If you use a really large aperture, your camera will use a slower shutter/more light. If you go manual, which is a great way to learn how the camera 'depth of (the) field' works, you'll get a good understanding after a bit of time.
If the different distances and lighting comes out ok, both distance and lighting variances, I'd think you have a reasonable idea of the lens/camera portion is working correctly. The camera should take 'about' equally clear 'clarity', out to it's periphery.
If it's mux'ing up equally distanced (field of view) scenarios, I'd probably call Samsung. I advised well lit, so you can see what your are trying to investigate more clearly. using lighting variances would add to the 'evaluation' process, as that correlates more to a shutter speed.
You could go even further, by putting the camera into manual, and changing the aperture, test that out, and then the speed settings with varying arperture, testing that out . . .
but the basic 'auto' (auto aperture and auto speed) setting ought to work sufficient to get you the idea that yes, it is working/consistent/pretty clear at the periphery, or not. In very good cameras, with excellent lenses, the periphery is pretty spot on with the center of the lens, and that is with a great piece of glass. These cameras do a pretty good job, as well. Periphery is typically the more difficult ''depth of field'', as the lens, in some sense, is an approximation of your eye, with the higher definition in the center. Better lenses have a larger 'center' - some encompassing better to the periphery. Increasing the aperture increases the 'center' = greater 'depth', distance of the front most object that is in focus, to the objects behind a ways.
With the photos you posted up, it'd be necessary to know the aperture and speed being shot, to determine the depth of field (things that should be in focus based upon the aperture setting). Given the lighting, low/poor, a smaller aperture was likely used by the camera, with less/shorter depth of field.
Here is one example on how to calculate the 'field of view'.
http://shuttermuse.com/calculate-field-of-view-camera-lens/
There are hundreds of sites, but the calculation is basically about the same.
Also, if you could find someone near you with the same phone/camera, you could check their photos against yours, given the same parameters as above.
With your photos, above, if you were shooting (manual) with a hight speed, lets say, so less light coming into the lens, and small aperture, you'd have less 'depth of field', less things in focus. The larger the aperture, the more 'depth of field' you have. Speed needs to 'match', so you have the illumination good for the particular 'shot' you are wanting to accomplish. .So it's important to know the range, distance from the camera of the objects, to determining which ones 'should' be in focus, for the specific 'settings', i.e. aperture and speed (ISO) of film, or shutter speed, ASA..
I probably did not share this very eloquently, but I hope it gets across a few of the basic ideas?
Hope this helps.

@JeffDC -EDIT-
Are you trying to say that Galaxy S7 and S8 have different type of lens? I just tried to take a photo with autofocus set to left upper corner (landscape) and now the right side is blurred. IT never happened to me before in any phone or DSLR camera, but still, there is no such "effect" in S8 photos posted online, like https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/34287683905/in/album-72157682994456466/ - whole photo is sharp and clean.
EDIT 2, take a look on last photo in my first post. For me, there is definitely something wrong with my camera.

"Are you trying to say that Galaxy S7 and S8 have different type of lens? I just tried to take a photo with autofocus set to left upper corner (landscape) and now the right side is blurred. IT never happened to me before in any phone or DSLR camera, but still, there is no such "effect" in S8 photos posted online, like https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/34287683905/in/album-72157682994456466/ - whole photo is sharp and clean.
EDIT 2, take a look on last photo in my first post. For me, there is definitely something wrong with my camera."
I'm not saying anything about S7 or S8 differences. I was providing a method for you to test out your camera, no matter what type or from where.