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[Q] Panoramic photo-ICS-Exposure

When I take pictures of a sun scene with my Galaxy Nexus, using the panoramic mode, the light is not uniform so the picture looks horrible (See attached).
Is there an app which uses constant exposure, or something to fix this?
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using XDA

...nothing?

Info that might help
Hello! I haven't used the feature but I know from the making a panorama "rules" that you have to keep the same exposure in all 3 pictures that you plan to combine. There is huge difference in the amount of light(with and without sun) in the 3 pictures and on automatic mode the camera is trying to compensate in order to correctly expose the picture. Therefore you have to find the manual setting of the exposure and keep it the same for all 3 or any other number of pictures you take for the panorama.
Might help...let me know

It doesn´t work that way, it´s not a combination of three photos, the phone takes lots of them on a single movement, and then it builds the image. The problem is that the camera regulates the exposure automatically, there´s no manual mode.

[APP] Official LG Stock (& AOSP) Camera Update [DEODEXED][MULTI-VARIANT]

What's New:
"The app itself is more useful, time to focus is improved, low-light performance is better, etc. It's not perfect, but it's definitely an improvement. It seems like LG balanced things out. The video bit rate has been reduced, min fps increased, image quality increased, sharpness increased, audio bitrate increased, and more. Many of these changes are also in @Jishnu Sur's excellent mod, but with different values. Buy that guy a beer. He's been working on this camera for some time without even owning the device (and therefore without any of the benefit of the increased performance).
Included in the zip are a number of updated libs that deal with post-processing. If you use panorama, effects, etc. they may be improved with this. I don't use them much so I only verified they still work. Some of them (particularly some of the render script support libs), seem to be more for the stock Google gallery app and weren't even included in the VS98011A rom, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to include them in case the newer gallery app uses them." - xdabbeb
Instructions:
1) Do a backup in recovery, or backup the original files to be overwritten (check ZIP for names).
2) Flash.
AOSP
1) Flash.
NOTE: If these work on your variant and it's not on the list below, let us know so we can add it.
STOCK ROM
DOWNLOAD - Deodexed
DOWNLOAD - Deodexed (Mirror)
AOSP-based ROM (EXPERIMENTAL)
DOWNLOAD - v2
DOWNLOAD - v1
AOSP-based ROM Notes
The low-light FPS increase may not be in effect.
Burst is not working (but is available and may cause issues).
The intelligent auto does not work in low-lighting.
FC occurs when switching to front-camera, or using Panorama settings.
Confirmed Variants for Stock:
F320KE11
VS98011A (VZW)
D802A
D802B
LS980 (Sprint)
D800
Confirmed Variants for AOSP-based:
D802B
D803
D800 (AT&T)
LG Optimus 2x (P990)
Confirmed ROMs for Stock:
Stock rooted on all confirmed variants.
Malladus (VZW)
Grievous (D800)
Confirmed ROMs for AOSP-based (4.3):
AOSP
HeatshiverSX (AOKP)
OSE (VZW)
Carbon
PACman
PA
Slim ROM
CM10.2
Confirmed ROMs for AOSP-based (4.4):
PA
Gummy (VZW)
CM11
SlimKat
LucidPhusion
Create a Flashable ZIP Backup
1) If you would like to make a ZIP backup simply download the ZIP file for the update and make a copy.
2) Download a file explorer like ES Explorer or Root Explorer.
3) Open up the update ZIP and look at all the names of the folders, those will be mimicked in your phone's system folder.
4) Check the files within the folders of the update ZIP and note all the names, these will also be mimicked in your phone.
5) Use your file explorer and copy all the mimicked files in your phone to your SD card.
6) Connect your phone to your PC.
7) Move all your files to somewhere easily accessible.
8) Open (do not extract) the update ZIP copy with 7z or WinRAR.
9) Go into each folder (except META-INF) and copy over the files from your phone to the update ZIP copy.
10) Once you are done you now have a flashable ZIP to revert back to your previous state.
Camera NOT Showing in 4.3/4.4 Fix
If the AOSP camera is not appearing in the app drawer, first stop the camera that comes with the ROM, clear that camera's data, and then disable it. Reboot the phone and the AOSP camera should now be present. If it is not, then it is likely disabled. Re-enable it and that should get it to display.
Credits: xdabbeb, sefnap, Jishnu Sur

Not working on rooted international stock rom...now i lost my camera...can u pleasepost original camera so i can restore back rather than flashing all over again stock rom to have a working camera??

Tried this on the Sprint version. Didn't work. First time I installed the apks my phone did a boot loop twice and updated Android. Then I copied all the files into the other locations now my camera FC.
Sent from my LG-LS980 using xda app-developers app

edangel said:
Not working on rooted international stock rom...now i lost my camera...can u pleasepost original camera so i can restore back rather than flashing all over again stock rom to have a working camera??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you delete the .odex for two .apk?
Java

Thinking about trying this. I'll be smart and nandroid. I'll let you know in about 30 minutes. I'm att
Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk 4

I was in the process of making some flashable additions for "my" ROM so here goes a flashable update and one to revert.
It removes and adds the necessary files.
Here's a flashable restore: http://www.adrive.com/public/bZgr7H/LGCamera_Restore.zip

If you guys want to hold off for a bit, there are still some other libraries I wanted to sort through for changes. I should be able to do so tomorrow and would be happy to provide the results for everyone if there is interest. My main intention was to get the principal files to Jishnu for his analysis.

This did work for me. I over wrote all the files and changed their permissions then deleted the odex files for the gallery and camera. The video focus is not fixed so not really worth the time IMO but thanks for sharing!!
Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk 4

I'm playing with it and I've noticed no difference. I'm still getting watercolor photos.
Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

great work!thx

Looks like viewfinder now is less laggy. And at last i got the menu like in all reviews, before i had a strange Verizon moded camera without pics in menu and without Auto Flash in A.I. mode.
Anyway need to test it in low light conditions in the evening.

xdabbeb said:
If you guys want to hold off for a bit, there are still some other libraries I wanted to sort through for changes. I should be able to do so tomorrow and would be happy to provide the results for everyone if there is interest. My main intention was to get the principal files to Jishnu for his analysis.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, just wanted to know if you have any comment on this particular post someone made in another thread regarding the camera:
ZigZagJoe said:
TL;DR: Use sports mode. If desperate, try forcing ISO to 800.
Did some more testing of the camera. Sports mode does indeed bias towards faster shutter speeds - usually seems to pick ISO 400 where normal/auto would have used a shutter speed two stops slower and ISO 100. If sports mode is not cutting it, set ISO 800 and hope. If you don't get it at ISO 800, you won't get it with the default camera app. Some third party apps (I tried FV-5) allow you to specify ISO 1600, but image quality will be even worse. Really, just get a real camera out or get into better lighting.
Something else I have to mention is if you are using the modified camera app, if the guy did indeed manage to modify the actual amplification levels, what he did will reduce performance in regards to capturing moving objects as it will force a slower shutter speed - not entirely sure that guy knows what he is monkeying with.
My personal theory on the slow focus in low light is its being caused by the camera dropping below 1/30th of a second shutter speeds in favor of getting a proper exposure to be able focus precisely. If this is the case, forcing it to underexpose to get a smooth preview and faster focus could result in it being unable to focus.
There is a workaround for that, though, and focusing on moving objects: use the manual focus feature LG was so kind to include and set it to infinity focus. As long as you are about 3 feet or more from the object being photographed, everything will be in focus and there will be no shutter lag.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Who is this ZigZagJoe Elite Recognized Dev?? If he thinks I'm a noob, please fix all the problems of the camera. Seems like He made the camera for the LG G2. If you did, man you are a bad engineer! !

Heatshiver said:
and provides a simple method to turn off the camera click sound.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not working in my f320k. Camera ver. 4.3.1

javahuan said:
Have you delete the .odex for two .apk?
Java
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks...deleting the odex files made camera working..

@xdabbeb - I would definitely welcome any new libraries that would help! Feel free to tell me to add things to this thread, as it should be yours (I just got too excited when I saw it and tried it!).
 @KassaNovaKaine @Jishnu Sur @ZigZagJoe
The writer seems to be guessing, but this is my area of expertise so I can tell you that when you shoot a sports event you ALWAYS use a high shutter speed at a low aperture to capture every movement without showing blur yet having great lighting. So, obviously, Sports Mode is going to be "biased" towards high shutter speeds. Image quality never gets worse as ISO increases, noise increases as ISO increases, making the image look worse. As far as the slow lag theory, it is somewhat correct. The "lag" would refer to the drop in framerate, which looks like lag to our eyes. Test this by moving from a well-lit area to a poorly-lit area and you'll see the difference between 30/60fps and 15fps. Go back to a well-lit area and a second or two later the camera is back to 30/60fps again. 15fps always looks odd. Check out this video on YT, which compares 15fps to 30fps. I also shot video on my Galaxy Note II in a poorly-lit area, and while the lighting was horrible compared to my LG G2, the fps stayed at 30fps, explaining its smoothness. The focus issue seems to be greatly reliant on how it is setup in the software (I would say the way light is processed is a probable culprit). As noted by the commenter, setting to infinite focus gives a workaround for this but people should know that this can provide acceptable sharpness but have less items in focus. Exposure seems to have no consequences to image focus. I tested with -2.0, 0.0 & +2.0 values. I was able to focus without any issues. To that end, it seemed underexposure focused much faster, and slowed as exposure was increased (of course, at the sake of lighting). I am not sure if this what you wanted KassaNovaKaine, but I hope that helps.
NOTE: I also used "low aperture" to mean lower numbers. Normally, you would say small aperture for higher numbers and large aperture for small numbers.

Heatshiver said:
@xdabbeb - I would definitely welcome any new libraries that would help! Feel free to tell me to add things to this thread, as it should be yours (I just got too excited when I saw it and tried it!).
@KassaNovaKaine @Jishnu Sur @ZigZagJoe
The writer seems to be guessing, but this is my area of expertise so I can tell you that when you shoot a sports event you ALWAYS use a high shutter speed at a low aperture to capture every movement without showing blur yet having great lighting. So, obviously, Sports Mode is going to be "biased" towards high shutter speeds. Image quality never gets worse as ISO increases, noise increases as ISO increases, making the image look worse. As far as the slow lag theory, it is somewhat correct. The "lag" would refer to the drop in framerate, which looks like lag to our eyes. Test this by moving from a well-lit area to a poorly-lit area and you'll see the difference between 30/60fps and 15fps. Go back to a well-lit area and a second or two later the camera is back to 30/60fps again. 15fps always looks odd. Check out this video on YT, which compares 15fps to 30fps. I also shot video on my Galaxy Note II in a poorly-lit area, and while the lighting was horrible compared to my LG G2, the fps stayed at 30fps, explaining its smoothness. The focus issue seems to be greatly reliant on how it is setup in the software (I would say the way light is processed is a probable culprit). As noted by the commenter, setting to infinite focus gives a workaround for this but people should know that this can provide acceptable sharpness but have less items in focus. Exposure seems to have no consequences to image focus. I tested with -2.0, 0.0 & +2.0 values. I was able to focus without any issues. To that end, it seemed underexposure focused much faster, and slowed as exposure was increased (of course, at the sake of lighting). I am not sure if this what you wanted KassaNovaKaine, but I hope that helps.
NOTE: I also used "low aperture" to mean lower numbers. Normally, you would say small aperture for higher numbers and large aperture for small numbers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Image quality definitely gets worse as ISO increases - saturation and fine detail take a dive off a cliff, to say nothing of noise. Fine detail loss is then compounded by overzealous noise reduction. Quality loss is more noticeable in these cameras due to the tiny sensor.
Yes, it makes sense that sports mode would increase shutter speed, but without documentation to that effect, who knows what it might do? For all I knew it could just be applying filters and/or changing WB like the other modes seem to do. Not sure what landscape mode does, even. Probably modifies saturation. Exposure settings increasing and decreasing framerate would make sense as it'd be changing exposure by decreasing/increasing shutter speed. Only time you'd have things out of focus is if they are closer than 3 feet, which is the approximate hyperfocal length for these sensor/lens combinations. One of the only blessings of such a small sensor....
Misc data, the phone is able to capture at 1/10000 of a second if conditions permit - ie. taking a picture of a light bulb. Might be able to go a bit faster; some images has the speed recorded as 1/INT_MAX. 1/6s seems to be the minimum shutter speed.
If autofocus was made a bit more "brave", ie. bigger focus steps, it could help, at the expense of focus precision. Could possibly be gotten away with as focus doesn't need to be hyper precise on these things anyways. Trade offs no matter how you go though - you either get slow, but accurate AF, faster but less accurate AF, or fast AF that can't focus (minimum FPS raised). A bandaid fix would be to have the flash LED turn on and be used as an AF-assist lamp for focusing in low light always instead of only when flash is enabled. Of course, wouldn't help when the object isn't in range, but still an improvement.

@ZigZagJoe
Unfortunately, that's not how ISO works. An ISO increase increases noise, it does not desaturate or deteriorate fine detail. Quality is also not saturation. A person who knows about and performs color correction does not saturate a photo as it will hinder quality in post. That isn't to say that is what quality is. If saturation is how you like your pictures, that's fine, but that lends to a personal definition (albeit common) of quality, not a technical definition of quality. I would imagine it is pretty hard to determine detail loss if noise is covering it up to begin with? It would have to be drastically different for that to be apparent. Maybe you are mistaking compression artifacts for noise? Quality is about bitrates, the higher the bitrate the less compression artifacts, which means the better the detail. In either case, the ISO is not making it worse. So it is either bitrate variation you are talking about, or the post-processing system of the camera. The sensor is tiny, but that doesn't mean much other than more ISO noise than a larger sensor. If it did, then a 5DMKII would look leaps and bounds better than a 7D, but it doesn't. It is a matter of hardware. I can name two phones from last year with near-identical sized sensors, but their quality is vastly different.
I am not going to go over the modes as they do have purposes, but they will take a long time to explain. If you have used any basic cameras of the last decade you should know what they do. Manufacturers rarely deviate from these modes other than by name. Besides, the best photographers use the manual mode.
Exposure value would not just affect shutter speeds but ISO settings as well (as evident through simple testing). It should also affect aperture, but cameras on phones have a fixed aperture. However, while shutter speeds are initially changed on this phone, they stay constant. ISO then varies depending on the lighting situation. I took 4 videos of 2 locations, all at 30fps, two at +2 EV, and two at -2 EV, and each set in a light and near-black (dark) area. The results were that the light +2 remained at 30fps, but showed a lot of compression artifacts from a bitrate of 13+MB/s. The dark +2 remained at 30fps, but showed a lot of noise. The light -2 changed to 24fps and showed much less compression artifacts at a bitrate of 17+MB/s. The dark -2 showed almost nothing at all, but the tiny emitting lights that were shown were smooth. These were all done with this mod and no focus issues were present.
I think the true issue with auto-focus primarily stems from IOS. This is the first 13MP to have it, so it's bound to have some kinks (hence the need for an update).
The more important issue is that people all want to complain about a camera phone. And when someone like @Jishnu Sur wants to help out, people insert the comments with false or half-truth information that others take as fact. Some could argue that there is no harm if just speculating, but smarter people know better. The bottom line is that the camera is great as it is. If you want a better AF, get a real camera. But those who get a real camera, and know how to use them, already know that manual focus is the way to go.
I hope this helps clear some things up, but any further comments should be left to PM or back on the thread where this actually started as I want this to be for the updated camera. Continuing this discussion is in part the fault of @KassaNovaKaine for bringing this up instead of just using a PM, and mine for wanting to correct it.
Been testing this update, and it is a vast improvement!

I had a chance so sift through the updated libs, etc., and have made a flashable zip with all the updated files.
This probably should have its own thread, but it doesn't make sense to create more clutter. @Heatshiver, if you don't mind, could you please update the title stating that this is the F320K11E Stock Camera + libs and remove the original download (as it was incomplete) to avoid any confusion. Actually, it would probably be a good idea to quote all of this as well so people don't have to read/search through the whole thread. I don't mind that you started it, as long as you field all the support questions
I have tested this on my VS98011A and it is a marked improvement over the original. All of my comments are in relation to that version of the software/camera.
What's new:
The app itself is more useful, time to focus is improved, low-light performance is better, etc. It's not perfect, but it's definitely an improvement. It seems like LG balanced things out. The video bit rate has been reduced, min fps increased, image quality increased, sharpness increased, audio bitrate increased, and more. Many of these changes are also in @Jishnu Sur's excellent mod, but with different values. Buy that guy a beer. He's been working on this camera for some time without even owning the device (and therefore without any of the benefit of the increased performance).
Included in the zip are a number of updated libs that deal with post-processing. If you use panorama, effects, etc. they may be improved with this. I don't use them much so I only verified they still work. Some of them (particularly some of the render script support libs), seem to be more for the stock Google gallery app and weren't even included in the VS98011A rom, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to include them in case the newer gallery app uses them.
Instructions:
1) Do a nandroid, or see which files are being updated and manually back them up.
2) See #1. If you mess something up you'll wish you had.
3) Flash away. I tested this with TWRP on a VS98011A and it works perfectly.
4) If you have another variant, let us know here whether or not it works.
F320K11E Camera Update
*I will also send the files along to Jishnu separately for inclusion/analysis in his mod.

So, loss of detail. For an example, have a look at this comparison. Less severe in larger sensors (IE. DSLRs) and more severe in smaller sensors, you know, what phones use. To what degree detail is lost depends on the severity of processing. Noise obscuring detail = detail loss. NR processing smoothing the image = more detail loss. Safe to say, higher ISO, more detail lost.
Saturation - essentially, color purity. I'm not referring to manipulation of saturation. A washed out image lacks saturation. Yes, it is moronic to equate saturation = quality. But, my personal preference doesn't enter into this at all. Is color information lost in an ISO 3200 image when compared an ISO 100 image? Yes. To what degree depends on the sensor and processing performed. Most dedicated cameras keep it fairly well in check, but phones tend to have serious issues with saturation at higher ISOs (also, Foveon sensors).
It does depend on the sensor pedigree, though - for instance, nikon's midrange APS-C sensors handle their noise a lot better than canon's 18mp-based offerings. So for phones to have different image quality is not unexpected.
Uh, JPG artifacting is way different than noise, and we were not even talking about compression in the first place?
Modes - don't care what the other ones are for, I was simply mentioning their presence. Don't ever use them on my real camera, but don't exactly have a choice in regards to phone. I was unable to get any sort of significant difference out of sports mode when I first tried it.... rest of the modes seem to be purely post processing related, for all I know LG made sports mode the same way. Later, checking EXIF info, I did see it changing shutter speed and ISO, favoring faster shutter speeds, which is the expected behavior, it's just not got much leeway for adjustment.
If ISO isn't already maxed (you know, like it is in low-light situations), yes, exposure control could be adjusting ISO too. But in the context of preview in low light, the exposure control directly affects the preview FPS, so it can only be adjusting shutter speed as ISO is already maxed. Would expect a similar effect on video but haven't tested it. Autofocus speed is directly linked to preview FPS, which is in turn limited by shutter speed (currently).

[GUIDE] Howto increase photo quality on Galaxy S7 & S8

Hey guys!
You may ask yourself at some point how the hell can it be that Galaxy S7/S7edge/S8 camera is so highly praised? If you are into photography and look closer at the taken pics you will most likely be disappointed.
Let's go through the critical reviews found by google:
Code:
[COLOR="Red"][B]#[/B] Oversharpened photos
[B]#[/B] Overexposed photos
[B]#[/B] Oversaturated photos
[B]#[/B] Too much noise reduction[/COLOR]
Well, you are right, at some point. Let's take a look at my sample pic:
100% crop, unedited, S7edge, stockROM, stock camera, stock settings=auto mode
Ah yes, yes, I see it: oversharpened check, too much noise reduction check, oversaturated che... wait! no. After trying to get the best out of my S7edge camera, I think the main problem is by default samsung adds too much contrast. Here is how to 'fix' the camera:
Important:
Code:
[COLOR="Red"][B]#[/B] These settings are made for S7 Flat and S7 Edge models but most likely will improve your S8/S8+ camera too. Exynos only!
[B]#[/B] Some settings require root access. Do it at your own Risk! Your warranty is void.
[B]#[/B] I'm not responsible for damage to your equipment.
[B]#[/B] Photo 'quality' is a very subjective, some people prefer keeping natural grain, some prefer cristal clear photos.
[B]#[/B] Sample photos are taken with two Galaxy S7 edge (one stock, one modified), both isocell sensor, at the same time to have the same lightning conditions.[/COLOR]
First, how it could be:
100% crop, unedited, S7edge, stockROM, Zero Camera Mod, Pro mode custom settings
Wait! 'Looks like ****, too' you think? Then this thread is not for you. Look closer and you will see this is a lot more 'natural'. The lower contrast will reveal more details, the lower sharpness won't look that 'plastic', the lower denoise will work well with it. Btw if you think the metal pipe looks now blueish... it has a blue tint in reality!
Second another example:
Before:
1/10s f/1.7 ISO320
After:
1/10s f/1.7 ISO640
Well, yeah there is a lot of noise now, but there is a lot of detail too, at this point you can reduce noise in photoshop if you like, but you cannot reveal lost details. Again, the lower contrast let's us recognize the shape of this subwoofer. You may ask, why higher ISO? I will explain later.
Third the settings:
First screenshot shows app by zeroprobe. Default settings are '5' for 'edge' and '5' for 'denoise'. If we lower each value, we lower sharpness(='edge') and lower denoising. You can try out other values (1-10) but the effect will be drastic and don't look good anymore. This app requires root and you can buy it here for S7/S7edge and here for S8.
Fourth the final touchup
... and the promised explanation for higher ISO and using auto flash: Use a polarization filter! No, not things like that:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
This will work but to be honest it adds bulk, looks ugly and you have to always carry with you. So instead use this:
Yeah, just look at ebay (or elsewhere) for some polarization filter film manufacturer. Important, don' buy anything thicker than 0,2 millimeter because this will let too little light in and buy a self-adhesive one. Normally there will be some offer kind of 100x100x0,2 millimeter film.
Yes, you cannot adjust the filter if it is 'glued' to camera lens (easily to peel off if your are not satisfied), but you don't have to! This is not our goal (we have adjusted saturation already):
Instead this is your gain:
before and after (less reflections=more details)
You can now use flash because it won't introduce ugly glare (like on someones forehead):
before and after using flash without other light source
Another notice: Every 90 degree you rotate the film before attachement, other light reflecions will be filtered (0° and 180° is the same of course). Find the one that bother you the most and apply that way (just use a tripod while testing). The polarization film has to be applied on the led flash too but 90° off the direction you chose for the camera. That way flash reflections will be filtered.
This film, even it's only 0,2 millimeter thick will reduce the light coming in and therefore the software raises ISO and will make use of flash earlier but that's good now
So , have fun!

Stock camera, stock rom

Looks really good. Please provide additional infos: Samsung or sony sensor? ISO? Shutterspeed? Edited in any way?

S7 edge exynos. Camera on auto mode and absolutely no edit. All my pics are great for me. Here's another one.

It is good that you are satisfied and not so demanding. To clarify things, your last pic for example is blurry and there are many S7 /S8 camera reviews that confirm my listing of flaws. No need to doubt my efforts by only posting pics in auto mode.

From were i can download this software

arshad.ma147 said:
From were i can download this software
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Read the guide again and you will see that there are clickable texts like this which will open the link

An interesting idea with CPL filter. Won't such one go off after some time (or rotate)?
Are there more examples of CPL on\off at darker conditions, in-door, party ect?

koboltzz said:
It is good that you are satisfied and not so demanding. To clarify things, your last pic for example is blurry and there are many S7 /S8 camera reviews that confirm my listing of flaws. No need to doubt my efforts by only posting pics in auto mode.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Tell me what you think about this one ?
I'm totally noob about photography in general that's why i always use auto mode

Burgscheinkerkdeiktraast said:
An interesting idea with CPL filter. Won't such one go off after some time (or rotate)?
Are there more examples of CPL on\off at darker conditions, in-door, party ect?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, since it's self-adhesive like every scotch tape. The mentioned second galaxy S7 (without any modification) in my guide belongs to my wife. After releasing this guide I apply the same filter on her S7. Therefore I am not able to produce before-after-shots. This 'idea' is maybe new to smartphones, but many professional photografers use flash light and lens with CPL filter, this is why wou will find example pics about filtering light reflections all over the web.
scribbclubber said:
Tell me what you think about this one ?
I'm totally noob about photography in general that's why i always use auto mode
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Then just shot one photo in auto mode and the same scenery in 'pro' mode again with my settings to have a comparision. If you are a noob then leave the app by zeroprobe aside and just try 'pro' mode (follow the guide and click on the pictures). Your last pic looks good enough (since S7 camera hardware is superb) but at same time heavily postprocessed by samsung which leads to a overall artificially look (too much contrast, too sharp).

Okey. Is it known more - less how much ISO higher is with film on? Is it drastic change?

Burgscheinkerkdeiktraast said:
Okey. Is it known more - less how much ISO higher is with film on? Is it drastic change?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, in comparision one level higher (for example without polarization filter ISO 160, with polarization fiter ISO 200 =one step)

Come somebody please suggest me some polarization fiter and where to by in Germany?
Thank you!

DirkStorck said:
Come somebody please suggest me some polarization fiter and where to by in Germany?
Thank you!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No problem, as I wrote, simply search in ebay. Result is here.

koboltzz said:
No problem, as I wrote, simply search in ebay. Result is here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you!

Hi koboltzz, thanks for your post!
I also experienced that, especially in darker conditions, the standard image processing of my S7 makes it look a bit blurry and poor in details. I will definitely check out the zero camera mod. About the polarization filter... Isn't it a bit of a problem when switching between portrait and landscape mode? Each angle the picture is recorded in will filter different light. So, I imagine I would be stuck in using e.g. landscape mode because I like the filter effect and when using portrait my pictures are darker (or noisier because higher ISO) without the desired effect?
Attaching the filter on the flash with 90 degree rotation basically adds up the filters in both directions, doesn't it? This sounds like a great strategy.
Your example pictures with the tiles clearly show how all these reflections are eliminated. But the picture gets pretty noise. I guess it is the combination of higher ISO, and less post processing? This starts looking a bit too noisy for my taste.

I know what you mean about switching between portrait and landscape mode but I can calm you down Since the filter effect on daylight applies only to light reflections in a specific angle to the lens, there exist no problems taking pictures from people or buildings in portrait or landscape. Anyway the best way is to leave the resolution at 12 MP 4:3 therefore you have always a almost quadratic picture which you can crop 16:9 afterwards. So you can decide which is the 'right' rotation before taking the picture and won't have any disadvantage.
Keep in mind, 'darker' is visually not what the filter is doing and the effect on iso is negliable since it's only one step higher (the camera app rounds, means if shimmering between ISO 613 and ISO 635 the user still sees "A 640"). Attaching the filter on the flash will turn the direction of emitted lightwave by 90° and that way the filter on the lens is able to filter the reflections (which are again turned by 90°).
SeltsamerHerr said:
But the picture gets pretty noise. I guess it is the combination of higher ISO, and less post processing?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope...well.... yes, the tiles picture without reflections is noisier because the camera was already modified as described in first post therefore I've reduced noisereduction from 5 to 4

Brilliant app! (Use low Edge/DeNoise settings.)
Just rooted and installed zeroprobe's app. It's unbelievable—congratulations! The smeared noise-reduction was driving me crazy; I'd say that my S7 Edge can now hold its own with some of my reasonably expensive M43 and APS cameras. Advice: set the Edge and DeNoise at fairly low numbers: I use 3 and 2. Then, if needs be, sharpen and adjust noise in Lightroom or Photoshop. If you want to get quite nerdy about this: apply deconvolution sharpening in Lightroom (with sharpening detail set to 100, or close); then process the image in Silver Efex Pro: you'll get a stunning monochrome file.
Sharpening can go higher; I wouldn't set the DeNoise any higher than 2, or you start losing detail.
From what I can tell, the same sharpness and noise settings are applied in both Auto and Pro mode. I get great results with either. Thus far I haven't fooled around with any of the other parameters—I think it's probably unnecessary, as long as you're willing to do a bit of processing after the fact.

How do I take non focused pictures?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/EKvnpp9ohD4zT45DA
I have a problem with both stock cam and Gcam, both pictures in the link are taken extremely close to the "first obstacle", a flower in one and plants in the other. In the flowers picture everything else gets blurred, in the plants picture where there is no clear focus object everything looks crispy.
I have noticed this with a lot of my photos, if there is something stealing the attention the camera blurs everything else too much, I want everything in my pictures to always be crispy ... how do I do that?
I just always use normal mode without touching anything else, don´t know much about photography, I just want the blurriness gone.

@AurioDK just use tap to focus, when you are taking a photo, tap the part of the screen you want to focus. Works for the front camera too if you take some pics there

manor7777 said:
@AurioDK just use tap to focus, when you are taking a photo, tap the part of the screen you want to focus. Works for the front camera too if you take some pics there
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But I don´t want to focus on anything usually, I just want the picture to be all crispy like the "plant" one. Should I just click on the sky or some object in the distance? The funny thing is that I don´t have this problem with indoor pictures, only outdoors.

AurioDK said:
But I don´t want to focus on anything usually, I just want the picture to be all crispy like the "plant" one. Should I just click on the sky or some object in the distance?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can use Pro mode (swipe up at bottom of camera app). It will take longer to get a shot, but if you were using a dslr I would expect the same. Its the 3rd option in pro mode, a focus wheel with very nice haptic feedback.

AurioDK said:
But I don´t want to focus on anything usually, I just want the picture to be all crispy like the "plant" one. Should I just click on the sky or some object in the distance? The funny thing is that I don´t have this problem with indoor pictures, only outdoors.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You've got the terms reversed somewhat. What you want is everything in focus, not 'non focused'. If something is not in focus, it is blurry. You seem to be replacing the word "focus" with "crispy" which is just making up words and confusing the issue. I read the thread title to mean you want everything in the photo to be blurry (which is what it is saying in reality) which would just make it look like the camera is broken!
If your distance to the subject is very small, and the background is very far, you aren't going to be able to get both in focus. It's just the physics of how lenses/cameras work. If you change the focus point to a distant object, the subject (near object) will be blurry. You can't focus on both, if they are too far apart.
The reason you don't see this problem indoors, is due to the fact that the background is much closer. It's the distance between the subject and the background (particular outdoors, where the background tends to be much farther away) that is causing the background to blur. Find an indoor setting, with the same distance (between subject and background) and I guarantee that you will have the same result (blurry background).
The closer the objects in the photo are to each other (distance to the camera) the easier it is to get them both in focus. You can decrease the background blur, by increasing your distance to the subject (near object) but you may lose the intended composition. Using the "Pro" mode as another suggested, is also a good idea. Use a smaller aperture (higher f-stop number) and minimal optical zoom. Since both aperture and focal length (optical zoom) both affect the depth of field (which in turn determines how blurry the background will be). In fact, I can see from the photo metadata in your gallery, that the photos are taken at f/1.65, which is a very large aperture, and maximizes background blur. Force the f-stop to a larger value in "Pro" mode, and you will likely see the background blur decrease. Although distance to subject, and distance of the background are still major factors.
Also keeping in mind that changing the f-stop will also affect the shutter speed and ISO. They are all inter-dependent, and known as the "exposure triangle". So you may need to manipulate the ISO or shutter speed to achieve the desired results.
Note: Made some major edits to the post. I noticed the pics in the gallery are taken at f/1.65 (presumably on automatic settings), which may be a major factor in the background blur. Somewhat changed some of my thinking on how to get the results that are desired by the user.

AurioDK said:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/EKvnpp9ohD4zT45DA
I just always use normal mode without touching anything else, don´t know much about photography, I just want the blurriness gone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I little reading on how depth of field works may answer your question and also help you take the pictures with desired results. There is an easy read at:
https://digital-photography-school.com/understanding-depth-field-beginners/

redpoint73 said:
You've got the terms reversed somewhat. What you want is everything in focus, not 'non focused'. If something is not in focus, it is blurry. You seem to be replacing the word "focus" with "crispy" which is just making up words and confusing the issue. I read the thread title to mean you want everything in the photo to be blurry (which is what it is saying in reality) which would just make it look like the camera is broken!
If your distance to the subject is very small, and the background is very far, you aren't going to be able to get both in focus. It's just the physics of how lenses/cameras work. If you change the focus point to a distant object, the subject (near object) will be blurry. You can't focus on both, if they are too far apart.
The reason you don't see this problem indoors, is due to the fact that the background is much closer. It's the distance between the subject and the background (particular outdoors, where the background tends to be much farther away) that is causing the background to blur. Find an indoor setting, with the same distance (between subject and background) and I guarantee that you will have the same result (blurry background).
The closer the objects in the photo are to each other (distance to the camera) the easier it is to get them both in focus. You can decrease the background blur, by increasing your distance to the subject (near object) but you may lose the intended composition. Using the "Pro" mode as another suggested, is also a good idea. Use a smaller aperture (higher f-stop number) and minimal optical zoom. Since both aperture and focal length (optical zoom) both affect the depth of field (which in turn determines how blurry the background will be). In fact, I can see from the photo metadata in your gallery, that the photos are taken at f/1.65, which is a very large aperture, and maximizes background blur. Force the f-stop to a larger value in "Pro" mode, and you will likely see the background blur decrease. Although distance to subject, and distance of the background are still major factors.
Also keeping in mind that changing the f-stop will also affect the shutter speed and ISO. They are all inter-dependent, and known as the "exposure triangle". So you may need to manipulate the ISO or shutter speed to achieve the desired results.
Note: Made some major edits to the post. I noticed the pics in the gallery are taken at f/1.65 (presumably on automatic settings), which may be a major factor in the background blur. Somewhat changed some of my thinking on how to get the results that are desired by the user.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I found out how, your post gave me the answer. It´s as you said, I need to keep a certain distance to the closest object and the margin between an "all focus" and "object focus only" picture is very small. I played a bit with a coke bottle on a lawn to get a feeling and I think I now have it. I finally managed to get the pictures I wanted, it´s just a matter of keeping the closest object a bit further away. Thank you.

Sample photos - original resolution - All Lenses + RAW

Hi All
I'm away the mo, but here are some samples I've taken so far. I've posted these up as it's hard to find original res pics. There are tons of reviews with reduced size images which is about as useful as a chocolate teapot.
I'm looking for a good scene so I can take the same shot with every lens so we can do more detailed comparisons, but this is a starter:
edit: imgur worked fine at first, but now it's reduced the resolution of the files! I've uploaded them to mega.nz here:
https://mega.nz/#F!EZMxxQbJ!lAIm7Z4JIda3wN62LmSW7w
The above link contains all the images, so don't bother with the imgur links below.
At mega.nz, right-click on an image you want and choose download to get the file in full resolution. Don't bother with Preview as this is low res.
I'm not too impressed with the ultrawide image as if you zoom in to a face, the image is very soft as far as looking out of focus. For Macro shots, I found it best to go into camera settings and turn on Focus & Shoot. If you don't it's hard to get the macro camera to focus just where you want it.
The 108MP image looks quite good and you can zoom in a long way.
As soon as I see a good shot, I'll take that photo with all lenses and do some night shots.
Cheers
Steve

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deleted.

How do I download the photos in full resolution?

deleted.

The imgur links above have been deleted, just go to the 1st post and get the images from mega.nz
Cheers
Steve

Next up is a comparison between Open Camera and the stock cam, including RAW files where possible. There's a readme file uploaded.
https://mega.nz/#F!hZUkFKgJ!8P0msMZIag0drQstokvVTA

Good shots Steve

Cheers I ran outside in between rain storms

I've been doing some comparisons between crops of @TF1920's current version of opencam mods and the stock cam. The reference is the brickwork on the end of a house in the middle of the picture. The comparisons have been uploaded to mega.nz with the link below. All of the comparison images file names begin with the word Comparison and each pair of images are annotated with Opencam or note10 and the lens used.
There is also a comparison of stock camera 27mp images in jpeg and DNG format.
https://mega.nz/#F!hZUkFKgJ!8P0msMZIag0drQstokvVTA
So, here's the results:
Compare_OC_Note10_2xTele_12mp
Note 10 crop has much more detail than opencam. I tried sharpening the opencam image, but it didn't help. In my view the note10 image is over-sharpened.
Compare_OC_Note10_5xTele_8mp
The Note10 image has more detail than the opencam image. Not a great deal, but sharper.
Compare_OC_Note10_U_Wide
These images seem to me, to be identical.
Compare_OC_Note10_WIDE_108mp
There's quite a difference between these 2 images. Note10 seems to have a lot more detail. I tried sharpening the opencam image but it didn't help. Hmm....
Compare_Note10_Wide_jpeg_dng_27mp
I found this interesting. The RAW image was much softer than the jpeg so no surprises there. However, the grass and stones looked like grass and stones in the RAW image. In the jpeg, they had suffered from over sharpening and had clear 'oil painting' effect. This gives me hope that I can use a RAW file and produce an image that is a better compromise than the over sharpened jpegs spat out by most manufacturers.
Raw Files
It's worth noting that although the RAW files uploaded to mega.nz look very washed out with a green tint, if you view them in irfanview they look much better.
Cheers
Steve

Good Job Steve, at 108Mpx try OpenCam with manual focus and compare with stock, seems to improve a lot the detail even gets better than stock, but it is tricky to use since you need to zoom in first at 10X focus and revert to no zoom

One mode I'm really interested in is 12MP on the 108MP camera, if possible this would be 9-to-1 pixel binning (the same mode that Samsung is planning in the S11) and maybe provide great low-light performance. Another poster tells me that 12MP is not available on the main cam in the Xiaomi app, but is available on Open Camera.
Could someone test this? The results might be impressive

revthanki said:
One mode I'm really interested in is 12MP on the 108MP camera, if possible this would be 9-to-1 pixel binning (the same mode that Samsung is planning in the S11) and maybe provide great low-light performance. Another poster tells me that 12MP is not available on the main cam in the Xiaomi app, but is available on Open Camera.
Could someone test this? The results might be impressive
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I have the modded opencam @TF1920 has developed. If you check out this page:
https://forum.xda-developers.com/mi-note-10/help/camera2-api-t4011239/page4
He's posted up a screenshot of all of the available resolutions in open camera and a couple are very close to 12MP. Over the next couple of days, I'll take a shot of each resolution and maybe you could feed back your results?
Happy Xmas all.....
Steve

Correction, the screen shot I mentioned is not the full range of resolutions in @TF1920's opencam. It's quite a long list so I tried to do a screen capture with scroll but it finishes before the end of the page. I've taken a number of screenshots of the opencam Wide resolutions and glued them all together for your viewing pleasure. It's attached to this post.
Also up are 4 shots taken outside my front door this morning at around 7am. In the UK, it's pretty dark and it's worth noting that to my eye, the sky was black and I could just make out the tree opposite so the results are very sensitive. jpeg quality was set to 100%.
The files are here:
https://mega.nz/#F!0Bsi2CKI!54RSNIlwDDEtoag7JQpYcw
I must say I can't see any difference in sensitivity between the 108MP and 12ish MP photos. Maybe they are just crops?
I also checked the ISO range in opencam by setting to different resolutions and manually setting the ISO. The result was the same for all resolutions I tried, offering a maximum ISO of 3200.
Cheers

Steve did you try manual focus instead of auto?

Hi no I didn't but I'll try again tomorrow at 7am and post the results up

Hi @TF1920 I got up late today as my wife forced me to drink whiskey last night
I was thinking - was your comment about the night shots or the daytime comparison shots I took? I can repeat either or both no problem.
Cheers

picitup said:
Hi @TF1920 I got up late today as my wife forced me to drink whiskey last night
I was thinking - was your comment about the night shots or the daytime comparison shots I took? I can repeat either or both no problem.
Cheers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To any of them, I noticed that autofocus is not working very well some times, with manual focus I always get much better results (first zoom in max > set focus > zoom out all) then shot.