Hey guys!
You may ask yourself at some point how the hell can it be that Galaxy S7/S7edge/S8 camera is so highly praised? If you are into photography and look closer at the taken pics you will most likely be disappointed.
Let's go through the critical reviews found by google:
Code:
[COLOR="Red"][B]#[/B] Oversharpened photos
[B]#[/B] Overexposed photos
[B]#[/B] Oversaturated photos
[B]#[/B] Too much noise reduction[/COLOR]
Well, you are right, at some point. Let's take a look at my sample pic:
100% crop, unedited, S7edge, stockROM, stock camera, stock settings=auto mode
Ah yes, yes, I see it: oversharpened check, too much noise reduction check, oversaturated che... wait! no. After trying to get the best out of my S7edge camera, I think the main problem is by default samsung adds too much contrast. Here is how to 'fix' the camera:
Important:
Code:
[COLOR="Red"][B]#[/B] These settings are made for S7 Flat and S7 Edge models but most likely will improve your S8/S8+ camera too. Exynos only!
[B]#[/B] Some settings require root access. Do it at your own Risk! Your warranty is void.
[B]#[/B] I'm not responsible for damage to your equipment.
[B]#[/B] Photo 'quality' is a very subjective, some people prefer keeping natural grain, some prefer cristal clear photos.
[B]#[/B] Sample photos are taken with two Galaxy S7 edge (one stock, one modified), both isocell sensor, at the same time to have the same lightning conditions.[/COLOR]
First, how it could be:
100% crop, unedited, S7edge, stockROM, Zero Camera Mod, Pro mode custom settings
Wait! 'Looks like ****, too' you think? Then this thread is not for you. Look closer and you will see this is a lot more 'natural'. The lower contrast will reveal more details, the lower sharpness won't look that 'plastic', the lower denoise will work well with it. Btw if you think the metal pipe looks now blueish... it has a blue tint in reality!
Second another example:
Before:
1/10s f/1.7 ISO320
After:
1/10s f/1.7 ISO640
Well, yeah there is a lot of noise now, but there is a lot of detail too, at this point you can reduce noise in photoshop if you like, but you cannot reveal lost details. Again, the lower contrast let's us recognize the shape of this subwoofer. You may ask, why higher ISO? I will explain later.
Third the settings:
First screenshot shows app by zeroprobe. Default settings are '5' for 'edge' and '5' for 'denoise'. If we lower each value, we lower sharpness(='edge') and lower denoising. You can try out other values (1-10) but the effect will be drastic and don't look good anymore. This app requires root and you can buy it here for S7/S7edge and here for S8.
Fourth the final touchup
... and the promised explanation for higher ISO and using auto flash: Use a polarization filter! No, not things like that:
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This will work but to be honest it adds bulk, looks ugly and you have to always carry with you. So instead use this:
Yeah, just look at ebay (or elsewhere) for some polarization filter film manufacturer. Important, don' buy anything thicker than 0,2 millimeter because this will let too little light in and buy a self-adhesive one. Normally there will be some offer kind of 100x100x0,2 millimeter film.
Yes, you cannot adjust the filter if it is 'glued' to camera lens (easily to peel off if your are not satisfied), but you don't have to! This is not our goal (we have adjusted saturation already):
Instead this is your gain:
before and after (less reflections=more details)
You can now use flash because it won't introduce ugly glare (like on someones forehead):
before and after using flash without other light source
Another notice: Every 90 degree you rotate the film before attachement, other light reflecions will be filtered (0° and 180° is the same of course). Find the one that bother you the most and apply that way (just use a tripod while testing). The polarization film has to be applied on the led flash too but 90° off the direction you chose for the camera. That way flash reflections will be filtered.
This film, even it's only 0,2 millimeter thick will reduce the light coming in and therefore the software raises ISO and will make use of flash earlier but that's good now
So , have fun!
Stock camera, stock rom
Looks really good. Please provide additional infos: Samsung or sony sensor? ISO? Shutterspeed? Edited in any way?
S7 edge exynos. Camera on auto mode and absolutely no edit. All my pics are great for me. Here's another one.
It is good that you are satisfied and not so demanding. To clarify things, your last pic for example is blurry and there are many S7 /S8 camera reviews that confirm my listing of flaws. No need to doubt my efforts by only posting pics in auto mode.
From were i can download this software
arshad.ma147 said:
From were i can download this software
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Read the guide again and you will see that there are clickable texts like this which will open the link
An interesting idea with CPL filter. Won't such one go off after some time (or rotate)?
Are there more examples of CPL on\off at darker conditions, in-door, party ect?
koboltzz said:
It is good that you are satisfied and not so demanding. To clarify things, your last pic for example is blurry and there are many S7 /S8 camera reviews that confirm my listing of flaws. No need to doubt my efforts by only posting pics in auto mode.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Tell me what you think about this one ?
I'm totally noob about photography in general that's why i always use auto mode
Burgscheinkerkdeiktraast said:
An interesting idea with CPL filter. Won't such one go off after some time (or rotate)?
Are there more examples of CPL on\off at darker conditions, in-door, party ect?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, since it's self-adhesive like every scotch tape. The mentioned second galaxy S7 (without any modification) in my guide belongs to my wife. After releasing this guide I apply the same filter on her S7. Therefore I am not able to produce before-after-shots. This 'idea' is maybe new to smartphones, but many professional photografers use flash light and lens with CPL filter, this is why wou will find example pics about filtering light reflections all over the web.
scribbclubber said:
Tell me what you think about this one ?
I'm totally noob about photography in general that's why i always use auto mode
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Then just shot one photo in auto mode and the same scenery in 'pro' mode again with my settings to have a comparision. If you are a noob then leave the app by zeroprobe aside and just try 'pro' mode (follow the guide and click on the pictures). Your last pic looks good enough (since S7 camera hardware is superb) but at same time heavily postprocessed by samsung which leads to a overall artificially look (too much contrast, too sharp).
Okey. Is it known more - less how much ISO higher is with film on? Is it drastic change?
Burgscheinkerkdeiktraast said:
Okey. Is it known more - less how much ISO higher is with film on? Is it drastic change?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, in comparision one level higher (for example without polarization filter ISO 160, with polarization fiter ISO 200 =one step)
Come somebody please suggest me some polarization fiter and where to by in Germany?
Thank you!
DirkStorck said:
Come somebody please suggest me some polarization fiter and where to by in Germany?
Thank you!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No problem, as I wrote, simply search in ebay. Result is here.
koboltzz said:
No problem, as I wrote, simply search in ebay. Result is here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you!
Hi koboltzz, thanks for your post!
I also experienced that, especially in darker conditions, the standard image processing of my S7 makes it look a bit blurry and poor in details. I will definitely check out the zero camera mod. About the polarization filter... Isn't it a bit of a problem when switching between portrait and landscape mode? Each angle the picture is recorded in will filter different light. So, I imagine I would be stuck in using e.g. landscape mode because I like the filter effect and when using portrait my pictures are darker (or noisier because higher ISO) without the desired effect?
Attaching the filter on the flash with 90 degree rotation basically adds up the filters in both directions, doesn't it? This sounds like a great strategy.
Your example pictures with the tiles clearly show how all these reflections are eliminated. But the picture gets pretty noise. I guess it is the combination of higher ISO, and less post processing? This starts looking a bit too noisy for my taste.
I know what you mean about switching between portrait and landscape mode but I can calm you down Since the filter effect on daylight applies only to light reflections in a specific angle to the lens, there exist no problems taking pictures from people or buildings in portrait or landscape. Anyway the best way is to leave the resolution at 12 MP 4:3 therefore you have always a almost quadratic picture which you can crop 16:9 afterwards. So you can decide which is the 'right' rotation before taking the picture and won't have any disadvantage.
Keep in mind, 'darker' is visually not what the filter is doing and the effect on iso is negliable since it's only one step higher (the camera app rounds, means if shimmering between ISO 613 and ISO 635 the user still sees "A 640"). Attaching the filter on the flash will turn the direction of emitted lightwave by 90° and that way the filter on the lens is able to filter the reflections (which are again turned by 90°).
SeltsamerHerr said:
But the picture gets pretty noise. I guess it is the combination of higher ISO, and less post processing?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope...well.... yes, the tiles picture without reflections is noisier because the camera was already modified as described in first post therefore I've reduced noisereduction from 5 to 4
Brilliant app! (Use low Edge/DeNoise settings.)
Just rooted and installed zeroprobe's app. It's unbelievable—congratulations! The smeared noise-reduction was driving me crazy; I'd say that my S7 Edge can now hold its own with some of my reasonably expensive M43 and APS cameras. Advice: set the Edge and DeNoise at fairly low numbers: I use 3 and 2. Then, if needs be, sharpen and adjust noise in Lightroom or Photoshop. If you want to get quite nerdy about this: apply deconvolution sharpening in Lightroom (with sharpening detail set to 100, or close); then process the image in Silver Efex Pro: you'll get a stunning monochrome file.
Sharpening can go higher; I wouldn't set the DeNoise any higher than 2, or you start losing detail.
From what I can tell, the same sharpness and noise settings are applied in both Auto and Pro mode. I get great results with either. Thus far I haven't fooled around with any of the other parameters—I think it's probably unnecessary, as long as you're willing to do a bit of processing after the fact.
Related
Smart selfie is a FREE voice-guided photography app that use facial recognition to help you take better selfies with the back camera of your phone by giving voice prompts on how to adjust the phone, such as moving it left, right, away, up, etc so that photo participants are well centered in your photos.
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Latest Version is now 1.14. Some pretty exciting features added to make the app easier to use.
1.1.4
*Measure beta (Now gives the size of the movement for up, down, left, right.) *Measure beta now supports Eyeliner mode.
*New Camera settings added - Picture Quality and Picture Size.
*Crash fixes and optimization when taking photos.
*Moved to a new UI. Presets, Detection settings and Camera settings have been moved into the Action Bar and appear as icons.
*Minor bug fixes.
*Redid some voice guidance recordings.
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Normally, to use the better quality and higher resolution camera on the back of your phone to take selfies requires a lot guesswork as you cannot see front screen of your camera
You also need to clumsily click the screen to take the actual photo.
Smart selfie can identify one or multiple faces, then direct the user to move the phone position so that is is in the optimal position. It will then automatically take the photo once your camera is in position.
Another great advantage is not all android smart phones have a front camera so this app would be perfect for owners of such phones to take selfies.
Current selfie apps in the android market simply switch to the lower quality front camera as a default or they might have features that will take photos when your whistle or provide voice commands. This is a rather cumbersome way to take selfies. Some may have a library of cool photos filters and effects, but these do not actually assist in taking the actual photos.
At the time of writing ICS (4.0) is required for full functionality. With 4.0 you can automatically take photos and share them online via social networking sites or pass the photo to other apps for further enhancements.
The core functions will run at 3.2 or higher. The app will lack the ability to share photos if your OS is less than 4.0
For those running and OS between 2.2 and 3.1. You will get the full facial detection and voice guidance feature, however the photo must be taken manually once the camera is in position. (This may be changed in the future.)
Limitations of this version:
*5MP max image taken on back Camera (if your phone is capable of higher resolutions photos will be taken at 5MP)
*Detect Up to 4 people.
Requirements
Min Requirements CPU: 800mhz OS: 2.3+
Recommended Requirements CPU:Quad Core 1Ghz+ OS: 4.0+
Other Requirements: You device needs to have a back camera!!!!!!
///////////////////////////////////////////////
That aside at the moment the UI is a train-wreck, the core functionality seems to work well. Feel free to download the app, take a few selfies and provide feedback to see how it works on different devices.
In additional i would like you know how you feel about:
1) The voice guidance quality? This was taken from several recordings done on an android phone in relatively noisy conditions, I had all sort of background noises like light aeroplanes, garbage trucks, bird tweeting, clothes dryer, strong wind, traffic, and some paper rustling.
2) Do you think it app takes too long to take a selfie?
3) The limitations are they ok? This app allows better quality selfies even on new devices like Samsung galaxy 5, which sports a 2MP front camera.
4) Any other feedback/comments/tips?
Smart selfie Free is available on the google play store the package is
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.aidedesk.smartselfie
Happy Snapping !!!!
@hotspot_volcano link?
Sent from Galaxy Note 3 SM-N9005 Stock: 4.4.2 Rooted
the settings should stay between taking multiple pictures & there should be some notification once the picture got taken/
Wait a min
Do you mean a front camera or what? (actually a back camera?)
Sorry but i didnt get the concept...
starcallr said:
the settings should stay between taking multiple pictures & there should be some notification once the picture got taken/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1
It did say "say cheese" and I got a picture, but no click, no "how lovely!" or other indication.
This thing is really ingenious, quite nifty, and did work even on my 600mhz single-core-clunker. Voice instructions were on the quiet side (could explain why some users missed them).
The UI could be more modern, but so simple and adequate as-is. But do make it persistent. And the option, at least, to automatically find the up-to four faces without need to ask, might be nice as well.
Selfies with only a rear camera? Got it :good:
You got a very interesting app. But it needs some pruning though. Can you put it in video mode, and user just angles the phone for a selfie, and your app takes a snap automatically when the faces are focussed. Since its a selfie, you know that the face has to be like 30% to 70% of screen area. User opens app, points the back camera at themselves, and tilts the phone in a few angles. You select the best shot automatically. Its just an idea. You would know better
additional suggestions,
apart from wat these people are saying as a suggestions, i have some of my own. but i tried this app and i find this great..only 2 aditional things:
voice guidance should be louder..and (if possible), have proper diction. i have trouble recognizing the voice guide on my phone because volume is a bit low. i tried to use an earphone while testing to take a selfie..and i had trouble when the command says "left" because the female voice's diction sounds like "lift". atleast put an option to adjust voice guide volume..or let it be controllable with volume buttons (you know which of the 2 is the best).
This app does ake decent shots after guiding you. But, please add adequate lighting sensor, or at least the ability for the voice guide to tell you to turn on flash if the lighting condition is low..something like that. i hope you get the idea.
that's all..this is an innovtive app..but as always, there's always room for improvement.
Awesome App
This app is awesome. It even works on 600 MHz phone. And selfies are great. But there should be a click sound to notify user that the picture has been taken. and moreover there should be option to delete the pic directly. Good job @hotspot_volcano :good:
Hope to see changes in next version.
Kill it! Kill it with fire!
Thanks for the feedback from starcallr and Dovidhalevi. I've implemented some of them.
Just released v1.08 after having a lot of fun getting Android v23 installed, took several hours installing and uninstalling after that to get things to compile once i figured out the missing files.
Anyway from the feedback I've made some changes.
*New detection feature: Added Face Zoom (Allows close-up, or further-away selfies.)
*Ability to change volume more easily.
*All settings remembered from previous session.
*Popup reminder showing settings shown at the start of each photo session.
*More audible photo capture sound. (The click is 10X louder now.) But I might replace the audio click with some voice prompt so it would be 3X louder still without sounding out-of place.
#to do list (over the next week)
*Unified settings. All settings appear together in one Alert Dialog. (15% done) Attached a quick layout.. tell me what you think.
*Flash available for low lighting (as for detection it may need a low light facial detection feature which may i may only put in the paid version)
*A delete feature to delete the just taken photo.
*Auto-detect orientation (25% done)
*Fix up app crash after you have successfully taken a photo on your default camera app when you try and return to Smart Selfie on Android OS 2.2 - 3.1
#planned tidbits (over then next year)
*5 or so detection features(paid version probably), most of these will need OpenCV. (The very first version of this app was in OpenCV + NDK)
*Augment Reality features, maybe hats, sunglasses, hair and stuff that would be visible on the screen and automatically placed on detected faces, and would appear in the final photo when taken
=============================
I have tested earlier versions in public places it and the audio is already boosted up ~15db on average. I did have a silly idea of a vibrate morse code which could be used in extremely noisy places. Something like a short + short vibrate for left, short + long vibrate for right. The vibrate wont affect detection as won't be detecting when the vibrations are occurring. But not going to give it a go for now. Flashlight style Flash to give directions might also work, if it doesn't give people epilepsy.
Use of a Bluetooth headset might also be possible for very noisy places.
The UI is old fashion, i've been away from Android a while so Holo Light is giving me serious grief. Thinking about using Action Bar to replace the missing menu and avoid the LGPLv3 HoloEverywhere library. When i do set minimum APK.. the layouts go half sized. Anyway I'd like to concentrate on features at this stage.
There are apps like mine on Windows phone and IOS and I'd like to be the most comprehensive selfie app out there.
As for not requiring to input the right amount of people at the start. The app at the moment will center the detected faces the ask the user to move the camera away to a certain point in hope that the missing people will appear in the screen eventually? If they don't then you get stuck in a loop. But i will consider an auto (at your own risk setting)
WAY better than the previous version/
Amazing App!!
Amazing app!! Lovin it so much!! but ui need to be updated.. Other than that it's a great app for selfie!!!! Really a great job!! @hotspot_volcano
chitrank said:
Amazing app!! Lovin it so much!! but ui need to be updated.. Other than that it's a great app for selfie!!!! Really a great job!! @hotspot_volcano
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks guys the next version is going to be much better. I'm actually quite excited about the next version.
Having spent more time thinking about what to put in the next version, it will have:
*Beginners/Casual Mode (Balance Sensitivity). If you don't mind your face not being perfectly centered in the photo.You can take photos quickly with little hassle. Detected faces will always appear within the photo with no parts cropped off at the side or top of the photo no matter what setting sensitivity is selected.
You can crank it up or down depending on your selfie taking skills and you/your groups patience in taking the perfect selfie.
*A slight change to the voice guidance algorithm. Hopefully this will stop the left right loop if you start with the phone too close to your face. For best results at the moment always start with the phone about 1/2 meter from your face.
*Fix any settings that don't appear to be saved properly. (I'm getting some issues with Preview Size changes sometimes not saving as expected?)
*Delete photo feature option. (Complete, but just don't ask when Windows 7 RTPing you see the deleted ghost files on 4.4 builds?)
*Unified settings. (getting there)
*Increased volume? Most recordings was set to 90% loudness. I'll experimental with increasing them to 100%. Anyway for noisy places I highly recommended using a portable Bluetooth speaker ones that are small enough to be slipped into your pocket.
My flagship test device is the Moto G which is one of the loudest android phones in the market. With speakers pumping out ~87 dB. Most of the commands was fairly audible even in packed and noisy food-court using the default speakers found on back of the phone.
Thanks for the great feedback guys.. Made a few changes in the most recent update. Plus a few more sites decided to showcase my app taking my app over 1000 downloads, and getting myself a small amount of people to test my app to make sure it works and all.
I'm planning a media launch soon as the app is nearly getting there. Have to rewrite my promotional material which was based on the very first version.
The paid version is no where is sight. The free version features that need to be sorted and taking up a lot of time.
The next update is going to be fairly exciting. These are the planned changes.
*An amazing useability feature that makes taking selfies even easier. It will be available on the free version because it would be probably make the free version cripple-wear if i just added it to the paid version. :angel:
*Auto-detect orientation (Yes this got pushed back.. working on it)
*Flash available for low lighting (Yes this got pushed back.. working on it)
*Attempt to fix submitted bug reports.
*UI (Holo light UI - no guarantees which means probably not :silly
*Continue to update the website so people can just use google translate to read the HELP and TUTORIAL notes in their preferred language.
/////////////////////////////////////////////////////
binu.udaya;54334510. Can you put it in video mode said:
I'm not too familiar with the hardware side of android as far as video mode is concerned, but i was always under the impression you would get lower resolutions under video mode. Moving the camera while taking a photo will cause motion blur.
Well there are already apps out there that do this.I though they just took 3 shots in quick succession. I could probably add such a feature, but i think the photo is pretty accurate. Especially on the higher settings of Face Balance.
Just to give you idea how accurate the balance is. Just say are taking a portrait photo. Your 4.5" screen displays has a preview image that is 5cm across on the screen. If the gap between the face and the left-side of the picture is 1.5cm then the right-hand side gap between the face and the right-side of the picture can not have a difference more than 0.225cm.
I don't know how many people can get a selfie balanced to 1/4 of a cm by looking at their screen. I'm more surprised if they can get that accuracy without looking it and not get any voice guidance.
FYI the v1.08 fixed settings would have required a difference less than 0.3cm based on the above criteria. So if you managed to get a few snaps off at on the v1.08 thats how well balanced your photos are.
That is why i added the Balance sensitivity, the crazy accuracy is not required in all situations. Takes a few dozen shots before you built up the experience to take photos at that level.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1.1.3 is an amazing new update!!!!!! Manage to squeeze in a bunch of features.
Finally manage to roll out the amazing useability feature Measure. Which provides a size of the movement in addition to the direction. Unfortunately i didn't really have to the time to extend the feature to up and down.
*Presets now available. Pick and choose different presets such as using a selfie stick; propping your camera against say a book then you walk away, photos are taken automatically when your in position; taking photos from different angles such as the Baby face selfie where the camera angle gives the illusion of bigger eyes.
*Eyeliner. Allows the vertical alignment of eyes in your photo. Gives a much larger variety of selfies you can take now.
*Voice Guidance speed is now adjustable. Set it faster if your more experience in using the app or lower if your new or English is not your first language.
*Website updated. All help information is available online and translatable into your preferred language. Link added to Playstore and accessible in app.
Whats in the next version?
*Crash bug fixed hopefully. Be focusing on why there are crashes when photos are taken. Made several changes already.
*Continue to work on Measure (UP,DOWN).. will also look at Measure( closer and away)
*Pickable Photo capture resolution.
*Pickable white Balance Mode (Maybe)
*Holo Light GUI (I'll take a look.. lol)
If you haven't already please try out Smart Selfie v1.1.3 and tell me what you think now?
v 1.14 took a bit longer than my general 7 day for an update but its finally here. Holo-Layout. Some people have been asking for it since v1.03
Forcing low resolution setting on high resolution devices was a MAJOR HEADACHE. Its still has a minor bug with half-sized screen randomly appearing but that's been around since v1.03. While i just moved to Holo layout, I don't want to know anything about Android L.
Lets take a look at our planned updates for v1.1.4 and what was done.
*Continue to work on Measure (UP,DOWN).. Measure Closer and Away (No plans for now)
*Pickable Photo capture resolution.
*Holo Light GUI (I'll take a look.. lol) - Seems Action tool bar works well for all versions of supported android.
*Crash bug fixed hopefully. Be focusing on why there are crashes when photos are taken. Made several changes already. Unfortunately once i started the UI I stopped working on crash fixes so more to come.
v 1.1.5 planned features
*Pickable white Balance Mode (soon i hope)
*A Custom Share Intent. Will be better than the stock one which may have problems with setting a default ShareIntent.
*Revisit and review code that may cause crashing when taking photos.
*In-app volume that does not change your current volume setting (ie not get blasted by the noise from other apps you run after smart selfie)
*General house-tidying of text strings in the app. One step towards the NOT planned in-app multi-language support.
*Creation of shared libraries. So that the paid version can re-branched.
*Small fixes to the UI where deemed necessary.
*Some sort of auto-orientation feature.
EDIT: Managed to get my hands on a LG P500 512 MB RAM, 3.2MP, 600mhz. Updated the rom to 4.04 onto it. Manage to take a photo without crashing though it took a while to show the photo.
The background wallpaper kind of leaks through into the app but i think its just the Rom.
If anyone have a device with 256mb ram try testing it and see if it causes any crashing (due to the lack of memory)
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Open Camera is an Open Source camera app for Android that I've been working on.
Google Play: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.sourceforge.opencamera
Or install APK directly from: https://sourceforge.net/projects/opencamera/files/
Open Camera is also available on F-Droid.
Homepage: http://opencamera.org.uk/
Code: https://sourceforge.net/p/opencamera/code/
Features include:
- Option to auto-level using accelerometer so pictures are perfectly level.
- All the usual options like zoom, flash, focus modes (including a "manual" mode to only focus on touch), focus/metering areas, exposure lock, scene modes, color effects, white balance, ISO, exposure compensation, video recording.
- Options for timer and auto-repeated photo taking.
- Configurable volume keys (take picture, zoom, or change exposure compensation).
- Optional geotagging, including compass direction (GPSImgDirection, GPSImgDirectionRef).
- Option to optimise UI for left and right-handed users.
v1.47.3:
Auto-level feature (from v1.48):
I want to make Open Camera better, so bug reports and feature suggestions are most welcome (either email mark dot harman dot apps at gmail dot com, PM, at https://sourceforge.net/p/opencamera/discussion/ , or leaving a comment here).
Also a request for help: one of the challenges I've had is the wide variety of different cameras or camera drivers on different devices, and sometimes bugs happen that I can't reproduce on my devices. In particular I've had various reports of problems on Cyanogenmod. If any Android developers out there are willing to help out with investigating issues on any devices/platforms you encounter problems with, this will help Open Camera become a better camera app and I would greatly appreciate it Or simply sending me a logcat may help.
I have tried this before. It's an excellent app that takes great pictures.
I'm already using snap camera so have no need for it, but it is better than pretty much all the other apps in terms of picture quality except for a couple.
Im not too big on comparing the quality of vids and pics between camera apps, to my experience its usually around the same. However, what matters is functionality and I must say this app is really nice. Buttons with quick access to the functions, etc. Especially "exposure lock" i like!
However, it seriously falls behind on the visual part. I know that in a sense it doesn't matter but it's always a nice way to finish off a good app.
May I suggest something in style with the Samsung S5 camera app? (http://i.imgur.com/iy5w369.jpg)
Functions on the left side for easy access with left hand and then shutter button + video/photo mode button on the right.
Another little thing, how about a seperate shortcut for videomode ?
I'd suggest a feature that I only saw in snap camera and Moto X camera.
the touch to capture.
instead of only focusing on touch, focus and take the picture
Thanks for the comments, some great suggestions.
* I like the icons being along the top myself, but I'll add an option to have them go down the side for people who prefer that.
* An option for touch to capture sounds a good idea too.
Kocayine said:
Another little thing, how about a seperate shortcut for videomode ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can I clarify what you mean by this - there's an icon to switch between photo and video, or do you mean to change video resolution? Or something else?
mdwh said:
Can I clarify what you mean by this - there's an icon to switch between photo and video, or do you mean to change video resolution? Or something else?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, sorry, I was being unclear. I just mean in the launcher. A camera shortcut and a video shortcut.
Kocayine said:
Yeah, sorry, I was being unclear. I just mean in the launcher. A camera shortcut and a video shortcut.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That makes sense - have added it to the TODO.
Hi,
I just installing your camera and my first impression is :good:. It can detect wide resolution for my camera (16:9) where other competitor can't . For now I found bug related to save folder location, each time I open this setting app always tell path not found until I take one photo. Maybe because folder don't exists then app throw an error.
Anyway I didn't explore much this app but here some suggestion:
quick button to change resolution settings
quick button to change camera mode
Maybe HDR mode either software or hardware
Other suggestion will be added later :good:
hadi_rena said:
For now I found bug related to save folder location, each time I open this setting app always tell path not found until I take one photo. Maybe because folder don't exists then app throw an error.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oops yes, that's a bug in the new file chooser, I'll get a fix out for that.
I want to have more accessibility to other options, though need to think about how to do this (more icons means more clutter / running out of space) - possibly having a fully customised GUI, or a swipe down for more options, or other ideas are welcome.
Hardware HDR should be supported if it's offered as a scene mode by the device; doing it in software is something I may do in future.
mdwh said:
Oops yes, that's a bug in the new file chooser, I'll get a fix out for that.
I want to have more accessibility to other options, though need to think about how to do this (more icons means more clutter / running out of space) - possibly having a fully customised GUI, or a swipe down for more options, or other ideas are welcome.
Hardware HDR should be supported if it's offered as a scene mode by the device; doing it in software is something I may do in future.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I vote for swipe gesture to open more options. We can have 4 directions for swiping
Thanks for pointing out HDR mode in scene settings
Half-press to focus of the hardware button continuously triggers focus, which doesn't steadily lock.
Xperia S with 4.4 aosp.
very nice app.ty for alternate download link from playstore.(we dont all use gapps).
peace
err on the side of kindness
Really loving all the app so far, here's a few ideas/suggestions
Double tap anywhere/press and hold to auto focus + take picture (this is by far the feature i miss the most from my windows phone life, maybe im not the only one)
Option to mute annoying sounds
more and more obvious GUI feedback (like for when switching from picture<>video)
circle inside the glass square doesn't look that well imhO the start recording/take picture should lose that visible square
angle line looks like an odd part of 3x3 grid (maybe its supose to be like that? i dunno, i know zero of pro-photo taking)
as a side note, at least on my device, the zoom scale looks inverted (at 0x bar it's blue, at 4x it's invisible)
i must say i really really love the option to controle the exposure from the volume menu, great idea
great work!
mdwh said:
Oops yes, that's a bug in the new file chooser, I'll get a fix out for that.
I want to have more accessibility to other options, though need to think about how to do this (more icons means more clutter / running out of space) - possibly having a fully customised GUI, or a swipe down for more options, or other ideas are welcome.
Hardware HDR should be supported if it's offered as a scene mode by the device; doing it in software is something I may do in future.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello, been using this for a few months, its one of the better camera apps, but could do with a few improvements (sorry to sound negative, I do like it!)
I d like:
An ISO shortcut, or option to add it, so you dont have to delve into the menus
Touch to focus and take a picture all in one, like Snap camera (already been suggested twice, so this seems the most popular request so far !)
Option to remove zoom slider - hardly any phone camera has optical zoom and digital zoom is 100% useless so I dont want it cluttering up the screen.
On my find 5 the camera button (the one you hit to take a shot) is surrounded by a square and it looks awful, so an option to change the style of this button would be nice (circle, square, pic of a camera, red, blue, white etc. I notice the screen shot in the first post there is no square though ?
How about a maximum no of icons you can have on the screen based on the size of the device, then user can choose what icons to have up to the maximum that can fit, so the amount of clutter is down to the user and the number of icons down to whats physically possible ?
I do like this app, but it is slow to take pictures, especially when stabilised, Snap camera isnt this slow whether youre using the stabilise feature or not, would be nice if it was quicker.
Was using the app with CM and did have some problems, using OmniROM now and dont seem to have them. Used to use Snap mostly, but that seems to have bugs on both CM and Omni, would like to remove it and 100% replace it with this.
A question about the "auto-stabilise."
Stabilization (as in Optical Image Stabilization, or OIS) generally refers to a camera shake reducing feature. Is that what this does? Your description sounds more like auto-leveling than the traditional meaning of stabilization.
I honestly have only one issue with this camera, it's damn ugly. Other than that it works beautifully on my S3 running CM11. You are using standard controls, so themes kinda mess with your work. I would suggest spending some time on a look and feel that would make your app look more modern.
What about porting it for gingerbread? (2.3+)
I really like this! I have an older armv6 version of focal but UI is very difficult to navigate. This one fills the bill.
UI suggestions:
*Universal choice of <-|+> or slider. Really do not need both visible. Do not take space for both or unselected alternative. It is those sliders that make the iPhone camera a joy to use.
*Place all those potentially per-picture options up front rather than in properties (or set their defaults in properties): ASA, white-balance, color-effect, et al. Done this way on focal and cm11s camera.
*Focus region is settable on cm11s camera (in properties but would rather see up front as well).
*Option for powerbutton capture (focus and shoot).
*Option for normal camera-icon capture (focus and shoot). Previously requested here. I am kind of confused as to what is going on right now and can be surprised to see "taking picture."
*Generally, unclutter everything which is going on the screen on top of the view. Do not need all those numbers and boxes except where directly functional such as focus region.
Might be interesting and make for quicker shoots: continuous auto focus--more likely picture is ready when I press the button. I do not think anybody is doing this at present (but nobody else is fudging angles and such either!).
Thanks for this great job, could you include the exposure time regulation? ideally to photograph lightnings.
Best regards
Enviado desde mi Nexus 4 mediante Tapatalk
Cool app from what I've seen in two minutes of tinkering or so.
I was wondering if it'd be possible to set 60 and 50 Hz anti-flickering from the app? I'm travelling in a 50Hz power region and some museum lighting gave me weird banding effects that I suspect was caused by this.
Hi. I have a problem with my S8+. U don't know if it is normal or not. Probably not (S7 photos were flawless, so S8 just can't be worse).
Take a look on this (same photo):
And
With autofocus set to upper left:
Left side is clearly blurred, right side is sharp as it should be.
PS shaking the phone with opened camera app does nothing.
I think you're asking if the periphery is out of focus?
Interesting question. Depth of field is the basic question, as I get it. What should be in focus, is based upon aperture (with correct speed: i.e. light). If I were trouble shooting an old camera, and checking the focus issue, I'd setup a field (stuff in the camera's focus range, at varying depths/distances from the camera), and take some photos in well lit conditions. It is important to know the 'depth of field' of a photo setting, so you can tell if the camera/lens and settings are all working as should be. The distance from the frontmost object, to the rear-most object still in focus, is called the 'depth of (the) field'
Check various distances/ranges from the objects, and see what comes out. If all is well there, I'd try different lighting variances, using the same distances as in step one.
Now, to test out the 'depth' portion of 'depth of field', you can set out a number of things, at varying distances, and given your 'depth of field' for your 'aperture', you should be able to see the things that are 'supposed' to be in the 'depth of field', all in focus. Remember, the smaller aperture, the smaller the hole that the light can pass through, the shorter, or less the 'depth of field', and the faster the shutter speed you can use (less light for a smaller hole). If you use a really large aperture, your camera will use a slower shutter/more light. If you go manual, which is a great way to learn how the camera 'depth of (the) field' works, you'll get a good understanding after a bit of time.
If the different distances and lighting comes out ok, both distance and lighting variances, I'd think you have a reasonable idea of the lens/camera portion is working correctly. The camera should take 'about' equally clear 'clarity', out to it's periphery.
If it's mux'ing up equally distanced (field of view) scenarios, I'd probably call Samsung. I advised well lit, so you can see what your are trying to investigate more clearly. using lighting variances would add to the 'evaluation' process, as that correlates more to a shutter speed.
You could go even further, by putting the camera into manual, and changing the aperture, test that out, and then the speed settings with varying arperture, testing that out . . .
but the basic 'auto' (auto aperture and auto speed) setting ought to work sufficient to get you the idea that yes, it is working/consistent/pretty clear at the periphery, or not. In very good cameras, with excellent lenses, the periphery is pretty spot on with the center of the lens, and that is with a great piece of glass. These cameras do a pretty good job, as well. Periphery is typically the more difficult ''depth of field'', as the lens, in some sense, is an approximation of your eye, with the higher definition in the center. Better lenses have a larger 'center' - some encompassing better to the periphery. Increasing the aperture increases the 'center' = greater 'depth', distance of the front most object that is in focus, to the objects behind a ways.
With the photos you posted up, it'd be necessary to know the aperture and speed being shot, to determine the depth of field (things that should be in focus based upon the aperture setting). Given the lighting, low/poor, a smaller aperture was likely used by the camera, with less/shorter depth of field.
Here is one example on how to calculate the 'field of view'.
http://shuttermuse.com/calculate-field-of-view-camera-lens/
There are hundreds of sites, but the calculation is basically about the same.
Also, if you could find someone near you with the same phone/camera, you could check their photos against yours, given the same parameters as above.
With your photos, above, if you were shooting (manual) with a hight speed, lets say, so less light coming into the lens, and small aperture, you'd have less 'depth of field', less things in focus. The larger the aperture, the more 'depth of field' you have. Speed needs to 'match', so you have the illumination good for the particular 'shot' you are wanting to accomplish. .So it's important to know the range, distance from the camera of the objects, to determining which ones 'should' be in focus, for the specific 'settings', i.e. aperture and speed (ISO) of film, or shutter speed, ASA..
I probably did not share this very eloquently, but I hope it gets across a few of the basic ideas?
Hope this helps.
@JeffDC -EDIT-
Are you trying to say that Galaxy S7 and S8 have different type of lens? I just tried to take a photo with autofocus set to left upper corner (landscape) and now the right side is blurred. IT never happened to me before in any phone or DSLR camera, but still, there is no such "effect" in S8 photos posted online, like https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/34287683905/in/album-72157682994456466/ - whole photo is sharp and clean.
EDIT 2, take a look on last photo in my first post. For me, there is definitely something wrong with my camera.
"Are you trying to say that Galaxy S7 and S8 have different type of lens? I just tried to take a photo with autofocus set to left upper corner (landscape) and now the right side is blurred. IT never happened to me before in any phone or DSLR camera, but still, there is no such "effect" in S8 photos posted online, like https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/34287683905/in/album-72157682994456466/ - whole photo is sharp and clean.
EDIT 2, take a look on last photo in my first post. For me, there is definitely something wrong with my camera."
I'm not saying anything about S7 or S8 differences. I was providing a method for you to test out your camera, no matter what type or from where.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/EKvnpp9ohD4zT45DA
I have a problem with both stock cam and Gcam, both pictures in the link are taken extremely close to the "first obstacle", a flower in one and plants in the other. In the flowers picture everything else gets blurred, in the plants picture where there is no clear focus object everything looks crispy.
I have noticed this with a lot of my photos, if there is something stealing the attention the camera blurs everything else too much, I want everything in my pictures to always be crispy ... how do I do that?
I just always use normal mode without touching anything else, don´t know much about photography, I just want the blurriness gone.
@AurioDK just use tap to focus, when you are taking a photo, tap the part of the screen you want to focus. Works for the front camera too if you take some pics there
manor7777 said:
@AurioDK just use tap to focus, when you are taking a photo, tap the part of the screen you want to focus. Works for the front camera too if you take some pics there
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But I don´t want to focus on anything usually, I just want the picture to be all crispy like the "plant" one. Should I just click on the sky or some object in the distance? The funny thing is that I don´t have this problem with indoor pictures, only outdoors.
AurioDK said:
But I don´t want to focus on anything usually, I just want the picture to be all crispy like the "plant" one. Should I just click on the sky or some object in the distance?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can use Pro mode (swipe up at bottom of camera app). It will take longer to get a shot, but if you were using a dslr I would expect the same. Its the 3rd option in pro mode, a focus wheel with very nice haptic feedback.
AurioDK said:
But I don´t want to focus on anything usually, I just want the picture to be all crispy like the "plant" one. Should I just click on the sky or some object in the distance? The funny thing is that I don´t have this problem with indoor pictures, only outdoors.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You've got the terms reversed somewhat. What you want is everything in focus, not 'non focused'. If something is not in focus, it is blurry. You seem to be replacing the word "focus" with "crispy" which is just making up words and confusing the issue. I read the thread title to mean you want everything in the photo to be blurry (which is what it is saying in reality) which would just make it look like the camera is broken!
If your distance to the subject is very small, and the background is very far, you aren't going to be able to get both in focus. It's just the physics of how lenses/cameras work. If you change the focus point to a distant object, the subject (near object) will be blurry. You can't focus on both, if they are too far apart.
The reason you don't see this problem indoors, is due to the fact that the background is much closer. It's the distance between the subject and the background (particular outdoors, where the background tends to be much farther away) that is causing the background to blur. Find an indoor setting, with the same distance (between subject and background) and I guarantee that you will have the same result (blurry background).
The closer the objects in the photo are to each other (distance to the camera) the easier it is to get them both in focus. You can decrease the background blur, by increasing your distance to the subject (near object) but you may lose the intended composition. Using the "Pro" mode as another suggested, is also a good idea. Use a smaller aperture (higher f-stop number) and minimal optical zoom. Since both aperture and focal length (optical zoom) both affect the depth of field (which in turn determines how blurry the background will be). In fact, I can see from the photo metadata in your gallery, that the photos are taken at f/1.65, which is a very large aperture, and maximizes background blur. Force the f-stop to a larger value in "Pro" mode, and you will likely see the background blur decrease. Although distance to subject, and distance of the background are still major factors.
Also keeping in mind that changing the f-stop will also affect the shutter speed and ISO. They are all inter-dependent, and known as the "exposure triangle". So you may need to manipulate the ISO or shutter speed to achieve the desired results.
Note: Made some major edits to the post. I noticed the pics in the gallery are taken at f/1.65 (presumably on automatic settings), which may be a major factor in the background blur. Somewhat changed some of my thinking on how to get the results that are desired by the user.
AurioDK said:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/EKvnpp9ohD4zT45DA
I just always use normal mode without touching anything else, don´t know much about photography, I just want the blurriness gone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I little reading on how depth of field works may answer your question and also help you take the pictures with desired results. There is an easy read at:
https://digital-photography-school.com/understanding-depth-field-beginners/
redpoint73 said:
You've got the terms reversed somewhat. What you want is everything in focus, not 'non focused'. If something is not in focus, it is blurry. You seem to be replacing the word "focus" with "crispy" which is just making up words and confusing the issue. I read the thread title to mean you want everything in the photo to be blurry (which is what it is saying in reality) which would just make it look like the camera is broken!
If your distance to the subject is very small, and the background is very far, you aren't going to be able to get both in focus. It's just the physics of how lenses/cameras work. If you change the focus point to a distant object, the subject (near object) will be blurry. You can't focus on both, if they are too far apart.
The reason you don't see this problem indoors, is due to the fact that the background is much closer. It's the distance between the subject and the background (particular outdoors, where the background tends to be much farther away) that is causing the background to blur. Find an indoor setting, with the same distance (between subject and background) and I guarantee that you will have the same result (blurry background).
The closer the objects in the photo are to each other (distance to the camera) the easier it is to get them both in focus. You can decrease the background blur, by increasing your distance to the subject (near object) but you may lose the intended composition. Using the "Pro" mode as another suggested, is also a good idea. Use a smaller aperture (higher f-stop number) and minimal optical zoom. Since both aperture and focal length (optical zoom) both affect the depth of field (which in turn determines how blurry the background will be). In fact, I can see from the photo metadata in your gallery, that the photos are taken at f/1.65, which is a very large aperture, and maximizes background blur. Force the f-stop to a larger value in "Pro" mode, and you will likely see the background blur decrease. Although distance to subject, and distance of the background are still major factors.
Also keeping in mind that changing the f-stop will also affect the shutter speed and ISO. They are all inter-dependent, and known as the "exposure triangle". So you may need to manipulate the ISO or shutter speed to achieve the desired results.
Note: Made some major edits to the post. I noticed the pics in the gallery are taken at f/1.65 (presumably on automatic settings), which may be a major factor in the background blur. Somewhat changed some of my thinking on how to get the results that are desired by the user.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I found out how, your post gave me the answer. It´s as you said, I need to keep a certain distance to the closest object and the margin between an "all focus" and "object focus only" picture is very small. I played a bit with a coke bottle on a lawn to get a feeling and I think I now have it. I finally managed to get the pictures I wanted, it´s just a matter of keeping the closest object a bit further away. Thank you.
So im in the boat with the people that complain about the washed out colours, i come from a redmagic 7 pro and the colours are so much better out of the box than the pixel.
Looking around some people seemingly discovered that might be related to a HDR bug, as when playing hdr videos on YT the colours pop up nicely.
Well, i've been playing around and i think i discovered a bug that fixes this (at least i think).
You need CF.lumen (we are not going to use it as intended) and going to the accessibility colour options.
-First open CF.lumen and configure the timezone etc
-Open the master filter mode and select custom but dont change anything and save it.
-Without closing CF.lumen, go to Accessibility options > Color and motion > Color correction.
-Here, tap on Use color correction. You should imediatly notice that the actual color correction is not being applied but the colors now pop up more.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
(Notice that the feature is enabled but the colours did not change)
Now the screen has a lot nicer colors and the weird dullness/yellow tint is gone.
I adjusted the RGB values a tiny bit to my likeness, but honestly i dont think its necessary.
This is clearly some weird interaction between CF.lumen and the color correction filters and i dont know how stable this is or if its going to cause any issues down the line.
Seeing how the color mode dissapears when a color correction filter is applied and that the screen looks the same as when a HDR YT video is played, I believe HDR is disabled for those corrections, having CF.lumen enabled does not allow the color hue to change but HDR is disabled anyway.
There might be a terminal command or something less finicky to disable HDR, but i did not find anything with such aparent improvement as this weird workaround.
Please let me know if you managed to make it work and if you know what might be really happening there.
(Those steps require root and im clearly exploiting a weird interaction between a root app and system settings, so this might be dangerous and i'm not responsible to any damage on your devices resulting of attempting this)
I would return it. You simply can't accurately calibrate it by eye even at one refresh rate frequency. Brightness and frequency variables make it completely impossible to do. If the color calibration is off even a little, gamma calibration is exponentially skewed.
blackhawk said:
I would return it. You simply can't accurately calibrate it by eye even at one refresh rate frequency. Brightness and frequency variables make it completely impossible to do. If the color calibration is off even a little, gamma calibration is exponentially skewed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For a software issue?
I have 3 more oled devices and with this bug and while playing HDR content the colours are extremely close across, so i dont see how replacing hardware would solve the HDR software issue...
Lucas VT said:
For a software issue?
I have 3 more oled devices and with this bug and while playing HDR content the colours are extremely close across, so i dont see how replacing hardware would solve the HDR software issue...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is it software or firmware? The color calibration needs to be accurate from the factory. If it's a 3rd party player that's the issue, than that's the problem if the calibration is otherwise accurate.
Either way you can't dial it in by eye even with excellent color perception to the degree of calibration it needs to be at.
blackhawk said:
Is it software or firmware? The color calibration needs to be accurate from the factory. If it's a 3rd party player that's the issue, than that's the problem if the calibration is otherwise accurate.
Either way you can't dial it in by eye even with excellent color perception to the degree of calibration it needs to be at.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I dont know, but if i cant see the difference with my naked eye thenwhy bother?
I'm happy how the display looks now, so im not going to return it, i see basically no difference with my other oled devices.
If you're rooted, you can use Color Changer Lite or Pro (from Omega Centauri Software in the Play Store) to adjust colors as you would like. It works great.
0oWow said:
If you're rooted, you can use Color Changer Lite or Pro (from Omega Centauri Software in the Play Store) to adjust colors as you would like. It works great.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, CF.lumen does the same, the thing is that no matter how much you try to adjust it it never looks good, unless you use this bug to disable(?) HDR.
Lucas VT said:
Hey, CF.lumen does the same, the thing is that no matter how much you try to adjust it it never looks good, unless you use this bug to disable(?) HDR.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually I think CF.lumen just applies a color filter overlay. Color Changer actually changes the RGB, Hue, and Saturation parameters. As far as the HDR goes, I wouldn't know. I don't own the P7P, but I'm considering getting it.
0oWow said:
Actually I think CF.lumen just applies a color filter overlay. Color Changer actually changes the RGB, Hue, and Saturation parameters. As far as the HDR goes, I wouldn't know. I don't own the P7P, but I'm considering getting it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, CF.lumen does not apply overlays. Also, if it only did that, i dont think the bug i found would work at all.
Lucas VT said:
No, CF.lumen does not apply overlays. Also, if it only did that, i dont think the bug i found would work
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lucas VT said:
No, CF.lumen does not apply overlays.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
According to the Github page it does. Even the Play Store app page shows screenshots of overlayed images. That is also what "color correction" does.
0oWow said:
According to the Github page it does. Even the Play Store app page shows screenshots of overlayed images. That is also what "color correction" does.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
[APP][5.0+][2020.12.22] CF.lumen v3.74
About CF.lumen adapts the colors on your Android device based on the position of the sun, or your custom configuration. When using the default settings, your display will get a warmer tint (lower color temperature) when the sun is down, vastly...
forum.xda-developers.com
Only the rootless driver is an overlay.
Lucas VT said:
[APP][5.0+][2020.12.22] CF.lumen v3.74
About CF.lumen adapts the colors on your Android device based on the position of the sun, or your custom configuration. When using the default settings, your display will get a warmer tint (lower color temperature) when the sun is down, vastly...
forum.xda-developers.com
Only the rootless driver is an overlay.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is what I sort of suspected, but I thought that at one time I had tried rooted CF and it didn't do much better. If I do get the P7P, I will definitely be checking out the rooted version of CF to confirm or deny that suspicion. Thanks.
0oWow said:
If you're rooted, you can use Color Changer Lite or Pro (from Omega Centauri Software in the Play Store) to adjust colors as you would like. It works great.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great app! Thanks for the tip!
Interesting, CF.lumen was crashing whenever I tried to enter Master Filter Mode. I will try Colour Changer
blackhawk said:
I would return it. You simply can't accurately calibrate it by eye even at one refresh rate frequency. Brightness and frequency variables make it completely impossible to do. If the color calibration is off even a little, gamma calibration is exponentially skewed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
GIF avatars are lame.
nomfway said:
Interesting, CF.lumen was crashing whenever I tried to enter Master Filter Mode. I will try Colour Changer
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This happens becasue you did not set up the location, just above the color master mode.
Lucas VT said:
This happens becasue you did not set up the location, just above the color master mode.
Click to expand...
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Ohhhh, yup thanks so much!!
I have a P7pro and I notice when I tilt the display (vertically), that the whites become almost pink. Can this be corrected or is it just a problem of the poor quality of the display?
That sounds like a screen defect. It happens sometimes with OLED screens. P7P does not have the best screen, but mine didn't do that noticeably.
however I contacted assistance and they told me that it is normal for it to change color when the angle of the display changes (I replied that I haven't seen displays like this even in €300 cell phones...then he closed my call face chat )..
but I feel teased .. other than display top