Related
The camera has several settings, like HDR or Close Up - but it also has a setting called "whiteboard" - which isn't described in the manual.
Anybody know what it does?
Assume for taking photos of your office whiteboard.
So no official docs on this?
A quick search of HTC.com would have revealed this:
What different camera modes can I use?
To take pictures that are customized to a specific environment, tap the Scenes icon to choose from the different Scenes (modes) that are available. The icon is located on the bottom-left of the screen when shooting in landscape mode, and is reflective of the scene that is currently active (A will be displayed if Auto mode is active) The different scenes are:
Slow motion video – Create brilliant slow-motion video without needing to use video editing software later.
Auto – Take high quality pictures with a very fast capture speed. This is the default setting and also enables other features such as continuous shooting.
HDR – In bright light conditions, bring out the details of both highlights and shadows without washing out the image.
Panorama – Extend your shot by taking high quality panoramic pictures.
Portrait –Adds a smoothing effect to skin and bringing out the most of the human features.
Group portrait – Captures the most possible smiles and fewest blinks.
Landscape – Brings out the best features of nature’s wonders.
Whiteboard – Take the best possible pictures of highly reflective surfaces.
Close up – Also known as macro mode, this mode brings out the best colours and features of pictures taken at a close range.
Low light – Take great pictures in bad conditions, reducing overexposure caused by using a flash in these conditions (The flash is disabled while using the Low light scene).
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Behold_this said:
A quick search of HTC.com would have revealed this:
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Silly me looking at the manual
Thanks!
Behold_this said:
A quick search of ... would have revealed this:
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Actually i retract the thanks - I did search and nothing came up.
Kermode said:
Actually i retract the thanks - I did search and nothing came up.
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How do you think I found the info for you? Btw the search of HTC.com took 30 seconds. I was over estimating by merely saying "quick search" because I figured it would take a lazy, entitled person a little longer. I guess not everyone has enough common sense to perform an internet search, though. So, how 'bout you look at the link I posted in my first reply? Better yet, maybe I should act like a spoiled child too, and retract my help.
What's New:
"The app itself is more useful, time to focus is improved, low-light performance is better, etc. It's not perfect, but it's definitely an improvement. It seems like LG balanced things out. The video bit rate has been reduced, min fps increased, image quality increased, sharpness increased, audio bitrate increased, and more. Many of these changes are also in @Jishnu Sur's excellent mod, but with different values. Buy that guy a beer. He's been working on this camera for some time without even owning the device (and therefore without any of the benefit of the increased performance).
Included in the zip are a number of updated libs that deal with post-processing. If you use panorama, effects, etc. they may be improved with this. I don't use them much so I only verified they still work. Some of them (particularly some of the render script support libs), seem to be more for the stock Google gallery app and weren't even included in the VS98011A rom, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to include them in case the newer gallery app uses them." - xdabbeb
Instructions:
1) Do a backup in recovery, or backup the original files to be overwritten (check ZIP for names).
2) Flash.
AOSP
1) Flash.
NOTE: If these work on your variant and it's not on the list below, let us know so we can add it.
STOCK ROM
DOWNLOAD - Deodexed
DOWNLOAD - Deodexed (Mirror)
AOSP-based ROM (EXPERIMENTAL)
DOWNLOAD - v2
DOWNLOAD - v1
AOSP-based ROM Notes
The low-light FPS increase may not be in effect.
Burst is not working (but is available and may cause issues).
The intelligent auto does not work in low-lighting.
FC occurs when switching to front-camera, or using Panorama settings.
Confirmed Variants for Stock:
F320KE11
VS98011A (VZW)
D802A
D802B
LS980 (Sprint)
D800
Confirmed Variants for AOSP-based:
D802B
D803
D800 (AT&T)
LG Optimus 2x (P990)
Confirmed ROMs for Stock:
Stock rooted on all confirmed variants.
Malladus (VZW)
Grievous (D800)
Confirmed ROMs for AOSP-based (4.3):
AOSP
HeatshiverSX (AOKP)
OSE (VZW)
Carbon
PACman
PA
Slim ROM
CM10.2
Confirmed ROMs for AOSP-based (4.4):
PA
Gummy (VZW)
CM11
SlimKat
LucidPhusion
Create a Flashable ZIP Backup
1) If you would like to make a ZIP backup simply download the ZIP file for the update and make a copy.
2) Download a file explorer like ES Explorer or Root Explorer.
3) Open up the update ZIP and look at all the names of the folders, those will be mimicked in your phone's system folder.
4) Check the files within the folders of the update ZIP and note all the names, these will also be mimicked in your phone.
5) Use your file explorer and copy all the mimicked files in your phone to your SD card.
6) Connect your phone to your PC.
7) Move all your files to somewhere easily accessible.
8) Open (do not extract) the update ZIP copy with 7z or WinRAR.
9) Go into each folder (except META-INF) and copy over the files from your phone to the update ZIP copy.
10) Once you are done you now have a flashable ZIP to revert back to your previous state.
Camera NOT Showing in 4.3/4.4 Fix
If the AOSP camera is not appearing in the app drawer, first stop the camera that comes with the ROM, clear that camera's data, and then disable it. Reboot the phone and the AOSP camera should now be present. If it is not, then it is likely disabled. Re-enable it and that should get it to display.
Credits: xdabbeb, sefnap, Jishnu Sur
Not working on rooted international stock rom...now i lost my camera...can u pleasepost original camera so i can restore back rather than flashing all over again stock rom to have a working camera??
Tried this on the Sprint version. Didn't work. First time I installed the apks my phone did a boot loop twice and updated Android. Then I copied all the files into the other locations now my camera FC.
Sent from my LG-LS980 using xda app-developers app
edangel said:
Not working on rooted international stock rom...now i lost my camera...can u pleasepost original camera so i can restore back rather than flashing all over again stock rom to have a working camera??
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Have you delete the .odex for two .apk?
Java
Thinking about trying this. I'll be smart and nandroid. I'll let you know in about 30 minutes. I'm att
Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk 4
I was in the process of making some flashable additions for "my" ROM so here goes a flashable update and one to revert.
It removes and adds the necessary files.
Here's a flashable restore: http://www.adrive.com/public/bZgr7H/LGCamera_Restore.zip
If you guys want to hold off for a bit, there are still some other libraries I wanted to sort through for changes. I should be able to do so tomorrow and would be happy to provide the results for everyone if there is interest. My main intention was to get the principal files to Jishnu for his analysis.
This did work for me. I over wrote all the files and changed their permissions then deleted the odex files for the gallery and camera. The video focus is not fixed so not really worth the time IMO but thanks for sharing!!
Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk 4
I'm playing with it and I've noticed no difference. I'm still getting watercolor photos.
Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk
great work!thx
Looks like viewfinder now is less laggy. And at last i got the menu like in all reviews, before i had a strange Verizon moded camera without pics in menu and without Auto Flash in A.I. mode.
Anyway need to test it in low light conditions in the evening.
xdabbeb said:
If you guys want to hold off for a bit, there are still some other libraries I wanted to sort through for changes. I should be able to do so tomorrow and would be happy to provide the results for everyone if there is interest. My main intention was to get the principal files to Jishnu for his analysis.
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Hey, just wanted to know if you have any comment on this particular post someone made in another thread regarding the camera:
ZigZagJoe said:
TL;DR: Use sports mode. If desperate, try forcing ISO to 800.
Did some more testing of the camera. Sports mode does indeed bias towards faster shutter speeds - usually seems to pick ISO 400 where normal/auto would have used a shutter speed two stops slower and ISO 100. If sports mode is not cutting it, set ISO 800 and hope. If you don't get it at ISO 800, you won't get it with the default camera app. Some third party apps (I tried FV-5) allow you to specify ISO 1600, but image quality will be even worse. Really, just get a real camera out or get into better lighting.
Something else I have to mention is if you are using the modified camera app, if the guy did indeed manage to modify the actual amplification levels, what he did will reduce performance in regards to capturing moving objects as it will force a slower shutter speed - not entirely sure that guy knows what he is monkeying with.
My personal theory on the slow focus in low light is its being caused by the camera dropping below 1/30th of a second shutter speeds in favor of getting a proper exposure to be able focus precisely. If this is the case, forcing it to underexpose to get a smooth preview and faster focus could result in it being unable to focus.
There is a workaround for that, though, and focusing on moving objects: use the manual focus feature LG was so kind to include and set it to infinity focus. As long as you are about 3 feet or more from the object being photographed, everything will be in focus and there will be no shutter lag.
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Who is this ZigZagJoe Elite Recognized Dev?? If he thinks I'm a noob, please fix all the problems of the camera. Seems like He made the camera for the LG G2. If you did, man you are a bad engineer! !
Heatshiver said:
and provides a simple method to turn off the camera click sound.
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Not working in my f320k. Camera ver. 4.3.1
javahuan said:
Have you delete the .odex for two .apk?
Java
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Thanks...deleting the odex files made camera working..
@xdabbeb - I would definitely welcome any new libraries that would help! Feel free to tell me to add things to this thread, as it should be yours (I just got too excited when I saw it and tried it!).
@KassaNovaKaine @Jishnu Sur @ZigZagJoe
The writer seems to be guessing, but this is my area of expertise so I can tell you that when you shoot a sports event you ALWAYS use a high shutter speed at a low aperture to capture every movement without showing blur yet having great lighting. So, obviously, Sports Mode is going to be "biased" towards high shutter speeds. Image quality never gets worse as ISO increases, noise increases as ISO increases, making the image look worse. As far as the slow lag theory, it is somewhat correct. The "lag" would refer to the drop in framerate, which looks like lag to our eyes. Test this by moving from a well-lit area to a poorly-lit area and you'll see the difference between 30/60fps and 15fps. Go back to a well-lit area and a second or two later the camera is back to 30/60fps again. 15fps always looks odd. Check out this video on YT, which compares 15fps to 30fps. I also shot video on my Galaxy Note II in a poorly-lit area, and while the lighting was horrible compared to my LG G2, the fps stayed at 30fps, explaining its smoothness. The focus issue seems to be greatly reliant on how it is setup in the software (I would say the way light is processed is a probable culprit). As noted by the commenter, setting to infinite focus gives a workaround for this but people should know that this can provide acceptable sharpness but have less items in focus. Exposure seems to have no consequences to image focus. I tested with -2.0, 0.0 & +2.0 values. I was able to focus without any issues. To that end, it seemed underexposure focused much faster, and slowed as exposure was increased (of course, at the sake of lighting). I am not sure if this what you wanted KassaNovaKaine, but I hope that helps.
NOTE: I also used "low aperture" to mean lower numbers. Normally, you would say small aperture for higher numbers and large aperture for small numbers.
Heatshiver said:
@xdabbeb - I would definitely welcome any new libraries that would help! Feel free to tell me to add things to this thread, as it should be yours (I just got too excited when I saw it and tried it!).
@KassaNovaKaine @Jishnu Sur @ZigZagJoe
The writer seems to be guessing, but this is my area of expertise so I can tell you that when you shoot a sports event you ALWAYS use a high shutter speed at a low aperture to capture every movement without showing blur yet having great lighting. So, obviously, Sports Mode is going to be "biased" towards high shutter speeds. Image quality never gets worse as ISO increases, noise increases as ISO increases, making the image look worse. As far as the slow lag theory, it is somewhat correct. The "lag" would refer to the drop in framerate, which looks like lag to our eyes. Test this by moving from a well-lit area to a poorly-lit area and you'll see the difference between 30/60fps and 15fps. Go back to a well-lit area and a second or two later the camera is back to 30/60fps again. 15fps always looks odd. Check out this video on YT, which compares 15fps to 30fps. I also shot video on my Galaxy Note II in a poorly-lit area, and while the lighting was horrible compared to my LG G2, the fps stayed at 30fps, explaining its smoothness. The focus issue seems to be greatly reliant on how it is setup in the software (I would say the way light is processed is a probable culprit). As noted by the commenter, setting to infinite focus gives a workaround for this but people should know that this can provide acceptable sharpness but have less items in focus. Exposure seems to have no consequences to image focus. I tested with -2.0, 0.0 & +2.0 values. I was able to focus without any issues. To that end, it seemed underexposure focused much faster, and slowed as exposure was increased (of course, at the sake of lighting). I am not sure if this what you wanted KassaNovaKaine, but I hope that helps.
NOTE: I also used "low aperture" to mean lower numbers. Normally, you would say small aperture for higher numbers and large aperture for small numbers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Image quality definitely gets worse as ISO increases - saturation and fine detail take a dive off a cliff, to say nothing of noise. Fine detail loss is then compounded by overzealous noise reduction. Quality loss is more noticeable in these cameras due to the tiny sensor.
Yes, it makes sense that sports mode would increase shutter speed, but without documentation to that effect, who knows what it might do? For all I knew it could just be applying filters and/or changing WB like the other modes seem to do. Not sure what landscape mode does, even. Probably modifies saturation. Exposure settings increasing and decreasing framerate would make sense as it'd be changing exposure by decreasing/increasing shutter speed. Only time you'd have things out of focus is if they are closer than 3 feet, which is the approximate hyperfocal length for these sensor/lens combinations. One of the only blessings of such a small sensor....
Misc data, the phone is able to capture at 1/10000 of a second if conditions permit - ie. taking a picture of a light bulb. Might be able to go a bit faster; some images has the speed recorded as 1/INT_MAX. 1/6s seems to be the minimum shutter speed.
If autofocus was made a bit more "brave", ie. bigger focus steps, it could help, at the expense of focus precision. Could possibly be gotten away with as focus doesn't need to be hyper precise on these things anyways. Trade offs no matter how you go though - you either get slow, but accurate AF, faster but less accurate AF, or fast AF that can't focus (minimum FPS raised). A bandaid fix would be to have the flash LED turn on and be used as an AF-assist lamp for focusing in low light always instead of only when flash is enabled. Of course, wouldn't help when the object isn't in range, but still an improvement.
@ZigZagJoe
Unfortunately, that's not how ISO works. An ISO increase increases noise, it does not desaturate or deteriorate fine detail. Quality is also not saturation. A person who knows about and performs color correction does not saturate a photo as it will hinder quality in post. That isn't to say that is what quality is. If saturation is how you like your pictures, that's fine, but that lends to a personal definition (albeit common) of quality, not a technical definition of quality. I would imagine it is pretty hard to determine detail loss if noise is covering it up to begin with? It would have to be drastically different for that to be apparent. Maybe you are mistaking compression artifacts for noise? Quality is about bitrates, the higher the bitrate the less compression artifacts, which means the better the detail. In either case, the ISO is not making it worse. So it is either bitrate variation you are talking about, or the post-processing system of the camera. The sensor is tiny, but that doesn't mean much other than more ISO noise than a larger sensor. If it did, then a 5DMKII would look leaps and bounds better than a 7D, but it doesn't. It is a matter of hardware. I can name two phones from last year with near-identical sized sensors, but their quality is vastly different.
I am not going to go over the modes as they do have purposes, but they will take a long time to explain. If you have used any basic cameras of the last decade you should know what they do. Manufacturers rarely deviate from these modes other than by name. Besides, the best photographers use the manual mode.
Exposure value would not just affect shutter speeds but ISO settings as well (as evident through simple testing). It should also affect aperture, but cameras on phones have a fixed aperture. However, while shutter speeds are initially changed on this phone, they stay constant. ISO then varies depending on the lighting situation. I took 4 videos of 2 locations, all at 30fps, two at +2 EV, and two at -2 EV, and each set in a light and near-black (dark) area. The results were that the light +2 remained at 30fps, but showed a lot of compression artifacts from a bitrate of 13+MB/s. The dark +2 remained at 30fps, but showed a lot of noise. The light -2 changed to 24fps and showed much less compression artifacts at a bitrate of 17+MB/s. The dark -2 showed almost nothing at all, but the tiny emitting lights that were shown were smooth. These were all done with this mod and no focus issues were present.
I think the true issue with auto-focus primarily stems from IOS. This is the first 13MP to have it, so it's bound to have some kinks (hence the need for an update).
The more important issue is that people all want to complain about a camera phone. And when someone like @Jishnu Sur wants to help out, people insert the comments with false or half-truth information that others take as fact. Some could argue that there is no harm if just speculating, but smarter people know better. The bottom line is that the camera is great as it is. If you want a better AF, get a real camera. But those who get a real camera, and know how to use them, already know that manual focus is the way to go.
I hope this helps clear some things up, but any further comments should be left to PM or back on the thread where this actually started as I want this to be for the updated camera. Continuing this discussion is in part the fault of @KassaNovaKaine for bringing this up instead of just using a PM, and mine for wanting to correct it.
Been testing this update, and it is a vast improvement!
I had a chance so sift through the updated libs, etc., and have made a flashable zip with all the updated files.
This probably should have its own thread, but it doesn't make sense to create more clutter. @Heatshiver, if you don't mind, could you please update the title stating that this is the F320K11E Stock Camera + libs and remove the original download (as it was incomplete) to avoid any confusion. Actually, it would probably be a good idea to quote all of this as well so people don't have to read/search through the whole thread. I don't mind that you started it, as long as you field all the support questions
I have tested this on my VS98011A and it is a marked improvement over the original. All of my comments are in relation to that version of the software/camera.
What's new:
The app itself is more useful, time to focus is improved, low-light performance is better, etc. It's not perfect, but it's definitely an improvement. It seems like LG balanced things out. The video bit rate has been reduced, min fps increased, image quality increased, sharpness increased, audio bitrate increased, and more. Many of these changes are also in @Jishnu Sur's excellent mod, but with different values. Buy that guy a beer. He's been working on this camera for some time without even owning the device (and therefore without any of the benefit of the increased performance).
Included in the zip are a number of updated libs that deal with post-processing. If you use panorama, effects, etc. they may be improved with this. I don't use them much so I only verified they still work. Some of them (particularly some of the render script support libs), seem to be more for the stock Google gallery app and weren't even included in the VS98011A rom, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to include them in case the newer gallery app uses them.
Instructions:
1) Do a nandroid, or see which files are being updated and manually back them up.
2) See #1. If you mess something up you'll wish you had.
3) Flash away. I tested this with TWRP on a VS98011A and it works perfectly.
4) If you have another variant, let us know here whether or not it works.
F320K11E Camera Update
*I will also send the files along to Jishnu separately for inclusion/analysis in his mod.
So, loss of detail. For an example, have a look at this comparison. Less severe in larger sensors (IE. DSLRs) and more severe in smaller sensors, you know, what phones use. To what degree detail is lost depends on the severity of processing. Noise obscuring detail = detail loss. NR processing smoothing the image = more detail loss. Safe to say, higher ISO, more detail lost.
Saturation - essentially, color purity. I'm not referring to manipulation of saturation. A washed out image lacks saturation. Yes, it is moronic to equate saturation = quality. But, my personal preference doesn't enter into this at all. Is color information lost in an ISO 3200 image when compared an ISO 100 image? Yes. To what degree depends on the sensor and processing performed. Most dedicated cameras keep it fairly well in check, but phones tend to have serious issues with saturation at higher ISOs (also, Foveon sensors).
It does depend on the sensor pedigree, though - for instance, nikon's midrange APS-C sensors handle their noise a lot better than canon's 18mp-based offerings. So for phones to have different image quality is not unexpected.
Uh, JPG artifacting is way different than noise, and we were not even talking about compression in the first place?
Modes - don't care what the other ones are for, I was simply mentioning their presence. Don't ever use them on my real camera, but don't exactly have a choice in regards to phone. I was unable to get any sort of significant difference out of sports mode when I first tried it.... rest of the modes seem to be purely post processing related, for all I know LG made sports mode the same way. Later, checking EXIF info, I did see it changing shutter speed and ISO, favoring faster shutter speeds, which is the expected behavior, it's just not got much leeway for adjustment.
If ISO isn't already maxed (you know, like it is in low-light situations), yes, exposure control could be adjusting ISO too. But in the context of preview in low light, the exposure control directly affects the preview FPS, so it can only be adjusting shutter speed as ISO is already maxed. Would expect a similar effect on video but haven't tested it. Autofocus speed is directly linked to preview FPS, which is in turn limited by shutter speed (currently).
Hi. I have a problem with my S8+. U don't know if it is normal or not. Probably not (S7 photos were flawless, so S8 just can't be worse).
Take a look on this (same photo):
And
With autofocus set to upper left:
Left side is clearly blurred, right side is sharp as it should be.
PS shaking the phone with opened camera app does nothing.
I think you're asking if the periphery is out of focus?
Interesting question. Depth of field is the basic question, as I get it. What should be in focus, is based upon aperture (with correct speed: i.e. light). If I were trouble shooting an old camera, and checking the focus issue, I'd setup a field (stuff in the camera's focus range, at varying depths/distances from the camera), and take some photos in well lit conditions. It is important to know the 'depth of field' of a photo setting, so you can tell if the camera/lens and settings are all working as should be. The distance from the frontmost object, to the rear-most object still in focus, is called the 'depth of (the) field'
Check various distances/ranges from the objects, and see what comes out. If all is well there, I'd try different lighting variances, using the same distances as in step one.
Now, to test out the 'depth' portion of 'depth of field', you can set out a number of things, at varying distances, and given your 'depth of field' for your 'aperture', you should be able to see the things that are 'supposed' to be in the 'depth of field', all in focus. Remember, the smaller aperture, the smaller the hole that the light can pass through, the shorter, or less the 'depth of field', and the faster the shutter speed you can use (less light for a smaller hole). If you use a really large aperture, your camera will use a slower shutter/more light. If you go manual, which is a great way to learn how the camera 'depth of (the) field' works, you'll get a good understanding after a bit of time.
If the different distances and lighting comes out ok, both distance and lighting variances, I'd think you have a reasonable idea of the lens/camera portion is working correctly. The camera should take 'about' equally clear 'clarity', out to it's periphery.
If it's mux'ing up equally distanced (field of view) scenarios, I'd probably call Samsung. I advised well lit, so you can see what your are trying to investigate more clearly. using lighting variances would add to the 'evaluation' process, as that correlates more to a shutter speed.
You could go even further, by putting the camera into manual, and changing the aperture, test that out, and then the speed settings with varying arperture, testing that out . . .
but the basic 'auto' (auto aperture and auto speed) setting ought to work sufficient to get you the idea that yes, it is working/consistent/pretty clear at the periphery, or not. In very good cameras, with excellent lenses, the periphery is pretty spot on with the center of the lens, and that is with a great piece of glass. These cameras do a pretty good job, as well. Periphery is typically the more difficult ''depth of field'', as the lens, in some sense, is an approximation of your eye, with the higher definition in the center. Better lenses have a larger 'center' - some encompassing better to the periphery. Increasing the aperture increases the 'center' = greater 'depth', distance of the front most object that is in focus, to the objects behind a ways.
With the photos you posted up, it'd be necessary to know the aperture and speed being shot, to determine the depth of field (things that should be in focus based upon the aperture setting). Given the lighting, low/poor, a smaller aperture was likely used by the camera, with less/shorter depth of field.
Here is one example on how to calculate the 'field of view'.
http://shuttermuse.com/calculate-field-of-view-camera-lens/
There are hundreds of sites, but the calculation is basically about the same.
Also, if you could find someone near you with the same phone/camera, you could check their photos against yours, given the same parameters as above.
With your photos, above, if you were shooting (manual) with a hight speed, lets say, so less light coming into the lens, and small aperture, you'd have less 'depth of field', less things in focus. The larger the aperture, the more 'depth of field' you have. Speed needs to 'match', so you have the illumination good for the particular 'shot' you are wanting to accomplish. .So it's important to know the range, distance from the camera of the objects, to determining which ones 'should' be in focus, for the specific 'settings', i.e. aperture and speed (ISO) of film, or shutter speed, ASA..
I probably did not share this very eloquently, but I hope it gets across a few of the basic ideas?
Hope this helps.
@JeffDC -EDIT-
Are you trying to say that Galaxy S7 and S8 have different type of lens? I just tried to take a photo with autofocus set to left upper corner (landscape) and now the right side is blurred. IT never happened to me before in any phone or DSLR camera, but still, there is no such "effect" in S8 photos posted online, like https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/34287683905/in/album-72157682994456466/ - whole photo is sharp and clean.
EDIT 2, take a look on last photo in my first post. For me, there is definitely something wrong with my camera.
"Are you trying to say that Galaxy S7 and S8 have different type of lens? I just tried to take a photo with autofocus set to left upper corner (landscape) and now the right side is blurred. IT never happened to me before in any phone or DSLR camera, but still, there is no such "effect" in S8 photos posted online, like https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/34287683905/in/album-72157682994456466/ - whole photo is sharp and clean.
EDIT 2, take a look on last photo in my first post. For me, there is definitely something wrong with my camera."
I'm not saying anything about S7 or S8 differences. I was providing a method for you to test out your camera, no matter what type or from where.
As seen in review Redmi note 7 pro comes with camera2api enabled out of the box.
So technically we can get full manual support like
Shutter speed of 30 sec,iso,manual white balance,manual focus and most importantly RAW and DNG support. It does have the the camera hardware and processor to handle this things.
Can you all test apps like Camera -fv,Open camera or Bacon camera to see the device performance:
1:Low light
2:Light trail
3very important and the main reason of this post)
Astrophotography or Milkyway shots
Main task take photo at night pointing at the sky with stars around and take a shoot with this setting
Iso( lowest setting possible)+30 sec or more shutter speed+focus infinity( save the image in JPG and DNG)
AND PLS UPLOAD THE RESULT
???
Nuclear 1234 said:
As seen in review Redmi note 7 pro comes with camera2api enabled out of the box.
So technically we can get full manual support like
Shutter speed of 30 sec,iso,manual white balance,manual focus and most importantly RAW and DNG support. It does have the the camera hardware and processor to handle this things.
Can you all test apps like Camera -fv,Open camera or Bacon camera to see the device performance:
1:Low light
2:Light trail
3very important and the main reason of this post)
Astrophotography or Milkyway shots
Main task take photo at night pointing at the sky with stars around and take a shoot with this setting
Iso( lowest setting possible)+30 sec or more shutter speed+focus infinity( save the image in JPG and DNG)
AND PLS UPLOAD THE RESULT
???
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bro i think miui cam is best till date bcoz there is no support for 48mp in other camera application
http // i65.tinypic.com/m7chh4 dot png
Attempt to capture the moon on note 7 pro. Good results.
Iso100, 1/125, f 1.179, what should I do next
7shivam1 said:
http // i65.tinypic.com/m7chh4 dot png
Attempt to capture the moon on note 7 pro. Good results.
Iso100, 1/125, f 1.179, what should I do next
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Can you please send some other pictures ?
HrutvikJagtap said:
Can you please send some other pictures ?
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https // drive.google dot com/folderview?id=11AuzQQJThKCFWXVOA8ZnqGMTLSaDQ94H
There are not many here. But a good comparison of the night mode and the moon photo on 48mp. :good:
7shivam1 said:
https // drive.google dot com/folderview?id=11AuzQQJThKCFWXVOA8ZnqGMTLSaDQ94H
There are not many here. But a good comparison of the night mode and the moon photo on 48mp. :good:
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Thanks buddy
HrutvikJagtap said:
Thanks buddy
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Welcome bro, and I added 18 more photos to the album. Dude the camera blows!!! This the most expensive phone I have purchased in my life and I could not be more happy.
In one particular photo on 48 mp, supersampling went wrong and the photo has color bands or spots.
Nuclear 1234 said:
As seen in review Redmi note 7 pro comes with camera2api enabled out of the box.
So technically we can get full manual support like
Shutter speed of 30 sec,iso,manual white balance,manual focus and most importantly RAW and DNG support. It does have the the camera hardware and processor to handle this things.
Can you all test apps like Camera -fv,Open camera or Bacon camera to see the device performance:
1:Low light
2:Light trail
3very important and the main reason of this post)
Astrophotography or Milkyway shots
Main task take photo at night pointing at the sky with stars around and take a shoot with this setting
Iso( lowest setting possible)+30 sec or more shutter speed+focus infinity( save the image in JPG and DNG)
AND PLS UPLOAD THE RESULT
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HrutvikJagtap said:
Thanks buddy
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Well can't access the folder pls upload the image or share the link
Can u use a tripod or use headphone so that the camera doesn't move
Then go to pro mode and select this setting for stars picture
Point the camera to the sky make sure stars are visible to u
Focus (infinity)+ISO(100-400)+Shutter speed(30 sec)+ white balance auto
THEN TAKE THE PHOTO
NEXT SETTING
Focus (infinity)+ISO(1600-3200)+Shutter speed(30sec)+white balance auto
Now try camerafv 5 or bacon camera it doesn't matter if those app doesn't support the 48 no resulution and take photo with above mentioned setting just take photo in DNG(RAW) formats.
(you can google that and get some idea how will it look or what to expect)
Nuclear 1234 said:
Can u use a tripod or use headphone so that the camera doesn't move
Then go to pro mode and select this setting for stars picture
Point the camera to the sky make sure stars are visible to u
Focus (infinity)+ISO(100-400)+Shutter speed(30 sec)+ white balance auto
THEN TAKE THE PHOTO
NEXT SETTING
Focus (infinity)+ISO(1600-3200)+Shutter speed(30sec)+white balance auto
Now try camerafv 5 or bacon camera it doesn't matter if those app doesn't support the 48 no resulution and take photo with above mentioned setting just take photo in DNG(RAW) formats.
(you can google that and get some idea how will it look or what to expect)
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I don't have a tripod but I'll try out what you said. And this camera really captures even the smallest of the details. If you download and zoom in some of these building photos you can even see sunlight reflecting into spaces in the societies parking area. Even the farthest objects can be looked at closed with good details. Very surprised.
https //drive.google dot com/folderview?id=11AuzQQJThKCFWXVOA8ZnqGMTLSaDQ94H
Link sharing is on, this link should work.
Ok
Can u try something like this
kishangupta009 said:
Bro i think miui cam is best till date bcoz there is no support for 48mp in other camera application
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There is 48MP support in Open Camera.
Amazing performance
Nuclear 1234 said:
Can u try something like this
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Here you go buddy.
It wasn't very dark location and Milky way wasn't up , but you can se the big dipper.
ISO 1600 , Shutter 16s . I tried shutter speed of 32s but stars were trailing at that so used 16s.
I used stock camera on purpose because I wanted to see without any special efforts how is the quality.
And I can say I am impressed.
Straight out of camera image. No modifications whatsoever.
will try milky way in upcoming months.
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1Y9hXN9sC8EbiSTTN8oZo2-vhIQ5vYgX7
Amazing!
Nilesh Jaybhaye said:
Here you go buddy.
It wasn't very dark location and Milky way wasn't up , but you can se the big dipper.
ISO 1600 , Shutter 16s . I tried shutter speed of 32s but stars were trailing at that so used 16s.
I used stock camera on purpose because I wanted to see without any special efforts how is the quality.
And I can say I am impressed.
Straight out of camera image. No modifications whatsoever.
will try milky way in upcoming months.
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1Y9hXN9sC8EbiSTTN8oZo2-vhIQ5vYgX7
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This is absolutely insane! The potential of this camera is just amazing!
Nilesh Jaybhaye said:
Here you go buddy.
It wasn't very dark location and Milky way wasn't up , but you can se the big dipper.
ISO 1600 , Shutter 16s . I tried shutter speed of 32s but stars were trailing at that so used 16s.
I used stock camera on purpose because I wanted to see without any special efforts how is the quality.
And I can say I am impressed.
Straight out of camera image. No modifications whatsoever.
will try milky way in upcoming months.
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1Y9hXN9sC8EbiSTTN8oZo2-vhIQ5vYgX7
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The stock camera reduces sharpness on human subjects and boosts color to look pleasing to the eye even with beautify, AI mode turned off. So it's better to try some other camera for true experience.
If you want a proper stock, download Gcam and capture picture in RAW format.
A word of caution, the RAW images will look dull because no processing has been done on the images and they will be very large in size. Use Lightroom (Pc and Android Both) to fit it according to your need.
Added one more picture
ni6hant said:
The stock camera reduces sharpness on human subjects and boosts color to look pleasing to the eye even with beautify, AI mode turned off. So it's better to try some other camera for true experience.
If you want a proper stock, download Gcam and capture picture in RAW format.
A word of caution, the RAW images will look dull because no processing has been done on the images and they will be very large in size. Use Lightroom (Pc and Android Both) to fit it according to your need.
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Yes , Built in camera does alter images .
For milky way will surely try RAW and Lightroom on PC.
btw added one more long exposure in same folder.
Long Exposure of Modi's plane taking off after a local rally.
Nilesh Jaybhaye said:
Here you go buddy.
It wasn't very dark location and Milky way wasn't up , but you can se the big dipper.
ISO 1600 , Shutter 16s . I tried shutter speed of 32s but stars were trailing at that so used 16s.
I used stock camera on purpose because I wanted to see without any special efforts how is the quality.
And I can say I am impressed.
Straight out of camera image. No modifications whatsoever.
will try milky way in upcoming months.
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1Y9hXN9sC8EbiSTTN8oZo2-vhIQ5vYgX7
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Click to collapse
The photos are awesome!
Can you share the exact camera settings used & whether you used the usual point and shoot mode or used pro mode?
If so the iso and shutter etc settings to get such perfect shots?
Also, were these captured on 48mp mode or default mode.?
Some issues:
My phone is just a week old while I have no issues with anything, whats bothering me is rear/main camera capturing daylight images with a yellow tint.
If I shoot anything indoors using an artificial light like cfl or led bulbs the shots come perfect and real in colors or textures and lighting.
Also, again the Red color seems isnt captured to the perfection. It is either captured as pink or orange.
I hope these are software issues or if the camera lens parses the light more in yellow.
Any expert to comment on this.
Very nice photos by phone
i want to capture Andromeda galaxy in phone how i can?
Shot on Redmi - PRO Photography
55 new items added to shared album
photos.app.goo.gl
https://photos.app.goo.gl/EKvnpp9ohD4zT45DA
I have a problem with both stock cam and Gcam, both pictures in the link are taken extremely close to the "first obstacle", a flower in one and plants in the other. In the flowers picture everything else gets blurred, in the plants picture where there is no clear focus object everything looks crispy.
I have noticed this with a lot of my photos, if there is something stealing the attention the camera blurs everything else too much, I want everything in my pictures to always be crispy ... how do I do that?
I just always use normal mode without touching anything else, don´t know much about photography, I just want the blurriness gone.
@AurioDK just use tap to focus, when you are taking a photo, tap the part of the screen you want to focus. Works for the front camera too if you take some pics there
manor7777 said:
@AurioDK just use tap to focus, when you are taking a photo, tap the part of the screen you want to focus. Works for the front camera too if you take some pics there
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But I don´t want to focus on anything usually, I just want the picture to be all crispy like the "plant" one. Should I just click on the sky or some object in the distance? The funny thing is that I don´t have this problem with indoor pictures, only outdoors.
AurioDK said:
But I don´t want to focus on anything usually, I just want the picture to be all crispy like the "plant" one. Should I just click on the sky or some object in the distance?
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You can use Pro mode (swipe up at bottom of camera app). It will take longer to get a shot, but if you were using a dslr I would expect the same. Its the 3rd option in pro mode, a focus wheel with very nice haptic feedback.
AurioDK said:
But I don´t want to focus on anything usually, I just want the picture to be all crispy like the "plant" one. Should I just click on the sky or some object in the distance? The funny thing is that I don´t have this problem with indoor pictures, only outdoors.
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You've got the terms reversed somewhat. What you want is everything in focus, not 'non focused'. If something is not in focus, it is blurry. You seem to be replacing the word "focus" with "crispy" which is just making up words and confusing the issue. I read the thread title to mean you want everything in the photo to be blurry (which is what it is saying in reality) which would just make it look like the camera is broken!
If your distance to the subject is very small, and the background is very far, you aren't going to be able to get both in focus. It's just the physics of how lenses/cameras work. If you change the focus point to a distant object, the subject (near object) will be blurry. You can't focus on both, if they are too far apart.
The reason you don't see this problem indoors, is due to the fact that the background is much closer. It's the distance between the subject and the background (particular outdoors, where the background tends to be much farther away) that is causing the background to blur. Find an indoor setting, with the same distance (between subject and background) and I guarantee that you will have the same result (blurry background).
The closer the objects in the photo are to each other (distance to the camera) the easier it is to get them both in focus. You can decrease the background blur, by increasing your distance to the subject (near object) but you may lose the intended composition. Using the "Pro" mode as another suggested, is also a good idea. Use a smaller aperture (higher f-stop number) and minimal optical zoom. Since both aperture and focal length (optical zoom) both affect the depth of field (which in turn determines how blurry the background will be). In fact, I can see from the photo metadata in your gallery, that the photos are taken at f/1.65, which is a very large aperture, and maximizes background blur. Force the f-stop to a larger value in "Pro" mode, and you will likely see the background blur decrease. Although distance to subject, and distance of the background are still major factors.
Also keeping in mind that changing the f-stop will also affect the shutter speed and ISO. They are all inter-dependent, and known as the "exposure triangle". So you may need to manipulate the ISO or shutter speed to achieve the desired results.
Note: Made some major edits to the post. I noticed the pics in the gallery are taken at f/1.65 (presumably on automatic settings), which may be a major factor in the background blur. Somewhat changed some of my thinking on how to get the results that are desired by the user.
AurioDK said:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/EKvnpp9ohD4zT45DA
I just always use normal mode without touching anything else, don´t know much about photography, I just want the blurriness gone.
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I little reading on how depth of field works may answer your question and also help you take the pictures with desired results. There is an easy read at:
https://digital-photography-school.com/understanding-depth-field-beginners/
redpoint73 said:
You've got the terms reversed somewhat. What you want is everything in focus, not 'non focused'. If something is not in focus, it is blurry. You seem to be replacing the word "focus" with "crispy" which is just making up words and confusing the issue. I read the thread title to mean you want everything in the photo to be blurry (which is what it is saying in reality) which would just make it look like the camera is broken!
If your distance to the subject is very small, and the background is very far, you aren't going to be able to get both in focus. It's just the physics of how lenses/cameras work. If you change the focus point to a distant object, the subject (near object) will be blurry. You can't focus on both, if they are too far apart.
The reason you don't see this problem indoors, is due to the fact that the background is much closer. It's the distance between the subject and the background (particular outdoors, where the background tends to be much farther away) that is causing the background to blur. Find an indoor setting, with the same distance (between subject and background) and I guarantee that you will have the same result (blurry background).
The closer the objects in the photo are to each other (distance to the camera) the easier it is to get them both in focus. You can decrease the background blur, by increasing your distance to the subject (near object) but you may lose the intended composition. Using the "Pro" mode as another suggested, is also a good idea. Use a smaller aperture (higher f-stop number) and minimal optical zoom. Since both aperture and focal length (optical zoom) both affect the depth of field (which in turn determines how blurry the background will be). In fact, I can see from the photo metadata in your gallery, that the photos are taken at f/1.65, which is a very large aperture, and maximizes background blur. Force the f-stop to a larger value in "Pro" mode, and you will likely see the background blur decrease. Although distance to subject, and distance of the background are still major factors.
Also keeping in mind that changing the f-stop will also affect the shutter speed and ISO. They are all inter-dependent, and known as the "exposure triangle". So you may need to manipulate the ISO or shutter speed to achieve the desired results.
Note: Made some major edits to the post. I noticed the pics in the gallery are taken at f/1.65 (presumably on automatic settings), which may be a major factor in the background blur. Somewhat changed some of my thinking on how to get the results that are desired by the user.
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Click to collapse
I found out how, your post gave me the answer. It´s as you said, I need to keep a certain distance to the closest object and the margin between an "all focus" and "object focus only" picture is very small. I played a bit with a coke bottle on a lawn to get a feeling and I think I now have it. I finally managed to get the pictures I wanted, it´s just a matter of keeping the closest object a bit further away. Thank you.