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Hello everyone, I will be getting my Mi A1 in a week or two and I'm really looking forward to it. Well.. l maybe not the camera as I've seen it get some harsh reviews, especially in low light. That's why I want a thread here on how to improve the image quality. Looking into the matter it seems like google camera with hdr+ is the best bet so far? However can we share settings and tweaks here to improve it further. Also posting pictures for comparison versus stock would be great. :highfive::good::good:
I have an Mi A1 as my moto broke and needed one staright away. Being in Asia for work I had easy access to it.
I have used dark cameras for. Long time and can see that the algorithm to bump up the iso could do with a bit of modifying.. I have not had much chance to take shots.. took about 10 in total..
I will take a few shots in differing light and then import them into PC Lightroom and push a few shadows and raise iso and see what is the best result.
That info might be useful to those involved.. of what I have seen, the focus is okay, but high iso is a killer.. will report here again in a week or so.
It helps if you Untick "Enhance low light images automatically" under Settings and then shoot pictures under low light conditions with HDR on. The HHT or Hand Held Twilight mode doesn't help much also..
The_Runner said:
It helps if you Untick "Enhance low light images automatically" under Settings and then shoot pictures under low light conditions with HDR on. The HHT or Hand Held Twilight mode doesn't help much also..
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What are your favorite settings when you shot in low light conditions ?
- Hdr ?
- HHT ?
- Untick or Tick "Enhance low light images automatically"
FerrarisIV said:
What are your favorite settings when you shot in low light conditions ?
- Hdr ?
- HHT ?
- Untick or Tick "Enhance low light images automatically"
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I don't use HHT .. isn't of much help..
Hdr is on
HHT off
Untick enhance low light images..
I tried every combination, thats the best one, if u keep the camera still.. at least the ISO problem is partially reduced.
But if you use manual mode . You can really get some good shots
Here are is a sample on manual mode. I used a light source, an led torch.
Thanks a lot: I will try, also in manual mode.
Anyway did you try Google Camera, and what is your opinion about it compared with stock camera ?
The_Runner said:
Here are some samples on manual mode. I used a light source, an led torch.
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FerrarisIV said:
Thanks a lot: I will try, also in manual mode.
Anyway did you try Google Camera, and what is your opinion about it compared with stock camera ?
ps: cannot see images
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No i didn't try that still.. I'm waiting for the Oreo build to see if they improve the camera a bit. And then I'll opt for Gcam, though i know HDR+ mode is great. bt still wanna give the stock a run
Ps: you can now see those images. One of them got inverted. My bad
The_Runner said:
No i didn't try that still.. I'm waiting for the Oreo build to see if they improve the camera a bit. And then I'll opt for Gcam, though i know HDR+ mode is great. bt still wanna give the stock a run
Ps: you can now see those images. One of them got inverted. My bad
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Thanks again. I am waiting for Oreo, too. But I don't know if i can wait to try Google Camera with Eis and Hdr+
FerrarisIV said:
Thanks again. I am waiting for Oreo, too. But I don't know if i can wait to try Google Camera with Eis and Hdr+
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Same with me.. I also cant wait after seeing those HDR+ shots, but then, Oreo is just a few days away.. so
The_Runner said:
Same with me.. I also cant wait after seeing those HDR+ shots, but then, Oreo is just a few days away.. so
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Not few days.. some weeks :highfive
anyway i am studying for Unlock and Rooting the device
Still waiting for my a1 to arrive, stupid slow swedish customs.. I think mine will be unlocked asap to push the limits! :victory:
enricogrim said:
I've rooted my phone and installed modded gcam with hdr+ and eis enabled. Honestly I don't see so much improvement in photos...
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Really? Did you try to shot in low light conditions with Hdr + ? here should have difference... also if i still never tried everybody confirm this
enricogrim said:
I've rooted my phone and installed modded gcam with hdr+ and eis enabled. Honestly I don't see so much improvement in photos...
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Which version of Gcam and what settings do you use? I can clearly see vast improvement of low light photos taken with Gcam.
enricogrim said:
Yes, I did some shots in low light conditions with gcam and stock camera and they are very similar. I will try more shots.
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Try try, i wait for you :good::laugh:
enricogrim said:
I'm using GCam5.1.016-Arnova8G2-V1.3 and settings of Nexus 6 as suggested.
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Try this one: MGC_5.1.014_7.0H_C2API_v.1.5g_AllinOne.apk (model Nexus 6P, Config HDR+ Pixel 2016 Zsl Hdr, HDR+ High)
I've taken a couple with both apps, here's a few samples (HDR on both): (Left:Stock cam; Right: Google cam)
JaadiBooti said:
I've taken a couple with both apps, here's a few samples (HDR on both): (Left:Stock cam; Right: Google cam)
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Incredible difference
MI A1 DETAILED REVIEW AFTER COUPLE OF DAYS OF USAGE.
Pros :
1) Potrait shots are exceptionally well in good light conditions.
2) HDR works pretty well in Daylight.
3) The Dirac Sound built in is fabulous both in terms of speakers & on headphones.
4) Build quality is amazing.
5) Voice quality is very very clear.
Cons:
1) Night mode is really really bad.(Too much noise & Shaky pictures are captured ,loses focus most of the time)
2) Lack of image stabilization while clicking pictures in HDR mode as well as normal mode.
(Slight shaking of phone loses focus in HDR mode and makes pictures blurry)(MUST NEEDED IN NEXT UPDATE)
3) HDR mode in artificial light feels too much exposed over bright light and image feels too artificial.
4) No Electronic image stabilization (EIS) while shooting video its too shaky & not upto the mark.(MUST NEEDED IN NEXT UPDATE)
5) 2X shots are not that great when zoomed even 50% and also are much noisy at times.
6) The UI is smooth but feels at times having less transiston.(Forced swipe has to be done from up to down & from down to up)
7) Selfies are bit artificial at times want it more natural and too much beautification is being applied.
8) In phone app while clearing the call history the app crashes and doesn't clear the call history. It force stops.
Shots by stock cam, with optical zoom 10x and our 2x optical zoom. In last pictures I used digital zoom, too.
image host
It is boring to always use the auto mode in camera so let's try the manual mode and have greater quality pictures, which is better than auto mode.
What is manual mode ?
Manual mode is one of the main settings on your camera, and it lets you manually control shutter speed, white balance, manual focus, and ISO in most. These three settings work together to control the how bright or dark your photo is (known as exposure), as well as change the overall look of the image.
What is ISO ?
In photography ISO measures the sensitivity of the image sensor. The same principles apply as in film photography – the lower the number the less sensitive your camera is to light and the finer the grain. Higher ISO settings are generally used in darker situations to get faster shutter speeds.
What is Shutter Speed ?
In photography, shutter speed or exposure time is the length of time when the film or digital sensor inside the camera is exposed to light, also when a camera's shutter is open when taking a photograph. The amount of light that reaches the film or image sensor is proportional to the exposure time.
What is White balancing ?
White balancing is a process in which a camera will attempt to detect the type of white light largely visible in different environments. This is typically utilized to account for different light sources (fluorescent, incandescent, etc.), as well as different weather types and times of day (overcast, sunny, sunset, etc.). White balance generally focuses on collecting the proper temperature of white light in a scene, which ranges from cold (blue-tinted) to warm (orange or gold-tinted).
This is one setting that is often best left on automatic settings, unless the viewfinder suggests that the automatic white balance is obviously wrong. Of note, RAW images will have to be manually white balanced in post-processing, as RAW shooting will not modify the white balance in-camera.
What is Manual Focus ?
Manual focus controls are a more recent and much-appreciated addition to the control suite of manual smartphone photographers. Most camera apps features a simple and intuitive circular slider which can be used to accurately set focus manually in lieu of the jumpier and imperfect auto-focus, something which is often exaggerated when trying to take photos of close subjects. If you want to take a closer pic of something very near try macro focus.
What is Manual exposure ?
manual exposure is a small supplement to ISO and shutter speed settings, and it is one of the rarer manual settings one will find in smartphone camera applications. If a combination of shutter speed and ISO produce an unsatisfying image, manual exposure is often offered as a way of tweaking the brightness of an image in-camera. It can quite easily be replaced by simply modifying brightness after taking the photo, but it can sometimes be more efficient to get the image right the first time.
What do we have in our Lenovo P2 :
I had Camera api2 activated and snap camera hdr+ and oneplus 5 camera apps.
Shutter speed
Minimum 0.68s maximum 1/96423s
ISO
Minimum 100 Maximum 19200
Verdict approximate values
In low light condition
Higher ISO [ 500 ~ 19200 aprx] + Higher shutter speed [0.68 ~ 1/200 aprx]
In heavy light condition
Lower ISO [below 500 aprx] + Lower shutter speed [1/200s ~ 1/96423s aprx]
Camera Api2 advantages
Raw image capture support
In depth manual mode control
Enable camera api2
https://forum.xda-developers.com/lenovo-p2/themes/flashable-zip-activating-camera-api2-t3724207
Which app is best for manual mode?
? Snap camera HDR
https://www.google.co.in/search?q=Snap+camera+HDR+paid+apk&gws_rd=cr&dcr=0&ei=bXs-WuDaI4HEvQSYyLWQDQ [Google search result page, Cuz many getting confused about this app]
? Oneplus 5 camera
Download link https://forum.xda-developers.com/lenovo-p2/themes/stable-oneplus-5-camera-t3709983
? Adobe Photoshop Lightroom CC
? Camera FV 5
Reserved [for samples]
I can't use the RAW format, the scrren get mad and the camera crash, am i the only one with this problem?
Liacon said:
I can't use the RAW format, the scrren get mad and the camera crash, am i the only one with this problem?
Click to expand...
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Screenshot
It's like this with all the camera apps that have avaible the raw format
At first I was thinking that the problem it's present because I usa a micro sd, but the image gets mad even without it.
I'm on the last lineage build by Higway Star
Liacon said:
It's like this with all the camera apps that have avaible the raw format
At first I was thinking that the problem it's present because I usa a micro sd, but the image gets mad even without it.
I'm on the last lineage build by Higway Star
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Only the bug in camera driver can make mess like this.
Wonder Wicked Witch said:
Only the bug in camera driver can make mess like this.
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So it's a rom's related problem?
Liacon said:
So it's a rom's related problem?
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Same issue on stock s244, with every app.
Also, I've seen many others
Liacon said:
So it's a rom's related problem?
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icsdia said:
Same issue on stock s244, with every app.
Also, I've seen many others
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe due to changing roms in mobiles the camera driver can get into buggy, not confirmed yet.
If you want Camera with Raw capture try "snap camera HDR" with force HAL1 enabled in-app setting.
If you looking for completely manual configuration try camera api2 ON in-app setting.
[camera api2 HAL3 vs HAL1 screenshots]
I can't find force hal1, sucks.
At least the manual controls it's a very sweet thing
Liacon said:
I can't find force hal1, sucks.
At least the manual controls it's a very sweet thing
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Did you check it out properly? It is in-built in app itself.
Wonder Wicked Witch said:
Did you check it out properly? It is in-built in app itself.
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I have check the same option that you show in your screen shot, but maybe it's because I have the trial version
Liacon said:
I can't use the RAW format, the scrren get mad and the camera crash, am i the only one with this problem?
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Same problem here.
Liacon said:
I have check the same option that you show in your screen shot, but maybe it's because I have the trial version
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Maybe you can get it for free if you Google it.
YoYoRishi said:
Same problem here.
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With camera api2 raw fails as it is not supported in P2 right now. But without camera api2 or with Hal1 enabled you can capture raw image in DNG format.
Hello there, other S10e owners,
Recently, I took advantage of an early Black Friday sale to get an S10e, the phone I was craving for a while. They said the image quality is on par with the Pixel 3 after the May update, but in reality, it's just as noisy and "oil-paintingish" as my Xperia Z1 Compact from four (!!!) years ago.
The samples are in the attachment of this forum post; the first and the third image was taken with the Google Camera app, and the second and forth one with the Samsung Camera app. The first two images were taken with HDR, but the latter ones without HDR.
As you can see in the non-HDR pictures, the Samsung Camera picture has less noise, but cold, washed-out colours and less detail thanks to the aggressive noise cancellation.
On the other hand, the Google Camera image has the correct colour representation and more detail, but with the sacrifice of noise cancellation.
With HDR+, though... Things get even worse. The Samsung Camera app now blurs out even more detail and the Google Camera app just cranks up the ISO to levels that make the image too bright.
In conclusion, the image quality is not on the promised levels, but I hope there's something I can do with it (like a good setup.xml file that can fix GCam to shoot exceptionally good images in both sun- and low light or fixing the Samsung Camera app). So, in order to fix this, I need your help. Please give me advice to pimp back up the image quality to the levels I saw in camera reviews.
Edit: Oops, I forgot to mention that I have the Exynos version.
ThePS4Gamer said:
Hello there, other S10e owners,
Recently, I took advantage of an early Black Friday sale to get an S10e, the phone I was craving for a while. They said the image quality is on par with the Pixel 3 after the May update, but in reality, it's just as noisy and "oil-paintingish" as my Xperia Z1 Compact from four (!!!) years ago.
The samples are in the attachment of this forum post; the first and the third image was taken with the Google Camera app, and the second and forth one with the Samsung Camera app. The first two images were taken with HDR, but the latter ones without HDR.
As you can see in the non-HDR pictures, the Samsung Camera picture has less noise, but cold, washed-out colours and less detail thanks to the aggressive noise cancellation.
On the other hand, the Google Camera image has the correct colour representation and more detail, but with the sacrifice of noise cancellation.
With HDR+, though... Things get even worse. The Samsung Camera app now blurs out even more detail and the Google Camera app just cranks up the ISO to levels that make the image too bright.
In conclusion, the image quality is not on the promised levels, but I hope there's something I can do with it (like a good setup.xml file that can fix GCam to shoot exceptionally good images in both sun- and low light or fixing the Samsung Camera app). So, in order to fix this, I need your help. Please give me advice to pimp back up the image quality to the levels I saw in camera reviews.
Edit: Oops, I forgot to mention that I have the Exynos version.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please give me the Gcam download link. I couldn't find any Gcam version that worked well on my S10e Exynos. Thanks
Julyh0rse.ManU said:
Please give me the Gcam download link. I couldn't find any Gcam version that worked well on my S10e Exynos. Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you can do something with it, here's the link: GCam Exynos APK
In sunlight, it should theoretically work with the stock settings, but they say it's recommended to change the auto-exposure correction to 1/2 sec, the Night Sight correction to 1/4 sec and the exposure compensation to -3,0 to get the best out of daytime GCam photos.
For Night Sight images, it's recommended to use the mackytravel-nightsight.xml file without any changes for outdoor night photos and for indoors, turn off auto-exposure correction and exposure compensation, change the Night Sight correction to 1
or 2 sec (depending on the level of darkness) and in the Advanced drop-down menu, turn off the ISO limit. This way, you can get more detail out from the S10e's powerful camera sensors.
Lastly, if you'd like to shoot something with the wide-angle lens, just change the auxiliary camera switching method to the long-press method.
You can find my GCam config folder with all of the said configuration files at the link here.
Just install the GCam apk, copy-paste the config folder to the root of your internal storage (/storage/emulated/0/) and double tap on the black area around the shutter button to choose between the three configuration files.
I've noticed a similar thing with my camera on my SD 855 model where images taken using the camera just don't look very natural or realistic. They look very much like a painting!
Currently I get better results with HDR on and scene optimiser turned off.
My iPhone 7 photos still look a bit more natural at times but obviously less detailed.
Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
And are they responsive on the Mi note 10?
Lightroom? Any other? What about Snapseed ,does it keep the 27MPix? Thanks!
jonoro11 said:
And are they responsive on the Mi note 10?
Lightroom? Any other? What about Snapseed ,does it keep the 27MPix? Thanks!
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in snapseed, just make sure you choose "Do not resize" option in export setting.
otonieru said:
in snapseed, just make sure you choose "Do not resize" option in export setting.
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Unfortunately, that isn't the case for a full 108MP image. 27MP seems to be fine, just a little smaller sometimes, but I think the phone hardware isn't powerful enough to process a 108MP image without reducing the resolution and quality.
Quick update: Photoshop Express retained almost all of the resolution and detail of a 108MP photo. The resolution went from 9024x12032 to 9000x12000. That's a negligible difference.
I prefer Snapseed as an editor (I love the masking and curves), but maybe it's time for me to learn more about the Photoshop Express app.
Thanks!
I researched and Snapseed apparently supports a maximum resolution of 20MPix. So I guess good for slightly cropped images to save original detail
https://support.google.com/snapseed/answer/6202870?hl=en
PS Express is 30,000x30,000 max:
https://helpx.adobe.com/photoshop-elements/kb/maximum-image-size-limits-photoshop.html
Update: I tried editing a 27.1 MPix sample (I haven't got this phone yet) on Snapseed, PS Express and Lightroom, and LR kept the original 27.1 MPx while both Snapseed and PSX resized to 25 MPx. VSCO also keeps the 27.1 MPx
Phantom_DJ said:
Unfortunately, that isn't the case for a full 108MP image. 27MP seems to be fine, just a little smaller sometimes, but I think the phone hardware isn't powerful enough to process a 108MP image without reducing the resolution and quality.
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well, even whatsapp sometimes crashing when i tried to send image from this phone. 108MP is indeed way too big for most of current app design
Just wondering if there's any way I can get an astrophotography time lapse greater than 1 second? I would love to have 60 seconds, but I know it would probably take 4 hours or something.
Just wondering if this is possible or there's any third party apps that might be able to do this (take a longer exposure than the 4 minutes that astrophotography takes)?
I don't think it is possible, the astro time-lapse is made up from the images used to and then stacked for the astro image itself so you would end up with shed loads of images as well.
Have you tried just using the normal time-lapse option in the video settings?
Exactly, take a normal night video and then slow it down with editing software.
schmeggy929 said:
Exactly, take a normal night video and then slow it down with editing software.
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The dude is talking about astrophotography and long exposure shots for a reason. What will a "night video" do good? And timelapse is not slowing down the video. lmao
That is my mistake, I totally read his post wrong.
Thing is the astro time laps is made up of the individual shots taken when Astrophotography mode is active so those individual image have been taken at f1.85, if you just did a normal time lapse using the main lens the video will still be at f1.85 and with a bit of post processing it should work.
The other way around it is to just take a night mode photo every 30 seconds for 2 hours using a timer and a Bluetooth remote.
MrBelter said:
Thing is the astro time laps is made up of the individual shots taken when Astrophotography mode is active so those individual image have been taken at f1.85, if you just did a normal time lapse using the main lens the video will still be at f1.85 and with a bit of post processing it should work.
The other way around it is to just take a night mode photo every 30 seconds for 2 hours using a timer and a Bluetooth remote.
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You're talking about Aperture that is FIXED and completely irrelevant in this case. It's not like you have a variable aperture on the lens so you can adjust it.
What matters in his case is the shutter speed and the exposure time.
And no, normal timelapse WON'T work because the shutter speed will be low (fast) and the phone will try to compensate by pushing the ISO high. You'll end up with very dark scenes and TONS of noise.
And what makes Astro mode very important is the FRAME STACKING. Frame stacking reduces the overall noise and increases the "quality" of the image.
Deadmau-five said:
Just wondering if there's any way I can get an astrophotography time lapse greater than 1 second? I would love to have 60 seconds, but I know it would probably take 4 hours or something.
Just wondering if this is possible or there's any third party apps that might be able to do this (take a longer exposure than the 4 minutes that astrophotography takes)?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not with stock camera.
You can try MotionCam Pro for that. It has a timelapse option where you can set your exposure time even to 15 seconds.
MotionCam is mainly for RAW video recording, but you can do photos and time-lapses. The output is absolutely GREAT. You're working with a RAW VIDEO basically and the quality is not comparable to ANY other app.
I had one Astro timelapse from it but I can't seem to find it now. It's sh**y weather outside now so can't do even a short one. I could do just a daylight one so you can see what quality I'm talking about here.
Uploaded a screenshot of the viewfinder. As you can see on the SS, you can adjust the ISO and shutter speed (among many other things) and do a timelapse.
This is basically taking RAW shots that you can later post process with various editing software like, Davinci Resolve, Adobe Premiere, Vegas, etc...
What you get is a video quality on the level of a DSLR and BETTER because there is no post-processing involved on the phone, it's basically RAW DNG images taken (sequence) that you can export (render) into a video at your QUALITY choice with YOUR post-processing involved.
Here is one sample I shot at and rendered to 4k60 (no color grading, just stock output).
Keep in mind that this is YOUTUBE, the quality of the original video is FAR better.
JohnTheFarm3r said:
You're talking about Aperture that is FIXED and completely irrelevant in this case. It's not like you have a variable aperture on the lens so you can adjust it.
What matters in his case is the shutter speed and the exposure time.
And no, normal timelapse WON'T work because the shutter speed will be low (fast) and the phone will try to compensate by pushing the ISO high. You'll end up with very dark scenes and TONS of noise.
And what makes Astro mode very important is the FRAME STACKING. Frame stacking reduces the overall noise and increases the "quality" of the image.
Click to expand...
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I know the aperture is fixed that's why i said it should work given the astrophotography mode time lapse is made up from the 16 images taken when the mode is active and not once the images have been stacked in to a single image. Given the way you talk you of all people should appreciate just how fast f1.85 is, not a single one of my Canon L lenses is that fast or even comes anywhere close to it.
The OP has nothing to lose by giving it a go before recommending extra software and shooting raw (it is raw BTW if we are getting picky, it isn't an acronym for anything).
MrBelter said:
I know the aperture is fixed that's why i said it should work given the astrophotography mode time lapse is made up from the 16 images taken when the mode is active and not once the images have been stacked in to a single image. Given the way you talk you of all people should appreciate just how fast f1.85 is, not a single one of my Canon L lenses is that fast or even comes anywhere close to it.
The OP has nothing to lose by giving it a go before recommending extra software and shooting raw (it is raw BTW if we are getting picky, it isn't an acronym for anything).
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Where did I say ANYTHING against the fixed aperture of F1.85? I just said that since it's fixed, it's not relevant to the "settings" he uses since he CAN'T change the aperture value anyway.
It's not about "losing" anything, it's about the technical part of understanding that your recommendation won't work because it doesn't use long exposure shutter speeds or frame stacking.
By NOT using frame stacking, the noise will be horrible and there is little much you can do with post-processing without killing completely the "details" on the photo by suppressing both luma and chroma noise.
Another thing is that regular timelapse doesn't push long exposures...It's just not meant to be used for "astro", that's all.
Erm ok fella but how do you think this was all done before Google and its wonderful computational photography came along?
My point about the aperture is it is very fast so it being fixed is not irrelevant at all given it is the only chance of this even working, the OP may have tried it at 0.5x or 5x where the apertures are much slower, the OP has absolutely nothing to lose by giving it a go, it might be crap, you might end up with only the brightest objects in the sky, you might end up with a noisy mush and yet it might be good fun who knows.
Sadly there is always one person that comes along and stomps on the parade because they know best though isn't there?
MrBelter said:
Erm ok fella but how do you think this was all done before Google and its wonderful computational photography came along?
My point about the aperture is it is very fast so it being fixed is not irrelevant at all given it is the only chance of this even working, the OP may have tried it at 0.5x or 5x where the apertures are much slower, the OP has absolutely nothing to lose by giving it a go, it might be crap, you might end up with only the brightest objects in the sky, you might end up with a noisy mush and yet it might be good fun who knows.
Sadly there is always one person that comes along and stomps on the parade because they know best though isn't there?
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It was done in a way that results were not even close to what we have today. Why use "outdated" methods when we have these VERY capable devices?
The app I suggested is great and has exactly what is he looking for.
Your logic of "How did we do this before XY time" is equal to "Let's just ride horses instead of cars because that's how we did it before". lmao