Hi All
I, like many people, use my orbit and now orbit 2 as an mp3 player. I have a few headphone adapters which allows me to use normal headphones which sound much better than the stock o2 ones. Not a bad solution however when a call comes in you have to unplug the headphone adapter to allow the phone mic to work. Having the adapter plugged in disables the phone mic.
I was wonder if anyone had any ideas on how I could 'fix' the headphone adapter so that it no longer disabled the mic. The theory is that should a call come in i can keep my headphones on and simply hold the phone up to my mouth to talk. My look a bit odd but it will save all that unplugging/replugging.
Thanks in advance
Jeff
found this...
http://www.tracyandmatt.co.uk/blogs/index.php/2006/09/10/htc_hermes_usb_connector_pin_config
assuming it's the same...do you think I just break off pin 1 ?
thanks again.
Jeff
wertert said:
found this...
http://www.tracyandmatt.co.uk/blogs/index.php/2006/09/10/htc_hermes_usb_connector_pin_config
assuming it's the same...do you think I just break off pin 1 ?
thanks again.
Jeff
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I doubt it's that simple. I really, really wish I could find it again but floating around somewhere on the web is a site that has a proper wiring diagram as well as just the pinouts.
From memory I think there's a pin held low (or maybe high) somewhere to tell the device that the adaptor is plugged in. I don't think that just the presence of a connection to pin 1 is what does it.
My suggestion is to open up the plug on your least-favourite adaptor (to experiment in case you trash it) and look for internal links between pins. My guess would be that either one of pins 4 or 5 is not a genuine Gnd signal but is actually a pin that is held low (i.e. set to Gnd) by the headset adaptor via a link from one of the genuine Gnd signals coming in on USB pin A or the other one of pin 4 or 5 . Alternatively one of pins 4 or 5 might be asserted high by a bridge to pin E. Finally the USB NC pin (pin B) might be the detector pin and asserted either high or low via a link to one of the Gnd or +5V input pins.
What you really have to hope for though is that two of the above are true because if there is only a single pin on the plug that is either asserted high or low to allow the detection of the presence of the headset then you're really out of luck because it is then extremely unlikely that it will separately detect that the speakers are plugged in but the mic isn't so, when you identify and disable the appropriate link, you will probably also re-enable the speaker in the handset as well as activating the mic.
All the above is guesswork I'm afraid, but I am a computer hardware designer so it's not totally uneducated guesswork, so you really will have to experiment or find that wiring schematic I spoke about, but the basic message is to look for links asserting some detector pin (or pins) high or low on the connector.
- Julian
P.S. I can't think of any way that you'll break anything just by cutting links but be very careful not to short out any existing connections because that could damage your device and don't create your own extra links unless you know exactly what you're doing.
Hi there guys.
I just bought a piece of Eonon GA8157 from Eonon. After the install, i got a few small issues (or big, depending on my mood ). Although the biggest of them is that my rear amplifier, that amplifies the subwoofer and the rear speakers isn't working, i have no ideea why, because i have alot of cables, and they were just plug and play.
My problem is the internet. I have two modems along with sim cards inserted. One is ZTE MF667 and the other is ZTE K3565-Z. None of them works. I don't know if there is a list of supported modems, but i thought that they were just plug and play.
From what i understand, i can however make these work if i root my device. I'm great at rooting mobile devices, but i don't want to ruin something to this head unit because it seems hard to modify something.
So, that is the question. Can i root this head unit, or install another firmware, or something to make this usb modems work?
If not, can you recomend me another modem? this unit is dead without internet connection, and i don't want to drain my phone battery by hotspotting it.
Operation System Android 7.1
CPU Processor RK3188 1.6GHz Cortex A9 Quad-Core
RAM SAMSUNG DDR3, 2GB
Memory 16 GB
Based on what i read, i guess that my device is PX3.
Thank you, in advance!
Alin.
I have a 2007 A4 with a MTCD_XRC head unit and I also have the rear amp, but I notice that the rear speakers are much lower then the fronts. I bought a line level converter and was messing with that and a ground loop isolator to get rid of the engine noise. But I have noticed after messing with it, even without ANY rca cables plugged in I still get audio out haha. I have looked at the wiring and I believe what needs to happen to make things totally correct is you need to rewire the back rca cables to go through the converter and completely bypass the rear amp as the head unit has enough juice to power all of the speakers. I also noticed after messing with things that I no longer needed the isolator on any of the speakers and I just moved the center to the rear a few click and it seems to level things out for the time being.
I've messed with a Huewei Cricket USB 4g dealio here and I was able to kind of get it working by using the PPP widget, but I was not getting connected, but the lights were changing so I am pretty sure its working, it just needs some fine tuning (I have project fi as my service provider)
I can try to help ya out if you need a hand, but I if you look further into some of the stuff I have mentioned I think you can figure it out.
Hi, thank you for your comment!
I was thinking at the same ideea yesterday. The amplifier from the unit is very powerfull, much powerfull than the audi one. My front speakers are more powerfull than ever, yet, my back speakers aren't.
My ideea was to rewire the back speakers to the back of the head unit, and connect them in line, but i have no ideea how the subwoofer works. I didn't saw any wires for it. Maybe he's connected in line with the rear speakers?
Fakken said:
Hi, thank you for your comment!
I was thinking at the same ideea yesterday. The amplifier from the unit is very powerfull, much powerfull than the audi one. My front speakers are more powerfull than ever, yet, my back speakers aren't.
My ideea was to rewire the back speakers to the back of the head unit, and connect them in line, but i have no ideea how the subwoofer works. I didn't saw any wires for it. Maybe he's connected in line with the rear speakers?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The built in sub runs off of the rear amp as well. I disconnected and removed that a long time ago and I have a box in my trunk with 2 x 12 inch subs and a separate amp in the back left (It used to be mounted on the back side in the truck of a rear seat). And now with the android unit I ran a dedicated RCA from the back to the trunk for my external amp, I used to run it off of the line outs I tapped into on the rear stock amp.
So if you just wire to the rear speakers directly you should be good.
Thank you!
That was exactly what the chinese guys from eonon said today.
Rewire the cables and i should be good.
I will try this and see if it works along with the sub.
If not, i will rip all the wires, rewire the rear speakers directly to the head unit and buy an aftermarket active subwoofer, and connect it to the sub RCA of the unit.
End of story
Fakken said:
Thank you!
That was exactly what the chinese guys from eonon said today.
Rewire the cables and i should be good.
I will try this and see if it works along with the sub.
If not, i will rip all the wires, rewire the rear speakers directly to the head unit and buy an aftermarket active subwoofer, and connect it to the sub RCA of the unit.
End of story
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not exactly the same, but some good similar info just to dig through to get ideas, I do not agree with all of it but just good to mull over. I have so many pages saved of people talking about similar stuff when I was doing research on mine haha.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7158675-Head-Unit-Recommendation/page2
I have a Navifly 7862 head unit and up until now have not bothered to add a rear cam to integrate into the head unit. My car has a separate factory rear cam that has the monitor integrated into the rear vision mirror.
So due to a rainy weekend, I decided to add a new AHD cam. Cam is wired to the reverse light. My 6m RCA plus power lead at the head unit gets 11 volts when reverse gear is triggered. The RCA gets about 0.5 volts.
The options to connect to the 11 (12) volt red power to the head unit are wires called "Camera B+" (red), "IR" (grey), "Brake In" (pink) and two different unnamed yellow wires that are all running from the same connector from the head unit.
The 11 volt red power is connected to Camera B + yet when in reverse the head unit screen does not change. I have tried the live 11 volt line on IR, Brake In and the 2 yellow wires to try and get the head unit to switch to rear cam mode but I cannot get that to happen.
eve if the camera was faulty, I would expect to see the head unit change from home screen to a blank screen that states "no signal" or similar.
Can anyone suggest what the issue might be. I have looked through the settings but am yet to find anything to force the head unit to change to rear cam mode.
ludditefornow said:
I have a Navifly 7862 head unit and up until now have not bothered to add a rear cam to integrate into the head unit. My car has a separate factory rear cam that has the monitor integrated into the rear vision mirror.
So due to a rainy weekend, I decided to add a new AHD cam. Cam is wired to the reverse light. My 6m RCA plus power lead at the head unit gets 11 volts when reverse gear is triggered. The RCA gets about 0.5 volts.
The options to connect to the 11 (12) volt red power to the head unit are wires called "Camera B+" (red), "IR" (grey), "Brake In" (pink) and two different unnamed yellow wires that are all running from the same connector from the head unit.
The 11 volt red power is connected to Camera B + yet when in reverse the head unit screen does not change. I have tried the live 11 volt line on IR, Brake In and the 2 yellow wires to try and get the head unit to switch to rear cam mode but I cannot get that to happen.
eve if the camera was faulty, I would expect to see the head unit change from home screen to a blank screen that states "no signal" or similar.
Can anyone suggest what the issue might be. I have looked through the settings but am yet to find anything to force the head unit to change to rear cam mode.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Go to factory settings and find a setting called "Prohibit Reverse", switch this setting and try again.
ludditefornow said:
I have a Navifly 7862 head unit and up until now have not bothered to add a rear cam to integrate into the head unit. My car has a separate factory rear cam that has the monitor integrated into the rear vision mirror.
So due to a rainy weekend, I decided to add a new AHD cam. Cam is wired to the reverse light. My 6m RCA plus power lead at the head unit gets 11 volts when reverse gear is triggered. The RCA gets about 0.5 volts.
The options to connect to the 11 (12) volt red power to the head unit are wires called "Camera B+" (red), "IR" (grey), "Brake In" (pink) and two different unnamed yellow wires that are all running from the same connector from the head unit.
The 11 volt red power is connected to Camera B + yet when in reverse the head unit screen does not change. I have tried the live 11 volt line on IR, Brake In and the 2 yellow wires to try and get the head unit to switch to rear cam mode but I cannot get that to happen.
eve if the camera was faulty, I would expect to see the head unit change from home screen to a blank screen that states "no signal" or similar.
Can anyone suggest what the issue might be. I have looked through the settings but am yet to find anything to force the head unit to change to rear cam mode.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
By the way...
You are forcing 12V into the Videosignal line... What are you doing there?
I just had a look at your attached picture. You should not wonder if the radio is now in the eternal hunting-grounds.
If you don´t know how to install a radio, please search for one who can do that without burning down your car. On top the 12V line just twisted together... Whow...Never seen someone doing such bad things in one single posting.
rigattoni said:
By the way...
You are forcing 12V into the Videosignal line... What are you doing there?
I just had a look at your attached picture. You should not wonder if the radio is now in the eternal hunting-grounds.
If you don´t know how to install a radio, please search for one who can do that without burning down your car. On top the 12V line just twisted together... Whow...Never seen someone doing such bad things in one single posting.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have temporarily twisted the wire for testing purposes. I solder and heat seal connections when confirmed. Are you always this critical of people?
So what voltage should be fed to the Camera B + line?
The directions was to tap into the reverse light (which is 12 volt) and send that to the power line that runs parallel with the RCA. Are you suggesting that I shouldn't?
Well how about helping here instead of criticising, please, if you know better.
ludditefornow said:
I have temporarily twisted the wire for testing purposes. I solder and heat seal connections when confirmed. Are you always this critical of people?
So what voltage should be fed to the Camera B + line?
The directions was to tap into the reverse light (which is 12 volt) and send that to the power line that runs parallel with the RCA. Are you suggesting that I shouldn't?
Well how about helping here instead of criticising, please, if you know better.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not critical- post is accurate and suggests finding a skilled installer to assist you. Poking power on to the head unit wires without understanding is a sure way to break the unit or vehicle.
marchnz said:
Not critical- post is accurate and suggests finding a skilled installer to assist you. Poking power on to the head unit wires without understanding is a sure way to break the unit or vehicle.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are 5 in lines to tap.
The literature that came with the cam as well as all videos online from the likes of Joying that I found show a 12v tap from the rear reverse light for the trigger.
You posted recently about 4PDA not being wanted at XDA because the silo knowledge.
Are you not willing to take a few minutes to actually share knowledge when there is a direct lack of knowledge from suppliers?
Well I found the issue and somehow 'managed' not to destroy my head unit, my car, my house or the local power station.
All connections are nicely soldered and heat shrink wrapped now that I have a permanent fix.
The initial attempt at connecting the 12v line to Camera B + as noted on other how tos did not work.
To stay in the spirit of XDA (unlike the postings of some) I would like to advise that the wiring diagram from Navifly was incorrect.They have the pin 2 on the main connector as the reverse that feeds the CAN module. Pin 2 carries a constant 12v. Pin 3 (pink on my HU connector) carries zero voltage. I tapped pin 3 pink wire on the way to the CAN and added the red daughter wire on my 6m long RCA cable.
My red daughter wire is fed 12v from my rear reverse lamp. Reverse lamp also feeds the reverse cam.
I hope this assists someone in future.
ludditefornow said:
ludditefornow said:
Well I found the issue and somehow 'managed' not to destroy my head unit, my car, my house or the local power station.
All connections are nicely soldered and heat shrink wrapped now that I have a permanent fix.
The initial attempt at connecting the 12v line to Camera B + as noted on other how tos did not work.
To stay in the spirit of XDA (unlike the postings of some) I would like to advise that the wiring diagram from Navifly was
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You did it. Thanks for posting your findings, I believe this has been posted about before.
I wouldn't recommend projecting at those that have actually spent hours to days developing methods, tools and helping others here.
All that because of the canbus. i believe they send you a canbus box that only works for steering wheel buttons and nothing else. i had the same problem and solved it like you did.
ludditefornow said:
To stay in the spirit of XDA (unlike the postings of some) I would like to advise that the wiring diagram from Navifly was incorrect.They have the pin 2 on the main connector as the reverse that feeds the CAN module. Pin 2 carries a constant 12v. Pin 3 (pink on my HU connector) carries zero voltage. I tapped pin 3 pink wire on the way to the CAN and added the red daughter wire on my 6m long RCA cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry to say, but the wiring diagram is not really incorrect. It always depends on the aftermarket cam you use. But it is never a good idea to feed 12V into a CPU which just expects a video signal.
...and if you have a look at the wiring diagram of the camera, it shows 2 different ways to get the cam feeded with 12V.
The first one is the yellow connector which has a red wire coming out.
If you would have used this one, plug it into the "CAM IN" connector of your unit and the red one to the Back wire of your unit you would have been okay.
Using the back light to feed the camera is in most cases not necessary.
By the way... As I have seen that you feed the Video-In chinch-connector with 12V, I really was the meaning that you even don´t know anything about that what you did. I just gave the tip to search someone who knows what he does. I didn´t see any chance to start from scratch to teach you how to do.
I am on top really pissed if I see someone just wiggling cables together.
I just counted 1+1 and decided that I have to stop you doing strange things, which could lead to shorts and such things.
So... if it is working now as expected: Fine! ...and thanks for posting.
rigattoni said:
Sorry to say, but the wiring diagram is not really incorrect. It always depends on the aftermarket cam you use. But it is never a good idea to feed 12V into a CPU which just expects a video signal.
...and if you have a look at the wiring diagram of the camera, it shows 2 different ways to get the cam feeded with 12V.
The first one is the yellow connector which has a red wire coming out.
If you would have used this one, plug it into the "CAM IN" connector of your unit and the red one to the Back wire of your unit you would have been okay.
Using the back light to feed the camera is in most cases not necessary.
By the way... As I have seen that you feed the Video-In chinch-connector with 12V, I really was the meaning that you even don´t know anything about that what you did. I just gave the tip to search someone who knows what he does. I didn´t see any chance to start from scratch to teach you how to do.
I am on top really pissed if I see someone just wiggling cables together.
I just counted 1+1 and decided that I have to stop you doing strange things, which could lead to shorts and such things.
So... if it is working now as expected: Fine! ...and thanks for posting.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
First, the diagram is incorrect and has nothing to do with the aftermarket cam. He didn't feed any 12v to video signal, the red wire is the trigger for the head unit to switch to reverse cam input, the 12v from the head unit is to feed the camera and doesn't need to be connected when you feed the camera from the reverse light. When you put the reverse the head unit must switch to reverse cam input if the canbus box is correct for your car, in this case and mines as well it isn't. The wire he shows came from the canbus box must have 12v when you put in reverse but no 12v
leo06 said:
First, the diagram is incorrect and has nothing to do with the aftermarket cam. He didn't feed any 12v to video signal, the red wire is the trigger for the head unit to switch to reverse cam input, the 12v from the head unit is to feed the camera and doesn't need to be connected when you feed the camera from the reverse light. When you put the reverse the head unit must switch to reverse cam input if the canbus box is correct for your car, in this case and mines as well it isn't. The wire he shows came from the canbus box must have 12v when you put in reverse but no 12v
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, but you are wrong.
The head unit reacts on a voltage difference to switch to the back view camera. It´s not needed to have 12V feeded to the head unit.
CAM-IN from the head unit expects the video signal nothing else.
rigattoni said:
Sorry, but you are wrong.
The head unit reacts on a voltage difference to switch to the back view camera. It´s not needed to have 12V feeded to the head unit.
CAM-IN from the head unit expects the video signal nothing else.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, you are wrong. The cam in expects video and that what gets. The 12v from the head unit is to feed the camera but if you already feed the camera with reverse light not needed to be connected. If the canbus box worked properly, all will work too. Do you have the head unit and everything is working? The diagram is incorrect because the brake ctl is not the brake ctl but the reverse camera trigger
marchnz said:
You did it. Thanks for posting your findings, I believe this has been posted about before.
I wouldn't recommend projecting at those that have actually spent hours to days developing methods, tools and helping others here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I searched thoroughly and did not find the answer. Why didn't you link me to the answer?
Based on your condescending and unhelpful posts to me, I don't see why projecting at you in this instance is not unwarranted. You had the answers and you chose to not assist. You siloed.
"Prohibit Reverse", was a total red herring and forced me to add more variables into my testing. I now had to test multiple software options and wiring config as well as the incorrect Navifly info very time consuming.
If you feel I need to be banned for calling out this condescending, repugent and unhelpful responses. Go ahead. I have helped more people in this site than I have received and frankly I don't want to be a part of something where your attitude is acceptable.
If you haven't fixed it. I had the same problem with different HU.
I tought my camera or my wiring at the back of the car was wrong.
The reverse camera (12+) signal cable from the back reverse light goes to the REVERSE or BACK cable mostly at the main harness of the HU. In my case it was orange green from XTRONS.
The other red cable at the Rerverse Camera Video In harness is the so called "CAMERA POWER CABLE 12v" it's very irritating that both cable are red and have something to do with camera.
After restarting the HU it worked.
leo06 said:
Sorry, you are wrong. The cam in expects video and that what gets. The 12v from the head unit is to feed the camera but if you already feed the camera with reverse light not needed to be connected. If the canbus box worked properly, all will work too. Do you have the head unit and everything is working? The diagram is incorrect because the brake ctl is not the brake ctl but the reverse camera trigger
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That wire ( A5? ) isn't it meant to tell the headunit to switch to the reverse camera? Because if I would disconnect the reverse camera, it would still be triggered and show a black screen with the car on the left.
But no image, as the reverse camera is off: the wiring diagram that Mekede and also Ekiy provided was correct. Just there are two methods, one for when you need to use Canbus. And the other more common method, which uses the reverse light for trigger and to power the reverse camera.
DexterMorganNL said:
That wire ( A5? ) isn't it meant to tell the headunit to switch to the reverse camera? Because if I would disconnect the reverse camera, it would still be triggered and show a black screen with the car on the left.
But no image, as the reverse camera is off: the wiring diagram that Mekede and also Ekiy provided was correct. Just there are two methods, one for when you need to use Canbus. And the other more common method, which uses the reverse light for trigger and to power the reverse camera.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it is swapped, the brake ctl is the reverse camera trigger. In navifly there is no lose cable for triggering, the cable is connected to the canbus box and if that is not working you have to cut the wire and connect the red cable to reverse light and to headunit
Hello @ludditefornow , my iDoing head unit have the same your error. Screen blank when back cable to 12v
I bring mine to a repair center, this error from damaged ic named tp9950
You can search, this tp9950 to control the camera signal
I can not replace this ic, and waiting for new ic, i hope new ic will resolve the camera error.
If you have other solution, please share.
Thank you.
nguyenlaman said:
Hello @ludditefornow , my iDoing head unit have the same your error. Screen blank when back cable to 12v
I bring mine to a repair center, this error from damaged ic named tp9950
You can search, this tp9950 to control the camera signal
I can not replace this ic, and waiting for new ic, i hope new ic will resolve the camera error.
If you have other solution, please share.
Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Laman, the issue for me was that the wiring diagram from Navifly was incorrect. Look here at wiring. https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/...g-hu-into-rear-cam-mode.4479369/post-87280853
When I had the cam wired I needed to put the car in reverse and on the back screen I long pressed on the screen and some options popped up. After that I had cam work.
Let us know if that works for you.
Guys, please help me.
I've installed my Android unit, all okish, but I'm having trouble with the reverse camera.
The instructions are identical with the photo posted by ludditefornow, just in black and white.
The camera connector that goes into the unit has the yellow video jack labeled cam in. Then it has 3 other wires: IR, Break and CCD.
The little red wire on the cable is connected to the IR wire. On the other end it's connected to the 12v reverse light cable.
When in reverse, the unit switches, the parking sensors appear, but there's no picture.
The unit has 2 modes for the reverse camera, AHD (which the camera is supposed to be), and TV. I've tried them both.
One time, just once, the camera showed a black and white, scrambled picture.
I don't know what I'm doing wrong. Please help.
I'll attach a photo with the current wiring.
Good afternoon,
Recently bought a non-brand headunit from Amazon seller "Biorunn".
I received my unit and it works well. Seller confirmed it is a Mekede M700S.
I ran into an issue when trying to setup the RCA connections.
They provide 2 harnesses - 1 with "Right" and "Left" out. Yes, just generic left and right.
1 with "Rear Right" and "Rear Left".
The issue is that, the harness with right and left channels (same harness with 4G Sim Tray) connects fine, but there no where to connect my rear channel harness.
Am i missing something here? Am i supposed to use an RCA splitter for Front and Rear differentiation?
Then,
I installed Fake Device Test. To no surprise, it has faked the Android version, and possibly the RAM too?
I bought the 8GB/128GB model. Both the system and Device Test come back with 8GB recognized and installed, but only 6GB is usable. What's going on with the other 2GB? I know Android uses at most 500MB so that leaves 1.5GB unaccessable? That doesn't sound right to me. Also, the UIS7862 only supports up to 6GB, soooooo Scam?
I updated the firmware to Mariodantas's mod. That seemed to get the CANBus and steering wheel controls to work. Haven't tested TPMS yet but i would assume it works since SW controls, rear camera works. Also, unsure about the Mic.... will that work too or do i need to install the provided one.
As stated, this was purchased thru Amazon so i do have some buyer protection, but must act quick as i received the unit yesterday.
Thats all for now. Thank you in advance!
> Am i missing something here? Am i supposed to use an RCA splitter for Front and Rear differentiation?
depends on the vehicle-specific harness included with the unit. I've found that on many of them, they only provide a single set of RCA connections for both front/rear, having loops between the pins. What vehicle are you using this with? What's the harness look like? Does your car use an external amp to power some or all of the speakers? If not, you don't need to connect the RCAs at all.
> Also, the UIS7862 only supports up to 6GB, soooooo Scam?
RAM physically installed and usable by the SoC are two different things. Your unit has 8GB installed, 6GB of which is usable by the SoC.
> I updated the firmware to Mariodantas's mod. That seemed to get the CANBus and steering wheel controls to work.
would have no effect, CANBUS vehicle and box type must be selected properly in factory settings for steering wheel controls and other CAN-related items to work. Changing the kernel alone would not affect these functions