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Hallo,
I got my new MTCD head unit. Its this one:
http://www.erisinwholesale.com/special-car-dvd/audi/erisin-es3078a-7-android-51-car-dvd-gps-dab-for-audi-a4-497.html
I have dont done much testing yet, but i want to connect my external mic first.
The HU is delivered with an small additional harness that included a external mic and a 4-pin connector on the other end. (see attached photo - connector E)
I want to cut this harness and solder a standard mic-jack onto it.
(and then desolder the internal mic)
Does anyone know the pin-out of this 4-Pin connector?!
I guess this is standard on many of the newer MTCD units?!
check with ohmeter the ohm value between gnd and signal and use similar specs mic.
Dear OP, Im very interested in you project. I have nearly the same unit but for A3. I also wanted to wait with the mic until i come up with a better solution than using the one which came with it. Do you know how to disable the standard handsfree function of the car? Now the "Mode" button always messes with the Mode of the headunit. Where is the cars' mic plugged into? How can I access this spot?
in some (i think it was russian) forum i came across the ROM wich connects via Bluetooth to the standard handsfree of the car before calling. But with the standard Rom so far i was not able to conect to it.
PS: Does your unit snap into the DIN booth like the original radio? Mine does not snap in and therefore is kinda loose
i am not sure how to measure the correct ohm value of a mic.
If i connect my multimeter to the factory ext. mic, i see 1,325 kOhm
If i connect it to my parrot mic, i see 1,660kOhm (i have attached a photo of this mic)
But anyhow, i am more interessted in the 4-pin plug, this head unit uses for the ext. mic. hook up.
As you can see on the attached photos, the lower two pins are jumpered.
And the upper two pins go to the mic.
I also found, that one of those two lower pins is a 5V supply on the head unit.
So this harness of the factory external mic seems to have some sort of switch function also...
But i am not sure, what it does...
And to answer Mighty_X´s questions:
I have no "mode" button on my head unit. Not sure, what you mean.?!
On my older MTCB unit, i just cutted the wires to the internal mic, and connected my parrot mic to the ext. mic connection.
But here, on this new Erisin MTCD, all connectors at the back of the unit are different...
regarding accuracy of fit:
The head unit didn´t fit in perfectly. Its a little bit wider at the bottom, than the original radio. If you carefully push a little harder you get it into a very good position. The cars dashboard is flexible enough for that. But thats not really a problem and its definitely not loose.
Pedaaa said:
And to answer Mighty_X´s questions:
I have no "mode" button on my head unit. Not sure, what you mean.?!
On my older MTCB unit, i just cutted the wires to the internal mic, and connected my parrot mic to the ext. mic connection.
But here, on this new Erisin MTCD, all connectors at the back of the unit are different...
regarding accuracy of fit:
The head unit didn´t fit in perfectly. Its a little bit wider at the bottom, than the original radio. If you carefully push a little harder you get it into a very good position. The cars dashboard is flexible enough for that. But thats not really a problem and its definitely not loose.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your answer. I was refering to the Mode Button on the steering wheel.
Ahh, OK sorry
I only have the standard steering wheel without any buttons, so i can't comment on this
dont worry about 4pin conn, just check that the mic you want to use in head unit support that ohm input, otherwise the sound quality wont be good, just make "test-fail" until you get good result. just connect to 2 wires mic the mic you want to test...
But i do worry about this 4-Pin connector
If you connect the original ext.mic, the lower 2 pins are jumpered.
What internal effect would this have?
Is it just an input, that an ext. mic is connected?!
But why? Would the singals of the mic wont work without this input?
Or will this input maybe disable the internal mic?!
Then we wouldnt need to do the mod, by desolder or cut the internal mic on such units.
Thats just my thoughts, but i haven't done testing yet. Also i am not sure how i could figure it out exactly...
Pedaaa said:
But i do worry about this 4-Pin connector
If you connect the original ext.mic, the lower 2 pins are jumpered.
What internal effect would this have?
[..]
Thats just my thoughts[...]
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Click to collapse
Well, on my unit (Erisin 3047A) the ONLY reason why the lower 2 pins are "jumpered" is purely a mechanical issue: By having 4 wires and tied them together using a cable tie the two upper (small) cables are fixed in place. So: No actual use, just for mechanical reasons.
Did you have a cable tie on your 4 wires? From your pictures I cannot see it, perhaps you removed it?
Well, I just used my external micro from the installation before, and it works great.
Kind regards,
hardcoded74
Hi,
Ok, there were no reasons for my concerns.
I unsoldered the interal mic.
And then i soldered a headphone jack to the two wires of the original ext. mic harness.
The didnt touch the lower jumper wire.
And now:
It works great with my parrot mic! No echo, and really good quality in general! I am very happy now.
I also now installed a time-delay-relay for my rear view cam. Now the cam keeps going for apprx. 8 seconds, if i change to forward gears. Thats a great improvement also, that i can recommend
Pic of the modified harness
please poiint out, what headphone you used for this and the cables (by color) you connected to. (red to white for example)
thanks
Hello,
I use a PR2627 Parrot Twin Mic.
I cutted the standard ext mic and soldered a 2,5mm female jack instead of it. The white lead from the original cable goes to the "left" connection on the jack.
So the tip of the male 2,5mm pin will contact the white cable.
The black lead goes to the ground connection of the jack.
Thats it.
So, i use this Stereo mic only as a mono mic.
But it works great.
But i have to say also the original ext. mic. isnt that bad, if you disconnect the internal one.
I want to try to use the original Audi microphone. The ohmmeter says the Audi is 7,9kOhm and the mic wich came with the Erisin is 0.9kOhm. Is it possible to get good results here? What do you guys think?
I ll have to search were the wire goes wich is not to easy in Audi A3 (at least for me)
Edit: Like I thought the quality of the original mic used with the new head unit is pretty poor. dumb and very quiet. Not sure now if i get another mic, use the erisin one or maybe try a mic amplifier..
So if I understand this correct, the headunit keeps using the signal from the internal mic, even if there is an external mic connected? In essence, it gets mixed? No wonder everybody on the other end of the line is complaining that they don't understand a word I'm saying.
Is it easy to unsolder the internal mic?
HVB83 said:
So if I understand this correct, the headunit keeps using the signal from the internal mic, even if there is an external mic connected? In essence, it gets mixed? No wonder everybody on the other end of the line is complaining that they don't understand a word I'm saying.
Is it easy to unsolder the internal mic?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can someone confirm this or disagree?
Mighty_X said:
Can someone confirm this or disagree?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You couldnt find the answer in the entire thread devoted to this issue Yes; if an an external mic input is factory, it is in parallel with the internal mic. This is a rookie design mistake.
Is there a way to change sensitivity of the external mic input? Did not find an option in the factory settings..
I unsoldered the internal mic now too. After first tests I can say say that doing that had no effect on the input sound quality or anything at all. And i found out that the internal and external mic wich came with it arethe same piece of hardware. I still wonder if there is a way to increase intensity of the mic without going over hardware amplifier. Have a kinda newer Ersisin model I guess
Hi,
I have a KGL unit and this adapter plugs into my CANbus decoder box. http://imgur.com/a/z2CCI
It has AUX in but the main RCA harness already has an AUX in input. What exactly is this one for and what wires are going to the big plug on the end? I have nowhere to plug it into in my car.
stefcio007 said:
I have a KGL unit and this adapter plugs into my CANbus decoder box. http://imgur.com/a/z2CCI
It has AUX in but the main RCA harness already has an AUX in input. What exactly is this one for and what wires are going to the big plug on the end? I have nowhere to plug it into in my car.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your picture shows a CANBUS adapter. You plug the large connectors to:
Harness Connector from car.
Radio connector.
Headunit
And the extra wires and connectors will provide the extra functions: Backup video in, BACK, Amplifier, illumination, SWC,... If there is an extra AUX, it might be because your car has a custom AUX input in Glove box or other place, and this connector allows to plug directly this car cable to the headunit.
CANBUS are car dependent, there is no one size fits all, so this decoder has to be made specifically for your car model.
Hey guys,
Does any of you knows if the MTCD head-units provide 12v power over the FM antenna connector?
Most cars antennas these days require power either over the coaxial cable or separately.
My original multimedia system in the car had times better reception than my MTCD unit.
BTW my car is a Great Wall Hover H6 (also known as Haval H6) a Chinese SUV.
OrionBG said:
Hey guys,
Does any of you knows if the MTCD head-units provide 12v power over the FM antenna connector?
Most cars antennas these days require power either over the coaxial cable or separately.
My original multimedia system in the car had times better reception than my MTCD unit.
BTW my car is a Great Wall Hover H6 (also known as Haval H6) a Chinese SUV.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi There,
My MTCD (GS) unit has a separate "ANT" wire which is used to power the antenna, the antenna connector itself is not powered and I don't believe any of them are.
Hope that helps.
sirleeofroy said:
Hi There,
My MTCD (GS) unit has a separate "ANT" wire which is used to power the antenna, the antenna connector itself is not powered and I don't believe any of them are.
Hope that helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I remember the ANT wire and supposedly it is connected but still the reception is bad.
Most VAG cars for instance, after 1997 are using powered antennas and the stock radios are providing power to the antenna trough the antenna cable itself. There are many adapters for aftermarket radios like THIS one for instance.
I'm not sure from what car the Chinese copied the antenna assembly... the entire Dashboard looks very similar to a Honda CRV but who knows...
OrionBG said:
I remember the ANT wire and supposedly it is connected but still the reception is bad.
Most VAG cars for instance, after 1997 are using powered antennas and the stock radios are providing power to the antenna trough the antenna cable itself. There are many adapters for aftermarket radios like THIS one for instance.
I'm not sure from what car the Chinese copied the antenna assembly... the entire Dashboard looks very similar to a Honda CRV but who knows...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The adaptor you linked to is similar to what I use for my DAB+ however, my FM reception was fine before I was using that. I have the adaptor so that I can pick up DAB+ signal via my normal non-powered antenna.
Where have you connected the "ANT" wire?
sirleeofroy said:
The adaptor you linked to is similar to what I use for my DAB+ however, my FM reception was fine before I was using that. I have the adaptor so that I can pick up DAB+ signal via my normal non-powered antenna.
Where have you connected the "ANT" wire?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To be fair I don't remember, but I do remember something called antenna power (or something similar). I'll be upgrading my PX3 board to PX5 soon so I'll double check everything again.
OrionBG said:
Hey guys,
Does any of you knows if the MTCD head-units provide 12v power over the FM antenna connector?
Most cars antennas these days require power either over the coaxial cable or separately.
My original multimedia system in the car had times better reception than my MTCD unit.
BTW my car is a Great Wall Hover H6 (also known as Haval H6) a Chinese SUV.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's a separate wire, labeled many times ant_power or ant.. The cable-color is blue. It provides +12 at power on.
I have the same problem. I tried an adapter but no results.
If someone find a solution, it could be nice.
I have an Xtrons PF75ATTAR and it has developed a fault. It boots up fine and everything works as it should however there is no sound.
I have reinstalled the original Audi head unit and this works fine so the fault seems to lie with the Xtrons unit.
I contacted Xtrons and as I am not the original purchaser they can offer no support at all and suggested I buy a new unit. It is just still within 12-months warranty so I am trying to get hold of the guy I bought it from to see if he can arrange an RMA, however I need to try other options just in case I can't get hold of him or he won't cooperate.
I am not much of an electronics person (I have a soldering iron and a multimeter....) so I am not sure how to troubleshoot this.
The unit has a 'dongle' between the audio out on the rear of the head unit. This is encased in heat-shrink and I am not sure what it does, but is inline with the audio outs so I am wondering whether it might be this that is at fault?
Any help is appreciated
Andy
ADB100 said:
I have an Xtrons PF75ATTAR and it has developed a fault. It boots up fine and everything works as it should however there is no sound.
I have reinstalled the original Audi head unit and this works fine so the fault seems to lie with the Xtrons unit.
I contacted Xtrons and as I am not the original purchaser they can offer no support at all and suggested I buy a new unit. It is just still within 12-months warranty so I am trying to get hold of the guy I bought it from to see if he can arrange an RMA, however I need to try other options just in case I can't get hold of him or he won't cooperate.
I am not much of an electronics person (I have a soldering iron and a multimeter....) so I am not sure how to troubleshoot this.
The unit has a 'dongle' between the audio out on the rear of the head unit. This is encased in heat-shrink and I am not sure what it does, but is inline with the audio outs so I am wondering whether it might be this that is at fault?
Any help is appreciated
Andy
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Click to collapse
Hi there, do you have any pics of this "dongle"?
I'm just wondering if the speaker outputs have been converted to a low level output so they can be used as a line-in on an amp. If this is the case then the speaker outputs will have been spliced and effectively diverted from the loom which would result in no sound until you either use the converted outputs into a separate amp or reconnect them to the original wires so that you use the standard speaker outputs from the head unit.
I may be well of the mark here but seeing as I have just completed an install in my friends van with this same "spliced" setup, its worth checking out.
sirleeofroy said:
Hi there, do you have any pics of this "dongle"?
I'm just wondering if the speaker outputs have been converted to a low level output so they can be used as a line-in on an amp. If this is the case then the speaker outputs will have been spliced and effectively diverted from the loom which would result in no sound until you either use the converted outputs into a separate amp or reconnect them to the original wires so that you use the standard speaker outputs from the head unit.
I may be well of the mark here but seeing as I have just completed an install in my friends van with this same "spliced" setup, its worth checking out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't take these pictures myself, however this is the dongle.
It was working fine for about 6-months and I haven't changed anything. I got in the car one day and there was no sound. After about 20 minutes I started to hear some pops and feint audio. I stopped the car and turned the ignition off for a minute or so and then started it back up and the sound returned. The next time I got in the car there was no audio and stopping and starting didn't fix it.
ADB100 said:
I didn't take these pictures myself, however this is the dongle.
It was working fine for about 6-months and I haven't changed anything. I got in the car one day and there was no sound. After about 20 minutes I started to hear some pops and feint audio. I stopped the car and turned the ignition off for a minute or so and then started it back up and the sound returned. The next time I got in the car there was no audio and stopping and starting didn't fix it.
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Click to collapse
Ok, that's not what I was thinking....
That looks like the breakout for your line-out, do you run an amp with your head unit or just use the internal amp?
Your description of pops and feint audio with eventual lack of audio sounds like something has blown
sirleeofroy said:
Ok, that's not what I was thinking....
That looks like the breakout for your line-out, do you run an amp with your head unit or just use the internal amp?
Your description of pops and feint audio with eventual lack of audio sounds like something has blown
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My car has a Bose amp (factory fit).
Any ideas how to troubleshoot?
ADB100 said:
My car has a Bose amp (factory fit).
Any ideas how to troubleshoot?
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Click to collapse
Ok, I'm not familiar with Audi setups but I'm guessing the Bose amp still requires a 12v remote to switch it on, usually a blue wire from the head unit. Could be worth checking that for 12v on ignition.
My PX5 unit effectively has 2 blue remote wires, one called "ANT" and one called "AMP SWITCH" or something like that..... might be worth swapping those over if you have two like I do.
How is audio supplied to the amp? Is it via the line out RCA's or via the loom/harness?
Another thing to look at, and I know this will sound super silly but on my unit a couple of the connections on the rear are similar to one another and it could be relatively easy to plug something into the wrong port. I did it and wondered why my USB didn't work! I'm sure this is not the case but still worth checking.
sirleeofroy said:
Ok, I'm not familiar with Audi setups but I'm guessing the Bose amp still requires a 12v remote to switch it on, usually a blue wire from the head unit. Could be worth checking that for 12v on ignition.
My PX5 unit effectively has 2 blue remote wires, one called "ANT" and one called "AMP SWITCH" or something like that..... might be worth swapping those over if you have two like I do.
How is audio supplied to the amp? Is it via the line out RCA's or via the loom/harness?
Another thing to look at, and I know this will sound super silly but on my unit a couple of the connections on the rear are similar to one another and it could be relatively easy to plug something into the wrong port. I did it and wondered why my USB didn't work! I'm sure this is not the case but still worth checking.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The audio is supplied to the amp via a quad-lock connector. So the audio from the rear of the unit connects to this dongle on one side, out the other side of the dongle are four female RCA's. These are connected to four male RCA's that connect to the quad-lock connector. There are two blue wires labelled 'AMP-CON' that have male/female push-fit connectors and these are connected together - I am guessing this is the 12v to switch the amp on? There is also another blue wire labelled 'ANT' with a push-fit connector. This is connected to a green wire coming out of the antenna facra cable.
It was working and nothing has been disturbed so I am fairly sure its not been wired up incorrectly. I think something has broken...
I'll check with a multimeter that I am getting 12v on the AMP-CON cable from the back of the amp first.
Andy
OK, so armed with multimeter I decided to have a play with this earlier. It does appear that the AMP-CON wire is not delivering 12V and therefore not turning the Bose amp on.
If I disconnect the 12v wire from the dual fakra antenna adapter the sound kicks in, however the radio reception is dreadful. I believe the 12V wire is there to power an antenna signal booster integral to the car. If I measure the voltage with the 12v wire disconnected from the fakra adapter its 10.something volts, if I measure it with the 12v wire connected its 0.something volts. Is it likely this fakra adapter is faulty? It looks like a passive component?
Cheers
Andy
ADB100 said:
OK, so armed with multimeter I decided to have a play with this earlier. It does appear that the AMP-CON wire is not delivering 12V and therefore not turning the Bose amp on.
If I disconnect the 12v wire from the dual fakra antenna adapter the sound kicks in, however the radio reception is dreadful. I believe the 12V wire is there to power an antenna signal booster integral to the car. If I measure the voltage with the 12v wire disconnected from the fakra adapter its 10.something volts, if I measure it with the 12v wire connected its 0.something volts. Is it likely this fakra adapter is faulty? It looks like a passive component?
Cheers
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah good, I'm glad that you've narrowed it down! As far as I'm aware, these wires are 12v switched and are there simply to provide the signal for whatever device to turn on. If the AMP-CON wire has no voltage, you may just be able to use the same wire you use for your Antenna. I have done this before where I used the 12v switched wire from an antenna in the boot instead of running a remote wire the full length of the car.
I would be curious to find out why the AMP-CON wire does not supply voltage, it could be down to a broken wire somewhere or even a dodgy solder within the unit.
sirleeofroy said:
Ah good, I'm glad that you've narrowed it down! As far as I'm aware, these wires are 12v switched and are there simply to provide the signal for whatever device to turn on. If the AMP-CON wire has no voltage, you may just be able to use the same wire you use for your Antenna. I have done this before where I used the 12v switched wire from an antenna in the boot instead of running a remote wire the full length of the car.
I would be curious to find out why the AMP-CON wire does not supply voltage, it could be down to a broken wire somewhere or even a dodgy solder within the unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, thanks for taking the time to help out. I don't think I described the cabling correctly. The AMP-CON and the ANT come from the same pin in the connector that plugs into the rear of the head unit (one wire comes out and then it splits into two and there is a bit of heat-shrink around the join. If I disconnect the ANT cable from the green wire that comes from the fakra adapter there is sound and the cable goes +10v. If I connect it back up there is a low 'thud' as it makes contact, the sound stops and the voltage drops to 0.something. It seems the fakra adapter is dragging the voltage down, hence why I think this adapter might be faulty.
Andy
I have the same issue now. We’re you able to resolve this?
I am also having this issue.. My HU turns on. Everything works perfectly... Just no sound. None at all. No factory amp. In a 2002 Silverado. I don't know if its the internal amp or what. Ideas?
Hi,
I'm looking for new android device as replacement for my Bosch stock nav in Suzuki Vitara 2018 GLX. I'm looking at Teyes CC3 or Mekede M500S. I do have few prerequisites
must have options
- compatibility with stock rear camera
- compatibility with steering wheel commands
- compatibility with stock microphone
- compatibility with stock USB ports
nice to have options
- compatibility with stock GPS module (maybe by using FAKRA adapter?)
So far all info I got for M500S is that it cannot use stock rear camera. Is it true? Can it be done with some adapters?
Thank you.
Racker_CRO said:
Hi,
I'm looking for new android device as replacement for my Bosch stock nav in Suzuki Vitara 2018 GLX. I'm looking at Teyes CC3 or Mekede M500S. I do have few prerequisites
must have options
- compatibility with stock rear camera
- compatibility with steering wheel commands
- compatibility with stock microphone
- compatibility with stock USB ports
nice to have options
- compatibility with stock GPS module (maybe by using FAKRA adapter?)
So far all info I got for M500S is that it cannot use stock rear camera. Is it true? Can it be done with some adapters?
Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My Mekede M500s does all 4 of those (oem mic, usb, swc and oem reverse camera on my Kia Sportage.
It just depends on your cars camera, and whether the reseller supplies the necessary adapters.
For example with my car I had to add 2 terminals to the wiring Mekede sent me in order to get the oem mic working.
The head unit was capable of all 4 options you want but the wiring sent to me only supported 3 of the 4.
Look in to your cars camera, what format the video is, what connector it uses, and see if you can find a seller offering a cable to connect the camera just in case 1 doesn't come with the unit.
j0hn83 said:
My Mekede M500s does all 4 of those (oem mic, usb, swc and oem reverse camera on my Kia Sportage.
It just depends on your cars camera, and whether the reseller supplies the necessary adapters.
For example with my car I had to add 2 terminals to the wiring Mekede sent me in order to get the oem mic working.
The head unit was capable of all 4 options you want but the wiring sent to me only supported 3 of the 4.
Look in to your cars camera, what format the video is, what connector it uses, and see if you can find a seller offering a cable to connect the camera just in case 1 doesn't come with the unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you. I decided to go with Mekede and I bought adapter cable for rev camera. It should all arrive in 2 weeks so I will know than if that was a good choice .
Today I got my stock radio out so I can note all connectors and maybe map them with M500S ones.
Here is a picture of stock Vitara Bosch head unit with description for each connector
GPS - you need FAKRA to SMA adapter
ANT - provided with M500S radio
DAB - you need to buy USB DAB device and FAKRA to SMA adapter (antenna you get with USB radio is not needed)
AUX - not used
MIC - this will be an issue since M500S doesn't have any connector for using stock mic in roof
CAM - you need extra adapter so you can use your stock camera with M500S
USB - compatible with M500S connector + you will get 2 extra USB connectors you can use
H BRAKE - not used on M500S, on stock one you need it to set up AA or mirrorlink
ISO/MAIN - speakers, power, etc.
So only one issue remains and that is how to use stock mics. This is all theoretical for now because I'm still waiting for unit and adapters.
Br.
So device came and of course there are issues.
- USB OEM cable is NOT compatible with M500S port for one USB
- I cant get reverse camera to work. I even bought THIS cable but any way I connect it it doesn't work as it should. I either have revers picture all the time or I don't have it at all.
If anyone can help with camera I would appreciate it. M500S reverse cable has 3 wires labeled "IR", "BRAKE" and "12V CAMERA". Main ISO plug has one purple labeled "BACK". If I connect purple, red and blue from adapter I have picture from camera all the time (shift in any position, neutral, drive, reverese). If I connect only red and purple same thing but with black screen and guidelines.
Racker_CRO said:
So device came and of course there are issues.
- USB OEM cable is NOT compatible with M500S port for one USB
- I cant get reverse camera to work. I even bought THIS cable but any way I connect it it doesn't work as it should. I either have revers picture all the time or I don't have it at all.
If anyone can help with camera I would appreciate it. M500S reverse cable has 3 wires labeled "IR", "BRAKE" and "12V CAMERA". Main ISO plug has one purple labeled "BACK". If I connect purple, red and blue from adapter I have picture from camera all the time (shift in any position, neutral, drive, reverese). If I connect only red and purple same thing but with black screen and guidelines.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The camera should be fairly simple to fault find but the wiring depends on whether you are using a canbus or not.
Answer that and someone will help with connecting the camera properly.
No canbus is used nor it is need for Vitara as I was told.
I'm guessing purple REV wire should get power once I put it in reverse and switch screen to backup camera. I measured voltage on blue wire from adapter and there is no voltage while in reverse.
Solved it! Reverse signal 12V was coming from HANDBRAKE connector. I added extra wire from that pin to purple and blue wires and everthing works.
Racker_CRO said:
So device came and of course there are issues.
- USB OEM cable is NOT compatible with M500S port for one USB
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is this what you're looking for?
j0hn83 said:
Is this what you're looking for?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
YES! Thank you
Cable arrived and works like a charm. So far I managed to get almost all parts in Vitara to work with Mekede unit except external OEM mic. It will take some testing and soldering.