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Bluetooth Audio Adapter - BT to 1/8" stereo plug?

Ok, im my mind, this does not seem like much of a stretch, although i have not been able to find anything like i am thinking. What i picture is a relatively small (about 30 mm diameter) bluetooth adapter to stream audio too. The "button" would have a 1/8" stereo adapter coming out the back side so that you could plug this into a aux input on a car stereo, or whatever else. Right now, i have an 1/8" 90 degree adapter to a 2' patch cable to a 3/32" to 1/8" adapter, to the ever so wonderful HTC usb to 3/32" audio and power adapter. This is a pain in the ass. Bluetooth stereo headphones are out. Hell, bluetooth GPS recievers are out that are around the same size that i am thinking this (from what i know) non existant device should be. Can anyone help me out here? All i want is a (small) bluetooth device that has a 1/8" stereo jack on it to plug in my car without the need for any wires.
Does such a magical device exist? Cheers.
.eric

it exists I have one but I haven't used it with my XDA Flame yet
MSI made it, and there a new model out
I have this one, I think it uses A2DP
http://www.msicomputer.com/product/p_spec.asp?model=FS300&class=com
there's this one too
http://global.msi.com.tw/index.php?func=proddesc&prod_no=110&maincat_no=131

Tab 4 7.0 in Dash install

***THIS IS NOT A HOW TO INSTALL***
I have a 2008 Honda CRV EX-L and I wanted a touch screen display but didn't want to spend the money on a new head unit. So I decided to use an old single DIN Pioneer head unit with a double DIN dash kit and my Tab 4 7.0 (T237P) as my touch screen.
Materials used:
1) Samsung Galaxy Tab 4 7.0 (T237P)
2) Pioneer DEH-3200U
3) Honda Radio Harness Metra 70-1722
4) Scosche HAAB Honda Antenna Adapter Plug
5) Metra Axxess ASWC-1 Steering Wheel Control Interface
6) Car Charger DC Converter Module 12V To 5V 3A 15W with USB Cable to charge the tablet and power the Metra Axxess ASWC-1
7) USB Aux Bluetooth Adapter for audio to Pioneer DEH-3200U
8) USB Female Y Splitter to power the tablet and USB bluetooth adapter
9) Wire Taps so I can keep the factory harness in case I decide to install the factory radio again
10) thin heavy stock cardboard from binder and black t-shirt to cover the Pioneer DEH-3200U and to have something for the tablet to rest on

***reserved***
Update: v2.0 includes phone (Note 3) mount as well as the tablet mount, this way I can either use the tablet or my phone.

looks nice! this tablet is way better than "android auto's" android system! might do same! thanks for part list so i know something where start from!

Nice! Looks really clean

princeferoz said:
***THIS IS NOT A HOW TO INSTALL***
I have a 2008 Honda CRV EX-L and I wanted a touch screen display but didn't want to spend the money on a new head unit. So I decided to use an old single DIN Pioneer head unit with a double DIN dash kit and my Tab 4 7.0 (T237P) as my touch screen.
Materials used:
1) Samsung Galaxy Tab 4 7.0 (T237P)
2) Pioneer DEH-3200U
3) Honda Radio Harness Metra 70-1722
4) Scosche HAAB Honda Antenna Adapter Plug
5) Metra Axxess ASWC-1 Steering Wheel Control Interface
6) Car Charger DC Converter Module 12V To 5V 3A 15W with USB Cable to charge the tablet and power the Metra Axxess ASWC-1
7) USB Aux Bluetooth Adapter for audio to Pioneer DEH-3200U
8) USB Female Y Splitter to power the tablet and USB bluetooth adapter
9) Wire Taps so I can keep the factory harness in case I decide to install the factory radio again
10) thin heavy stock cardboard from binder and black t-shirt to cover the Pioneer DEH-3200U and to have something for the tablet to rest on
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And the software? What software are you using?

sweetbanana said:
And the software? What software are you using?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm currently using AutoMate. In the pictures I was using CarHomeUltra

Sorry to bother u mate, i havent gone through all the forum and i wanted to ask, is there a standalone rom tht i can just flash to an android tablet to perfom the in dash car audio, i mean jst like those android head units?

FM Antenna Question.

Hey guys,
Does any of you knows if the MTCD head-units provide 12v power over the FM antenna connector?
Most cars antennas these days require power either over the coaxial cable or separately.
My original multimedia system in the car had times better reception than my MTCD unit.
BTW my car is a Great Wall Hover H6 (also known as Haval H6) a Chinese SUV.

OrionBG said:
Hey guys,
Does any of you knows if the MTCD head-units provide 12v power over the FM antenna connector?
Most cars antennas these days require power either over the coaxial cable or separately.
My original multimedia system in the car had times better reception than my MTCD unit.
BTW my car is a Great Wall Hover H6 (also known as Haval H6) a Chinese SUV.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi There,
My MTCD (GS) unit has a separate "ANT" wire which is used to power the antenna, the antenna connector itself is not powered and I don't believe any of them are.
Hope that helps.

sirleeofroy said:
Hi There,
My MTCD (GS) unit has a separate "ANT" wire which is used to power the antenna, the antenna connector itself is not powered and I don't believe any of them are.
Hope that helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I remember the ANT wire and supposedly it is connected but still the reception is bad.
Most VAG cars for instance, after 1997 are using powered antennas and the stock radios are providing power to the antenna trough the antenna cable itself. There are many adapters for aftermarket radios like THIS one for instance.
I'm not sure from what car the Chinese copied the antenna assembly... the entire Dashboard looks very similar to a Honda CRV but who knows...

OrionBG said:
I remember the ANT wire and supposedly it is connected but still the reception is bad.
Most VAG cars for instance, after 1997 are using powered antennas and the stock radios are providing power to the antenna trough the antenna cable itself. There are many adapters for aftermarket radios like THIS one for instance.
I'm not sure from what car the Chinese copied the antenna assembly... the entire Dashboard looks very similar to a Honda CRV but who knows...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The adaptor you linked to is similar to what I use for my DAB+ however, my FM reception was fine before I was using that. I have the adaptor so that I can pick up DAB+ signal via my normal non-powered antenna.
Where have you connected the "ANT" wire?

sirleeofroy said:
The adaptor you linked to is similar to what I use for my DAB+ however, my FM reception was fine before I was using that. I have the adaptor so that I can pick up DAB+ signal via my normal non-powered antenna.
Where have you connected the "ANT" wire?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To be fair I don't remember, but I do remember something called antenna power (or something similar). I'll be upgrading my PX3 board to PX5 soon so I'll double check everything again.

OrionBG said:
Hey guys,
Does any of you knows if the MTCD head-units provide 12v power over the FM antenna connector?
Most cars antennas these days require power either over the coaxial cable or separately.
My original multimedia system in the car had times better reception than my MTCD unit.
BTW my car is a Great Wall Hover H6 (also known as Haval H6) a Chinese SUV.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's a separate wire, labeled many times ant_power or ant.. The cable-color is blue. It provides +12 at power on.

I have the same problem. I tried an adapter but no results.
If someone find a solution, it could be nice.

Faulty unit - no sound?

I have an Xtrons PF75ATTAR and it has developed a fault. It boots up fine and everything works as it should however there is no sound.
I have reinstalled the original Audi head unit and this works fine so the fault seems to lie with the Xtrons unit.
I contacted Xtrons and as I am not the original purchaser they can offer no support at all and suggested I buy a new unit. It is just still within 12-months warranty so I am trying to get hold of the guy I bought it from to see if he can arrange an RMA, however I need to try other options just in case I can't get hold of him or he won't cooperate.
I am not much of an electronics person (I have a soldering iron and a multimeter....) so I am not sure how to troubleshoot this.
The unit has a 'dongle' between the audio out on the rear of the head unit. This is encased in heat-shrink and I am not sure what it does, but is inline with the audio outs so I am wondering whether it might be this that is at fault?
Any help is appreciated
Andy

ADB100 said:
I have an Xtrons PF75ATTAR and it has developed a fault. It boots up fine and everything works as it should however there is no sound.
I have reinstalled the original Audi head unit and this works fine so the fault seems to lie with the Xtrons unit.
I contacted Xtrons and as I am not the original purchaser they can offer no support at all and suggested I buy a new unit. It is just still within 12-months warranty so I am trying to get hold of the guy I bought it from to see if he can arrange an RMA, however I need to try other options just in case I can't get hold of him or he won't cooperate.
I am not much of an electronics person (I have a soldering iron and a multimeter....) so I am not sure how to troubleshoot this.
The unit has a 'dongle' between the audio out on the rear of the head unit. This is encased in heat-shrink and I am not sure what it does, but is inline with the audio outs so I am wondering whether it might be this that is at fault?
Any help is appreciated
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi there, do you have any pics of this "dongle"?
I'm just wondering if the speaker outputs have been converted to a low level output so they can be used as a line-in on an amp. If this is the case then the speaker outputs will have been spliced and effectively diverted from the loom which would result in no sound until you either use the converted outputs into a separate amp or reconnect them to the original wires so that you use the standard speaker outputs from the head unit.
I may be well of the mark here but seeing as I have just completed an install in my friends van with this same "spliced" setup, its worth checking out.

sirleeofroy said:
Hi there, do you have any pics of this "dongle"?
I'm just wondering if the speaker outputs have been converted to a low level output so they can be used as a line-in on an amp. If this is the case then the speaker outputs will have been spliced and effectively diverted from the loom which would result in no sound until you either use the converted outputs into a separate amp or reconnect them to the original wires so that you use the standard speaker outputs from the head unit.
I may be well of the mark here but seeing as I have just completed an install in my friends van with this same "spliced" setup, its worth checking out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't take these pictures myself, however this is the dongle.
It was working fine for about 6-months and I haven't changed anything. I got in the car one day and there was no sound. After about 20 minutes I started to hear some pops and feint audio. I stopped the car and turned the ignition off for a minute or so and then started it back up and the sound returned. The next time I got in the car there was no audio and stopping and starting didn't fix it.

ADB100 said:
I didn't take these pictures myself, however this is the dongle.
It was working fine for about 6-months and I haven't changed anything. I got in the car one day and there was no sound. After about 20 minutes I started to hear some pops and feint audio. I stopped the car and turned the ignition off for a minute or so and then started it back up and the sound returned. The next time I got in the car there was no audio and stopping and starting didn't fix it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, that's not what I was thinking....
That looks like the breakout for your line-out, do you run an amp with your head unit or just use the internal amp?
Your description of pops and feint audio with eventual lack of audio sounds like something has blown

sirleeofroy said:
Ok, that's not what I was thinking....
That looks like the breakout for your line-out, do you run an amp with your head unit or just use the internal amp?
Your description of pops and feint audio with eventual lack of audio sounds like something has blown
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My car has a Bose amp (factory fit).
Any ideas how to troubleshoot?

ADB100 said:
My car has a Bose amp (factory fit).
Any ideas how to troubleshoot?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, I'm not familiar with Audi setups but I'm guessing the Bose amp still requires a 12v remote to switch it on, usually a blue wire from the head unit. Could be worth checking that for 12v on ignition.
My PX5 unit effectively has 2 blue remote wires, one called "ANT" and one called "AMP SWITCH" or something like that..... might be worth swapping those over if you have two like I do.
How is audio supplied to the amp? Is it via the line out RCA's or via the loom/harness?
Another thing to look at, and I know this will sound super silly but on my unit a couple of the connections on the rear are similar to one another and it could be relatively easy to plug something into the wrong port. I did it and wondered why my USB didn't work! I'm sure this is not the case but still worth checking.

sirleeofroy said:
Ok, I'm not familiar with Audi setups but I'm guessing the Bose amp still requires a 12v remote to switch it on, usually a blue wire from the head unit. Could be worth checking that for 12v on ignition.
My PX5 unit effectively has 2 blue remote wires, one called "ANT" and one called "AMP SWITCH" or something like that..... might be worth swapping those over if you have two like I do.
How is audio supplied to the amp? Is it via the line out RCA's or via the loom/harness?
Another thing to look at, and I know this will sound super silly but on my unit a couple of the connections on the rear are similar to one another and it could be relatively easy to plug something into the wrong port. I did it and wondered why my USB didn't work! I'm sure this is not the case but still worth checking.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The audio is supplied to the amp via a quad-lock connector. So the audio from the rear of the unit connects to this dongle on one side, out the other side of the dongle are four female RCA's. These are connected to four male RCA's that connect to the quad-lock connector. There are two blue wires labelled 'AMP-CON' that have male/female push-fit connectors and these are connected together - I am guessing this is the 12v to switch the amp on? There is also another blue wire labelled 'ANT' with a push-fit connector. This is connected to a green wire coming out of the antenna facra cable.
It was working and nothing has been disturbed so I am fairly sure its not been wired up incorrectly. I think something has broken...
I'll check with a multimeter that I am getting 12v on the AMP-CON cable from the back of the amp first.
Andy

OK, so armed with multimeter I decided to have a play with this earlier. It does appear that the AMP-CON wire is not delivering 12V and therefore not turning the Bose amp on.
If I disconnect the 12v wire from the dual fakra antenna adapter the sound kicks in, however the radio reception is dreadful. I believe the 12V wire is there to power an antenna signal booster integral to the car. If I measure the voltage with the 12v wire disconnected from the fakra adapter its 10.something volts, if I measure it with the 12v wire connected its 0.something volts. Is it likely this fakra adapter is faulty? It looks like a passive component?
Cheers
Andy

ADB100 said:
OK, so armed with multimeter I decided to have a play with this earlier. It does appear that the AMP-CON wire is not delivering 12V and therefore not turning the Bose amp on.
If I disconnect the 12v wire from the dual fakra antenna adapter the sound kicks in, however the radio reception is dreadful. I believe the 12V wire is there to power an antenna signal booster integral to the car. If I measure the voltage with the 12v wire disconnected from the fakra adapter its 10.something volts, if I measure it with the 12v wire connected its 0.something volts. Is it likely this fakra adapter is faulty? It looks like a passive component?
Cheers
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah good, I'm glad that you've narrowed it down! As far as I'm aware, these wires are 12v switched and are there simply to provide the signal for whatever device to turn on. If the AMP-CON wire has no voltage, you may just be able to use the same wire you use for your Antenna. I have done this before where I used the 12v switched wire from an antenna in the boot instead of running a remote wire the full length of the car.
I would be curious to find out why the AMP-CON wire does not supply voltage, it could be down to a broken wire somewhere or even a dodgy solder within the unit.

sirleeofroy said:
Ah good, I'm glad that you've narrowed it down! As far as I'm aware, these wires are 12v switched and are there simply to provide the signal for whatever device to turn on. If the AMP-CON wire has no voltage, you may just be able to use the same wire you use for your Antenna. I have done this before where I used the 12v switched wire from an antenna in the boot instead of running a remote wire the full length of the car.
I would be curious to find out why the AMP-CON wire does not supply voltage, it could be down to a broken wire somewhere or even a dodgy solder within the unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, thanks for taking the time to help out. I don't think I described the cabling correctly. The AMP-CON and the ANT come from the same pin in the connector that plugs into the rear of the head unit (one wire comes out and then it splits into two and there is a bit of heat-shrink around the join. If I disconnect the ANT cable from the green wire that comes from the fakra adapter there is sound and the cable goes +10v. If I connect it back up there is a low 'thud' as it makes contact, the sound stops and the voltage drops to 0.something. It seems the fakra adapter is dragging the voltage down, hence why I think this adapter might be faulty.
Andy

I have the same issue now. We’re you able to resolve this?

I am also having this issue.. My HU turns on. Everything works perfectly... Just no sound. None at all. No factory amp. In a 2002 Silverado. I don't know if its the internal amp or what. Ideas?

PX5 SWC Wiring

Hi guys. I have a PX5 unit that I'm installing in a 2017 F350 Super Duty. I am using THIS dash kit, which comes with a module that provides the wiring for some of the buttons on the new bezel, as well as a 3.5mm male jack for the SWC controls. The head unit has a KEY1, KEY2, and a ground for the SWC controls. I assume that I need to wire in a 3.5mm female jack to these to restore the SWC buttons, so I was curious if anyone has any experience with this. I've read that you need to use all three wires in some places, others say to not use the ground. Thanks in advance for any assistance.