[Q]Samsung Galaxy S7 power without battery - Samsung Galaxy S7 Questions and Answers

Not sure if I should post this as a question or create some sort of project thread, but I do have a few questions at the end, so I'll put it here for now.
I have an old Samsung Galaxy S7 (SM-G930V), and have started working on constructing something that will allow me to power it without a battery. I have a multimeter and I'm not afraid to use it!
I have gone through some previous threads I could find on a similar subject such as:
[Q] how to run a phone without battery only by connecting charger
[ Guide ] power Samsung phone without battery
First of all a bit of background. (You can skip this paragraph if TLDR) Since my Galaxy S5, I have used my phone constantly during the day to play a semi-graphics-intensive mobile game, which much of the time is spent idling with the game on and the phone laying on my desk. I have been playing it literally every day since. Years ago my S5's battery swelled up, and I was ready to upgrade anyway on my Verizon plan so I got an S7. It lasted for roughly 1.5 years until last week when I noticed the screen and back were swollen. It had started to bow out the front screen and rear glass, and peel them away from the phone. The screen still worked normally however. Anyway, a few days ago I upgraded to the Galaxy S9 (Yea I know I'm falling right into their planned obsolescence scheme ). So I would like to turn my S7 into a stationary gaming device to play this game and not burn out the battery on my new phone like I did to these last 2. (I have tried Bluestacks in the past but this game requires a lot of scrolling through menus of gear, heros, levels, etc, and the scrolling on Bluestacks was abysmal using the mousewheel or dragging across the screen with the mouse pointer.) I believe leaving them plugged in to the charger while constantly running this game likely caused the battery failure early. Also, I would rather not try this on my Galaxy S5, since the battery can be replaced easily, I can still use it as a replacement phone if needed, and it would not run the game very well anymore.
Anyway, on to the start of the project! Unlike my S5, the S7 does not have an easily removable battery, so I followed this guide mostly to remove the battery. I did not have any of the fancy heat stuff, but with the back already half popped off from the swollen battery, I was almost able to completely remove it with a screwdriver, but then it shattered on the last corner and sent flakes of glass flying everywhere.... well, I got the rest of the guide completed and the components/battery removed. Here is what I'm left with:
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First I tried the obvious test, and plugged the S7 into its usual charger. The battery charging icon flashes briefly on the screen, then goes blank for a few seconds, and repeats this pattern. If i push the power button like normal to turn on the phone, the Samsung startup screen flashes briefly on the screen and off again, and it resumes the flashing battery screen behavior. So I purchased a variable voltage adapter from Amazon to try to use for powering directly to the battery terminals inside the phone. I can move the slider to change voltage quite precisely according to my multimeter (unfortunately there isn't any display to see on the power supply itself), and since the battery is labled 3.85-4.4V, I've got it tuned to about 4.35V currently. The amperage reading at this setting shows 3.45A. So I can tell the lower voltage the slider is set to, the higher the amperage reading is. This should be plenty of power, and get around the issue most of the articles I found had where they tried to re-purpose USB connectors, which only put off about 500mA.
Now the first problem I have run into, is the connector on the S7's board for the battery is tiny! I'm going to label the pins now with my terrible paint skills for the multimeter resistance test later:
I have a soldering iron, but its a relatively large old thing and I wouldn't trust it for any thing more precise than 2mm. I've only used it in the past for large speaker wiring and such. I'm thinking about ripping the wiring assembly off of the top of this old battery, and seeing if something in it is more accessible to my soldering. But I'm hesitant for two reasons. First, its quite bloated, and I worry about it exploding if I rip off the wrong part... Second, the battery still works for the most part, and its the only way I have of powering up the phone currently to make sure the phone still works.
Here are my resistance readings on the pinouts so far in Ohms:
A to E = 1 (Must be same pin, will refer as AE from here)
D to H = 1 (Must be same pin, will refer as DH from here)
AE to B = Nothing
AE to C = 595
AE to DH = 630
AE to F = 260
AE to G = Nothing
DH to B = Nothing
DH to C = 880
DH to F = 1012
DH to G = Nothing
B C F G = Nothing in any combination
I came across this site in my searches that may answer some questions if it is accurate. But its written in very bad English so I cant understand most of it. Here is the diagram from the site:
The diagram seems to indicate my AE pins are ground, DH are +, C is the battery sensor, and F is something else. They mention BSI is very important, not sure what that is.
So my first few questions are:
1. Is this circuit board pinout accurate? Or is there a more official one available for this little battery port so I know what pin is what?
2. I've read some phones will shut off anyway under these methods unless a resistor is connected to one of the other pins besides + or -, once question 1 is answered, anyone know what resistance is required based on my readings, and what pin to connect?
3. Any advice on how to wire up the connector physically?
Thanks for reading, hope we can learn and figure some stuff out!

AYBFunkyMonkey said:
Not sure if I should post this as a question or create some sort of project thread, but I do have a few questions at the end, so I'll put it here for now...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't have this device but, the following area of the forum is specific to your device.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/galaxy-s7
The following is the Q&A thread that's specific to your device too.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=3341138
Good Luck!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I DO NOT provide support via PM unless asked/requested by myself. PLEASE keep it in the threads where everyone can share.

Ibuprophen said:
I don't have this device but, the following area of the forum is specific to your device.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/galaxy-s7
The following is the Q&A thread that's specific to your device too.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=3341138
Good Luck!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I DO NOT provide support via PM unless asked/requested by myself. PLEASE keep it in the threads where everyone can share.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Doh... my bad, didn't even realize there were device specific forums. Is there any way I can get my topic moved, or should I just repost over there?

AYBFunkyMonkey said:
Doh... my bad, didn't even realize there were device specific forums. Is there any way I can get my topic moved, or should I just repost over there?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is simple...
The following steps are the best way to have a thread moved by a Moderator (and they prefer to be asked by the specific member who opened the thread... that's you).
1) On the first post, select the bottom left triangle (reporting a post).
2) When the next page loads, select the reason on drop down section (at the bottom left of the text area), then select the one that states "Thread/post moving or maintenance".
3) Since this is a simple move, just type the reason within the text area. Something simple like "Can you please move this thread to the, more appropriate, " https://forum.xda-developers.com/galaxy-s7/help" area of the forum. (you can also tell them that "Ibuprophen is awesome!" LOL!).
4) Finally, select the "Send report" and you'll then be taken back to your thread.
Your all set!
The report is then listed on cue for a Moderator. It typically takes anywhere from 10 min to a day or two. The Moderators are very good and are pretty much on top of things.
Reporting a thread isn't intended as a bad thing. It just elevates having to send call-outs and PM's to a bunch of Moderators till one is available.
You've now graduated from the "Moving a thread 101" course! LMAO!!!
Good Luck!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I DO NOT provide support via PM unless asked/requested by myself. PLEASE keep it in the threads where everyone can share.

So I've been trying to figure out a way to test the phone with AC power before I make any permanent changes, such as removing the top of the battery. I need something like small alligator clips to grab onto the edges of the battery port on the board. Searching places like Amazon, the smallest I can find are 1" alligator clips, which I already have. They are too large to reliably grab the correct pins, and they feel too strong as well, I worry about cracking the small plastic piece. I need something that functions similar to an alligator clip, but due to the size of this port and how close the pins are together, it would need to be extremely small, like 0.5mm wide or so. Anybody know what type of connector would work for this?

If you're looking for a USB Pinout, I just attached a Standard Samsung USB Pinout that should coincide with your S7 as well.
Good Luck!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I DO NOT provide support via PM unless asked/requested by myself. PLEASE keep it in the threads where everyone can share.

Ibuprophen said:
If you're looking for a USB Pinout, I just attached a Standard Samsung USB Pinout that should coincide with your S7 as well.
View attachment 4531678
Good Luck!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I DO NOT provide support via PM unless asked/requested by myself. PLEASE keep it in the threads where everyone can share.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately, I believe a USB connection would be too low amperage for powering the phone while running 3D games, which is why I'm attempting to use that variable power supply instead.

Related

[Q] First among other questions - what do I do with the plug?

So I got my Captivate, and I have a Micro-USB plug already, six feet!! It is good for where I have it, but as we all know, the Captivate's USB plug is stupid.
Is it fine as is? It makes a connection, but it isn't "fully" in. Should I be concerned? Should I wear down one of the ends? What, er, should I do?
If the plug isn't fully in because it seems to be hitting the door, try pressing on the door again and see if it clicks. The port cover slides open and then hangs, you have to push a little harder and it will click all the way open.
You should use a razor blade or something of the like to trim the rubber around the MicroUSB plug, making it thinner like the usb cord that came with the phone. I had the same issue with a bunch of MicroUSB chargers I have, and 10 seconds with a razor fixed em all.
After a bunch of shaving and potentially damaging it, I think it was just the door not clicked far enough! But now it is a lot easier to tell what side is what
I miss my Touch Pro's charger, with the black and white braided cable. It fell flat too, instead of this cable, which is like a regular cable and sticks out. I have to knock it into shape I guess.
thehyecircus said:
So I got my Captivate, and I have a Micro-USB plug already, six feet!! It is good for where I have it, but as we all know, the Captivate's USB plug is stupid.
Is it fine as is? It makes a connection, but it isn't "fully" in. Should I be concerned? Should I wear down one of the ends? What, er, should I do?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I like how you didn't have the door all the way open, so you put us all in your boat by saying we all know the cable is stupid. Then ask if you should be concerned. Then to top it off, not say thank you to the person who suggested making sure the door was open.
I swear......
Edit: Oh, and the stock cable that the phone came with is curved on the plug making for easy and successful male to female connection.
From a phone
thehyecircus said:
So I got my Captivate, and I have a Micro-USB plug already, six feet!! It is good for where I have it, but as we all know, the Captivate's USB plug is stupid.
Is it fine as is? It makes a connection, but it isn't "fully" in. Should I be concerned? Should I wear down one of the ends? What, er, should I do?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What is "er", "stupid" about the Captivate plug?
The door is pretty god damn retarded.
Another day, another brilliant decision by Samsung, another facepalm by you.
thehyecircus said:
What, er, should I do?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Box it up and take it back.
boborone said:
I like how you didn't have the door all the way open, so you put us all in your boat by saying we all know the cable is stupid. Then ask if you should be concerned. Then to top it off, not say thank you to the person who suggested making sure the door was open.
I swear......
Edit: Oh, and the stock cable that the phone came with is curved on the plug making for easy and successful male to female connection.
From a phone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The cable is stupid. Number one, I am not using the stock cable, I made that clear at the start. Second, the port is recessed into the phone. There have been more than numerous complaints about this. Third, I have seen many people talk about having to cut their USB cord to get it to fit. FOURTH, even with the door open, it is not a complete connection, but a much better connection nonetheless.
What are you coming at me for? I didn't design the phone. The door is a stupid, needless idea and it causes problems. Are you going to blindly defend the phone?
Wow. Everyone really fighting over the usb port?! Open the door all the way and there is no issues with it. I use all kind of usb plugs, and they all work fine. If you don't like it, get a new phone, that will fix your issues.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using XDA App
thehyecircus said:
The cable is stupid. Number one, I am not using the stock cable, I made that clear at the start. Second, the port is recessed into the phone. There have been more than numerous complaints about this. Third, I have seen many people talk about having to cut their USB cord to get it to fit. FOURTH, even with the door open, it is not a complete connection, but a much better connection nonetheless.
What are you coming at me for? I didn't design the phone. The door is a stupid, needless idea and it causes problems. Are you going to blindly defend the phone?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
in all fairness, you said NOTHING about not using the samsung cord in your first post....in fact, i had to go back and reread that a couple more times after this post just to comprehend it.
english-use it
Pirateghost said:
in all fairness, you said NOTHING about not using the samsung cord in your first post....in fact, i had to go back and reread that a couple more times after this post just to comprehend it.
english-use it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
"So I got my Captivate, and I have a Micro-USB plug already, six feet!!"
Why don't you learn to read? If I have a plug already... why would you think I was using the plug that came with it? I specified the plug, and that it was six feet long, which is not the length of the cord it comes with.
There's a plug..and there's a cord...what, ER, are you referring to?
thehyecircus said:
"So I got my Captivate, and I have a Micro-USB plug already, six feet!!"
Why don't you learn to read? If I have a plug already... why would you think I was using the plug that came with it? I specified the plug, and that it was six feet long, which is not the length of the cord it comes with.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i know how to read. it is unfortunate that you feel the need to try and belittle anyone that does not understand your jibber jabber. think you could translate all that to english and construct a properly formed sentence?
i was merely enforcing the fact that people were confused by your rantings and my guess is that 50% of the people that read your thread were just plain confused.
Pirateghost said:
i know how to read. it is unfortunate that you feel the need to try and belittle anyone that does not understand your jibber jabber. think you could translate all that to english and construct a properly formed sentence?
i was merely enforcing the fact that people were confused by your rantings and my guess is that 50% of the people that read your thread were just plain confused.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So it is unfortunate that I feel the need to "try" and belittle you, but you think it is okay to come into a topic where every reply before one from Boborone was exactly on topic and understood a very common issue exactly and belittle me.
thehyecircus said:
So it is unfortunate that I feel the need to "try" and belittle you, but you think it is okay to come into a topic where every reply before one from Boborone was exactly on topic and understood a very common issue exactly and belittle me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no i was standing up for the guy that you basically called a retard, and letting you know that your first post was not clear.
i was not trying to belittle you with my first post in this thread.
if you cannot comprehend such things, i would suggest you take a minute to think about it.
Pirateghost said:
no i was standing up for the guy that you basically called a retard, and letting you know that your first post was not clear.
i was not trying to belittle you with my first post in this thread.
if you cannot comprehend such things, i would suggest you take a minute to think about it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I never called him such a thing, but the topic has been clear to everyone except a few stubborn folk. Now please, there shouldn't be any fighting here and I hate having to bump this each time to just to respond to you over nothing. It was a very clear topic. Even if you could not understand my first post, there were on-topic replies. The only way to not understand this post is to not want to. And you simply don't want to.
God bless us every one.....
gunnyman said:
God bless us every one.....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hahaha
Alright guys lets just drop it. I read some of the guy's other topics and it seems that reading and searching are not strong suites.
To put things in perspective, I thought of an old buddy of mine. We went to a titty bar, all nude. He asked me where to put the money. Some things come natural to some, others over think it.
Merry Christmas
Just put my tree up
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1200 lights on an 8 ft tree
From a phone
From a phone
Pretty. Sideways, but pretty.

3500mAh battery for TEN bucks?!?

I was searching through Amazon and found this battery by Hyperion. Anyone willing to test it? I would, but my Mugen and my Qcell are good enough for me.
Hyperion T-Mobile HTC MyTouch Slide 4G 3500mAh Extended Battery + Back Cover
Too bad the shipping is $4.49 and it's not a Prime eligible item or i'd be all over it...
blackknightavalon said:
I was searching through Amazon and found this battery by Hyperion. Anyone willing to test it? I would, but my Mugen and my Qcell are good enough for me.
Hyperion T-Mobile HTC MyTouch Slide 4G 3500mAh Extended Battery + Back Cover
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If I had not just ordered one of those 2450 mAh "Gold" batteries, I would jump all over this. My only issue is the need for a bump in the cover. I know it isn't huge, but it still adds extra thickness and just doesn't look as nice.
Once again, if you don't want a phone that you know is in your hand or case and will break on the slightest impact, get an iPhone.
Sent from Spaceball One.
blackknightavalon said:
Once again, if you don't want a phone that you know is in your hand or case and will break on the slightest impact, get an iPhone.
Sent from Spaceball One.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
iPhone is a "piece of art" Hence, in theory it may be a phone too, but as a "piece of art" it supposed to be stared at, not used...
Good find with this battery, blackknightavalon!
Seller's images on amazon:
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I had some "Hyperion" battery (assuming it is the same brand?) for one of my old phones and it worked fine.
I may buy it, however it won't fit into my holster or my "night table stand" (dock) anymore... gotta think about it.
Certainly price is excellent.
MT4GS said:
iPhone is a "piece of art" Hence, in theory it may be a phone too, but as a "piece of art" it supposed to be stared at, not used...
Good find with this battery, blackknightavalon!
Seller's images on amazon:
I had some "Hyperion" battery (assuming it is the same brand?) for one of my old phones and it worked fine.
I may buy it, however it won't fit into my holster or my "night table stand" (dock) anymore... gotta think about it.
Certainly price is excellent.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just remember my criticism of the Qcell battery. That one may last as long as a Mugen but sudden, violent shakes causes it to fall off the leads. Buyer beware.
Just Ordered Two
Hey everyone, been reading these boards for a long time, first time posting. Awesome site, very informative. I just rooted my 4g Slide with CM9 and after two days of relatively fast battery drain, have ordered two of these. Once they arrive, I can let you all know how they turn out. Any recommendations for a good screenshot tool?
EDIT: Nevermind, CM9 has a screenshot tool built in, just found it.
eparico said:
Hey everyone, been reading these boards for a long time, first time posting. Awesome site, very informative. I just rooted my 4g Slide with CM9 and after two days of relatively fast battery drain, have ordered two of these. Once they arrive, I can let you all know how they turn out. Any recommendations for a good screenshot tool?
EDIT: Nevermind, CM9 has a screenshot tool built in, just found it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Go with "screenshot" by Kastor Soft. Much more versatile.
blackknightavalon said:
Go with "screenshot" by Kastor Soft. Much more versatile.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, I'll check it out.
New batteries came in yesterday, I took some pictures that I'll post later but they're at home right now As a comparison, they're about twice as thick as the OEM batteries so they're going to add some weight to your phone. So far after 4 hours, made one phone call, checked my FB app a few times (Friendcaster) and my weather app but haven't done a whole lot more, the battery is down to 92% which is much better than the OEM running CM9 where I'd probably be down to around 70% by now. I'm not looking for a miracle, just hoping the charge will last me the day.
If anyone can let me know how to post these pics in the message instead of uploading as an attachment, it would be a help. I'm being asked for a URL...am I supposed to upload the pic to another site first?
eparico said:
New batteries came in yesterday, I took some pictures that I'll post later but they're at home right now As a comparison, they're about twice as thick as the OEM batteries so they're going to add some weight to your phone. So far after 4 hours, made one phone call, checked my FB app a few times (Friendcaster) and my weather app but haven't done a whole lot more, the battery is down to 92% which is much better than the OEM running CM9 where I'd probably be down to around 70% by now. I'm not looking for a miracle, just hoping the charge will last me the day.
If anyone can let me know how to post these pics in the message instead of uploading as an attachment, it would be a help. I'm being asked for a URL...am I supposed to upload the pic to another site first?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I upload my pics to photobucket, then copy the image code and paste it in whatever thread I am responding to.
Technically this is $15. Shipping is $5 and at the end of the day, that's still $$$ out of your pocket. OP should update the title
gtmaster303 said:
Technically this is $15. Shipping is $5 and at the end of the day, that's still $$$ out of your pocket. OP should update the title
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope. The battery itself is still $10. The prices never include the shipping.
Sent from Spaceball One.
Ok, so being a newbie to this site, I'm not allowed to post outside links until I get to 10 so they're attached instead. Found out the hard way that I can't post links yet...
Here's a size comparison with the OEM and the Hyperion. As you can see, they're double the size. Despite the bulky size, this battery has done me well for the last few days. I keep pretty much everything turned on (data, gps, wifi, bluetooth).
Some stats from the other day when I first got the batteries. 19+ hours uptime, did some texting, made a few calls and after getting home from work, did a boatload of browsing the web, playing on Stumbleupon, more texting, YouTube, pretty much anything that can kill a battery fast. Can't say I'm disappointed at all. Like I mentioned, not looking for miracles here, just need a battery to last me the day. Just flashed CM9 alpha 5 today so more testing will be done.
Not sure what other info might be needed but let me know and I'll post.
Thanks Yellowjacket and Blackknight for the info you provided in the previous posts. Sorry for the delay, had some personal issues to deal with. Cheers!
EDIT: Forgot to mention, if you're taking the battery cover off, be wary of the battery disconnecting relatively quickly from the phone. To disconnect, you don't even need to take the cover off entirely, just pop it out a little bit and it's enough to power the phone off.
eparico said:
If anyone can let me know how to post these pics in the message instead of uploading as an attachment, it would be a help. I'm being asked for a URL...am I supposed to upload the pic to another site first?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are many sites where you can upload pics. If you use google (99% sure you do since you use Android phone) you may want to link them from your Picasa. However if you prefer to do anonymously (like I do) use any of the freebie websites, i would suggest ImageShack (because many sites came and go but they are still there, and it is very easy on their site to go around their ads when you want to post actual picture).
Once you have your picture's url simply type this in your post:
Code:
[.IMG]http://YourImageUrlGoesHere.jpg[/IMG.]
/edit - the code tags don't work for other tags, it actually wanted to appear as photo in my post lol, so I added dots to prevent it: when you type it DO remove them (the first dot between "[" and "I", and the last dot between "G" and "]"
and it should appear as picture in your post.
I did it this way in my first posts here too when I wasn't "allowed" to add attachments
HTH
---------- Post added at 06:29 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:13 AM ----------
eparico said:
EDIT: Forgot to mention, if you're taking the battery cover off, be wary of the battery disconnecting relatively quickly from the phone. To disconnect, you don't even need to take the cover off entirely, just pop it out a little bit and it's enough to power the phone off.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1 - Is it possible to use scotch tape or something to hold it in place when removing back cover?
2 - Is there enough space underneath this battery's cover - above or below the battery (most likely below since above is camera) - to use it as i.e. storage for SD cards? (that's what I used to do with my large Mugen battery on my old HTC TyTN II )
Thanks for your pics and info.
For the purpose of uploading the pics to the actual message instead of adding as an attachment, I opened a Photobucket account and tried two different methods to add them in, once by the HTML code and the second time by using the URL, both of which returned the same result with a message telling me I couldn't until I reached the 10 posts. I'll give your method a shot again to see if I can get it to work. Hopefully, I won't have to worry about that much longer anyway
I'll also check out the sites you recommended. Thanks for the info.
To answer your questions:
1. Adding tape is probably the way to go. It seems these batteries are the slightest bit shorter than the OEM which actually led me to a new problem. Twice today, I must have jarred the phone enough to where it disconnected while it was in my pocket and had to be booted back up. I'm not heavily reliant on my phone so no big deal but I also don't want it randomly disconnecting. Messing around a few moments ago, I gave my phone a shake and it was enough to cause it to disconnect. I folded a small piece of paper and taped it to the end of the battery to make the fit a bit more snug and it seems to have done the trick. I gave the phone a real hard shake after putting the paper/tape on there and it didn't disconnect.
I'm thinking I should have only ordered one of these batteries instead of two...lesson learned.
2. There's more than enough room to store a small collection of SD cards below the battery cover...great idea by the way, now that I have a large cover I may store my spares in there too!
Cheers!
Bump. How's this battery doing after a month? Any long term updates?
Sent from my doubleshot using xda app-developers app
macksgarage said:
Bump. How's this battery doing after a month? Any long term updates?
Sent from my doubleshot using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's been doing a pretty darn good job. I keep everything turned on (wifi, bluetooth, data, gps) and have gotten three days out of a single charge. I don't have any screenshots to show you right now but I can post them when I run the battery again.
I also bought an Anker charger for these batteries but it turns out they don't charge nearly as well as charging the phone/battery through a USB port on my computer. I was only getting one to one and a half days using the Anker. If anyone might have some insight to share on this, is there a difference between using a USB port on a computer as compared to plugging into a wall socket that would cause the battery to lose charge more quickly?
That's what I was hoping to hear. Still on the stock battery So I think I'll order of these tonight. I trust the backplate isn't falling off like all the other 3500 mAh batteries.
Sent from my myTouch_4G_Slide using xda app-developers app
Some of my various accumulated wall chargers seem to fill better than others. For reasons unknown. A couple are complete crap, and don't saturate even over night. And don't even get me started on the ones that cause car panel or voice dialing to start automatically when plugged in.or the one that freezes my touchscreen and nearly made me kp. The included HTC cable and USB charge block work well, as does gf's factory Samsung charger.
Sent from my myTouch_4G_Slide using xda app-developers app

Nitpicking the note 3 + USB 3.0 Vs. USB 2.0 + RL First Cycle Battery Usage Stats

Disclaimer: This thread is just meant to help note 3 future buyers. All things listed are just minor inconveniences. The note3 is the best electronic device I've ever used to date. I think it's the best phone to date. The below pertain to the Qualcomm Snapdragon 800 model of the Note3; users of the Exynos model may have different results:
The good things about the phone are many. This part is not meant to list them, because you probably already know them.
Having said that, here are the things I've noticed so far (My phone is Qualcomm Snapdragon model with 32gb):
The phone gets somewhat warm at the back (above the samsung logo and below camera) during some usage. [Update: Temperature has been improved in my second day with the phone. It still gets a 5-7 degrees warmer while using the camera or intensive browsing, but nothing to worry about imo]
The home button is not firm in its place. It moves in its socket (much prone than it was on the note2)
The volume rocker on the left of the phone is placed higher than on the note2 (whether this is good or bad is up to you).
***UPDATE***
There is a noticeable and ugly pop sound followed by a static noise whenever the audio stops while using the AUX port in my car. When the audio starts again, the sound disappears completely. When audio stops or gets paused, it's fine for 3 seconds and then the pop sound hits again followed by the static noise. [I'll have to test this using another aux cable before confirming on this one though so don't quote me. The aux cable I'm using is one year old, $12 from radio shack]
There is an ever so slight gap between the frame and the glass on the top and bottom (the gap is a bit bigger at the bottom than on the top) which accumulates dust particles. The sides don't have any noticable gaps, at least in my phone. To be honest though, the issue is much less noticeable than it was on my note 2 (my note 2 had gaps on both sides as well as top and bottom), and you can't see it unless you deliberately look for it.
Charger is now much harder to both plug in and plug out of the phone (thanks riz157). This is actually an advantage for me since Note2's usb wire that came with the note2 would get detached very easily from the slightest of movement. However, one disadvantage of the new wire comes in the form that it is now more difficult to plug-in in the dark; the hole is a much tighter fit now.
The S-pen is not flush with the back cover like it was with the note2. It is now protruding by like 1millimeter. This is just a silly point, but I decided to throw it in. It is also somewhat harder to get out (thanks ipkryss for pointing this out), but it is easier to put back in (you can now put it back in in two different ways, as opposed to note2 which accepted only one way). The pen itself is thinner, looks more premium, and feels better in the hands than before.
***UPDATE***
Unfortunately, updating the Youtube app to the new version seems to break the functionality of the Scrapbooker feature that enables you to save Youtube videos in your Scrapbook.
You'll have to go to Youtube's application info and click "Uninstall updates" to revert back to the Youtube's old version if you want it to work.
It's one of the most interesting features for me when it comes to Scrapbook, so I hope they make it compatible with the new Youtube soon.
*** There seems to be a glitch where my phone would start only utilizing CPU1,CPU2 and CPU3&4 would remain "offline" no matter what you throw on the phone. This has happened a total of three times on my phone and was fixed with a simple reboot on all three occassions (Had the phone since 5 days now).
To put things into perspective, my Quadrant score on this phone is around ~22,000. When the glitch was triggered, Quadrant score was ~13,400 (which is still higher than the second highest score that belong to HTC One)
I can't replicate the issue because I haven't the faintest clue what triggers it. Not to alarm people, this might only exclusive to the ROM in my phone, as I haven't seen anyone else report it yet, and it seems to be a rare occurrence. If more users of the S800 model can chime in and track this on their phones (for a period of at least 2-3 days) I'd appreciate it. If it does turn out to be an issue with all S800 models and not just specific to my ROM, notifying Samsung should get it easily fixed with an update.
USB 3.0 Vs. USB 2.0:
Using a stopwatch, I set out to calculate the transfer duration of a 5.64GB from my PC to the internal memory of the phone:
First test: using USB 2.0 cable (Media device MTP connection), USB 2.0 port on my PC, File size 5.64GB.
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TRANSFER DURATION: 00:03:15 (195 seconds)
Second test: using USB 3.0 cable that came with the phone (Media Device USB 3.0 connection), USB 3.0 port on my PC, File Size 5.64GB (exact same file to the exact same location on phone) [Warning: using USB 3.0 might interfere with data connection&calls]
TRANSFER DURATION: 00:01:37 (97 seconds)
BATTERY STATS:
So I bought phone yesterday evening. Charged it overnight. It was 100% when I woke up at 6:25am to get ready for work.
Enabled data (3g HSPA though, not 4g). Data was enabled for the whole day. The phone was on wifi for only 5-10minutes in the morning--ignore the bar in the second screenshot which shows that WIFI was on for the whole time. That may be a software bug.
The brightness was on Auto and on the middle of the Automatic brightness adjustment bar for the whole duration.
Phone Usage Included:
Chatting on whatsapp
Using XDA forum app
Reading some tech news using Appy Geek app
Installing around 20 apps from the Google Play Store
Listening to music to and from work through AUX port in car
Fiddling around with the phone from time to time --testing Air command, browser .. stuff like that
By around 10pm, the battery was around 33%. I began running YouTube videos on HQ, with max volume, and on 3g for a total of around two hours.
Finally, the battery dropped down to 7%.
* Disclaimer: The usage did not include extremely battery-hungry tasks, such as playing games or running benchmarks. GPS and Bluetooth were off. Air gestures and such 'gimmicky' features were off, as I don't really use them. Note that your Note3 battery life might/will differ depending on usage and whether you're on WIFI or 4g.
*** Charging Speed (using AC adapter): Around 47 - 48% / hour. I plugged my phone when it was 5% at 12:36 am, by 1:36 am it was up to 53%. ***
And below are the results:
Verdict: the battery life is fantastic. Enough said. If my usage didn't include running Youtube videos, then the screen-on time would have probably been more than 7 hours. Note that this is on the first charge cycle of the battery. To make it short, it will easily last you a full day if you're a heavy user, and more than a day if you're a light user. Keep in mind that screenshots were taken when battery was 7%, so it still had some "juice" in it left
OFF-TOPIC: I know I said I wouldn't mention the good parts of the phone, but I have to say that the display on this phone is lovely and to me a worthy upgrade to the Note2's. The blacks are BLACK. So much so, that if you open a completely black screen on the phone, and go in a pitch dark room, the phone will be completely invisible because it blends perfectly with the dark. As a point of comparison, my Note2 looked greyesh in a completely dark room.
The whites are improved as well over the Note2, they now look more "milky" if that makes sense.
MohJee said:
Disclaimer: This thread is just meant to help note 3 future buyers. All things listed are just minor inconveniences. The note3 is the best electronic device I've ever used to date. I think it's the best phone to date.
The good things about the phone are many. This thread is not meant to list them, because you probably already know them.
Having said that, here are the things I've noticed so far (phone is qualcomm model with 32gb if anyone is interested btw):
- The phone gets somewhat warm at the back (above the samsung logo and below camera) during some usage.
- The home button is not firm in its place. It moves in its socket (much prone than it was on the note2)
- The volume rocker on the left of the phone is placed higher than on the note2 (whether this is good or bad is up to you).
Will update this thread if I find anything else. Doubt there will be many, if any ,more though. For anyone else who has the phone, feel free to contribute.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No need to apologize for constructive criticism, the best way to learn about a device is to know what's not working well, everything else is just for comfort.
Please state your device number and system-on-chip on board.
Here
How is the audio jack signal?
Is it clean or do you hear a crackling or "noise" when you pause an audio track?
Also what headphones are using, what track, what type of recording, what volume level?
Are you using a headphone amp to power the headphones etc..
grifter9931 said:
How is the audio jack signal?
Is it clean or do you hear a crackling or "noise" when you pause an audio track?
Also what headphones are using, what track, what type of recording, what volume level?
Are you using a headphone amp to power the headphones etc..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've tried the ear phones that come with the device (which are improved from the ones that come with the note2 btw -- they have the noodle-like cable now) and to be honest I didn't hear any crackling sound or noise when playing or pausing the audio.
MohJee said:
I've tried the ear phones that come with the device (which are improved from the ones that come with the note2 btw -- they have the noodle-like cable now) and to be honest I didn't hear any crackling sound or noise when playing or pausing the audio.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you turn the volume all they way up and hit pause, if you don't hear any "noise" then at least the headphone jack has a clean signal..
Thanks!!
grifter9931 said:
Can you turn the volume all they way up and hit pause, if you don't hear any "noise" then at least the headphone jack has a clean signal..
Thanks!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok.. I went into a completely silent area and turned volume to max with audio paused. There might be something there, but if there is then my ear is too weak to pick it up, because I can't decide if there is really some faint sound or my mind is imagining things.
To be verified by some other user... I might not be the best test subject when it comes to audio
MohJee said:
Ok.. I went into a completely silent area and turned volume to max with audio paused. There might be something there, but if there is then my ear is too weak to pick it up, because I can't decide if there is really some faint sound or my mind is imagining things.
To be verified by some other user... I might not be the best test subject when it comes to audio
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's all good man, thank you for testing it out. I have pretty good monitors and I will test them as well. But if you didn't hear something noticeable chances are its there is none..
Please mention your phone processor type (Snapdragon or Exynos) when you share your critics about this phone.
Perhaps some problems are exclusives on a spesific type
azhurvadal said:
Please mention your phone processor type (Snapdragon or Exynos) when you share your critics about this phone.
Perhaps some problems are exclusives on a spesific type
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I already mentioned that I'm using qualcomm 32gb model (qualcomm snapdragon N9005)
MohJee said:
I already mentioned that I'm using qualcomm 32gb model (qualcomm snapdragon N9005)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know you did.
I meant it for other note 3 owners who will share their critics in this thread
MohJee said:
Disclaimer: This thread is just meant to help note 3 future buyers. All things listed are just minor inconveniences. The note3 is the best electronic device I've ever used to date. I think it's the best phone to date.
The good things about the phone are many. This thread is not meant to list them, because you probably already know them.
Having said that, here are the things I've noticed so far (phone is qualcomm model with 32gb if anyone is interested btw):
- The phone gets somewhat warm at the back (above the samsung logo and below camera) during some usage [this could very well be the result of the constant updating in the background since it's still a new phone]
- The home button is not firm in its place. It moves in its socket (much prone than it was on the note2)
- The volume rocker on the left of the phone is placed higher than on the note2 (whether this is good or bad is up to you).
Will update this thread if I find anything else. Doubt there will be many, if any ,more though. For anyone else who has the phone, feel free to contribute.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The home button on my is fine but the s4 I had used to have with a wobbly home button so suspect it's a generic issue with build quality.
Audio is massively better than the s4 in terms of volume and quality
you have to use quite bit force to disconnect charger and headphone, anyone else noticed that?
riz157 said:
you have to use quite bit force to disconnect charger and headphone, anyone else noticed that?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Both should loosen up with use.
@rbiter said:
Both should loosen up with use.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
*giggidy*
What about bluetooth connectivity? Any WiFi interference issues? I've seen reports of the Note II suffering from this with certain headsets.
With my nail-bitten fingers its impossible for me to get my pen out! i need to use my teeth or ask somebody else.. damn. I hope it'll loosen up a little bit, or this might be a great opportunity to stop biting my nails!
Anyone else have this issue?
MohJee said:
- The phone gets somewhat warm at the back (above the samsung logo and below camera) during some usage [this could very well be the result of the constant updating in the background since it's still a new phone]
.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm accustomed to this, as my Epic 4G Touch accumulates heat in the same area It's likely where the processor is located.
I'll add what I can next week when mine arrives... hopefully I won't have much to add
I went to a store here in Sweden to try one. Sweden's getting the S800 variant. I got to use the first note 3 they had in stock, before it was even tethered to the bench with the rest of the phones. Booted it, skipped all the setup screens etc. Just messed around with features for 10 minutes.
I was looking for "lag" or stuttering in the the UI as the S4 has. It was rare, but it happened when scrolling the widget filled homescreen once or twice (out of 20-30 times). Didn't slow down the animation, the animation just seemed to drop a couple frames.
Still want it though, unless a deal breaker shows up in this thread.
Just bloody expensive in Sweden. Unlocked and off contract is 1000-1100 dollars depending on the store.
What is the call quality like? Also what is reception like? This will be my home and personal phone so I need that part of it to work well.

AN-21 U Hardware specs/hacks

Thread dedicated to hardware specific findings for 4.1 android head units.
General discussion found on this thread forked here to avoid making an already super long thread too much longer with hardware details most people don't really care about.
OP is a Placeholder for now, will expand and keep updated with any findings later.
Pics
Preliminary closeups uploaded to flicker.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/
In my urge to take closeups and readable pics of chips I managed not to snap any picture of the whole boart, especially the top part of the board. I believe @KID52 had some pics posted early on either in the OUKU thread or the AN-21 U thread...
The Android daughterboard is soldered on the bottom side, we can see a couple of unpopulated headers, one of which could be a possible ADB...
Also we can see the GPS antenna connects directly to that board, as opposed to BT board (sorry no good pic yet, we can see a corner of it on the right side of this image), TV, DVD, and just about everything else...
A few good shots of the MCU chip STM8AH 6189TAKIT. From the spec sheet we can see it's a FLASH no EPROM type 64Kb flash memory 64 pin LQFP package rated -40 to 85 Celsius (not the best for automotive if you ask me).
Also we can see that the reset and swim (pins 1 and 58) connect to nothing, killing the hope that Conn 6 could be a programmer connector for the mcu (following traces, that seems to be a video input)
Also interesting is U9: 74HC4052 4-channel analog multiplexer/demultiplexer
From the other thread.
KID52 said:
For those interested, here are some internal shots. Not the best as I used my phone, but not awful either.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
KID52 said:
From the other thread.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks! Glad to see that the mainboard seems Identical to mine even though it's from a different face model. I'm sure the electronics for color change are in the face board wich is significantly different but connects the same way.
If thee is no other options a replacement board shouldn't be too expensive considering there is single knob units out there for ~$300 complete
Wow. Thanks you guys. I must have missed KID52's post from the other thread somehow. But, it definitely gives me better context. It looks like the "MCU" is actually the main board and the "ARM (Android)" is a daughterboard to it. I am now beginning to wonder if the units prior to this had the similar internals and the "MCU" was just disguised to look like Windows CE.
---------- Post added at 08:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:47 PM ----------
I know this is not a picture of an AN 21-U variant but here's the innards of the S150 where someone was able to figure out how to connect via ADB to the Android board on the unit. There are more pictures and useful information linked to the picture below. Maybe it will help someone get an idea of the possibilities to interact with the individual components.
[url=http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=49388082#post49388082]KoTiX2[/url] said:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
donaldta said:
Wow. Thanks you guys. I must have missed KID52's post from the other thread somehow. But, it definitely gives me better context. It looks like the "MCU" is actually the main board and the "ARM (Android)" is a daughterboard to it. I am now beginning to wonder if the units prior to this had the similar internals and the "MCU" was just disguised to look like Windows CE.
---------- Post added at 08:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:47 PM ----------
I know this is not a picture of an AN 21-U variant but here's the innards of the S150 where someone was able to figure out how to connect via ADB to the Android board on the unit. There are more pictures and useful information linked to the picture below. Maybe it will help someone get an idea of the possibilities to interact with the individual components.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm kind of thinking in our case it might be easier than that, the empty pads on the bottom right of the daughterboard kind of look like a usb connector... Am I going to have the balls to test that theory?.... Not sure, unless I end up with a spare board if the MCU doesn't get fixed by the upcoming update...
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Kind of funny the size of that daughterboard is about the size of a smartphone...
sciallo said:
I'm kind of thinking in our case it might be easier than that, the empty pads on the bottom right of the daughterboard kind of look like a usb connector... Am I going to have the balls to test that theory?.... Not sure, unless I end up with a spare board if the MCU doesn't get fixed by the upcoming update...
Kind of funny the size of that daughterboard is about the size of a smartphone...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just from looking at it I don't think its USB pinout.. you can see pin-2 is connected to ground, my guess is TTL serial.. power, ground and rx/tx perhaps. Could just be a serial I/O for the GPS since it's in such close proximity
Black6spdZ said:
Just from looking at it I don't think its USB pinout.. you can see pin-2 is connected to ground, my guess is TTL serial.. power, ground and rx/tx perhaps. Could just be a serial I/O for the GPS since it's in such close proximity
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I see your point....
Kind of hard to follow traces without being able to see the other side... Not about to ohm traces out either as that has burned me before. Multimeters (at least any of the ones I have) do apply a small amount of voltage to ohm things out... In circuits like these, enough to throw things off...
sciallo said:
Kind of hard to follow traces without being able to see the other side... Not about to ohm traces out either as that has burned me before. Multimeters (at least any of the ones I have) do apply a small amount of voltage to ohm things out... In circuits like these, enough to throw things off...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You never want to measure resistance on a live circuit. That's a "don't do" multimeter 101 lesson. Not only do you get false readings, you can also end up damaging the multimeter. If you need to get the impedance on a live circuit, the proper thing is to extrapolate it through VIR equation. Using the measurement of the voltage pressure and current as variables.
In any case, if you are interested here is an article, "Reverse Engineering Serial Ports", that describes a way of identifying serial ports. And if you're looking for an awesome tool, check out the Bus Pirate and the JTAGulator.
donaldta said:
You never want to measure resistance on a live circuit. That's a "don't do" multimeter 101 lesson. Not only do you get false readings, you can also end up damaging the multimeter. If you need to get the impedance on a live circuit, the proper thing is to extrapolate it through VIR equation. Using the measurement of the voltage pressure and current as variables.
In any case, if you are interested here is an article, "Reverse Engineering Serial Ports", that describes a way of identifying serial ports. And if you're looking for an awesome tool, check out the Bus Pirate and the JTAGulator.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, I was talking non live circuit either, no power to the board, the multimeter puts enough on it to mess things up ins some rare cases...
REALLY interesting tools! I'll have to do some more reading...
Black6spdZ said:
Just from looking at it I don't think its USB pinout.. you can see pin-2 is connected to ground, my guess is TTL serial.. power, ground and rx/tx perhaps. Could just be a serial I/O for the GPS since it's in such close proximity
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Heh, heh... I just noticed the silk screen next to the back fabric tape.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
donaldta said:
Heh, heh... I just noticed the silk screen next to the back fabric tape.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice! I was looking at the pic last night and surprised I missed that
I noticed that, how do we figure out what kind of rx tx those are... couldn't that be about anything? I2C, serial, USB... Again, If I end up witha MCU less spare I won't be too afraid to mess with it heavily...
sciallo said:
I noticed that, how do we figure out what kind of rx tx those are... couldn't that be about anything? I2C, serial, USB... Again, If I end up witha MCU less spare I won't be too afraid to mess with it heavily...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well... it wouldn't be I²C because that it is a bidirectional bus with two lines; Serial DAta (SDA) and Serial CLock line (SCL) to interconnect the devices. Whereas most analog serial use unidirectional data lines, most commonly paired with Transmit (TX) and Receive (RX). It would not be USB since that uses a pair of bidirectional differential signaling lines; D+ (Data High) and D- (Data Low). However, if you think those labels are misleading then that's where a Bus Pirate or a JTAGulator comes in to play.
donaldta said:
Well... it wouldn't be I²C because that it is a bidirectional bus with two lines; Serial DAta (SDA) and Serial CLock line (SCL) to interconnect the devices. Whereas most analog serial use unidirectional data lines, most commonly paired with Transmit (TX) and Receive (RX). It would not be USB since that uses a pair of bidirectional differential signaling lines; D+ (Data High) and D- (Data Low). However, if you think those labels are misleading then that's where a Bus Pirate or a JTAGulator comes in to play.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, I'm with you on that logic, so it wouldn't be our ADB port right? at least not usb... I can't begin to guess what it would be, seems like maybe analog serial, but I wouldn't know what to begin to think as far as what to do with it...
sciallo said:
Ok, I'm with you on that logic, so it wouldn't be our ADB port right? at least not usb... I can't begin to guess what it would be, seems like maybe analog serial, but I wouldn't know what to begin to think as far as what to do with it...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, technically there's no such thing as an "ADB port" per se. Unless of course, you're referring to Apple Desktop Bus. In Android devices, it is really just a USB client port that has access to Android Debug Bridge daemon running on the device.
As far as what you would do with it, I did link the tutorial, "Reverse Engineering Serial Ports" to give you an idea.
finally got around to reading that... It sure could be something to try for kicks.
I remember doing that to rescusitate a friends router, though I had a file I could push through the serial connection once I got the Jtag connected... In this case I guess we can hope to be able to pull a backup of the bootloader or who knows what... Could be interesting to see what that gives access to.
Well, I don't know how much of my board is still working if at all but I'm willing to experiment with it as it's already as bad as I can immagine it would be short of getting a fire started ... Anyway, from what I understand about this type of serial communication, I couldn't hook it straight up to a computer's serial port right? would this type of adapter do the trick? http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e1140...tem=271342746958&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160
It sais RS232 on the title but it seems it will support a wide range of voltages. Getting a little confused on the subject...
Also, I see you circled the RST pad too... What role would that play in a serial connection?
sciallo said:
Also, I see you circled the RST pad too... What role would that play in a serial connection?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Reset. Typically use as a reset button for the microprocessor. It is mainly used for development.

Wifi disconnecting when battery not on charge

Hi all. As written my sm-t905 has this strange wifi problem. Tried on different networks and same results
Tried a lot of different custom and official roms and same results
Worked on every wifi settings and same results
Wifi is stable only when tablet is on charge
Some suggestions?
Thx :good:
I had almost the same problem, not like you though but on lower than 60% battery it had this problem of disconnecting then not going to turn on! check the battery connection and everything, all were good.
the wifi chipset is problematic in many of Samsung devices, try dialing *#0011# to go to service menu then wlan and then disable saving battery mode, (it will deplete your battery way faster than before, be sure to turnoff wifi when not using it!) mine had problem before that, now only being on airplane mode and then wifi on works otherwise wifi chipset stuck on turning on... forever. check other threads , many people have the same pronblem with no workaround. replacing mobo works.
did install many Roms, all the same, so stuck to stock Touchwiz lollipop that still there is a workaround for having a working wifi.
never going to buy Samsung ever again.
skylive3d said:
I had almost the same problem, not like you though but on lower than 60% battery it had this problem of disconnecting then not going to turn on! check the battery connection and everything, all were good.
the wifi chipset is problematic in many of Samsung devices, try dialing *#0011# to go to service menu then wlan and then disable saving battery mode, (it will deplete your battery way faster than before, be sure to turnoff wifi when not using it!) mine had problem before that, now only being on airplane mode and then wifi on works otherwise wifi chipset stuck on turning on... forever. check other threads , many people have the same pronblem with no workaround. replacing mobo works.
did install many Roms, all the same, so stuck to stock Touchwiz lollipop that still there is a workaround for having a working wifi.
never going to buy Samsung ever again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I checked and the same for me...it starts to disconnect under 60% battery level
Unluckly with *#0011# code it doesn't go on the wifi menu. It does nothing! Not even with *#06# is possibe to look at the imei number(but imei is normally written in the info menu). It seems it doesn't get codes at all from dialer
What could I do to enter in the hiden wifi menu?
Now I'll try to open it to check the battery connection but I find it really strange that a lot of people as the same wifi problems
Thanks in advance
This is a common flaw in Samsung tablets , not only this model but others as well. It's very easy to fix but most users don't realize the problem due to lacking of technical understanding or equipment: microscope and solder iron to resolder battery connector.
1- The first fix is easy, most average users can do it: fixing the loose battery cables. This model has intermittent power, battery capacity fluctuation.....etc.. due to loose battery cable
https://forums.androidcentral.com/s...350-goes-continual-boot-loop.html#post5928150
2- The second one requires soldering skill which most don't know how. However, you can get it done from the help of a repair shop or anyone knows how to solder
Most Samsung tablets, especially the 10.1 or 12.2, have the cracked solder joints of battery connector due to loose mainboard which has only few screws to secure it.
The Note Pro has only 3 screws at two speakers to hold the mainboard which sits on top of a flexible LCD.
If you take my advice seriously and fixing these two battery connectors, you'll solve any problem related to power.
This flaw is very obvious but I see a lot of people ignore it and try to do something else and keep complaining about the problem of Samsung tablets.
After take care of these connectors, your tablet may last another 2 years until the mainboard goes bad.
Beut said:
This is a common flaw in Samsung tablets , not only this model but others as well. It's very easy to fix but most users don't realize the problem due to lacking of technical understanding or equipment: microscope and solder iron to resolder battery connector.
1- The first fix is easy, most average users can do it: fixing the loose battery cables. This model has intermittent power, battery capacity fluctuation.....etc.. due to loose battery cable
https://forums.androidcentral.com/s...350-goes-continual-boot-loop.html#post5928150
2- The second one requires soldering skill which most don't know how. However, you can get it done from the help of a repair shop or anyone knows how to solder
Most Samsung tablets, especially the 10.1 or 12.2, have the cracked solder joints of battery connector due to loose mainboard which has only few screws to secure it.
The Note Pro has only 3 screws at two speakers to hold the mainboard which sits on top of a flexible LCD.
If you take my advice seriously and fixing these two battery connectors, you'll solve any problem related to power.
This flaw is very obvious but I see a lot of people ignore it and try to do something else and keep complaining about the problem of Samsung tablets.
After take care of these connectors, your tablet may last another 2 years until the mainboard goes bad.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Finally the solution! That's amazing! Thank's a lot! :fingers-crossed:
P.s: I opened the back cover and battery connector seems to be ok but I can't be sure about it. In the next days I will take it to a repairing lab to ask how much can it cost to re-soldering the connector. I wish it will be cheap cause i coudn't do it by myself. My solderer has not enough small spot and I wouldn't buy a new one just for this fix... Beut,do you know how much could it be a reasonable price for such workaround? Thanks
freccia said:
Finally the solution! That's amazing! Thank's a lot! :fingers-crossed:
P.s: I opened the back cover and battery connector seems to be ok but I can't be sure about it. In the next days I will take it to a repairing lab to ask how much can it cost to re-soldering the connector. I wish it will be cheap cause i coudn't do it by myself. My solderer has not enough small spot and I wouldn't buy a new one just for this fix... Beut,do you know how much could it be a reasonable price for such workaround? Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is a phenomenal problem of Samsung tablets especially this Note Pro or Tab Pro. Battery connector is not supposed to be a moving part, that's why minimum solder is needed.
However, look at the mainboard you'll see it's weakly secured to the frame sit on top of the flexible LCD. In order to see the cracks under neath of the connector, you'll need a power microscope.
This a fix from a Samsung Repair Center who is contractor, authorized to fix Samsung tablets
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Both connectors are fixed but they soldered the cables directly to connector on mainboard. Without knowing this, an innocent users will break both connectors when trying to replace the battery.
Trust me, over hundreds of Note Pro or Tab Pro I bought, only a few can pass my test. I actually push the connector by screw driver to see if it's not moving.
Here was a lot of 7 Note Pro I bought, all had the same problem that connectors need to be fixed
I don't know how much they charge in your area but this work takes only 5 minutes with a professional.
Beut said:
This is a phenomenal problem of Samsung tablets especially this Note Pro or Tab Pro. Battery connector is not supposed to be a moving part, that's why minimum solder is needed.
However, look at the mainboard you'll see it's weakly secured to the frame sit on top of the flexible LCD. In order to see the cracks under neath of the connector, you'll need a power microscope.
This a fix from a Samsung Repair Center who is contractor, authorized to fix Samsung tablets
Both connectors are fixed but they soldered the cables directly to connector on mainboard. Without knowing this, an innocent users will break both connectors when trying to replace the battery.
Trust me, over hundreds of Note Pro or Tab Pro I bought, only a few can pass my test. I actually push the connector by screw driver to see if it's not moving.
Here was a lot of 7 Note Pro I bought, all had the same problem that connectors need to be fixed
I don't know how much they charge in your area but this work takes only 5 minutes with a professional.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You really made my day. As first cause i laugh looking how the samsung lab worked on that poor connector. At last cause I really understand the problem and how to workaround on it! It's unbelievable that a 1000$ device didn't receive enough care about a simple connection soldering by the factory... you deserve success in your refurbishment of note pro lot. :good:
Have good time! Bye
This is an example of a badly cracked battery connector.
I will explain your power problem just based on Ohm law of parallel circuit. Battery of P900 or P905 has two cells connected in parallel : two red ( positive) and black ( negative ) cables.
V (total) = V1 = V2
However,
I ( total ) = I1 + I2
P( total )= P1+ P2
If one pin or one cable of positive is suddenly open, you lost half of battery power. That's why you can see battery drops quickly in few minutes, then moment later
or after a reboot, it go back to previous percentage. If two positive or negative are open, you have no power.
The question is why then it only affect wifi chipset? no slow charging or fast discharging battery problem, no flickering , no sudden turnoff!
everything fine except BT and Wifi, cause they are on the same chip. after turning off the save battery mode on wifi, it works even on 20%
I checked the connection several times, all were fine.
If only the OP re-soldering worked then I will accept your view on the cause of the problem.
I never run custom ROM so I don't know if this's problem from its firmware. All Note Pros were in my possession, running stock ROM, have never had Wifi dropping while at low charge or not connected to a charger.
My first action to any of this tablet is fixing these two connectors regardless their condition, because sooner or later, they will fail: one or both.
Bluetooth and Wifi are not related as they have separated components and circuit.
Beut said:
This is an example of a badly cracked battery connector.
I will explain your power problem just based on Ohm law of parallel circuit. Battery of P900 or P905 has two cells connected in parallel : two red ( positive) and black ( negative ) cables.
V (total) = V1 = V2
However,
I ( total ) = I1 + I2
P( total )= P1+ P2
If one pin or one cable of positive is suddenly open, you lost half of battery power. That's why you can see battery drops quickly in few minutes, then moment later
or after a reboot, it go back to previous percentage. If two positive or negative are open, you have no power.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you focus the question. it's exactly as you write. Luckly in my case it was only a bad contact cause after cleaning connector and pins with alchol it started to work normally. Now I really enjoy it and i'm thanksfull to you cause you pointed me on the right way!:good:
Beut said:
I never run custom ROM so I don't know if this's problem from its firmware. All Note Pros were in my possession, running stock ROM, have never had Wifi dropping while at low charge or not connected to a charger.
My first action to any of this tablet is fixing these two connectors regardless their condition, because sooner or later, they will fail: one or both.
Bluetooth and Wifi are not related as they have separated components and circuit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not depending from rom. As you said it's connector-electric problem. It made this on each rom I runned
cheers mate!
skylive3d said:
The question is why then it only affect wifi chipset? no slow charging or fast discharging battery problem, no flickering , no sudden turnoff!
everything fine except BT and Wifi, cause they are on the same chip. after turning off the save battery mode on wifi, it works even on 20%
I checked the connection several times, all were fine.
If only the OP re-soldering worked then I will accept your view on the cause of the problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you have to belive him. I read some case of people with flickering and rebooting problem cause bad power connector soldering. :fingers-crossed:
In each case problem was solved with resoldering(in the worst cases) or cleaning(in best cases) connector and pins. You can't know exactly what a lower power (cause missing part of parallel connection) could affect in different devices
cheers
freccia said:
you focus the question. it's exactly as you write. Luckly in my case it was only a bad contact cause after cleaning connector and pins with alchol it started to work normally. Now I really enjoy it and i'm thanksfull to you cause you pointed me on the right way!:good:
cheers mate!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for posting the result. If anyone is nice like you, others will benefit from the learning experiences of DIY.
Beut said:
Thanks for posting the result. If anyone is nice like you, others will benefit from the learning experiences of DIY.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I like to help community as much as community helps me :highfive:
freccia said:
you have to belive him. I read some case of people with flickering and rebooting problem cause bad power connector soldering. :fingers-crossed:
In each case problem was solved with resoldering(in the worst cases) or cleaning(in best cases) connector and pins. You can't know exactly what a lower power (cause missing part of parallel connection) could affect in different devices
cheers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea, OK, I guess he might be right , so you just cleaned the connector and Bam wifi works fine and no drops on low battery! hmm, interesting!
skylive3d said:
Yea, OK, I guess he might be right , so you just cleaned the connector and Bam wifi works fine and no drops on low battery! hmm, interesting!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's strange but yes... After a deep clean with alchol to connector and pins I no more had drops on low battery. I think it was on ossidation status and had a bad contact. Now I can really enjoy this wonderful tablet :good::fingers-crossed:

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