I saw the image attached on eBay and instantly wanted that on my Photon Q keyboard. It looks awesome. This modification does require taking apart your phone and getting down the keyboard back light, for an in depth tutorial on completely disassembling your Photon Q, take a peep at this repairs universe video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_JlhF600XU
Now this is a super simple modification that doesn't require soldering or any cutting of plastic like all the other awesome modifications for the Photon Q, and this can probably be done with other keyboard back light phones as well, I don't see why not. Even I could do this, it is that simple.
So here are the instructions:
1. Power off your Photon Q (or don't, be wild)
2. Pry off the back cover, if you have a sim slot installed you might need to remove the sim, and you will most likely need to pop out the micro sd card.
3. Unscrew all the bolts that hold down the plastic ring on top of the circuit board. A lot of people recommend disconnecting the camera, meh.
4. Disconnect battery
5. Make sure your bolts are organized, and count them. I say this because I lost a small and thankfully unimportant one
6. Jiggle the circuit board out of place, and BE GENTLE! open it out like a book, and take care that you don't tear the flex cable connecting the display to the keyboard/motherboard. These components can tear like a leaf, just ask my old Xoom volume flex cable (which I can't find anywhere if you can find a Motorola Xoom volume key ribbon cable anywhere tell me please)
7. See that white rectangle with all the bumps? that is the back light for your keys! (not the one with all the boxes, the one with the circular bumps that click!)
8. Now you get to do whatever you want! Do rainbows, do a solid color of choice, if you have tape and markers you can do some cool ****. The person on eBay said it was just colored tape, I didn't have colored tape so I did the following to achieve my rainbow keyboard keys:
- Put down one layer of scotch tape on the backlight
- Use sharpies to color in a rainbow, ROY-G-BIV amiright fella's?
- Put another layer of Scotch tape on top to keep the ink from leaving marks on the top film (the one with all the rectangular key cutouts)
- Closed it all up and screwed everything in place
- Boot up the phone and voila, fabulous keyboard keys that will surely make friends question my sexuality!
I have attached 3 pictures, the image of the eBay listings keyboard keys (they are much brighter since LineageOS / android puts the keys at the highest possible brightness by default), and two pictures of my keys. They are dimmer because my Nexus 7 camera is meh and Sailfish OS by default doesn't put them at the highest value. Couple that with my bathroom being the darkest room in the house and it being noon, and it comes out to some not so good pictures. Take my word for it, it looks better in real life. This is to just give an idea of what it looks like for others. Also if you are concerned about the keys not looking as bright, that isn't really a big concern. Yeah, obviously pure white is going to look brighter than red or blue for obvious reasons, but all in all its about the same brightness, and in the dark (which is when you are actually using said keys), they are more than usable and some great eye candy -- even at Sailfish OS's lower default key brightness.
...this is simple...not professional, but simple.
Keyboard foil is just painted thats all
Professional method will be change backlight diodes to another color
CornholioGSM said:
...this is simple...not professional, but simple.
Keyboard foil is just painted thats all
Professional method will be change backlight diodes to another color
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So do you think I could just disassemble it and use markers to color the keyboard backlight? I am not worried about the markers rubbing off... since its underneath the keys.
Related
All I have right now is this from someone online who said he had the instructions. If anyone has clear outlined pictures to do this, please post it.
Thank you!
"There are additional screws that need to be taken out. You have to pop off the housing on the top that covers the camera and the antenna port. there will be at least 2 more screws there. Then you will carefully have to pop off the back starting at the bottom by where the stylus is and pull that off. There is probably going to be another screw holding the board in place. It has been a few months since i have done this. Then the board comes out and you have 4 more screws these are phillips heads. That will take the back housing off of the front. Then 4 more screws to take the back plate off of the front housing."
Places i've tried to find LCD Digitizer replacement instructions for cracked LCD
The Audiovox PPC-6700 I have has a cracked screen. I got an LCD replacement, but have no detailed instructions on removing the cracked screen. Here are some useful places i've looked at to find the answer to this issue if it helps you:
http://forum.xda-developers.com ... of course why else would I post it here
http://buzzdev.net/component/option...tart,0/index.php?option=com_phorum&Itemid=125
http://forum.brighthand.com
http://www.mobiletechreview.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php
Not the best...but better than nothing....
Here are my own instructions I started... maybe someone else can expand/refine/clean this up. I'm done with this finally. Changing this is possible, but not necessarily easy. There's this tinny like sticker on the OEM LCD in the phone that's a real pain to pull off of the LCD. The pictures are terrible too...sorry...again..something= better than nothing.
In the end, it works...everything except my toggle does not click in like it used to...that's probably because of that rubber piece I did not know about. (A rubber piece fell out when I was taking it apart and I never figured out where it was supposed to go..so if anyone knows where that belongs and how it should be oriented..please post it.)
I took the stylus out.
I took the miniSD plastic blank out/ or miniSD memory card out just in case.
I took the battery cover off.
I took the battery out.
I set the camera lens in between the picture of the flower and the sun in the back.
I took the rubber piece out..there's a little probe looking thing behind it. (Probably was not necessary to take out.)
I took the back camera cover off. (Remove two Philips head screws with a PH0 head.) There are 7 notches holding it in place. [One above sun/flower adjuster, one slightly to the right above the flash hole, one above the rubber piece, one a tiny bit below the rubber piece, 2 on the insides at the bottom of the philips head screws, and one to the right of the speakerphone.]
I took the green circuit board that has camera flash behind the camera cover off. (Pops up off slot after removing one philips head screw.)
I took the camera unit off. (Do not pull up on camera, just pull the green board up off. The camera is sitting there, the board is wired like the camera flash board was plugged in, just pop it off.)
I took the cell phone antenna philips head screw off that is above where the camera was.
I took the 4 torx .050 allen head type size screws out to remove the back plastic cover of the phone off. Be very careful prying this portion apart. There are probably about 14 notches maybe that holds the back plate on. Some say to start trying to pry it apart from the antenna, but I was able to pry it apart from the bottom part of the phone on the antenna side... not where the antenna is. Be extremely careful how you pry this apart. You have to watch out for the speakerphone wires, there is a plug for what I think might be the keyboard and or LCD, the vibrating weight, and the main board itself... you don't want to scratch or sever any of these parts.
I slid the antenna off of the main board. Lift the board and gently pull up and out the black antenna.
I did not take the speakerphone off, but it looks like you have to pull the wire from the board that would still be attached to the back plate. The vibrating weight is also on the backplate.
I took the main board out of the phone. Keep the slider in mind between the IE button and the recorder button on the side of the phone. The black portion on the main board needs to line up with the actual switch you would slide up or down with your thumb on the side of the phone. When pulling the main board out, slide open the keyboard fully/halfway. Watch for a black rubber piece.
I removed the 4 philips head screws that hold the keyboard portion of the phone to the LCD portion of the phone together and lifted them apart. There is a silver/grey tape that you need to pop up the data cable and pull the tape off to completely separate the LCD portion.
I removed the 4 torx screws from behind the LCD screen and carefully took the LCD portion apart.
...ok well it's getting quite annoying to try and write everything I did after this, but it's pretty self explanatory. If it's not, you probably should not be changing your LCD in the first place anyhow. In order to release the LCD ribbon, the plastic piece at the end will need to pop up at an angle..it's kind of like a winch.
Here's a similar phone that gets taken apart if that helps you out in any way.
.........http://www.mdatweak.com/downloads/Wizard_Service_Manual.pdf
Pix 1-5 of 21 attached.
Pix 6-10 of 21 attached.
Pix 6-10 of 21 attached.
Pix 11-15 of 21 attached.
Pix 11-15 of 21 attached.
Pix 16-20 of 21 attached.
Pix 16-20 of 21 attached.
Pix 21 of 21 attached.
Pix 21 of 21 attached.
re
what is the toggle you are refering to? i took mine apart to clean around the screen without any instructions, and everything still works, but the digitizer has had it, where did you get your replacement from?
I got my replacement from eBay. goldelec
The LCD had a weird rainbow thing going on in the center of it, that you can see if you look at it at the right angle and the bottom corner looks bright white when the screen is on for an extensive period of time. Again, it works...better than what I had. I did not get great instructions, but what he sold me worked fine.
The toggle i'm talking about is the button in between the call and hangup buttons on the front face of the phone. That toggle switch just does not seem connected or stiff like it used to be. I can't "click" up/down/left/right or select anything. I am convinced the rubber piece goes behind it somewhere somehow. I just have to take it apart and figure out the orientation of it.
thanks for these pics & instructions, I just replaced with a part from goldelec on ebay as well (though the auction list instructions as part of the deal, they didn't come with my shipment, so your play-by-play was invaluable)...and there's no screws left afterward! Always a good sign.
Maybe this will help some people...
http://wiki.ppcgeeks.com/index.php?title=How_To:Disassemble_your_6700
lcd replacement instructions
www.htclcd.com has a lot of good lcd replacement instructions also
as well as the LCD's
I just took apart two 6700's today (had to replace the buttons on the face and the circuit board underneath so for now I scavenged the parts from my backup phone)
anyway the phone is surprisingly easy to take apart and surprisingly straight forward.
You do not even have to organize the screws as there is ONLY 2 kinds (I like that) and its obvious when to use each as they are very different in size.
a straight head will take out the star bits if your careful (if you have one of those many different jewlers drivers kits you will find one that fits just fine)
OK cover card stylus battery out.
4 screws. 2 dark large at the bottom 2 small silver at the top of the battery cavity (the one on the top right is hidden underneath a small white sticker)
Now the "top" plastic section comes apart. (the area with the camera) make sure the camera switch is ALL THE WAY one way first it will make things easier later.
Lift from the bottom LEFT there is a tab under the black antennae casing and a tab on the right next to the speaker. Pry gently and it will "pop free" don't YANK as the speaker is attached still.
Pop the speaker out (leave it attached no reason to mess with that wee connector.)
Remove the single screw from the center of those board. NOW caution there is a square white soft "seal" around the led do not lose it.
finger tail "pop" the boards out.
Camera module same thing finger nail "pop" the module pops out but those asside.
3 more larger dark screws remove them now.
Now you need to remove the back half the the shell. Lift with force till you have a small opening and start poking at the hold downs till you can work it free. the hang point is again the black antennae housing. This was the most difficult part to remove and it was not that hard. Use care so it will look clean when you put it back together if thats important to you.
Now you see the mother board. one single screw is left silver middle right side (away from antennae)
Time to remove the main board. you need to use CARE here as its "catched" on opposing side (the usb port and ear piece ports) and the Black antenna housing.) and also atached via a short ribbon cable.
Once you have it free SLIDE out the keyboard this will give you a lot more slack to lift up the main board and tilt it sideways.
Peel the tape carefully once its free it will "pop" free using the same style connector as the camera board etc.. used.
remove and put asside.
now remove the 4 screws holding the keyboard to the phone. its free put asside (those are the only 4 that are different just LEAVE them in there holes they will stay if you don't toss it around)
now remove the 4 black screws holding the back of the keyboard housing down. Pop it free (its not hard there are poke holes made for this like flat screwdriver slots)
once you do this the ribbon will slide through the opening no worries.
now act like your breaking a glow stick and "bend" the case sides so the screen can be popped up a little.
lift the orange tape and you will see a different kind of rubbon connector. its white with a tiny black flap. use a finger nail and lift it will ROTATE 90's to vertical. the ribbon cable will now pop free.
now remove the 2 screws holding down the circuit board. remove it and the button pad (this is why you had to lift the screen a little or these won't come out.
Thats it. I did not go further than this but I do not remember it "looking" like it would be hard at all to get the screen and digitizer out.
This is all straight from memory so read ALL this first and adapt as you progress. DO not take it verbatum.
If something does not want to give ASSUME you forgot a screw and be extra diligent to find it before attempting to increase the amount of force you use though sometimes it just "needs" a wee more force.
Good Luck
I should have taken pics which I usually do when I do this again I will take detailed pics.
Ohh dolt reassembly
do everything in reverse. thats it. here are some tips for the tricky spots.
Reinserting the button pad ribbon. IE reconnect the ribbon BEFORE you put it in. its a lot easier. make sure its in all the way push the flap back down push the tape back down. Easy
Rescrewing the keyboard into the main shell. Get it roughly lined up and LOOK INSIDE one of the holes as you wiggle it around. you will see the screw hole quite clearly when it appears. insert and screw down. Do one on the other side easy as pie.
When you put the main board back in you need to make sure the VOLUME slide switch is in the MIDDLE neutral position so it it lines up with the volume slider itself IE it has to move BOTH direction misalign this and it will be jammed one way or the other. Pop it apart and try again.
When you put the final cover back on make sure the SWITCH for the camera is in the same direction as the plastic lever (the actual switch) so that they line up when you snap them together.
thats it. Really not that hard.
It happened to me that the TC fell on the sidewalk face down, so I had to find and replace the screen. Couldn't find any pictorial guide so I decided to share my experience for the benefit of others with the same problem.
Cause: Cell phone shocked, fell down, hit
Symptoms: touch screen works OK, but display has cracks, blackened areas, which are spreading as time goes by.
Screen type : TC combines the matrix sensor (touch) and the LCD in 2 layers, the front touch-glass and shell, and the LCD itself underneath it.
Source of display: I bought via eBay on this source: Asia Bol
http://stores.ebay.com/newasiabol
Cost $70 inc. shipping and arrived within a week and a half. Rumors insists the at below $100 a screen is either factory dropout or refurbished.
Tools needed: Torx screwdriver T5-50, the size can be viewed after removing battery door, at lower corner.
A flat sharp tool ("fish knife") to help open the plastic case, but not too sharp to scratch the phone.
Here are the pictures and some notes:
1. Remove battery case and battery, SIM
2. Remove 2 screws from lower side
3. Prick open the shell with the flat tool
4. Prick open the top shell with the flat tool
5. CAREFUL as there are 2 tiny ribbons from the touch screen/hardware buttons into the PCB, one is held in place with sticky band (keys), the other (digitizer) is locked in-place with a lever, tiny one! - pull them out, not before noticing where they went into and lifting the lever on the smaller one.
6. Take apart the FRONT shell with the flat tool slowly as not to tear ribbons
7. Pull the LCD ribbon out
8. Carefully pull the old screen as it is held in place with sticky gum
9. Clean interior glass of phone if needed, pull out new screen protective sheet and put in place.
10. Connect new screen ribbon, 2 keyboard/jog tiny ribbons
11. Press shells in place
12. Pray you didn't forget anything and load SIM and battery
13. Good luck
more pictures...
following...(please note that where it's marked on the above picture as "jog wheel" - it is not. it's the glass digitizer ribbon.
Excelent work....!!!
Awesome man
Great contribution! You give me hope for the next generation of xda'ers!
Thank you!
Excellent work! Must be added to Polaris wiki page (if it hasn't yet!)
my lcd screen crashed 1 month ago. replaced a new screen for 450 CNY included the handwork fee.
great job.... thanks for sharing
My TC has got a big scratch on the screen (cheers to Jack, my cat who is responsible for that )...
I just ordered a new LCD screen, and by "mistake" i only ordered the digitizer...
Now after reading this post, it seems that I accidentaly did the right thing, since is only the front panel which is scratched and not the LCD itself... Am I correct?
Anyway do i have to disassemble the whole phone to get the front panel out???
As you see on the completly dismanteled TC picture above (left on the last picts row), there are:
Glass top, actually the outer top shell, and the LCD & Digitizer are one piece (the 'glassy' square with flat orange attachement)
If the scratch in on the shell glass, that's not the LCD screen, it is the so called "LCD LENS GLASS" or "faceplate".
If the TC fell and you see cracks and smears on the screen instead of what should be displayed, that's the LCD.
Please make sure where your scratches are.
Reuvenm said:
As you see on the completly dismanteled TC picture above (left on the last picts row), there are:
Glass top, actually the outer top shell, and the LCD & Digitizer are one piece (the 'glassy' square with flat orange attachement)
If the scratch in on the shell glass, that's not the LCD screen, it is the so called "LCD LENS GLASS" or "faceplate".
If the TC fell and you see cracks and smears on the screen instead of what should be displayed, that's the LCD.
Please make sure where your scratches are.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the Info,you ve been very helpful .... Well my scratch is on the outside and I couldnt find any outside faceplate for my TC... Instead I ordered the digitizer (see picture attached) which for me it seemed as the right option (I did that before reading your post )... Now I will just have to wait and see when it comes, if i did the right thing........ I will let you know
well, I was (and still) confused as I was looking for some info about the screen assembly, and the only one I've found was on this lab site (not particular to TC model though).
Please read the paragraph in RED starting with "ATTENTION..." later on that page (the link above includes Google's translation from russian).
More confusing is that the part you mention here IS available as is...
puzzle solved.
I was curious so I dismantled the TC again, than I notice the the glass shell IS carrying a tiny ribbon, which means IT IS the digitizer (I though it's coming from the hardware keys).
So I assume you ordered the right part.
Reuvenm said:
puzzle solved.
I was curious so I dismantled the TC again, than I notice the the glass shell IS carrying a tiny ribbon, which means IT IS the digitizer (I though it's coming from the hardware keys).
So I assume you ordered the right part.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
cheers... I feel ever so glad!!! ... but you would recon I would have to go through all the procedure to get it out and install the new one?
Actually it's a very delicate work with a steady hand and non scratching behaviour.
points to notice:
- The side silver bars are detached by sliding as well as pulling gently, as there are L shaped pins coming out of them into a niche in the body.
- The glass digitizer ribbon is run from one side of the main board into the other, so unlocking it (small lever and pull out) is needed as well as having the upper and rear shell apart as much as allowed, Or having the LCD wide ribbon out (& digitizer small one) and let the 2 shells free for easy access.
Saying that, it means that the procedure is almost identical as for replacing the LCD as the glass/digitizer is attached to front glass with sticky rubber and you need to get in there to release the tiny ribbon.
In your case I assume you also have to pull the bottom hardware keys' plate (assembly), in order to release it from the old shell/glass.
If that is the case, be carefull as the assembly is pinched into place by fragile plastic bumps that keep it in tight place in order to make a good push action (click). You'll have to widen the shell sides a bit and help it out.
! bent ribbon, and some mulfunction may occure.
Awesome Guide, Reuvenm you're the MAN!
I'd been searching all over for this guide so as to attempt to remove both the front and back camera. My Company just implemented this silly policy that doesn't allow phone w camera
Reuvenm, by any chance that you've had a good look at both the front and back camera and if it's a type which can be un-plug easily? Pls do not bother to disassemble the TC again, really. Just wanna check cos you may have shot some other pics of your disassembled gem that may show the front and back cameras
Anyway, great job and thanks a bunch in advance
you can disable the camera by software & registry, but I guess they want it to be out of sight..
as you see on the left pict on the first row of images, the front camera is a cubic aparatuse with 3-wings circle in the middle, just underneath the ext GPS antena hole:
this can be pulled out but I think it's ribbon (connection flat wires) is going via a cooling metal plate element and then to a PCB connector. Not sure about that as it's very delicate in there.
as for the back camera, I can't recall
here is a close up:
Hi Reuvenm, thanks for the really quick reply. Yeah i wanna get them removed altogether. So I took a leap of faith and viola! I had gotten the Back camera (3M pixel cam) out!
Followed the steps as you had illustrated and yes the 3M pixel camera was attached using some kind of L-shape flat metallic ribbon cable that ends up w a PCB connector. Wasn't difficult to remove though. I'll try to disassemble the Front camera tomorrow when i've got the time cos got to catch up on some work now.
A really big THANK YOU to Reuvenm for posting this amazing guide and i'll get some shots of the Front Cam removal and post them back here again.
Outstanding work man
You really got the guts gotta say
Elegantly done and explained!! I copied this guide with pics for future reference
This opens the door for a whole new era I guess, right guys!?
glass deformation
Hello gusy
Can you give me a suggestion ?
One day i noticed this "stain" on my screen when the device is off.
At first i thought it was liquid traped insinde the lcd (as seen on other phones) but it turned out not to be.
This stain is visible only in bright neon light (at my workplace), and it moves or dissapears almost completly when i press the screen.
Outside, or in normal light the sceen has no problem.
I think that the top glass part of the screen is to big and it bends a little causing this.
Can i remove the top layer of glass, cutt let's say a half of milimiter from the side, and stick it back on ? or is there someting holding it under ?
I noticed that in a corner i could peal it off, but i don;t want to take any chances to breack something.
thanks in advance
Hi all
My D pad has come off and I am just about to get a new keypad
for the front of the phone.
I have read the manual but its not very detailed about the keypad.
I have been told I can lift the keypad up at the front and pull it off
then the one I get will be sticky backed and I just have to put it back on
ion the right place but I am not sure about this.
so any help would be great
thanks for your time
Don't mess around with the keyboard assembly on the Vox. Mostly you make things worse. The keyboard consist of 3 layers and all are glued on the other only. So if one thing gets off, just re-glue it back. The Layers are:
1.) bottom: semi-flexible PBA, glued to the housing - contains also the sealed pushpads for the keys
2.) middle: rubber middle layer, glued to the PBA on dedicated edges to leave the room for the keys to press
3.) keys: one-by-one glued ot the rubber layer, so normally 2+3 is just one layer and it cannot easily be separated. If a key falls off, take a little super-glue and put it back where it should be.
Thanks for your answer
but I lost the D pad keys when they come off,
I have now got the new keypad and it looks like peel off the back paper
then it will stick to the board that plugs into the mother board.
but I am not trying to do it yet, I am waiting on HTC to email me back.
Well, than you have to remove the old Keypad+rubber layer. This is a lilttle destructive though as the sticky glue will not allow you to easily peel it off. As you see with the new keypad, there are little "noses" at several places (top: left + right & at the D-Pad and bottom: left + right). To peel it off, start at the side in the middle (no "noses" there) and work through the rest of the pad. After removal, clean the PBA carefully (eg. lighter-fuel) so that no glue remains and it is dry. This is very hard - I am not sure if you can remove the texture part of the glue on the PBA at all, I could not.
For re-assembly the tricky part is to get the pad flat and aligned to all edges BEFORE it fully sticks to the PBA. If it is not aligned it looks horrible, if it is not flat, you may end up with a hump in the middle - also horrible.
I think you have to start at top, insert noses first and when the top is aligned and fixed work the rest down, but take care about the bottom noses. You need to fit them in first by bending the pad up in the middle, inserting the noses (but not have it glued there), making it flat again (still not sticky) and then roll it downwards to fully stick. If the glue is very stick (which I hope) you have only one try. You may want to experiment with the removed one first. So have fun doing it...
BTW: Where die you buy it and how much you paid?
Thanks mate for the nfo.
I know a guy who has a dead vox so I will go and see if I can have it
and try what you said. Other then that I will have to pay a shop to do it.
Hey guys, I just wanted to share a simlple mod that I did with my gtablet this afternoon. It bothered me for quite some time that the home keys to the side of thescreen were not backlit. I have modified mine so that the keys themselves are not lit, but rather boxes next to them are. I only had two surface mount LED's to start this project, but with the success I've had I am going to order 2 more for the remaining 2 buttons. Have a look, If there is interest, I can take more pictures and maybe write up a walk through.
EDIT- I opted to stick with the original 2 leds as electronic goldmine didn't stock blue led's anymore. links to other colors are below
After removing the front case I noticed that the black border was just painted on the backside of the case, I used an exacto knife to scrape away 4 rectangular areas next to each one of the buttons which were now visible from both sides.
I used 30ga. magnet wire from radio shack to soldered both of the LED's that I would be mounting inside. I noticed on the backside of the metallic battery holding tray that there was a recessed channel the LED's could be tucked into and wired without interfering with any existing wires.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2036277
I powered them by tapping into the USB ports power of 5v. In the finished picture you can see that they are well lit, but I need 2 more LED's for the remaining 2 buttons.
Overall this was a pretty simple project, and I am waiting on the LED's I've ordered to finish her up. I'm sorry for not posting more pictures, but I wasn't sure how this would turn out and did not take many while I was modding it.
The led lights follow the power scheme of the USB port. this means that anytime the tablet is powered on, or in sleep mode they will be lit. I like it that way because it's easy to tell if i've accidentally left it powered on.
I have just started uploading the pictures detailing how I have modded my gtab. below is a link to the Led's I used in this process. it looks as though they now only carry green and yellow.
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G17030
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G17053
please use t3h_g3n3r4l's hardware breakdown and disassembly guide to get your gtablet open.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=842354
To save space, I am going to skip the soldering process, and concentrate more on the led placement and power connecting points I used in my mod.
The photo's start in post 26.
This looks really good...
I would definitely like a few more pics though
I did the same thing but without the hard work.
A simple drop of krazy glue, let it dry over night and I have a nice round button to show where each button is.
Wow! This is amazing. Nice work. Please keep us posted and feel free to do a full diy if u'd like. I'm sure several of us would like to try this. I personally would love to as I've recently torn apart my vibrant to add a front facing camera.
Again, thanks!
Sent from my VegaN 'flavored' Gtab...
Krazy-glue ... that's clever.
Sent from my VEGAn-TAB-v1.0.0B5.1 using Tapatalk
Very nice! Yes, I'd like to see more pictures or a walkthrough. Thanks!
Sent from my VEGAn-TAB-v1.0.0B5.1 using Tapatalk
walk through!!!
Yea......I too would love to get a detailed walkthrough with maybe some more pics!!!!!
This is a double rainbow thing.
Nice work!!
I love it! Why did you go with illumination next to, as opposed to under, the buttons? Capacitive soft button HW in the way? If the LEDs are angled towards the soft buttons could enough light leak through the button itself or is the HW interface there basically mated to the plastic?
Sent from my VEGAn-TAB-v1.0.0B5.1 using Tapatalk
TheTruth said:
I love it! Why did you go with illumination next to, as opposed to under, the buttons? Capacitive soft button HW in the way? If the LEDs are angled towards the soft buttons could enough light leak through the button itself or is the HW interface there basically mated to the plastic?
Sent from my VEGAn-TAB-v1.0.0B5.1 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also wonder the same.
Say can u do a DIY guide for this?? I would love to do this!!!! A step by ste with pics would be fantastic!!!!! Also were did u get the leds from? I m gonna start getting supplies so when there is a write up i m ready to go
Sent from my VEGAn-TAB-v1.0.0B5.1 using Tapatalk
nice work! but i'd like to disable those keys because they are easy to hit by accident while i doing something else.
Nice work! How bout a step by step walk through so we can do this too?
thaigai said:
Hey guys, I just wanted to share a simlple mod that I did with my gtablet this afternoon. It has bothered me for quite some time that the home keys beside the screen were not backlit. I have modified mine so that the keys themselves are not lit, but rather boxes next to them are. I only had two surface mount LED's to start this project, but with the success I've had I am going to order 2 more for the remaining 2 buttons. Have a look, If there is interest, I can take more pictures and maybe write up a walk through.
After removing the front case I noticed that the black border was just painted on the backside of the case, I used an exacto knife to scrape away 4 rectangular areas next to each one of the buttons which were now visible from both sides.
I used 30ga. magnet wire to soldered both of the LED's that I would be mounting inside. I noticed on the backside of the metallic battery holding tray that there was a recessed channel the LED's could be tucked into and wired without interfering with any existing wires.
I powered them by tapping into the USB ports power of 5v. In the finished picture you can see that they are well lit, but I need 2 more LED's for the remaining 2 buttons.
Overall this was a pretty simple project, and I am waiting on the LED's I've ordered to finish her up. I'm sorry for not posting more pictures, but I wasn't sure how this would turn out and did not take many while I was modding it.
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Out of curiosity did you try putting the LEDS behind the actual buttons themselves or is there wiring there? I only as because i would think the light would come through the white paint better than black paint.
Also has anyone thought of using electro-luminescence film? This is similar what they used to make the tron outfits and is paper thin to boot you could span the buttons with a small strip and light them all and it can be cut in to shapes as well as long as the one power connection is still in tack.
Just a thought.
how did you deal with the sleep function. Ideally you would want the LEDs to turn off after you turn the G-tab to sleep.
LeviathanUltima said:
how did you deal with the sleep function. Ideally you would want the LEDs to turn off after you turn the G-tab to sleep.
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VERY good point!!!!
That is a good point. When I put the tablet to sleep, it would still wake up from a USB connected keyboard and it would continue to charge my phone / Syma S107 (mini helicopter).
ketty_yijun said:
nice work! but i'd like to disable those keys because they are easy to hit by accident while i doing something else.
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Download ButtonRemapper from the market (I think it costs a buck), and set any references to Search, Home, Menu or Back to "Focus". Use Button Savior to add a little pull out drawer with the softkeys on screen.
I am going to poke around in the school supplies/office suplise of office depot/staples/target and see if i can find some small little textured stickers for just this purpose...probably the cheapest and easiest fix of all.
I do have one or those fiberoptic usb lights from years ago....seems like it would just be in the way though having that thing stuck on the side of the tab. Possibly one of those clip on book led book ligths from a book store???
just ideas....
My mate 8 is still working like a champ, but the top and bottom of the screen are peeled and it's very ugly (see the attached photos).
Currently I use a full body cover like this to cover that up. But the problem with those covers is that the auto-brightness doesn't work very well anymore because of the shade on the ambient light sensor.
Is there any solution for this except for replacing the screen and the stupid GLUE trick which might actually make the phone completely useless if not done right?
I was thinking it would be great if there was some sort of black sticker in shape of top and bottom bars where I could stick them on the screen top and bottom to cover this up (like black stickers with the correct shape of sensors).
Anyone?
hey, same problem here.
screen peeled off, but everything works.
i want to replace or glue it, how do i do it?
found online 2 versions of display, just the display and one with frame on.if i get just the display i need to somehow glue it to my existing frame - what do i use? liquid glue (like b-7000 or t-8000 types sold online) or double side tape (seen in a clip replacing a samsung display).
if i get the display with frame i have to move all the phone internals to the new display (battery, camera, electronic boards) - more money and labour.
those of you with experience, please help!