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When I take pictures of a sun scene with my Galaxy Nexus, using the panoramic mode, the light is not uniform so the picture looks horrible (See attached).
Is there an app which uses constant exposure, or something to fix this?
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using XDA
...nothing?
Info that might help
Hello! I haven't used the feature but I know from the making a panorama "rules" that you have to keep the same exposure in all 3 pictures that you plan to combine. There is huge difference in the amount of light(with and without sun) in the 3 pictures and on automatic mode the camera is trying to compensate in order to correctly expose the picture. Therefore you have to find the manual setting of the exposure and keep it the same for all 3 or any other number of pictures you take for the panorama.
Might help...let me know
It doesn´t work that way, it´s not a combination of three photos, the phone takes lots of them on a single movement, and then it builds the image. The problem is that the camera regulates the exposure automatically, there´s no manual mode.
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2. FxCamera
FxCamera, from ymst, offers what first appears to be a very simple interface with just 5 filters. However, it gains the number two spot in my list not only for it’s sharp focus and accurate exposure, but also because those 5 filters are just the categories for over 25 other sub-filters. The range is fantastic: from fish eye to reflection to comic book. Down side: Needs more stability during a shot to get the perfect focus. Price: Free.
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3. Cymera
Cymera, from SK Communications, comes in third with sharp focus and fast response time. It’s also another feature packed app worthy of any camera crazy shutterbug. Features include: 15 specialty filters, cropping, tilt-shift, liquify and more. It also comes equipped with anti-shake and timer settings. Down Side: Slower to start up, several second delay when saving a photo, color not as true. Price: Free
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The last two on my top 5 are apps that do not offer a ‘no filter’ setting. So these would be good for social sharing, creative posting, etc..
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Hi there,
This is not the forum for this sort of post. This forum is for developers and others to post apps & games, not blog posts. In the future, please post in the appropriate forum. If this work is copied from another place and isn't indeed your original work, please credit the original author. This thread is closed.
Cheers
Magnum_Enforcer
FSM
Hi. I have a problem with my S8+. U don't know if it is normal or not. Probably not (S7 photos were flawless, so S8 just can't be worse).
Take a look on this (same photo):
And
With autofocus set to upper left:
Left side is clearly blurred, right side is sharp as it should be.
PS shaking the phone with opened camera app does nothing.
I think you're asking if the periphery is out of focus?
Interesting question. Depth of field is the basic question, as I get it. What should be in focus, is based upon aperture (with correct speed: i.e. light). If I were trouble shooting an old camera, and checking the focus issue, I'd setup a field (stuff in the camera's focus range, at varying depths/distances from the camera), and take some photos in well lit conditions. It is important to know the 'depth of field' of a photo setting, so you can tell if the camera/lens and settings are all working as should be. The distance from the frontmost object, to the rear-most object still in focus, is called the 'depth of (the) field'
Check various distances/ranges from the objects, and see what comes out. If all is well there, I'd try different lighting variances, using the same distances as in step one.
Now, to test out the 'depth' portion of 'depth of field', you can set out a number of things, at varying distances, and given your 'depth of field' for your 'aperture', you should be able to see the things that are 'supposed' to be in the 'depth of field', all in focus. Remember, the smaller aperture, the smaller the hole that the light can pass through, the shorter, or less the 'depth of field', and the faster the shutter speed you can use (less light for a smaller hole). If you use a really large aperture, your camera will use a slower shutter/more light. If you go manual, which is a great way to learn how the camera 'depth of (the) field' works, you'll get a good understanding after a bit of time.
If the different distances and lighting comes out ok, both distance and lighting variances, I'd think you have a reasonable idea of the lens/camera portion is working correctly. The camera should take 'about' equally clear 'clarity', out to it's periphery.
If it's mux'ing up equally distanced (field of view) scenarios, I'd probably call Samsung. I advised well lit, so you can see what your are trying to investigate more clearly. using lighting variances would add to the 'evaluation' process, as that correlates more to a shutter speed.
You could go even further, by putting the camera into manual, and changing the aperture, test that out, and then the speed settings with varying arperture, testing that out . . .
but the basic 'auto' (auto aperture and auto speed) setting ought to work sufficient to get you the idea that yes, it is working/consistent/pretty clear at the periphery, or not. In very good cameras, with excellent lenses, the periphery is pretty spot on with the center of the lens, and that is with a great piece of glass. These cameras do a pretty good job, as well. Periphery is typically the more difficult ''depth of field'', as the lens, in some sense, is an approximation of your eye, with the higher definition in the center. Better lenses have a larger 'center' - some encompassing better to the periphery. Increasing the aperture increases the 'center' = greater 'depth', distance of the front most object that is in focus, to the objects behind a ways.
With the photos you posted up, it'd be necessary to know the aperture and speed being shot, to determine the depth of field (things that should be in focus based upon the aperture setting). Given the lighting, low/poor, a smaller aperture was likely used by the camera, with less/shorter depth of field.
Here is one example on how to calculate the 'field of view'.
http://shuttermuse.com/calculate-field-of-view-camera-lens/
There are hundreds of sites, but the calculation is basically about the same.
Also, if you could find someone near you with the same phone/camera, you could check their photos against yours, given the same parameters as above.
With your photos, above, if you were shooting (manual) with a hight speed, lets say, so less light coming into the lens, and small aperture, you'd have less 'depth of field', less things in focus. The larger the aperture, the more 'depth of field' you have. Speed needs to 'match', so you have the illumination good for the particular 'shot' you are wanting to accomplish. .So it's important to know the range, distance from the camera of the objects, to determining which ones 'should' be in focus, for the specific 'settings', i.e. aperture and speed (ISO) of film, or shutter speed, ASA..
I probably did not share this very eloquently, but I hope it gets across a few of the basic ideas?
Hope this helps.
@JeffDC -EDIT-
Are you trying to say that Galaxy S7 and S8 have different type of lens? I just tried to take a photo with autofocus set to left upper corner (landscape) and now the right side is blurred. IT never happened to me before in any phone or DSLR camera, but still, there is no such "effect" in S8 photos posted online, like https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/34287683905/in/album-72157682994456466/ - whole photo is sharp and clean.
EDIT 2, take a look on last photo in my first post. For me, there is definitely something wrong with my camera.
"Are you trying to say that Galaxy S7 and S8 have different type of lens? I just tried to take a photo with autofocus set to left upper corner (landscape) and now the right side is blurred. IT never happened to me before in any phone or DSLR camera, but still, there is no such "effect" in S8 photos posted online, like https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/34287683905/in/album-72157682994456466/ - whole photo is sharp and clean.
EDIT 2, take a look on last photo in my first post. For me, there is definitely something wrong with my camera."
I'm not saying anything about S7 or S8 differences. I was providing a method for you to test out your camera, no matter what type or from where.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/EKvnpp9ohD4zT45DA
I have a problem with both stock cam and Gcam, both pictures in the link are taken extremely close to the "first obstacle", a flower in one and plants in the other. In the flowers picture everything else gets blurred, in the plants picture where there is no clear focus object everything looks crispy.
I have noticed this with a lot of my photos, if there is something stealing the attention the camera blurs everything else too much, I want everything in my pictures to always be crispy ... how do I do that?
I just always use normal mode without touching anything else, don´t know much about photography, I just want the blurriness gone.
@AurioDK just use tap to focus, when you are taking a photo, tap the part of the screen you want to focus. Works for the front camera too if you take some pics there
manor7777 said:
@AurioDK just use tap to focus, when you are taking a photo, tap the part of the screen you want to focus. Works for the front camera too if you take some pics there
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But I don´t want to focus on anything usually, I just want the picture to be all crispy like the "plant" one. Should I just click on the sky or some object in the distance? The funny thing is that I don´t have this problem with indoor pictures, only outdoors.
AurioDK said:
But I don´t want to focus on anything usually, I just want the picture to be all crispy like the "plant" one. Should I just click on the sky or some object in the distance?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can use Pro mode (swipe up at bottom of camera app). It will take longer to get a shot, but if you were using a dslr I would expect the same. Its the 3rd option in pro mode, a focus wheel with very nice haptic feedback.
AurioDK said:
But I don´t want to focus on anything usually, I just want the picture to be all crispy like the "plant" one. Should I just click on the sky or some object in the distance? The funny thing is that I don´t have this problem with indoor pictures, only outdoors.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You've got the terms reversed somewhat. What you want is everything in focus, not 'non focused'. If something is not in focus, it is blurry. You seem to be replacing the word "focus" with "crispy" which is just making up words and confusing the issue. I read the thread title to mean you want everything in the photo to be blurry (which is what it is saying in reality) which would just make it look like the camera is broken!
If your distance to the subject is very small, and the background is very far, you aren't going to be able to get both in focus. It's just the physics of how lenses/cameras work. If you change the focus point to a distant object, the subject (near object) will be blurry. You can't focus on both, if they are too far apart.
The reason you don't see this problem indoors, is due to the fact that the background is much closer. It's the distance between the subject and the background (particular outdoors, where the background tends to be much farther away) that is causing the background to blur. Find an indoor setting, with the same distance (between subject and background) and I guarantee that you will have the same result (blurry background).
The closer the objects in the photo are to each other (distance to the camera) the easier it is to get them both in focus. You can decrease the background blur, by increasing your distance to the subject (near object) but you may lose the intended composition. Using the "Pro" mode as another suggested, is also a good idea. Use a smaller aperture (higher f-stop number) and minimal optical zoom. Since both aperture and focal length (optical zoom) both affect the depth of field (which in turn determines how blurry the background will be). In fact, I can see from the photo metadata in your gallery, that the photos are taken at f/1.65, which is a very large aperture, and maximizes background blur. Force the f-stop to a larger value in "Pro" mode, and you will likely see the background blur decrease. Although distance to subject, and distance of the background are still major factors.
Also keeping in mind that changing the f-stop will also affect the shutter speed and ISO. They are all inter-dependent, and known as the "exposure triangle". So you may need to manipulate the ISO or shutter speed to achieve the desired results.
Note: Made some major edits to the post. I noticed the pics in the gallery are taken at f/1.65 (presumably on automatic settings), which may be a major factor in the background blur. Somewhat changed some of my thinking on how to get the results that are desired by the user.
AurioDK said:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/EKvnpp9ohD4zT45DA
I just always use normal mode without touching anything else, don´t know much about photography, I just want the blurriness gone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I little reading on how depth of field works may answer your question and also help you take the pictures with desired results. There is an easy read at:
https://digital-photography-school.com/understanding-depth-field-beginners/
redpoint73 said:
You've got the terms reversed somewhat. What you want is everything in focus, not 'non focused'. If something is not in focus, it is blurry. You seem to be replacing the word "focus" with "crispy" which is just making up words and confusing the issue. I read the thread title to mean you want everything in the photo to be blurry (which is what it is saying in reality) which would just make it look like the camera is broken!
If your distance to the subject is very small, and the background is very far, you aren't going to be able to get both in focus. It's just the physics of how lenses/cameras work. If you change the focus point to a distant object, the subject (near object) will be blurry. You can't focus on both, if they are too far apart.
The reason you don't see this problem indoors, is due to the fact that the background is much closer. It's the distance between the subject and the background (particular outdoors, where the background tends to be much farther away) that is causing the background to blur. Find an indoor setting, with the same distance (between subject and background) and I guarantee that you will have the same result (blurry background).
The closer the objects in the photo are to each other (distance to the camera) the easier it is to get them both in focus. You can decrease the background blur, by increasing your distance to the subject (near object) but you may lose the intended composition. Using the "Pro" mode as another suggested, is also a good idea. Use a smaller aperture (higher f-stop number) and minimal optical zoom. Since both aperture and focal length (optical zoom) both affect the depth of field (which in turn determines how blurry the background will be). In fact, I can see from the photo metadata in your gallery, that the photos are taken at f/1.65, which is a very large aperture, and maximizes background blur. Force the f-stop to a larger value in "Pro" mode, and you will likely see the background blur decrease. Although distance to subject, and distance of the background are still major factors.
Also keeping in mind that changing the f-stop will also affect the shutter speed and ISO. They are all inter-dependent, and known as the "exposure triangle". So you may need to manipulate the ISO or shutter speed to achieve the desired results.
Note: Made some major edits to the post. I noticed the pics in the gallery are taken at f/1.65 (presumably on automatic settings), which may be a major factor in the background blur. Somewhat changed some of my thinking on how to get the results that are desired by the user.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I found out how, your post gave me the answer. It´s as you said, I need to keep a certain distance to the closest object and the margin between an "all focus" and "object focus only" picture is very small. I played a bit with a coke bottle on a lawn to get a feeling and I think I now have it. I finally managed to get the pictures I wanted, it´s just a matter of keeping the closest object a bit further away. Thank you.