Over heating/DVR issues? - MTCD Android Head Units Q&A

Anyone had any over heating or DVR issues?.
Recently after nasty traffic trip of 2 hours (longest trip so far with this unit) I noticed that the OBDII torque app wouldn’t work (not unheard of) but then the sound attenuation wasn’t snapping off after nav directions, so I tried the volume knob and guess what no response, buttons not working and within seconds the whole unit packed up totally.
Did a reset and it was still glitchy.
Then I realised it was red hot, pulled the trim away and touched under the unit and it was burning hot.
Since then it’s crashed a few times and Waze (normally rock solid) has acted up with issues around gps signal being slower than my driving and just hanging and crashing.
Ps is the uk and it’s wet and cold, also tons of space inside the dash as it’s installed in a Van.
One thing at the time was that I have the usb in the glove box and at the time I was using it to keep my phone charged. Not sure if that was a factor?.
Since the. I’ve stopped charging the phone off that as I now have the DVR and DAB(not used the dab yet). But I’ve found the dvr cottage is jerky and that when running the DVR it causes the Rev cam footage to jump a few times too (sketchy when reversing in tight areas in the van).
So any one experienced over heating?, could one overheating event have damaged the cpu?, and could the DVR issue be related this?. Or does the DVR take a lot of processing power?.
Not an expert but when Inlookednin settings the rams never been used beyond 50% since the DVR was hooked up and the DVR is digital and the Rev cam is analog so why would it affect it?, but it really does.
Had a nightmare with separate dash cams (3 off amazon in a row had faults) so was hoping the dvr would be the answer.
Loath to lose it just today coming back from the woods with the family a Z4 nearly Head on’d us on a narrow lane as he swerved off the main road!!.
I’ve already agreed to return it to audio tech direct after Xmas as the green phone buttons dead but should I complain about the overheating and demand a replacement?. It’s only 2 months old

Give them a link to your post and google similar problems to find others with the same heat issue.
I installed 2 fans in my unit (not the same as yours) one directly on the cpu heatsync sucking the hot air off and another bigger pc fan that sucks the hot air out of the whole unit which is overkill but whatever lol

Hi, luckily they are replacing this one. Cooling wise I was thinking about sticking fans on the vent holes to suck hot air out and wire into the ignition so they come in with the radio, can attach on top externally and not void warranty. Won’t be able to add a heat sink though without opening up. Though I peeked into the Holes and there seem to be a corregated aluminium plate on top of the cpu, more ribbed than finned. Could that be a factory heat sink?
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I'm having exactly the same issue as you....
I have a PX5 Xtrons (GS) head unit and whenever i run Waze/Google Maps or any navigation app, after 30+ minutes , i get a "GPS lost, searching for GPS" message and the tracking starts to lag behind. Changing tracks/radio stations or volume at that time has a big delay. Today i got a "Temperature too hot" message and system shuts down.
How do i go about adding a fan/heat-sink onto these things? are there any tutorials etc?

Don’t know, there’s holes in top so I’m planning on a small 12v fan on top to suck the hot air out. Going to take a feed off the 12v power socket. Don’t want to open and stick heat sinks on as it’s under warranty but the fans can double tape externally.

Cid6.7 said:
Give them a link to your post and google similar problems to find others with the same heat issue.
I installed 2 fans in my unit (not the same as yours) one directly on the cpu heatsync sucking the hot air off and another bigger pc fan that sucks the hot air out of the whole unit which is overkill but whatever lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can I ask how you powered your fans? I added a few heat-sinks to my system and although now it runs much smoother, temperatures do go up to 110-115 degrees Celsius. So now instead of becoming slow after 30 minutes, it now takes over an hour. I noticed a fan shaped hole in the back of my system which i am thinking about attaching a small fan on to to suck the warm air out.

alpha247 said:
Can I ask how you powered your fans? I added a few heat-sinks to my system and although now it runs much smoother, temperatures do go up to 110-115 degrees Celsius. So now instead of becoming slow after 30 minutes, it now takes over an hour. I noticed a fan shaped hole in the back of my system which i am thinking about attaching a small fan on to to suck the warm air out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wired them to aux power in line and ground.
I plan on in the future finding a heat sensor so when the unit reaches a certain temp they'll turn on and off automatically

So my cheap fans arrived from China and I’ve temporarily taped them over the vent holes on the top, after some messing around I’ve opted to push cool air in so have placed them to blow into the top holes, can feel air coming out of the opposite top vent holes, hoping this will help till I work out how to duct the permanent cool duct my van has into the unit. Terrible radio interference when the fans are on now though and ideas how to avoid that?

It’s ok seems to have settled. Blue tooth is crapping out now so may just return.

Related

[Q] Tab 7 Plus good for in car use and under sunlight?

Hi guys, I'm planning to retrofit an android tablet into my car, like this:
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[Taken from: http://www.rx8club.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=7789]
It'll be in exactly the same position as the screen in the photo, except I plan to use the Galaxy Tab 7.0 Plus (the photo is a Dell Streak 7). I've read some threads about excessive heat generated especially while using and charging the tablet. I think this'll be an even greater problem if I put it in that housing and have it under direct sunlight.
Do you guys think this tablet is a good idea for this application? Also, how does the screen fair under sunlight?
I'm also considering the HTC Flyer as an alternative, but that's a bit bulkier and the front face of the tablet isn't flat, the top and bottom parts of the bezel stick up slightly.
It's fairly glossy, so reflection will be an issue if the sun is at the right angle.
You can easily hook up a vent and a quiet fan if heat is going to be a serious issue, so I'd think you can work around that fairly easily.
Very cool setup
The steering wheel is on the wrong side of your car.
I used my 7 Plus as a GPS high on the dash, for a long trip. At night the headlights reflecting off it drove me nuts, when the sun hit it is was bad, other then that it worked well.
It is quite literally on the 'right' side of the car..lol. That's not my car but it is what I plan to do.
Thanks for the quick replies, another question I have is regarding the GPS. I have a Nexus S and my experience with Samsung is that their GPS receiver is rather poor compared to those used by HTC. My previous Nexus One could find my location faster and track me much better than my Nexus S, which tends to lose signal when I'm under a tree..
Also, I'm open to suggestions for other possible tablets.
My GPS has been stellar for in-car nav and geo-caching. Locks way faster than my epic 4g ever did and I can usually get 10+ sats even in car.
Can anyone tell me how good is the screen brightness? I've read some reviews and they say that the screen is pretty dim compared to other tablets. I'm afraid that I wont be able to see it under the sun.
I'm currently looking for some used Tab 7 Pluses on eBay, they're so rare...
I use my P6200 for driving navigation for a few times already.
I think the brightness is acceptable but I always have to adjust the angle to avoid reflection. I am thinking of replacing the screen protector with anti-glare one.
i used mine 4 to 5 times already for navigation.. i suggest getting a matte screen protector..
Thanks for all great information! So I guess screen brightness is alright, the main issue is the glossy screen. I'll definitely buy an anti-glare screen protector once I find a used galaxy tab 7 plus on ebay...
Hi everyone, I've got another questions regarding the Tab 7 Plus. I know it doesn't use micro usb but rather a samsung connector.
Can someone please tell me how much this protrudes from the tablet when connected? I need to make sure I have enough space for it. Thanks!
I have another question: If you plug in a charger while the tablet is sleeping does the screen turn on?
daisun said:
I have another question: If you plug in a charger while the tablet is sleeping does the screen turn on?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes
Sent from my GT-P6210
Could you also tell me how much the charger plug protrudes from the tablet body when connected?
daisun said:
Could you also tell me how much the charger plug protrudes from the tablet body when connected?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
About 2 cm, the connector plug itself is about 1 cm but the start of the cable isn't flexible.
Sent from my GT-P6210
I have the Galaxy Tab 7+ mounted in my dash where my stock CD player was. I don't have any issues with the device overheating. I live in GA and it is usually pretty hot down here, but I do take the tablet out of the car when I am not in it.
I don't have any real issues with seeing the screen as long as the brightness is all the way up on sunny days. I think my device being lower and in the dash helps reduce the glare on the screen a lot.
I have taken it on trips of about 2-3 hours but not any longer than that. I was using GPS and streaming internet radio or listening to audiobooks the whole time and the device didn't get hot.

Simple but amazing Orb Car Mount (Too Many Pics)

I would like to first like to state that I am amazed by the stability of the orb as a car mount. I have been searching high and low, thinking about settling on the Owl car mount, waiting on the Nokia car mount (going as far as purchasing the Nokia Wireless Charging Plate, for testing purposes only to return it due to it sucking) or just giving up and getting the old faithful ProClip / Brodit charging dock specifically for our phone( didn't want to spend 70 buck on the one specifically for the bumper only later to decide to run naked).
I knew that I would be ordering a couple of orbs (office and nightstand) but the thought crossed my mind," Hey what if I build( or have built) a mount around the orb?" SO I sat down with a friend of mine who does metal work and did some explaining of my idea. Basically I would mount the orb to the back of a piece of 3/32 or thinner aluminum folded on three sides, with a three inch whole cut into the center of the mount and then fasten it to the den under my car stereo. Simple enough for him to pull off, but not like it would happen overnight.
So, I received my Orb Wednesday, drove home and started brainstorming, I present to you that brain storm.
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Used a disk from one of the millions of car mount I have had in the past
I double stacked some 3M double side sticky tape, in order to level out the cars change compartment. The double side tape sticks to the console in order to keep the tray door from opening while leveling the disk out..
I then cut ( read tore) more double side sticky tape, doubled it up an d placed it within the cut out on the bottom of the Orb. Make sure you leave the tape's paper on it and get a good feel of the rotation you want. I rode with it for a day, angled toward my drivers seat. During my re-install, I chose to have it straight forward
I simply lined the Orb up parallel, but some may find it more comfortable or ergonomic to slant it toward the drivers seat.
So there is no question of the stability of the phone on the orb, I drive a V6 Honda Accord W/ manual transmission. It is ridiculously fast and has 2 Diamond Audio 10's on 1100 watt amp along with 600 watts on Focal mids and highs. I only mention this to give you an understanding that I put the Orb to the test, hitting S-curve entry ramp at 70+mph while accelerating onto the highway, banging 2-mello's latest Chrono The car was vibrating,mirrors shaking and moving at pretty decent acceleration and deceleration rates. I took hard rights and lefts, went over horrible railroad tracks,and NOTHiNG moved the phone at ALL.
If you have any questions, ask away.
Ride around with GPS on while charging on it. Let me know if you have issues.
I'll check it out tomorrow, on my easy to work.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
I loaded Google Navigation, connected to Bluetooth, launched Player Pro and started my 18 minute commute to work this morning. I have a clear view of the sky (no skyscrapers) all of the way to work. I never lost GPS signal, kept screen on in navigation, music playing and I gained 1% for battery status. I'd say it works perfectly for my needs. I may still have a riser built to bring it up higher but I see no reason to shield the phone from rocking or falling off of the orb
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
Is it weird to have to look down while driving to do stuff on your phone?
The must I do is change music (swiping) answering a call (swiping). If I text is BT voice with
https://play.google.com/store/apps/...hough.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
Yeah I refuse to use windshield ones too, and unfortunately the proclip mount for my car is too far to the right for me to reach with ease, not to mention having to look right every time I need to touch it.
I have a place like yours that I could put the Orb too.. but does that location ever get in the way of your shifter?
Not at all. I can actually place it landscape or portrait. Only downfall is, which isn't a big deal, I now prefer to be in 2nd, 4th, 6th for a better line of site. Honestly though, I may have a friend build a short platform for it out of some nice expanded stainless steel... maybe 4 inches. I'll update with pics when I do
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
A little update, I did some driving today and had the phone in portrait. Accelerated fairly fast from a stand still in order to hit a very big bump that I knew was in the road and the phone shifted a little. Enough that Tasker noticed a change in state and turned off Bluetooth, and then right back on. So basically the phone is more stable in horizontal state when accelerating. It didn't fall off of the orb, but did shift enough to stop charging for a micro second.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
What is the temperature in your area at this time of the year?
Many people reporting inductive charging problems in warm/hot weather
Sweet! If only my cigarette lighter worked in my car............:fingers-crossed::fingers-crossed::fingers-crossed:
lifeisfun said:
What is the temperature in your area at this time of the year?
Many people reporting inductive charging problems in warm/hot weather
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm in south Texas, generated generally temperatures vary so much here, but right now between 90f-60f of course I keep my car at an ambient of 70f when possible... Summer is coming, so we shall see
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
Thanks for sharing! Do you have your phone in a case? I wonder if the case won't stick well to the orbit.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using xda app-developers app
danillll said:
Thanks for sharing! Do you have your phone in a case? I wonder if the case won't stick well to the orbit.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the official bumper
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
I am planning the same sort of setup, if only I can get hold of an Orb in Australia!
Do you actually need to use the plastic disc from your old car kit? As it happens I have one lying around too, but thought I could simply double sided tape the orb directly to the console on my Golf. Looks like you could have done this too. Why not? To date I have been propping my N4 in much the same location as you have in my Golf and I find the maps easy enought to use there. Not so good for hands free though, unless car has BT which mine does not.
Does the charger end of the micro USB cable that comes with the unit terminate in a regular USB connector?
logger said:
I am planning the same sort of setup, if only I can get hold of an Orb in Australia!
Do you actually need to use the plastic disc from your old car kit? As it happens I have one lying around too, but thought I could simply double sided tape the orb directly to the console on my Golf. Looks like you could have done this too. Why not? To date I have been propping my N4 in much the same location as you have in my Golf and I find the maps easy enought to use there. Not so good for hands free though, unless car has BT which mine does not.
Does the charger end of the micro USB cable that comes with the unit terminate in a regular USB connector?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I chose to use the disc in order to solidify my placement, my car has a change compartment and a cigarette lighter compartment, which have doors that open when pushed. I took the disc to "nail" the change door to my console to keep it from opening. I dont see why you couldn't double side it directly to your console, keep in mind, it has a small divot in the bottom, that will require you to double up on common sticky tape. I do in fact have BT in my car, so it is very convenient. The orb has a female end of a usb, so you can use any charger you choose. I had previously ran a micro-usb to my car mount for my S3(infuse), so I just plugged it in. I have an iLuv cigarette adapter and it seems to work great as far as charging time.
I have been brainstorming on how to modify a case as a sort of life jacket, while giving people some reassurance for their device. I actually have a second bumper that I have been giving some thought to, but honestly I feel completely safe where its at. Of course if someone wanted to mount it higher, I could see it would be a little scary.

Perfect Run/Bike Companion - My Accessories Setup

I chose the Z1 Compact as I like to run/bike with my phone; not so that I can use things like Strava/RunKeeper/Endomondo etc but becuase I
a. listen to music
b. take calls
c. take photos
d. like my loved ones to track me in case of emergency
e. make calls in case of emergency
etc
So the high spec, waterproofness and size really appealled to me
And I have to say.. it is proving a delight.
I have now finalised my run/bike setup and thought you guys might be interested in the set up.
Photos attached
Run:
Armband: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sony-Xperia-Z1-Compact-Shocksock/dp/B00HUGVTIE
I have tried various armband cases over the decades (!!) but this one I have for the Z1 Compact is the best to date (and one of the cheapest)
It has a nice amount of stretch, a little key pocket and nice velcro closure that doesn't rub.
I would say though that it is not a tight fit in the armband case (it is NOT custom made for the phone).. but that is fine with me as I can easily slip in and out, it works with my normal case I have for the phone, and is still secure and not had issues on long runs (+20k)
If you want the smallest possible case for the phone then look elsewhere
The screen is responsive enough through the clear screen, but as with all the cases, the power button of the phone is in a bit of an awkward position
Bike:
Handlebar case: http://topeak.com/products/bags/smartphone_drybag_5in_bk2
Why bother with a waterproof case?
Well.. I suppose I didn't really need to, but I wanted something for the handlebars that would protect it in case of a fall a bit more, but wouldn't be too bulky. (also.. I could be on the bike in the rain for upwards of 6hrs.. not sure if the IP rating could handle that!)
The fit is actually perfect: I can just squeese in with the my normal case (Krussel FrostCover) still on. Without the case it is still a nice and snugg fit with no flapping around.
Screen responsive enough through the clear plastic front
The power button is okayish to press on the go
The downside I see with this is that the inbuilt clip on the back means that on bumps it can 'slap' a bit, so I might look at fixing that somehow (the case is good enough that I would want to do that rather than look for another solution)
also, if you wanna take phonts you need to take out of the waterproof case.
Run/Bike:
Headphones: http://www.jaybirdsport.com/bluebuds-x-bluetooth-headphones/
I understand people who say you should not use headphones while running/biking outdoors, but I do like to do it
These bluetooth headphones are the best out there.
Expensive but worth it: can use in the rain, no long cord, answer calls etc.
They have already proven the best sports headphones I have ever bought
The only downside I would say is that the stock earbuds can fall out, so I use comply foam buds (http://www.complyfoam.com/products/S-500/)
That makes the fit perfect and secure (can run for 2hrs without needing to adjust once)
No dropouts.
Hope this is helpful.
I really am in a near perfect place now with my setup.
I first started looking for the ideal set up to run/bike with, in 2002 (using the first phone that I started to run with).. I have finally found it (until the wearable tech means I use something other than a phone in a few years)
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Milkywaye said:
I chose the Z1 Compact as I like to run/bike with my phone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you very much for your feedback :good:. Quite similar need for me: day long mountain bike and hike sessions.
I'm curious about any setup allowing charging the phone with a dynamo, but still being waterproof, or anything allowing to extend the battery life for a complete day of use as GPS track recorder and map. I have in mind a setup based on something similar to the Shimano Dynamo Generator Hubs.
Regarding the power button, I hope Tap2Wake & Wake 2 Touch, or any other similar feature, will be soon available for the Z1 Compact.
Scalpos said:
Thank you very much for your feedback :good:. Quite similar need for me: day long mountain bike and hike sessions.
I'm curious about any setup allowing charging the phone with a dynamo, but still being waterproof, or anything allowing to extend the battery life for a complete day of use as GPS track recorder and map. I have in mind a setup based on something similar to the Shimano Dynamo Generator Hubs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah.. the phone batteries are not quite up to the extended rides or ultras.
tbh that is why I use a Garmin Edge for my long rides (i don't need to go longer than that battery allows) and not use my phone for tracking.
in the past I have used different things for keeping the juice of my phone going (additional batteries, external batter packs etc).. but I think this is one of the weaknesses of the phone for that application
[1] the magnets on the magnetic charging socket tend to be weak so on a bike you will probably need to keep on reconnecting or use some sort of tape to tape the socket in place
[2] the normal usb charging socket is in an awkward position.. so the cable would jut out to the side.. but worse.. you lose the waterproofness and more worryingly, the flap is in a dangerously vulnerable position to breakage
[3] no removable battery
If i needed to charge on the go (on the bike) then I would defintely look at utilising the magnetic socket and tape the plug n place.
that would then leave the issue of keeping the phone out of the elements (especially on extended downpours) and for that you would need a different mount to the topeak one (not broad enough to have the charger in the bag as well)
there is also the other issue of amps.. you need to make sure that the phone is being given enough amps to actually charge. not sure a dynamo would do that,.. but those battery packs would if you choose the right one
---
When you do get something sorted.. then post piccies! very interested to see what you come up with
Nice post!
I used the same Topeak case with my late SGS3, which was a very tight fit...
I have used it in different conditions over half a year and found one big nuissance with it. That clear plastic gets foggy from the inside and you have to clean that up every now and then (sealed rolled and everything). And I'm not a neat freak... also I don't have sticks for fingers, so cleaning all of it is just not pleasant...
As for the charging en route... you could still hook the dynamo output by soldering the wires (actually with some connector) to a solar battery - as complimentary powersource to the solar cell. Then charge from that, which gives a more stable output. Worst case scenario is that going downhill may fry a solar battery instead of the phone...

Magnetic micro usb adapter /cable

I read that the usb port of Mi max is very easy to scratch, is using magnetic micro usb adapter or cable a good solution?
Sent from my SM-T715 using XDA-Developers mobile app
So you'd rather have something stick out than some scratches only visible if you specifically look for them? I wouldn't even noticed them if didn't read this few days back.
I really don't get it...
It's just a phone, tool ment for every day use.
nijel8 said:
So you'd rather have something stick out than some scratches only visible if you specifically look for them? I wouldn't even noticed them if didn't read this few days back.
I really don't get it...
It's just a phone, tool ment for every day use.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree. Anybody who knows me personally will tell you that I am anally retentive when it comes to the condition of my gadgets. Seeing someone use a phone with a cracked screen induces almost Jack the Ripper levels of rage in me but this isn't a huge problem. I have had this phone for around 5 days now and can see some very very small scuffs on the bottom of the charging port but only when I hold the phone very close to my eyes and specifically look for them.
It might also help that I haven't used the cable that came with it. At work I charge the phone using an old Blackberry cable and at home I've either used the cable from my PS4 controller or a high-speed fabric threaded one that I picked up on a market in Hong Kong last year. None of those cables have small studs on the micro-USB plug that I have seen on some other cables over the last few years. I have no idea what the included cable is like as it is still in the box untouched.
I wouldn't be happy if something that affects functionality shows up over time too.
Actually Mi Max USB port is very well protected from getting loose over time with that tight frame opening and that's why it gets some minor scuffs. I'd rather have that than loose port with weak electrical contacts. That's exactly what I had with my previous $850 Samsung Note3 in less than 6 months of use. Mi max won't develop this because USB cable connector is supported by the frame, not the port only...
micro USB
I believe that the micro USB - is a big mistake. Its construction took not engineers, and a herd of old. Built on a design twist on the wrong side. Back Lighting. Look into the micro USB - you see an unfortunate engineering decision. It's like Apple revenge, and we are paying the price. 5 contacts arranged on a plastic plate of 0.5 mm thick. Which hangs in the air. After 2 years of daily use, this plastic (probably made from waste and old bottles) turns into a rag. I have a phone with a cable fell onto the pillow !!! Now the connector loose. This occurs when the decisions are made by intriguers, not engineers, but the entire planet obeyed. Where were the engineers at the factories, and even in China? Are you afraid to say too much words and held on to his salary?
Based on the foregoing, Type-C with 24 contacts - even sillier.
Whiter than a weak structure, not protected from the slightest mechanical impact, it is difficult to come up with.
Perhaps a little magnetic cable will extend the life of my micro USB connector, although the charging current is reduced by approximately 25%.
In the USSR before the shot for wrecking the economy. In some ways, my grandfathers were right.
seregadushka said:
I believe that the micro USB - is a big mistake. Its construction took not engineers, and a herd of old. Built on a design twist on the wrong side. Back Lighting. Look into the micro USB - you see an unfortunate engineering decision. It's like Apple revenge, and we are paying the price. 5 contacts arranged on a plastic plate of 0.5 mm thick. Which hangs in the air. After 2 years of daily use, this plastic (probably made from waste and old bottles) turns into a rag. I have a phone with a cable fell onto the pillow !!! Now the connector loose. This occurs when the decisions are made by intriguers, not engineers, but the entire planet obeyed. Where were the engineers at the factories, and even in China? Are you afraid to say too much words and held on to his salary?
Based on the foregoing, Type-C with 24 contacts - even sillier.
Whiter than a weak structure, not protected from the slightest mechanical impact, it is difficult to come up with.
Perhaps a little magnetic cable will extend the life of my micro USB connector, although the charging current is reduced by approximately 25%.
In the USSR before the shot for wrecking the economy. In some ways, my grandfathers were right.
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Click to collapse
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Ticwatch Pro 3 GPS hardware sensor repair

Apparently watchback sensor failure is a very common thing on the Ticwatch Pro 3 family. One look at the Mobvoi support forum will show you that.
I made this post to the Mobvoi forum and it was moderated into oblivion. Mobvoi does not want people to know the truth.
I recently suffered the same thing on my Pro 3 GPS, conveniently two months after the warrantee ran out. Mobvoi, who should really extend the warrantee period for sensor failures since they are endemic, only offered me 30% off of a new watch. I figured I had a good chance of fixing it myself and, if I screwed it up worse, they'd take the busted watch in trade since all they do is shred the returns anyways.
Having seen a teardown photo of an earlier Ticwatch, I figured either the watchback flex cable connector had come loose, or the breather valve had leaked (even though I don't swim with this IP68 rated watch I do take the occasional shower). There was plenty of evidence for both cases reading between the lines of the Mobvoi forum.
To open the case it was not enough to merely remove the four, #3 Torx fasteners from the back. It turns out the back is glued on with some RTV-like material. Very careful work with a razor blade and some screwdrivers from tiny to merely small to pry the back apart was successful. Sure enough, I had both problems. The flex connector was loose, and there was evidence of water intrusion and corrosion on the board which surrounds the breather valve.
I cleaned the board up, painted on some new RTV with a pin under a microscope (this is very fussy, delicate work, probably not for the over-caffeinated), put it back together and it now works fine. The only downside is that I no longer want to get the watch wet since I have no way to pressure test it.
If I could do this over again, I probably would have warmed the watch in a 150F oven just to try to loosen the RTV a little before attempting to remove the watchback. Mobvoi could have made this an easily repairable item if they had used a more conventional gasket, but why would they want to do that?
Some photos showing the flex connectors and the board near the breather valve. Ignore the glue remnants, those were cleaned off later and were not a factor in the failure. I thought it was worth posting this somewhere in the hope it might help someone else, and Mobvoi won't allow it at their place.
Flex lead and plug from sensors. This was found halfway out of the board receptacle:
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Board receptacle for flex connector:
The breather valve is the assembly found in the round hole in the middle of the marked board. That board, the IC on it, and the passives on it had corrosion all over them. Luckily they cleaned up well with a spudger, some swaps, and some isopropyl under the microscope:
Hey what kind of sensor issues did you got?
I've been seeing intermittent HR and SO2 sensor issues in my ticwatch pro3.
I've read a bunch of posts in the mobvoi forums that talk about similar issues linked to water damage...
The weird thing is that when I restart my watch, usually, the sensors start working again, them they randomly stop working after a few hours or so.
This weird behaviour leads me to believe that this is some software thing (like a weird firmware bug), not water damage...
Anyway, loved the post, and I'm really tempted to replicate... But I'm really afraid to damage my watch and end up having a paper weight instead of a watch with annoying sensors xD
(Ps.: I'm running the latest firmware, and check frequently hopping for a update)
I had intermittent sensor readings to start. I first noticed it with the running/rucking app Strava, my HR data was junk. Then the watch would randomly go secure on me and require a PIN input--the intermittent sensors were interfering with reliable on-wrist detection. This got worse and worse over a period of a few months. Finally the sensors failed totally. Calibration would always fail, no HR could be measured, etc. I had to remove the PIN (thus disabling Google Pay) to use the watch.
So you might want to wait for the sensors to totally fail, or you might not. But I don't think it's a software/firmware issue. Now that I've repaired my watch it works 100% reliably.
pagsPues yo tengo el mismo problema con el sensor y creo que voy a desmontar la parte trasera para comprobar la avería.
HKLopes said:
Hey what kind of sensor issues did you got?
I've been seeing intermittent HR and SO2 sensor issues in my ticwatch pro3.
I've read a bunch of posts in the mobvoi forums that talk about similar issues linked to water damage...
The weird thing is that when I restart my watch, usually, the sensors start working again, them they randomly stop working after a few hours or so.
This weird behaviour leads me to believe that this is some software thing (like a weird firmware bug), not water damage...
Anyway, loved the post, and I'm really tempted to replicate... But I'm really afraid to damage my watch and end up having a paper weight instead of a watch with annoying sensors xD
(Ps.: I'm running the latest firmware, and check frequently hopping for a update)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
У меня аналогичная проблема периодически возникает после запуска часов и выбора режима тренировки, GPS определяет, а датчик ЧСС попросту не включается. Лечится перезагрузкой.

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