Database Info

Car Mount - Brodit (coming soon)

As a long term fan of Brodit holders, I'm pleased to see the i9000 active holder now listed as coming soon.
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i have a brodit iphone 3g holder (non active but you can adjust the sides) and i reckon if i used a silicone case i would fit nicely inside it.
might go for this holder anyway, could do with the power
any ideas on RRP?

How much is it expected to cost and why is the pic upside down?

cmit37 said:
How much is it expected to cost and why is the pic upside down?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pic is straight. USB connection for charging is at the top of the phone..

for HTC Touch HD was really good.
Probably I`ll buy for SGS as well

Hope the charger is 1mA

even at 1mA it's not powerful enough to charge the battery when using the GPS
i'm looking for a 2mA car charger

The estimate prices you can check from DSL Developments
- http://www.dsldevelopments.com/brodit/holder/Samsung+Galaxy S i9000-Brodit-Holder.asp
Prices may vary when the products are wider in the shops.

AllGamer said:
even at 1mA it's not powerful enough to charge the battery when using the GPS
i'm looking for a 2mA car charger
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Joking! So its shows 'usb' rather than 'dc'? Had any luck finding any?

http://www.brodit.com/?main=productinformation.jsp&anr=513167
http://www.brodit.com/?main=productinformation.jsp&anr=512167
http://www.brodit.com/?main=productinformation.jsp&anr=511167
513167 is listed as 2A charger

i'll definitely buy one if they are for real 2 amps
hms666 said:
http://www.brodit.com/?main=productinformation.jsp&anr=513167
http://www.brodit.com/?main=productinformation.jsp&anr=512167
http://www.brodit.com/?main=productinformation.jsp&anr=511167
513167 is listed as 2A charger
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Now I do like Brodit, but I may have to get my hacksaw out according to these pics.
Unless Im reading it wrong, there's a big flap of plastic obscuring the camera lens.
I like to record my car journeys you see - for the times I get into an accident with a less than honest person who invents witnesses.

sjdean said:
Now I do like Brodit, but I may have to get my hacksaw out according to these pics.
Unless Im reading it wrong, there's a big flap of plastic obscuring the camera lens.
I like to record my car journeys you see - for the times I get into an accident with a less than honest person who invents witnesses.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
that's a great idea!
i've always used a separate camera for that purpose, because i bike and drive, it's extremely important when you are on a bicycle as most car vs. bicycle goes either unreported, or car always win the debate even though it's the car's driver fault.

Off topic (but discussed in topic) I've just purchased this 2A charger http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2A-car-charge...ting_LaptopAccessories_RL&hash=item45f367d712 cheap and cheerful no holder but provide the correct power for maximum use of the device

Isn't a 2 amp charger way overkill? I have a 0.7 amp samsung charger and that charges my phone just fine while running mobile maps.

i ordered a 2 Amp charger from another source, i already have a generic phone holder that works for all phones and PDA
no, anything less than 1 Amp will not charge your phone, if you keep the screen ON, and using GPS + using Bluetooth
1 Amp will keep your battery from falling down drastically, but it is still not enough to charge the battery meanwhile all the features are ON
2 Amp is only enough to keep all those features running, and charger the battery.
that comes from experience using the HTC Athena, which is just as much of a power hog as the SGS i9000

http://www.clove.co.uk/viewProduct....Category=513E19A1-EA21-475E-A79A-2C796C2E9237 for sell atm for £41 (£48.18 inc VAT) THAT EXPENSIVE!!!!! even though i aint got the phone yet lol

sareen said:
http://www.clove.co.uk/viewProduct....Category=513E19A1-EA21-475E-A79A-2C796C2E9237 for sell atm for £41 (£48.18 inc VAT) THAT EXPENSIVE!!!!! even though i aint got the phone yet lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's also available on DSL, for £37.97 delivered. Have ordered mine

my universal 2A phone charger + universal car holder combined cost less than $20 delivered all from DealExtreme that's less than 14 euros, and they are good quality too, the same stuff you'll find at any of the better known e-stores.

dizzle118 said:
Off topic (but discussed in topic) I've just purchased this 2A charger http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2A-car-charge...ting_LaptopAccessories_RL&hash=item45f367d712 cheap and cheerful no holder but provide the correct power for maximum use of the device
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Brilliant. I came looking for info on this, as my current charger in the car acts like a USB connection... Thanks.
I have the £20 Brodit holder, maybe I should have got the active one though, keeps the cable a bit more out the way.

Headphone Hack

Just spent about 30 mins hacking the supplied headphone cable to take any 3.5mm and it was very, very easy.
The buttons unclick off the control unit with no damage and with a bit of careful prying the board will come out of the housing.
Add a female 3.5mm from the end of a extension lead and you have a lead with full controls and mic with any headphones.
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Hey,
could you please elaborate on this?

If you need elaborating on what he just wrote... maybe you should not do what he did. Hacking stuff needs a certain amount of practical sense.

hmm.. Well, am just new to Android.. I have done a lot of modding with some Sony Ericsson's. Not sure, if you are aware of se-nse forums.
But, yes never tried hardware modding. hence the elaboration required.

Hey
I am interested about that but I don't speak english very well and cannot understand all what you wrote...
Is there anyway you can make a video ?

Just try carefully taking off the three buttons and all will become clear. You can do this without damaging the unit and if you decide against doing the mod just put the buttons back on, no harm done.
There is a small printed circuit board held in with soft glue, a bit of prying will get it out and on the reverse you will be able to see the headphone leads.
Desolder the leads, taking note of right, left and polarity. Prepare your female 3.5mm by first passing the end through the hole in the housing, then stripping just enough cable to allow re-soldering, you may need to double up the shield side to both right and left.
Once this is done you can check correct operation before reassembly which is the reverse of dismantling.
When attaching the buttons remember to point the arrow on the centre play/pause/answer button in the direction of the FF side.
MG

pretty much what i didwith the terrible headphones back in the days with my g1/adp. check for cheap extension leads, the have nice connectors sometimes - looks better then the usual self-soldier screw ones.

Thanks for the advice, now try to make myself such headphones.

Thanks for the advice,

Thanx guna try this
Sent from my HTC Desire S using XDA Premium App

HTC RC E160 / Creative EP 630 Zombie Headphones - sounds good!
Thanks for the inspiration.
As one can get the HTC RC E160 really cheap (EUR 4,50), I ordered two and gave it a try. In contrast to the OP, I did not manage to make proper connections to the small printed circuit - glue all over, and everything much too tiny for my soldering skills...
I found it much easier to just swap the speaker capsules with an old EP 630 (which had a broken cable, my family's standard earphone). Both the HTC's and the Creative's capsules open really easy, and you already have stripped, tinned wires and nice (not so tiny) soldering pads.
Just be careful when pulling out the cables and don't forget to re-add the knots before soldering.
Heinz

How about making a video ?
Yes, Please make a video for this hack, I hope then our doubt will be clear

Sorry, I don't have the parts to repeat all steps in a video.
But I opened it again for you and took another picture. Please note the black cable in an otherwise white body my doubtful readers...
These are the exact steps:
On the EP 630 side:
Pry the metal ring loose carfully using a knife and remove it.
Now you can pull out the sound driver easily.
Unsolder, cut and remove the cables.
On the HTC side:
Deform the earplug gently until the metal capsule pops out (I used a 200g hammer - we are only interested in the cables!)
Pull out the cable some centimeters using a tweezer (don't just pull on the metal capsule or the solder joints will break).
Unsolder the cables.
Unknot the cables and pull them out.
Guide them trough the tube of the EP 630 body.
Knot them again.
Solder them to the pads on the EP 630 driver. (Be sure not to cross polarity on your left and right ear which will probably sound bad. There seems to by a red color code near the "plus" pad. Connect the solid green or solid red wire here. The other one - solid nothing or striped green - seems to be ground.
Re-assemble the plugs (the metal ring holds everything in place).
Regards,
Heinz

Thx Heinz!

I like this and might have to give it ago myself....... will report back if successful

this post inspired me...gonna to do this

Neat trick, Very useful considering the lack of choice of 3 button Android compatible headphones. Do you know if this reduces the quality of sound in mid range headphones?

Thanks
From Russia with love by my HTC Desire S

bongo1 said:
Neat trick, Very useful considering the lack of choice of 3 button Android compatible headphones. Do you know if this reduces the quality of sound in mid range headphones?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
depends how you do it if properly, then there will be no quality reduction, regardless of the range of headphones. there's really little you can do wrong.

Nicely done

Perfect Run/Bike Companion - My Accessories Setup

I chose the Z1 Compact as I like to run/bike with my phone; not so that I can use things like Strava/RunKeeper/Endomondo etc but becuase I
a. listen to music
b. take calls
c. take photos
d. like my loved ones to track me in case of emergency
e. make calls in case of emergency
etc
So the high spec, waterproofness and size really appealled to me
And I have to say.. it is proving a delight.
I have now finalised my run/bike setup and thought you guys might be interested in the set up.
Photos attached
Run:
Armband: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sony-Xperia-Z1-Compact-Shocksock/dp/B00HUGVTIE
I have tried various armband cases over the decades (!!) but this one I have for the Z1 Compact is the best to date (and one of the cheapest)
It has a nice amount of stretch, a little key pocket and nice velcro closure that doesn't rub.
I would say though that it is not a tight fit in the armband case (it is NOT custom made for the phone).. but that is fine with me as I can easily slip in and out, it works with my normal case I have for the phone, and is still secure and not had issues on long runs (+20k)
If you want the smallest possible case for the phone then look elsewhere
The screen is responsive enough through the clear screen, but as with all the cases, the power button of the phone is in a bit of an awkward position
Bike:
Handlebar case: http://topeak.com/products/bags/smartphone_drybag_5in_bk2
Why bother with a waterproof case?
Well.. I suppose I didn't really need to, but I wanted something for the handlebars that would protect it in case of a fall a bit more, but wouldn't be too bulky. (also.. I could be on the bike in the rain for upwards of 6hrs.. not sure if the IP rating could handle that!)
The fit is actually perfect: I can just squeese in with the my normal case (Krussel FrostCover) still on. Without the case it is still a nice and snugg fit with no flapping around.
Screen responsive enough through the clear plastic front
The power button is okayish to press on the go
The downside I see with this is that the inbuilt clip on the back means that on bumps it can 'slap' a bit, so I might look at fixing that somehow (the case is good enough that I would want to do that rather than look for another solution)
also, if you wanna take phonts you need to take out of the waterproof case.
Run/Bike:
Headphones: http://www.jaybirdsport.com/bluebuds-x-bluetooth-headphones/
I understand people who say you should not use headphones while running/biking outdoors, but I do like to do it
These bluetooth headphones are the best out there.
Expensive but worth it: can use in the rain, no long cord, answer calls etc.
They have already proven the best sports headphones I have ever bought
The only downside I would say is that the stock earbuds can fall out, so I use comply foam buds (http://www.complyfoam.com/products/S-500/)
That makes the fit perfect and secure (can run for 2hrs without needing to adjust once)
No dropouts.
Hope this is helpful.
I really am in a near perfect place now with my setup.
I first started looking for the ideal set up to run/bike with, in 2002 (using the first phone that I started to run with).. I have finally found it (until the wearable tech means I use something other than a phone in a few years)
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Milkywaye said:
I chose the Z1 Compact as I like to run/bike with my phone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you very much for your feedback :good:. Quite similar need for me: day long mountain bike and hike sessions.
I'm curious about any setup allowing charging the phone with a dynamo, but still being waterproof, or anything allowing to extend the battery life for a complete day of use as GPS track recorder and map. I have in mind a setup based on something similar to the Shimano Dynamo Generator Hubs.
Regarding the power button, I hope Tap2Wake & Wake 2 Touch, or any other similar feature, will be soon available for the Z1 Compact.

Scalpos said:
Thank you very much for your feedback :good:. Quite similar need for me: day long mountain bike and hike sessions.
I'm curious about any setup allowing charging the phone with a dynamo, but still being waterproof, or anything allowing to extend the battery life for a complete day of use as GPS track recorder and map. I have in mind a setup based on something similar to the Shimano Dynamo Generator Hubs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah.. the phone batteries are not quite up to the extended rides or ultras.
tbh that is why I use a Garmin Edge for my long rides (i don't need to go longer than that battery allows) and not use my phone for tracking.
in the past I have used different things for keeping the juice of my phone going (additional batteries, external batter packs etc).. but I think this is one of the weaknesses of the phone for that application
[1] the magnets on the magnetic charging socket tend to be weak so on a bike you will probably need to keep on reconnecting or use some sort of tape to tape the socket in place
[2] the normal usb charging socket is in an awkward position.. so the cable would jut out to the side.. but worse.. you lose the waterproofness and more worryingly, the flap is in a dangerously vulnerable position to breakage
[3] no removable battery
If i needed to charge on the go (on the bike) then I would defintely look at utilising the magnetic socket and tape the plug n place.
that would then leave the issue of keeping the phone out of the elements (especially on extended downpours) and for that you would need a different mount to the topeak one (not broad enough to have the charger in the bag as well)
there is also the other issue of amps.. you need to make sure that the phone is being given enough amps to actually charge. not sure a dynamo would do that,.. but those battery packs would if you choose the right one
---
When you do get something sorted.. then post piccies! very interested to see what you come up with

Nice post!
I used the same Topeak case with my late SGS3, which was a very tight fit...
I have used it in different conditions over half a year and found one big nuissance with it. That clear plastic gets foggy from the inside and you have to clean that up every now and then (sealed rolled and everything). And I'm not a neat freak... also I don't have sticks for fingers, so cleaning all of it is just not pleasant...
As for the charging en route... you could still hook the dynamo output by soldering the wires (actually with some connector) to a solar battery - as complimentary powersource to the solar cell. Then charge from that, which gives a more stable output. Worst case scenario is that going downhill may fry a solar battery instead of the phone...

Over heating/DVR issues?

Anyone had any over heating or DVR issues?.
Recently after nasty traffic trip of 2 hours (longest trip so far with this unit) I noticed that the OBDII torque app wouldn’t work (not unheard of) but then the sound attenuation wasn’t snapping off after nav directions, so I tried the volume knob and guess what no response, buttons not working and within seconds the whole unit packed up totally.
Did a reset and it was still glitchy.
Then I realised it was red hot, pulled the trim away and touched under the unit and it was burning hot.
Since then it’s crashed a few times and Waze (normally rock solid) has acted up with issues around gps signal being slower than my driving and just hanging and crashing.
Ps is the uk and it’s wet and cold, also tons of space inside the dash as it’s installed in a Van.
One thing at the time was that I have the usb in the glove box and at the time I was using it to keep my phone charged. Not sure if that was a factor?.
Since the. I’ve stopped charging the phone off that as I now have the DVR and DAB(not used the dab yet). But I’ve found the dvr cottage is jerky and that when running the DVR it causes the Rev cam footage to jump a few times too (sketchy when reversing in tight areas in the van).
So any one experienced over heating?, could one overheating event have damaged the cpu?, and could the DVR issue be related this?. Or does the DVR take a lot of processing power?.
Not an expert but when Inlookednin settings the rams never been used beyond 50% since the DVR was hooked up and the DVR is digital and the Rev cam is analog so why would it affect it?, but it really does.
Had a nightmare with separate dash cams (3 off amazon in a row had faults) so was hoping the dvr would be the answer.
Loath to lose it just today coming back from the woods with the family a Z4 nearly Head on’d us on a narrow lane as he swerved off the main road!!.
I’ve already agreed to return it to audio tech direct after Xmas as the green phone buttons dead but should I complain about the overheating and demand a replacement?. It’s only 2 months old

Give them a link to your post and google similar problems to find others with the same heat issue.
I installed 2 fans in my unit (not the same as yours) one directly on the cpu heatsync sucking the hot air off and another bigger pc fan that sucks the hot air out of the whole unit which is overkill but whatever lol

Hi, luckily they are replacing this one. Cooling wise I was thinking about sticking fans on the vent holes to suck hot air out and wire into the ignition so they come in with the radio, can attach on top externally and not void warranty. Won’t be able to add a heat sink though without opening up. Though I peeked into the Holes and there seem to be a corregated aluminium plate on top of the cpu, more ribbed than finned. Could that be a factory heat sink?
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I'm having exactly the same issue as you....
I have a PX5 Xtrons (GS) head unit and whenever i run Waze/Google Maps or any navigation app, after 30+ minutes , i get a "GPS lost, searching for GPS" message and the tracking starts to lag behind. Changing tracks/radio stations or volume at that time has a big delay. Today i got a "Temperature too hot" message and system shuts down.
How do i go about adding a fan/heat-sink onto these things? are there any tutorials etc?

Don’t know, there’s holes in top so I’m planning on a small 12v fan on top to suck the hot air out. Going to take a feed off the 12v power socket. Don’t want to open and stick heat sinks on as it’s under warranty but the fans can double tape externally.

Cid6.7 said:
Give them a link to your post and google similar problems to find others with the same heat issue.
I installed 2 fans in my unit (not the same as yours) one directly on the cpu heatsync sucking the hot air off and another bigger pc fan that sucks the hot air out of the whole unit which is overkill but whatever lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can I ask how you powered your fans? I added a few heat-sinks to my system and although now it runs much smoother, temperatures do go up to 110-115 degrees Celsius. So now instead of becoming slow after 30 minutes, it now takes over an hour. I noticed a fan shaped hole in the back of my system which i am thinking about attaching a small fan on to to suck the warm air out.

alpha247 said:
Can I ask how you powered your fans? I added a few heat-sinks to my system and although now it runs much smoother, temperatures do go up to 110-115 degrees Celsius. So now instead of becoming slow after 30 minutes, it now takes over an hour. I noticed a fan shaped hole in the back of my system which i am thinking about attaching a small fan on to to suck the warm air out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wired them to aux power in line and ground.
I plan on in the future finding a heat sensor so when the unit reaches a certain temp they'll turn on and off automatically

So my cheap fans arrived from China and I’ve temporarily taped them over the vent holes on the top, after some messing around I’ve opted to push cool air in so have placed them to blow into the top holes, can feel air coming out of the opposite top vent holes, hoping this will help till I work out how to duct the permanent cool duct my van has into the unit. Terrible radio interference when the fans are on now though and ideas how to avoid that?

It’s ok seems to have settled. Blue tooth is crapping out now so may just return.

General Google Pixel 7 Pro Disassembly Teardown Video

There is already a teardown video about the Google Pixel 7 Pro on YouTube that answers a couple of questions.
Google might take it down, since the phone hasn't been released yet, so you might want to be quick about watching it.
I'll add a couple screenshots with the visible part numbers as I watch the video.
Takeaway
- Fingerprint reader has another part number, should mean that it's either a new hardware revision (new version) or a different product line entirely
- Google still uses plastic clips - additional to adhesive - to fix the front display to the chassis. That is great for durability and later repair, since even with a bad adhesive placement, your phone will hold.
- USB-C connector is still soldered to the motherboard (terrible for repair)
- both sound speakers are massive, should deliver good sound quality
- Back glass is firmly glued to the frame, very difficult to remove; bad for repair, good for durability.
- Battery shrunk from 5007 to 5000 mAh
- Cooling still only done via copper/graphite sheets, no vapour chamber or other sophisticated cooling constructions
- Metal brackets and joists everywhere; should be a very durable phone
- Battery pull tabs still useless (as in every other phone), replacing the battery still requires alcohol or heat (don't to the latter, lithium ion batteries don't like heat)
Spoiler: Screenshots
Phone chassis after display removal
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Fingerprint reader/scanner
Battery
5G Antenna (1, top right corner)
Camera Assembly
Topside earspeaker assembly is massive, should deliver decent sound
Front facing cam
Motherboard Upside
RAM and processor
Motherboard Underside
Dual antennas in both upper corners for potentially better connectivity
Antenna Board 2 part numbers

Looks like they're using more graphite to cover the board to help dissipate heat. Hopefully that will help a bit with the heat problems people often complain about on the Pixel 6 series.

Lughnasadh said:
Looks like they're using graphite instead of the copper used in the Pixel 6 to cover the board to help dissipate heat. Hopefully that will help a bit with the heat problems people often complain about on the Pixel 6 series.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hopefully, but it's high time that they went for a small vapour chamber, or a similar high quality cooling construction. Heat was an obvious problem for the P6, and looking at the raw data about the Tensor 2 (cores, nodes) that might become less of a problem, but it will surely not just go away. Especially when a company is trying to get away with a relatively old/inefficient node/processor, proper heat dissipation should be a top priority. A tiny piece of graphite might help with a couple %, but not more.

Any mention of a internal or external modem?

Good speaker and vibration but type c on motherboard...
rester555 said:
Any mention of a internal or external modem?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pixel 7 and 7 pro use Samsung Exynos Modem 5300

Linuxkek said:
Good speaker and vibration but type c on motherboard...
Pixel 7 and 7 pro use Samsung Exynos Modem 5300
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
More specifically is it the 5300g?

rester555 said:
More specifically is it the 5300g?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I found a press release from Samsung from yesterday. They "finally" announced the 5300 modem, but there was no mention of any revision (would have been unusual anyway, that's something internal that you don't communicate via press release) or any information on the capability of that modem.
Samsung Electronics Envisions Hyper-Growth in Memory and Logic Semiconductors Through Intensified Industry Collaborations at Samsung Tech Day 2022
A new wave of memory solutions and limitless partnership opportunities to bring greater capabilities to data center, server, mobile, gaming and automotive markets The System LSI Business emphasizes its role as a ‘total solution’ fabless that can optimize solutions for customers through...
news.samsung.com

Brilliant, Thanks for sharing the video Might come in handy if and when I break something

Biggest disappointment for me is that the charging port isn't modular.

Another teardown video...