Hi. I grabbed my small 1000mah powerbank, and a Li-Po battery from lenovo a7-30h (flat battery), that is 3.8V and 3550mah
What i've done:
1. desoldered 1000mah cell (3.7V 18650 cell)
2. removed protection and regulator board from lenovo battery (so that i had only + and - terminals.
3. soldered powerbank circuit to battery terminals
Now i'm charging the battery , i tested it. it charges phone and powerbank is also charging. I have a question tho. Is it safe to use it? I'm like,.... i soldered wires solidly, insulated it correctly, so that it wont ever short circuit on its own.
And is it ok, that i replaced 18650 3.7V cell with flat battery 3.8V min and 4.35 max? Will the battery charge fully?
aciupapa said:
Hi. I grabbed my small 1000mah powerbank, and a Li-Po battery from lenovo a7-30h (flat battery), that is 3.8V and 3550mah
What i've done:
1. desoldered 1000mah cell (3.7V 18650 cell)
2. removed protection and regulator board from lenovo battery (so that i had only + and - terminals.
3. soldered powerbank circuit to battery terminals
Now i'm charging the battery , i tested it. it charges phone and powerbank is also charging. I have a question tho. Is it safe to use it? I'm like,.... i soldered wires solidly, insulated it correctly, so that it wont ever short circuit on its own.
And is it ok, that i replaced 18650 3.7V cell with flat battery 3.8V min and 4.35 max? Will the battery charge fully?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Upload pictures please
aciupapa said:
Hi. I grabbed my small 1000mah powerbank, and a Li-Po battery from lenovo a7-30h (flat battery), that is 3.8V and 3550mah
What i've done:
1. desoldered 1000mah cell (3.7V 18650 cell)
2. removed protection and regulator board from lenovo battery (so that i had only + and - terminals.
3. soldered powerbank circuit to battery terminals
Now i'm charging the battery , i tested it. it charges phone and powerbank is also charging. I have a question tho. Is it safe to use it? I'm like,.... i soldered wires solidly, insulated it correctly, so that it wont ever short circuit on its own.
And is it ok, that i replaced 18650 3.7V cell with flat battery 3.8V min and 4.35 max? Will the battery charge fully?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could run 10s 18650 in parallel, and get 200000mah, it wouldn't matter. Your protection lies in the original powerbank circuitry, and no matter how many cells you use, and how good they are, and how nice you solder them, it will never make it better than it was before.
Question, how many A can it output ?
daedric said:
You could run 10s 18650 in parallel, and get 200000mah, it wouldn't matter. Your protection lies in the original powerbank circuitry, and no matter how many cells you use, and how good they are, and how nice you solder them, it will never make it better than it was before.
Question, how many A can it output ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It outputs 1A :/ I guess i'll just pick up one of Ankers Slim powerbanks (10000mah) . It will be far less bulky and safer
Related
I'm interested in buying an external battery charger, or a cradle charger, so I can have two batteries going—one always charging outside of the phone—and thus never having to plug my phone in to charge. After a brief eBay search, all of the cheapest ones appear to be the same: you can find the model I'm referring to here.
My concern, however, is with the specifications listed, which read:
Input: AC 100-240V~50/60Hz 0.15A
Output: DC 4.2V~350mA~±50mA
USB: 5.2Vd.c.800mA
The output appears to be 300-400mA, which is slightly lower than a stock charger. As far as I know, this tells me how fast it will charge the battery. Since it will be plugged into the battery charger when I swap batteries (for the full discharge of the other battery), I don't care if it charges slower. However, the voltage appears to be quite low at 4.2V—and I'm entirely unsure how this will affect things. Will it still charge? Can it do damage to the battery? Should I not purchase this unit? What exactly does a lower/higher voltage mean?
Anyone?
Does it work? Is it safe? Does the lower voltage matter?
I've been using this same battery charger for over a year now. It charges my stock and extended battery (3500mAh) without any problem. Yes it does take longer compared to the normal charger to charge your battery because of the low mA but I don't think it has had any affect on my batteries. So the only downside is it takes comparatively longer to charge.
mo_danish said:
I've been using this same battery charger for over a year now. It charges my stock and extended battery (3500mAh) without any problem. Yes it does take longer compared to the normal charger to charge your battery because of the low mA but I don't think it has had any affect on my batteries. So the only downside is it takes comparatively longer to charge.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great! That's what I wanted to know. Thanks!
I have this charger as well. I can confirm that I have have not had any problems with the charger sense I got it. I ordered mine from Amazon here:
http://www.amazon.com/2600mAh-Batte...3352199&sr=8-4&keywords=Galaxy+note+batteries
hello.
is it correct that the anker extended battery for the s4, should be showing a capcity of 2600mah in battery monitor pro?
is it because it is 2 x 2600 batteries joined together?
bit confused.
To my knowledge battery Mon pro won't be able to automatically determine accurate capacity of the battery when you just plug it in. It has to calculate it through extended use by monitoring discharge rate, and even that is not accurate.
anker 5200
same as me,
i try using battery doctor or du battry saver but it's only show 2600 mah in system.
i wonder how to make it show 5200mah
just watch the voltage. You will know what it's got left by watching the voltage drop after a few days. The cheap apps are telling you 2600 because that's what the phone comes with. It's written in
Use Android Tuner or battery calibration on appstore, they give actual voltage
Any Doubble Power Battery ???
Six hours continuous use
Confirming my Anker 5200mAh Extended Battery provides six hours continuous use with my Galaxy S4.
Very happy with my purchase, and recommend the Hyperion HoneyComb TPU Extended Battery case for use with this extended battery.
how much do you know about external chargers
samuelson said:
hello.
is it correct that the anker extended battery for the s4, should be showing a capcity of 2600mah in battery monitor pro?
is it because it is 2 x 2600 batteries joined together?
bit confused.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
many external chargers especially ordinary chargers are oversized in capacity. though they may be very cheaper, they are usually shoddy and deceptive. i recommend you to read this article.
Don’t buy external battery before you read this!
As we have more and more gadgets, we are expecting our gadgets can always work when we need them. Our gadgets can do almost everything — until they run out of fuel. Times when you need to make that important call, send out an urgent e-mail, or need to use the apps on your device – but alas there is no battery…we’ve all been there and know first-hand the stress of being offline when you need to get things done!
External battery is indispensable for our smart life, but how much do you know about the external battery? Does your external battery really charge your gadget or make the damages to your battery of gadgets?
1) What’s external battery?
External battery serves as an ‘extra battery’ or external charger for your phone or other electronic devices.
2) Where is external battery made from?
Majority of the external batteries in the market are actually made in China. And the battery cells or PCB modules are from different countries.
3) How do I charge the external battery?
You can charge your external battery via the charger that came with your phone, computer usb port or using other external battery
4) How long do I need to charge the external battery?
It depends on the REAL CAPACITY of the external battery. The larger REAL CAPACITY, the longer charging time may required. Different charging methods may result in different charging time as well. Charging with the original charger will be faster than charging with computer usb port.
5) Why sometime I need longer time to charge the same external battery?
Even though using the same charging method, the charging time may be differ due to environment, temperature, power flow and etc.
6) What is mAh?
mAh mean milli Ampere Hour, the capacity of the external battery is measured with mAh
7) Is a 12000mAh REAL CAPACITY external battery, able to charge a 1500mAh capacity phone for 8 times full?
This is a common mistake made by most of people. For rough calculation of the total charge time, kindly use this formula
REAL CAPACITY * conversion rate * phone battery health / phone capacity = total charge times
EXAMPLE: 12000 x 0.8 x 0.8 / 1500 = 5.12 charge times (0.5-1 times plus minus)
8) What’s conversion rate?
Conversation rate is the remaining percentage of the battery after the battery loses in heat or PCB operation.
9) What’s phone battery health?
In simple, it means how ‘healthy’ your phone battery is. Phone battery storage capacity will be lower and lower. That’s also the reason why our phone can last longer when it’s newly bought than after 3-6 months of use. Different mobile phone models also will affect the calculation as some phones drain battery faster than others.
10) What’s PCB?
PCB means Printed Circuit Board, which controls all the operation flow inside the external battery. A good quality PCB will allow the external battery to charge more and have better durability
11) What’s the difference between 18650 and Li-Polymer in the external battery?
- 18650 size and dimension are fixed. Li-Polymer size and dimension are flexible.
- 18650 produces more heat. Li-Polymer is much safer
- 18650 is cheaper. Li-Polymer is more expensive
- 18650 has a higher self discharge rate. Li-Polymer has a very low self discharge rate
- 18650 battery capacity drops faster. Li-Polymer battery capacity is more durable
12) What’s the common REAL CAPACITY in 18650 external battery in the market?
- External battery using 1pcs 18650 is 1200mAh – 2600mAh
- External battery using 2pcs 18650 is 2500mAh – 4400mAh
- External battery using 3pcs 18650 is 3750mAh – 6600mAh
- External battery using 4pcs 18650 is 5200mAh – 8800mAh
- External battery using 5pcs 18650 is 6500mAh –11000mAh
- External battery using 6pcs 18650 is 7800mAh –13200mAh
- External battery using 7pcs 18650 (no info)
- External battery using 8pcs 18650 is 10400mAh –14400mAh
1 3) Is there any external battery with a capacity higher than 2200mAh per 18650?
Yes. There are, but it’s not common due to the expensive pricing.
14) What’s the difference between branded external battery and generic external battery?
Branded external battery is mostly sold in REAL CAPACITY. Generic external battery is mostly sold in MARKING CAPACITY. That’s the reason why you will never see any branded external battery (standard size) with a capacity as high as 30000mAh – 50000mAh. That’s also the reason why a good 12000-13000mAh external battery is able to charge more or almost the same as the market level of 30000-50000mAh. Most of the external batteries sold on amazon.com with low price are MARKING CAPACITY but not REAL CAPACITY. Those with higher price and long warranty(more than one year, some brands offer 18 months of warranty, like Sony, KINKOO, Xstorm) are REAL CAPACITY and reliable.
15) Is it true branded external battery won’t explode and generic external battery will explode?
Anything to do with battery will have a chance to explode. No matter it’s branded external battery or generic external battery. But chances for both branded and generic external battery to explode are very low, except for those cheap and poor-quality 18650 batteries. And the Li-Polymer is safer than 18650 battery, it’s easy to fit the high-temperature environment.
,
i am attempting to disassemble my p6800 if time permits and mod ito to accomodate another battery thingking of buying 2 new
3.7V, 5,100 mAh Li-Ion battery (SP397281A)
then fully charging them then connecting them both as the original battery is a 1s2p model and the connector has 5 wires does anyone with expertise in batteries help me to wire them up ?? thnx in advance )
geogetski666 said:
i am attempting to disassemble my p6800 if time permits and mod ito to accomodate another battery thingking of buying 2 new
3.7V, 5,100 mAh Li-Ion battery (SP397281A)
then fully charging them then connecting them both as the original battery is a 1s2p model and the connector has 5 wires does anyone with expertise in batteries help me to wire them up ?? thnx in advance )
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm no expert with Li-Ion batteries, but I do know you can connect two batteries in parallel to combine their capacity (Two 5100 mAh = 10,200 mAh). If you connect them in serial you will have the same capacity but double the voltage (Two 3.7v = 7.4v). When you combine them in parallel, I think you would need some kind of balancing circuit between the batteries and the device. That kind of thing is popular in the Remote Control world - as in remote control cars and planes and such. You might try asking about it in an RC forum.
However, when I look at the sticker on an OEM battery (on ebay) it is marked 1S2P. Which means the battery is already 2 cells in parallel (each 2,550 mAh). That is good news, since 1S battery combinations do not need balancing circuitry. You'd essentially be making a 1S4P. That means you need to connect all of the batteries + terminals to one bus and all the - terminals to a separate bus. You would need to do that before the Li-Ion charge-protection circuitry. So you'd have to peel apart the battery cover and see how they're wired up underneath. You _MIGHT_ be able to wire them together at the 5-wire connector, but that would be iffy, and I wouldn't risk damaging such expensive batteries and/or tablet.
Tom2112 said:
I'm no expert with Li-Ion batteries, but I do know you can connect two batteries in parallel to combine their capacity (Two 5100 mAh = 10,200 mAh). If you connect them in serial you will have the same capacity but double the voltage (Two 3.7v = 7.4v). When you combine them in parallel, I think you would need some kind of balancing circuit between the batteries and the device. That kind of thing is popular in the Remote Control world - as in remote control cars and planes and such. You might try asking about it in an RC forum.
However, when I look at the sticker on an OEM battery (on ebay) it is marked 1S2P. Which means the battery is already 2 cells in parallel (each 2,550 mAh). That is good news, since 1S battery combinations do not need balancing circuitry. You'd essentially be making a 1S4P. That means you need to connect all of the batteries + terminals to one bus and all the - terminals to a separate bus. You would need to do that before the Li-Ion charge-protection circuitry. So you'd have to peel apart the battery cover and see how they're wired up underneath. You _MIGHT_ be able to wire them together at the 5-wire connector, but that would be iffy, and I wouldn't risk damaging such expensive batteries and/or tablet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thnx for the reply still studying how to wire them )
geogetski666 said:
thnx for the reply still studying how to wire them )
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So, how did it go? Did you make it work?
Any improvement?
I have a Chinese tablet. planning to add 'mobile' battery in parallel . But i am worried about recharging them. Does the inbuilt circuit controls the recharging the battery?
I usually let it charge over night. However I found today it is charged very fast: less than 2hours from 30% to 100%. I used galaxy note 2 usb charger. Do you have the same experience of charging or my battery has problems?
yes i same with you
When your battery was at 30%, it means the charger had to charge 1610mA (30% of 2300mA is 690mA). The Galaxy Note 2 charger has an output amperage of 2000mA. So you can imagine it won't take very long.
[update] Hm I misread note for tab. I have a tab 2 with a 2A charger. Not sure what the note 2 charger can output, but I'm guessing it will be above average.
Petrovski80 said:
When your battery was at 30%, it means the charger had to charge 1610mA (30% of 2300mA is 690mA). The Galaxy Note 2 charger has an output amperage of 2000mA. So you can imagine it won't take very long.
[update] Hm I misread note for tab. I have a tab 2 with a 2A charger. Not sure what the note 2 charger can output, but I'm guessing it will be above average.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. I will check the output of note 2 usb charger and do the math.
Stock Nexus 5 charger also charges it from 0 to 100% in less than 2 hours.
Dont forget that the devices kernel determines how much mA is drawn from a charger and not how much may a charger is rated for
-----------------------
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I do NOT reply to support queries over PM. Please keep support queries to the Q&A section, so that others may benefit
Not all milliamps are the same
It seems to be a common misconception that the number of milliamp-hours of your battery and the milliamp rating of your charger have a fixed relationship.They don't. It does not automatically follow that a 2000mAh battery will take 2 hours to charge from a 1000mA charger, or that the charge current will be 1000mA. Charge current can easily - and safely - be higher than the mA rating of the charger. Or lower.
The N5 battery is rated at 3.8V 2300mAh (typical) and, crucially, 8.74 watt hours. A 5V 1000mA charger can supply a maximum of 5 watts (5 volts x 1 amp). Voltage converters within the N5 change this 5 watts of power from 5V to 3.8V to suit the battery - and this could be at about 1250mA (assuming a not-unreasonable 95% conversion efficiency).
The battery voltage varies with the state of charge, reaching about 4.2V when fully charged. Even then, the charge current could be as high as 1130mA without drawing more than 1000mA from the 5V charger.
An earlier poster pointed out that charging is under control of the CPU (I suspect instead a dedicated charging circuit but that's irrelevant) and it is very likely that a) the charging current varies significantly during the charging cycle and b) it is unlikely that the charging circuit demands precisely the maximum that the charger can supply. But it is quite likely that the actual current being put into the battery is numerically higher than that being drawn from the source. It's the power in watts that counts, not the number of milliamps.
Batteries are not perfect, meaning you don't get out all you put in. If the battery was completely flat you would have to put in more than 8.74wh in to bring it up to full charge (although a totally flat Li-ion battery is dead beyond redemption; the battery life shown on the screen is the useable life, not ultimate power capacity).
Sometimes the charger rating, battery capacity and charge time seem to line up, but that's more due to a happy accident than anything else. A 40,000mA charger won't juice your phone from flat in four minutes!
Batteries, and charging, are complex...
G1MFG said:
It seems to be a common misconception that the number of milliamp-hours of your battery and the milliamp rating of your charger have a fixed relationship.They don't. It does not automatically follow that a 2000mAh battery will take 2 hours to charge from a 1000mA charger, or that the charge current will be 1000mA. Charge current can easily - and safely - be higher than the mA rating of the charger. Or lower.
The N5 battery is rated at 3.8V 2300mAh (typical) and, crucially, 8.74 watt hours. A 5V 1000mA charger can supply a maximum of 5 watts (5 volts x 1 amp). Voltage converters within the N5 change this 5 watts of power from 5V to 3.8V to suit the battery - and this could be at about 1250mA (assuming a not-unreasonable 95% conversion efficiency).
The battery voltage varies with the state of charge, reaching about 4.2V when fully charged. Even then, the charge current could be as high as 1130mA without drawing more than 1000mA from the 5V charger.
An earlier poster pointed out that charging is under control of the CPU (I suspect instead a dedicated charging circuit but that's irrelevant) and it is very likely that a) the charging current varies significantly during the charging cycle and b) it is unlikely that the charging circuit demands precisely the maximum that the charger can supply. But it is quite likely that the actual current being put into the battery is numerically higher than that being drawn from the source. It's the power in watts that counts, not the number of milliamps.
Batteries are not perfect, meaning you don't get out all you put in. If the battery was completely flat you would have to put in more than 8.74wh in to bring it up to full charge (although a totally flat Li-ion battery is dead beyond redemption; the battery life shown on the screen is the useable life, not ultimate power capacity).
Sometimes the charger rating, battery capacity and charge time seem to line up, but that's more due to a happy accident than anything else. A 40,000mA charger won't juice your phone from flat in four minutes!
Batteries, and charging, are complex...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This. Well said.
Your suspicions are correct, it does have a dedicated charging circuit. This chip is responsible for charging. Input current appears to be capped at 1200mA. Measured with my DMM last night and never saw the phone draw more than 960mA when charging with the screen off. It stayed like that until the battery was around 95% charged, then gradually tapered off from there as the battery reached 100%.
G1MFG said:
It seems to be a common misconception that the number of milliamp-hours of your battery and the milliamp rating of your charger have a fixed relationship.They don't. It does not automatically follow that a 2000mAh battery will take 2 hours to charge from a 1000mA charger, or that the charge current will be 1000mA. Charge current can easily - and safely - be higher than the mA rating of the charger. Or lower.
The N5 battery is rated at 3.8V 2300mAh (typical) and, crucially, 8.74 watt hours. A 5V 1000mA charger can supply a maximum of 5 watts (5 volts x 1 amp). Voltage converters within the N5 change this 5 watts of power from 5V to 3.8V to suit the battery - and this could be at about 1250mA (assuming a not-unreasonable 95% conversion efficiency).
The battery voltage varies with the state of charge, reaching about 4.2V when fully charged. Even then, the charge current could be as high as 1130mA without drawing more than 1000mA from the 5V charger.
An earlier poster pointed out that charging is under control of the CPU (I suspect instead a dedicated charging circuit but that's irrelevant) and it is very likely that a) the charging current varies significantly during the charging cycle and b) it is unlikely that the charging circuit demands precisely the maximum that the charger can supply. But it is quite likely that the actual current being put into the battery is numerically higher than that being drawn from the source. It's the power in watts that counts, not the number of milliamps.
Batteries are not perfect, meaning you don't get out all you put in. If the battery was completely flat you would have to put in more than 8.74wh in to bring it up to full charge (although a totally flat Li-ion battery is dead beyond redemption; the battery life shown on the screen is the useable life, not ultimate power capacity).
Sometimes the charger rating, battery capacity and charge time seem to line up, but that's more due to a happy accident than anything else. A 40,000mA charger won't juice your phone from flat in four minutes!
Batteries, and charging, are complex...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks a lot. It did look complicated. As long as the fast charging is normal, I don't worry too much.
Can anyone recommend an app that shows real time current draw? It would also be cool if the app showed how much power the phone is using in real time.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
G1MFG said:
It seems to be a common misconception that the number of milliamp-hours of your battery and the milliamp rating of your charger have a fixed relationship.They don't. It does not automatically follow that a 2000mAh battery will take 2 hours to charge from a 1000mA charger, or that the charge current will be 1000mA. Charge current can easily - and safely - be higher than the mA rating of the charger. Or lower.
The N5 battery is rated at 3.8V 2300mAh (typical) and, crucially, 8.74 watt hours. A 5V 1000mA charger can supply a maximum of 5 watts (5 volts x 1 amp). Voltage converters within the N5 change this 5 watts of power from 5V to 3.8V to suit the battery - and this could be at about 1250mA (assuming a not-unreasonable 95% conversion efficiency).
The battery voltage varies with the state of charge, reaching about 4.2V when fully charged. Even then, the charge current could be as high as 1130mA without drawing more than 1000mA from the 5V charger.
An earlier poster pointed out that charging is under control of the CPU (I suspect instead a dedicated charging circuit but that's irrelevant) and it is very likely that a) the charging current varies significantly during the charging cycle and b) it is unlikely that the charging circuit demands precisely the maximum that the charger can supply. But it is quite likely that the actual current being put into the battery is numerically higher than that being drawn from the source. It's the power in watts that counts, not the number of milliamps.
Batteries are not perfect, meaning you don't get out all you put in. If the battery was completely flat you would have to put in more than 8.74wh in to bring it up to full charge (although a totally flat Li-ion battery is dead beyond redemption; the battery life shown on the screen is the useable life, not ultimate power capacity).
Sometimes the charger rating, battery capacity and charge time seem to line up, but that's more due to a happy accident than anything else. A 40,000mA charger won't juice your phone from flat in four minutes!
Batteries, and charging, are complex...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
True. I never said there was a fixed relationship though. They do have a loose relationship. Charging with a 500mA charger will take longer than charging with a 2000mA one, since about every modern phone accepts a charging limit higher than 500mA.
Another aspect not addressed in my reply is that the charge process isn't linear. But without going into too much electronics, I just wanted to explain to the OP he shouldn't have to worry if he notices differences in charging times when using chargers of different amperage output.
Today's batteries are much improved
wolfca said:
Thanks a lot. It did look complicated. As long as the fast charging is normal, I don't worry too much.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's the ticket. When used with the correct charger, a modern phone battery takes a couple of hours to charge fully, a bit longer with a lower-rated charger. Or you can top up a bit if you have a few minutes spare. It's much better than the early mobiles with Ni-Cd batteries that took overnight to charge. And required weightlifting training before you could even pick them up!
I'd like to know if there is a way to build an electric circuit to allow you to power up and operate a Nexus 5 without a battery attached.
I'd like to use the Nexus 5 as a "fixed" device, always on, always connected to the mains. Leaving the battery inside will cause it to age and eventually burst.
I'm guessing I could either try to feed the phone 3.8V (as the battery is rated), but I can't send the battery temperature values on its connector, or destroy the battery, remove the battery elements and leave the electronics in place and feed it current from there.
Before I break something, I'd like to ask if it has been done already.
Thanks!
-
inigo333 said:
Any success doing so? (inigo333 at gmail.com)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't had time to try it yet, but a colleague suggested I try adding 2 diodes on the 5V line from USB to lower the voltage to 3.8V. I will plug this into the battery's circuit, replacing the other elements. I'll let you know when I get around to doing it (in a month or so).
Did it work?
Though it's been years - I haven't had time to try it
When I do, I'll probably go with one diode and supply 4.3V to the battery pins - because Li-Ion batteries can go to 4.3V...
Best solution for battery problem.
Attach 2 numbers of 18650 lithium cell of capacity 2200mah in parallel using smd type battery holder at the back panel.
Add an external li-ion battery charging module chip on the same side.
Take the internal battery's power management chip, discard the internal cell.
Connect externally attached battery power (+) & (-) ve to the internal power management chip of old battery.
Re assemble the mounted unit. Charge externally and enjoy.
Only problem is that, slim set becomes bulky.
Thanks,
But the problem is I wanted to run the Nexus 5 without a battery (from a charger). The goal being - it is always on, and there are no batteries to swell..
mad_ady said:
Thanks,
But the problem is I wanted to run the Nexus 5 without a battery (from a charger). The goal being - it is always on, and there are no batteries to swell..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The MT3608 2A Max DC-DC Step Up Power Module Booster Power Module is a low-cost module that can step-up a 2 to 24V input voltage up to a 5 to 28V output at up to 2A.
Use it inside the battery compartment.
Before installing preset output to 3.7-3.8 volt.
Fix it and use on dc 5 volt charger.