i am attempting to disassemble my p6800 if time permits and mod ito to accomodate another battery thingking of buying 2 new
3.7V, 5,100 mAh Li-Ion battery (SP397281A)
then fully charging them then connecting them both as the original battery is a 1s2p model and the connector has 5 wires does anyone with expertise in batteries help me to wire them up ?? thnx in advance )
geogetski666 said:
i am attempting to disassemble my p6800 if time permits and mod ito to accomodate another battery thingking of buying 2 new
3.7V, 5,100 mAh Li-Ion battery (SP397281A)
then fully charging them then connecting them both as the original battery is a 1s2p model and the connector has 5 wires does anyone with expertise in batteries help me to wire them up ?? thnx in advance )
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm no expert with Li-Ion batteries, but I do know you can connect two batteries in parallel to combine their capacity (Two 5100 mAh = 10,200 mAh). If you connect them in serial you will have the same capacity but double the voltage (Two 3.7v = 7.4v). When you combine them in parallel, I think you would need some kind of balancing circuit between the batteries and the device. That kind of thing is popular in the Remote Control world - as in remote control cars and planes and such. You might try asking about it in an RC forum.
However, when I look at the sticker on an OEM battery (on ebay) it is marked 1S2P. Which means the battery is already 2 cells in parallel (each 2,550 mAh). That is good news, since 1S battery combinations do not need balancing circuitry. You'd essentially be making a 1S4P. That means you need to connect all of the batteries + terminals to one bus and all the - terminals to a separate bus. You would need to do that before the Li-Ion charge-protection circuitry. So you'd have to peel apart the battery cover and see how they're wired up underneath. You _MIGHT_ be able to wire them together at the 5-wire connector, but that would be iffy, and I wouldn't risk damaging such expensive batteries and/or tablet.
Tom2112 said:
I'm no expert with Li-Ion batteries, but I do know you can connect two batteries in parallel to combine their capacity (Two 5100 mAh = 10,200 mAh). If you connect them in serial you will have the same capacity but double the voltage (Two 3.7v = 7.4v). When you combine them in parallel, I think you would need some kind of balancing circuit between the batteries and the device. That kind of thing is popular in the Remote Control world - as in remote control cars and planes and such. You might try asking about it in an RC forum.
However, when I look at the sticker on an OEM battery (on ebay) it is marked 1S2P. Which means the battery is already 2 cells in parallel (each 2,550 mAh). That is good news, since 1S battery combinations do not need balancing circuitry. You'd essentially be making a 1S4P. That means you need to connect all of the batteries + terminals to one bus and all the - terminals to a separate bus. You would need to do that before the Li-Ion charge-protection circuitry. So you'd have to peel apart the battery cover and see how they're wired up underneath. You _MIGHT_ be able to wire them together at the 5-wire connector, but that would be iffy, and I wouldn't risk damaging such expensive batteries and/or tablet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thnx for the reply still studying how to wire them )
geogetski666 said:
thnx for the reply still studying how to wire them )
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So, how did it go? Did you make it work?
Any improvement?
I have a Chinese tablet. planning to add 'mobile' battery in parallel . But i am worried about recharging them. Does the inbuilt circuit controls the recharging the battery?
Related
Currently I have one of the 4 x AA battery extenders which copes not badly for the average day trip, but often means getting a set of extra batteries while travelling.
This can be a compete pain if I am travelling on a longer trip and and have a stop on a bus/train in some place where I was not staying long enough to buy currency, and they dont take cards.
So...
How about soldering a USB cable onto one of these (last row is the UK price).
6V 4.5Ah SLA L21AC 7.99
6V 10ah SLA UD07H 13.99
6V 12ah SLA UD08J 14.99
6V 7Ah SLA N33FR 1034 3.99
Remember the Ah rating is for 6v - so 5 times the equivalent of one 1.2v rechargeable AA or 4 times that of a 1.5v disposable.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?ITAG=SPEC&ModuleNo=19363&doy=1m2#spec
The downside is they are obviously heavier, but have 3 times the capacity of standard rechargeables at under a kilo (but are small enough for the smallest side pocket on a rucsac).
The only downside is I dont know if they leak if battered.
Any suggestions/ideas?
wizardragon said:
The downside is they are obviously heavier, but have 3 times the capacity of standard rechargeables at under a kilo (but are small enough for the smallest side pocket on a rucsac).
The only downside is I dont know if they leak if battered.
Any suggestions/ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you thought about Li Ion or NiMh batteries, they give better performance, last longer and more importantly are lighter. I use them on a converted electric mountain bike......
Another option might be something like this...
Freeloader Portable Solar Charger
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?menuno=11936&FromMenu=y&doy=1m2&MenuName=Portable Energy Source
Specs say can run a PDA for 22hrs on its internal battery which is recharged by solar panels.
Good luck
Thanks
I had looked at the freeloader, but it does not really hold enough power as the battery drains at an alarming rate on trains or coaches as it tries to find cells, and using the net, playing music, keeping the display on, videos eats the battery power to much to make a freeloader viable on long journeys.
Also - a free loader is not really viable to get a recharge on a plane, or train or bus if not at the sunny window side.
However, could you recommend any larger capacity NiMh or Li ion batteries that don't break the bank?
Cheers
wizardragon said:
Thanks
Also - a free loader is not really viable to get a recharge on a plane, or train or bus if not at the sunny window side.
However, could you recommend any larger capacity NiMh or Li ion batteries that don't break the bank?
Cheers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I take your point on both counts.
The Li-ion battery packs that I use on the bike are 36V 2Ah Bosch cordless power tool batteries. Perhaps the power tool battery option might be suitible, as batteries/chargers are readily available and you could get a cordless drill as a bonus.........
Thanks/
I have a Bosch cordless hammer drill and the battery fits under around and to the front of the grip, but its massive, probably heavier than my motorcycle battery too. The charger for it is also pretty big.
How did you drop the voltage to make it work to charge in a USB range, as wont the internal resitance of the PDA vary vastly depending upon which functions it is performing?
I had noticed maplins did battery boxes for projects and had thought about either a 4x or 8x of C or D batteries or a 4x or 5x, C or D cheapo Maglite clone just to use for the battery storage tube.
However the downside with C or D batteries is most of the rechargable ones dont hold much over 3Ah unless going into the heavy price range, although these are starting to fall.
Did you find any specific battery with a good shape/weight/price/capacity?
Dear XDA, i really need your help,
I am planning to make this (see thubnail)
i want to make a custom case for my htc one s. (I know it will be a little bigger but that's ok)
I want to charge my phone using a usb cable or a micro usb cable, and at the same time doing OTG. I don't know what resistor i will use yet (tips?)
Also add an extra battery. It is an old phone battery. So if i want to charge from the battery i need to stop the solar cell and guide the electricity through the 5v regulator to charge. What ya think?
I am new to modding so please comment cause i need a lot of help to make this one succeed!
Greetings, pro-one1000
sent from htc one s ville
Don't mean to be negative but I see a couple issues right of the bat. First, where are you going to get a 5 volt charger? I would guess most dc chargers are going to be 12, 24, or 36 volts. I don't think they'll run on significantly less. The solar panel is only going to output about one half of one watt. Assuming no friction loss or inefficiencies that would hardly slow your phone's discharge.
If you want to power the phone and hub I would suggest a small sealed lead acid battery. They're available in 12 volts in many sizes. Easily enough power to keep phone totally charged. Will work with cigarette lighter car chargers so you won't need to customize that part. Depending on the size it'll last a week to a month non-stop. Unfortunately, it probably won't fit in your pocket but if you carry a book bag or briefcase you could hide it there... I use a battery like this at work when I'm using a lot of phone battery and moving around too much to plug in.
Good luck with which ever route you choose!
Sent from my HTC One S using xda app-developers app
thanks
lampel said:
Don't mean to be negative but I see a couple issues right of the bat. First, where are you going to get a 5 volt charger? I would guess most dc chargers are going to be 12, 24, or 36 volts. I don't think they'll run on significantly less. The solar panel is only going to output about one half of one watt. Assuming no friction loss or inefficiencies that would hardly slow your phone's discharge.
If you want to power the phone and hub I would suggest a small sealed lead acid battery. They're available in 12 volts in many sizes. Easily enough power to keep phone totally charged. Will work with cigarette lighter car chargers so you won't need to customize that part. Depending on the size it'll last a week to a month non-stop. Unfortunately, it probably won't fit in your pocket but if you carry a book bag or briefcase you could hide it there... I use a battery like this at work when I'm using a lot of phone battery and moving around too much to plug in.
Good luck with which ever route you choose!
Sent from my HTC One S using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your reply!
First about the charger, i will use my 5v 1amp charger (micro usb) or an usb male to male usb cable from my pc to charge. So i'll be able to get a charger.
You're i think right about the solar panel, i need to find a better one indeed, trying to get one cheap on ebay! If i try to search for a "smal sealed lead acid battery" i get 40 dollar + big cases of batteries, could you please give a example in the form of an ebay-link?
Anyway thanks a lot and when i have ordered the parts i will try to upload the stuff!
Greetings
I'm assuming the 5v charger you're talking about it a car charger; which means it would have an input voltage of 12 - 14 and won't run on 3.7 (and even if it could run on the lower voltage the amperage would go up dramatically draining the usable power in the battery in minutes. And I wouldn't connect anything to a USB port for two reasons: first, if you connect two batteries in parallel (red to red and black to black) and they're not identical one will usually drain the other as they try and equalize (unless you isolate them from each other). Second, I don't think most USB ports (USB 3.0 i believe has provisions to receive power) are designed to receive power on a computer and your schematic doesn't include anything to prevent back feeding power to the computer.
There are many solar chargers I've seen that would give you the output you need - I've seen them designed to trickle charge RVs, boats, cars, and motorcycles - but I think they would be way to larger for what your looking for.
And I guess I should clarify what I meant by small... Was a bad choice of words for a cell phone forum, I guess. I meant small relative to other lead acid batteries; i.e. car or boat batteries. This is similiar to what I use:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12VOLT-5AMP...US_Rechargeable_Batteries&hash=item589ef11aed
Attached is a pic of my batteries and the adapter that gives me a cigarette lighter type receptacle. And I use a spare motorcycle float charger to keep them charged. And because they're 12 volt batteries they'll power and accessory that is designed to run in a car.
I guess I should probably have asked what is your ultimate goal? And do you carry anything where you could stash the battery?
giesse1996 said:
Thanks for your reply!
First about the charger, i will use my 5v 1amp charger (micro usb) or an usb male to male usb cable from my pc to charge. So i'll be able to get a charger.
You're i think right about the solar panel, i need to find a better one indeed, trying to get one cheap on ebay! If i try to search for a "smal sealed lead acid battery" i get 40 dollar + big cases of batteries, could you please give a example in the form of an ebay-link?
Anyway thanks a lot and when i have ordered the parts i will try to upload the stuff!
Greetings
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your reply,
After thinking I want to use a second1-5 volt boost regulator attached a small high capicity battery of 3.7 volt. (like a galaxy sIII battery or something. So if i put the switch to on the extra battery should charge with 5v my phone battery. Or i could charge my phone directly from a high efficient solar cell with 5v.
I indeed have no idea how to prevent backfleeding. Do I need diodes / light emmitting diodes for this? And indeed the batteries you mentioned are way to big. I am planning to use an old battery from an other phone with the 5v boost regulator mentioned above. Further i don't understand where you see a computer in my scheme?
Your mod ( i think i it deserves that wonderfull name) with the 12v battery is a good idea. Very handy when going out without a charge point. I usually go to school and am probably able to put the large battery in there, but as i mentioned i want to keep it a "phone case".
My ultimate goal is to make the tiniest possible case for the htc one s ville with,
- a very small usb hub 4 port for 3 female ports and inside a micro sdhc memory for more storage.
- Add the charge ability, so i don't need to take the phone out of the case to charge
- be in otg mode and charging mode at the same time (i guess the hardest challenge)
optionary:
- Add a battery so when i get the actual phone out of the case the solar cell can keep providing power to the battery
- Add a solar cell
- make it actual work with multiple switches
Really appreciate your help!
Greetings,
I misunderstood "First about the charger, i will use my 5v 1amp charger (micro usb) or an usb male to male usb cable from my pc to charge" to mean you might have a computer available to charge. I guess you just meant the cable itself. Understood.
I'm not an electronics expert by any means but yes I believe diodes will prevent the current from flowing in an undesirable direction but they won't prevent one battery from draining another. Two batteries connected in parallel can drain each other and the diode will slow that but I don't think it will eliminate it. Might be able to mitigate the affect by opening one of your switches when the auxiliary battery is not in use. When two batteries are wired in parallel they are frequently connected to an isolator that has three terminals (for a two battery setup). Terminals one and two go to batteries one and two and terminal three goes to the system it's connected to. Batteries one and two never 'see' each other and therefore cannot affect or drain each other.
Not sure I have anything else that can really help... GOOD LUCK! And post pics and details if you build a working prototype.
Thanks again!
I'll try to order a couple extra diodes with low consuption, that plus the switches will hopefully do the job. I ordered yesterday the parts out of China, so it'll take a month to get it in my hands. Now I have more time to consider how it can be assembled all together, but if i get anything i will post it directly!! If it works i may try to make a tutorial for other people so they could also enjoy more ports on their phone!
Greetings
Hello all,
! Use this guide at your own risk. I am not responsible for damage to your equipment! You have been warned. Consult a electronics expert if you are not sure!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use my phone a lot, Wifi, game, and the battery is drained fast! I was looking for a solution.
First I used a powerbank 2600 mAh, but that you loose a lot of energy by charging. And it's not practical unless you buy a big powerbank.
A disadvantage is that powerbank will last a limited amount of charge cycles. I ususally use my phone al ot when I am at home.
When I was surfing on the internet I found a person who connected a other brand phone onto a lab power supply and it worked.
So I looked and bought a cheap Basetech BT-153, a set of 4 mm cable set, which includes a pair testing cables with a grapling hook in it.
First you turn the powerdupply on, and set the voltage to the same battery voltage as it's written on yours.
My S6312 has a battery voltage of 3.7V (EB464358VU). So I turn the voltage on the powersupply onto 3.7V. The current (mAh) turning knob does nothing. The current you cannot set at all.
Your phone will draw any current it requires. That's why in most cases you can use a powersupply with the correct voltage , but higher current. Your phone draws a current as it needs. As far as I know off this is in the most cases. Correct me if I am wrong.
Turn the powersupply off before you try to connect the testing probes with their hooks onto your phone. You don't want to short circuit anything.
That can cause malfunction!
I connected the red to plus (+) and the black one to minus (-). You can see which connector is plus or minus on the battery.
The middle one is used to get battery status as I have read. The middle one I did not use. Be carefull to connect plus and minus right!
After connecting the phone will give a warning that the battery is extremely low and that you soulf connect to a powersuppy. Ignore it.
I tried to power my phone by USB only, but that does not work. You have to connect power throught the battery connectors as far as I know.
I saw on youtube somewhere that a guy or girl made a wooden battery shape and placed the contacts onto it. That way you can easily switch between powersupply and battery.
Smart ! :good:
I bought the following items:
http://www.rapidonline.com/test-measurement/voltcraft-ms-6-test-probe-set-51-51631
http://www.conrad.com/ce/en/product/393647/Basetech-BT-153-1-Output-Variable-DC-Power-Supply-Bench
The phone shuts itself down after a while.
I tried connecting the usb cable to give the phone power. But it keeps saying that the battery is removed.
and shuts itself off. Is there a way to override the missing battery in the software? Is there a app that uses root permissions to override that?
If there is , then anyone could use an external powersource without battery.
Anyone?
Installing DisableCriticalBatteryshutdiwn module of the Exposed framework..
REsults: It still shuts down. Emailed Xposed for assistance , hope they have a solution.
Closer to the solution!
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2113843
Solder a resistor between the battery minus and the middle pin of the battery.
I used a 1K ohm resistor, that translates to a 4-5% battery charge....
Then I tried a 10K ohm. The battery charge starts at 6% and goes up! How odd?!
But everything works.... Maybe I made an mistake with the resistor value.
http://www.minco.com/Sensors-and-Instruments/Support-and-Tools/Thermistor-Resistance-Table
As the following webpage tells, a copper thermistor, I guess Samsung uses copper resistors, the value is between 5.128 ~ 19.116 ohm.
That could be an explanation that my 1K and 10K ohm resistors are causing my dummy battery is not working properly.
Then I got a warning message to connect my charger. Then I connected my usb connector and no warnings anylonger!
Going to find a better value for the resitor.
I don't have a 220 ohm resistor in my stock. But I do have several 330 ohm. If you connect 2 resistors of 330 ohm in parallel, the replacement resistor (Rv) will be lower than 330.
If you calculate it, it will result in a replacement value of 165 ohm. Link to an online calculator: http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-paralresist.htm
The phone still gives the indication that the battery is only 1% charged and starts charging. The phone shuts itself down after about a minute.
So now the issue is: How to fool the phone that "battery " is full?
I don't own the S6312 any longer. Gave it to a friend who needed. I guess it would work. But alas I cannot verify.
I just started a 2nd try to power my samsung phone without a battery.
But this 2nd try I am going to use a defect battery. Disamantle it and use the electronics of the battery to mimic the original.
Goto: http://forum.xda-developers.com/gen...-battery-2-t2941436/post56779273#post56779273
Edit: The critical power module of the Xposed framework was installed, but not enabled! Shame I cannot test.... Even if you enable it, don't forget to reboot to make it functional!
I'm using an old Samsung GIO (S5660) without a battery, powered through the USB connector.
It requires:
1) disassembling the phone and soldering a wire between the USB power connector to the battery + connector. There's a nice detailed video on youtube that walks through the phone teardown.
2) "special" boot procedure
The soldering part will probably dissuade most people from attempting this as you will need a decent soldering iron + a bit of electronics/soldering experience and a steady hand to solder the wire to the USB connector.
Here's a picture of the wire soldered to the +5V USB pin:
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The wire gets routed through the board where it gets soldered to the +5V battery terminal (unfortunately I don't have a pic of the solder connection to the battery terminal):
Prior to doing this mod, I just connected a 5V source to the battery terminals and the phone powered up fine.
I figured it'd be way cleaner to just tap the 5V power from the USB connector rather than add some other wiring/connector, so I went ahead with this soldering mod.
However, after making the soldering connection the phone wouldn't boot! It would show a battery icon briefly and then shut off.
So I figured there must be some circuitry on the phone that detects that the USB power is connected to the battery terminals but there's no battery there.
Anyways, I stumbled upon the trick "special" boot procedure -- basically boot to recovery (on the GIO, hold HOME key while powering up). From the recovery menu select reboot, and the phone boots up!
I'm using this phone as a tabletop clock and baby monitor receiver:
A nice way to make use of a device that would otherwise be tossed.
Not sure whether this would work for other Samsung phone models...
chihwahli said:
I don't own the S6312 any longer. Gave it to a friend who needed. I guess it would work. But alas I cannot verify.
I just started a 2nd try to power my samsung phone without a battery.
But this 2nd try I am going to use a defect battery. Disamantle it and use the electronics of the battery to mimic the original.
Goto: http://forum.xda-developers.com/gen...-battery-2-t2941436/post56779273#post56779273
Edit: The critical power module of the Xposed framework was installed, but not enabled! Shame I cannot test.... Even if you enable it, don't forget to reboot to make it functional!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
USB takes 5V and the battery terminal gives 3.3V. Joining these two is going to damage the power IC..
The whole concept does not make sense. Why not plug in the battery and keep the USB charger cable attached, so the battery keeps 100% charge?
Mobile repair technicians use external voltage booster device to power on mobile phones without battery, but its only for a short time.
It would be nice to able to power the phone without the battery when you play a game for 1-2 hours, my phone a Samsung note 3's battery is about 45% charge. That means recharging every day. Since Li-ion batteries last about 500 charge cycles. It does not take long before you need to buy a new one.
Is it a lot of money? No, but its senseless to play on battery if you can play by using an AC adapter.
That's much more efficient., cost effective, and less trash, thus better for the environment.
How many normal / rechargeable batteries get thrown away to be recycled every year? A lot!
Recycling is good, but itś better if you could prevent it. Recycling itself uses a lot of energy and water as well.
You would be surprised what amounts of energy and water that are required to separate trash and re-use it.
It's better to prevent creating more and more trash....
Samsung?? Apple?? Anyone?? A phone-dock or cable that can run a smartphone without battery please!!!!
Well, that is one product I would really like to have! Sell it to me! I have my cash ready =) Hit me!
Hmmm, going to try that later.... thanks.
AlbertDude said:
I'm using an old Samsung GIO (S5660) without a battery, powered through the USB connector.
It requires:
1) disassembling the phone and soldering a wire between the USB power connector to the battery + connector. There's a nice detailed video on youtube that walks through the phone teardown.
2) "special" boot procedure
The soldering part will probably dissuade most people from attempting this as you will need a decent soldering iron + a bit of electronics/soldering experience and a steady hand to solder the wire to the USB connector.
Here's a picture of the wire soldered to the +5V USB pin:
The wire gets routed through the board where it gets soldered to the +5V battery terminal (unfortunately I don't have a pic of the solder connection to the battery terminal):
Prior to doing this mod, I just connected a 5V source to the battery terminals and the phone powered up fine.
I figured it'd be way cleaner to just tap the 5V power from the USB connector rather than add some other wiring/connector, so I went ahead with this soldering mod.
However, after making the soldering connection the phone wouldn't boot! It would show a battery icon briefly and then shut off.
So I figured there must be some circuitry on the phone that detects that the USB power is connected to the battery terminals but there's no battery there.
Anyways, I stumbled upon the trick "special" boot procedure -- basically boot to recovery (on the GIO, hold HOME key while powering up). From the recovery menu select reboot, and the phone boots up!
I'm using this phone as a tabletop clock and baby monitor receiver:
A nice way to make use of a device that would otherwise be tossed.
Not sure whether this would work for other Samsung phone models...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
By keeping the smartphone, with battery attached to the charger. The battery life is going to shortened. Some people say that keeping the battery charge between 40% and 80% is optimal. Charging to 100% shortens battery life. Battery guides from various websites tell that. But if this is true for every kind of li-ion battery I wonder.
Attaching USB 5.0v to the battery contact directly is risky, damage is possible.
I am not sure how much extra voltage is circuit can take without going over it's limit. It might cause the electronics to work less long due to higher voltage. As in the formula: U= I x R
U = voltage
I = current
R = resistance
With higher voltage, the current will increase: I = U / R.
For instance:
i = 5 / 100 = 0.05 A = 50mA
i = 3,3 / 100 = 0,033 = 33 mA
The higher current will cause diverse electrical components to have a higher voltage, some components are made for a specific voltage. Using a higher voltage could result in damage. It's better not to take a chance...
sudeshkmr said:
USB takes 5V and the battery terminal gives 3.3V. Joining these two is going to damage the power IC..
The whole concept does not make sense. Why not plug in the battery and keep the USB charger cable attached, so the battery keeps 100% charge?
Mobile repair technicians use external voltage booster device to power on mobile phones without battery, but its only for a short time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
First you have to look for the voltage output your battery is giving. All batteries give different voltage output but its around 3.3V mostly. Then use a simple voltage regulator to drop-down the voltage. For example if your battery is giving 3.3 V output. then you can use LM7833 circuit for converting 5V to 3.3V.
IIRC, a fully charged lithium-ion battery has an output voltage of 4.2 V, fully discharged around 3.5? V
So the device most likely regulates the voltage from the battery anyways.
If you have no need for the device to be portable (as I said, I'm using it as a desktop clock and baby monitor) and you no longer have a battery (mine started bulging so it was time to throw it away...) then it's nice to be able use the device without having to buy a new battery.
Been running over a month with no overheating or other related problems.
sudeshkmr said:
USB takes 5V and the battery terminal gives 3.3V. Joining these two is going to damage the power IC..
The whole concept does not make sense. Why not plug in the battery and keep the USB charger cable attached, so the battery keeps 100% charge?
Mobile repair technicians use external voltage booster device to power on mobile phones without battery, but its only for a short time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is a nice idea to lower the voltage from 5V to any voltage required.
But the problem I face is, is how to fool any 3 pin Samsung battery that there is a battery attached??
I have not tried the trick by connecting the micro USB 5V, then through a voltage lowering circuit like yours, and attach it to the battery pins of my phone. Then attack micro USB, and see if it works.
I wonder if that is safe to try.
I'd expect the device to regulate the voltage from the battery terminals so it's overkill to add another regulator.
If you're worried about the voltage being too high, just insert one or two (depending on your level of worry) forward biased diodes to drop the voltage by ~0.7 V or ~1.4 V.
I'm comfortable with leaving it at 5V....
sudeshkmr said:
First you have to look for the voltage output your battery is giving. All batteries give different voltage output but its around 3.3V mostly. Then use a simple voltage regulator to drop-down the voltage. For example if your battery is giving 3.3 V output. then you can use LM7833 circuit for converting 5V to 3.3V.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, voltage sounds ok. As you have said, if I want to lower it I could.
@AlbertDude: How many pins does your samsung phone battery have? 3 pin batteries are easy to attach to a power-supply , Samsung's 4 pin li-ion batteries are different.... Samsung ace 3 has 3 pin battery.
Ace 3 works with power-supply and a resistor between ground and the middle pin.
Samsung Note 3 has a 4 pin battery and this a bit different. Tried several resistors, but the phone keeps detecting that it has no battery. So it will not boot past the Samsung screen. It just shuts down...
But I still have to try the boot into recover and reboot from that screen. Maybe it does work, not sure yet.
If someone tried or has a new idea. post =)
AlbertDude said:
I'd expect the device to regulate the voltage from the battery terminals so it's overkill to add another regulator.
If you're worried about the voltage being too high, just insert one or two (depending on your level of worry) forward biased diodes to drop the voltage by ~0.7 V or ~1.4 V.
I'm comfortable with leaving it at 5V....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Samsung GIO has 3 pin battery.
For the GIO:
- The "boot from recovery" trick was only needed after soldering the wire between the USB and battery pins. When I connected an external 5V source to the battery pins, the device powered up without problems.
- I have never had to use any resistors.
Good luck!
chihwahli said:
Ok, voltage sounds ok. As you have said, if I want to lower it I could.
@AlbertDude: How many pins does your samsung phone battery have? 3 pin batteries are easy to attach to a power-supply , Samsung's 4 pin li-ion batteries are different.... Samsung ace 3 has 3 pin battery.
Ace 3 works with power-supply and a resistor between ground and the middle pin.
Samsung Note 3 has a 4 pin battery and this a bit different. Tried several resistors, but the phone keeps detecting that it has no battery. So it will not boot past the Samsung screen. It just shuts down...
But I still have to try the boot into recover and reboot from that screen. Maybe it does work, not sure yet.
If someone tried or has a new idea. post =)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
AlbertDude said:
I'd expect the device to regulate the voltage from the battery terminals so it's overkill to add another regulator.
If you're worried about the voltage being too high, just insert one or two (depending on your level of worry) forward biased diodes to drop the voltage by ~0.7 V or ~1.4 V.
I'm comfortable with leaving it at 5V....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good and valid points.
For the middle point of battery which (in most batteries I assume) senses the temperature of battery through a thermistor, you can do things. Either use a thermistor yourself (again overkill) or just use a resistor. The value of resistor can be chosen so that it gives half of battery's voltage output which is around 1.6 V. This can be done using a voltage divider circuit easily.
here!
I came down to this post when i want to have my pocket wifi "battery"-less.
See if this helps
m.instructables.com/id/How-to-use-phone-without-battery
This is my first post so try to copy the set of words above on google and look at it on
the instructable website
Cheers!
Maybe it's time to get out and do something productive. Like possibly, putting your phone down and make a power supply for what you're looking for? Reading all these comments, you all seem reasonably intelligent and I would be willing to bet that if you focused your time on the problem instead of a game, whomever would most certainly figure out a solution. Yeah?
To find a way to replace a 4 pin battery with any powersupply. Someone with electronics skill could for example measure the signals from all the 4 pins of the battery with an oscilloscope. I guess. Based on the signals create a electronics schematic that will mimic those signals. I guess that will work.
But I do not have the skills nor the oscilloscope to try it out.
I'd like to know if there is a way to build an electric circuit to allow you to power up and operate a Nexus 5 without a battery attached.
I'd like to use the Nexus 5 as a "fixed" device, always on, always connected to the mains. Leaving the battery inside will cause it to age and eventually burst.
I'm guessing I could either try to feed the phone 3.8V (as the battery is rated), but I can't send the battery temperature values on its connector, or destroy the battery, remove the battery elements and leave the electronics in place and feed it current from there.
Before I break something, I'd like to ask if it has been done already.
Thanks!
-
inigo333 said:
Any success doing so? (inigo333 at gmail.com)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't had time to try it yet, but a colleague suggested I try adding 2 diodes on the 5V line from USB to lower the voltage to 3.8V. I will plug this into the battery's circuit, replacing the other elements. I'll let you know when I get around to doing it (in a month or so).
Did it work?
Though it's been years - I haven't had time to try it
When I do, I'll probably go with one diode and supply 4.3V to the battery pins - because Li-Ion batteries can go to 4.3V...
Best solution for battery problem.
Attach 2 numbers of 18650 lithium cell of capacity 2200mah in parallel using smd type battery holder at the back panel.
Add an external li-ion battery charging module chip on the same side.
Take the internal battery's power management chip, discard the internal cell.
Connect externally attached battery power (+) & (-) ve to the internal power management chip of old battery.
Re assemble the mounted unit. Charge externally and enjoy.
Only problem is that, slim set becomes bulky.
Thanks,
But the problem is I wanted to run the Nexus 5 without a battery (from a charger). The goal being - it is always on, and there are no batteries to swell..
mad_ady said:
Thanks,
But the problem is I wanted to run the Nexus 5 without a battery (from a charger). The goal being - it is always on, and there are no batteries to swell..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The MT3608 2A Max DC-DC Step Up Power Module Booster Power Module is a low-cost module that can step-up a 2 to 24V input voltage up to a 5 to 28V output at up to 2A.
Use it inside the battery compartment.
Before installing preset output to 3.7-3.8 volt.
Fix it and use on dc 5 volt charger.
Hi. I grabbed my small 1000mah powerbank, and a Li-Po battery from lenovo a7-30h (flat battery), that is 3.8V and 3550mah
What i've done:
1. desoldered 1000mah cell (3.7V 18650 cell)
2. removed protection and regulator board from lenovo battery (so that i had only + and - terminals.
3. soldered powerbank circuit to battery terminals
Now i'm charging the battery , i tested it. it charges phone and powerbank is also charging. I have a question tho. Is it safe to use it? I'm like,.... i soldered wires solidly, insulated it correctly, so that it wont ever short circuit on its own.
And is it ok, that i replaced 18650 3.7V cell with flat battery 3.8V min and 4.35 max? Will the battery charge fully?
aciupapa said:
Hi. I grabbed my small 1000mah powerbank, and a Li-Po battery from lenovo a7-30h (flat battery), that is 3.8V and 3550mah
What i've done:
1. desoldered 1000mah cell (3.7V 18650 cell)
2. removed protection and regulator board from lenovo battery (so that i had only + and - terminals.
3. soldered powerbank circuit to battery terminals
Now i'm charging the battery , i tested it. it charges phone and powerbank is also charging. I have a question tho. Is it safe to use it? I'm like,.... i soldered wires solidly, insulated it correctly, so that it wont ever short circuit on its own.
And is it ok, that i replaced 18650 3.7V cell with flat battery 3.8V min and 4.35 max? Will the battery charge fully?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Upload pictures please
aciupapa said:
Hi. I grabbed my small 1000mah powerbank, and a Li-Po battery from lenovo a7-30h (flat battery), that is 3.8V and 3550mah
What i've done:
1. desoldered 1000mah cell (3.7V 18650 cell)
2. removed protection and regulator board from lenovo battery (so that i had only + and - terminals.
3. soldered powerbank circuit to battery terminals
Now i'm charging the battery , i tested it. it charges phone and powerbank is also charging. I have a question tho. Is it safe to use it? I'm like,.... i soldered wires solidly, insulated it correctly, so that it wont ever short circuit on its own.
And is it ok, that i replaced 18650 3.7V cell with flat battery 3.8V min and 4.35 max? Will the battery charge fully?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could run 10s 18650 in parallel, and get 200000mah, it wouldn't matter. Your protection lies in the original powerbank circuitry, and no matter how many cells you use, and how good they are, and how nice you solder them, it will never make it better than it was before.
Question, how many A can it output ?
daedric said:
You could run 10s 18650 in parallel, and get 200000mah, it wouldn't matter. Your protection lies in the original powerbank circuitry, and no matter how many cells you use, and how good they are, and how nice you solder them, it will never make it better than it was before.
Question, how many A can it output ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It outputs 1A :/ I guess i'll just pick up one of Ankers Slim powerbanks (10000mah) . It will be far less bulky and safer