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HTC Apache Audiovox PPC6700 LCD / Digitizer Replacement Instructions

All I have right now is this from someone online who said he had the instructions. If anyone has clear outlined pictures to do this, please post it.
Thank you!
"There are additional screws that need to be taken out. You have to pop off the housing on the top that covers the camera and the antenna port. there will be at least 2 more screws there. Then you will carefully have to pop off the back starting at the bottom by where the stylus is and pull that off. There is probably going to be another screw holding the board in place. It has been a few months since i have done this. Then the board comes out and you have 4 more screws these are phillips heads. That will take the back housing off of the front. Then 4 more screws to take the back plate off of the front housing."

Places i've tried to find LCD Digitizer replacement instructions for cracked LCD
The Audiovox PPC-6700 I have has a cracked screen. I got an LCD replacement, but have no detailed instructions on removing the cracked screen. Here are some useful places i've looked at to find the answer to this issue if it helps you:
http://forum.xda-developers.com ... of course why else would I post it here
http://buzzdev.net/component/option...tart,0/index.php?option=com_phorum&Itemid=125
http://forum.brighthand.com
http://www.mobiletechreview.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php

Not the best...but better than nothing....
Here are my own instructions I started... maybe someone else can expand/refine/clean this up. I'm done with this finally. Changing this is possible, but not necessarily easy. There's this tinny like sticker on the OEM LCD in the phone that's a real pain to pull off of the LCD. The pictures are terrible too...sorry...again..something= better than nothing.
In the end, it works...everything except my toggle does not click in like it used to...that's probably because of that rubber piece I did not know about. (A rubber piece fell out when I was taking it apart and I never figured out where it was supposed to go..so if anyone knows where that belongs and how it should be oriented..please post it.)
I took the stylus out.
I took the miniSD plastic blank out/ or miniSD memory card out just in case.
I took the battery cover off.
I took the battery out.
I set the camera lens in between the picture of the flower and the sun in the back.
I took the rubber piece out..there's a little probe looking thing behind it. (Probably was not necessary to take out.)
I took the back camera cover off. (Remove two Philips head screws with a PH0 head.) There are 7 notches holding it in place. [One above sun/flower adjuster, one slightly to the right above the flash hole, one above the rubber piece, one a tiny bit below the rubber piece, 2 on the insides at the bottom of the philips head screws, and one to the right of the speakerphone.]
I took the green circuit board that has camera flash behind the camera cover off. (Pops up off slot after removing one philips head screw.)
I took the camera unit off. (Do not pull up on camera, just pull the green board up off. The camera is sitting there, the board is wired like the camera flash board was plugged in, just pop it off.)
I took the cell phone antenna philips head screw off that is above where the camera was.
I took the 4 torx .050 allen head type size screws out to remove the back plastic cover of the phone off. Be very careful prying this portion apart. There are probably about 14 notches maybe that holds the back plate on. Some say to start trying to pry it apart from the antenna, but I was able to pry it apart from the bottom part of the phone on the antenna side... not where the antenna is. Be extremely careful how you pry this apart. You have to watch out for the speakerphone wires, there is a plug for what I think might be the keyboard and or LCD, the vibrating weight, and the main board itself... you don't want to scratch or sever any of these parts.
I slid the antenna off of the main board. Lift the board and gently pull up and out the black antenna.
I did not take the speakerphone off, but it looks like you have to pull the wire from the board that would still be attached to the back plate. The vibrating weight is also on the backplate.
I took the main board out of the phone. Keep the slider in mind between the IE button and the recorder button on the side of the phone. The black portion on the main board needs to line up with the actual switch you would slide up or down with your thumb on the side of the phone. When pulling the main board out, slide open the keyboard fully/halfway. Watch for a black rubber piece.
I removed the 4 philips head screws that hold the keyboard portion of the phone to the LCD portion of the phone together and lifted them apart. There is a silver/grey tape that you need to pop up the data cable and pull the tape off to completely separate the LCD portion.
I removed the 4 torx screws from behind the LCD screen and carefully took the LCD portion apart.
...ok well it's getting quite annoying to try and write everything I did after this, but it's pretty self explanatory. If it's not, you probably should not be changing your LCD in the first place anyhow. In order to release the LCD ribbon, the plastic piece at the end will need to pop up at an angle..it's kind of like a winch.
Here's a similar phone that gets taken apart if that helps you out in any way.
.........http://www.mdatweak.com/downloads/Wizard_Service_Manual.pdf
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re
what is the toggle you are refering to? i took mine apart to clean around the screen without any instructions, and everything still works, but the digitizer has had it, where did you get your replacement from?

I got my replacement from eBay. goldelec
The LCD had a weird rainbow thing going on in the center of it, that you can see if you look at it at the right angle and the bottom corner looks bright white when the screen is on for an extensive period of time. Again, it works...better than what I had. I did not get great instructions, but what he sold me worked fine.
The toggle i'm talking about is the button in between the call and hangup buttons on the front face of the phone. That toggle switch just does not seem connected or stiff like it used to be. I can't "click" up/down/left/right or select anything. I am convinced the rubber piece goes behind it somewhere somehow. I just have to take it apart and figure out the orientation of it.

thanks for these pics & instructions, I just replaced with a part from goldelec on ebay as well (though the auction list instructions as part of the deal, they didn't come with my shipment, so your play-by-play was invaluable)...and there's no screws left afterward! Always a good sign.

Maybe this will help some people...
http://wiki.ppcgeeks.com/index.php?title=How_To:Disassemble_your_6700

lcd replacement instructions
www.htclcd.com has a lot of good lcd replacement instructions also
as well as the LCD's

I just took apart two 6700's today (had to replace the buttons on the face and the circuit board underneath so for now I scavenged the parts from my backup phone)
anyway the phone is surprisingly easy to take apart and surprisingly straight forward.
You do not even have to organize the screws as there is ONLY 2 kinds (I like that) and its obvious when to use each as they are very different in size.
a straight head will take out the star bits if your careful (if you have one of those many different jewlers drivers kits you will find one that fits just fine)
OK cover card stylus battery out.
4 screws. 2 dark large at the bottom 2 small silver at the top of the battery cavity (the one on the top right is hidden underneath a small white sticker)
Now the "top" plastic section comes apart. (the area with the camera) make sure the camera switch is ALL THE WAY one way first it will make things easier later.
Lift from the bottom LEFT there is a tab under the black antennae casing and a tab on the right next to the speaker. Pry gently and it will "pop free" don't YANK as the speaker is attached still.
Pop the speaker out (leave it attached no reason to mess with that wee connector.)
Remove the single screw from the center of those board. NOW caution there is a square white soft "seal" around the led do not lose it.
finger tail "pop" the boards out.
Camera module same thing finger nail "pop" the module pops out but those asside.
3 more larger dark screws remove them now.
Now you need to remove the back half the the shell. Lift with force till you have a small opening and start poking at the hold downs till you can work it free. the hang point is again the black antennae housing. This was the most difficult part to remove and it was not that hard. Use care so it will look clean when you put it back together if thats important to you.
Now you see the mother board. one single screw is left silver middle right side (away from antennae)
Time to remove the main board. you need to use CARE here as its "catched" on opposing side (the usb port and ear piece ports) and the Black antenna housing.) and also atached via a short ribbon cable.
Once you have it free SLIDE out the keyboard this will give you a lot more slack to lift up the main board and tilt it sideways.
Peel the tape carefully once its free it will "pop" free using the same style connector as the camera board etc.. used.
remove and put asside.
now remove the 4 screws holding the keyboard to the phone. its free put asside (those are the only 4 that are different just LEAVE them in there holes they will stay if you don't toss it around)
now remove the 4 black screws holding the back of the keyboard housing down. Pop it free (its not hard there are poke holes made for this like flat screwdriver slots)
once you do this the ribbon will slide through the opening no worries.
now act like your breaking a glow stick and "bend" the case sides so the screen can be popped up a little.
lift the orange tape and you will see a different kind of rubbon connector. its white with a tiny black flap. use a finger nail and lift it will ROTATE 90's to vertical. the ribbon cable will now pop free.
now remove the 2 screws holding down the circuit board. remove it and the button pad (this is why you had to lift the screen a little or these won't come out.
Thats it. I did not go further than this but I do not remember it "looking" like it would be hard at all to get the screen and digitizer out.
This is all straight from memory so read ALL this first and adapt as you progress. DO not take it verbatum.
If something does not want to give ASSUME you forgot a screw and be extra diligent to find it before attempting to increase the amount of force you use though sometimes it just "needs" a wee more force.
Good Luck
I should have taken pics which I usually do when I do this again I will take detailed pics.
Ohh dolt reassembly
do everything in reverse. thats it. here are some tips for the tricky spots.
Reinserting the button pad ribbon. IE reconnect the ribbon BEFORE you put it in. its a lot easier. make sure its in all the way push the flap back down push the tape back down. Easy
Rescrewing the keyboard into the main shell. Get it roughly lined up and LOOK INSIDE one of the holes as you wiggle it around. you will see the screw hole quite clearly when it appears. insert and screw down. Do one on the other side easy as pie.
When you put the main board back in you need to make sure the VOLUME slide switch is in the MIDDLE neutral position so it it lines up with the volume slider itself IE it has to move BOTH direction misalign this and it will be jammed one way or the other. Pop it apart and try again.
When you put the final cover back on make sure the SWITCH for the camera is in the same direction as the plastic lever (the actual switch) so that they line up when you snap them together.
thats it. Really not that hard.

Replacing screen.

I'm trying to replace the screen on my Arrive. But I can't figure out how to get the screen out. It looks like I can pop out the back behind it, but I can't figure out how it disassembles. is there a tutorial out there or something?

To replace the *glass*, which I'm assuming is what you mean (not the LCD - they're separate in this phone, for once!)
Follow the "replace HTC 7 Pro memory card" instructions to remove the first back piece. Next, remove the screws in the next plastic back and remove it as well (it'll be easier to remove as it's just screws and contacts - no clips or wires). At this point you should see an exposed PCB, and your phone's hinge (a set of springs).
Undo the 4 screws holding the hinges on, along with the two screws holding the "pop-up" bezel (there are access holes for them - it'll make sense once you get there).
Slide the hinges across the back of the display (like you were opening the phone, but pull by the hinges! otherwise you'll break the display cable) and you'll see two screws which hold covers onto the back of the display panel. Undo the one for the bottom panel and pry the plastic bottom panel off from the back to gain access to the touchscreen connector.
Next, take a heat gun to your display and pry the glass off - I hope your glass is shattered and that's why you're replacing it because otherwise this is hugely difficult - the glass is glued on and glued on tight!
You'll see the glass is attached via flex cable thru the plastic to a connector inside the back - this is why you had to take your whole phone apart! Carefully lift the tape covering the connector, flip up the connector, and remove the old touchscreen ribbon cable and chip. Thread the new one through and reverse steps to install.
I just used the remainder of the old glue to stick my new display on, by setting it under some heavy books overnight. Your mileage will probably vary - I'm not too picky and a slightly loose/mushy screen beats a shattered one for me so I just left it at that.
Otherwise you'll probably have to figure out how to glue the display glass back on properly.

http://forum.ppcgeeks.com/htc-arrive-7-pro/144512-htc-arrive-disassembly.html
Sent from my PG41200 using XDA Premium App

Generally, I would look for one of the teardowns that have become popular for when devices are first released.....sort of the one-upping of the unboxing video.

I had trouble finding a decent disassembly - the "big" disassembly sites (ifixit etc.) seem to have ignored the Arrive and all I found on YouTube was horrid quality and mostly worthless.
That ppcgeeks thread is definitely the best resource for pics - I found that peeling the metal tape and unplugging the entire display/front piece was unnecessary by exercising some care to not break the ribbons, and I found that I needed to go a step further and remove the bottom (behind the buttons) plastic cover from the display piece to access the touch digitizer flex cable (which was behind some horribly obnoxious yellow tape).

Replace Screen under digitizer
Does anyone have a walk through on how to change the actual screen under the digitizer? I took the whole phone apart, but everything on the screen half of the phone seems to be glued.
I figured i would look around before just prying it open.
Any help is greatly appreciated.

Someone please post pics about last steps?
I was able to take hinges out of way but I am not sure if I need to peel off the metalic film. Hence I still have my top cover with glass attached with the back of the phone.
After I reach I have no idea what to do and now putting together my phone without changing broken glass!

[Q] Opening lower case plastic flap

Morning!
Has anyone yet taken a closer look at the lower plastic flap of the case? The upper one with the power key opens readily to accept the SIM Card, but there also is a gap of about the same size on the lower part of the phone, just below the beatsaudio logo. This one has no opening to pry open with the fingernail, but i could nudge and move it a little by ever so gently prying with a tiny flathead screwdriver. There also is a small hole pointing within this flap on the very bottom of the phone.
Q: What is the hole? Drainage hole in case the phone gets a soaking bath? Hardreset microswitch? Or is it maybe a releaser that unhooks the flap and allows for easy removal (similar to the holes beneath DVD-Drive trays to remove a disk if the Drive is broken)?
I am trying to figure this out as of now, but for the life of my I cannot find a slim enough needle to get into the hole. Guess I will need to grind / file something down to see if something happens when inserting it.
Has anyone investigated this yet? Anything interesting beyond or is it just a second flap with additional antennas and no access to interesting bits and pieces?

Wonder is it where the battery placed? Perhaps there are website trying to disassemble One S to see is it easy to replace the internal battery.

If you are referring to the tiny hole at the bottom of the phone, that hole is the mic. Wouldn't advice on putting anything in there

lol its the microphone. in almost all devices it is locates there

Funniest sunday topic
You made me laugh... I remember first iphone users were talking about " OMG one of two speakers under the phone doesnt work OMG OMG "...And someone told them " It is mic ! " LOL....

psych0t1c said:
Morning!
Has anyone yet taken a closer look at the lower plastic flap of the case? The upper one with the power key opens readily to accept the SIM Card, but there also is a gap of about the same size on the lower part of the phone, just below the beatsaudio logo. This one has no opening to pry open with the fingernail, but i could nudge and move it a little by ever so gently prying with a tiny flathead screwdriver. There also is a small hole pointing within this flap on the very bottom of the phone.
Q: What is the hole? Drainage hole in case the phone gets a soaking bath? Hardreset microswitch? Or is it maybe a releaser that unhooks the flap and allows for easy removal (similar to the holes beneath DVD-Drive trays to remove a disk if the Drive is broken)?
I am trying to figure this out as of now, but for the life of my I cannot find a slim enough needle to get into the hole. Guess I will need to grind / file something down to see if something happens when inserting it.
Has anyone investigated this yet? Anything interesting beyond or is it just a second flap with additional antennas and no access to interesting bits and pieces?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't yet have the HOS. But I can tell you that the little hole in the bottom of the HOS is the phone mic...
And be aware that doing what you intend to do will eventually void your warranty... but go right ahead... it's not my money if you screw things up...

I have taken apart enough devices to know what I am doing (except for the stupidity of not considering the mic hole because they have becme so invisible these days that its easy to just forget about them heh...).
I changed broken digitizers on DHD and did a complete disassembly / reassembly of a Desire Z that took an Soda bath and both devices work to this day. I am just hell of curios regarding the PCB layout of the One S, mainly for the storage question (soldered or aftermarket slotted microsd mounted under the hood)
And FYI, under the lower flap is just another boring antenna and another plastic cover, no more screws like behind the top flap. Do't have the right tools here to go any further without actually risking damage, but after easter I will have a closer look at it in the company. Unless iFixit comes out with a disassembly tutorial faster than that hehe.
Warranty? Well warranty. I've had a few devices now from HTC and none ever had to go to service. And with the knowledge of how to fix it comes the option of just paying for the OEM spare part from some retailer later on and fixing it yourself in 1 day instead of sending your phone in and waiting on it to come back for 1 week or 10 days.
But thanks for the hint, I might have actually forgotten about that.

screws to replace screen stuck

So i ordered a replacement screen/bezel and it came with no tools. I used a tinny screw driver my friend had and got 2 of the screws off holding it together but the other ones are stuck so tight the screw driver metal broke while trying to get enough pressure to loosen them. They are starting to strip because they are stuck is there anything i can do to get them to loosen the grip they have? i need to get them off and fix this freakin thing.

Are you positive you're using the proper size screwdriver? I've replaced the screen in both mine and my wife's phones, and they were never that tight
Sent from my -P999 using xda premium

Yes you cant get any smaller than the size i used they just wont loosen up. They are tight enough that the screws are stripping there is no give even when applying downward pressure while turning thats why the small screwdriver broke. Almost feels as if they are fuzed in.

Will heating it up with a blow dryer loosen the plastic enough to get the screws out? or will the heat cause damage to the phone.

thegoochking said:
Will heating it up with a blow dryer loosen the plastic enough to get the screws out? or will the heat cause damage to the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Heating will expand everything and make it more difficult. Using a hair/blow dryer is taking too much risk.
You should take the phone to a home depot or other store which sells high quality screw drivers, such as hardened tip jeweller's screw drivers, and get one of the correct/exact size. The jeweller's screw drivers can be pressed down with the palm of one hand while the driver's bit is rotated with the other one by turning the screwdriver's shaft. A pair of pliers can be use to turn the shaft which will give more torque to, hopefully, break loose the screw. Additionally, you could carefully spray the screw head and immediate area with compressed air until it is really cold. The cold will shrink the screw and the surrounding area slightly, maybe enough to enable you to unscrew.
Here's some info: http://ask.metafilter.com/191476/How-to-Remove-Stubborn-Laptop-Screws

glue for screen ?

Hello,
After changing the screen of my moto G, the new one is no longer stuck and is moving.... I had to remove the original glue (tape?) with an hair dryer.
My question is : with what I then paste the screen?
thanks a lot

Phil77560 said:
Hello,
After changing the screen of my moto G, the new one is no longer stuck and is moving.... I had to remove the original glue (tape?) with an hair dryer.
My question is : with what I then paste the screen?
thanks a lot
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is a very annoying problem of the chinese displays that come with a frame or pre-applied tape.
The display+lcd assembly is too heavy to be held by any normal 2-sided tape (3M 300LSE for example).
After hours of checking how the original thing was made it turned out that it has a rubber-like gasket that is glued to the frame, which acts as bonding surface for the 2nd glue used to hold the digitizer to the frame.
These are all my own findings, sadly no pne is discussing this problem anywhere or at least I didn't find any.
I've used a transparent epoxy (65-70% resin ~30-35% oxidizer so the compound hardens slower).Use a wooden tooth pick to apply the glue on the frame, don't put to much of it, just a hair-thin line.
Put the screen on and press it well and be ready to clean off any glue that may come out of the edges. The epoxy is easy to clean until it's set, use isopropyl alcohol 99% or some dry contact cleaner with a cotton cloth or kitchen paper.
The drawback of using epoxy is once it's set, you won't be able to remove the screen from the frame by any viable means.This is not a problem tho, since you can buy the whole assembly, should you need to replace the screen again.
Good luck.

:good:
Thanks a lot for your tip.
I'm gonna look for epoxy and try to do as well as you
Thank a lot once more

same issue
Hi,
Thank you very much for having shared your experience with us .
I have exactly the same issue with my Moto G and I've finally found a way out thanks to you. I would try this but I'm afraid of doing it bad. Should I apply the glue exactly in the border of the display? Do you happen to have any video showing it in detail?
Have a nice day

birikif said:
Hi,
Thank you very much for having shared your experience with us .
I have exactly the same issue with my Moto G and I've finally found a way out thanks to you. I would try this but I'm afraid of doing it bad. Should I apply the glue exactly in the border of the display? Do you happen to have any video showing it in detail?
Have a nice day
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello,
You should apply the glue in the frame, as close as possible to the outer rim and spread it as much as possible on the thin inner lining where the plastic of the frame and the glass make contact.
You can also use universal transparent glue, like JIP or Henkel... etc.These glues are a bit more liquidish and it takes more time to set properly, but they are also more flexible and you can also remove the display with heat, should you have the need to .
Sorry no videos available on this, but with a little effort and reading you'll be fine.

liveroy's advice is great. I've followed it with success, although the screen I bought has the dreaded phantom touch issue (cheap ebay job!) and will have to go back (this issue was apparent even before I glued it to the mid-frame).
Firstly I separated the screen from the mid-frame with two small suction cups, designed for removing halogen light bulbs, on the top and bottom of the glass. This worked well, but I had to use very gentle tugs to ensure I didn't tear the ribbon cable. Because the double-sided tape used was already separating, this was quite an easy part of the job.
I used Araldite 2-Tubes Standard Epoxy, because it has a very long cure time, which allowed me to work slowly. With the screen and mid-frame completely separate and cleaned up, I then threaded the screen's ribbon cable through the hole before glueing. The trickiest bit was putting the epoxy along the frame where the ribbon cable is; to do this I just wedged some folded paper between frame and screen while I layed down the epoxy. I guess I could have just done this bit first and avoided the need for a paper wedge (this was used to prevent prematurely sticking the screen to the frame before all the epoxy's down).
I used the screen's plastic film to protect the screen from the epoxy, and cleaned the excess epoxy with an old bottle of disk head cleaner I found lying about (smelt very alcoholly!) and cotton buds. I used some clothes pegs to clamp the screen to the frame, but I took them off after a few hours. Then I left it for a couple of days. The result was as good as I could have hoped for. I can see a little bit of the dried epoxy in the very narrow trenches between the mid-frame and glass, but this doesn't bother me. Way better than having light streaming through the sides, and it seems like a really solid grip! When in use and getting warm I could still see a bit of lift at the sides, but because it was glued there was absolutely no gap.
Going back to the original need for this fix -
On my phone I believe this is due to a warped, concave logic board, effectively peeling the glass away from the mid-frame when fitted. If it were totally flat then I doubt this would happen. I guess the aftermarket screen manufacturers didn't factor this in when they decided to use "weak" double-sided tape. I've also noticed that, with the new screen in place, the outer back shell of the phone, that you put on last, doesn't quite fit at the bottom like with the old screen - there is now a small a gap where the inner plastic housing is exposed. I think this is because the new mid-frame is straighter than the old, and the old shell has itself bent over time.

Hi,
I'm happy to found this thread. It's the second screen i replace on my Motorola Moto G4 Plus because of this; you can view my comment here : https://www.witrigs.com/oem-lcd-screen-assembly-for-motorola-moto-g4-plus-black#customer-reviews
I will try to use super glue on the top of my screen, hope it'll work. EDIT 20190122 : it worked (be careful to not add too much glue like i did : it was covering camera when pressing !)
Thanks