Am I the only one that notices that you can be taking pictures and the as soon as you switch to video mode the video gets in real close and almost fills in the whole screen. This is crazy and annoying. Is there any way to turn this off? Maybe a setting that fixed this issue?
No, this is a hardware issue.
The answer is in this post:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/samsung-galaxy-s7/686490-does-anyone-use-video-stabilization.html
So what we need at least is a frame on screen showing us the exact video frame that will be recorded. Only that way we can aim correctly before pushing the record button.
Bright.Light said:
So what we need at least is a frame on screen showing us the exact video frame that will be recorded. Only that way we can aim correctly before pushing the record button.
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Not sure if you carefully read the information from the link I posted. You can already achieve that now.
ssj100 said:
Not sure if you carefully read the information from the link I posted. You can already achieve that now.
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I did read the ' answer' carefully, but setting the camera to 16:9 is unacceptable and definately not what I meant.
I just mean that I want a (colored?) frame of 16:9 on the display as guideline to show exactly what I will record when I start recording.
Bright.Light said:
I did read the ' answer' carefully, but setting the camera to 16:9 is unacceptable and definately not what I meant.
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Why is it unacceptable? You can still choose to take photos in 4:3. Whenever you want to record video, you have to switch it to 16:9 if you don't want the zooming effect (if you've set it at 4:3, then the phone automatically records in 16:9, hence the zoom) - the phone can only record video in 16:9 aspect ratio, so that's by design. The same goes with other flagship phones like the Nexus 6P and iPhone 6.
And by the way, taking photos in 16:9 gives exactly the same quality as 4:3. The only difference is there is less field of view with 16:9, relatively. Personally, I just set the camera at 16:9 by default. If I really require more field of view (rare instances for me), it's not hard to tap the phone twice to select the 4:3 setting. And because 16:9 is default for me, I don't have to manually change it if I want to record video accurately (without the zooming) etc. It suits me nicely, as I often record video. Furthermore, 16:9 photos take up the full screen on the actual phone, laptop, PC and TV for me, without the need to waste precious time editing.
ssj100 said:
Why is it unacceptable? You can still choose to take photos in 4:3. Whenever you want to record video, you have to switch it to 16:9 if you don't want the zooming effect (if you've set it at 4:3, then the phone automatically records in 16:9, hence the zoom) - the phone can only record video in 16:9 aspect ratio, so that's by design. The same goes with other flagship phones like the Nexus 6P and iPhone 6.
And by the way, taking photos in 16:9 gives exactly the same quality as 4:3. The only difference is there is less field of view with 16:9, relatively. Personally, I just set the camera at 16:9 by default. If I really require more field of view (rare instances for me), it's not hard to tap the phone twice to select the 4:3 setting. And because 16:9 is default for me, I don't have to manually change it if I want to record video accurately (without the zooming) etc. It suits me nicely, as I often record video. Furthermore, 16:9 photos take up the full screen on the actual phone, laptop, PC and TV for me, without the need to waste precious time editing.
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I prefer to see higher and lower too on my photo's. If I don't need it, I can remove it, but it's impossible to stitch that later on.
So, I should stick with 4:3, but then I will miss the correct frame for video. If you have kids, you should know that switching quickly is very important. What should be easier than to show two lines at the 19:6 position? When video recordging starts, I wouldn't mind if then that frame blows up.
So, for me the current working is weird, annoying and it seems to make it a bit slower. But, let's stop like this, each and every customer has his own thoughts about this and that's ok.
All good. The camera is just for fun for me. Maximum convenience is the theme here. And that's a "set and forget" 16:9 ratio for everything, and I know exactly what's included in the frame when I'm taking it etc. For my purposes, editing photos is a waste of time. I'd rather spend that time actually interacting with the "kids" etc. But totally agree, whatever makes you happy in the end.
Related
Here's a question- Is it possible to take/capture videos from the camera of the HTC Topaz in widescreen formats? I'm able to take pictures in widescreen formats (By widescreen, I mean that it uses up the entire screen when it generates a preview of the picture and then saves it in dimensions that are the same proportionally ), but it'd be great to do the same with video. Any answers as to whether or not this is possible on this deivce? I've seen it done on a couple of other HTC devices, or at least attempted... Any thoughts? Thanks!
I am not sure it is possible right now.
One thing you may not be aware of is that the widescreen picture mode is faked. All the phone is doing is cropping the real 5 Megapixel 4:3 screen ratio picture into a widescreen format. It is not as bad as a digital zoom but you are still losing pixels.
Whether it's possible or not....it's pointless.
Switching the camera to "widescreen mode" just reduces the number of vertical pixels.
You might as well record with the most number of pixels and crop afterwards.
So I love my pixel 2 and its google photos integration, I also like how when you take a burst/portrait photo it saves the original under the same photo (you open the photo and the 2 photos are at the bottom.) Now I have been for the longest of time just taking my photos in a 16:9 but with such a good camera I want all the pixels I can, so I switched to 4:3 but I HATE 4:3 so damn much, so my question, how do I save the original 4:3 photo but have a 16:9 photo taken by default too, cropped properly and selected as the `default`?
If you hate 4:3, just change the default to 16:9 in the camera settings? Sorry, I don't think the official google camera app supports dual formats. However, you could probably automate it with something like Tasker. If (new photo detected), send to (photo resizer), for example.
ViperPyro said:
If you hate 4:3, just change the default to 16:9 in the camera settings? Sorry, I don't think the official google camera app supports dual formats. However, you could probably automate it with something like Tasker. If (new photo detected), send to (photo resizer), for example.
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I never thought of tasker, Ill look into this soon, I hate 16:9 but throwing away data seems stupid and poor practice.
Update, I have tasker doing it automatically but since I take landscape and portrait photos this doesnt really work, someone mentioned that I can just offload this work to my pc, which I will do. Will edit this post with tasker info soon
Just wanna ask if anyone here remembers back when phone screens all used the 4:3 aspect ratio? I hate the new 18:9 - it's just too wide for most content viewing.
PuffDaddy_d said:
Just wanna ask if anyone here remembers back when phone screens all used the 4:3 aspect ratio? I hate the new 18:9 - it's just too wide for most content viewing.
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I have my nexus one infront of me and its a 16:9 so I mean... Also I havent had much experiece with 2:1 but my experience has been good
Gido5731 said:
I never thought of tasker, Ill look into this soon, I hate 16:9 but throwing away data seems stupid and poor practice.
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Dont you always crop the pictures anyway
With 4:3 you have more image vertical, horizontal is the same, so you have more to crop from :good:
I had a problem since I bought my OnePlus 7 Pro phone, the tall screen doesn't go well when recording an Instagram story, cause the viewfinder fill the whole screen (specially when using gesture navigation). This cause a bigger side crop from the original camera sensor, and then another top and bottom crop for the people who watch them. So it ends up in a lost of quality and a really frustrating experience, trying to readjust everytime the videos so people can watch them better and having them saved at a weird resolution instead of the standard 16:9.
So, if anyone knows a fix, or how to force the 16:9 aspect ratio in the whole app or hopefully just in the viewfinder section, similar to this fix I found https://www.reddit.com/r/oneplus/co...ries/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share
I would be extremely grateful, thank you so much!
I bought a new phone (iqoo 7) after 3 years. I am not sure if this is an android issue/feature or a phone specific issue. I can't help but notice that while playing videos on twitch, prime, youtube etc. the display doesn't use the entire screen space. A significant part of both the edges is blank and it really bothers me and is not a very good experience while watching a video. If i pinch out and zoom the video to fit to the screen then it because it is zoomed, some parts/edges of the video can't be seen. I am not up to date with mobiles however i used android 8.0 in my previous phone and was always able to use the full screen while watching videos.
Please refer to the attached screenshots.
Echoslam said:
I bought a new phone (iqoo 7) after 3 years. I am not sure if this is an android issue/feature or a phone specific issue. I can't help but notice that while playing videos on twitch, prime, youtube etc. the display doesn't use the entire screen space. A significant part of both the edges is blank and it really bothers me and is not a very good experience while watching a video. If i pinch out and zoom the video to fit to the screen then it because it is zoomed, some parts/edges of the video can't be seen. I am not up to date with mobiles however i used android 8.0 in my previous phone and was always able to use the full screen while watching videos.
Please refer to the attached screenshots.
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Try to pinch in with your fingers.
svetius said:
Try to pinch in with your fingers.
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As i mentioned, when i try to pinch in i lose some part of the video. As you can see in the attached screenshots. In this particular case after pinching the scoreboard disappears. Is there any way to be able to use entire screen with the help of an app/setting ?
Echoslam said:
As i mentioned, when i try to pinch in i lose some part of the video. As you can see in the attached screenshots. In this particular case after pinching the scoreboard disappears. Is there any way to be able to use entire screen with the help of an app/setting ?
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This happens with 2 different features
The one you're talking about is called fill screen and is specific per app and now a days specific to OEM which app they add in their OS release
The one you have right now is called stretch. It crops the area to fill the screen.
These both things occur differently as per phone as well since some phone screen ratios are 4:3, some have 16:9 and when any video is recorded it varies between these resolutions.
nikhilkaushik said:
This happens with 2 different features
The one you're talking about is called fill screen and is specific per app and now a days specific to OEM which app they add in their OS release
The one you have right now is called stretch. It crops the area to fill the screen.
These both things occur differently as per phone as well since some phone screen ratios are 4:3, some have 16:9 and when any video is recorded it varies between these resolutions.
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4:3 is unknown of now. Did it ever exist? Idk. 16:9 is out there, but not with newer devices. Most common now for screen ratios is 18:9 and my Pixel 5 is 19.5:9.
Echoslam said:
As i mentioned, when i try to pinch in i lose some part of the video. As you can see in the attached screenshots. In this particular case after pinching the scoreboard disappears. Is there any way to be able to use entire screen with the help of an app/setting ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This happens with 2 different features
The one you're talking about is called fill screen and is specific per app and now a days specific to OEM which app they add in their OS release
The one you have right now is called stretch. It crops the area to fill the screen.
These both things occur differently as per phone as well since some phone screen ratios are 4:3, some have 16:9 and when any video is recorded it varies between these resolutions.
xunholyx said:
4:3 is unknown of now. Did it ever exist? Idk. 16:9 is out there, but not with newer devices. Most common now for screen ratios is 18:9 and my Pixel 5 is 19.5:9.
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Yeah this is kind of a bummer since now a days companies are using different ratios cos of the notch or camera bump.
But this video resolution strictly depends upon the app that you are using to stretch the video.
I prefer mx player in this matter. Try it once if you'd like, it has both options.
Just wondering if there's any way I can get an astrophotography time lapse greater than 1 second? I would love to have 60 seconds, but I know it would probably take 4 hours or something.
Just wondering if this is possible or there's any third party apps that might be able to do this (take a longer exposure than the 4 minutes that astrophotography takes)?
I don't think it is possible, the astro time-lapse is made up from the images used to and then stacked for the astro image itself so you would end up with shed loads of images as well.
Have you tried just using the normal time-lapse option in the video settings?
Exactly, take a normal night video and then slow it down with editing software.
schmeggy929 said:
Exactly, take a normal night video and then slow it down with editing software.
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The dude is talking about astrophotography and long exposure shots for a reason. What will a "night video" do good? And timelapse is not slowing down the video. lmao
That is my mistake, I totally read his post wrong.
Thing is the astro time laps is made up of the individual shots taken when Astrophotography mode is active so those individual image have been taken at f1.85, if you just did a normal time lapse using the main lens the video will still be at f1.85 and with a bit of post processing it should work.
The other way around it is to just take a night mode photo every 30 seconds for 2 hours using a timer and a Bluetooth remote.
MrBelter said:
Thing is the astro time laps is made up of the individual shots taken when Astrophotography mode is active so those individual image have been taken at f1.85, if you just did a normal time lapse using the main lens the video will still be at f1.85 and with a bit of post processing it should work.
The other way around it is to just take a night mode photo every 30 seconds for 2 hours using a timer and a Bluetooth remote.
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You're talking about Aperture that is FIXED and completely irrelevant in this case. It's not like you have a variable aperture on the lens so you can adjust it.
What matters in his case is the shutter speed and the exposure time.
And no, normal timelapse WON'T work because the shutter speed will be low (fast) and the phone will try to compensate by pushing the ISO high. You'll end up with very dark scenes and TONS of noise.
And what makes Astro mode very important is the FRAME STACKING. Frame stacking reduces the overall noise and increases the "quality" of the image.
Deadmau-five said:
Just wondering if there's any way I can get an astrophotography time lapse greater than 1 second? I would love to have 60 seconds, but I know it would probably take 4 hours or something.
Just wondering if this is possible or there's any third party apps that might be able to do this (take a longer exposure than the 4 minutes that astrophotography takes)?
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Not with stock camera.
You can try MotionCam Pro for that. It has a timelapse option where you can set your exposure time even to 15 seconds.
MotionCam is mainly for RAW video recording, but you can do photos and time-lapses. The output is absolutely GREAT. You're working with a RAW VIDEO basically and the quality is not comparable to ANY other app.
I had one Astro timelapse from it but I can't seem to find it now. It's sh**y weather outside now so can't do even a short one. I could do just a daylight one so you can see what quality I'm talking about here.
Uploaded a screenshot of the viewfinder. As you can see on the SS, you can adjust the ISO and shutter speed (among many other things) and do a timelapse.
This is basically taking RAW shots that you can later post process with various editing software like, Davinci Resolve, Adobe Premiere, Vegas, etc...
What you get is a video quality on the level of a DSLR and BETTER because there is no post-processing involved on the phone, it's basically RAW DNG images taken (sequence) that you can export (render) into a video at your QUALITY choice with YOUR post-processing involved.
Here is one sample I shot at and rendered to 4k60 (no color grading, just stock output).
Keep in mind that this is YOUTUBE, the quality of the original video is FAR better.
JohnTheFarm3r said:
You're talking about Aperture that is FIXED and completely irrelevant in this case. It's not like you have a variable aperture on the lens so you can adjust it.
What matters in his case is the shutter speed and the exposure time.
And no, normal timelapse WON'T work because the shutter speed will be low (fast) and the phone will try to compensate by pushing the ISO high. You'll end up with very dark scenes and TONS of noise.
And what makes Astro mode very important is the FRAME STACKING. Frame stacking reduces the overall noise and increases the "quality" of the image.
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I know the aperture is fixed that's why i said it should work given the astrophotography mode time lapse is made up from the 16 images taken when the mode is active and not once the images have been stacked in to a single image. Given the way you talk you of all people should appreciate just how fast f1.85 is, not a single one of my Canon L lenses is that fast or even comes anywhere close to it.
The OP has nothing to lose by giving it a go before recommending extra software and shooting raw (it is raw BTW if we are getting picky, it isn't an acronym for anything).
MrBelter said:
I know the aperture is fixed that's why i said it should work given the astrophotography mode time lapse is made up from the 16 images taken when the mode is active and not once the images have been stacked in to a single image. Given the way you talk you of all people should appreciate just how fast f1.85 is, not a single one of my Canon L lenses is that fast or even comes anywhere close to it.
The OP has nothing to lose by giving it a go before recommending extra software and shooting raw (it is raw BTW if we are getting picky, it isn't an acronym for anything).
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Where did I say ANYTHING against the fixed aperture of F1.85? I just said that since it's fixed, it's not relevant to the "settings" he uses since he CAN'T change the aperture value anyway.
It's not about "losing" anything, it's about the technical part of understanding that your recommendation won't work because it doesn't use long exposure shutter speeds or frame stacking.
By NOT using frame stacking, the noise will be horrible and there is little much you can do with post-processing without killing completely the "details" on the photo by suppressing both luma and chroma noise.
Another thing is that regular timelapse doesn't push long exposures...It's just not meant to be used for "astro", that's all.
Erm ok fella but how do you think this was all done before Google and its wonderful computational photography came along?
My point about the aperture is it is very fast so it being fixed is not irrelevant at all given it is the only chance of this even working, the OP may have tried it at 0.5x or 5x where the apertures are much slower, the OP has absolutely nothing to lose by giving it a go, it might be crap, you might end up with only the brightest objects in the sky, you might end up with a noisy mush and yet it might be good fun who knows.
Sadly there is always one person that comes along and stomps on the parade because they know best though isn't there?
MrBelter said:
Erm ok fella but how do you think this was all done before Google and its wonderful computational photography came along?
My point about the aperture is it is very fast so it being fixed is not irrelevant at all given it is the only chance of this even working, the OP may have tried it at 0.5x or 5x where the apertures are much slower, the OP has absolutely nothing to lose by giving it a go, it might be crap, you might end up with only the brightest objects in the sky, you might end up with a noisy mush and yet it might be good fun who knows.
Sadly there is always one person that comes along and stomps on the parade because they know best though isn't there?
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It was done in a way that results were not even close to what we have today. Why use "outdated" methods when we have these VERY capable devices?
The app I suggested is great and has exactly what is he looking for.
Your logic of "How did we do this before XY time" is equal to "Let's just ride horses instead of cars because that's how we did it before". lmao