Morning!
Has anyone yet taken a closer look at the lower plastic flap of the case? The upper one with the power key opens readily to accept the SIM Card, but there also is a gap of about the same size on the lower part of the phone, just below the beatsaudio logo. This one has no opening to pry open with the fingernail, but i could nudge and move it a little by ever so gently prying with a tiny flathead screwdriver. There also is a small hole pointing within this flap on the very bottom of the phone.
Q: What is the hole? Drainage hole in case the phone gets a soaking bath? Hardreset microswitch? Or is it maybe a releaser that unhooks the flap and allows for easy removal (similar to the holes beneath DVD-Drive trays to remove a disk if the Drive is broken)?
I am trying to figure this out as of now, but for the life of my I cannot find a slim enough needle to get into the hole. Guess I will need to grind / file something down to see if something happens when inserting it.
Has anyone investigated this yet? Anything interesting beyond or is it just a second flap with additional antennas and no access to interesting bits and pieces?
Wonder is it where the battery placed? Perhaps there are website trying to disassemble One S to see is it easy to replace the internal battery.
If you are referring to the tiny hole at the bottom of the phone, that hole is the mic. Wouldn't advice on putting anything in there
lol its the microphone. in almost all devices it is locates there
Funniest sunday topic
You made me laugh... I remember first iphone users were talking about " OMG one of two speakers under the phone doesnt work OMG OMG "...And someone told them " It is mic ! " LOL....
psych0t1c said:
Morning!
Has anyone yet taken a closer look at the lower plastic flap of the case? The upper one with the power key opens readily to accept the SIM Card, but there also is a gap of about the same size on the lower part of the phone, just below the beatsaudio logo. This one has no opening to pry open with the fingernail, but i could nudge and move it a little by ever so gently prying with a tiny flathead screwdriver. There also is a small hole pointing within this flap on the very bottom of the phone.
Q: What is the hole? Drainage hole in case the phone gets a soaking bath? Hardreset microswitch? Or is it maybe a releaser that unhooks the flap and allows for easy removal (similar to the holes beneath DVD-Drive trays to remove a disk if the Drive is broken)?
I am trying to figure this out as of now, but for the life of my I cannot find a slim enough needle to get into the hole. Guess I will need to grind / file something down to see if something happens when inserting it.
Has anyone investigated this yet? Anything interesting beyond or is it just a second flap with additional antennas and no access to interesting bits and pieces?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't yet have the HOS. But I can tell you that the little hole in the bottom of the HOS is the phone mic...
And be aware that doing what you intend to do will eventually void your warranty... but go right ahead... it's not my money if you screw things up...
I have taken apart enough devices to know what I am doing (except for the stupidity of not considering the mic hole because they have becme so invisible these days that its easy to just forget about them heh...).
I changed broken digitizers on DHD and did a complete disassembly / reassembly of a Desire Z that took an Soda bath and both devices work to this day. I am just hell of curios regarding the PCB layout of the One S, mainly for the storage question (soldered or aftermarket slotted microsd mounted under the hood)
And FYI, under the lower flap is just another boring antenna and another plastic cover, no more screws like behind the top flap. Do't have the right tools here to go any further without actually risking damage, but after easter I will have a closer look at it in the company. Unless iFixit comes out with a disassembly tutorial faster than that hehe.
Warranty? Well warranty. I've had a few devices now from HTC and none ever had to go to service. And with the knowledge of how to fix it comes the option of just paying for the OEM spare part from some retailer later on and fixing it yourself in 1 day instead of sending your phone in and waiting on it to come back for 1 week or 10 days.
But thanks for the hint, I might have actually forgotten about that.
Hi all,
Here's my 5 minute wireless charging mod. Now new and improved so that NFC performance is not affected at all. I've also posted step-by-step pictures to aid in explaining the hack.
You need to make one decisions before you start, do you care more about using NFC or using a magnetic compass app? The reason for this is that the magnetic sensors are in the bottom part of the phone. If you use magnets instead of metal disks, this will affect the accuracy of the magnetic sensors, so a compass app will not work well. But if you use the metal disks that come with the Palm case, and you do the hack with the coil very low in the phone case, it won't hold through a case, so you may need to build some sort of rest for it. I use NFC all the time, and never use the compass, so decided to go with replacing the metal disks with N42 magnets. Also, this charging mod works fine through most cases, I've tested it with TPU and with the Rock cases. It might not work through an Otterbox, I haven't tested it. Using magnets makes it more likely to work with cases. Alternatively, you could use the nonmagnetic disks, but rig up some sort of support so that the phone would sit in the right place on the charger without depending on magnets.
No soldering, no carving, the only tools you need are a knife, and some scotch tape! Some sort of plastic tool, even a plastic knife is helpful too.
The shopping list is below, and totals about $17-$19 depending on which vendors you buy from. The links below are from Amazon, for simple one-stop shopping. You may want to buy two Touchstones for home and office. I wouldn't try to cheap out and use another AC adapter, as most of the adapters I tried failed to work with the Touchstone base.
Palm Pixi Charging back
Palm Touchstone charger
Palm Touchstone AC adapter (important, most chargers won't work)
Copper Tape
OR
Copper tape from Michael's
50% off coupon for Michaels
If you want to replace the metal disks with magnets, to make the phone hold better to the charger, then buy these magnets from Amazon, or
http://www.amazon.com/Applied-Magnets-Earth-Neodymium-Discs/dp/B0012AUU84/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1350067151&sr=1-1&keywords=neodymium+disk+magnets+1%2F4+1%2F32
these from ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190734931794
Total = $17-$19
Time: 5 minutes.
Okay, here's what you do.
Picture 1: Shows the Palm Pixi charging case as you will recieve it. (I recommend the Palm Pixi, not the Palm Pre, as the polarities are reversed on the Palm Pre.) After you get all the parts, gently peel the black tape off the Palm pixi case, (Picture 2 and 3). Then gently and carefully remove the circuit board (Picture 4), the silver metallic tape (Picture 5), the coil (Picture 6), and metal discs. Preserve the silver foil tape, you will need it. You may also want to preserve the black tape.
Next, I show that you can make a template for positioning the coil and discs/magnets by cutting up the Palm Case (Picture 7), and then drilling out holes where the metal discs and the center of the copper coil are (Pictures 8 and 9). I then made a paper template, which is easier to use (Picture 10).
Now here's the clever part of the hack. Put the coil into your Samsung battery cover upside down, as shown in Picture 11. Then fold the L shaped flexible circuit board up as shown in Pictures 12 and 13. This positions it so that you can make an easy connection to the phone using just copper tape. You will run small pieces of copper tape from the top and the bottom power terminals, which are those little square metal terminals shown in Picture 13. (Picture 14 and 14-5). You can then position the discs or magnets. The easiest way to do this is to plug in your Touchstone base, and then lay the back cover on the Touchstone charger. Put your magnets or discs in, and make sure they align with the magnets in the Touchstone base. Note that if you use magnets, you may have to flip them to get them into the right orientation. Use the template you made to check the alignment. Once you get it like the picture, just tape everything down with scotch tape. (Not the terminals.) (Picture 14-5 shows this clearly.) Note that you need to put back in the silver tape over the coil as shown in Picture 14-5, otherwise it won't charge.
Cut the copper tape down to about 1/8 of an inch, and tape two extensions from the charging terminals in the phone. I used a pencil to poke the tape down into the little wells so there was a good contact. Next, lay down the cover and the phone, and tape copper tape to the charging terminals on the charging coil so they will hit the tape on the phone when you close the cover. I folded under the final 1/8 of an inch to make a little lump, to make it more reliable. (Picture 16).
It's useful to check your work with a voltmeter. Place the battery cover with the mod onto the Touchstone base, and check to make sure you are getting 5.5 volts off of the two terminals. Then after you add the copper tape extensions, make sure they are reading the same voltage. If you are not getting voltage, press the tape harder onto the terminals, as the sticky side is less conductive. You could also fold over the copper tape onto the terminals, and scotch tape it down.
Finally put the back onto the phone, and test to see if you get the popup message in Picture 19. If all is good, then you can open it up again and add back the black tape to make it pretty (if you care). (Picture 15). Then should be no real bulge as shown in Pictures 17 and 18.
If it's not working, there are three possible reasons. One, you have a bad connection between the terminals and the copper tape. Check it with a voltmeter. Two, the copper tape that goes into the phone's charging terminals is not making good contact. Fold over a bit of the tape, and gently jam it down into the terminals. (Gently so that you don't break them off!) The third reason is that the tape pieces from the coil are not making contact with the pieces on the phone, see Picture 16 for how the alignment should be. If you are getting the popup repeatedly, then you have an intermittent connection.
Oh, one more thing. Be sure to test this with your phone at less than 100% charge, as it won't work if your phone is 100% charged! I found this out the hard way!
Close the cover and you are done! It sounds complicated, but actually if you just copy the picture, it takes 5-10 minutes.
Here are the pictures, numbered as in the instructions:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/qpymo0x6rpmkezx/XMT4z_wDq_/New%20Improved%20wireless%20Charging%20Hack
Thank you's appreciated.
A FEW UPDATES: Here are a few updates from clever ideas from our members.
You can use hotglue to attach everything once you are sure of the location.
The disks in the Pixi cover are metal, not magnets. Replace them with magnets for a better hold.
The magnets (and the coil) could go in a case like an otterbox, instead of inside the phone. Then you'd run thin wires into the battery case. Or you can run the copper foil out from inside your phone so that it connects with the mod inside the case. See post #217 for a way to do this elegantly.
BE aware, the Palm Pre polarities are reversed, so if you use a Palm Pre back, you will have to reverse the polarity.
IF YOU AREN'T GETTING VOLTAGE:
The most common problems are:
1. You are not using a palm charger and cable for the Touchstone. Most chargers/cables won't work, it's better to just use the Palm charger, they cost $4 on Amazon. Are you using the Palm charger/cable?
2. Your copper tape is not making good contact with the little prongs on the flexible circuit board. Try removing the tape and checking voltage on the prongs themselves. Then put the copper tape on firmly, and check the tape for voltage.
3. The coil is not in the right place. You may want to make a template like I suggested to get everything aligned properly. You won't get voltage if the coil is not just right. Use scotch tape to get everything working, then you can use more permanent methods.
4. You used a Palm Pre back instead of a Palm Pixi back, and you forgot that the polarities are reversed on the Pre back.
5. You are not getting a good contact at the charging pins on the phone. Do this: (thanks nonsns3)
Cut tape a quarter inch wide. Ball up a quarter inch on one end and tape it so that the ball is right above the connector pins. Also make sure the exposed part of the ball is not the sticky side. Using a pen, push the ball end into the hole so that it contacts with the pin and you should be all set. This should be the easy part.
Most of the time the two issue areas are:
1) copper tape doesn't make good contact with the pin on the back cover because one side is adhesive.
2) copper tape doesn't make contact between the back cover and the copper tape on the phone itself when you close the cover.
FAQ:
Can I charge the regular way with a micro usb charger after I make this mod?
Yes, it works fine. Just don't plug in the micro usb and the touchstone simultaneously, as I don't know what would happen.
Should I use magnets in the mod instead of the metal disks?
It depends on how thick a case you plan on using, and how firm a grip you want the phone to have on the Touchstone base. You can always use scotch tape and test it both ways.
Will this interfere with NFC?
No, typically it won't, and you can decide on the placement of the mod over the battery, or below the battery. Below the battery has no effect on the NFC, over the battery makes NFC a little more finicky about positioning.
Will this interfere with my compass app?
Only if you use magnets instead of the stock metal disks. And then only if you put the mod low in the battery cover, as the sensors are low down.
Will this interfere with GPS?
Absolutely not.
My phone slides off the Touchstone base, what should I do?
I've modded my bases so that the top is horizontal instead of sloped, which makes phone alignment easier. I used Sugru, but any substance that allowed you to fit in the bottom will work.
Everything was working great, now it stopped working.
Usually the reason is that you've dislodged some connection inside the phone. If this happens, just open up the battery cover, and check all the connections, especially where the copper tape meets the charging terminals inside the phone.
Should I put magnets onto the Touchstone base?
Yes, see my attached picture, this helps with a firmer grip, and may even obviate the need for using magnets inside your SG3 case. Note the magnets can attach two ways depending on their polarity.
I find the charging noise annoying, especially after the phone is fully charged, and it keeps beeping at me.
Yes, on some ROMs this is very annoying. To fix it if you have root, use Root Explorer to got to /system/media/audio/ui . Then press the button on the top right that says, "Mount R/W" so you can change the files. Find Charger_Connection.ogg and either delete it or if you might want it back, just rename it to Charger_Connection.ogg.bak . Reboot, and no more noise, but be sure you see the charging indicator on the phone since you won't hear a beep.
I am considering doing this but with a twist. I would put the coil between the otterbox rubber and hard plastic and put the wires though a hole in the battery door. I would probably have to cut or thin out the rubber so it would fit flush, but I am confident it could go through the fairly thin otterbox plastic.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
This seems like a cool idea but whats the point if it needs to stay on the touchstone? (If im correct on that)
Nice work. I really like this and will be doing it as soon as I get money for the parts. Thanks for sharing
Sent from my s3 using xda premium
I'm pretty sure all wireless charges have to sit on their charging bases. The simply alleviate the need to hook up cables to you phone (which could as to the life of the phone considering how many times you'll be plugging it on over the next year or two).
--
Sent on the fly.
Just curious. Does this mod interfere with NFC?
Sent from my SCH-I535 using xda premium
The point here is to eliminate the foolish cases that wireless chargers have to equip your phone with to work. This is one of those amazing things that this site has to offer. Fine work my friend!
Sent from my SCH-I535 using xda premium
android94301 said:
Hi all,
Here's my 5 minute wireless charging mod.
No soldering, no carving, the only tools you need are a knife, and some scotch tape!
The shopping list is below, and totals about $17-$19 depending on which vendors you buy from. The links below are from Amazon, for simple one-stop shopping.
Palm Pixi Charging back
Palm Touchstone charger
Palm Touchstone AC adapter (important, most chargers won't work)
Copper Tape
OR
Copper tape from Michael's
Total = $17-$19
Time: 5 minutes.
Okay, here's what you do. After you get all the parts, gently peel the black tape off the Palm pixi case, and remove the coil, and magnets. Preserve the silver foil tape, you need it. Mark the top of the magnets with a marker, and gently dig them out with a knife. Don't break them.
Pop open your Samsung Galaxy S3.Lay the back cover on the Touchstone charger, and put the magnets in the same orientation they were in in the Pixi cover. If you flip the orientation, they will be too close together. Then lay in the coil, with the tape extending up to the right. Make sure there is enough room to add the copper tape later. You may need to slide the cover so the magnets are slightly to the left.
Once you get it like the picture, just tape everything down with scotch tape. (Not the terminals.) Cut the copper tape down to about 1/8 of an inch, and tape two extensions from the charging terminals in the phone. I used a pencil to poke the tape down into the little wells so there was a good contact. Next, lay down the cover and the phone, and tape copper tape to the charging terminals on the charging coil so they will hit the tape on the phone when you close the cover. I folded under the final 1/8 of an inch to make a little lump, to make it more reliable.
Close the cover and you are done! It sounds complicated, but actually if you just copy the picture, it takes 5 minutes.
Several tips:
I actually replaced the magnets with some that were a little more powerful, but you can get away with using the original magnets.
If you want to have a more finished look, you can use the black tape cover from Pixi cover to cover over the mod, but I'd tape it first, and make sure everything works.
Here are the pics:
Thank you's appreciated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wouldn't those magnets mess with the phone's magnetometer thus things like the compass? I wouldn't see a problem to do away with the magnets and just put it on a regular wireless charging pad so there isn't a need for the magnets. Other than that issue, kudos for the directions for such a cheap mod :good:
RyanW114 said:
Wouldn't those magnets mess with the phone's magnetometer thus things like the compass? I wouldn't see a problem to do away with the magnets and just put it on a regular wireless charging pad so there isn't a need for the magnets. Other than that issue, kudos for the directions for such a cheap mod :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
I just tested it with Smart Compass, and it seems to work. How many people use a compass app anyway? Don't most use GPS, which isn't affected by the small magnets.
In terms of NFC, I haven't tried NFC, so I don't know. But other's who've used the same system don't have problems with NFC. You could always mount the coil lower, so it wasn't near the NFC chip.
I don't understand the question about the phone needing to stay on the Touchstone. How is that different from the phone needing to be plugged in while charging? The major advantage of this mod is that a) it's way cheap and way cool, and b) you won't wear out the micro usb port plugging in and out. Also, I find it much more convenient to just lay my phone down on the charger whenever I am not using it, so it's always fully charged.
con247 said:
I am considering doing this but with a twist. I would put the coil between the otterbox rubber and hard plastic and put the wires though a hole in the battery door. I would probably have to cut or thin out the rubber so it would fit flush, but I am confident it could go through the fairly thin otterbox plastic.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That would work, although with slightly stronger magnets like what I used, my phone has a Rock Case on it, and everything works right thru the back cover and the Rock Case.
Ahh I see, not worth it to me, I use my phone while charging a lot.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using xda premium
android94301 said:
That would work, although with slightly stronger magnets like what I used, my phone has a Rock Case on it, and everything works right thru the back cover and the Rock Case.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to hear this works through the Rock case!
I already had all the parts you listed in the mail before you started this thread, and my biggest two worries were:
1. Slight bulge from coil might prevent Rock case from fitting
2. Rock case will prevent this from charging
Great to know neither of these will be a problem!
K
android94301 said:
Hi,
I just tested it with Smart Compass, and it seems to work. How many people use a compass app anyway? Don't most use GPS, which isn't affected by the small magnets.
In terms of NFC, I haven't tried NFC, so I don't know. But other's who've used the same system don't have problems with NFC. You could always mount the coil lower, so it wasn't near the NFC chip.
I don't understand the question about the phone needing to stay on the Touchstone. How is that different from the phone needing to be plugged in while charging? The major advantage of this mod is that a) it's way cheap and way cool, and b) you won't wear out the micro usb port plugging in and out. Also, I find it much more convenient to just lay my phone down on the charger whenever I am not using it, so it's always fully charged.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Last time i checked the 'magnets' in the palm pixi cover are not magnets but small pieces of metal. The magnets are in the pixi charging pad. I did this mod a long time ago and just used some really really small wires to complete the connection, i have been meaning to buy the copper tape but, lazy.
Nice mod!! If you could post a vid of a tutorial that would be sweet!??? I have always been the type to learn the best by watching it in action... Great job though!!:good:
TheMorlince said:
Last time i checked the 'magnets' in the palm pixi cover are not magnets but small pieces of metal. The magnets are in the pixi charging pad. I did this mod a long time ago and just used some really really small wires to complete the connection, i have been meaning to buy the copper tape but, lazy.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, they are small and thin neodymium magnets. What phone did you do it on "a long time ago"?
Ordered
Just ordered the parts. Touchstones for $3.50 and back covers for $3. Makes me sad though to see how Palm has fallen. My wife had a Pre Plus and touchstone and we both loved that phone. Probably would have bought a Pre 3 if they had ever come to market. Got 2 touchstones so I can have one at work. I will most likely epoxy the components to the battery cover since new battery covers are like $5. Should hold up better than Scotch tape over time.
Will report back when I get it all working.
nsmal24 said:
Just ordered the parts. Touchstones for $3.50 and back covers for $3. Makes me sad though to see how Palm has fallen. My wife had a Pre Plus and touchstone and we both loved that phone. Probably would have bought a Pre 3 if they had ever come to market. Got 2 touchstones so I can have one at work. I will most likely epoxy the components to the battery cover since new battery covers are like $5. Should hold up better than Scotch tape over time.
Will report back when I get it all working.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's a good idea, maybe I will have two covers, one with wireless charging for most of the time, and maybe one plain one for travel, etc.You might want to play around with it a little first, using scotch tape, check out NFC, etc, before you commit to gluing it all down.
Can you post a video that would be really cool
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
F***ing brilliant
For those looking to glue & not use tape just use silicon as it is easy to remove with no damage if needed but more stout than tape
This is awesome, thanks! The cover fits after gluing all that extra stuff without a problem, right? And how fast is the wireless charging?
Hello,
After changing the screen of my moto G, the new one is no longer stuck and is moving.... I had to remove the original glue (tape?) with an hair dryer.
My question is : with what I then paste the screen?
thanks a lot
Phil77560 said:
Hello,
After changing the screen of my moto G, the new one is no longer stuck and is moving.... I had to remove the original glue (tape?) with an hair dryer.
My question is : with what I then paste the screen?
thanks a lot
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is a very annoying problem of the chinese displays that come with a frame or pre-applied tape.
The display+lcd assembly is too heavy to be held by any normal 2-sided tape (3M 300LSE for example).
After hours of checking how the original thing was made it turned out that it has a rubber-like gasket that is glued to the frame, which acts as bonding surface for the 2nd glue used to hold the digitizer to the frame.
These are all my own findings, sadly no pne is discussing this problem anywhere or at least I didn't find any.
I've used a transparent epoxy (65-70% resin ~30-35% oxidizer so the compound hardens slower).Use a wooden tooth pick to apply the glue on the frame, don't put to much of it, just a hair-thin line.
Put the screen on and press it well and be ready to clean off any glue that may come out of the edges. The epoxy is easy to clean until it's set, use isopropyl alcohol 99% or some dry contact cleaner with a cotton cloth or kitchen paper.
The drawback of using epoxy is once it's set, you won't be able to remove the screen from the frame by any viable means.This is not a problem tho, since you can buy the whole assembly, should you need to replace the screen again.
Good luck.
:good:
Thanks a lot for your tip.
I'm gonna look for epoxy and try to do as well as you
Thank a lot once more
same issue
Hi,
Thank you very much for having shared your experience with us .
I have exactly the same issue with my Moto G and I've finally found a way out thanks to you. I would try this but I'm afraid of doing it bad. Should I apply the glue exactly in the border of the display? Do you happen to have any video showing it in detail?
Have a nice day
birikif said:
Hi,
Thank you very much for having shared your experience with us .
I have exactly the same issue with my Moto G and I've finally found a way out thanks to you. I would try this but I'm afraid of doing it bad. Should I apply the glue exactly in the border of the display? Do you happen to have any video showing it in detail?
Have a nice day
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello,
You should apply the glue in the frame, as close as possible to the outer rim and spread it as much as possible on the thin inner lining where the plastic of the frame and the glass make contact.
You can also use universal transparent glue, like JIP or Henkel... etc.These glues are a bit more liquidish and it takes more time to set properly, but they are also more flexible and you can also remove the display with heat, should you have the need to .
Sorry no videos available on this, but with a little effort and reading you'll be fine.
liveroy's advice is great. I've followed it with success, although the screen I bought has the dreaded phantom touch issue (cheap ebay job!) and will have to go back (this issue was apparent even before I glued it to the mid-frame).
Firstly I separated the screen from the mid-frame with two small suction cups, designed for removing halogen light bulbs, on the top and bottom of the glass. This worked well, but I had to use very gentle tugs to ensure I didn't tear the ribbon cable. Because the double-sided tape used was already separating, this was quite an easy part of the job.
I used Araldite 2-Tubes Standard Epoxy, because it has a very long cure time, which allowed me to work slowly. With the screen and mid-frame completely separate and cleaned up, I then threaded the screen's ribbon cable through the hole before glueing. The trickiest bit was putting the epoxy along the frame where the ribbon cable is; to do this I just wedged some folded paper between frame and screen while I layed down the epoxy. I guess I could have just done this bit first and avoided the need for a paper wedge (this was used to prevent prematurely sticking the screen to the frame before all the epoxy's down).
I used the screen's plastic film to protect the screen from the epoxy, and cleaned the excess epoxy with an old bottle of disk head cleaner I found lying about (smelt very alcoholly!) and cotton buds. I used some clothes pegs to clamp the screen to the frame, but I took them off after a few hours. Then I left it for a couple of days. The result was as good as I could have hoped for. I can see a little bit of the dried epoxy in the very narrow trenches between the mid-frame and glass, but this doesn't bother me. Way better than having light streaming through the sides, and it seems like a really solid grip! When in use and getting warm I could still see a bit of lift at the sides, but because it was glued there was absolutely no gap.
Going back to the original need for this fix -
On my phone I believe this is due to a warped, concave logic board, effectively peeling the glass away from the mid-frame when fitted. If it were totally flat then I doubt this would happen. I guess the aftermarket screen manufacturers didn't factor this in when they decided to use "weak" double-sided tape. I've also noticed that, with the new screen in place, the outer back shell of the phone, that you put on last, doesn't quite fit at the bottom like with the old screen - there is now a small a gap where the inner plastic housing is exposed. I think this is because the new mid-frame is straighter than the old, and the old shell has itself bent over time.
Hi,
I'm happy to found this thread. It's the second screen i replace on my Motorola Moto G4 Plus because of this; you can view my comment here : https://www.witrigs.com/oem-lcd-screen-assembly-for-motorola-moto-g4-plus-black#customer-reviews
I will try to use super glue on the top of my screen, hope it'll work. EDIT 20190122 : it worked (be careful to not add too much glue like i did : it was covering camera when pressing !)
Thanks
The other thread seems be more about non-flip cases.
Has anybody succeeded in finding a flip case that uses the hall sensor. I am talking about cases that typically have a small round magnet somewhere that activate the hall sensor. This turns on and turns off the display automatically (on flip open/close).
I bought one off amazon: https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B074M9RHZV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The case is OK. But, it does not trigger the hall sensor.
I tried taking a small magnet near the phone, around the bezel. No reaction from the phone. How is the hall sensor on this phone supposed to work ? Asus phones dont need any special activation for this. Samsung needed their special cover that has a chip (galaxy S5). Is something else needed to turn on the hall sensor ?
I emailed HMD global support and got the following link: https://www.nokia.com/en_in/phones/nokia-slim-flip-cover?selectedDevice=
A flip case is listed here for Nokia 5. Has anyone tried it/has any experience with this ?
Thanks.
Answering my own question. I could not find out an accessory that supports the hall sensor. But, did manage to find out where the hall sensor is!
The hall sensor is somewhere near the middle of the screen. On your lock screen, it is around the place that displaces the day of the week (Monday, etc). Strange place to have a hall sensor. But it works! Just try taking a magnet near this spot.
I guess, now I have to find a flat sticky magnet to stick on my flip cover
So, did you found some nice magnet? I have original Nokia slim flip case which doesnt have the magnet, i tried what you said and it works with normal magnet, but it it is too thick. It doesnt work with fridger stickers.
I also have slim neomdyum magnet, but i am affraid to try it.
AIPHEE said:
So, did you found some nice magnet? I have original Nokia slim flip case which doesnt have the magnet, i tried what you said and it works with normal magnet, but it it is too thick. It doesnt work with fridger stickers.
I also have slim neomdyum magnet, but i am affraid to try it.
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I think the neomdymium magnet should be OK. I know that my previous asus's filp cover had a small (1/2 to 3/4 cm dia) neomdymium magnet. I would be more worried about the magnet hitting the screen when you close (not the power of the magnet itself). I also checked that a simple stick-on magnetic strip does _not_ work.
I made it work nicely! found a great thin magnet in notebook HDD, which o broke in half (about .2cm long and wide now) and then inserted it with ducktape in top of card pocket. Working flawlessly!
Edit: Just compass seems messed when magnet is near.
Ah, I was expecting it to be near the edge somewhere. I'll give this a go as I have a cheap flip case on mine. Does the magnet need to be quite strong? I have some sticky sheet magnets, so I'll maybe try one of them and see what happens.
Magnetic Tape - rather those which can be used to hang metallic tools on a wall than audiotape!! - works also perfectly: no worries about scratching the screen. Can easily be cut to proper size and maybe inserted seamlessly into any flip cover. Search for "magnetic tape roll"