TripodTools PhotoStripes
Photos, block by block
PhotoStripes helps you to create images that represent a scenery stripe by stripe, with each stripe showing a different point in time. Between 4 and 8 such stripes can be selected, arranged horizontally or vertically within the final result, and stripe-to-stripe intervals can be set between 5 seconds and 5 minutes.
Find out more about this app and see various sample images at: www(dot)tripodtools(dot)com
The aim of the game to place the figures in the field of 10 to 10, so that the sum of the numbers on all elements of figures caught in a horizontal or vertical line was equal to 50.
****Summing elements may not lie in a row and take no horizontal or vertical whole.
****The data elements are removed from the field and increase your rating.
*****
****View the current sum of the digits in a particular horizontally and vertically by tapping their intersection.
****Over the field shows the shapes that you can use. The selected figure, before you put on the field, you can move, rotate, replaced by another, or to return back.
****Once you put a figure on the field, instead of it will be given next and your rating will decrease.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.gameclubsite.fiftyfree
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vXTBTE0AwsI
The purpose of the game figures placed on the 8 by 8, so that the sum of numbers in all figures of elements belonging to a single horizontal or vertical equals 40.
****Summing elements may not lie in a row and take no horizontal or vertical whole.
****The data elements are removed from the field and increase your rating.
****Over the field shows the shapes that you can use. The selected figure, before you put on the field, you can move, rotate, replaced by another, or to return back.
****Once you put a figure on the field, instead of it will be given next and your rating will decrease.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.gameclubsite.fortyfree
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0O5bmI9LxVE
Putting images by moving them apart.
****When moving part of the picture is flipped.
****Move only to the adjacent empty square.
****To move, touch the part you want, or use the arrows.
****The fewer moves you pictures assembly costs the higher your rating (each turn lowers rating of 1).
****For error checking, touch the small pictures (reducing the number of parts of the rating pictures).
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.gameclubsite.invertpuzzlefree
I have always had problem with this type of puzzle
There Invert puzzle 2 - there is going to be much easier.
Good job!
Hi. I have a problem with my S8+. U don't know if it is normal or not. Probably not (S7 photos were flawless, so S8 just can't be worse).
Take a look on this (same photo):
And
With autofocus set to upper left:
Left side is clearly blurred, right side is sharp as it should be.
PS shaking the phone with opened camera app does nothing.
I think you're asking if the periphery is out of focus?
Interesting question. Depth of field is the basic question, as I get it. What should be in focus, is based upon aperture (with correct speed: i.e. light). If I were trouble shooting an old camera, and checking the focus issue, I'd setup a field (stuff in the camera's focus range, at varying depths/distances from the camera), and take some photos in well lit conditions. It is important to know the 'depth of field' of a photo setting, so you can tell if the camera/lens and settings are all working as should be. The distance from the frontmost object, to the rear-most object still in focus, is called the 'depth of (the) field'
Check various distances/ranges from the objects, and see what comes out. If all is well there, I'd try different lighting variances, using the same distances as in step one.
Now, to test out the 'depth' portion of 'depth of field', you can set out a number of things, at varying distances, and given your 'depth of field' for your 'aperture', you should be able to see the things that are 'supposed' to be in the 'depth of field', all in focus. Remember, the smaller aperture, the smaller the hole that the light can pass through, the shorter, or less the 'depth of field', and the faster the shutter speed you can use (less light for a smaller hole). If you use a really large aperture, your camera will use a slower shutter/more light. If you go manual, which is a great way to learn how the camera 'depth of (the) field' works, you'll get a good understanding after a bit of time.
If the different distances and lighting comes out ok, both distance and lighting variances, I'd think you have a reasonable idea of the lens/camera portion is working correctly. The camera should take 'about' equally clear 'clarity', out to it's periphery.
If it's mux'ing up equally distanced (field of view) scenarios, I'd probably call Samsung. I advised well lit, so you can see what your are trying to investigate more clearly. using lighting variances would add to the 'evaluation' process, as that correlates more to a shutter speed.
You could go even further, by putting the camera into manual, and changing the aperture, test that out, and then the speed settings with varying arperture, testing that out . . .
but the basic 'auto' (auto aperture and auto speed) setting ought to work sufficient to get you the idea that yes, it is working/consistent/pretty clear at the periphery, or not. In very good cameras, with excellent lenses, the periphery is pretty spot on with the center of the lens, and that is with a great piece of glass. These cameras do a pretty good job, as well. Periphery is typically the more difficult ''depth of field'', as the lens, in some sense, is an approximation of your eye, with the higher definition in the center. Better lenses have a larger 'center' - some encompassing better to the periphery. Increasing the aperture increases the 'center' = greater 'depth', distance of the front most object that is in focus, to the objects behind a ways.
With the photos you posted up, it'd be necessary to know the aperture and speed being shot, to determine the depth of field (things that should be in focus based upon the aperture setting). Given the lighting, low/poor, a smaller aperture was likely used by the camera, with less/shorter depth of field.
Here is one example on how to calculate the 'field of view'.
http://shuttermuse.com/calculate-field-of-view-camera-lens/
There are hundreds of sites, but the calculation is basically about the same.
Also, if you could find someone near you with the same phone/camera, you could check their photos against yours, given the same parameters as above.
With your photos, above, if you were shooting (manual) with a hight speed, lets say, so less light coming into the lens, and small aperture, you'd have less 'depth of field', less things in focus. The larger the aperture, the more 'depth of field' you have. Speed needs to 'match', so you have the illumination good for the particular 'shot' you are wanting to accomplish. .So it's important to know the range, distance from the camera of the objects, to determining which ones 'should' be in focus, for the specific 'settings', i.e. aperture and speed (ISO) of film, or shutter speed, ASA..
I probably did not share this very eloquently, but I hope it gets across a few of the basic ideas?
Hope this helps.
@JeffDC -EDIT-
Are you trying to say that Galaxy S7 and S8 have different type of lens? I just tried to take a photo with autofocus set to left upper corner (landscape) and now the right side is blurred. IT never happened to me before in any phone or DSLR camera, but still, there is no such "effect" in S8 photos posted online, like https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/34287683905/in/album-72157682994456466/ - whole photo is sharp and clean.
EDIT 2, take a look on last photo in my first post. For me, there is definitely something wrong with my camera.
"Are you trying to say that Galaxy S7 and S8 have different type of lens? I just tried to take a photo with autofocus set to left upper corner (landscape) and now the right side is blurred. IT never happened to me before in any phone or DSLR camera, but still, there is no such "effect" in S8 photos posted online, like https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/34287683905/in/album-72157682994456466/ - whole photo is sharp and clean.
EDIT 2, take a look on last photo in my first post. For me, there is definitely something wrong with my camera."
I'm not saying anything about S7 or S8 differences. I was providing a method for you to test out your camera, no matter what type or from where.