Database Info

Green line of pixels down left hand side

I've noticed that on the very left hand side on the edge of the Captivate that there's a column of green pixels going down the whole screen. It looks to be about 1 pixel wide. For me it's most noticeable when you pull down the drop down menu.
I don't know if it's normal or what. I exchanged it at my AT&T store and got a new one, and the new phone also had that column of green pixels on the left hand side.
Any one else notice or have this problem? Is it normal?

I do not have this on mine...sounds like a good reason to take it back and get a replacement..

I took it back yesterday and got a replacement, but it still had that green line. While I was there I looked at all the other display models and every single one also had that problem.
Anyone else? Or is it just that certain AT&T store lol

I can only reproduce this effect with the drop down notification menu and nothing else. Try pulling the menu down on a black screen or by looking at the area where the notification bar and menu meet and you'll see that only the drop down is affected.

its norm, if you browse a completely white page in explorer you'll see it there too. If anyone is worried about it, its deff not noticeable and i have severe ocd issues.

This is normal of any Pentile display such as the one found on the Samsung Captivate. It is not an issue.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}

brilliant wish there was a +1 rep button on the forum

If you can actually notice the Pentile matrix, you have really good eyes

bwolmarans said:
brilliant wish there was a +1 rep button on the forum
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hahaha. +1!
But yeah, that's just how the led's are aligned in the display. Completely normal.

Here's some more information for those curious about Pentile Matrix's. This infomation predates the actual manufature of Pentile matrix's, and explains why it is used over a traditional grid matrix. Enjoy!
"This is a color subpixel-rendering system that promises to improve LCD resolution significantly, while reducing data driver requirements. The PenTile Matrix by ClairVoyante (Sebastopol, CA) doubles the addressable resolution in each axis and the modulation transfer function.
An LCD differs little in basic concept from a stained-glass window, modulating the light that shines through it to create a color image for the viewer. The need to generate a moving image, however, requires that the image elements be as small as possible, yet arrayed to blend subpixels in close proximity to properly represent colors.
In the PenTile Matrix, each color is surrounded by the other two colors, using a pattern of alternating red and green pixels to carry the logical pixel information. The blue pixels provide only low-resolution chroma information, matching human vision characteristics, while significantly reducing the number of data drivers. The light intensity is regulated by white subpixels (a recent innovation being explored by other display configurations and technologies as well).
Conventional color LCDs use three subpixels--red, green, and blue--in vertical stripes. A principal disadvantage of the arrangement is that it relies on the blue pixel to carry high-resolution luminance information--a difficult task because of limitations in human vision.
Subpixel font rendering on the RGB stripe is limited to increasing the addressability by a factor of 2, while the PenTile Matrix can double that number in both the horizontal and vertical axes for a fourfold improvement. Another advantage is that the arrangement is nearly rotationally symmetrical, allowing the display to be rotated more easily for portable devices and other displays that may be viewed from different orientations based on the information displayed.
There are currently no displays using this matrix available, but Samsung is working on some prototypes for possible release in 2005/6."
And now for the Wikipedia link to additional more recent information: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PenTile
And another link: http://www.displayblog.com/2009/04/16/samsung-oled-pentile-matrix-why-is-the-red-sub-pixel-so-big/

I've tried looking for this and really dont see it. I see what may look like one line of green pixels all the way on the left as you slide down the notification area. But I basically have to tilt the phone and look inside that area.

I see it. Its pretty damn small though lol.

The green line is only noticeable against brighter background when the green subpixel is being used to trick the eye into seeing white, etc. For example, my background is mostly darker colors, but where an area of white touches the edge of the screen, the green line appears; but only next to the brighter colors, not the darker ones. Kind of weird now that I look at it lol

This makes me feel a lot better that the screen is that way. I just wasn't sure if it was normal or not.
Thanks for clarifying!

jhannaman82 said:
This is normal of any Pentile display such as the one found on the Samsung Captivate. It is not an issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Funny, since reading this thread last night, I do now notice that one really thin green line running down the leftmost edge of the screen on certain occasions. Its got to be caused by the pentile matrix arrangement of pixels. That first entire left row is all green, thats whats doing it. Especially when you're on a black background like when you slide the notification area down.

Do you use ambient mode on your GS2 watch?

Do you use ambient mode on your GS2 watch?
AFAIK always on mode can cause unrecoverable damage to AMOLED pixels

kornelius1982 said:
AFAIK always on mode can cause unrecoverable damage to AMOLED pixels
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have a source for this? I don't think that is true.

GeorgeP said:
Do you have a source for this? I don't think that is true.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Source is my personal experience. I saw note 4 in Samsung showroom with actual burned-in pixels on screen.
You can google and see many similar issues.

kornelius1982 said:
Source is my personal experience. I saw note 4 in Samsung showroom with actual burned-in pixels on screen.
You can google and see many similar issues.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's why you don't use yourself as a source lol. Unlike the Note 4 and other Amoled devices, the Gear S2 is designed to slightly shift/redraw the pixels every minute when using ambient mode. This prevents the burn-in you mention.

kornelius1982 said:
Do you use ambient mode on your GS2 watch?
AFAIK always on mode can cause unrecoverable damage to AMOLED pixels
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This isn't an issue with the S2.
If you notice while your watch is in ambient mode, the watch face isn't always centered. It moves around slightly every minute or so. You'll really notice this on watchfaces that have intricate ambient modes. Samsung does this to make sure it doesn't "burn in". I see it on the CWF Aquarius, and Pavilion by Liongate.
Rob

As others have said, burn in isn't an issue. I only use it when the watch face has a very minimal ambient mode. If it has too much going on, I turn it off since it is too hard on the battery.

Burn in still happen even with pixel shift, which is very common on plasma TV and oled, just it need a very long time before it become quite obvious, quite sure most of us will get a new watch before that.

sefrcoko said:
That's why you don't use yourself as a source lol. Unlike the Note 4 and other Amoled devices, the Gear S2 is designed to slightly shift/redraw the pixels every minute when using ambient mode. This prevents the burn-in you mention.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I hope you`ve heard there are such things like third party watchfaces with their own, more complex ambient mode theme, not just stock stupid two hands.
I know, Samsung made simple, slightly shifting two hands, but even stock WF-s have ambient mode with constantly active pixels in the center.
See pics.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}

kornelius1982 said:
I hope you`ve heard there are such things like third party watchfaces with their own, more complex ambient mode theme, not just stock stupid two hands.
I know, Samsung made simple, slightly shifting two hands, but even stock WF-s have ambient mode with constantly active pixels in the center.
See pics.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pictures are static and wouldn't show pixel shifts so that doesn't mean much... More complex ambient mode face designs doesn't necessarily mean they wouldn't shift either if that function is applied system-wide at the tizen OS level. You also mistakenly assumed that only the hands shift...in reality the entire watch face shifts. One way or another, a documented source is more reliable than speculation or comparing to totally different devices like the Note 4.

kornelius1982 said:
I hope you`ve heard there are such things like third party watchfaces with their own, more complex ambient mode theme, not just stock stupid two hands.
I know, Samsung made simple, slightly shifting two hands, but even stock WF-s have ambient mode with constantly active pixels in the center.
See pics.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is why it is recommended to "dither" all block areas of an ambient watch face. It creates a grid of alternating on/off pixels, so if the image moves one pixel in any direction, ALL pixels that were on will turn off.
Otherwise it CAN reduce the lifetime of the individual subpixel color elements of the display (if you use only blue, only those will have shortened lifespan).

[Tips and Tutorial] How to fix screen burn-in s4 i9505 and others

[Tips and Tutorial] [MIUI Resources Team] How to fix screen burn-in on your Android smartphone
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Hello MIUIers,
Ghost image or screen/image burn-in are names given to a permanent discoloration of your smartphone’s screen caused by irregular pixel usage. The prolonged use of static images can create a permanent shadow or ghost of that image on the screen. This problem is more common than you think, and happens most often on AMOLED screens (although LCD displays aren’t completely free of this bug). Fortunately, there is a solution to restore the image quality of your device.
The screen ghost happens when phosphor compounds that emit light to produce images lose their intensity with prolonged use. Moreover, the irregular use can "burn" an image onto the screen which will be visible all the time. Many apps which are available in the Play Store promise to reduce or even stop the problem. One is the Screen Burn-in Tool.
The concept is simple: a sequence of primary colors is displayed on your device, restoring the "burnt" pixels. In fact, this was the original function of computer screen-savers: one dynamic image that appears when the screen is idle to makes the pixels "exercise" and ensure that the same area of display doesn’t remain constantly illuminated.
font: en.miui.com
Do it at your own risk!
Today I will teach you how to remove the famous burn.
White 80%
Blue 80%:
Green 90%:
Red 100%:
I can not guarantee it will work on other models, my cell phone had very strong shadows on the screen, I realize that almost everything has disappeared ... I'm still running the program, I'll keep you informed on this subject!
Yes, it works, although some report that this does not happen, but their effectiveness depends a lot on the severity of the recording.
If you have shadows from a keyboard or square or both you can remove everything or almost everything, I have the program running for a week at night, I restart the cell phone in the morning and normal use.
Download the Liquid Burn-in Wiper application and use one or four weeks at maximum brightness.
Restart the device once a day, you will have with some luck recovered 80% to 99% of the screen with shade or burn.
Mine at the moment recovered 80%.
Soon I will update the topic with new photos, please wait.
Update add apk:
LCD Burn in Wiper v6.1
OLED Tools v1.3

did you mean to post this here ?

3mel said:
did you mean to post this here ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the post is solely to help people who have burns on the screen and do not know what to do.

an admin must've moved your thread.

Is this the same app as LCD Burn-in Wiper 6.1 by AVAWorks on playstore?
◆Support Device
LCD device
※AMOLED and OLED devices are not supported.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not saying it doesn't work, but an app targeted at AMOLED screens should be your first port of call...

Buff99 said:
Is this the same app as LCD Burn-in Wiper 6.1 by AVAWorks on playstore?
Not saying it doesn't work, but an app targeted at AMOLED screens should be your first port of call...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you even repair the ones that say it is for OLED screen they use the basic color system (rgb) ... then any application that changes the default colors should work normal.
Yes, my friend, I do not know why they said no.
do the test yourself, let it run for a week and you will see the difference.
As soon as I finish the tests I will post new photos.

Doesnt it just burn the rest screen out to even it out?

McXred said:
Doesnt it just burn the rest screen out to even it out?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The rest screen is toprevent it from appearing.
You can use it, but it will take much longer, since we do not have a refresh of colors quickly and evenly.
If you want to contribute to the community, you can do some tests. :good:

droidfuture said:
The rest screen is toprevent it from appearing.
You can use it, but it will take much longer, since we do not have a refresh of colors quickly and evenly.
If you want to contribute to the community, you can do some tests. :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think what he meant was:
Does it work by burning the not-already burnt out parts to make it appear less burnt out?

I have Galaxy S5 that has pretty noticeable burn-in. When I view completely white image I can see bright white bars at the top and bottom of the screen, top bar even has few icons visible such as warning triangle at the left, i (info) and home at the right so apparently previous owner was using a lot of some kind of web browser at high brightness levels. Center of the screen is slightly dimmer and yellowish so I assume pixels have been burnt more there.
Now I have read about this AMOLED problem and as far as I know you indeed need to burn better pixels causing the ghost image to same level with the rest of the pixels to make ghost image disappear. I planned to try treating the lower ghost bar first and I already created black image same shape as the screen (but a little larger) having white bar at the bottom. I can view this image on my phone, zoom in and align the white bar to match the white bar of the ghost image while the rest of the screen is black. Then turn brightness all the way up and hope that pixels at the bottom of the screen wear out enough and ghost bar disappears. But I guess it'll take very long time. I'll try few hours per day for a week and see if it makes any difference compared to top ghost bar.
It's very difficult to align the image so that it's pixel perfect so there might be a chance that line or two of the brighter screen portion is covered by black area of the image. But I suppose having slightly brighter 1-2 pixel wide line across the screen is better than noticeably brighter large section of the screen.

I have been keeping the better pixels on at full brightness for total of 24 hours now and I can't see any difference. To me it seems that fixing amoled burn-in isn't a quick process but needs tens or hundreds of hours of screen burning to wear better pixels down to same level so that ghost image disappears. And that's pretty logical as burn-in itself doesn't occur overnight but during months of phone usage. Maybe I'll leave it as it is, my eyes have gotten somewhat used to it anyway. Not worth the trouble.

auto focus photo not sharp

hi everyone, since I have the note 20 ultra, I take pictures in automatic mode but I see that the focus is only on the central part and blur the sides. I then have to press on the screen and do the manual focus so that it makes the image sharp on the left or right side but then the other side is blurred. do you also have this problem?
if you look closely at the writings on the electrical panel on the left are blurry and the center is sharp. and in the second photo I put the focus on the writings on the left to make them clear
N986B @ Stock
https://nsa40.casimages.com/img/2020/10/23/201023090624299060.jpg
https://nsa40.casimages.com/img/2020/10/23/20102309072944981.jpg
Envoyé de mon SM-N986B en utilisant Tapatalk

Try taking pic from a distance. Large sensor isn't good for close up shots

There's a narrow focus plane with large camera sensors and the lens it has.
It will focus on a certain distance and everything before or after will blur, it's physics nothing can be done really.

I had the same experience and frustration in the very first days of usage. And thinking it could be a dirty glass [emoji848].
But all comments so far are right on, the (very narrow) depth of field of the Note 20 Ultra main camera is a direct result of its big sensor.
And a welcome side effect is the ”portrait nice background blur” that no other phone is currently achieving (without using the ”less good” software trick).
Unfortunately because it doesn't have an iris (like a lens in a real camera, or like Note 9 ”although a gimmick because only two steps”), you can't increase the aperture, to gain more depth of field (like we all do on a real camera ”no one takes landscape pictures using 2.0 or 2.8, but instead 8, or higher”).
So either you increase the distance (bad if you want a close up picture) or use the Telephoto camera (5x) and be limited to 12M pixel and and the need for more light.
Regards...
Sent from my SM-N9860 using Tapatalk

Just a thought, how about using Live Focus and adjusting what you want after you take the shot?

ok thank you i understand what you are saying. it is then a real problem because the photos in short plan are still not clear in the details. and it is not normal that such a phone at 1300 € cannot have close-up sharpness in auto mode and that you have to play with the settings to have it at the expense of one side of the photo. ditto here I do not know to have a clear picture on the whole. on this side I clearly regret my rating 10+
The M-Bus is clearly not legible ... it's a real big problem I doubt that the other high-end even if they have a wide angle sensor.
Envoyé de mon SM-N986B en utilisant Tapatalk

Samsung in decline ... [emoji36] I'm honestly not surprised to see the score on DX0MARK every nearby photo is still blurred on the background and it's really annoying ... I don't know if I'm going to continue with this phone. waiting for Android 11
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Envoyé de mon SM-N986B en utilisant Tapatalk

bismarc123 said:
A little trick. The volume up button on most camera apps will shoot an image. That is true of the Camera app on iPhone, and two other even more powerful paid iOS apps, ProCamera and Camera+. Perhaps other readers might advise on which camera apps can do this on Android.
So once you have tapped on the area you want to focus on, grip the camera with a finger on the volume up button, frame nicely and squ-e-e-ze.
You can also plug in headphones that have volume controls and press that volume up button to shoot while you hold your camera in the other hand.
Those techniques should cure the blur if it is due to shakiness as you press the on-screen shutter button. The other two critical elements are good lighting and a clean lens.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hi, thank you but on my note 10+ I did not have this problem, and it is clear not normal to have to install other camera applications to try to correct this, I hold my phone very clean and here I have in addition to the flash and lighting and a flashlight.
Envoyé de mon SM-N986B en utilisant Tapatalk

have you tried cleaning the back lens

RISHI RAJ said:
Try taking pic from a distance. Large sensor isn't good for close up shots
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Fast lense have short focal planes. You can't stop these cams down to an f/5.6-8.0 so....
Back up; a few inches (if a macro) or a few feet can make big difference.
This is simple optics not a defective cam.
You need to learn to see as the cam does and shoot accordingly.
All cameras and lens have limitations.
I've shot a lot with the Canon 50L f/1.2 wide open. Many complain about this lense but I've gotten superb grabs with it because I worked within it's limits and capitalize on it's strengths such as flare control and low light street shooting.

...

Usually a 2x suggestion will pop up on mine...if it does tap that and move back a little, it fixes my blurred edge problem. It's just the sensor itself is so big as stated previously. This took me a few days to get used to as well.

i dont have that issue

Question Camera trouble

{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
So can anybody help with this disaster?
Severely cropped to not nuke the servers.
The more distant classic sunset was fine, but then we got an amazing and huge red sun just before it set. The whole ball was the colour of the edge or the stripe in this shambles of a shot.
Other than turn off AI what else should I do?
I have to say my old Mate 40 RS Porsche Edition would have got the shot no problem. Very disappointed in my new S22 Ultra.
This is one of those possibly never see again chances, gutted.

This is due to Infra Red blooming. The sensors are very sensitive to IR, so there is an IR blocking filter in the system. Unfortunately, this does not block 100% of the IR on bright objects like the Sun. You can see this effect by taking a shot of a hot electric stove burner with the camera; you don't even have to take a picture to see the effect just look at the screen. I've attached a shot here, the stove was not a bright pink to the eye, that is due to IR leaking through the filter. Because IR has a longer wavelength than Red, the light is focused by the lens farther away, and it can cause a bloom around the Sun like that. Other cameras have the same problem, and it depends on the strength of the IR filter. There are disadvantages to making the IR filter stronger like color distortion in the other colors so it is always a compromise. There isn't much that can be done about it.
edit - I have to add that taking a picture of the low Sun like that is just about the worst case and you probably won't notice it anywhere else. When the Sun is low and most of the light is being blocked so you can actually stand to look at it (still not good to stare), almost all of the IR light is still getting through, and so the IR component is a lot more than usual. You can even get the same effect on a pro DSLR.

brachiopod said:
This is due to Infra Red blooming. The sensors are very sensitive to IR, so there is an IR blocking filter in the system. Unfortunately, this does not block 100% of the IR on bright objects like the Sun. You can see this effect by taking a shot of a hot electric stove burner with the camera; you don't even have to take a picture to see the effect just look at the screen. I've attached a shot here, the stove was not a bright pink to the eye, that is due to IR leaking through the filter. Because IR has a longer wavelength than Red, the light is focused by the lens farther away, and it can cause a bloom around the Sun like that. Other cameras have the same problem, and it depends on the strength of the IR filter. There are disadvantages to making the IR filter stronger like color distortion in the other colors so it is always a compromise. There isn't much that can be done about it.
edit - I have to add that taking a picture of the low Sun like that is just about the worst case and you probably won't notice it anywhere else. When the Sun is low and most of the light is being blocked so you can actually stand to look at it (still not good to stare), almost all of the IR light is still getting through, and so the IR component is a lot more than usual. You can even get the same effect on a pro DSLR.
View attachment 5573961
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Many thanks for the detailed reply. So turning off the AI assist stuff wouldn't have helped then. Anything in Pro mode or Expert Raw that could help?

stewarta13wsb said:
Many thanks for the detailed reply. So turning off the AI assist stuff wouldn't have helped then. Anything in Pro mode or Expert Raw that could help?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Probably not, since it is an optical effect. You might be able to 'shop it out. On a pro camera, you can use a very small aperture which brings the IR light more into focus, but that's not an option on the phone which has a fixed aperture. I've got a very similar shot from my old Note 20 U that had the same problem. Below is a cropped in shot from an Olympus mirrorless camera that shows the same Red ring thing, just to a smaller degree. It isn't helping that the "100x" zoom works by cropping the 10X image, it amplifies small defects like that.

stewarta13wsb said:
Many thanks for the detailed reply. So turning off the AI assist stuff wouldn't have helped then. Anything in Pro mode or Expert Raw that could help?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Only a stronger UV/IR cut filter would help.
I shoot IR/UV and full spectrum with a DSLR and RAW video cameras... Its a balance between visible light and correct look with most sensors.
Unless you use (physical) filters, nothing you can really do. Most cameras are very sensitive to IR light, and blocking IR/near IR completely wipes out a lot of deep reds and throws off colors as well. Sensors do not see at all like our eyes do.
Channel swapped 590nm IR shot attached.